The "Official" Denon AVR-2808CI Owners Thread - Page 101 - AVS Forum
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post #3001 of 3822 Old 12-07-2009, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

As SOM suggested, as you only have inexpensive HTIB speakers, I'd skip the 988 and go with a 1910 ($400). The upgrade to the 988 won't be worth the extra expense.

That's just it. I have already planned on beginning the speaker replacement process as soon as I decide on which ones. It is not that I planned on AVR upgrade first; it is because someone offered me 988 in excellent condition for $400. Would the 1910 have just as good SQ as 988 with sufficient power? And when I do upgrade speakers, which of these receivers would be best for my particular room layout?
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post #3002 of 3822 Old 12-07-2009, 05:55 PM
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The 1910 is not in the same league as the 988, however, does offer the Audyssey Dyn EQ (low volume) and Dyn VOL (limits highs) which the 988 does not have, although if you don't feel you need these, then stick with the 988. Audyssey will handle the room layout, the MULTEQ XT (988) doing a much better job of it. What kind of speaker upgrade you talking about? $500 total? $1000 total? $1500 total?

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post #3003 of 3822 Old 12-07-2009, 06:04 PM
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I was thinking somewhere around $1,000 but maybe more. I will probably not buy all at once. What speakers would you suggest to get most out of 988?

Thanks,
Steve
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post #3004 of 3822 Old 12-07-2009, 06:21 PM
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That's more a personal preference. Spend some time trolling the speaker threads to get a better idea of what you might prefer. Then go to an audio shop (e.g. Magnolia) and test demo various brands until you hear something you like. Most likely they will do well with the 988.

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post #3005 of 3822 Old 12-07-2009, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oedius View Post

How noticable is the difference to you between the 2809 and 988?

The only difference in SQ is DynEQ/Vol. DynEQ is increasingly noticable the further down from 0 you go. 0 is pretty darn loud, and is calibrated for your speakers and distance so it is 75 dB at pos #1. So after upgrading I enjoy much content at -20 (or less) with full fidelity which is quite significant for me, as it doesn't bother others and it saves my hearing. For action movies and some music listening I do crank it up and then DynEQ adds nothing. DynVol comes in handy sometimes but does not add SQ, it actually reduces dynamic range. AFAIK currently you are not getting Audyssey correction on the sub with 2EQ, so MultEQ or MultEQXT would be a good upgrade.

Because of all these factors, the 988 is a good deal (not a steal) @ 400. And if later you decide you want a 989/2809, you can just resell it. But either way you will surely enjoy your upgraded HT. Once you do a $750-1000 speaker upgrade (you already have a good sub, right) you will truly appreciate either Denon. Let us know how it all works out.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #3006 of 3822 Old 12-08-2009, 09:14 AM
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Hi there,

I have a Mac Mini connected to my ARV2808 using optical for the audio and HDMI (via a DVI to HDMI converter) for the video.

This works a treat in the main Zone but I cannot seem to be able to send the video signal out to Zone 2 (the audio is fine).

I am not worried about the quality of the signal to zone 2, I only need it so I can change mp3's and browse the web and such from the other room as the wireless keyboard and mouse work through the walls.

I was just wondering whether it is actually possible to send a HDMI input out of the analogue video of zone 2 or if I'm beating my head against a brick wall? I've tried pretty much every combination of settings with no luck and do not have any other HDMI out devices to test with.

If not then I was also wondering whether, if I converted the DVI output to component, this could then to sent over zone 2 (although I would have to spend £100 on a converter and DVI cable so don't really want to have to test this theory without good reason and some kind of assurance it'll work).

Thanks
Josh
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post #3007 of 3822 Old 12-08-2009, 10:17 AM
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it's not possible, no receiver will "downconvert" HDMI video signals.

you could have saved yourself a lot of time by looking at the manual first. Look at the signal flow chart on pg 8.... it's pretty unambiguous -- the only video that you can send to Zone 2 is 480i composite or s-video.

