The NAD T775/T785 AVRs w/ HDMI 1.3 Thread! - Page 150 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #4471 of 4495 Old 06-10-2016, 01:09 PM
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madaudio,

I vacuum the fans occasionally and once a year, I take the AVR out, remove the top of the cabinet and use my air compressor to clean the system up. I do the same with my HTPC.

But even with all of that, NADs still have a heat problem in the module area. If you remove the top of the case, you'll see what I mean: the modules and their backplane have very little air circulation and there are parts on some of the modules that run quite warm. With no way to dissipate the heat, module life is reduced.

If you look at some of the modules, you will see a yellow-to-brown glue holding some of the parts to the PC Board. I've seen that glue used for that same purpose for many years when I was a bench tech. It typically gets a slightly darker yellow color with age but when exposed to high temperatures, it gets much darker and loses its flexibility. When the temperatures are very high, the glue not only gets very dark brown, it also becomes conductive to electricity and can even short out circuits.

When I replaced my DSP module, there was three areas on the board that had glue holding parts or jumper cables down. In one of those areas, the glue was only slightly darker and was still pliable. However, in the other two areas, the glue was dark and hard, signifying exposure to high temperatures. The further toward the front of the chassis (away from the rear of the cabinet), the darker the glue was. The area further forward of the module backplane gets very hot and has almost no cooling.

I would really like to figure out a way to cool the module area but without drilling holes or cutting slits in both the lid above, and the chassis below, that area, I don't see how.

Be seeing you!
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post #4472 of 4495 Old 06-13-2016, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cctvtech View Post
madaudio,

I vacuum the fans occasionally and once a year, I take the AVR out, remove the top of the cabinet and use my air compressor to clean the system up. I do the same with my HTPC.

But even with all of that, NADs still have a heat problem in the module area. If you remove the top of the case, you'll see what I mean: the modules and their backplane have very little air circulation and there are parts on some of the modules that run quite warm. With no way to dissipate the heat, module life is reduced.

If you look at some of the modules, you will see a yellow-to-brown glue holding some of the parts to the PC Board. I've seen that glue used for that same purpose for many years when I was a bench tech. It typically gets a slightly darker yellow color with age but when exposed to high temperatures, it gets much darker and loses its flexibility. When the temperatures are very high, the glue not only gets very dark brown, it also becomes conductive to electricity and can even short out circuits.

When I replaced my DSP module, there was three areas on the board that had glue holding parts or jumper cables down. In one of those areas, the glue was only slightly darker and was still pliable. However, in the other two areas, the glue was dark and hard, signifying exposure to high temperatures. The further toward the front of the chassis (away from the rear of the cabinet), the darker the glue was. The area further forward of the module backplane gets very hot and has almost no cooling.

I would really like to figure out a way to cool the module area but without drilling holes or cutting slits in both the lid above, and the chassis below, that area, I don't see how.
That's a shame on the design as historically NAD products had been pretty bullet proof in terms of design. You would think heat dissipation issues would be a key design point for a device like this that is intended to often run for several hours at a time.
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post #4473 of 4495 Old 06-13-2016, 12:54 PM
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That's a shame on the design as historically NAD products had been pretty bullet proof in terms of design. You would think heat dissipation issues would be a key design point for a device like this that is intended to often run for several hours at a time.
Yeah, with 5 cooling fans, it's obvious they gave some attention to cooling but those fans only cool the power amplifier circuitry. Left with little-to-no cooling are the power supplies and especially the modules.

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post #4474 of 4495 Old 06-15-2016, 09:21 AM
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Yeah, with 5 cooling fans, it's obvious they gave some attention to cooling but those fans only cool the power amplifier circuitry. Left with little-to-no cooling are the power supplies and especially the modules.
I am thinking of buying something like this to put into the cabinet above the NAD. Not sure whether I should put it near the front so that it blows over the top of the NAD, or put it at the back so that it is sucking out the hot air and blowing it out the back of the cabinet. Also considered cutting holes through the side of the cabinet for it to suck the hot air up and blow it out the side of the cabinet.

