Any APC J15 Power Conditioner + Batt Bkup owners here? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I bought this thing from buy.com a month ago thinking it would be perfect having both the power regulation/conditioning and battery backup in one. When I did research on this I had read you are not supposed to 'daisy chain' a battery backup plugged into the back of a power conditioner so this APC model made sense.

Now for the problem. I can't stand the sounds this thing makes! It constantly makes a loud clanking sound as the unit switches to "regulating" mode. I just spent a while on the phone with the APC techs and it was a waste of time. They claim it's normal operation and my voltage in the house must be fluctuating enough to make it do this. I told him it does this when I change the channel on the cable box, or just an hour ago I was programming in a bunch of items to record on the DVR and every time I clicked to 'accept' the recordings it would CLANK (on regulation) then a few seconds later CLANK (regulation goes off again). This is destined for ebay and a nasty lo$$ to my wallet.

My questions are a) Does anyone own this and experience something similar, or know of a way to make it not so annoying?

b) What are other options for a power conditioner with battery backup.


Thanks for reading my rant And sorry the post is probably not in the right place, but there isn't a section this topic really fits into.
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post #2 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 02:45 PM
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??? I use an APC S-15 and I rarely hear anything but a soft click, mebbe 2-3 times a day.

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post #3 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 02:56 PM
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Greetings,

Like Kal, I have the S15 and have no issues like you describe. My recommendation is to try setting the Sensitivity on the unit to the Low setting. This should stop the constant switch over to battery power. If it is currently on the low setting then perhaps you should take a look at another option.

How much power are the components you have connected to it drawing?


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post #4 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by placidman View Post

Greetings,

Like Kal, I have the S15 and have no issues like you describe. My recommendation is to try setting the Sensitivity on the unit to the Low setting. This should stop the constant switch over to battery power. If it is currently on the low setting then perhaps you should take a look at another option.

How much power are the components you have connected to it drawing?


Regards,

It's on low sensitivity, but it's not the battery it's switching to. It's switching over to the transformer to regulate the power (APC tech explained this to me). CLANK CLANK CLANK I hate this thing

i'll check on the power draw....
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post #5 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 03:55 PM
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Isn't the AVR switching done by relays?

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post #6 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The last regulator I bought was a Furman commercial unit years ago, 19" rack mount when I used to mess around with that stuff. Thing was silent when it's transformer would regulate the power.
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post #7 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Draw is ~380-415 Watts
45% load
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post #8 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 05:02 PM
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My J10 lightly clicks on occasion. Yours must be problematic.


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post #9 of 51 Old 10-10-2007, 09:35 PM
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You need to check and see if the input voltage to the unit is fluctuating. If the unit is working correctly then what is happening is that every time your load changes the voltage is dipping enough to trigger a transfer. Mine kicks in every time the A/C compressor starts but only in the peak demand times of the day.

You might have an over sensitive unit, bad circuit it is plugged into, borderline feed to your house.
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post #10 of 51 Old 10-11-2007, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

Isn't the AVR switching done by relays?


Greetings,

Yes it is which should not result in noise he is describing. I believe that his unit is switiching over to battery power as the incoming voltage dips.


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post #11 of 51 Old 10-11-2007, 06:35 AM
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I've had the J15 for about a year now, never heard it CLANK.

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post #12 of 51 Old 10-11-2007, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by placidman View Post

Greetings,

Yes it is which should not result in noise he is describing. I believe that his unit is switiching over to battery power as the incoming voltage dips.


Regards,

Nope, it's not the battery. When the battery comes on it obviously tells it's on battery on the front display but also makes a buzzing noise (All APC UPS i've owned do this). This is the power regulation system of the J15 operating.
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post #13 of 51 Old 01-27-2008, 05:54 AM
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I have the J15 and I've never heard it clanking. Mine is normally running about 38% of full load. I think you have a bad unit or there is something really wrong with your power.

