The Official Onkyo TX-SR705 Thread (FAQ in 1st Post) - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
woots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: ATLANTA, GA
Posts: 694
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Onkyo TX SR705: FAQ

This FAQ was last updated on: 12/11/08
[For full change log, refer to the bottom of post #2]



Click for a Large Image of the Front Panel of the receiver.

Click for a Large Image of the Back Panel of the receiver.

Click Here to view the TX SR705 details on Onkyo.com

Click Here to download a PDF version of the Manual


This NEW "official" thread was requested by many 705 owners. Our 705 community saw a need for an official thread that "started" with an FAQ as post #1. This is the most up to date thread. The previous thread was located here and likely contains valuable information for people who want to hunt it down. (Over 3000 posts on the old 705 thread.) This new centralized FAQ will contain a majority of the wealth of knowledge gained and contributed by everyone in this old thread.

Whether your a potential "Buyer" or an "Owner" be sure to read through ALL sections of this FAQ as some questions people ask are located in various areas. I just wanted to separate out these sections to make locating important information a little easier for people doing research on the 705.


Table of Contents
Popular Topics have been set in bold type.

Topics Covered in the "BUYER FAQ"
1) What’s the cheapest price I can find this receiver?
2) Do I need to have 7.1 speaker setup to get True HD or DTS HD MA?
3) If I only use a 5.1 speaker setup is this receiver worth getting?
4) Does this receiver upscale my video to 1080p?
5) So are you saying this receiver downscales ALL my signals to 720p?
6) Is there a loss in picture quality if I pass my HDMI signal through the receiver?
7a) Why should I get a 705 over the 605?
7b) Why should I get 705 over the 606?
8) Why should I get the 705 over the 805?
9) Whats the difference between the 705 and the 705P?
10) How much power does the Onkyo TX SR705 consume? How much more per month will I pay on my electricity bill?

Topics Covered in the "OWNER FAQ"
1) Should I upgrade my 5.1 channel speaker setup to 7.1?
2) Why is the lip sync on everything I watch way out of timing? Is there any way to fix this?
3) Why does my Onkyo 705 make clicking noises?
4) What are the secret key combinations to get to the extra features?
5) Is my receiver getting too hot? Do I have enough space? When does the internal fan turn on? Do I need to buy a fan?
6) What’s the best sounding DSP?
7) Why is my sub not working?
8) How should i set the onboard controls on my sub?
9) Why do my speakers make a hissing noise when I turn up the volume really loudly?
10) Why is there a loud hum in my sub?
11) My external fan is plugged into my receivers AC outlet and it doesn't turn off when I turn off my receiver! How do I fix this?
12) What does matrix mean? How does it help me?
13) Why can't I select PLIIx Movie when I have a 6 channel speaker setup?
14a) Can the 705 be firmware updated? Is there new firmware available for it?
14b) Is there a way to know which version of firmware my unit has just looking at the serial number on the outside of the box?
15) What's the difference between PLIIx Movie and PLIIx Music?
16) How do I install banana plugs on this receiver?
17) How do I turn off my TV speakers through the onkyo receiver?
18) Why can't I see my Custom title on the Game/Tv input display?
19) How many video sources can the 705 support and are there any tips for assigning them?
20) Should I be cautious when playing DTS HD MA audio via lossless bitstream?
21) Why do I get audio pauses (drop outs) when I change sources or the DSP changes? Can I fix this?

Topics Covered in "BLU RAY & HD DVD FAQ"

HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS: (HD DVD & BLU RAY)

1) Why don’t I see True HD and DTS HD MA light up on my receiver when I play Blu Ray and HD DVD movies?
2) Is there a difference with letting my player decode vs letting my receiver decode?
3) Whats lossless (raw) bitstream? Isn't all bitstreaming the same?
4) I can't hear the audio in the special features section of my Blu Ray or HD DVD movies or any of the menu sound effects! How do I fix this?
5) Does my player output lossless bitstream?
6) Is there a list of the best quality soundtracks from movies?

BLU RAY QUESTIONS:
1) I own a Playstation 3 and want to get the best sound possible with my Blu Ray movies what should my settings be?
2) Why won't my Playstation 3 allow my receiver to decode HD audio formats for me? Will it ever be able to?'
3) Is there a way to A/V Sync both movies and games on the PS3 so that it doesn't have a dual personality?

HD DVD QUESTIONS:
1) Does the XA2 player output lossless bitstream?

Topics Covered in "AUDYSSEY/SETUP FAQ" (Post #2)
1) How should I place my speakers or prepare my room?
2) Do I need a tripod to run MultEQ XT?
3) How should I place the microphone to run Audyssey MultEQ XT?
4) Should I be in the room while Audyssey runs?
5) What target curve does Audyssey use on the 705?
6) Why is Audyssey's subwoofer distance different than its physical distance?
7) Audyssey detects all my speakers as Large/Full Range. Should I leave it that way?
8) Okay, so what crossover settings should I use for my speakers then?
9) Should I change the speaker distances that Audyssey sets?
10) Why is the subwoofer trim setting so low?
11) Why are all my channel trims really low?
12) I made a noise/the dog barked/the air conditioner kicked on during Audyssey setup. Do I have to start over?
13) What does Audyssey MultEQ XT actually do?
14) Why can't I tweak the EQ settings that Audyssey comes up with?
15) But if that's true, why does X brand let you change the EQ after Audyssey?
16) If Audyssey equalizes my subwoofer's in-room response, why doesn't my subwoofer have flat response when checked with test tones?
17) Do I need to run Audyssey MultEQ XT for each input or just once?
18) If the LFE crossover is at 80 and my speakers are crossed over higher than that, am I losing sound between them?
19) Though I was careful with mic placement and room setup, I just don't like the Audyssey equalization. Can I change it?

Topics Covered in "TOP 10 ONKYO RECEIVER SETUP MISTAKES" (Post #2)
1) Setting HDMI Audio Out=ON
2) Expecting to see the TrueHD indicator light up with input from a PS3, HD-A1, HD-A2, HD-A3 etc.
3) Expecting to get sound in Zone 2/3 for sources that are connected only with HDMI or SPDIF cables
4) Sloppy speaker cabling
5) Using the Surr Back speaker terminals instead of the Surr terminals in a 5.1 system
6) Plugging your subwoofer into the multichannel subwoofer input instead of the subwoofer preout
7) Improperly setting the volume knob on your subwoofer before running Audyssey
8) Not checking Audyssey's results after doing a calibration
9) Not setting Listening Modes for 2 channel sources
10) Neither running Audyssey nor manually configuring your speakers

Topics Covered in "INFO, LINKS & TOOLS" (Post #2)
1) Do you have any links to help me better understand some of the DSP technology behind my receiver?
2) Do you have any links to tools/wires/accessories that will be helpful to me with setting up or using this receiver?
3) What is ClubOnkyo and where do I sign up?

Special Thanks and Change Log (Post #2)

TIP: Still can't find what you want?
I know this thread has grown into astronomical sizes, but chances are the info you are looking for is found below inside the answer to another question. Here is a tip to find the info you need without reading everything (this works on all websites.) Whether you are in IE or Firefox this trick works.... click both these keys at same time on your keyboard...Ctrl-F... this brings up a word search box. Type a single keyword inside that box and you can search the page forward or backward for locations of that word. Example type "Playstation".. you will now see everywhere that word is mentioned and may help you locate a problem related to the Playstation. Just be sure to limit your search word to a single word as that will give you the greatest chance to locate the info you need.

◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

● BUYER FAQ


Questions asked most by people who are still in the research phase of shopping for a new receiver.

1) What’s the cheapest price I can find this receiver?

For Readers in United States:
The price constantly changes up and down since the day this receiver came out. Even a several months after release we saw this unit get sold around the holidays for the full MSRP of $799.99 from major retailers. This has become a VERY popular receiver model in the 705 lineup, so these retailers have been able to get away with higher prices and still keep their inventory moving on the 705's.

UPDATE: $395.00 "New" at B&H Photo

For Readers in Australia:
The 705 RRP is $1699AUD but it is easy to pick it up for $1300AUD or slightly lower from box movers such as Harvey Norman and JB HiFi. Some members have got it at $1280, with a lucky few getting it at $1260 (apparently this is cost price).

For Readers in Canada:
Onkyo is not marketing very well Canada and hard to find. The cheapest you can find these receivers are at electronicsforless.ca, listed at 849.99 for the black model and 769.99 for the silver. Usually the price is around $999. Because of this, it may or may not be cheaper to have a friend in the US buy one for you and ship it to you directly. (if you have that advantage).

Refurbished Units:
If a refurbished 705 is something your willing to consider please read the following. Some of our users have been buying refurbished 705 units off Shoponkyo lately and seem to be having great success with them. Also, the refurb 705's tend to be more updated with the latest firmwares then newer store bought models (use the firmware below to get the latest versions). The price of the refurb units are considerably less then new retail prices. They don't appear to be available for sale at all times so you will need to keep an eye out for the 705 refurbs on their site.

Check the following link periodically if you are looking to buy a refurbished 705 from Onkyo.
http://www.shoponkyo.com/products.cf...ubcat=Receiver

The warranty does appear to be less with the refurbished receivers vs new receivers. The refurbs receivers are "1 year Parts & labor" and new receivers are "2 years Parts & Labor", read here for more info: (http://www.onkyousa.com/warranty.cfm)

2) Do I need to have 7.1 speaker setup to get True HD or DTS HD MA?

No you do not need 7.1 for True HD or DTS HD MA. Most of the time these formats are mastered in 5.1 format, rarely in 6.1 format and extremely rarely in 7.1 format. When you use the receiver no matter what format your audio is in the receiver will play back your audio in 5.1 channels or 6.1 channels (which ever you own and set up for this receiver.)

3) If I only use a 5.1 speaker setup is this receiver worth getting?

Yes this receiver sounds great in 5.1, 6.1 and 7.1. There is room to grow for when you can budget 1 or 2 more satellites if you ever want them

4) Does this receiver upscale my video to 1080p?

This receiver won’t upscale to 1080p. The maximum resolution it can upscale video to is 720p. If you want an Onkyo receiver that upscales low resolution sources to 1080p I recommend you look at the Onkyo 875 or Onkyo 905 models.

5) So are you saying this receiver downscales ALL my signals to 720p?

No. This receiver passes signals from the same source input type to the same source output type at whatever resolution it was when it began.
For example:
1080p HDMI input = 1080p HDMI output
1080p component input = 1080p component output

The only time it downscales videos is when you change the input type via the receiver.
For Example:
1080 Component input = 720p HDMI output

6) Is there a loss in picture quality if I pass my HDMI signal through the receiver?

No. This receiver does NOT change the quality of the video. It’s a straight HDMI pass through.

7a) Why should I get a 705 over the 605?

General
- THX Select 2 Certification (605 has no THX)
- additional 10 watts per channel
- onboard fans for cooling
- Blue backlighting around the volume knob!!
- Advanced remote control - fully backlit with learning/programming abilities

Audio Processing
- 3 DSPs and more listening modes
- Audyssey MultiEQ vs 2EQ on the 605. MultiEQ is more advanced and supports 8 listening positions rather than 2
- 7 band equaliser vs 5 band
- expanded range of crossover frequencies (70Hz and 90Hz)
- ability to post process 5.1 channel PCM signals (ie from internally decoding BD/HDDVD players) to 6.1 or 7.1 (605 apparently cant do this on 5.1ch PCM)
- accepts DSD format (from SACDs) over multi channel inputs
- 605 cant apply Audyssey when processing TrueHD/DTS-MA bitstreams over HDMI 1.3 due to less processing power

Inputs/Outputs
- +1 HDMI input
- +1 digital coax audio input
- +1 optical audio output
- 7.1 channel RCA pre-outs
- Phono input
- 12V trigger out
- IR in (for infrared repeater systems)
- RS232 COM port
- zone 2 speaker connections have proper binding posts

7b) Why should I get 705 over the 606?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinglerxt View Post

606 vs 705 thread here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=13665547

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 View Post

The 705 has more power and THX certification
....the 606 has... 1 more HDMI input and 1080i upconversion.

Go to the Onkyo web site and you can do a direct compare of the 705 and 606 by putting checks next to the receivers and clicking compare at the to of the page.

8) Why should I get the 705 over the 805?

-More affordable
-Much small compact body size and weight:
705 = Dimensions (W x H x D) 17 1/8" x 6 7/8" x 14 13/16" | Weight 28.4 lbs. (12.9 kg)
805 = Dimensions (W x H x D) 17 1/8" x 7 5/8" x 18 1/16" | Weight 50.9 lbs. (23.1 kg)
-More power efficient (6.2 amps vs 9.5 amps) Normal household circuit breaker is 20 amps. Combined with TV, sub, players, game consoles, lights, etc. Its not a major deterrent as you can relocate devices around the room onto other circuit breaker outlets but its important to stay aware of the power loud. 9.5 amp is also at max volume only.. expect that to be around 80% of that number at normal volume levels.
-Cooler running and doesn't pose a fire risk. (Search official 805 thread for evidence of this; several users have said their 805’s burnt out and caught fire after a few weeks of use. Its not common but the risk exists. These users also had plenty of space around their receiver so it wasn't that those users didn't allow for breathing room. For me, risk of fire was the number one deterrent.)
-The video section of the 805 is basically the same as the 705. You need to step up to the 875/905 to get improvements in video.

9) Whats the difference between the 705 and the 705P?

The 705P is part of the professional series from Onkyo. Visit the link located here for more information. When you compare the specs of the 705 vs the 705p they are indentical. The only obvious difference in these 2 units is the 705p is rack mountable. The 705P retails for 100 dollars more then the 705. The jury is still out on whether the 705P has any internal component differences over the 705. If any of our users discover new information on this. Please let me know and I will post it.

10) How much power does the Onkyo TX SR705 consume? How much more per month will I pay on my electricity bill?

This receiver usually draws about 4-5 amps at normal volume levels while its on and playing audio. Its maximum load is 6.2 amps at maximum volume full 7 channel audio (like all channel audio DSP setting and zone 2 going at same time.. which people rarely use all at the same time)

- Watts = Volts x Amps
- If we use 5 amps as our load.....120v x 5 amps = 600watts (per hour you run this at normal volume levels)
- A normal light bulb is 60watts, so its like 10 lightbulbs running.
Your electricity bill tells you how many Kilo-Watt hours (kWh) you consume so lets convert this into a monthly figure.
- 600 watts per hour is 0.6 Kilo-Watt hours
-If you run it 4 hours a day... its 2.4 kilo-watt hours per day
A 31 day month its 74.4 kilo-watt hours per month (if you run it every day 4 hours a day)

Where I live its about 8.6 cents per kilo-watt hour If you want to get an idea of how much you pay grab your eletricity bill or visit this website for a general idea.
http://www.eia.doe.gov/bookshelf/bro...rep/index.html It gives you a break down of most of the USA. If you live outside of the US please just consult your bill. Also, if you live outside the US your voltage is different for your electrical outlets so you will need to plug in your correct voltage to figure out the exact cost per month to you.

(Your kWh fee) x (Kill-Watt hour usage per month) = [how much you pay]

So for me its about $6.40 a month more on the electrical bill to own this receiver and play it every day for 4 hours a day.... if you run it about 8 hours every day double this number to $12.80 a month.

◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

● OWNER FAQ

Questions asked most by owners of the 705.

1) Should I upgrade my 5.1 channel speaker setup to 7.1?

It’s not required but this receiver does unlock more DSPs when you add 7.1 speaker channels to your setup. When you run formats like PLIIx even on 5.1 sources it fills out the 7.1 speakers with audio and it sounds good.

2) Why is the lip sync on everything I watch way out of timing? Is there any way to fix this?

PLEASE READ: (Not everyone experiences lip sync problems. If you are one of those individuals please skip this entire section, as making the changes described below could create a lip sync problem for those user. However, if you do already experience lip sync problems the methods described below are designed to get you back in proper sync. Just a side note, these methods are only "settings" tweaks and they are nothing damaging or permanent to the receiver. This aside is just to save some users extra work when they don't need to do these steps.)

This has become probably the most talked about question recently within many of these new receivers. All the Onkyo’s in this new series suffer from it even the 805 and 905. Even a few other new brands tend to have this problem too (including Denon). I wrote a very lengthy topic on how to correct it and make it near perfect if not totally perfect. If you take the time to read this and do everything in this it will help you’re a lot.

Guide on Correcting Onkyo Audio Sync Delay

Lip sync is a problem with all these new Onkyo receivers in this series, including the higher priced models. You will find owners within every single model level that both will and will not agree that there is indeed audio lag that gets introduced through this receiver. I think the reason for this variance of opinions isn't due to the fact that some people are more tolerant then others. I believe this is due to the fact that "some" source components create lag on their own to begin with and perhaps they were not overly visible before. (key word being "some" components, not all). However, after the receiver is installed the situation worsened to the point of VERY noticeable. I say this because on my cable box (even before this receiver) some HD channels via HDMI never created lag and some other ones were ALWAYS laggy. After the receiver they ALL became laggy and the bad ones became unbelievably BAD! So, I just want to clarify the problem DOES exist, but the extent of the problem is unique to each persons source equipment setup. (ex. Cable boxes, satellite boxes, tivos, consoles, dvd players, etc)

The good news is there are ways to fix this problem so that it is within a range that is tolerable and near perfect; Rather then something that is just angering to watch and listen to.

NOTE: Every input source mode you select on this receiver (ex. DVD, DVR, CBL, GAME, etc) each of these modes allow you to individually tweak the A/V sync unique to each source input. When you follow these steps below be sure to tweak the A/V settings for ALL of your difference modes. (Ex. PS3, Cable, Xbox 360, etc) They all produce unique audio lag and this receiver will remember different A/V Sync delay settings for each of these Video Modes.

Even if you experience lag using Analog and not HDMI, these steps below will come close to curing them.

○ Solution 1 (A/V Sync Adjustment)
This is the primary means by which you are going to fix this problem!

on the remote click "menu" and then select:
> 4. Source Setup > A/V Sync > (tweak this setting)

I was very angry at the delay when I 1st bought this receiver the 1st 2 weeks of ownership. Until I decided keeping everything at 0ms and being angry wasn't a solution! That is when I got serious about tweaking the lag to perfection. Since then, the lag is very unnoticeable on all my source.

Set up a A-B loop with someone talking (a close up camera shot of their mouth, saying a full length paragraph not one or two words.) You can set A-B loops with DVDs and you can also loop stuff with your TV DVR (if you own one). If you don't have a DVR cable/sat box then just watch a show that has someone talking a long time with a close up camera shot for the entire duration (cooking shows I found are perfect for A/V sync tweaking, so hop over to Food network HD).

NOTE: YOU WILL NEVER get the delay 100% perfect, you are only going to get it 99.9% of the way there! Be aware of this fact! You can easily blow past the "sweetspot" since you can never nail the delay perfectly. This is why you REALLY have to take your time! Really pay attention if the voice is ahead of the lips moving OR if the lips moving is ahead of the voice, this is a very fine line that can be hard to spot. If you are very patient and watchful, you will actually notice the point when the voice and lip movement reverse delay roles (1 before the other) in the opposite direction. THIS is when you want to keep that setting at that very point, cause its as close as you are going to get it. Trust me when you are done with A/V syncing all your equipment you will hardly notice lag like you are at the moment of doing these finite tests.