http://www.avaustralia.com.au/cool-c...mm-fan-system/
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post #4475 of 4495 Old 06-16-2016, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by madaudio View Post
I am thinking of buying something like this to put into the cabinet above the NAD. Not sure whether I should put it near the front so that it blows over the top of the NAD, or put it at the back so that it is sucking out the hot air and blowing it out the back of the cabinet. Also considered cutting holes through the side of the cabinet for it to suck the hot air up and blow it out the side of the cabinet.

http://www.avaustralia.com.au/cool-c...mm-fan-system/
It never hurts to keep the environment around heat-generating electronics cool but adding cabinet cooling will have little effect on the module area. It just has no way of eliminating heat buildup due to how enclosed the entire area is. I have been mulling over ways to remove heat from that area and so far, have come up with nothing that wouldn't require major surgery and/or hurting esthetics.


Ideally, I would cut additional slits in the top of the NAD's cabinet above the modules and perhaps install a cooling fan somewhere else to force air through the module area. Practically, I see no simple way to accomplish that.

Be seeing you!
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post #4476 of 4495 Old 06-17-2016, 01:18 AM
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.........

Ideally, I would cut additional slits in the top of the NAD's cabinet above the modules and perhaps install a cooling fan somewhere else to force air through the module area. Practically, I see no simple way to accomplish that.
I have found keeping the cabinet door open with a floor fan pointed towards it works, even on a hot day, so am hoping that internal exhaust fans would work enough to keep the heat below any critical level
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post #4477 of 4495 Old 06-22-2016, 08:06 PM
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Does anyone have an update from NAD about their updated MDC module with HDMI 2.0 with 4K support?
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post #4478 of 4495 Old 06-22-2016, 11:50 PM
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My local dealer in Switzerland told me such module (hdmi 2.0 - 4k) will be available in August 2016.
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post #4479 of 4495 Old 06-24-2016, 05:00 PM
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I asked NAD that question a few weeks ago and they responded:

"Please be advised that the latest information is that the 4K cards will be available in August with the ATMOS cards to follow in September. There was additional engineering required as the HDMI 2.0a and 2.0b specs were recently introduced. We also have some interesting options coming for those 4k cards that took additional time to get right."

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Does anyone have an update from NAD about their updated MDC module with HDMI 2.0 with 4K support?

Lubarsky's Law of Cybernetic Entomology: There's always one more bug.
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post #4480 of 4495 Old 07-23-2016, 09:34 PM
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Been trying to create a virtual remote for my NAD T775 HD to use instead of the NAD HTR 3 (or as a fall-back when batteries go) on my Samsung Galaxy Note Pro.
Had built up a working model using the the Galaxy Universal Remote app. They upgraded their app, now the selection for Input 1 (HDMI 1) won't work.
Been in email contact with developer (Moletag) and they are trying, and very good at replying to emails, but no fix yet.

Can operate almost every other aspect of my T775 HD from this app (inputs from HDMI 2, 3, and 4, and 7.1 analogue inputs, Tuner, can get into and navigate through set-up menu.

But need the hex code IR for HDMI 1: anyone??? (have tried the NAD site, no luck there. Also should state am in the "Land Down Under" so visiting US dealers not an option. Have not actually tried local dealers or authorised repair agents yet.)
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post #4481 of 4495 Old 07-24-2016, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madaudio View Post
Been trying to create a virtual remote for my NAD T775 HD to use instead of the NAD HTR 3 (or as a fall-back when batteries go) on my Samsung Galaxy Note Pro.
Had built up a working model using the the Galaxy Universal Remote app. They upgraded their app, now the selection for Input 1 (HDMI 1) won't work.
Been in email contact with developer (Moletag) and they are trying, and very good at replying to emails, but no fix yet.

Can operate almost every other aspect of my T775 HD from this app (inputs from HDMI 2, 3, and 4, and 7.1 analogue inputs, Tuner, can get into and navigate through set-up menu.

But need the hex code IR for HDMI 1: anyone??? (have tried the NAD site, no luck there. Also should state am in the "Land Down Under" so visiting US dealers not an option. Have not actually tried local dealers or authorised repair agents yet.)
Look on the T775 page on the NAD site. They have a zip file in the downloads section with the RS232 and IR codes.

