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post #361 of 408 Old 06-13-2011, 06:22 PM
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I know this has been asked before but I just want to make sure:
Is there any difference in sound if I use a Y adapter to connect 2 subs to my 7.1 AVR vs. 2 subs in a discrete 7.2 AVR?

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post #362 of 408 Old 06-13-2011, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I think most receiver's can't apply DSP to both subs even if they have two sub outputs. IMO, that would mean that Y cable vs receiver's with two sub outputs usually the same thing. I am not familiar with all receivers though.

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post #363 of 408 Old 07-06-2011, 07:11 AM
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Depends on the room correction of the receiver and sub placement. But I think most with dual sub outputs will at least set individual distances and blend the summed output if they're not co-located. I know YPAO, will offer the choice of front/back L/R etc and Audyssey depending on the level can do up to three subs in a L/R+LFE or summed format.

If I had a unit with dual sub outputs I'd use those before trying a Y connector in most cases.

Placing and blending dual subs into a system properly can have a very appreciable impact on sound quality.
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post #364 of 408 Old 07-06-2011, 11:50 AM
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Certain higher-end HK AVRs have utilized multiple subwoofer outputs for a couple of generations, and the software is also used in their high end JBL Synthesis lineup. The software runs on a TI DSP platform and depending upon version can handle up to (4) subwoofers, it was written in-house by their advanced R&D team. Their approach has been published in various White papers both from the AES and Harman.

Essentially the DSP calibrates each subwoofer LF energy including level, phase, and frequency contribution so that the listening sweet spot has equal balance even if the listener moves left-to-right.

Just my $0.02..
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post #365 of 408 Old 08-08-2011, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnrgagne View Post

Depends on the room correction of the receiver and sub placement. But I think most with dual sub outputs will at least set individual distances and blend the summed output if they're not co-located. I know YPAO, will offer the choice of front/back L/R etc and Audyssey depending on the level can do up to three subs in a L/R+LFE or summed format.

If I had a unit with dual sub outputs I'd use those before trying a Y connector in most cases.

Placing and blending dual subs into a system properly can have a very appreciable impact on sound quality.

I can't speak of higher end units, but the yamaha 667 does nothing but add an extra preout for sub. It does not allow different distance or level settings for the second sub. One must level match or gain match thru the subs gain control and then play with distance setting in the AVR to achieve the best response for the setup.
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post #366 of 408 Old 09-05-2011, 09:00 AM
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I currently have a Pioneer Elite VSX36TX AVR. One thing that it is lacking is HDMI Switching & I am starting to think of replacing it.

In my current setup, I am using left & right analog outs to feed a remote receiver in the living room & my computer speakers in my bedroom. One thing that my Pioneer will not do is send any digital audio input (either Optical or Coax) to the analog outputs, so any signal that is coming into the Pioneer is not heard in the remote locations.

Do any of the current AVR's offer the capability of sending a digital audio input (either via HDMI, Optical, or Coax) to line analog audio outputs?
If so, what is this feature called, so that I know what to look for in my next AVR.

Thanks

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post #367 of 408 Old 09-06-2011, 11:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I will no longer ever answer questions in this thread that are not about the FAQ. Please post to the amp/receiver forum - you will get more answers that way as well.

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #368 of 408 Old 09-12-2011, 12:43 PM
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Can someone explain AVR "brightness"? I had a sales rep tell me that my Yamaha RX-A2000 was a "bad match" for my Paradigm Studio speakers because Japanese AVR's tend to play "bright" and I should have gone with a US or UK AVR.
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post #369 of 408 Old 09-12-2011, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuzzy View Post

Can someone explain AVR "brightness"? I had a sales rep tell me that my Yamaha RX-A2000 was a "bad match" for my Paradigm Studio speakers because Japanese AVR's tend to play "bright" and I should have gone with a US or UK AVR.

First off, I think he's just repeating wives' tales.

Secondly, it has no universal definition (one of the problems with audio,) but could mean too things. (1) The high end response is not flat...high frequency energy is boosted somehow; (2) It's distorting, and is heard as an annoying harshness in the high frequency range.

Any receiver will sound like crap if you overdrive it, so let's ignore that.

It would be very unusual for a receiver to have a not flat response in the audio band.

(Oh yeah, I won't answers questions in here unless they are about the FAQ...and for some reason, I did anyway...but in general, I won't; post to the main thread.)

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post #370 of 408 Old 09-30-2011, 08:55 AM
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Michael, just wanted to say thank you for this FAQ!
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post #371 of 408 Old 10-09-2011, 08:44 AM
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I am trying to hook up a home theatre system in my living room (5.1) and I also want to use the same receiver to control 6 speakers in my kitchen, dining room and den (2 per room - these six speakers will be a seperate zone) and an additional 2 speakers outside (I would like this to be a third zone or I will combine into the second zone with the 6 speakers). I realize I will need a speaker selector switch because of the number of sleakers in my system. I want to be able to play different sources in different zones ( TV in living room and music in the other two zones). Everything I have read and all the people I have spoken to have said that there are no receivers that can send DIGITAL sources to the second or third zone. I am considering the Denon 3312 or Pioneer Elite SC57 (I really want AirPlay). I want to be able to watch TV in living room (zone 1) and use iPhone or iPad to play music using AirPlay in zone 2 at the same time. Does anyone know of any way this can be accomplished? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone knows any stores where the staff are knowledgeable and can help me out with something like this I would appreciate your recommendation also. I am in Toronto, Canada. Thanks
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post #372 of 408 Old 10-09-2011, 10:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I will no longer ever answer questions in this thread that are not about the FAQ. Please post to the amp/receiver forum - you will get more answers that way as well.