My advice is start at 0ms and work your way up 1 step upward at a time. Really analyze at every single step! Typically most things seem to sync up nice in the range of 0-80ms. Just be sure to play around with the entire delay range before giving up. If it doesn't work near 0ms you may need to jump it way higher.

Cable/Sat HDTV Sync TIPS:
I suggest when you set up your Cable or Satellite box that you pick a good non voice laggy "HD" channel (something that never lagged before you bought this new receiver). If you bought this receiver the same time as your tv, then plug the cable box directly to the tv and find a channel that seems like voices have no lip sync lag (or very little). This will become your "guinea pig" A/V sync testing base line channel to tweak your receiver to. I mention this because some channels where I live lag badly even when the I have box plugged directly into my tv's hdmi slot. If I attempted to voice sync just for that "bad" channel (which I did my 1st time doing this) all my other channels would be horribly out of sync. This is why you need to tweak the receiver to a good non audio lag channel. The good news is, that if you can A/V sync your receiver to this base-line channel, the lip sync matches up nicely on all the other channels. Even the really troublesome channels seem to be slightly improved. You just have to differentiate; is the lag coming from the "channel", or my receiver? Some channels will just always be out of whack. (TNT HD is notorious for this) I rather have the majority of my channels function correctly though instead of them all suffering for the one bad channel.

Game Console Sync TIPS:
Video games are the easiest to tweak the A/V sync. Just find a game that produces a sound when you press a button on the controller. You can adjust the A/V sync based on the delay between when you press the button, to the time when you hear the sound. So this is a very tactile and easy sound sync trick for consoles. (In some ways this is a lot like setting the ASIO midi delay speed of midi musical instruments like keyboards and drum machines, or those of you who are musicians too, with really bad setting you press the button and a 1/4 second later you hear the sound.)

PS3 as a Blu Ray movie player and a gaming console Sync TIPS:

PLEASE READ: (The following statements and recommendations are only applicable if you are experiencing the issues described within the paragraphs directly below. If you don't experience this dual sync issues on your PS3 just please skip over this section; as well as the section it refers to lower down the FAQ)

You may notice that ps3 has a dual personality when plugged in via hdmi with this receiver. You may notice blu ray movies play with no lip sync lag, but the video games on the ps3 do! (or vice versa) Here lies the dilemma. Since you can only tweak the A/V sync for the whole ps3, you have to chose which is more important for perfect sync. The video games or the movies?! The ultimate solution is just buy an external blu ray or hd dvd player and sync the ps3 for what it was made to do best (play video games). I myself use it to game and to watch movies. Thankfully I own a Xbox 360 and all the good games come out for that console and i find myself rarely playing PS3 anyway. (I am sure I would get flamed for saying that on the Sony boards) Anyhow, I sync my receiver to watch movies perfectly on the PS3; But, yes the games can sometimes get WAY out of whack with the current settings I have chosen. Its up for you to decide.

If you are someone who uses it for both you will find not all games requires 100% perfect lip sync. Only music games (like Rock Band) or lip sync close up cut scene games (like heavenly sword) will make this situation obvious. The rest of the time you will hardly notice. You may also notice not all games are out of lag when you sync up for blu ray movies. I have a few games that are in sync and some that are out of sync. (very strange I know)

I would suggest you pick one or the other; Pick whichever you do most (play games or watch movies), that will make you happiest.

UPDATE:
Please read the "BLU RAY & HD DVD FAQ" > "BLU RAY QUESTIONS:" section further down this page for new ways to get the best of both worlds with your PS3. We have discovered that you can have perfectly sync'd movies + games out of your ps3.

○ Solution 2 (Speaker Distance Trick) Use only for extreme lag situations
If you find you are at bottom end of the A/V adjustment range (at zero ms) and you still are not in sync and you are absolutely sure that you need to go lower then zero (try everything higher then zero 1st).. if all else fails try this option below.

on the remote click "menu" and then select:
> 2. Speaker Setup > Speaker Distance > (adjust these distances)

The original math for this concept I posted a while back and can be located here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1636

For every 1 foot you add to these speakers you get approximately 1ms of reduced lip sync delay... ex. 10 ft = 10 ms. If you find that on some of your receivers mode settings you are at the extreme top or bottom end of A/V sync and you still cant get it perfect try this technique above. Please note that if you add 10 feet to 1 speaker add exactly 10 feet to all the speakers. What this is doing is tricking the receiver into thinking your speakers are further away then they actually are in reality and they compensate by playing sooner thereby reducing the delay even further then is allowed in A/V Sync. Please be mindful that the maximum speaker distance range this receiver allows you to set up for is 30 feet. If you decide you want to add 10 feet to all your speakers be sure you can add +10 for all of your speaker's settings without going over 30ft. on any of them. Just increase or decrease this distance accordingly for your setup.

Please note, that when you do this speaker distance increase, it is holistic for the entire receiver and not an individual mode option. If you do this you 'may' have to go back and re-compensate the A/V sync on some of your other modes that you already tweaked to perfection.

Lastly, I have tried this myself with a lot of experimenting. Even though increasing the speaker distance to near 30 feet distance provides the best overall A/V sync solution, it DOES come at a cost. The tonal quality of my playback seemed like it took a slight degradation when I increased the distance that far. You will have to be the judge of that for yourself. To me it wasn't a horrible quality decrease but it seemed noticeable enough for me to go back and reduce the distance I set to put some vibrancy back into my system. This Option in my opinion is a trade off, lip sync correction for listening quality. Its a tough choice so this is why I said use only for extreme situations. This distance trick may not have such a negative effect on all speaker brands. Be a judge for yourself before you rule this option out totally before trying it.

UPDATE: An Audyssey rep said that adding distance to your speakers wouldn't degrade audio sound. However, there may be more to why I hear a loss in quality other then Audyssey EQ. Perhaps the DSP's are augmenting the sound differently at greater distances in a negative way. If you do this method and find the quality is perfect please report it on the forum.. if you try this and you hear a degradation in sound quality please report that as well.

○ Solution 3 (Lip Sync) All your equipment must be HDMI 1.3 to get this feature!

*Update*
Users who have a pure 1.3 hdmi chain (TV, Receiver and Source) have reported how this feature functions.

The advantage of using this Lip Sync feature is that you know the delay required by the TV to eliminate lip sync problems. It does NOT give you a new adjustment option, just information. Unfortunately, its not clear how much delay is needed by the 705 itself in the various source connection scenarios. Because, of this its not very helpful and shouldn't be consider an option for correction.


on the remote click "menu" and then select:
> 7. Hardware Setup > HDMI > Lip Sync (switch this to enable)

now check for the following, select:
> 4. Source Setup > A/V Sync > "Lip Sync" feature will now be visible below "A/V Sync" (This reports the delay of the Lip Sync signal as a guide to adjust your A/V Delay with.)

3) Why does my Onkyo 705 make clicking noises?

Take the time to set all your Listening Modes to specific options and not the default. If you leave all your listening modes to default every time the audio format type changes as your flip TV channels your receivers hops around to different DSP modes.. So you will hear a clicking as the receiver is switching amplifier modes. I have most of my stuff set to PLIIx Movie so as I flip channels it always stays in that format and I don’t get click noises. Only time I still get a click is when I start up Blu Ray on my player as the player starts up before it gets to the menu.. After that no more clicks.

4) What are the secret key combinations to get to the extra features?

PLEASE READ FIRST:
Please note, all of the commands below are applied by using the buttons on the front panel of your receiver and NOT on your remote. In addition, the "secret" menu screens will only appear on the front display panel of your receiver, they will NOT show up on your TV.


How do I see the Temperature readout on this receiver?
1) Turn on Receiver
2) HOLD down the "Display" button and press "Standby" button once.
3) Release the "Display" button.
4) Now press the "Tone" button once
5) The temperature in Celsius and Fahrenheit will be displayed. These temperatures are being displayed in real time so you can leave this info on display for as long as you want to monitor the receivers temp.

How do I force the 705 to upscale video to 720p? (Also, other adjustable video settings)

1) Turn on Receiver
2) HOLD down the "Aux" button and press "Standby" button once.
3) Release the "Aux" button.
4) The LED display should read "Resolution: Auto." Locate the circular directional control pad to the left of the main volume knob. Use this circular directional pad and click "right or left" to change to select 720p or cycle through other settings you desire.
5) You can also use this circular directional pad and click "up or down" to cycle through other adjustable video options located in this hidden menu.

How do I know which firmware I have?
1) Turn on Receiver
2) HOLD down the "Display" button and press "Standby" button once.
3) Release the "Display" button.
4) Press the + or – keys to cycle forward and backward through all the firmware display pages.

Is there a way to store my settings before doing the Factory Reset Command?
(Warning:
A user has reported this command failed and wiped there user settings. Only do this before you are about to do a Factory Reset so you have nothing to lose since there is a risk of wiping the settings with this command it it happens to fail.)
Save the settings with this command:
1) Hold down Setup & press enter twice. (It will say settings stored.)
Then when ready to restore your settings:
1) Hold down Setup and press return. (It should say settings restored.)

Is there a Factory Reset Command?
(Warning: You will lose ALL of your settings, labels, Audyssey, etc.)

1) Turn on Receiver.
2) HOLD down the "VCR/DVR" button and press "Standby" button once.
3) All your settings get manually cleared out.

Unknown test and monitoring commands (WARNING: Potentially dangerous to your equipment)
I discovered these playing around with various key combination. [If anyone knows what these do specifically, please let me know.] However, I would highly recommend you avoid experimenting with these commands any further unless you have official confirmation on what they do. They could prove hazardous to your equipment. Stick to the commands listed above .. they are safe to use and have known effects.


1) Game/TV+Standby = ?? (Displays a 1 followed by a lot of zeros, Purpose unknown)
2) CBL/Sat+Standby = ?? (Displays a ratio of some kind, Purpose unknown)
3) Return+Standby = ?? (Something thats being actively monitored, Purpose unknown)

4) CD+Standby = Speaker voltage & current protect mode test (CAUTION: DO NOT DO THIS WITH SPEAKERS ATTACHED. YOU MAY BLOW THEM OUT (One of our members blew his speakers experimenting with this command) I wont outline the steps required to go further with this test (more input is needed to enable the tests) just be warned not to mess with this one unless you truly know what your doing and have a purpose to perform this test.)

5) Is my receiver getting too hot? Do I have enough space? When does the internal fan turn on? Do I need to buy a fan?

Is my receiver getting too hot? Do I have enough space?
You should give your receiver plenty of elbow space around and especially above your receiver. If you have 0-3 inches room above your receiver only this is a red flag that you need to relocate your receiver or possibly add an after market fan to keep things cool. Use the temperature key combination trick (posted above in the FAQ) to find out what temperature you are currently running at. I recommend you run your receiver a few hours at normal listening volume to get an accurate impression of how much heat your receiver is producing (Both volume and duration will increase the heat.) Most users with low room above the receiver get about 125 degree F after a few hours of use. After buying a fan most users see a 20-25 degree temperature drop.

When does the internal fan turn on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 View Post

...I have done much testing with firmware 1.02 and 1.06 both with the same outcome.
The fans on the 705 will activate when the temperature reaches 55C/131F and deactivates once the temp lowers to 50C/122F. This has been tested many times...

Do I need to buy a fan?
We have seen no cases of users here on the thread that said they had overheating problems (with or without use of fans). People have only purchased aftermarket fans to be proactive with possible over heating prevention. It shouldn't be thought of as a requirement as long as you give the manuals indicated space around the receiver.

If you do chose to buy a fan, place it laying flat on top of your receiver blowing up and out on the back right quadrant of the receiver where the air holes are. This is the receiver’s hotspot and responds best to cooling here. Internally there are fans inside the unit blowing up. If you buy an after market fan placed on top of the receiver blowing up also.. This helps vent the receiver in a single direction is much more effective (don’t face it blowing in).

There are lots of places to buy fans however a good number of us users have bought ones from this site. http://www.buyextras.com/cacoso.html They splice an AC/DC converter on them so you can plug them into the back of your receivers AC power outlet. As you turn on and off your receiver the fan will turn on it off along with it. I recommend getting one that suits the amount of space your have above your receiver and try to get one with the highest CFM that isn’t too loud. I personally opted for the 120mm ultra quiet variety some went for the dual fan pancake setup.

Troubleshooting: If you buy an external fan and it doesn't turn on and off with your receiver there is a way to correct this problem. Please refer to Question 11 of this FAQ for more details.

6) What’s the best sounding DSP?

This is totally subjective! However, quite a large number of users on this thread agree PLIIx is probably the all around best for watching TV and movies. I personally also love it for games. When it comes to music some people prefer Pure Audio, I prefer All channel Stereo (for full volume). Of course for True HD use True HD and DTS HD MA use DTS HD MA.

7) Why is my sub not working?

Make sure it is plugged into the Subwoofer PRE-OUT RCA jack, as opposed to the Subwoofer Input jack of the Multi Channel input section

8) How should i set the onboard controls on my sub?

Set the sub's phase as per manufacturer recommendations.
Set the sub's crossover as high as it goes (so only the receiver's sub crossover comes into play)
Set the sub's volume/gain control to halfway or less. After running Audyssey setup if the receiver has too much negative or positive level trim on the sub channel, you may want to re-adjust the sub's on board gain and re-run audyssey. The aim is to have the sub channel's speaker level on the onkyo around the same range as the other channels (ie if the onkyo has set the sub to +10 you know you must have the on board gain set too low and vice versa)

9) Why do my speakers make a hissing noise when I turn up the volume really loudly?

All amplifiers no matter how good the quality is are going to hiss when you crank up the volume to extreme levels. After all, it is an amplifier so it will amplify any noise in its signal path. Every little solder point on the receivers circuit board, every wire you use to interconnect components, it all introduces resistance that will end up coming out as noise. Obviously the better your amplifier quality is the less and less noise you will get (even 2000 dollar receiver will hiss at 100% volume). Very cheap receivers in 100-200 dollar range hiss like a rattlesnake even at 50% total volume level. We have found that this receiver doesn't start to produce any hiss until level 75-100 relative volume (At 75 you will not even notice it, at 100 it sounds like someone whispering loudly). Overall, this is a good quality receiver for the money, but its not immune to the laws of physics and of course is not privy to the best in class internal components cause of the price range.

NOTE: If this is not the problem and you are still getting a hiss at less then 75 volume then you need to look at your wiring. Its likely you are getting interference.

10) Why is there a loud hum in my sub?

This is a rare problem that some users have expressed concern over. I say rare because most people in this community do NOT have this problem. You 1st need to rule out all the obvious causes of hum like settings or grounding problems. Here is are interesting articles that talks about these issues.

http://www.cepro.com/article/electri..._fundamentals/
http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/co...m-hum-and-buzz
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698

Here is a popular device thats being sold to stop ground loop hums. http://www.ebtechaudio.com/humxdes.html

If you are getting a loud hum in your subwoofer after buying this receiver and you have checked for all the obvious problems (sub settings, audyssey /eq tweaks, ground loop check, RFI/EMI, etc) then I would advise your use your 30 day exchange/money back policies and either try to get another 705 unit (in case its defective) or look into upgrading to the 805 or another receiver brand.

Here is some additional info from a 705 owner who had the hum issue and isolated what the issue was an found a way to diminish it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rare-air View Post

I believe all the hum issues are coming from ground loops setup in the HDMI input/outputs. To prove this disconnect all devices and use a Toslink to receiver and HDMI to TV. My bet is that all hum issues are gone no matter how loud. Now hook up one HDMI device in and HDMI out to TV. Do you hear hum, my bet is you do. If not add another HDMI device if you hear hum you just setup a ground loop through that device.

I believe this to be the googled "Pin 1 problem" and ultimately due to the design of the 705. This will only happen on some setups with devices with different ground levels. The 805 seems to be designed better so as to avoid the problem. At least I have heard users who had the problem upgraded and it was not present.

That said I did fix the problem well enough to at least enjoy my 705. I star grounded all my devices chassis. I also star grounded all my HDMI cables, added Radio shack ground loop isolators to my used RCA jacks, floated the ground on the PS3 by using a cheater plug and lastly used Toslink for sound from my cable box. The tying of the HDMI cables together had the biggest effect for me. It seems the 705 has not isolated the audio ground from the chassis ground.
Again pay particular attention to the HDMI cables if you have a choice for ultimate clarity use Toslink for all audio.

If it is sub hum turn on your sub cutoff on the sub as well as using your AVR's sub cutoff. This removes noise above the cutoff.

http://www.tvtechnology.com/features...02.16.05.shtml
http://www.tvtechnology.com/features..._Gruszka.shtml

11) My external fan is plugged into my receivers AC outlet and it doesn't turn off when I turn off my receiver! How do I fix this?

This seems to be a rare problem with all of the Onkyo receivers. Not everyone has this problem out of the box however for those who do there is an easy solution to fix it.

*Updated* New Easy way to fix this problem:
Go to you menu Setup and select > 7. Hardware > 5. HDMI > Control > Disable (set this to disable)
If it says enabled your fan wont turn on and off with your receiver so be sure to turn it to disabled.

12) What does matrix mean? How does it help me?

Some of your receiver's DSP's [Digital Signal Processors] have the ability to take the source audio of something your watching and allow it to fill all your surround sound speakers. This is called "Matrix". Whether you own a 6.1, 7.1 channel setup "matrix" allows audio to fill all your channels around your room even if your source audio is 5.1 channels.

All the 7.1 & 6.1 users can really appreciate this; MOST audio is only encoded for 5.1 channels so our far back channels are often dead silent. However, thanks to the use of matrix DSP's it can breath some life into them and put them to good use.

The following DSP's have the ability to Matrix:
Dolby Prologic IIx (PLIIx), THX Surround EX, Dolby Digital EX, DTS ES Matrix

On the Onkyo 705 not all of these DSP's are available for all users. If you have a 7.1 speaker setup ALL DSP's are available to you and enabled in all source scenarios. If you own 6.1 or 5.1 setup, less and less DSP's become available. Please reference your Onkyo 705 manual pages 67-70. The dark gray blocks means those DSP's are only available to 7.1 users, light gray blocks are for 6.1 & 7.1 and white blocks for everyone else.

Each of these matrix DSP's listed above have similar ways of using cross-channel encoding to create the back surround channel audio. These do not become true discrete channels they are for lack of a better term "fake". Many people here on forums prefer PLIIx Movie just because it gives a nice clean balance sound. People who use 6 channel setups can only access PLIIx Movie if the source audio is 2 channels, with 5.1 sources its not. This doesn't have to be the "go to" DSP though so don't feel left out if you have a 6 channel setup there are still other matrix-ing DSP's available to 6 channel users (all of the other ones listed above).

NOTE: A final note some users on this thread don't have subs, because they use large towers as there woofers instead. These users reported they still get access to these DSP's. So whether your have 7.1 or 7, you will get access to everything. If you have 6.1 or 6 you get access to everything the 6.1 users have access to.

13) Why can't I select PLIIx Movie when I have a 6 channel speaker setup?

PLIIx Movie requires a 7 channel speaker setup to become enabled when the "source" audio is 5.1 channels.

With 6 speakers setups you can only access PLIIx Music in all situations. PLIIx Movie is available to you but only but only when the "source" audio is 2 channels. If the source is 5.1 channels, 6 channel speaker users cannot access PLIIx Movie.