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post #3008 of 3822 Old 12-08-2009, 10:38 AM
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Thanks very much.
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post #3009 of 3822 Old 12-09-2009, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

The only difference in SQ is DynEQ/Vol. DynEQ is increasingly noticable the further down from 0 you go. 0 is pretty darn loud, and is calibrated for your speakers and distance so it is 75 dB at pos #1. So after upgrading I enjoy much content at -20 (or less) with full fidelity which is quite significant for me, as it doesn't bother others and it saves my hearing. For action movies and some music listening I do crank it up and then DynEQ adds nothing. DynVol comes in handy sometimes but does not add SQ, it actually reduces dynamic range. AFAIK currently you are not getting Audyssey correction on the sub with 2EQ, so MultEQ or MultEQXT would be a good upgrade.

Because of all these factors, the 988 is a good deal (not a steal) @ 400. And if later you decide you want a 989/2809, you can just resell it. But either way you will surely enjoy your upgraded HT. Once you do a $750-1000 speaker upgrade (you already have a good sub, right) you will truly appreciate either Denon. Let us know how it all works out.


I've been real busy over in speaker forum and on the phone with BIC Of America. I now have plane.

(1) PL-26 center http://www.bicamerica.com/showpage.p...pe=6&spkrID=92

(2) PL-76 Front L/R http://www.bicamerica.com/showpage.p...pe=1&spkrID=90

(4) PL-66 surrounds http://www.bicamerica.com/showpage.p...pe=7&spkrID=96

I found all these for far less than MSRP. All total will just under $1,000

I will just have beef up mounts for the surrounds since PL-66's are so much heavier than my existing ones.

I should have stellar improvement in sound and be set up to get the most potential out of future Denon 988 or 989.
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post #3010 of 3822 Old 12-09-2009, 04:17 PM
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Well done, oedius.

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post #3011 of 3822 Old 12-09-2009, 06:26 PM
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I just bought the 2809 and ASD 11R. I also have a LG BD390. So what what should I expect to see as problems? I saw that 2310 has a problem with the LG BD390, does the 2809 have the same problem? and if so, what is another recommendation for a DVD player with WiFI? also, will I see a problem with my Itouch and video? How do I get the firmware updates?

I knew about these by reading posts, but the 2809 was what I needed with 2 front channels and a 3rd zone.

please help the novice newcomer
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post #3012 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 03:01 AM
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You posted this in this 2808 thread, 1610 thread, and the 1910 thread, yet you missed the 2809 thread here where it really belongs. Please do not post the same issue in multiple Denon threads as it will get answered in the proper Owner's thread. Thanks.

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post #3013 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 06:13 AM
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Thanks JD, won't happen again, and thanks for steering me.....I spent hours trying to figure where to go

Jimmy
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post #3014 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 07:28 AM
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I have the AVR-988 and am listening to two-channel music in a 2.1 configuration:
- Custom mode
- subwoofer set to "LFE+MAIN"
- subwoofer crossover set to "60Hz"
- "Pure Direct" mode

Is there any digital processing done on the LFE signal?

How does the AVR-988 derive the 60Hz crossover for the subwoofer?

I am assuming that since I am in the "Pure Driect" mode, there is no digital processing done on the two front speakers.

Thanks,
Dave
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post #3015 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 09:46 AM
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there is digital processing, that's the only way the AVR can do bass management

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post #3016 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmm View Post

Is there any digital processing done on the LFE signal?

How does the AVR-988 derive the 60Hz crossover for the subwoofer?

I am assuming that since I am in the "Pure Driect" mode, there is no digital processing done on the two front speakers.

You actually have the option of whether room EQ is ON or OFF in Direct Mode although the default is OFF. The 60hz crossover would be for your mains should you decide to run them at SMALL vice the default of LARGE.