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post #14 of 51 Old 01-27-2008, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post

I have the J15 and I've never heard it clanking. Mine is normally running about 38% of full load. I think you have a bad unit or there is something really wrong with your power.


Old thread.... I was able to convince buy.com to take the APC piece of garbage back and bought a Belkin AVU1500. The thing is far better in every way and doesn't make a sound. It also doesn't screw with my Time Warner box's signal when in a digital AC outlet like the APC did.

While the APC might have been defective, APC's worthless warranty and support department told me it was "within spec" and would not authorize a replacement or return for repair. Buyer beware, APC sucks donkey balls, spend a little more and buy the Belkin.
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post #15 of 51 Old 04-03-2010, 10:10 PM
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I have a replacement unit that clanks probably every other day. I used to have a unit that rarely clanks. But I received the replacement unit because my original unit always froze my computer during bootup. Well... this replacement unit also freezes my computer during bootup. I no longer connect the J15 to my computer to avoid this problem.
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post #16 of 51 Old 04-24-2010, 12:32 PM
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My receiver died the other day when I turned it on and the J15 clicked. The battery might have also kicked in, I don't remember. I noticed today the Red Building Wiring Fault Light is on but all the wiring tested OK. Fortunately, I was able to bring my receiver back to life. I need to follow up with APC on this.
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post #17 of 51 Old 04-25-2010, 08:29 AM
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Sold mine year ago because of the clicking and clanking...It seems we have two camps here, those without clicks, and those with the clicks...Also those Monster stabilizers where too noisy for my taste..Had two of those, sold it thinking it was that particular unit.

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post #18 of 51 Old 04-25-2010, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

Sold mine year ago because of the clicking and clanking...It seems we have two camps here, those without clicks, and those with the clicks...Also those Monster stabilizers where too noisy for my taste..Had two of those, sold it thinking it was that particular unit.

Djoel

That's a shame. I no longer have the "Trust" that my "Legendary" APC unit will protect my equipment from a surge or lightning strike. Nothing is certain yet, but the evidence so far seems to point towards a faulty APC unit.

I was thinking Monster was the way to go next, but now not so sure about this either.
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post #19 of 51 Old 04-25-2010, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_ok2me View Post

That's a shame. I no longer have the "Trust" that my "Legendary" APC unit will protect my equipment from a surge or lightning strike. Nothing is certain yet, but the evidence so far seems to point towards a faulty APC unit.

I was thinking Monster was the way to go next, but now not so sure about this either.



What does the warranty says? They might reimburse you some how( but highly doubt it ), that is if you had your components properly attached to the APC. Cable box, or any other phone, Internet lines.

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post #20 of 51 Old 04-25-2010, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

What does the warranty says? They might reimburse you some how( but highly doubt it ), that is if you had your components properly attached to the APC. Cable box, or any other phone, Internet lines.

Djoel

My original unit was purchased in 2006. I received my so called defecting replacement unit in 2008. I've been reporting problems since receiving my replacement unit, but nothing was done about it. We'll see if I still qualify. I believe I should because I declared it a long time ago but APC never resolved my issues.

All the wiring seems fine to me. I don't send phone, internet or cable signals through the J15. It didn't seem to do anything for me.
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post #21 of 51 Old 04-27-2010, 09:46 PM
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can you guys give me examples of what you have running to these things. I am trying to find a all in one unit that will handle all equipment. Here is what I am dealing with:

Onkyo 875: 9.5A x 120volts=1,000+ watts
PJ: 240 watts or less
Oppo: 35 watts
xbox 360: 160 or less watts
FIos: 500 or less watts.

How the heck are you guys using these things? (serious question)

Even the S20s are listed at like 1,200 watts or something. Am I missing something, cause I would really like to get either the J15 or the S15. However, without the receiver being attached it kinda defeats the purpose since the HDMI would cause the screen to go dark. I need UPS for projector, but would like to have everything running, while I power down when necessary.