If you own a 6 channel speaker setup and still want to gain the advantages of "matrix" a 5.1 source into 6 speakers, PLIIx isn't your only option. Please experiment with THX Surround EX, Dolby Digital EX, and DTS ES Matrix, all of these will also matrix up sources into your 6 channels, they are also available to you with only 6 channels. Please read the question preceding this one for more information on Matrix.

14a) Can the 705 be firmware updated? Is there new firmware available for it?

PLEASE READ THIS LINK FOR THE MOST UP TO DATE INFO ON FIRMWARE UPDATES
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1016297


Currently there is new firmware available for download. However it only updates the DSP's. There is a full firmware update floating around the net you may have read about but nothing has been officially posted on Onyko's site yet. This DSP update fixes the DTS HD MA "gunshot" problem users have reported. If you are a user with a lossless bitstreaming player this update is very important to download to prevent the possibility of damaging your speakers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow420 View Post

The DSP updates are available as a WAV file that you burn to an audio CD and play the file back from a CD player into the #1 optical input. DSP1 is the chip in question, however the DSP updates released also have a newer version of DSP3 compared to what some units shipped with. Other units shipped with the newer DSP3 but still needed the DSP1 update to correct the bitstream bomb. Newer units are shipping with DSPs already all up to date.


The current "DSP" firmware versions are as follows:
DSPS 8051:08214A
DSPS 8052:07518A
DSPS 8053:07820B


If your DSP's are less then the versions listed above then this DSP update will be useful. The 1st DSP is the one that directly effects and solved the DTS HD MA gunshot problem.

How do I know which firmware I have?
1) Turn on Receiver
2) HOLD down the "Display" button and press "Standby" button once.
3) Release the "Display" button.
4) Press the + or – keys to cycle forward and backward through all the firmware display pages.

14b) Is there a way to know which version of firmware my unit has just looking at the serial number on the outside of the box?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinglerxt View Post

In the documentation that was included with the 705 Main Firmware update zip file, in the Hardware Mods folder, they clearly stated the new production models have the update applied and also DO designate the update on the AVRs are follows:

"Application to production:
This measure has already been applied to production.
Mark "P" has been added to the end of serial numbers.
The range of serial numbers of target units are as follows:
e.g. Serial Number: ###1**2345 was manufactured as the 12345th unit of the model"


and then in the table it shows the UPC # is different for the 705:
UPC (MDC,MDD) from 15001st
(meaning anything after 15001 is the new version)

and then another designator (not sure what this is)

EAN (MDT,MMP,MMA,MMO,MMQ,MMK,MMT,MMR):
from 4701st

(meaning anything above 4701 has the new version)


15) What's the difference between PLIIx Movie and PLIIx Music?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

PLIIx Movie processing of 5.1 is only available on 7.1 setups, per Dolby. For 5.1 to 6.1 processing, PLIIx Music mode is your only option... and there's a very good reason that Movie mode isn't available unless you have 7.1.

The difference in the two modes is the way the audio is steered across the surrounds. Much like it does with stereo to 5.1 across the front soundstage, PLIIx Music moves sound that is equal in phase and level between the left and right surrounds to the rear surround while leaving that audio partially in the left and right surrounds to give you a more cohesive rear soundstage. In stereo to 5.1, you have a control called Center Width that controls the blend of the center audio into the left and right speakers. In 5.1 to 6.1, it essentially uses the default width of 3 across the rear speakers.

But here's the big reason this is all you can use on 5.1 to 6.1 conversion: Speakers placed directly behind your head can be subject to a phenomenon that makes that audio sound like it is coming from in front of you because of the way our ears perceive sound. Music mode's blending of the audio into all three surrounds helps prevent this, because partial audio cues are left in the left and right surrounds. It still sounds like it is coming from behind you, but the three source points prevent the reversal phenomenon.

With PLIIx Movie on 7.1, the purpose is to steer the rear audio more precisely than Music mode. The presence of the extra rear surround prevents the phenomenon of the audio seeming to come from in front of you because you now have rear speakers hitting your left and right ears at different levels. This means that Movie mode can steer audio between left and left rear, left rear and right rear, or right rear and rear, in varying levels without any perceived reversal to the front so long as you don't have any speaker phase problems (which is what distance/delay settings line up).

PLIIx Music mode is still available on 7.1 systems and still creates unique rear surrounds... It just leaves more of that surround info in the left and right surrounds as well.

This is part of why rear surround placement is an issue. THX suggests that you place the rear surrounds next to each other on the back wall (though at least you have the THX setting of how far your rear surrounds are apart from each other once you go 7.1). However, Dolby suggests spacing them out across the back wall. Both methods help prevent perceived reversal to front, though THX placement of the speakers depends on its Advanced Speaker Array technology to "build" the rear soundstage, as opposed to steering across the rear soundstage being more dependant on speaker placement on a system set up to Dolby specs.

While we're on the subject, the two PLIIx modes also work well on Dolby EX tracks, whether on 6.1 or 7.1 systems. The way Dolby EX works is by steering all sound equal in phase and amplitude between the left and right surrounds to the rear surround (or rear surrounds in a 7.1 system). On a 6.1 system, the advantage to using PLIIx Music mode on a EX track is that it will spread rear surround info between all three surrounds, helping prevent perceived reversal. On a 7.1 system, the advantage to using either PLIIx Music or Movie is that it will create unique audio for each rear surround instead of the monaural EX info just being copied to each rear surround, which results in better steering across the 4 surrounds without losing the intended rear audio present in the EX mix.


16) How do I install banana plugs on this receiver?

Banana plugs install into the speaker terminals on the back of your receiver. The main purpose of these are allow for quick and easy installation or easy maintenance. Once you have installed the plugs onto the wires you can simply push these plugs into the back of your speaker terminals on the receiver. Please note that European models of the Onkyo 705 have caps over the ends of the speaker terminals to prevent the usage of Banana plugs. The reason they prevent you from doing this in Europe, is the banana plug shape is very similar to the shape of European 220v electrical outlet plugs. They don't want people accidentally electrocuting themselves plugging their banana plugs into the wall electrical socket instead of their receiver. (which children playing around might do) Therefore, if you live and Europe and own this receiver your safety laws prevent you from going this route.

Outside of easy/clean installation there are no gained advantages of using banana plugs. You will not hear any audible difference with or without these plugs. This mostly just comes down to the aesthetics.

Some wires companies (like monster cable) come pre-installed with banana plugs and rubber Y-Shape wire boots on pre cut speaker wire lengths. There are 2 kinds of "do it yourself" Banana plugs sold by many companies; the solder type and the screw type. These are installed onto the ends of stripped wire, the advantage is you can install them on any custom length of wire you choose.

Below are these 2 types sold by Monoprice. Typically you have to use between 12-18 gauge wire for banana plugs since there are limitations in the cuff size. Solder type banana plugs do not always require solder to install on a wire, but may be helpful to reduce resistance and make for a stronger grip. Below is a link showing you how to do it without solder. Installing 12 gauge wire on a "solder type" banana plug is possible but requires a little more stripping further up the wire to get them to insert far enough up the cuff to grip down on the screw.

Here is a link on how to install the solder type of banana plug onto your wire.
http://www.monoprice.com/manual/INST...NA%20PLUGS.pdf

The screw type of banana plug are self explanatory you just insert the stripped wire into the eyelet and screw it down.

Banana Plugs:
Solder Type: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Screw Type: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Here is a picture of Monoprice "Solder type" Banana Plugs installed on my Onkyo 705: (please note I didn't have to use solder and I used up to 12 gauge wire here)

Click to Enlarge


17) How do I turn off my TV speakers through the onkyo receiver?

HDMI SETUPS:
If you are sending an HDMI signal from your receiver to your TV you can turn off the audio coming out of your TV speakers via the options menu.

From the receiver menu select:
7. Hardware Setups > 5. HDMI > HDMI Audio Out (Turn this to "OFF")

By turning hdmi audio out to "off" you can stop the audio signal from leaving via the hdmi cable after it goes through the receiver. Only your receiver will play back audio (not your tv).

OPTICAL/ANALOG SETUPS:
If you are hooked up via optical or analog sources and route your video through the receiver you can basically just pass video from the receiver to the tv and don't pass any audio cable to it (this will block any audio going into the tv from the video source).

If you do not route your video through the receiver, just your audio gets routed to the receiver; depending on your setup you may still hear audio coming out of your TV. You still have other options if this happens. Some TV's have a "turn off TV speakers" option in the television menu (consults your TV's manual). In the event your TV does not have a way to shut the speakers off, you can always turn down the TV's volume to absolute zero, if worst comes to worst, this works just fine.

18) Why can't I see my Custom title on the Game/Tv input display?

This is a minor bug that I hope gets fixed in the 1st major firmware release. However, its not fully dysfunctional you can still see your custom label. Be sure you set "custom" display instead of default above the edited name you entered in the menus.

Now when you switch to Game/Tv it will still display the word "Game/TV" until the signal kicks in. Then after a brief pause it switches over to your custom title label. This is unlike all the other custom titles, that are visible as you switch through the inputs. Also, be sure to hit the "display" button on the receiver remote to cycle around between the title and info displays. (Try that technique if you are still unable to see the custom title display.) This really inst broken since it still works, but not being able to see it immediately is a minor annoyance.

NOTE: I have done a full factory reset and this doesn't fix this problem.. so save yourself the time and energy of redoing Audyssey, AV Sync, listneing modes, retyping name tags, etc etc.

19) How many video sources can the 705 support and are there any tips for assigning them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow420 View Post

Only 5 of the "channels" on the 705 can have a video signal assigned to them, being DVD, CABLE/SAT, GAME/TV, VCR and AUX. The other channels like CD and TAPE can only have audio signals although a note here is that if you change from a video source to these, it will continue to show the old video source, and overlay the audio from the newly selected input. So you can listen to a CD over the cable picture, for instance.

Of these 5 inputs, the AUX input has a limitation with assignments in that when assigning digital audio inputs (for optical/coax SPDIF) it is "locked" to FRONT (the front optical input). This is not so nice if you are wanting to hook up a permanent 5th video component, and only have AUX left - unless you like having an optical cable sticking out the front of the receiver all the time!

Onkyo redeems themselves a little here though, because if you assign a HDMI Video Input to AUX channel the Digital Input audio assignment can then be changed between FRONT and HDMI, meaning you can put a HDMI source on AUX with no cables poking out the front. So as things get tight, ship that PS3 (or whatever) off onto the AUX channel

20) Should I be cautious when playing DTS HD MA audio via lossless bitstream?

There was an issue an with older owners of the 705, when a user played a DTS HD MA encoded movie via lossless bitstream, it would create a random gunshot noise with certain movies. (other receiver brands had this problem as well). The gunshot noise produced could be damaging to your speakers. This was since cured in newer versions of this receivers DSP updates. If you are a new buyer of the 705 you likely have the latest firmware pre installed. However, all users should double check their DSP firmware just to make sure they have the latest update before proceeding with bitstreaming DTS HD MA into the receiver.

Please look at the "1st" DSP version on your receiver, the 1st DSP firmware version is the one that effects this issue.
How do I know which firmware I have?
1) Turn on Receiver
2) HOLD down the "Display" button and press "Standby" button once.
3) Release the "Display" button.
4) Press the + or – keys to cycle forward and backward through all the firmware display pages.

If your DSP is less this version "DSPS 8051:08214A" you are vulnerable to the DTS gunshot problem and a DSP firmware update will help you.

If you do need to update your firmware please refer to Question 14 above for instruction on where and how to install the firmware.

21) Why do I get audio pauses (drop outs) when I change sources or the DSP changes? Can I fix this?

The pause that you hear is the time it takes for your receivers DSP to go into effect after it changes from one DSP to another. There is NO way around that.

HOWEVER! There is a solution that will stop all the pauses you get from every single commercial/channel/show change. The solution is assigning listening modes to all point to 1 single common DSP (your favorite DSP)... Set these listening modes all to the same DSP....(2 channel/Dolby Digital/Analog-Pcm/DTS) if you assign all of these to the same DSP (example PLIIx Movie) you will greatly reduce all those silent pauses you get. Since your DSP never has to dance around every time a new commercial/show comes on. Commercials/Shows/Movies are all are going to have different ways the audio was mastered and if you don't assign all the DSP to a common denominator you will drive yourself nuts with all those pauses. You literally you could get a pause every time a new commercial/show/movie comes on if you don't do this.

Please note that just because your manually assigning all these listening modes to the same DSP, it doesn't prevent you from changing the DSP on the fly while you watch a movie/show (via the remote)... you can always change your DSP's whenever you get ready. All this does is keeps all the commercial/shows/movies using a common DSP so you can avoid the silent pauses.

IMPORTANT SIDE NOTE: Some users who do not have 7.1 channels are not able to gain access to the full list of DSP's for all listening modes. If you have 5.1 channels you may have a hard time assigning your favorite DSP to all the above listed listening modes. 5.1 channel users are still going to get pauses if they are not able to assign the exact same DSP to all listening modes. 7.1 channel users can assign PLIIx to all the above listed listening modes and get no pauses as a result.

◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

● BLU RAY & HD DVD FAQ

Questions asked most by people who own Blu Ray or HD DVD players and how they relate to receivers like the 705 and others receiver like the 705.

○ HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS (HD DVD & BLU RAY)

1) Why don’t I see True HD and DTS HD MA light up on my receiver when I play Blu Ray and HD DVD movies?

If you own a some older series HD players, for example Blu Ray players (Ex. Playstation 3, Samsung 1200) / HD DVD player Toshiba A2, A20); those players are NOT designed to output in lossless bitstream (Hard to think those are outdated technology already but for this kind of usage they are!). If you own one of these players its decoding these HD audio formats internally (instead of sending the signal to the receiver to decode). When using these older players you should set your player to output in PCM. It will send this PCM data "predecoded" to your receiver and your receiver doesn't have to do anything but play it. Therefore, your receiver will not show True HD or DTS HD MA light up (because it’s already been predecoded inside your player already) You ARE still getting True HD/DTS HD MA even though your player decodes it you just are not having to use your receiver to do the decoding.

Only players like the ones outlined below in, HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS> Question 5, send out lossless bitstream of "both" True HD and DTS HD MA to allow your receiver to decode it. Yes, if you own those players, you will see True HD/DTS HD MA display on the front of your receiver. These players allow your receiver to decode when your set them to bitstream output.

2) Is there a difference with letting my player decode vs letting my receiver decode?

Its a topic that has seen much heated debate in more threads that I can count on these forums.

The simple answer is no. A more complex answer is.. on the True HD side of things there isn’t much difference since most players decode True HD format inside the player. However, DTS HD MA has been the tricky format many players leave out of the decoding equation.

UPDATE: As of Playstation 3 firmware version 2.30 which is out now, the PS3 can internally decode DTS HD MA tracks and this is no longer an inconvenience for PS3 owners.

If you own a lossless bitstream player that send lossless bitstream out and allow your player to decode DTS HD MA on the receiver (like the ones outlined below in, HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS> Question 5), then YES.. for those movies the audio will sound better. (But even then, if you own one of those new players, it can decode those formats internally as well.) In the end it’s a novelty to allow your receiver to decode vs letting your player decode. If there are any improvements to be heard, they are slight, not vast.

3) Whats lossless (raw) bitstream? Isn't all bitstreaming the same?

The simple answer is lossless bitstream allows your receiver to decode HD audio formats (True HD & DTS HD MA). Lossless Bitstream is also often referred to as Raw Bitstream.

If you have a player that does lossless bitstream then receivers like the 705 will be able to decode True HD and DTS HD MA and you will see those lights turn on the display in the front of the receiver.

If your player does not have lossless bitstream then you are sending a lossy signal to your receiver and allowing your receiver to decode that lossy signal. These are not True HD and DTS HD MA these are lossy core tracks that are provided along with the Hi Def signal for people who dont have a Hi Def audio player or a Hi Def receiver. This is less then ideal audio setting for people who own a 705.

Before the advent of Hi Definition audio formats if you owned a nice receiver bitstream was the way to make your audio shine. It allowed your receiver to decode formats that were not available if the player was set to PCM. After Hi Def audio there was a period of time that many players came out that only internally decoded these Hi Def formats and didn't allow lossless bitstream. Now only recently (with the latest players ONLY) bitstream has restored its former glory. With lossless bitstream once again you get to allow your receiver to do the decoding with no loss in audio quality when doing so. The only difference is a long time ago bitstream was the BEST way to go if you had a nice receiver. In this day and age with the latest lossless players and receivers like the 705 you can pick PCM or Bitstream and not notice much of a difference either way, the end results are similar.

4) I can't hear the audio in the special features section of my Blu Ray or HD DVD movies or any of the menu sound effects! How do I fix this?

If you own a lossless bitstream player (like the ones outlined below in, HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS> Question 5) and have the player hooked up via HDMI and set the player to bitstream output, to allow your receiver decode HD audio formats, the problem is you cannot hear secondary audio tracks.

When you set your player to lossless bitstream output; you gain the advantage of allowing your receiver to decode HD audio formats instead of them being decoded inside your player (as you already know). However, the down side is you lose the ability to hear secondary audio tracks. These are typically can be menu sound effects and or special feature audio tracks found as bonus content on your discs. Unfortunately, the way to get these sounds to be heard again is set you player back to PCM output and allow your player to decode the audio again. This will allow you to hear those secondary audio tracks again. This happens on both Blu Ray and HD DVD. If you are a kind of user who enjoys the bonus content on your discs then you will be stuck switching back and forth between pcm and bitstream if you want the best of both worlds.

5) Does my player output lossless bitstream?

I will slowly compile a list of new players here that output lossless bitstream. All these players listed below allow your 705 receiver to decode HD audio formats (True HD and DTS HD MA), when the user sets these players output to "bitstream" you will see the appropriate decoding DSP display on the front of your receiver saying either True HD or DTS HD MA.

If you know of a new player coming out that isn't on this list that will support lossless bitstream please let me know i will add it to the list and give you credit for it in contributions section. Thanks In Advance!

Players that support lossless bitstream of both True HD and DTS HD MA formats:
LG BH200 [Blu Ray & HD DVD] True HD/DTS HD MA with latest firmware update
Samsung BD-UP5000 [Blu Ray & HD DVD] Lossless Bistreaming of True HD/DTS HD MA with latest firmware update (1.3 or later)
Samsung BDP-1400 [Blu Ray]
Samsung BD-P1500 [Blu Ray]
Panasonic DMP-BD30 [Blu Ray]
Philips BDP7200 [Blu Ray]
*NEW* Panasonic DMP-BD 35 [Blu Ray]
*NEW* Panasonic DMP-BD 55 [Blu Ray]
Denon DVD-3800BDCI [Blu Ray]
Denon DVD-2500BTCI [Blu Ray]
Pioneer Elite BDP-95FD [Blu Ray]
Toshiba A35 [HD DVD]
Toshiba XA2 [HD DVD] (Only if you have firmware v2.7 or higher)
Onkyo DV-HD805 [HD DVD]

If your player is NOT on this list, then your player does not support lossless bitstream.
For these users who do not have a lossless bitstream player keep your player set to Linear PCM output when playing (Blu Ray or HD DVD movies). This allows those formats to decode in your player and be sent as lossless PCM to your receiver. You get the same benefit as the lossless bitstream crowd if you do!