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post #3017 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 11:10 AM
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note that in DIRECT/PURE modes, with the sub set to "LFE+MAIN" in the 2ch menu, that 60Hz "crossover" will actually become the LPF for the "double bass" sent to the sub. Since the speakers act as large in direct modes, the "crossover" frequency then controls the extent of the double-bass effect -- it doesn't matter if his mains are set to small or large when in direct mode.

also meant to note this above:

Quote:


Is there any digital processing done on the LFE signal?

there is no LFE with 2-channel material. do not confuse LFE with the subwoofer, they are not the same thing.

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post #3018 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Since the speakers act as large in direct modes, the "crossover" frequency then controls the extent of the double-bass effect -- it doesn't matter if his mains are set to small or large when in direct mode.

Hmmm ... AFAIK, as there is a LARGE or SMALL custom setting in the 2 CH Direct mode, the mains setting of LARGE or SMALL is no different then when not using 2 CH Direct:

Mains = LARGE w/sub = LFE + Main:
Mains play full range signal and sub gets freq below 60hz

Mains = SMALL w/sub = LFE + Main:
Mains only play to 60hz and sub gets freq below 60hz

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post #3019 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 11:34 AM
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as far as I know the mains ALWAYS play as full range when set to a DIRECT mode as it disables bass management. I have never tried with a 2808 though, so check it out for yourself. Easy to test -- just unplug (or turn off) the subwoofer, put the receiver in DIRECT mode with some bass-heavy music, and then fiddle with the crossover settings on the mains and see if you can hear the bass dissappear when the crossover is raised up high. Toggling between 40Hz and 200Hz crossover should make it obvious whether it's affecting the speakers or not.

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post #3020 of 3822 Old 12-10-2009, 12:47 PM
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Thanks for the response.

I am running my mains as "Large".

So, it seems that while in "Direct", the double bass sent to the sub has gone through digital processing.

But while in "Direct", has the signal going to the mains been subjected to the digital processing?

I am trying to run a 2.1 system with minimal digital processing.
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post #3021 of 3822 Old 12-11-2009, 04:07 AM
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Hello,

I am trying to fit this receiver (Denon AVR-2808CI) inside a cabinet with doors and the Volume and Input Selector knobs on the front of the receiver is preventing me from doing this.. I was able to pull the Selector knob off without any problem... However, I can't seem to pull the Volume knob off..Please help....
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post #3022 of 3822 Old 12-11-2009, 07:38 AM
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Pull harder?

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post #3023 of 3822 Old 12-12-2009, 03:47 PM
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I'm wondering how I'm supposed to setup my subs...I have two Def Tech ProSub 200TLs that I've connected to the Monitor Out - one RCA for the left channel and one RCA for the Right channel. That is the way the sub manual told me to connect. However now the receiver doesn't recognize me as having a subwoofer and I think that the crossover frequency is cutting out the sound that is going to the subs since I'm using the Left/Right monitor out RCA, which I presume is affected by the EQ adjustments?

Can someone help me here?

Thanks

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Denon 2808CI
2 Def Tech ProSub 200TL 12" 300W
Klipsch RF-62 fronts
no surround
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post #3024 of 3822 Old 12-12-2009, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flea333 View Post

I'm wondering how I'm supposed to setup my subs...I have two Def Tech ProSub 200TLs that I've connected to the Monitor Out - one RCA for the left channel and one RCA for the Right channel. That is the way the sub manual told me to connect. However now the receiver doesn't recognize me as having a subwoofer and I think that the crossover frequency is cutting out the sound that is going to the subs since I'm using the Left/Right monitor out RCA, which I presume is affected by the EQ adjustments? Can someone help me here?

Hi flea. Use the sub preout RCA on the AVR and an RCA Y splitter. Follow the Audyssey setup Guide dual sub setup directions http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5701

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post #3025 of 3822 Old 12-15-2009, 07:01 AM
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I may soon be geting a BD player that can bitstream the lossless codec and was wandering about the firmware upgrade from over a year ago for the 2808.

I have the firmware files but, I no longer have a laptop with a serial out, is there any other way to upgrade the firmware?

I honestly do not even remember what the issue was requiring this update; just that it had something to do with bitstreaming the lossless codecs.