Hopefully someone can clear up my confusion

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post #22 of 51 Old 04-27-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wegafan View Post

can you guys give me examples of what you have running to these things. I am trying to find a all in one unit that will handle all equipment. Here is what I am dealing with:

Onkyo 875: 9.5A x 120volts=1,000+ watts
PJ: 240 watts or less
Oppo: 35 watts
xbox 360: 160 or less watts
FIos: 500 or less watts.

How the heck are you guys using these things? (serious question)

Those are max watts. 98% of the time I am using < 600W. If I use all equipment connected the other 2%, it's < 700W.

I wouldn't waste your money on an APC. It's clunky and if you have problems, they will assume something is wrong with your other equipment, never theirs. I've used it since 2006 and I could have found better use of the money.
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post #23 of 51 Old 04-27-2010, 10:07 PM
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Hypothetically, if I went with the s15 or s20 I would not have a (over wattage) issue based on the equipment I listed?

@OK2Me, that sucks about having an expensive piece of equipment and getting the ol' dodge. However, do you have your receiver running to yours?

I guess I can just get a APC (PC UPS) for the projector, but wanted an all in one unit. I have a power conditioner/Surge from Panamax, so would just need a UPS for projector....decisions...decisions.

And thanks for the info

Now that you mention the max wattage, I am thinking the Fios receiver did seem high with the 500 watts listed.

Now if I can get a good deal on the S20 :\\ Or just order a cheap UPS off Amazon. ARGGHHH!

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post #24 of 51 Old 04-27-2010, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wegafan View Post

Hypothetically, if I went with the s15 or s20 I would not have a (over wattage) issue based on the equipment I listed?

@OK2Me, that sucks about having an expensive piece of equipment and getting the ol' dodge. However, do you have your receiver running to yours?

I guess I can just get a APC (PC UPS) for the projector, but wanted an all in one unit. I have a power conditioner/Surge from Panamax, so would just need a UPS for projector....decisions...decisions.

And thanks for the info

Yes I have my receiver connected. That and the TV are the two most important equipment I want protected, although I have much less faith the J15 will protect it because my receiver went into protection mode last week simply after turning it on. I would have thought the J15 would have protected it from a surge, but I guess NOT.

I'd hate to sway you away from APC with the UPS all in one because it's so convenient, but I no longer trust it to protect my equipment. A separate UPS would be helpful.

I'm sure it's possibly to go over wattage if you blast your receiver. I rarely use my receiver, but when I do, I can't blast it because I live in a shared unit.

Oh... and the battery backup is only good for a few minutes. Still, this is enough time to safely shut everything off.
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post #25 of 51 Old 04-27-2010, 10:27 PM
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Yeah, I have a relatively small HT room. So I don't guess I blast it too much, GF probably wants less blast This with all things, if I could only pick one up for trial purposes without going through the whole return stress if I needed that. If only amazon had these in stock! LOL :P


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post #26 of 51 Old 04-28-2010, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wegafan View Post

can you guys give me examples of what you have running to these things. I am trying to find a all in one unit that will handle all equipment. Here is what I am dealing with:

Onkyo 875: 9.5A x 120volts=1,000+ watts
PJ: 240 watts or less
Oppo: 35 watts
xbox 360: 160 or less watts
FIos: 500 or less watts.

How the heck are you guys using these things? (serious question)

Even the S20s are listed at like 1,200 watts or something. Am I missing something, cause I would really like to get either the J15 or the S15. However, without the receiver being attached it kinda defeats the purpose since the HDMI would cause the screen to go dark. I need UPS for projector, but would like to have everything running, while I power down when necessary.

Hopefully someone can clear up my confusion


I've been running a J15 for about 2 years so far. My equipment is listed in my signature. The only thing I haven't connected to the J15 is the subwoofer.

Anyway, as has been mentioned, you're looking at max wattage which almost never happens. Of course it depends on what you're doing (what's on) but IIRC I never run over 40% load and normally it's much less than that. Also, I also never have less than an hour battery running time and it's usually more. Of course, if everything is on and an outage occurs, I shut everything down quickly anyway.