The following only applies to people who DO NOT have a lossless bitstream player:

There is only 2 instances when you want to turn off PCM and switch to your lossy bitstream output setting.
A) If you are playing older Standard Definition (SD) movies, it still gives you a benefit of setting your player to bitstream so you gain ability to decode Dolby Digital and DTS on your receiver.
B) Depending on your player type it may not support certain HD audio formats (ex. DTS HD MA) and in those instances the player replaces that audio with a lossy core track instead of the HD audio track. Because of this, it that may sound better by setting your player to lossy bitstream.
UPDATE: As of Playstation 3 firmware version 2.30 which is out now, the PS3 can internally decode DTS HD MA tracks and this is no longer an inconvenience for PS3 owners.


Educate yourself the best you can on the preceding FAQ topics listed above for more info and you will know the situations in which to use the correct settings.

6) Is there a list of the best quality soundtracks from movies?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinglerxt View Post

Check here for the full list of movies:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=760714

They list it in this order from best to worst quality audio:
1) LPCM (uncompressed) 24-bit/96kHz
2) DTS-HD Master Audio (lossless compression) 24-bit/96kHz
3) Dolby TrueHD (lossless compression) 24-bit/96kHz
4) LPCM (uncompressed) 24-bit/48kHz
5) DTS-HD Master Audio (lossless compression) 24-bit/48kHz
6) Dolby TrueHD (lossless compression) 24-bit/48kHz
7) Dolby TrueHD (lossless compression) 20-bit/48kHz
8) LPCM (uncompressed) 16-bit/48kHz
9) DTS-HD Master Audio (lossless compression) 16-bit/48kHz
10) Dolby TrueHD (lossless compression) 16-bit/48kHz
11) DTS-HD High Resolution Audio (lossy compression) 24-bit/96kHz
12) DTS-HD High Resolution Audio (lossy compression) 24-bit/48kHz
13) DTS (lossy compression) 24-bit/48kHz
14) DTS (lossy compression) 16-bit/48kHz
15) Dolby Digital AC3 (lossy compression)

To date, there are only 4 discs that have the highest 3 soundtracks shown

○ BLU RAY QUESTIONS

1) I own a Playstation 3 and want to get the best sound possible with my Blu Ray movies what should my settings be?

Please be sure to read through Questions 1 and 2 in the "HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS:" secrtion (above) to get a fuller understanding of how the Playstation 3 and other hi def players decode audio. I will assume you are up to speed with that information in the things I am talking about next.

For nearly all situations setting your Playstation 3 to PCM output is going to be the best setting for great HD audio. When you select PCM during movie play back your receiver will likely say Multichannel on the front display (if you didn't change listening modes). Multichannel is normal and YES, you are getting True HD and uncompressed PCM audio playback (your PS3 is doing the decoding work, not the receiver, this is why the receiver gives a generic read out.)

Turning on PCM:
To select Linear PCM on the PS3; Play a Blu Ray movie then during playback of the movie, click the "Triangle" button, then select the "AV Settings" icon from the popup menu (looks like 2 sliders), "Audio Output Options" you can select (Linear PCM) or (Bitstream).

5.1 Home Theater Setups:
If you only have a 5.1 speaker set up for your home theater you never have to change your receivers DSP to anything other then Multichannel, this will be your best setting forever on the Onkyo 705 itself. ALL Blu Ray movies are at the very minimum made for 5.1 audio. However, please note; that if you play older Standard Definition (SD) movies, it still gives you a benefit of setting your player to bitstream so you gain ability to decode Dolby Digital and DTS on your receiver.

6.1 & 7.1 Home Theater Setups:
If you own a 6.1 or 7.1 speaker setup for your home theater and you look on the back of your blu ray disc box and the movie says 5.1 channel and you want to "matrix" the audio up to 6.1 or 7.1 channels, you need to switch your DSP to something like PLIIx (anything with the x or ex monikers will do this... ex. Thx Surround EX, Dolby Digital EX and DTS ES Matrix). These will fill in those other (1 or 2) extra speakers even though the sound track is only 5.1. If you leave it on multichannel and the original track is only 5.1 it will stay at 5.1. If you have a Blu ray movie that has a soundtrack create in 6.1 or 7.1 channels (it will say on back of the box) then you may choose to leave it on multichannel and just let the original soundtrack do its job filling all your channels.

What format are you getting? How many channels?
Playstation 3 will send up to 7.1 channels of audio over hdmi. Your receiver is never going to tell you this is happening. The only way you will know is if you click info on the PS3 you will see what kind of audio it is decoding internally. To find out what audio format and how many channels your PS3 is decoding click the "Select" button during movie playback, at the top you will see what its doing. (Ex. Dolby TrueHD 7.1 Ch. 48Hz 4.5 Mbps)

DTS HD Master Audio & the Playstation 3:
UPDATE: As of Playstation 3 firmware version 2.30 which is out now, the PS3 can internally decode DTS HD MA tracks and this is no longer an inconvenience for PS3 owners.

Now that the PS3 can internally decode DTS HD MA you want to keep your ps3 set to Linear PCM for best hi def audio quality of this format.

DTS Core (The "Lossy" DTS signal PS3 owners get if you set your player to bitstream):
At the heart of DTS HD Master Audio signal is an additional DTS Surround Sound Core track, this is the lossy version you are hearing when you play back DTS MA movies on your Playstation 3 using bitstream. DTS Core is actually very similar to the old school standard DTS signal (only up to 1.5 Mbps max). This is a far cry from the bandwidth of the Hi Def audio formats. DTS Core is also limited to a maximum of 6.1 channels only so you can't get 7.1 channel playback when DTS Core is in effect. Your forced to use your receiver to matrix that extra channel up to 7.1. Before the DTS HD MA patch on the ps3 this used to be what we heard all the time for dts hd ma movies. Now just be sure to keep you ps3 set to linear pcm output to get the hi def full version of dts hd ma track.

For more information on DTS Core please visit this link http://www.dtsonline.com/dts-hd/bett...d-tomorrow.php

2) Why won't my Playstation 3 allow my receiver to decode HD audio formats for me? Will it ever be able to?

Please be sure to read through Questions 1 and 2 in the "HI DEFINITION AUDIO QUESTIONS:" section above as well as the question preceding this one. You will need to have an advanced understanding of bitstream vs lossless bitsream vs PCM, also how HD audio formats getting decoded in the player vs the receiver.

Even though Playstation 3 is HDMI 1.3 device it doesn't mean its privy to the full list of 1.3a spec of capabilities. Sony cut a very early deal for a proprietary version of the Silicon Image Vastlane chipset (the 9132). The Vastlane chipset is the brain of HD audio and HD video used among many companies. After the PS3 came out Silicon Image released a (possibly revised) public version of that chipset used in Ps3, this newer chipset is the Vastlane 9134. These latest versions are used for players such as Toshiba A35 and Samsung BDP1400. Even to this day a year later, the new ps3's still use the older proprietary 9132 model.

The PS3 was the 1st 1.3 hdmi kid on the block. The Vastlane 9132 chip was made proprietary for Sony to use in the PS3 and is not sold to the public (other companies). Also, its "official" specs are not listed for the public on any known website. However, If you read the financial report from Silicon Image from the time frame (google this) when the playstation 3 came out you see the Ps3 chipset listed with specs (simple specs, but specs never the less). These specs do not mention handling of the latest HD audio formats at all.

To the best of anyones knowledge here on AVS forums and around the net this is the breakdown of this series of Vastlane Chips

SI Vastline 9132: (Gaming Transmitter) Supports Deep Color but not the latest high-quality audio formats.
SI Vastline 9133: (Dual Input Receiver) Enables HDTV's to display Deep Color but does not support the latest high-quality audio formats.
SI Vastline 9134: (Dual Input Transmitter) Same abilities as the 9133 with additional support for the latest high-quality audio formats.

Here are screenshots of a PS3 ripped apart showing the 9132 chipset http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost....4&postcount=46

The SI Vastlane 9134 is whats getting used in these new players (like BDP1400 for example) Here is a screenshot of the Samsung BDP 1400's Vastlane chip http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost....9&postcount=32 as you can see its a 9134.

So does this all mean PS3 can NEVER output lossless bitstream audio?

No one can definitively say Ps3 will or wont be able give us lossless bitstreaming in the future all we know is right now it Can't. Also, there are not even the least bit of rumors from sony that it will ever be able to.

The firmware debate:
If Sil 9132 can't do lossless bitstreaming due to hardware limitations there is much debate is out there over whether or not ps3 can be firmware/software patched to reprogram the Silicon Image vastlane 9132. Honestly, no one knows. If Sony can find some slick software approach to get around this who knows (which no one is even sure is possible with this kinda of chip). I am sure it would require a lot of time and effort and why would Sony invest all that money when the general public doesn't even know about HD audio formats much less wanting to allow your receiver to decode them vs the player. This is a confusing topics for seasoned pros much less the general consumer.

The hardware debate:
Some users argue that sony could simply install a 9134 in the latest units if the old 9132 couldn't do lossless bitstream. They conclude that since they don't install the 9134 in the newest ps3's, then the 9132 must be able to do lossless bitstream. Thats quite a leap in logical thinking as to why sony isn't updating that chip. First, I dont think sony has a marketing requirement to allow users to have lossless bitstreaming its not a major selling point of the PS3. Also there could be other factors; It's possible the 9134 may not even be usable in the ps3 in the same was the 9132 is being used. If that was the case, Sony would have to contract out the development of an entirely new and updated chipset from Silicon Image. This would cost so much I am sure the cons out weight the benefits.

My thoughts on all this are; if the SI 9132 had functionality and it was there to turn on, then we would likely already have it. Especially, when they enabled bitstream output in that patch few months back. That combined with the 9132's early release, I got a strong hunch that chip simply can not do it. I would say that if we don't see lossless audio bitstreaming come with the patch that gives us DTS HD MA decoding, we likely will never see it. But still, no rumors of lossless bitstream. (Update: The 2.30 DTS HD MA audio firmware is now out.. and still no sign of a lossless bitstream being made available on the PS3) If there isn't a huge demand for lossless bitstreaming why ever invest the manpower to figure it out.


3) Is there a way to A/V Sync both movies and games on the PS3 so that it doesn't have a dual personality?

PLEASE READ: (The following statements and recommendations are only applicable if you are experiencing dual sync issues on your PS3. If you don't experience this dual sync issues on your PS3, just please skip over this section)

Please be sure to read the "OWNER FAQ" question > "2) Why is the lip sync on everything I watch way out of timing? Is there any way to fix this?", further up the post to learn how to A/V Sync properly on the 705 receiver before or after reading this section. If you don't know how to Sync yoru receiver properly it will be hard to every get the timing perfect.

Outlined below are certain tweaks that require extra work before you watch movies or play games. However, the end result is perfect audio sync while playing games or playing movies for those willing to go that extra mile. Below are 4 options. My personal favorite is 3, depending on you setup and tastes you could easily use option 1 or 2 or 4. Option 1 and 2 require the use of extra wires to achieve the end result. The idea with option 1 and 2 are to use two separate source input buttons on the receiver and tweak the A/V delay perfect for each of them. One for ps3 setting for movies and one for ps3 games. Using pure hdmi for blu ray movies (in all 3 options) and using combinations of optical audio for playing games (for options 1 and 2). In addition, to switching the source input on the receiver you need to tweak menu options on receiver and or ps3 to get it to work for both input source on the receiver. Because games don't use the same kind of uncompressed audio tracks that blu ray movies use, using an optical cable for audio is a viable option that will still sound great. Option 4 is very easy to set up and you get the best of both world and going hdmi all the way. However, you lose 2 hdmi in slots on the receiver and you have the cost of buying a hdmi switch.

Having said that I am sure you realize this requires effort. Option 2 is by far requires the most effort. I prefer option 3 because at the end of the day my patience is worn pretty thin and last thing I want to do is fiddle with silly menus. I would consider option 4 if I didnt have to lose 2 hdmi in slots on the receiver.

Anyhow, good luck and I hope these help!


Option 1:

HDMI (for movies) vs HDMI video+Optical Audio (for games)
I would like to thank "eliwankenobi" on these forums for coming up with the option 1 concept. You already know how to use hdmi through the receiver and ps3. Just keep doing that the way you always did for movies. On the video game side you going to use a combo of optical cable and hdmi video only. For the examples below I will use the following receiver inputs on my 705 (for your setup use any 2 that you chose) I will use "DVD" input for the ps3 blu ray movies and "Game/TV" input for the ps3 games. After your have set everything up please be sure to sync each separate source up using the techniques listed above in the main topic. For this option you will need to own an optical (toslink) cable.

On 705 Receiver Menu: (change this every time playing MOVIES or GAMES)
In the 705 menus you can assign an optical input combined with a hdmi video input... then in the ps3 menu go to audio options and select audio output and select optical... now you can hear optical audio from ps3 with the same hdmi video input.
1. Input/Output Assign > HDMI Input > (unassign the ps3's hdmi input from your old source and reassign it to the new source your going to use) example: if DVD is where you have your ps3....(DVD: IN 3)... turn this off "---" Then reassign it to the new input your going to use like Game/TV: IN3. Just remember to switch this feature back and forth when you switch your receiver input source button from DVD to GAME/TV or you will not see anything.

On 705 Receiver Menu: (change this 1 time, during 1st time setup)
Another 705 menu tweak(you only need to set this portion up one time ever) Assign optical input to the same input you are going to use for the ps3 "game" input .. again as an example ill use Game/TV.
1. Input/Output Assign > Digital Input > Game/TV: OPT 1 (or OPT 2 whichever you use) You never have to set this feature again.

On PS3 menu: (change this every time you play GAMES)
Go to the "Settings" menu on the XMB and scroll down to "sound settings".. then select "audio output settings" ...then select Digital Out (optical) ...then check mark the following options (dolby digital 5.1 ch, dts 5.1 ch) the confirm. Now you have optical audio output you can use for video games. When you want to watch movies you need to switch back to pure HDMI output again read below to do that.

On PS3 menu: (change this every time you play MOVIES)
Go to the "Settings" menu on the XMB and scroll down to "sound settings".. then select "audio output settings" ...then select HDMI ...then select "Automatic" ...then confirm. Now you have HDMI audio output again you can use for movies.

PROS:
-You are not degrading video performance since you use hdmi video for both games and movies.
-2 Separate input buttons on your receiver can each be manually A/V delay tuned to perfection and you never have to change the sync again.

CONS:
-This receiver doesn't allow you to assign the same hdmi input to 2 different input selections. Because of this, you will need to shift HDMI input from source A to source B on the receiver every time you want to play a game or watch a movie back and forth.
-Also, you cant escape having to go into ps3 menus to flip it from hdmi audio out to optical out (and back again.)

Option 2:
HDMI (for movies) vs. Component + Optical (for games)
It seems some people in the ps3 side of the forums here on AVS use this option a lot for getting dual sync correction. For the examples below I will use the following receiver inputs on my 705 (for your setup use any 2 that you chose) I will use "DVD" input for the ps3 blu ray movies and "Game/TV" input for the ps3 games. After your have set everything up please be sure to sync each separate source up using the techniques listed above in the main topic. For this option you will need to own an optical (toslink) cable. Also, you will need to AV MULTI SCART plug that came with your ps3 (its the analog A/V cables). However, if you get serious about this option I would recommend you buy the AV MULTI SCART "Component" cables so the graphics look better and you can pull off higher resolutions. The "component" cables are sold seperately.

Once you have the AV SCART + Optical cables plugged into the back of the ps3 (yes you can have both hdmi + optical + AV SCART all plugged in at the same time.

On PS3 menu: (change this every time you play GAMES)
Go to the "Settings" menu on the XMB and scroll down to "sound settings".. then select "audio output settings" ...then select Digital Out (optical) ...then check mark the following options (dolby digital 5.1 ch, dts 5.1 ch) the confirm. Now you have optical audio output you can use for video games. When you want to watch movies you need to switch back to pure HDMI output again read below to do that.

On PS3 menu: (change this every time you play GAMES)
Go to the "Settings" menu on the XMB and scroll down to "display settings".. then select "video output settings" ...then select "AV MULTI/SCART" .. then select y Pb/Cb Pr/CR (if you have the component A/V cables)... then confirm changes. Please note that the second you confirm changes it will switch the video output from HDMI to the AV so you are going to lose your video signal.. switch over on the receiver input to the button you assign to games.

On PS3 menu: (change this every time you play MOVIES)
Go to the "Settings" menu on the XMB and scroll down to "sound settings".. then select "audio output settings" ...then select HDMI ...then select "Automatic" ...then confirm. Now you have HDMI audio output again you can use for movies.

On PS3 menu: (change this every time you play MOVIES)
Go to the "Settings" menu on the XMB and scroll down to "display settings".. then select "video output settings" ...then select "HDMI" .. then select Automatic... then confirm changes. Please note that the second you confirm changes it will switch the video output from AV to the HDMI so you are going to lose your video signal.. switch over on the receiver input to the button you assign to movies.

The receiver only requires a 1 time menu option tweak.

On 705 Receiver Menu: (change this 1 time, during 1st time setup)
Assign optical input to the same input you are going to use for the ps3 "game" input .. again as an example ill use Game/TV.
1. Input/Output Assign > Digital Input > Game/TV: OPT 1 (or OPT 2 whichever you use) You never have to set this feature again.

If you are going to route HDMI through the receiver and convert it to HDMI out (warning you will downgrade your video to a maximum of 720p if you do this.
1. Input/Output Assign > Component Video Input > Game/TV: IN 1 (or IN2, IN3 whichever you use) You never have to set this feature again.

The alternative is just route the component cables directly to your tv and the audio optical cable to your receiver.

PROS:
-2 Separate input buttons on your receiver can each be manually A/V delay tuned to perfection and you never have to change the sync again.
-Only option that doesn't require changing menus on receiver.

CONS:
-No receiver menu tweaking, but arguable more menu tweaking on the ps3 menu side.
-Some tv's don't accept 1080p video over component so a few games wont be there best.
-Some people prefer only 1 hdmi cable to there tv, if you route component through the receiver you get downgraded to 720p.

Option 3
A/V Sync Changing
After experimenting with option 1 and 2 to see how and if they work while writing this FAQ, I realized there is a very simple alternative and thats where this option 3 came from. This requires no special wires or special setups. But sadly still does requires a lil menu tweaking every time you want to swap between games or movies. But its the least tweaking of all 3 options.

This option is just simply to go to the Receivers menu
4. Source Setup > A/V sync > (and adjust the numbers)

I recommend you sync perfectly to a blu ray movie.. then write down what the ms timing was on paper somewhere. Then play a game and sync up perfectly for that and again write that info down (on the same sheet of paper ) Now you dont need to mess with the cabling.. HDMI for both the A/V for both games and movies. All you need to do is just reference (or memorize) those 2 sets of numbers and flip it to the correct setting just before you watch a movie or play a game.

PROS:
-Sync-ing is correct for both movies and games.
-The least amount of menu tweaking only requires 1 single change (quickest option)
-Only option that doesn't require changing menus on PS3
-No fear of audio or video degrading since you are using hdmi for both games and movies.

CONS:
-You still need to mess with those damned menus!!!