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post #3026 of 3822 Old 12-15-2009, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rolltide1017 View Post

I may soon be geting a BD player that can bitstream the lossless codec and was wandering about the firmware upgrade. I honestly do not even remember what the issue was requiring this update; just that it had something to do with bitstreaming the lossless codecs.

This is the link to the info you need, which is in jd's sig.

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post #3027 of 3822 Old 12-16-2009, 11:07 AM
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Hi all,
I have a Denon 2808CI avr paired to a Samsung Lnt4671. I recently switched from cox digital cable to dish network. With the DVR connected to the AVR via HDMI, I get uninterrupted audio, however, the video plays for a few seconds, then the screen goes blank, then comes back for a few seconds and the cycle continues. It does this on HD and SD channels. When I use a component and optical connection from the DVR to the AVR, it works fine. I have tried different HDMI cables between the DVR and AVR and between the AVR and tv. Oh yeah, when the DVR is connected directly to the tv via HDMI it works just fine. Also, my PS3 is also connected via HDMI to the AVR and it works fine. I talked to Dish Network and they just told me my AVR was broken. I have played with all of the video/HDMI settings and have gotten nowhere.

Is this an AVR, tv, HDMI or DVR problem? It works fine with the component/optical setup, but I hate having it not working the way it is supposed to (not to mention giving up 1080p).

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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post #3028 of 3822 Old 12-16-2009, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cv640 View Post

... I talked to Dish Network and they just told me my AVR was broken...Is this an AVR, tv, HDMI or DVR problem? It works fine with the component/optical setup, but I hate having it not working the way it is supposed to (not to mention giving up 1080p)...

These sorts of HDMI-handshake related problems are why so many of us chose the options that avoid running the cablebox signal via HDMI through the AVR. The Denon is not "broken." If you can run optical out of the Sammie to the Denon, just connect the HDMI directly to the Sammie. No need to miss out on anything. BTW, can you actually see the difference between Dish HDMI 1080p vs component 1080i on that Sammie?

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post #3029 of 3822 Old 12-16-2009, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cv640 View Post

I talked to Dish Network and they just told me my AVR was broken. I have played with all of the video/HDMI settings and have gotten nowhere.

Is this an AVR, tv, HDMI or DVR problem? It works fine with the component/optical setup, but I hate having it not working the way it is supposed to (not to mention giving up 1080p).

That's rich ... the "DISH" CSR saying the "Denon" AVR is broken because it works straight to the TV. That's the problem with these entry level CSRs ... they have no real education on the technology they're supposed to be helping DISH owner's with. As SOM indicated, do what many of us do (especially with the 2808), run the HDMI directly to the Sammy and you gain an extra HDMI input for another component that really needs it. Cable/Sat boxes don't "really need it" as they cannot send HD audio at this point. Should you decide to go component to the 2808 instead, you can still get upscaled 1080p output via the HDMI from the 2808 to the Sammy, or if you want to play a 1080p Pay Per View, simply connect a component cable from the 2808 to the Sammy as well as the HDMI. With either solution you still get the same quality video and audio.

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post #3030 of 3822 Old 12-16-2009, 12:12 PM
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No, I can't notice it. I only get a handful of 1080p channels anyways. I figured it was something a little more involved than just a low grade HDMI cable or something like that. The other thing I was thinking (and I don't even know if this is possible) is that the signal strength to the TV may be too low. I have had problems in the past with my Wii and my tv. If I played a really old game (downloaded the original Super Mario) on my Wii (hooked up via component cable through AVR) the tv wouldn't play the video coming in over the HDMI. I had to take a composite (single) video cable and run it from the AVR to the tv, then it worked. If the tv doesn't like the signal, it goes blank and then in a couple seconds it gives a message about signal strength. Is it possible that the DVR signal (if sent over HDMI) is getting weaker in the AVR and my tv doesn't like it? Like I said before, it worked fine with Cox digital cable. Thanks for the input.
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Denon Avr 2808ci Receiver , Denon Avr 988 7 1 Channel Multizone Home Theater Receiver
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