In short, unless you really have unusual circumstances, you are unlikely to overload a J15 or S20, etc.

BTW, my unit has never given me any problem and gets called upon surprisingly often.

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post #27 of 51 Old 04-28-2010, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lflorack View Post

I've been running a J15 for about 2 years so far. My equipment is listed in my signature. The only thing I haven't connected to the J15 is the subwoofer.

Anyway, as has been mentioned, you're looking at max wattage which almost never happens. Of course it depends on what you're doing (what's on) but IIRC I never run over 40% load and normally it's much less than that. Also, I also never have less than an hour battery running time and it's usually more. Of course, if everything is on and an outage occurs, I shut everything down quickly.

Either I'm interpreting it incorrectly or it sounds fishy but they J15 use 45w on idle, a TV uses 400-500w. That's almost 65%. At that rate you'll get about 15min of battery backup. I have never seen 1hr before!

Sorry if I'm wrong, but someone else please chime in because this sounds far too much of a fraud!
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post #28 of 51 Old 04-28-2010, 08:09 AM
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I have seen these 1 hour claims as well in reviews of the product. I am thinking that with a receiver alone in the mix, 1 hour is impossible, unless you have the daisy chained batteries. Also, since the above poster shut down when necessary, the 1 hour time "may" decrease more rapidly once the system is on battery power. More time, means more accurate reading?

Maybe?

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post #29 of 51 Old 04-28-2010, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wegafan View Post

I have seen these 1 hour claims as well in reviews of the product. I am thinking that with a receiver alone in the mix, 1 hour is impossible, unless you have the daisy chained batteries. Also, since the above poster shut down when necessary, the 1 hour time "may" decrease more rapidly once the system is on battery power. More time, means more accurate reading?

Maybe?

I appologize to lflorack for my reaction to the 1hr claim but if we could get a Powerchute status screenprint that should show the 1hr reading and load. Also, s small TV should draw less power. But, I find a 1hr battery backup impossible. 40% load is possible with small/low power equipment. Mathmatically it does not add to have 1hr backup with 400w load is 15min on their website.
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post #30 of 51 Old 04-28-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_ok2me View Post

I appologize to lflorack for my reaction to the 1hr claim but if we could get a Powerchute status screenprint that should show the 1hr reading and load. Also, s small TV should draw less power. But, I find a 1hr battery backup impossible. 40% load is possible with small/low power equipment. Mathmatically it does not add to have 1hr backup with 400w load is 15min on their website.

I agree.

And still uncertain of how to proceed. Waiting for friend to get back to me on what he can get the S models for. I have trouble paying list price for anything Also, this decision is more stressful than my PJ decision.

Oh, and I just had an idea, well I mean I read about this on another thread and it may make sense depending on the codes invovled.

Guy put one of those larger UPS units next to his electrical panel. I think he had a sepearte panel; however, he may be on to something, and actually it might not be that expensive.

However, I have a 20-amp circuit running to my closet for powering all equipment except Subs. If you can somehow have that circuit powered by the UPS then the whole 20-amp circuit would be covered. Units I am speaking about are like the APC Smart-UPS 3000VA LCD 120V. If this can be input in between the panel and the circuit run to the HT closet...would that be an option. Wonder what the downsides would be. Theoretically you would have Pure sine wave power to both outlets, and you could use a "cheaper" HT Power Conditioner in closet without the need for battery backup. Plus these larger units would allow for a little more time for shut down...still not sure if that "1 hour" would be attainable. But this seems like a solution. These run about $1,000 give or take, the electrician (if it can be done) would probably charge $250ish? Guessing.

Basically, it would be a Tower PC size box next to your electrical panel, and probably a cable or mini panel next to the larger panel for attaching the UPS to the Panel and then the output of the UPS to the 20-amp circuit into the HT closet. Okay, that probably made no sense

Oh, and would a APC H15 for example attached to a outlet that is supplied by pure sine wave power from a UPS be a "problem". I have not the answer, but would like to know.

Thoughts?

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