Option 4
Dual HDMI cables from the ps3 using an HDMI switcher
Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow420 View Post

One other option (which once again has some drawbacks) would be to use an HDMI switcher device, to run the PS3 into both the DVD and GAME/TV inputs (obviously only one is switched through at a time). Assuming you get a remote controlled switcher, it wouldn't be hard to have your harmony (or onkyo remote) control the switching.

PROS:

-Can have DVD and GAME inputs set with individual lip sync
-No menu switching on PS3 (as both inputs are using HDMI audio) or onkyo (as DVD and GAME are using separate HDMI inputs)

CONS:
-Have to spend $$ on switcher
-Uses up 2 HDMI inputs instead of 1 on your receiver


○ HD DVD QUESTIONS

1) Does the XA2 player output lossless bitstream?

Only if downloaded the latest firmware version 2.7 or higher.



▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼
▼▼ FAQ CONTINUED IN NEXT POST▼▼
▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼

Onkyo TX SR705 FAQ

BLU RAY ◊ 196 Movies
XBOX 360 ◊ 53 Games
PLAYSTATION 3 ◊ 25 Games
woots is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
woots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: ATLANTA, GA
Posts: 694
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

● AUDYSSEY/SETUP FAQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post


1. How should I place my speakers or prepare my room?

How much room preparation you do is up to you. Ideally, you want to give Audyssey the best possible starting point with which to work, meaning you want room acoustics/speaker placement to be as close to ideal as possible before running MultEQ XT. That doesn't necessarily mean that you have to do acoustic treatments/bass traps/etc. that people do for their dedicated home theaters. Several things to note are:

A) If your main speakers are placed very far apart, you may want to tow them in toward the center listening position slightly. A good rule of thumb is to imagine an 80-90 degree cone of sound coming from your front speakers' tweeters and angle them so that cone of sound covers your entire listening area. The dispersion patterns of different speakers will vary so you might get better/worse off-axis response than this, but this should be a good start.

B) Imagine the reflection of the sound from your front speakers as if you were playing a game of pool. Visualize where the sound is reflecting off of the side walls by imagining a line from your main listening position to the wall then to the speaker. If there's a hard surface/window at that point and you're able to, try to ensure that drapes, a cloth/canvas picture or something is at that point to disrupt the reflection. Doing this will help prevent muddying of sound from reflections and let you hear more of the direct sound from the speaker. Towing the front speakers in helps with this as well.

C) If your center channel sits more than a foot or so below ear level, angle it up so that it points toward ear level at your listening position. This should give you better dialogue clarity and will give Audyssey a better chance of EQ'ing that speaker.

D) If you are placing your subwoofer in a corner, try to keep it a few inches from either wall. If you are placing it further into the room, keep it a few inches away from the front wall and try to place it at roughly 1/3 of the total room width away from the side wall to prevent cancellation due to standing waves.

E) If your seats are close to your back wall, pull them forward a bit. Putting the listening position close to room boundaries can give you a huge gain in subwoofer response and give you rear wall reflections that no EQ'ing can work around.

For more info on general setup tips, see this forum's "Setting up your home theater 101" thread here.

2. Do I need a tripod to run MultEQ XT?

Yes - no exceptions. Placing the mic in the seats not only alters the detected speaker distance, but will prevent Audyssey from EQ'ing correctly. Holding the microphone will create noise (i.e. breathing/moving) from the user holding it, screw up bass equalization due to the hand's contact with the mic, and generally wreak havoc on equalization due to your body being behind the mic. The only correct way to run MultEQ XT is with the mic mounted on a tripod, which you should be able to find at any photo store for less than $20.

3. How should I place the microphone to run Audyssey MultEQ XT?

Once you have the mic on a tripod, make sure the tripod is raised so that the mic is slightly above the headrest of your seats to prevent the seating itself from affecting equalization. Ideally, you want the mic to rest roughly where your head would be when seated. However, if this puts the mic close to the back wall, pull the mic forward so that it is at least 12"-18" from the back wall. This gives you your first position for running MultEQ XT.

The second position should be at least 3 feet to your right when facing the front of the room, still with the mic at head level and above the headrests.

The third position should be at least 3 feet to the left of the center listening position.

Positions 4-8 depend entirely on how your seating is situated. For positions 4-6, try to mirror positions 1-3 but with the mic about 3 feet further into the room. This will give MultEQ XT a better idea of how your subwoofer responds further from room boundaries and will result in an overall better equalization of bass response. The 705 user manual has diagrams of placement positions for different types of seating configurations if you have a unique seating placement.

4. Should I be in the room while Audyssey runs?

Audyssey equalizes for the room. If you're in the room, and especially if you're in a different position for each reading, your presence in the room alters the acoustics. Ideally, you want to place the mic, step outside of the room with the remote, and trigger the next reading from there, moving back into the room only to change mic positions.

5. What target curve does Audyssey use on the 705?

Audyssey products offer three target curves: Flat, Front and Audyssey. The Front curve is not available on Onkyo receivers. The Audyssey curve, which is the default for the 705, uses a slight rolloff of the highs to ensure that you're hearing more of the direct sound from the speaker and not the reflected sound from the room itself.

The Flat curve doesn't use the high-end rolloff. On the 705, changing the listening mode to any of the THX modes also changes MultEQ XT's curve to Flat, so that the high end rolloff of THX modes doesn't overlap Audyssey's rolloff.

Unfortunately, there's no way to manually select target curves on Onkyo receivers as there is on other brands. However, you can trick the receiver into Flat mode by changing to a THX mode then hitting the RE-EQ button to turn the THX rolloff off. Since this setting doesn't remain persistent once the receiver is powered off, you would have to turn RE-EQ off every time you turn the receiver on if you want to use the Flat setting on a regular basis.

6. Why is Audyssey's subwoofer distance different than its physical distance?

Audyssey measures the acoustic distance of the subwoofer, not its physical distance. This reading can be affected by several factors. For instance, the crossover control on the subwoofer can induce delay that will alter acoustic distance. Placement of the sub or placement of the mic near a wall can alter the acoustic distance. The primary factor, however, is subwoofer phase. The subwoofer distance setting essentially acts like a variable phase control, and Audyssey uses this to ensure that the subwoofer is in phase with the other speakers (i.e. sound from the sub arrives at the listening position at the same time as sound from the speakers). It is not recommended to change this setting, however, you might re-run Audyssey after correcting some of the aforementioned factors to see if it comes up closer to physical distance.

7. Audyssey detects all my speakers as Large/Full Range. Should I leave it that way?

The Onkyo implementation of Audyssey MultEQ XT has a known issue with the threshold at which it detects a speaker as Large, making any speaker with significant output below 60Hz read as such even if it is a small bookshelf speaker. Unless your speaker's -3dB point goes down to at least 35Hz, do not leave it set to Large.

8. Okay, so what crossover settings should I use for my speakers then?

The crossover is a gradual shift of sound from the speaker to the subwoofer, meaning it needs a little bit of room to transition from one to the other. A good guideline is to look up the frequency response of your speaker and find its lowest frequency (or the point where it drops off -3dB), then add about 20Hz to that to use as the crossover setting. That said, the crossover's slope (i.e. how quickly it transitions) is pretty steep, so you might be able to get away with adding as little as 10Hz to your speaker's lowest reproduceable frequency. Start with 20, then tweak to preference to get the best transition.

9. Should I change the speaker distances that Audyssey sets?

While Audyssey does seem to properly detect speaker distances close to their actual physical distances, some have found that this is not the best setting for between-speaker imaging. The calibration disc Digital Video Essentials has a series of test tones that are placed equally between channels. Using these tones, you can tweak speaker distance a half-foot up and down to listen for the setting that makes the sound "hang" in space between the speakers (which means it is in phase at that setting). If the sound becomes more diffuse or harder to pinpoint, it is because changing the setting is putting it out of phase with the other speaker.

To tweak this, do the following while facing the front of the room:
A) Play the tone placed between the left and center channels. Bump center distance up and down slightly and see if you notice a setting that sound more centered between them. Then do the same with the tone placed between center and right, choosing the center distance setting that sounds best with both tones.

B) Play the tone placed between the right and right surround, bumping right surround distance up and down slightly to listen for better sidewall placement. Because the typical placement of surrounds is higher up on the wall than the mains, you may not find a "perfect" setting for this, but you should find one that seems to emanate from that general direction best.

C) Play the tone placed between the left surround and left front, bumping left surround distance up and down for the best setting. If you have a 5.1 setup, you're done at this point.

D) For 6.1/7.1 setups, put your receiver into DPL-IIx Movie mode and play the tone between the right surround and the rear surround (since DVE only has 6.1 tones), or change DVE to the DTS track and use DTS-ES Matrix mode, then bump right rear surround distance up and down slightly until you hear solid placement of the sound between the two. Then repeat using the tone between left surround and rear surround, changing the distance setting for the left rear surround. If you only have 6.1, bump your rear up and down to listen for the setting that works best with both tones.

10. Why is the subwoofer trim setting so low?

A common mistake that people make with their subwoofer is running the gain/volume too high, which can sometimes exacerbate subwoofer noise/hum. If Audyssey is setting the subwoofer trim really low, try reducing the gain/volume on the subwoofer and re-running Audyssey. Alternately, you can do this check with a SPL meter so that you don't have to run through the entire Audyssey process again. Ideally, you want to get the subwoofer trim as close to 0 as possible, while keeping gain on the subwoofer at least at 1/3 of its range.

11. Why are all my channel trims really low?

Audyssey attempts to set each speaker so that when your receiver is set to 0 on the relative volume scale, you are at reference playback level (i.e. 105dB peaks from the speakers and 115dB peaks from the subwoofer. Because different speakers are more sensitive than others (i.e. some produce 89dB with 1 watt, some produce 91dB with 1 watt), these levels will vary depending on speaker brand/type, room acoustics, etc. If you don't care that 0 equals reference level or are using the absolute volume level reading, it's okay to bump all channel trims up in equal amounts to bring them closer to 0 if you prefer. However, since the 705's maximum volume level is dependant on the maximum channel trim you've set (i.e. if your highest channel trim is +2, maximum volume will reduce from +18 to +16 on the relative scale), you won't get extra output from the receiver by doing so.

Many here have noted that Audyssey sets trims about 2-3dB too low to achieve reference level at 0. You can double check level trims with a SPL meter and adjust them so they all read 75dB.

12. I made a noise/the dog barked/the air conditioner kicked on during Audyssey setup. Do I have to start over?

Audyssey bases its equalization on first reading the noise floor of the room, meaning you ideally want complete silence while running it. Any noise made during this time can affect equalization. If, for instance, your A/C kicks on during the initial reading of room noise, it will affect every reading after that. If your dog barks or someone opens a door while the speaker tones are playing, you may even hear it re-run that channel at a higher level. If at all possible, you should eliminate all sources of noise (i.e. put the dog out, turn off the A/C, etc.) before running Audyssey.

13. What does Audyssey MultEQ XT actually do?

Here's the general explanation: MultEQ XT takes hundreds of readings for each speaker to assess in-room frequency response. It takes this data and creates an inverse filter, meaning if it sees a peak at any frequency, it applies the exact opposite filter to counter it (and vice-versa, applying boost where there are nulls, within reason). The idea is to obtain a flatter in-room frequency response (though the 705 implementation uses a slight high-end rolloff by default - see 5 above). With bass/subwoofers, its adjustments in the time domain aim to ensure that what you're hearing at the seats is the first impulse from the sub more than the bass reflecting off of room surfaces (which is what people commonly refer to as "tight" bass). This is why it is so crucial to observe proper mic placement when running MultEQ XT.

In addition, since MultEQ XT analyzes response for a large area to eliminate "sweet spots", it also takes the aforementioned inverse filters from each mic position and creates an ideal set of filters based on its readings from all the mic positions you took (which is what it is calculating in its final step). The aim is to give your system the same general sound from all your seating positions.

For more information, see www.audyssey.com.

14. Why can't I tweak the EQ settings that Audyssey comes up with?

While the 705 offers a 7-band manual EQ, this is only as a convenience and does not reflect what MultEQ XT uses to make its adjustments, nor does it account for adjustments in the time domain that Audyssey makes. For each channel, Audyssey bases its equalization on hundreds of points along the frequency range and can potentially be making as many adjustments per channel. There is currently no way to alter those settings or even represent them on-screen, even with the vastly more expensive MultEQ XT Pro that uses a standalone PC to do its calculations.

15. But if that's true, why does X brand let you change the EQ after Audyssey?

Some receivers, notably the Denons, let you alter equalization after Audyssey runs. They do this by copying the resulting curve as best they can to the 7-band EQ, giving you a general notion of where the biggest problems lie. This lets you make coarse adjustments but also negates all the fine adjustments that Audyssey makes, as well as the ideal equalization for all positions. 7 bands of equalization in no way represent the resolution with which Audyssey makes its adjustments.

16. If Audyssey equalizes my subwoofer's in-room response, why doesn't my subwoofer have flat response when checked with test tones?

Because Audyssey is tweaking things in the time domain, you can't rely on readings using 1/6 octave test tones commonly used to assess coarse subwoofer response. The only way you could properly analyze the effect of MultEQ XT would be using a real time analyzer with time averaging, as well as reading impulse response. That's not to say that you won't see an improvement by taking coarse readings, but you won't be seeing the whole picture that way since you'll be discounting the actual time that the sound arrives at your seats, as well as the difference between direct and reflected sound from your subwoofer.

17. Do I need to run Audyssey MultEQ XT for each input or just once?

Audyssey equalizes for how the speakers perform in your room, not for how each source sounds. Running it once will properly set it up for all sources.

18. If the LFE crossover is at 80 and my speakers are crossed over higher than that, am I losing sound between them?

The LFE crossover only affects the low frequency effects channel (the .1) of a 5.1/6.1/7.1 soundtrack, not overall response from redirected bass. The 705 defaults to the THX LFE cutoff of 80Hz and Audyssey doesn't adjust that setting. However, the LFE channel by its very nature is brickwall filtered during encoding at 120Hz. If you want to accurately reproduce the entire LFE channel, set LFE cutoff to 120Hz. However, few sound mixes have audio above 80Hz in the LFE channel, which is why THX recommends the 80Hz cutoff. Also, because the LFE channel receives a +10dB boost during decoding, the THX recommended 80Hz cutoff is there to reduce the chance of humming/noise above 80Hz from the LFE channel. Chances are that you will not notice a significant difference, if any, by changing LFE cutoff from its default of 80Hz, but doing so has no effect on the bass redirected from the other channels.

19. Though I was careful with mic placement and room setup, I just don't like the Audyssey equalization. Can I change it?

It's your system and your ears, and you're the one who has to be happy with it. If you don't like it, change it! That said, we all tend to become accustomed to a general type of sound from our systems, and it's difficult to ignore that when assessing different speakers/receivers/settings/etc. If we're used to a bright sounding system, we might immediately dislike a system that is more neutral, even if it is more accurate. If we're used to muddy rock-and-roll style bass response, we might immediately dislike a system with flattened subwoofer response. With any change in your system, especially with the alterations that Audyssey makes, you should give yourself a few days of critical listening to assess the pros and cons, using music and movies that you are accustomed to hearing. While it might immediately sound subjectively as if it has less bass, you might find that critical listening reveals more accurate bass (i.e. more distinct differences in notes). If, after giving yourself some time to put aside your preconceptions, you still don't like the end result, you should certainly feel free to change it.

If anyone can think of any other setup/Audyssey questions to address, let me know.

(Please forward all comments pertaining to this previous section to Jeremy Anderson)

If you wish to know more about Audyssey please read the following also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kplex View Post

There was a good discussion in the 805 thread a couple days ago about Audyssey. Somebody invited the CTO of Audyssey labs in, and he posted a great overview of Audyssey then took a bunch of questions. I encourage everybody in the 705 thread who wants to understand Audyssey better to wander over there and read through some of the posts.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post12471321


◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

● TOP 10 ONKYO RECEIVER SETUP MISTAKES

Quote:
Originally Posted by kplex View Post

I've spent a lot of time over the last couple months in the various Onkyo receiver threads, and there are a number of issues that come up over and over again. Here's my list of the 10 most common problems people have with their new Onkyo receivers and how to deal with them. All feedback is welcome.
  1. Setting HDMI Audio Out=ON
    This one is very common and it causes a lot of problems. Symptoms include not being able to receive any signal format other than 2 channel PCM, getting video but no audio from HDMI sources, and your receiver always being muted when you first turn it on. Always set HDMI Audio Out=OFF unless you want to use your television's speakers.

  2. Expecting to see the TrueHD indicator light up with input from a PS3, HD-A1, HD-A2, HD-A3 etc.
    If you have things configured correctly, you'll get all the benefit of TrueHD, DD+ and DTS-HD with your Onkyo receiver, assuming your HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player is capable. However, in order to see the TrueHD or DD+ or DTS-HD indicators light on your receiver, the player has to send the undecoded bitstream. Most current players can't do that. They decode the bitstream and send multichannel PCM. Your receiver can't look at the PCM and tell what format it was in originally so it can't turn on the indicator on the front panel. The list of players that can transmit TrueHD, DD+ etc. bitstreams is very short and includes the Toshiba HD-A35 and HD-XA2 with firmware >= 2.7, the Samsung BD-P1400 w/firmware update, the Pioneer Elite 95FD, and the Panasonic DMP-BD30 .

  3. Expecting to get sound in Zone 2/3 for sources that are connected only with HDMI or SPDIF cables
    If you want to use zone 2/3, you have to run stereo analog cables from your sources to your receiver in addition to any HDMI or SPDIF cables.

  4. Sloppy speaker cabling
    This is one mistake that can cost you your receiver. Take your time with the speaker wires, especially if you're using bare wire connections. It's very easy to have 1 or 2 stray copper wires brush up against the adjacent speaker terminal or the chassis which can trip the protection circuits or damage your receiver. Consider using banana plugs to avoid this problem, especially at the receiver end, or solder the bare ends of the wires to keep them from fraying.

  5. Using the Surr Back speaker terminals instead of the Surr terminals in a 5.1 system
    A lot of people new to home theater assume that in a 5.1 setup you have 3 front speakers and 2 behind you, and that when you go to 7.1, you put the two additional speakers on the sides. That's backwards. In a 5.1 system, you should have 3 speakers in front and two on the sides. The two on the sides are called the surround speakers and they should be connected to the surround speaker terminals. In a 7.1 system, you have two additional speakers behind you connected to the surround back speaker terminals. Because of room constraints or personal taste, many people with 5.1 systems put the surround speakers in the back of the room. That's okay, just make sure you connect them to the Surr L and Surr R terminals. The Surr Back L and Surr Back R terminals only get used for 7.1.

    One of the symptoms of mistakenly using the Surr Back terminals in a 5.1 setup is Audyssey failing when it tests the Surrounds.

    Dolby recommended speaker setup
    THX recommended speaker setup

  6. Plugging your subwoofer into the multichannel subwoofer input instead of the subwoofer preout
    This is a mistake that even experienced people make. Both connectors are purple, so it's easy to do. If you're not getting any sound out of your subwoofer, this is the first thing to check.

