The NAD T775/T785 AVRs w/ HDMI 1.3 Thread! - Page 150 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4471 of 4480 Old 06-10-2016, 12:09 PM
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madaudio,

I vacuum the fans occasionally and once a year, I take the AVR out, remove the top of the cabinet and use my air compressor to clean the system up. I do the same with my HTPC.

But even with all of that, NADs still have a heat problem in the module area. If you remove the top of the case, you'll see what I mean: the modules and their backplane have very little air circulation and there are parts on some of the modules that run quite warm. With no way to dissipate the heat, module life is reduced.

If you look at some of the modules, you will see a yellow-to-brown glue holding some of the parts to the PC Board. I've seen that glue used for that same purpose for many years when I was a bench tech. It typically gets a slightly darker yellow color with age but when exposed to high temperatures, it gets much darker and loses its flexibility. When the temperatures are very high, the glue not only gets very dark brown, it also becomes conductive to electricity and can even short out circuits.

When I replaced my DSP module, there was three areas on the board that had glue holding parts or jumper cables down. In one of those areas, the glue was only slightly darker and was still pliable. However, in the other two areas, the glue was dark and hard, signifying exposure to high temperatures. The further toward the front of the chassis (away from the rear of the cabinet), the darker the glue was. The area further forward of the module backplane gets very hot and has almost no cooling.

I would really like to figure out a way to cool the module area but without drilling holes or cutting slits in both the lid above, and the chassis below, that area, I don't see how.

Be seeing you!
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post #4472 of 4480 Old 06-13-2016, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cctvtech View Post
madaudio,

I vacuum the fans occasionally and once a year, I take the AVR out, remove the top of the cabinet and use my air compressor to clean the system up. I do the same with my HTPC.

But even with all of that, NADs still have a heat problem in the module area. If you remove the top of the case, you'll see what I mean: the modules and their backplane have very little air circulation and there are parts on some of the modules that run quite warm. With no way to dissipate the heat, module life is reduced.

If you look at some of the modules, you will see a yellow-to-brown glue holding some of the parts to the PC Board. I've seen that glue used for that same purpose for many years when I was a bench tech. It typically gets a slightly darker yellow color with age but when exposed to high temperatures, it gets much darker and loses its flexibility. When the temperatures are very high, the glue not only gets very dark brown, it also becomes conductive to electricity and can even short out circuits.

When I replaced my DSP module, there was three areas on the board that had glue holding parts or jumper cables down. In one of those areas, the glue was only slightly darker and was still pliable. However, in the other two areas, the glue was dark and hard, signifying exposure to high temperatures. The further toward the front of the chassis (away from the rear of the cabinet), the darker the glue was. The area further forward of the module backplane gets very hot and has almost no cooling.

I would really like to figure out a way to cool the module area but without drilling holes or cutting slits in both the lid above, and the chassis below, that area, I don't see how.
That's a shame on the design as historically NAD products had been pretty bullet proof in terms of design. You would think heat dissipation issues would be a key design point for a device like this that is intended to often run for several hours at a time.
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post #4473 of 4480 Old 06-13-2016, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCCaniac View Post
That's a shame on the design as historically NAD products had been pretty bullet proof in terms of design. You would think heat dissipation issues would be a key design point for a device like this that is intended to often run for several hours at a time.
Yeah, with 5 cooling fans, it's obvious they gave some attention to cooling but those fans only cool the power amplifier circuitry. Left with little-to-no cooling are the power supplies and especially the modules.

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post #4474 of 4480 Old 06-15-2016, 08:21 AM
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Yeah, with 5 cooling fans, it's obvious they gave some attention to cooling but those fans only cool the power amplifier circuitry. Left with little-to-no cooling are the power supplies and especially the modules.
I am thinking of buying something like this to put into the cabinet above the NAD. Not sure whether I should put it near the front so that it blows over the top of the NAD, or put it at the back so that it is sucking out the hot air and blowing it out the back of the cabinet. Also considered cutting holes through the side of the cabinet for it to suck the hot air up and blow it out the side of the cabinet.

http://www.avaustralia.com.au/cool-c...mm-fan-system/
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post #4475 of 4480 Old 06-16-2016, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madaudio View Post
I am thinking of buying something like this to put into the cabinet above the NAD. Not sure whether I should put it near the front so that it blows over the top of the NAD, or put it at the back so that it is sucking out the hot air and blowing it out the back of the cabinet. Also considered cutting holes through the side of the cabinet for it to suck the hot air up and blow it out the side of the cabinet.

http://www.avaustralia.com.au/cool-c...mm-fan-system/
It never hurts to keep the environment around heat-generating electronics cool but adding cabinet cooling will have little effect on the module area. It just has no way of eliminating heat buildup due to how enclosed the entire area is. I have been mulling over ways to remove heat from that area and so far, have come up with nothing that wouldn't require major surgery and/or hurting esthetics.


Ideally, I would cut additional slits in the top of the NAD's cabinet above the modules and perhaps install a cooling fan somewhere else to force air through the module area. Practically, I see no simple way to accomplish that.

Be seeing you!
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post #4476 of 4480 Old 06-17-2016, 12:18 AM
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.........

Ideally, I would cut additional slits in the top of the NAD's cabinet above the modules and perhaps install a cooling fan somewhere else to force air through the module area. Practically, I see no simple way to accomplish that.
I have found keeping the cabinet door open with a floor fan pointed towards it works, even on a hot day, so am hoping that internal exhaust fans would work enough to keep the heat below any critical level
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post #4477 of 4480 Old 06-22-2016, 07:06 PM
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Does anyone have an update from NAD about their updated MDC module with HDMI 2.0 with 4K support?
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post #4478 of 4480 Old 06-22-2016, 10:50 PM
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My local dealer in Switzerland told me such module (hdmi 2.0 - 4k) will be available in August 2016.
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post #4479 of 4480 Old 06-24-2016, 04:00 PM
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I asked NAD that question a few weeks ago and they responded:

"Please be advised that the latest information is that the 4K cards will be available in August with the ATMOS cards to follow in September. There was additional engineering required as the HDMI 2.0a and 2.0b specs were recently introduced. We also have some interesting options coming for those 4k cards that took additional time to get right."

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Does anyone have an update from NAD about their updated MDC module with HDMI 2.0 with 4K support?

Lubarsky's Law of Cybernetic Entomology: There's always one more bug.
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post #4480 of 4480 Old Today, 08:34 PM
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Been trying to create a virtual remote for my NAD T775 HD to use instead of the NAD HTR 3 (or as a fall-back when batteries go) on my Samsung Galaxy Note Pro.
Had built up a working model using the the Galaxy Universal Remote app. They upgraded their app, now the selection for Input 1 (HDMI 1) won't work.
Been in email contact with developer (Moletag) and they are trying, and very good at replying to emails, but no fix yet.

Can operate almost every other aspect of my T775 HD from this app (inputs from HDMI 2, 3, and 4, and 7.1 analogue inputs, Tuner, can get into and navigate through set-up menu.

But need the hex code IR for HDMI 1: anyone??? (have tried the NAD site, no luck there. Also should state am in the "Land Down Under" so visiting US dealers not an option. Have not actually tried local dealers or authorised repair agents yet.)
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