Broken Pioneer door/flap on Optical 1 input. - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 33 Old 08-11-2012, 11:28 AM
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The link shown takes one to a page that tries to sell you an audio delay line - not helpful.
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post #32 of 33 Old 08-04-2015, 06:41 AM
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Bringing this thread back to life. Broke the Toslink flap on Panasonic ZT TV when moving equipment around. Suggestion of gluing a right angle Toslink adapter into the port should work fine. And this should work out better than what I was using since the Toslink port is on the side of my ZT. Really dislike the Toslink connections. I've broken the flaps before and I'm sure this won't be the last Toslink flap that I break.
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post #33 of 33 Old 01-01-2016, 01:00 PM
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According to Digi-Key, the Toshiba TORX177LFT-ND, has been replaced with DigiKey's p/n 1080-1432-ND, which is Everlight p/n PLR135/T9, a member of Everlight's PLR135 family. There are 2 others in the family: PLR135/T (Digi-Key 1080-1431-ND), and PLR135/T10 (Digi-Key 1080-1433-ND). From the Everlight datasheets, it looks like the /T9 and /T10 do have flaps, and the /T does not. -- it uses a little rubber (?) plug to seal the hole when the cable is unplugged. It's altogether a better idea, so if I elect to replace the receiver altogether I'll replace it with the new Everlight /T part, whose mechanical and electronic specs seem to be compatible. The /T10 looks like it has 5 pins, not 3, so I'm disqualifying it.

I found some TORX177LFT-NDs on eBay, shipping from Hong Kong. So I ordered 2, hoping I could replace the flap with only breaking one replacement out of the 2. I've also ordered a 10' Monoprice cable to replace the Premium, Razz-ma-tazzy cable I broke the flap with, so in a couple of weeks I may have some good news. Or not. For now, the bad cable is staying in the receiver OK.

Update: Looking at the parts I've accumulated so far, I've decided it would be better to replace the whole thing rather than trying to squeeze a new flap into the old one. Then, as a bonus, I can replace it with a flapless one. So, I've ordered a couple Digi-Key 1080-1431-NDs, which have the same circuit-board layout, and appear to be otherwise identical to, the TORX177LFT-NDs I received from Hong Kong. I found the Samsung service manual (my problem child is a UN50JS7000 TV) online, and it looks like the optical jack (Samsung p/n 3707-001106) is easily accessible and doesn't require any fancy desoldering/soldering equipment. That Samsung part is orderable, but apparently not obtainable, from Best Buy.

Way more information than I thought I'd find on this, explaining why there are so many p/ns for this seemingly common part at: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts...-5mm-mini.html

Thanks to all who have given advice here. While it's good to learn from your mistakes, it's a whole lot better to learn from others' .

Last edited by PhoebeAnn60; 01-28-2016 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Reworked to accomodate new knowledge
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