  7. Improperly setting the volume knob on your subwoofer before running Audyssey
    Powered subwoofers always have a volume knob on the back. There's some leeway on where that volume knob gets set, but you'll have problems if it's too low or too high. The best way to set it initially is with a Radio Shack sound level meter. On the Speaker Setup/Level Calibration screen on your Onkyo, set the Subwoofer level to about -3.0dB and set the volume knob on your sub about 1/3 the way up. Then play the internal subwoofer test tone from your Onkyo. While the tone is playing, measure the sound level from your preferred seating position and adjust the volume knob on your sub until the Radio Shack meter reads 75dB. This is easier to do with two people. If you don't have a Radio Shack meter and don't want to get one, read the manual that came with your subwoofer and see what they recommend for the volume knob setting. You can also play some music and listen to some movies and adjust it by ear until it sounds natural.

    If you get it about right, after you run Audyssey the Level Calibration for your subwoofer will be within a range from about -3.0dB to +3.0dB. If it's much below -3.0dB, turn the volume knob down a little on your subwoofer and run Audyssey again. Likewise, if it's much over 3.0dB, you have the volume knob on your subwoofer set too low. Turn it up and run Audyssey again.

    If you like to run your subwoofer louder than the 75dB level and your Level Calibration is less than 0dB, increase the Level Calibration on your receiver a couple dB. On the other hand, if you want your subwoofer louder than the 75dB level and the Level Calibration is greater than 0dB, turn the volume knob on your sub up a little bit.

    If the subwoofer Level Calibration is way off in either direction it can result in distortion. Also if it's too low and your subwoofer has an auto on/off feature, your sub may not come on except during especially loud special effects.

    Make sure you read the manual that came with your subwoofer and if their recommendations differ from this, use the manufacturer's recommendations.

    Radio Shack Sound Level Meter

  8. Not checking Audyssey's results after doing a calibration
    Just because Audyssey terminates normally, that doesn't mean it did everything optimally. Check the subwoofer Level Calibration, and check to see how many of your speakers are set Fullband. Unless your speakers are truly full range, you might want to set the crossovers manually.

  9. Not setting Listening Modes for 2 channel sources
    This is mostly an issue for your cable TV input. If you don't set a listening mode for 2 channel sources, you'll occasionally hear loud relay clicks when a program goes to a commercial or when changing channels. When that happens while switching to a program or commercial with a 2 channel soundtrack, just press the Surr button or THX button on your remote to select a 5.1 or 7.1 surround mode. Your receiver should remember that Listening Mode and the clicks should go away. For cable boxes that always transmit Dolby Digital, you should only have to do this once for DD 2.0. For DirecTV receivers that can send DD 2.0 and also 2 channel PCM, you'll have to do it a couple times.

  10. Neither running Audyssey nor manually configuring your speakers
    If you run Audyssey, it will determine which speakers are present and disable the ones not present. So if you have a 5.1 setup and run Audyssey, it will disable the surround back speakers. If you don't run Audyssey, remember to go into the Speaker Config and manually disable any speakers not present in your setup. To manually disable speakers, scroll through the crossover settings on the Speaker Config screen and select the option "None".

    If you don't disable unused speakers, you may completely lose channels from the soundtrack you're listening to. You'll also be allowed to select Listening Modes that don't make sense for your speaker system. For instance on a 5.1 system, you should be able to select the PLII listening mode but not the PLIIx listening mode. If your Onkyo allows you to select PLIIx on anything less than a 7.1 system, it's not configured correctly.

Useful Links

Onkyo receiver manuals

TX-SR605 Thread
TX-SR705 Thread
TX-SR805 Thread
TX-SR875 Thread
TX-NR905 Thread

(Please forward all comments pertaining to this previous section to kplex)

◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

● INFO, LINKS & TOOLS

Websites, Accessories, Tips, Guides, Information and More!

1) Do you have any links to help me better understand some of the DSP technology behind my receiver?

If anyone wants to better understanding some of the Onkyo DSP's and settings, these links are a good read.

Neural-THX Surround (Reported as Link dead but www.thx.com is also not working either, they may be rebuilding their website)
http://www.thx.com/technologies/neural.html

THX Re-EQ (This is a setting on the Onkyo) (Reported as Link dead but www.thx.com is also not working either, they may be rebuilding their website)
http://www.thx.com/technologies/reeq.html

DTS HD
http://www.dts.com/dts-hd/

Dolby TrueHD
http://www.dolby.com/consumer/technology/trueHD.html

Dolby Digital EX

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/technology/dolby_ex.html

Dolby Pro Logic IIx (this reads as PLIIx on our receivers)
http://www.dolby.com/consumer/techno...logic_IIx.html

Dialogue Normalization
(Talks about Dolby Digital's Metadata)
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...on-6-2000.html

There are many more Dolby related DSP links worth reading on that Dolby page site. I will let you guys dig through these sites further if you’re interested. Whenever you see EX or X after the DSP name it means it’s the "extra channel" variation of that DSP... for 6.1 and 7.1 setups.

2) Do you have any links to tools/wires/accessories/meters that will be helpful to me with setting up or using this receiver?

METERS

Kill-A-Watt Meter
This meter is great for finding out if you are overloading your circuit and putting your house at fire risk. Even though most modern household circuit breakers can handle up to a 20 amp load, the rule of thumb is don't overload it to the point of 20 amps. Typically you ant to allow 80% elbow room between for fire safety reasons. This meter is great for finding that kind of information out. It's also handy to monitor how much power consumption you use on a daily basis with your current setup. They can be bought cheaply at amazon.com and various other online retailers for 20-30 dollar range.
http://www.p3international.com/produ.../P4400-CE.html

Sound-Level Meter
This is an invaluable tool if you are serious about tweaking your home/car stereo. This link is to a common digital display model sold at Radio Shack.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...vRjATWwJ4V.O2w

Update: (Link for Canadian users to buy this device)
http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/Produc...?ProductID=538

MultiMeter
Whenever you work with electronics it always pays to have a nice multimeter handy when you need to troubleshoot a problem. (Ex. You are not getting audio to one of your speakers. This kind of meter would tell you if you are outputting power from your receiver. Or you could diagnose if there is a short along a speaker wire or component cable.) There are many brands out there from cheap to expensive. Better Multimeters have better functionality that will allow you to determine things like True RMS power on your receiver and be able test resistance of cables, etc. I cant recommend anything (cheap), but mostly all of them will get the job done for simple tasks if you are not using them seriously on a daily basis. Search radioshack and amazon for the best reviewed meters that fit your price range.
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ultimeter&sr=1

CABLES

Monoprice.com
Monoprice is a great value if you are in the market for HDMI cables, speaker cable, component, optical, you name it. There quality rivals Monster Cable at 1/5 the cost. Many AVS forum users respect this company quite a bit as do I.

Below I took to the time to link some of my personal favorites and their highest quality versions of each item:

HDMI 1.3a Cables:
3 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=3
6 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
15 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Component Cables:
3 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
6 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

RCA Audio Cable:
3 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
6 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Optical Cable:
3 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
6 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Sub-woofer Cable:
6 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
12 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
25 Foot: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Banana Plugs:
Type 1: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Type 2: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Speaker Cable: (The lower the Gauge the thicker the cable)
100 Foot (12 Gauge): http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
100 foot (14 Gauge): http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

TOOLS

GB SE-94 Wire Stripper
I have used all sorts of wire strippers over the years, but these are my favorite for last 10+ years and they STILL are being sold and are popular. They are automatic strippers, so all you do is lay the wire between its teeth and squeeze the handle and it strips the jacket off the wire for you. One side of teeth bites down and holds the wire jacket in place, the other side of teeth bite "into" the wire jacket and pulls it back off the wire for you. I love these in particular (over other automatic wire strippers), because you will be amazed how far up the wire you can strip and still get the jacket to pull back. They are good for 10-26 Gauge wire and make quick easy work of stripping wire with little to no effort and no damage on the internal wire (this is other reason I love them no internal wire damage during stripping). You can also use this tool as a crimper. They have stood the test of time in my tool chest and work like they did when I bought them brand new. I highly recommend them.
http://www.amazon.com/GB-SE-94-Autom.../dp/B00004WLL0

GB EFT-22P Cable Snake
If you are a do-it-yourselfer type of person and finding the need to run cables down the inside of your walls, (ex: wall mounted speakers or Flat Screen HDMI cables) this tool makes like easier. Its a cable fish that allows you to fish through inside your walls. You can then drag the speaker/hdmi cable from Hole A to Hole B. This is particularly helpful for horizontal cable runs, but it also makes life easy for vertical cable drops.
http://www.amazon.com/GB-EFT-22P-Cab.../dp/B000ET29U6

Black & Decker BDL190S BullsEye Auto-Leveling Interior Line Laser
Again, this is for the do-it-yourselfer's out there. If you are wall mounting your surround speakers this tool is invaluable and affordable. It helps you keep all your speakers in a straight line around the room. It also has a build in Stud/AC power/Pipe detector which will come in handy when mounting your speakers. B&D makes a several versions of this line laser (cheaper and expensive). However, this suits the simple purposes of required for surround sound speaker mounting.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-B.../dp/B000B8LLH2

UNIVERSAL REMOTES

Logitech Harmony 880/890
This is only a recommendation that become popular amongst owners of the 705 in our previous thread. For those looking for a new universal remote that will work with this receiver and literally everything else in your house. It allows you to program the universal remote with an online driven software (via usb on your computer) that accesses a database of nearly every known remote code for everything in your house. It also has a easy to use learning function, macros, and its activity based. The best part of this remote is you get all this in a light weight rechargeable hand sized remote. (Very small not bulky at all). This can be purchased on amazon.com or local stores like costco for around 120-125 dollars.
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/re...s/372&cl=us,en

Logitech Harmony One
This is the latest remote from Logitech. I recently bought one myself and i love it. It combines the touchscreen of the Harmony 1000 with the smaller handheld size of the other remotes. It also combines the hard button design of other Haromony series remotes. The buttons are a lot easier to feel around for in the dark and is a nice improvement over the design of the 880 series.
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/re.../3898&cl=us,en

Logitech Harmony 1000
If you prefer a touch screen 2 hand version of the remote listed above, they also sell the Logitech Harmony 1000
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/re...s/373&cl=us,en

HT ACCESSORIES

Home Theater Accesory Websites
If you are very serious about home theater and are looking for some places to buy unique accessories for your theater; I came across a few websites in my Google searches I can share. These stores sell everything from Theater Seating, Concession/Popcorn stands, Poster/Marquee Signs, Lighting/Starfields and much much more.
http://www.cinemashop.com
http://www.stargatecinema.com

3) What is ClubOnkyo and where do I sign up?

No, Club Onkyo isn't a dance club! It's just a customer loyalty reward program for users of Onkyo products.

You can sign up here for free.
http://www.clubonkyo.com/reward_earn.cfm

If you register your receiver you can link you Club Onkyo account before by going to this link.
This gives your Club Onkyo account some more earned points.
http://www.us.onkyo.com/portfolio_choose.cfm

Earning Points:
Earn 10 points by becoming a member of Club Onkyo by completing the online form
Earn 5 points when you Register your Onkyo product on our product registration page
Earn 5 points when you Review your Onkyo product on our customer reviews page
Purchase great Onkyo products from our Online Store and you will receive Onkyo points equal to 5% of the subtotal of your order.
Participate in Onkyo surveys and promotions and receive points for your efforts

Redeeming Points:
Members can redeem points for purchases made on ShopOnkyo.com.
One (1) Point is equivalent to one (1) dollar towards the purchase of Onkyo products.
Points have no cash value.
Users can redeem any quantity of their earned points toward any purchase of $79.00 or more, not to exceed total purchase price.

◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊

Message and Request to thread regular visitors:
The FAQ and Guides posted above are a COMMUNITY effort. We have pulled together our knowledge and time to create something that helps the new comers and experts alike. This is built for all of us and I would like to treat this thread as a permanent work in progress. Anyone who has something valuable to add to this FAQ/Guide please feel free to send me a private message (to avoid spamming this thread with correction and addition posts). I would like to keep the posts on this thread clear for questions and help not covered on this above guide.

I will do my best to update this thread whenever I have free time available. I numbered each bullet point and labeled each section, so please just reference the number and section name if you want to post a correction to something currently posted or make an addition. (For example say, I have a correction for Buyer FAQ question 5, changed xxxx to yyyy) (Or say, I have a new question for OWNER FAQ add, xyz) This will make it easier for me to implement changes or additions.

You will be given credit for ALL your additions, corrections and contributions in section below.

Thank you again everyone for helping make this 705 community something great.

◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊●◊● ◊●◊●◊●◊●◊


FAQ Contributor Special Thanks

I want to give a special thanks to people in this community who took the time to keep this FAQ accurate, up to date and poignant. Below is a list of these contributors in no particular order along with a brief description of their contribution.

scarecrow420: Recommended a new post title, Added Australian pricing; Buyer FAQ Q1 | Rewrote Q7 in Buyer FAQ | Added Q9 & Q10 in Owner FAQ |Correction Owner FAQ Q6 | Reported new lossless bitstream player, Reported player list correction update for Hi def Q1, 2, 4 | Wrote Q19 owner FAQ | advised a new lossless bitstream player. | New addition to comparison of 605 vs 705. | Helped to further clarify firmware details | mentioned Samsung bdp1500 for lossless bitstream list
Jeremy Anderson: Wrote the FAQ section labeled "Audyssy/Setup FAQ".
kplex: Wrote Top 10 Onkyo Receiver Setup Mistakes section | Added a link to an Dialogue Normalization Article in Info section, Link to Audyssey CTO & Founder discussion thread.
mrgribbles: Informed me of a setting storage command on discovered on another thread. | Informed me of a DSP firmware update and file. | Informed everyone to take caution about CD+Standby hidden test command.
kinglerxt: Informed me of a potential DTS HD MA lossless bitstream issue...Added this issue to Q20 Owner FAQ | Added Q6 BLU RAY & HD DVD FAQ | found change log typo | offered corrections tips in Q14, links to a 606vs705 section | added Owner Q14b
csrini1: Typo correction; Buyer FAQ Q6
DrewM: Discovered a broken url; Information Q1, Requested answer to Q13 of Owner FAQ
Artslinger: Added a link to Owner FAQ Q12
Rambler358: Suggest I added XA2 to list of lossless bitstream players
djoberg: Corrected a section in Q5, Hi Def Audio Questions
Saul: Added Canadian pricing; Buyer FAQ Q1
tmu77: Updated with firmware install options list on Q14 Owner FAQ
brettbee: Letting me know the Europe Safety standards Q16 Owner FAQ
LesMoss: Informed me of true facts of Lip Sync feature with 1.3 HDMI chain for solution 3 of Q2 Owner FAQ
eliwankenobi: Informed me of alternative methods of dual AV syncing the ps3.
skid71: Informed me of new lossless bitstream player for the list.
Mudweizer: Provided easier solution for for Question 11 Owner FAQ
larryis1: Provided easier solution for for Question 11 Owner FAQ (I missed earlier post of this correction so adding out of respect)
grider: Provided link for Canadian users to buy sound level meter
aakrusen: Let me know a week in advance about the upcoming Playstation 3 firmware version 2.30 'DTS HD MA' release.
4mula1: Informed me of 2 broken links and a new lossless bitstream player.
Crowza: Tested and confirmed the Samsung BDUP5000 player lossless bitstreaming works with True HD/DTS HD MA now.
Jerm357: Tested and experimented with the internal fans "turn on and turn off" temps
ahender: Gave me updated new unit price

CHANGE LOG:
12/11/08: Update Lossless Bitstream Player List
12/9/08: New Unit Price Change
12/1/08: Updated Firmware Section
6/24/08: Added a warning to take caution about CD+Standby hidden test command.
6/14/08: Slight update on USA pricing info, enhanced topics in bold type.
6/4/08: Added internal fan turn on and turn off temps on Q5 OWNER FAQ (also reworded question and repositioned and rewrote content to be easily read with new changes)
6/3/08: Added new Samsung bdp1500 player to lossless bistreaming player list.
6/2/08: Updated Samsung BDUP5000 player lossless bitstreaming status
5/30/08: Added Q14b in OWNER FAQ (this identifies which firmware a new unit has from the serial number.) | Added 2 new Denon Players to lossless bitstream list. | Added Harmony One remote link on links section | Made several typo corrections and simple changes throughout the FAQ
5/23/08: Added 705 vs 606 (section 7b), bolded the firmware info in the main table of contents as its the most relevant info these days.
4/23/08: Corrected change log typo, further clarified firmware info, |Q14 and Q20 related to firmware has been revamped with clear info.
4/19/08: Firmware link, disclaimers and information have been included throughout various portions of this FAQ., added new lossless bitstream player, fixed to broken links.
4/16/08: Updated several questions regarding the Playstation 3 firmware version 2.30 'DTS HD MA' release.
4/2/08: Added Q6 BLU RAY & HD DVD FAQ
4/1/08: Added new info for 605 vs 705 comparison in the Buyer FAQ
3/31/08: Informed of a DSP firmware update to fix problem in Q20 Owner FAQ.. more will be posted soon.
3/29/08: Updated Q21 Owner FAQ, Update Q20 Owner FAQ, updated key commands on Q4
3/26/08: Added link for Canadian sound level meter, added new lossless bitstream player, added Q20 Owner FAQ, added Q21 Owner FAQ
3/20/08: Added easier solution for Question 11 Owner FAQ
2/27/08: Added Ctrl+F quick word searching tip.
1/31/08: Added several, "Please Read", updates throughout the entire FAQ.
1/22/08: Top 10 Onkyo Receiver Setup Mistakes section.
1/15/08: Added Q19 owner FAQ scarecrow addition.
1/11/08: Lossless Bitstream Player list updated.
12/16/07: Added link to Audyssey CTO & Founder discussion thread.
12/10/07: Added Q1 HD DVD Questions section.
12/6/07: Added info on refurbished 705's to Q1 Buyer FAQ, Added Q18 Owner FAQ
12/4/07: Post title changed (via a Moderator) thx to Scarecrow for the motivation/recommendation., Added Q3 "Blu Ray Question"
12/1/07: Added link to the the 705's PDF manual, Added Q17 Owner FAQ, Updated Solution 1 and 3 of Q3 Owner FAQ
11/29/07: Added Q10 Buyer FAQ, Q16 Owner FAQ
11/27/07: Added Q12, Q13, Q14 and Q15 to Owner FAQ, Added Q3 & Q5 to Blu Ray HD DVD FAQ (Hi Def Audio section), Added a new FAQ section called "Blu Ray & HD DVD FAQ and moved some old questions to that new section for easier locating.
11/26/07: Added Q15 of owner FAQ
11/25/07: Added Q13 of owner FAQ, Added Q14 of owner FAQ, Updated Lip Sync (Solution 2) with more accurate information, heavily reformatted fonts size/colors for easier reading.
11/19/07: Typo Corrections (More to come soon)
11/13/07: New links throughout the Info & Tips sections
11/12/07: Added Jeremy Anderson Audyssey/Setup FAQ, Updated Lipsync guide on Q4 of Owners FAQ, Updated Q6 of Owners FAQ, Added Q2 Information section.

Onkyo TX SR705 FAQ

BLU RAY ◊ 196 Movies
XBOX 360 ◊ 53 Games
PLAYSTATION 3 ◊ 25 Games
woots is offline  
post #3 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 11:22 AM
Member
 
amarksp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
AUDYSSEY\\SETUP FAQ:
Jeremy Anderson /Senior Member / Post 151
1. How should I place my speakers or prepare my room?