Lubarsky's Law of Cybernetic Entomology: There's always one more bug.
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post #4482 of 4495 Old 07-29-2016, 10:21 PM
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Look on the T775 page on the NAD site. They have a zip file in the downloads section with the RS232 and IR codes.
Thanks for that. Downloaded that file, emailed it to Moletag. After one false try, they sent me back a code set to paste into their app - Bingo! Just about everything covered for the T775 HD on my tablet now!

If I'm feeling pushy, I might ask Moletag if they can work a code to duplicate the "Surr Mode" button on the NAD HTR3 to toggle between the different surround sound modes. Don't use it all that often, do occassionally use the Enhanced Stereo mode for full immersive sound (brings in the Centre and Surrounds plus the Sub - with Enhanced Bass turned on) when I am using the HDMI connection from my Oppo 95, instead of the Analogue outs.
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post #4483 of 4495 Old 08-30-2016, 02:48 AM
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If anyone is still holding out with their old NAD receivers/pre-pros there are some good news, the next batch of MDC are on their way according to this leaked info:



It is quite nice knowing I can bring up my now 7 year old NAD T775 to the latest spec. Unfortunately it will come at the cost of a new receiver and you will have the risk of having something else inside blow up due to old age.

NAD did keep their promise that the modular design would make things future proof.

My HT build: Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room

Marantz | NAD | Monitor Audio | SVS | Pioneer
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post #4484 of 4495 Old 08-30-2016, 06:23 AM
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Does anyone know if the "bi-amp" feature in the T785 (using back L+R outputs) actually improves the sound? Most experts state that Bi-amping within the same amp doesn't improve anything. Should I stick with Bi-wiring or be bold and try the Bi-amp feature?


BR Jim
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post #4485 of 4495 Old 08-30-2016, 07:57 AM
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Does anyone know if the "bi-amp" feature in the T785 (using back L+R outputs) actually improves the sound? Most experts state that Bi-amping within the same amp doesn't improve anything. Should I stick with Bi-wiring or be bold and try the Bi-amp feature?


BR Jim
Bi-amping won't do anything unless you have an active crossover in front of the amplifier which you won't in this case. Even then the sound improvement is so minute that most people don't bother with it.

My HT build: Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room

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post #4486 of 4495 Old 09-01-2016, 11:51 AM
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Bi-amping won't do anything unless you have an active crossover in front of the amplifier which you won't in this case. Even then the sound improvement is so minute that most people don't bother with it.
Much obliged for the fast answer I'll keep them bi-wired for now.

BR Jim
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post #4487 of 4495 Old 09-01-2016, 02:25 PM
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Much obliged for the fast answer I'll keep them bi-wired for now.

BR Jim
If you already have the cable why not, however that doesn't actually do any difference either.

My HT build: Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room

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post #4488 of 4495 Old 10-05-2016, 03:01 PM
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If anyone is still holding out with their old NAD receivers/pre-pros there are some good news, the next batch of MDC are on their way according to this leaked info:



It is quite nice knowing I can bring up my now 7 year old NAD T775 to the latest spec. Unfortunately it will come at the cost of a new receiver and you will have the risk of having something else inside blow up due to old age.

NAD did keep their promise that the modular design would make things future proof.
Sheesh. $1300 retail to bring up an old T775 to handle 4k and Atmos. It's a bit of a shame.

But then again, I haven't listened to anything else recently. Just can't imagine anything from Japan would be as sweet sounding as the NAD. Is there anything else out there for us who enjoy the NAD sound?
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post #4489 of 4495 Old 10-05-2016, 03:24 PM
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Sheesh. $1300 retail to bring up an old T775 to handle 4k and Atmos. It's a bit of a shame.

But then again, I haven't listened to anything else recently. Just can't imagine anything from Japan would be as sweet sounding as the NAD. Is there anything else out there for us who enjoy the NAD sound?
Well I'm using a Marantz SR7010 as a pre-pro and the T775 is used as a multichannel amp, best of both worlds.