How much room preparation you do is up to you. Ideally, you want to give Audyssey the best possible starting point with which to work, meaning you want room acoustics/speaker placement to be as close to ideal as possible before running MultEQ XT. That doesn't necessarily mean that you have to do acoustic treatments/bass traps/etc. that people do for their dedicated home theaters. Several things to note are:

A) If your main speakers are placed very far apart, you may want to tow them in toward the center listening position slightly. A good rule of thumb is to imagine an 80-90 degree cone of sound coming from your front speakers' tweeters and angle them so that cone of sound covers your entire listening area. The dispersion patterns of different speakers will vary so you might get better/worse off-axis response than this, but this should be a good start.

B) Imagine the reflection of the sound from your front speakers as if you were playing a game of pool. Visualize where the sound is reflecting off of the side walls by imagining a line from your main listening position to the wall then to the speaker. If there's a hard surface/window at that point and you're able to, try to ensure that drapes, a cloth/canvas picture or something is at that point to disrupt the reflection. Doing this will help prevent muddying of sound from reflections and let you hear more of the direct sound from the speaker. Towing the front speakers in helps with this as well.

C) If your center channel sits more than a foot or so below ear level, angle it up so that it points toward ear level at your listening position. This should give you better dialogue clarity and will give Audyssey a better chance of EQ'ing that speaker.

D) If you are placing your subwoofer in a corner, try to keep it a few inches from either wall. If you are placing it further into the room, keep it a few inches away from the front wall and try to place it at roughly 1/3 of the total room width away from the side wall to prevent cancellation due to standing waves.

E) If your seats are close to your back wall, pull them forward a bit. Putting the listening position close to room boundaries can give you a huge gain in subwoofer response and give you rear wall reflections that no EQ'ing can work around.

For more info on general setup tips, see this forum's "Setting up your home theater 101" thread here.

2. Do I need a tripod to run MultEQ XT?

Yes - no exceptions. Placing the mic in the seats not only alters the detected speaker distance, but will prevent Audyssey from EQ'ing correctly. Holding the microphone will create noise (i.e. breathing/moving) from the user holding it, screw up bass equalization due to the hand's contact with the mic, and generally wreak havoc on equalization due to your body being behind the mic. The only correct way to run MultEQ XT is with the mic mounted on a tripod, which you should be able to find at any photo store for less than $20.

3. How should I place the microphone to run Audyssey MultEQ XT?

Once you have the mic on a tripod, make sure the tripod is raised so that the mic is slightly above the headrest of your seats to prevent the seating itself from affecting equalization. Ideally, you want the mic to rest roughly where your head would be when seated. However, if this puts the mic close to the back wall, pull the mic forward so that it is at least 12"-18" from the back wall. This gives you your first position for running MultEQ XT.

The second position should be at least 3 feet to your right when facing the front of the room, still with the mic at head level and above the headrests.

The third position should be at least 3 feet to the left of the center listening position.

Positions 4-8 depend entirely on how your seating is situated. For positions 4-6, try to mirror positions 1-3 but with the mic about 3 feet further into the room. This will give MultEQ XT a better idea of how your subwoofer responds further from room boundaries and will result in an overall better equalization of bass response. The 705 user manual has diagrams of placement positions for different types of seating configurations if you have a unique seating placement.

4. Should I be in the room while Audyssey runs?

Audyssey equalizes for the room. If you're in the room, and especially if you're in a different position for each reading, your presence in the room alters the acoustics. Ideally, you want to place the mic, step outside of the room with the remote, and trigger the next reading from there, moving back into the room only to change mic positions.

5. What target curve does Audyssey use on the 705?

Audyssey products offer three target curves: Flat, Front and Audyssey. The Front curve is not available on Onkyo receivers. The Audyssey curve, which is the default for the 705, uses a slight rolloff of the highs to ensure that you're hearing more of the direct sound from the speaker and not the reflected sound from the room itself.

The Flat curve doesn't use the high-end rolloff. On the 705, changing the listening mode to any of the THX modes also changes MultEQ XT's curve to Flat, so that the high end rolloff of THX modes doesn't overlap Audyssey's rolloff.

Unfortunately, there's no way to manually select target curves on Onkyo receivers as there is on other brands. However, you can trick the receiver into Flat mode by changing to a THX mode then hitting the RE-EQ button to turn the THX rolloff off. Since this setting doesn't remain persistent once the receiver is powered off, you would have to turn RE-EQ off every time you turn the receiver on if you want to use the Flat setting on a regular basis.

6. Why is Audyssey's subwoofer distance different than its physical distance?

Audyssey measures the acoustic distance of the subwoofer, not its physical distance. This reading can be affected by several factors. For instance, the crossover control on the subwoofer can induce delay that will alter acoustic distance. Placement of the sub or placement of the mic near a wall can alter the acoustic distance. The primary factor, however, is subwoofer phase. The subwoofer distance setting essentially acts like a variable phase control, and Audyssey uses this to ensure that the subwoofer is in phase with the other speakers (i.e. sound from the sub arrives at the listening position at the same time as sound from the speakers). It is not recommended to change this setting, however, you might re-run Audyssey after correcting some of the aforementioned factors to see if it comes up closer to physical distance.

7. Audyssey detects all my speakers as Large/Full Range. Should I leave it that way?

The Onkyo implementation of Audyssey MultEQ XT has a known issue with the threshold at which it detects a speaker as Large, making any speaker with significant output below 60Hz read as such even if it is a small bookshelf speaker. Unless your speaker's -3dB point goes down to at least 35Hz, do not leave it set to Large.

8. Okay, so what crossover settings should I use for my speakers then?

The crossover is a gradual shift of sound from the speaker to the subwoofer, meaning it needs a little bit of room to transition from one to the other. A good guideline is to look up the frequency response of your speaker and find its lowest frequency (or the point where it drops off -3dB), then add about 20Hz to that to use as the crossover setting. That said, the crossover's slope (i.e. how quickly it transitions) is pretty steep, so you might be able to get away with adding as little as 10Hz to your speaker's lowest reproduceable frequency. Start with 20, then tweak to preference to get the best transition.

9. Should I change the speaker distances that Audyssey sets?

While Audyssey does seem to properly detect speaker distances close to their actual physical distances, some have found that this is not the best setting for between-speaker imaging. The calibration disc Digital Video Essentials has a series of test tones that are placed equally between channels. Using these tones, you can tweak speaker distance a half-foot up and down to listen for the setting that makes the sound "hang" in space between the speakers (which means it is in phase at that setting). If the sound becomes more diffuse or harder to pinpoint, it is because changing the setting is putting it out of phase with the other speaker.

To tweak this, do the following while facing the front of the room:
A) Play the tone placed between the left and center channels. Bump center distance up and down slightly and see if you notice a setting that sound more centered between them. Then do the same with the tone placed between center and right, choosing the center distance setting that sounds best with both tones.
B) Play the tone placed between the right and right surround, bumping right surround distance up and down slightly to listen for better sidewall placement. Because the typical placement of surrounds is higher up on the wall than the mains, you may not find a "perfect" setting for this, but you should find one that seems to emanate from that general direction best.
C) Play the tone placed between the left surround and left front, bumping left surround distance up and down for the best setting. If you have a 5.1 setup, you're done at this point.
D) For 6.1/7.1 setups, put your receiver into DPL-IIx Movie mode and play the tone between the right surround and the rear surround (since DVE only has 6.1 tones), or change DVE to the DTS track and use DTS-ES Matrix mode, then bump right rear surround distance up and down slightly until you hear solid placement of the sound between the two. Then repeat using the tone between left surround and rear surround, changing the distance setting for the left rear surround. If you only have 6.1, bump your rear up and down to listen for the setting that works best with both tones.

10. Why is the subwoofer trim setting so low?

A common mistake that people make with their subwoofer is running the gain/volume too high, which can sometimes exacerbate subwoofer noise/hum. If Audyssey is setting the subwoofer trim really low, try reducing the gain/volume on the subwoofer and re-running Audyssey. Alternately, you can do this check with a SPL meter so that you don't have to run through the entire Audyssey process again. Ideally, you want to get the subwoofer trim as close to 0 as possible, while keeping gain on the subwoofer at least at 1/3 of its range.

11. Why are all my channel trims really low?

Audyssey attempts to set each speaker so that when your receiver is set to 0 on the relative volume scale, you are at reference playback level (i.e. 105dB peaks from the speakers and 115dB peaks from the subwoofer. Because different speakers are more sensitive than others (i.e. some produce 89dB with 1 watt, some produce 91dB with 1 watt), these levels will vary depending on speaker brand/type, room acoustics, etc. If you don't care that 0 equals reference level or are using the absolute volume level reading, it's okay to bump all channel trims up in equal amounts to bring them closer to 0 if you prefer. However, since the 705's maximum volume level is dependant on the maximum channel trim you've set (i.e. if your highest channel trim is +2, maximum volume will reduce from +18 to +16 on the relative scale), you won't get extra output from the receiver by doing so.

Many here have noted that Audyssey sets trims about 2-3dB too low to achieve reference level at 0. You can double check level trims with a SPL meter and adjust them so they all read 75dB.

12. I made a noise/the dog barked/the air conditioner kicked on during Audyssey setup. Do I have to start over?

Audyssey bases its equalization on first reading the noise floor of the room, meaning you ideally want complete silence while running it. Any noise made during this time can affect equalization. If, for instance, your A/C kicks on during the initial reading of room noise, it will affect every reading after that. If your dog barks or someone opens a door while the speaker tones are playing, you may even hear it re-run that channel at a higher level. If at all possible, you should eliminate all sources of noise (i.e. put the dog out, turn off the A/C, etc.) before running Audyssey.

13. What does Audyssey MultEQ XT actually do?

Here's the general explanation: MultEQ XT takes hundreds of readings for each speaker to assess in-room frequency response. It takes this data and creates an inverse filter, meaning if it sees a peak at any frequency, it applies the exact opposite filter to counter it (and vice-versa, applying boost where there are nulls, within reason). The idea is to obtain a flatter in-room frequency response (though the 705 implementation uses a slight high-end rolloff by default - see 5 above). With bass/subwoofers, its adjustments in the time domain aim to ensure that what you're hearing at the seats is the first impulse from the sub more than the bass reflecting off of room surfaces (which is what people commonly refer to as "tight" bass). This is why it is so crucial to observe proper mic placement when running MultEQ XT.

In addition, since MultEQ XT analyzes response for a large area to eliminate "sweet spots", it also takes the aforementioned inverse filters from each mic position and creates an ideal set of filters based on its readings from all the mic positions you took (which is what it is calculating in its final step). The aim is to give your system the same general sound from all your seating positions.

14. Why can't I tweak the EQ settings that Audyssey comes up with?

While the 705 offers a 7-band manual EQ, this is only as a convenience and does not reflect what MultEQ XT uses to make its adjustments, nor does it account for adjustments in the time domain that Audyssey makes. For each channel, Audyssey bases its equalization on hundreds of points along the frequency range and can potentially be making as many adjustments per channel. There is currently no way to alter those settings or even represent them on-screen, even with the vastly more expensive MultEQ XT Pro that uses a standalone PC to do its calculations.

15. But if that's true, why does X brand let you change the EQ after Audyssey?

Some receivers, notably the Denons, let you alter equalization after Audyssey runs. They do this by copying the resulting curve as best they can to the 7-band EQ, giving you a general notion of where the biggest problems lie. This lets you make coarse adjustments but also negates all the fine adjustments that Audyssey makes, as well as the ideal equalization for all positions. 7 bands of equalization in no way represent the resolution with which Audyssey makes its adjustments.

16. If Audyssey equalizes my subwoofer's in-room response, why doesn't my subwoofer have flat response when checked with test tones?

Because Audyssey is tweaking things in the time domain, you can't rely on readings using 1/6 octave test tones commonly used to assess coarse subwoofer response. The only way you could properly analyze the effect of MultEQ XT would be using a real time analyzer with time averaging, as well as reading impulse response. That's not to say that you won't see an improvement by taking coarse readings, but you won't be seeing the whole picture that way since you'll be discounting the actual time that the sound arrives at your seats, as well as the difference between direct and reflected sound from your subwoofer.

17. Do I need to run Audyssey MultEQ XT for each input or just once?

Audyssey equalizes for how the speakers perform in your room, not for how each source sounds. Running it once will properly set it up for all sources.

18. If the LFE crossover is at 80 and my speakers are crossed over higher than that, am I losing sound between them?

The LFE crossover only affects the low frequency effects channel (the .1) of a 5.1/6.1/7.1 soundtrack, not overall response from redirected bass. The 705 defaults to the THX LFE cutoff of 80Hz and Audyssey doesn't adjust that setting. However, the LFE channel by its very nature is brickwall filtered during encoding at 120Hz. If you want to accurately reproduce the entire LFE channel, set LFE cutoff to 120Hz. However, few sound mixes have audio above 80Hz in the LFE channel, which is why THX recommends the 80Hz cutoff. Also, because the LFE channel receives a +10dB boost during decoding, the THX recommended 80Hz cutoff is there to reduce the chance of humming/noise above 80Hz from the LFE channel. Chances are that you will not notice a significant difference, if any, by changing LFE cutoff from its default of 80Hz, but doing so has no effect on the bass redirected from the other channels.

19. Though I was careful with mic placement and room setup, I just don't like the Audyssey equalization. Can I change it?

It's your system and your ears, and you're the one who has to be happy with it. If you don't like it, change it! That said, we all tend to become accustomed to a general type of sound from our systems, and it's difficult to ignore that when assessing different speakers/receivers/settings/etc. If we're used to a bright sounding system, we might immediately dislike a system that is more neutral, even if it is more accurate. If we're used to muddy rock-and-roll style bass response, we might immediately dislike a system with flattened subwoofer response. With any change in your system, especially with the alterations that Audyssey makes, you should give yourself a few days of critical listening to assess the pros and cons, using music and movies that you are accustomed to hearing. While it might immediately sound subjectively as if it has less bass, you might find that critical listening reveals more accurate bass (i.e. more distinct differences in notes). If, after giving yourself some time to put aside your preconceptions, you still don't like the end result, you should certainly feel free to change it.

If anyone can think of any other setup/Audyssey questions to address, let me know.
amarksp is offline  
post #4 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 11:29 AM
Member
 
raudi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for posting this. I was thinking of returnng my 605 for the 705 and this answered a lot of my questions.
raudi is offline  
post #5 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 01:16 PM
Advanced Member
 
Jerm357's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Detroit
Posts: 787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
How audible is the built in fan on the 705? How close do you have to be to the receiver to actually hear it?

One more thing..... Are you able to do firmware upgrades on this receiver? If so, how would one go about doing that?
Jerm357 is offline  
post #6 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 01:43 PM
Member
 
damnesiac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Does anyone know if the FAQ also applies to the TS-SR705P?

http://www.onkyopro.com/model.cfm?cl...=TX-SR705P&p=i

I created a thread earlier asking if anyone knew what the difference(s) were between the 705 and 705P but it got buried pretty fast and never got any responses. In hindsight the question should have probably been posted here right from the start.
The only difference that I can see is that the "P" series comes with rack ears, I'd be curious to know if that's the ONLY difference or if any components are also updated?
damnesiac is offline  
post #7 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 02:00 PM
Advanced Member
 
Skid71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: KC
Posts: 522
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Huge thanks to woots, mrgribbles, jeremy anderson and so many more for contributing their time, experience and knowledge.

Reading the "old" thread has been both fun and enlightening.


Items in my kit that AVS has MADE me buy
Pioneer 5070
XBox 360
Got off kind of cheap huh?

Items that will (soon) be added to my kit... also because of AVS
Onkyo 705
Samsung BD-UP5000
KEF KHT3005

Does anyone know of a 12 step program for this A/V addiction?

Skid

BOTJ Member... Onk 705 FW 1.06
Skid71 is offline  
post #8 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 02:53 PM
Member
 
narayanarao123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Jose, USA
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid71 View Post

Huge thanks to woots, mrgribbles, jeremy anderson and so many more for contributing their time, experience and knowledge.

Reading the "old" thread has been both fun and enlightening.

I too share the same. I am fairly new to this user community and it helped me in many ways i.e., deciding on right model (605 vs 705 vs 805 etc), got a price indication and got inputs for setting up the system etc. My big thanks to everybody.
narayanarao123 is offline  
post #9 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 03:02 PM
Member
 
scott5626's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Indiana-US
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I was thinking of upgrading my Onkyo 604 to the 705 or the 805. Mostly to get the True HD Lossless.

Am I to understand that with an A2 or a PS3, True HD or DTS HD will not display on the 705?

Is there a noticable difference between Multi-Channel sound I currently am geeting with my 604 using Blu-ray's and HD DVD's compared to True HD?

Thanks for any help.

You have to stand for something-or you will fall for anything
scott5626 is offline  
post #10 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 03:06 PM
Senior Member
 
tmu77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 229
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am not aware of anyone ever having had the 2 bottom fans turn-on on the 705. A lot of people are taking extra measures and buying their own small fans and placing them on top of the Onkyo.

I'm from Australia and we have some hot days - my Onkyo is regurarly running at 52 degrees celsius (about 125 fahrenheit). I queried my local support about all this, and they advised they would turn on when you hit close to 60% celsius (about 140 fahrenheit).

I wouldn't worry about the heat this unit produces - and if someone has had the fans turn-on on the 705, please correct me.
tmu77 is offline  
post #11 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 03:19 PM
Advanced Member
 
arbitrage000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Whitehorse
Posts: 762
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
just wanted to say....great work woots on the faq and this new thread should be helpfull....subscribing as of now to this thread instead of the original. To all prospective 705 owners, so far i've had nothing but positive experiences with this receiver. It is my first receiver ever and is paired with a PS3, HDPVR and XA2 all going to my Sony50A2000 TV. So far running only 5.1 but hope to grab 2 more rears soon (will cut down on the amount of clicking!! being able to run DPLIIx for everything!). I guess I'll be spending lots of time on this thread till they open up the HDM sections again...LOL.....

Blue Discs: 28....Next purchase...The Rock
Red Discs: 7....Next purchase...Is there a need to?
PS3 Games: 4....Next purchase...GT5
Just a bluish shade of purple....Neutrality is calming!
arbitrage000 is offline  
post #12 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 03:42 PM
Newbie
 
SydKad99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I posted this on the other thread right before we moved to this new one, and am moving it here in hopes of some help....

I just upgraded an older Onkyo to the 705 last night. I have the DirecTV HR20 connected via HDMI only (no optical) with HDMI running from the receiver to a Sammy DLP.

The problem: every time I resume playback after having paused for >10 seconds (or if takes me a long time to FF), I lose audio for about a seoncd and the DD light goes out on my 705, the HDMI light flashes, and then I regain DD and HDMI light goes solid again. Its apparent to me that its renegotiating what sound output to use, but is this normal? I tried connecting the optical cable and it did the same thing (minus the HDMI light flashing of course.) It never did this with my old Onkyo, which was a 6.1 reciever connected via optical.

Has anyone else with a similar setup experienced this?

Thanks
SydKad99 is offline  
post #13 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 04:01 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Steve Dodds's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: San Francisco, now Australia
Posts: 2,883
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
I get that. The 705 is a little slow picking up digital audio information. A more annoying thing is that when I put my projector (connected by HDMI) into standby, the HDMI audio from my DVD player starts to drop in and out. This can only be solved by turning the projector completely off or completely on.
Steve Dodds is offline  
post #14 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
woots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: ATLANTA, GA
Posts: 694
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnesiac View Post

Does anyone know if the FAQ also applies to the TS-SR705P?

http://www.onkyopro.com/model.cfm?cl...=TX-SR705P&p=i

I created a thread earlier asking if anyone knew what the difference(s) were between the 705 and 705P but it got buried pretty fast and never got any responses. In hindsight the question should have probably been posted here right from the start.
The only difference that I can see is that the "P" series comes with rack ears, I'd be curious to know if that's the ONLY difference or if any components are also updated?

Spec vs spec they are identical (as i am sure you have noticed also). As far as I can tell through Google I think they are just catering to a professional market. I will try to see if I can uncover any differences or if anyone else here knows is there are any internal quality differences. The retail price difference is 100 dollars more and like you said the only obvious difference is the 705p is rack mountable.

Onkyo TX SR705 FAQ

BLU RAY ◊ 196 Movies
XBOX 360 ◊ 53 Games
PLAYSTATION 3 ◊ 25 Games
woots is offline  
post #15 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 05:49 PM
Newbie
 
MaidenFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have joined the ranks of the 705 owners and will have my receiver soon. Replacing and old Sony (the model number escapes me) with the highest video connection being S-Video (been running HDMI straight to my TV and TOSlink to my receiver thus far).

I'm looking forward to doing some playing soon!
MaidenFan is offline  
post #16 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 06:29 PM
Advanced Member
 
scarecrow420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Reposting pclausen's questions fromn the old thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by pclausen View Post

I did some searches against this thread but didn't come across anweres to the following scenario:

A friend of mine just picked up this receiver. He has a 1080i TV with component and DVI inputs. Unfortunately, the DVI input doesn't have HDCP.

He plans to connect the following components:

HD-A2 via HDMI (for audio) and component (for video)
Xbobx360 via component
HTPC via DVI to HDMI cable
Cable STB via component

1. If he uses a component connect to the TV, I understand that all the HDMI sources will get downconverted to 720p, correct? This is assuming the 705 can even transcode HDMI to component. Can it?

2. Since he doesn't want HD-DVD downconverted to 720p, but he does want lossless audio, is the 705 flexible enough to allow him to assign HDMI for the audio and component for video for his HD-A2 source?

3. If he also connects the TV via a HDMI to DVI cable, will the 705 allow the HTPC signal through to the TV? I would image so since the HTPC doesn't require HDCP and it works fine when connected directly to the TV.

Thanks!

1. HDMI can not be downconverted to Component. This "breaks" the concept and content protection rules of HDMI

2. Given point 1. above, the HDMi cannot be converted to component output. But its important to note that a 1080P signal via HDMI is happily passed through to the HDMI output at 1080P and not downconverted. Down/up conversion only happens when translating between input types (composite/svideo to component or HDMI, component to HDMI). You probably know this, but i thought it important to point out. Regarding the main part of this question - I havent tried this myself, however using the menus on the 705 I do believe it is possible to select a Component input for video on that channel, but a HDMI input for Audio. Reading the manual mentions certain things such that HDMI audio is selected by default if you assign the HDMI input section to a channel, but it doesnt seem to say that this precludes selecting HDMI as an audio source even if the video source is not set to HDMI. The HDMI input source also makes mention that if you select "---" then it will upconvert whichever source is assigned in the video input section to HDMI (ie Component 1/2/3 or else the composite/svideo input for that receiver channel) but hopefully that doesnt mean it ceases to pass through the component video signal as well. Someone with a device that does HDMI and component output at the same time will need to confirm this for you 100% but hopefully this one _is_ possible

3. This is tricky... HDMI, HDCP and handshaking can be problematic at the best of times... when you then throw in a DVI to HDMI adapter it may further complicate things. There have been posts in the old thread of people succesfully using DVI-HDMI adapters with the 705 but there also seems to be people having problems. Ultimately it would seem it comes down to the devices in question and how flexible they are in their support for this kind of stuff. At least it seems from some cases, the 705 isnt mandating that HDCP be active, so hopefully it is a good sign that the TV and HTPC work fine together when directly connected. There is also a little adapter device available that can add HDCP to a DVI-HDMI connection, which some people have to use in order to get this kind of thing to work. Cant think of its name at the moment, but that would be another avenue to look into

If your friend does go ahead with the onkyo, it would certainly be worth hooking up the onkyo to the tv viat he component out, as well as the HDMI out into the TV's DVI in (through a HDMI to DVI cable/converter) as apparently HDCP is not implemented on a lot of devices still, so maybe the tosh doesnt even require it. Certainly would be worth trying!
scarecrow420 is offline  
post #17 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 06:30 PM
Advanced Member
 
scarecrow420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Reposting vicw's question from the old thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by vicw View Post

I just got my new 705, mainly to help me with the 1080p lip sync issues I encoutered with my new Samsung DLP set. My ten year old Yamaha amp lacked the audio delay capability. I'm quite happy with the Onkyo, although I'm still fussing with understanding some of the esoteric choices. The Onkyo came with a 40 msec audio delay already set up, which seems just about perfect.

I expect I'll keep my Owner's Guide close at hand for a while. My only big disappointment so far was discovering that the Onkyo doesn't pass audio on HDMI to the TV, unless I disable the amp speaker outputs. I wanted that output to allow me to attach my Sennheiser 820S wireless to the TV output to give me an echo-free assist for hearing speech (I have some high frequency hearing loss). I will probably have to go back to connecting the Dish 722, and my DVD directly to the TV, bypassing the Onkyo video switching and processing, and will have to keep using my old Pronto to handle it all conveniently.

Can you not attach your SennHeiser headphones to another audio output of the 705? Obviuosly using the headphone output would mute the rest of the speakers, but the 705 has an optical audio output, as well as the regular analogue (red+white RCA) outputs, and i guess even the line level multi channel pre-outs (You could just use left+right). Couldyou use a stereo RCA to headphone jack converter, and run the headphones directly from the 705?
scarecrow420 is offline  
post #18 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 06:39 PM
Advanced Member
 
Jerm357's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Detroit
Posts: 787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 View Post

How audible is the built in fan on the 705? How close do you have to be to the receiver to actually hear it?

One more thing..... Are you able to do firmware upgrades on this receiver? If so, how would one go about doing that?

Anybody???
Jerm357 is offline  
post #19 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 06:49 PM
Advanced Member
 
scarecrow420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 View Post

Anybody???

I have never heard my 705's fans, and word is that they dont even switch on until a quite high temperature (i read that onkyo australia support advised one user the fans dont even switch on until 60 deg celsius). Assumedly to hit the temp where the fan turns on, you would probably have the volume up loud enough that you wouldnt hear it anyway! Suffice to say the fans are not noticable

Regarding firmware upgrades, the word is that onkyo will do them at their service centres only. However i understand that the firmwar update procedure may be able to be done from a running a CD in an attached CD/DVD player and/or possibly by using the RS232 COM port on the back of the receiver. Apparently they have released firmwares for the 905 and 875 models, which some users have obtained (see other threads on AVS for more details). I know the 905 has a network interface which is probably how that update is applied, but the 875 doesnt... so whatever method they use to update the firmware on that would hopefully work on our units as well. There are *rumours* that there may be a 705 firmware released at somepoint, and it seems that if/when there is, we should be able to get it via guys on these forums who have means/ways to get them, eventhough onkyo dont actually release them to the public
scarecrow420 is offline  
post #20 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 07:08 PM
Member
 
rapha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm having some similar issues.
1. Watching a BR disc through the PS3 the 705 kept clicking while switching in and out of multichannel (which is locked as the default for that input) and renegotiating the audio through the trailers and FBI messages - really annoying - once the movie itself started everything was fine. If it were a quiet click it would be fine - but it's quite loud - and distracting - must have done it a half dozen or more times.
2. I'm getting 2-3 second audio dropouts with TV in the middle of broadcasts for seemingly no reason - I use PLIIx Movie as standard for the HDMI - the red lights on the receiver suddenly go out - then light up again as the sound comes back.
3. The usual two second audio delay when changing channels. I was running a Harman Kardon AVR-247 prior to the SR705 with none of these issues.

I've tried using component with optical for the TV but it's just the same.

All in all a great receiver - better sound than the HK - but right now some annoying glitches
rapha is offline  
post #21 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 07:14 PM
Member
 
sevenftr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Gang

I said I would get back to everyone when i upgraded to the 805. Just finished setting up and tried to get the hum but impossible. The 805 is silent! I am afraid the hum problem may be in all the 705's but some speakers show it off more than others but I'm really not sure. I just know that for me it is night and day different.

I really liked the 705 and so hopefully it really is just a few 705's that are afflicted. Thanks for all your help.

RN
sevenftr is offline  
post #22 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 07:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
dropzone7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 4,121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 68
Yeay! Thanks for the FAQ Woots!
dropzone7 is online now  
post #23 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 07:39 PM
Senior Member
 
theirishgonzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: third star to the right and strait on till morning
Posts: 346
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i just picked up by 705 today and it is good but not as good as my 787 with it is replaceing. and not as good as my sunfire tg3 but it is good. but it will do things that my onkyo 787 could never dream of like the video up scaleing. i do think they took sothing out the amps to add the video but it is great.

if you are lucky enough to be irish you are lucky enough
theirishgonzo is offline  
post #24 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 07:42 PM
Advanced Member
 
scarecrow420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by rapha View Post

I'm having some similar issues.
1. Watching a BR disc through the PS3 the 705 kept clicking while switching in and out of multichannel (which is locked as the default for that input) and renegotiating the audio through the trailers and FBI messages - really annoying - once the movie itself started everything was fine. If it were a quiet click it would be fine - but it's quite loud - and distracting - must have done it a half dozen or more times.
2. I'm getting 2-3 second audio dropouts with TV in the middle of broadcasts for seemingly no reason - I use PLIIx Movie as standard for the HDMI - the red lights on the receiver suddenly go out - then light up again as the sound comes back.
3. The usual two second audio delay when changing channels. I was running a Harman Kardon AVR-247 prior to the SR705 with none of these issues.

I've tried using component with optical for the TV but it's just the same.

All in all a great receiver - better sound than the HK - but right now some annoying glitches

Its really perplexing that some people have such issues while others do not!? I get clicks (internal in the receiver, not coming through speakers) when changing between listening modes but they arent really that loud to me and arent distracting at all. What do you mean by "locked to that input" ? Dont most people apply Movie PLII/x to the audio when watching BDs on PS3? As mentioned earlier you may be able to minimise the listening mode changes by setting your preffered listening mode (eg Movie PLIIx) for the different types of sources you are receivng (the FBI warning might be coming across in DD 2.1 or stereo or something, thus it keeps switching between all these listening modes). Although if you have your PS3 set to PCM shouldnt it just be sending everything off the disc in PCM? Perhaps if you have DD and DTS set to bitstream, but the lossless codecs set to PCM causes the PS3 to switch sources and thus the delay in the onkyo determining what format it is being sent, and what listening modes to play. I dont own a PS3 so im not sure what menu options there are, but hopefully you may have some leeway to tweak them around and see if it improves things for you

When i change sources, i get a slight delay while the audio signal is renegotiated, but in terms of changing channels on my cable box, i dont thinki get this delay (or certainly not as much of a delay as when i switch from DVD to CABLE/SAT)... And i certainly dont get any kind of dropouts while in the middle of watching something. When you say it drops out for no apparent reason... i assume that means it doesnt coincide with commercials (which may be coming through in a different stereo or 2.1 format)? You probably know this, but you can use the DISPLAY button to have the onkyo identify what audio format it is receiving... if you can check this before/after the dropouts to see if it has changed at all, that would be useful info

These niggles that some people have and others dont makes me wonder whether it isnt so much the 705 that is the problem here, but how it interacts with other devices... depending on the model of your cable box, and TV, perhaps the HDMI handshake chain is flaky and causes these dropouts. I dont know how we could really go about ascertaining it, but i wonder whether older model cable boxes and tvs are having more of these type of problems, because their HDMI stuff isnt as up to date or forgiving as newer devices.

I wonder with the problem where the audio stops after you turn off the TV is actually the source device ceasing to transmit audio anymore when it detects the HDMI chain is "broken", or whether it is actually the onkyo that is making the decision to stop playing sound because the TV is now "gone" (and once again, how could we tell?).

I think i read inthe 905 firmware update thread, that they fixed some HDMI handshaking issues, so i suppose that could be taken to mean that there are at least some things the onkyo gets involved in, which a future firmware update may be able to make more lenient or forgiving
scarecrow420 is offline  
post #25 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 08:41 PM
Advanced Member
 
Jerm357's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Detroit
Posts: 787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenftr View Post

Hi Gang

I said I would get back to everyone when i upgraded to the 805. Just finished setting up and tried to get the hum but impossible. The 805 is silent! I am afraid the hum problem may be in all the 705's but some speakers show it off more than others but I'm really not sure. I just know that for me it is night and day different.

I really liked the 705 and so hopefully it really is just a few 705's that are afflicted. Thanks for all your help.

RN

So does everyone with a 705 feel they have this hum issue? I cant see how they could if so many are very happy with there receiver.

Oh... and thanks Scarecrow for your reply.
Jerm357 is offline  
post #26 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 08:55 PM
Member
 
vividere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello...was ready to buy a 605 or a 705 for a second home theatre system (my bedroom) when I ran into these comments on another forum:

Quote:


This is an entry level receiver loaded with bells & whistles that has both audio and video limitations that one can fully expect at this price point.

480i upconversion (like the 605 + 805) is very poor. The chip used failed the Silicon Optix's HQV 480i deinterlacing test which means that it can't deliver all the detail of 480i sources when upconverting.

2:3 pull-down processing is very poor resulting in jaggies clearly visible.

Low power output in 5 channel modes means that it must be used with high efficiency 8 ohm speakers only in order to attain realistic dynamic range before the noise floor becomes audible. This is certainly not a unit for those whose primary concern is 2 channel audio or who is a serious listener of classical music.

The "pop" bug is transient noise peak generated when changing inputs and affected around 30% of units shipped.

I read about the pop and wasn't too worried about that. I have also ready about the hum and that does bother me. What about the other comments the other person wrote about the 705?

Currently I am running an old Sony receiver on my second system but it is now connected to a TV with HDMI and I bought one of those $98 HD-A2 HD-DVD players and thought I would upgrade to a HDMI compatible receiver. I saw the CNET Editor's Choice rating on the 605 and then found the 705 and thought my decision was made. Now I am not so sure?

Thanks,
Lew
vividere is offline  
post #27 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 09:33 PM
Advanced Member
 
scarecrow420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by vividere View Post

Hello...was ready to buy a 605 or a 705 for a second home theatre system (my bedroom) when I ran into these comments on another forum:



I read about the pop and wasn't too worried about that. I have also ready about the hum and that does bother me. What about the other comments the other person wrote about the 705?

Currently I am running an old Sony receiver on my second system but it is now connected to a TV with HDMI and I bought one of those $98 HD-A2 HD-DVD players and thought I would upgrade to a HDMI compatible receiver. I saw the CNET Editor's Choice rating on the 605 and then found the 705 and thought my decision was made. Now I am not so sure?

Thanks,
Lew

I think everyone here will agree that the 705 video upscaling is not its main feature point, but it wasnt really supposed to be. It probably comes down to how heavily you will be using the video processing and upscaling abilities... this obviuosly only comes into play with older style component/composite/svideo input devices... obviously with regards to HDMI sources and your new HDDVD player, the HDMI signals are passed through untouched, and no upscaling is performed. Its also worth noting that very few devices pass all of those DVE video tests... even the latest 3rd gen toshiba HDDVD players cant have some problems with 1080i/60 or 3:2 pulldown or something like that (sorry check the HDDVD player forum for more details).

In terms of audio quality i think you will find many of the owners in this thread are extremely happy with the audio quality of our receivers. Obviously you want to match your receiver and speakers with eachother... but 110 watts per channel (and yes, admittedly lower than this when driving 5/6/7 speakers in surround mode) is more than adequate for most speakers you would be using, unless you are a high level enthusiast.

If given the chance, would many of us step up to the more powerful "audiophile" oriented 805 model (those whose cabinets can take the large increases in size and weight of course), or spring for the 875/905 with REON 1080P upscaling capabilities (or similar models from another company)? hell yeah! But we all obviously have a budget to work from, and many of us 705 owners agree that the 705 sounds absolutely great, and comes with fatures and functionality that cant be matched at this price point by other receivers...

I dont know what kind of user you are, but i can tell you that in my personal situation... this is the first proper AVR i have bought, and i also got a decent set of speakers (cost about 1.4 x what i paid for the AVR) which are matched well in terms of power output etc, and i am simply blown away. I couldnt imagine even needing all the power of THIS receiver, given that we spend majority of our time with the volume down low at -30 to -20 Db, and on the few occasions ive cranked it up to listen to music or impress mates (havent even taken it above 0Db point), it has absolutely shook the walls! I imagine alot of the people reading this forum are the same as me - we buy gear and sit on it for at least a while, rather than upgrading every 6 months, and like to do alot of research into these purchases so we know we are getting the best we can for our budget, with future proofing built in and all the rest of it... and i think this receiver is a great reccomendation for those type of people

Indeed it does seem some people have had issues with humming, but the vocal few who have had that issue, compared to the mass of silent happy owners, would make me suggest to at least try a 705 for yourself... if you are unlucky to experience any of these problems, swap it out for another one, an 805, or something entirely different if you like. Chances are you'll find yourself in the same group that 99% of us are - happy users, loving our new toy
scarecrow420 is offline  
post #28 of 8898 Old 11-08-2007, 10:13 PM
Member
 
narayanarao123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Jose, USA
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 View Post

So does everyone with a 705 feel they have this hum issue? I cant see how they could if so many are very happy with there receiver.

Oh... and thanks Scarecrow for your reply.

I bought 705 4 weeks ago. I am happy with the unit but the hissing from my receiver remains a concern. At low volumes everything seems to be very fine. I played all the versions of LOTR (Lord of the rings),Gladiator, Matix and Transformers. They sounded good at low volumes. However, once I go beyond -30DB volume I could notice the hissing sound. From there on, hissing increases with the increase in volume. The speaker wires are away from electrical wires or equippment. I am thiking either my perticular unit is faulty are I haven't configured something correctly. Any suggestions/recommendations will be appreciated.
narayanarao123 is offline  
post #29 of 8898 Old 11-09-2007, 03:31 AM
Member
 
damnesiac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 View Post

So does everyone with a 705 feel they have this hum issue?

I do, I've talked to Onkyo support about it and am still waiting to hear back if this is an issue with the entire 705 line or if there are just a few isolated cases.
I created a "hum test" thread on this last week and added more detail on how to try and produce the hum today...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=931586

BTW- Thanks Woots for the FAQ! Thanks also for looking into the 705P, had a glimmer of hope there for a sec.
damnesiac is offline  
post #30 of 8898 Old 11-09-2007, 05:16 AM
Member
 
musicmaniac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I never had an issue with humming in my 705 and I could hear my fans after they came on and the volume turned down.
musicmaniac is offline  
Reply Receivers, Amps, and Processors

Tags
Onkyo Tx Sr705 Receiver
Gear in this thread - Sr705 by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off