My HT build: Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room

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post #4490 of 4495 Old 10-10-2016, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
If anyone is still holding out with their old NAD receivers/pre-pros there are some good news, the next batch of MDC are on their way according to this leaked info:



It is quite nice knowing I can bring up my now 7 year old NAD T775 to the latest spec. Unfortunately it will come at the cost of a new receiver and you will have the risk of having something else inside blow up due to old age.

NAD did keep their promise that the modular design would make things future proof.
LOL, I can still see the blacked out Dealer Costs.
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post #4491 of 4495 Old 10-13-2016, 08:59 AM
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These are still not out! Also wondering for room correction, are we still stuck with MultEQ XT or will there be a newer version. I wish Dirac was available.
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post #4492 of 4495 Old 11-10-2016, 04:20 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by bommai

Typically I use Dolby pro logic IIx for dd. I use ears only for 2 channel (sometimes). Are you in a 5.1 configuration? I have 7.1. I like the fact all 5.1 an be expanded to 7.1 including truehd and dts hd ma.


I am in 5.1 configuration. For 5.1 inputs (I connected my cablebox through HDMI), I can only select two options for Listening Mode (Direct and Stereo Downmix).
Did you ever figure it out? I have a T758 and play music through spotify on my playstation 4. The only two options are direct and studio downmix. Direct just uses two channels. I would like to use EARS, enhanced studio, etc. Scratching my head!

When I play a CD through my Philips CD player (connected via optical), I have all the options available to me. So, something about the PS4's configuration, the HDMI, etc... not sure. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #4493 of 4495 Old 11-10-2016, 05:30 PM
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I have the T775 and it can expand 5.1 to 7.1. However, I don't know if the 758 can or not. Check to see what kind of signal the PS4 is sending through hdmi to the receiver. Is it two channel or 5/7 channel with all the other channels muted. If it is latter then that is your problem.

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Quote:
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Quote: Originally Posted by bommai

Typically I use Dolby pro logic IIx for dd. I use ears only for 2 channel (sometimes). Are you in a 5.1 configuration? I have 7.1. I like the fact all 5.1 an be expanded to 7.1 including truehd and dts hd ma.


I am in 5.1 configuration. For 5.1 inputs (I connected my cablebox through HDMI), I can only select two options for Listening Mode (Direct and Stereo Downmix).
Did you ever figure it out? I have a T758 and play music through spotify on my playstation 4. The only two options are direct and studio downmix. Direct just uses two channels. I would like to use EARS, enhanced studio, etc. Scratching my head!

When I play a CD through my Philips CD player (connected via optical), I have all the options available to me. So, something about the PS4's configuration, the HDMI, etc... not sure. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #4494 of 4495 Old Today, 10:24 AM
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Does anyone know if the "bi-amp" feature in the T785 (using back L+R outputs) actually improves the sound? Most experts state that Bi-amping within the same amp doesn't improve anything. Should I stick with Bi-wiring or be bold and try the Bi-amp feature?
BR Jim
I have experimented heavily with bi-amping on my T775 on my former speakers (with serious impedance issues) and on my current set of less current demanding Triangle speakers and the verdict is unanimous: The sound improves drastically and especially in detail and dynamics. In fact I was extremely disappointed when I first turned on the T775 after having lost my M-series amps. But bi-amping helped a lot!

The prerequisite being that your speakers are truly split in the crossovers. Otherwise you will get into trouble.

As you run the speakers bi-amped now, no doubt you will notice the degradation in sound if you try to run them only with Front L & R.
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post #4495 of 4495 Old Today, 11:21 AM
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I have experimented heavily with bi-amping on my T775 on my former speakers (with serious impedance issues) and on my current set of less current demanding Triangle speakers and the verdict is unanimous: The sound improves drastically and especially in detail and dynamics. In fact I was extremely disappointed when I first turned on the T775 after having lost my M-series amps. But bi-amping helped a lot!

The prerequisite being that your speakers are truly split in the crossovers. Otherwise you will get into trouble.

As you run the speakers bi-amped now, no doubt you will notice the degradation in sound if you try to run them only with Front L & R.
Hi and thanks for your reply.

I actually run them bi-wired at the moment, and was wondering if the bi-amping (using back l+r) would be better?

BR Jim
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