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #373 of 408 Old 10-17-2011, 11:18 AM
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I noticed that the FAQ mentions speakers as a consideration in maximizing the value of a receiver, but was wondering if a top of the line tv necessarily calls for a high end receiver (or vice versa)?
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post #374 of 408 Old 10-17-2011, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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A TV needs no receiver at all, unless you want improved sound. Never heard a TV with great sound. With flat panel TVs, there's no real way I know of to get good bass. Speakers are too close together. Cabinet is plastic, with is non optimal for speakers. Just to name some factors.

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post #375 of 408 Old 10-18-2011, 05:51 AM
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Sorry if my question was unclear- I'm not trying to figure out if I should get a receiver (actually I have one that I'm looking to replace), but I'm wondering if it could be said 'why are you pairing up that $5,000 tv with a $200 receiver' the way it seems you might say 'why are you pairing up those $5,000 speakers with a $200 receiver?' Besides the fact that a $2,000 receiver is often better than a $200 one, does the tv itself play a factor in what you get out of the receiver?
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post #376 of 408 Old 10-18-2011, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't think the TV has anything to do with your receiver purchase. There is a school of thought that says that it's silly to spend a lot more on a receiver than speakers. Probably because speakers make the biggest difference in sound.

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post #377 of 408 Old 11-15-2011, 09:54 AM
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Hi Just want to ask about the true function of an AVR...if you connect the video output from cable to tv directly, what "V" aspect is being used in the AVR? Isn't an AVR a glorified audio receiver with the "V" thrown in as redundancy?
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post #378 of 408 Old 11-15-2011, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natchie View Post

Hi Just want to ask about the true function of an AVR...if you connect the video output from cable to tv directly, what "V" aspect is being used in the AVR? Isn't an AVR a glorified audio receiver with the "V" thrown in as redundancy?

In that scenario the video portion of an AVR is indeed redundant.
But where the video portion of an AVR can be very useful is numerous, if needed or desired.
- video processing (upscaling, deinterlacing, noise reduction) to better suit the video device (particularly front projectors)
- acting as a hub/switch for multiple video sources with multiple different video input types, then one single cable out to the TV
- utilizing the benefits of HDMI (audio, video, hi-res multi-ch lossless audio) all over a single cable
- video out for use with the AVR's menu navigation, setup, EQ/PEQ, advanced features, networking, online services
- On Screen Menu, TV displays current "state" of the AVR (volume level, input source, decoder/DSP currently in use, etc..)
- etc...
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post #379 of 408 Old 12-01-2011, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

General AVR FAQ

Introduction

This is an attempt to cover some basics of the modern AVR (Audio/Video receiver). This type of receiver is also known as a home theater receiver.

Just wanted to thank you for writing up this FAQ! Most of the basics I already knew but the different methods of DECODING and CODING was great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

- This is a pair of RCA jacks usually color coded red (for the right channel) and white for the white channel.

Not sure if this was a typo but don't you mean to say white (for the left channel)?
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post #380 of 408 Old 12-01-2011, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaramill View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

- This is a pair of RCA jacks usually color coded red (for the right channel) and white for the white channel.

Not sure if this was a typo but don't you mean to say white (for the left channel)?

Michael was probably just influenced by the words of the song As We Stumble Along [from The Drowsy Chaperone] . . . which contains the lines:
"Then we stumble away through dawn's blinding sun beams.
Barely knowing right from right nor left from wrong."

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post #381 of 408 Old 12-03-2011, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundChex View Post

Michael was probably just influenced by the words of the song As We Stumble Along [from The Drowsy Chaperone] . . . which contains the lines:
"Then we stumble away through dawn's blinding sun beams.
Barely knowing right from right nor left from wrong."


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post #382 of 408 Old 12-10-2011, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

A 100x7 watt AVR measured may put out less than 50 watts per channel with all channels driven. Some AVRs, such as those from Harmon Kardon, are measured with all channels driven. When compared to an AVR in the same price range, they will have lower power.

and

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

Should you favor AVRs measured with all channels driven? Not necessarily. They will likely be rated lower than a comparably priced AVR which is not ACD rated. For example, Harmon Kardon receivers are measured with all channels driven, and their per channel power is lower than comparably priced receivers for this reason.

When I first read this, I thought you meant that the HKs were under powered in comparison to other receivers in their budget range. Then I looked at this this review of the Harman Kardon AVR 147 and compared it to others at hometheater.com, where the HK clearly exceeds it's all channel rating, whereas many (most) others don't. Does that mean above you are saying that the HK receiver "per channel power specs are lower than comparably priced receivers?" Not that they necessarily have less power, just the rating is such that they appear to.

If that's so, I think those two paragraphs might be confusing to people as stated. And if not, then I'm still confused

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post #383 of 408 Old 12-10-2011, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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What I am saying, and I can see where it could be confusing the way I said it, is that some HK receivers have appeared to have less power than other brands, but when you realize they were rated with all channels driven and the other receivers were not, it levels the playing field.

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post #384 of 408 Old 12-10-2011, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

What I am saying, and I can see where it could be confusing the way I said it, is that some HK receivers have appeared to have less power than other brands, but when you realize they were rated with all channels driven and the other receivers were not, it levels the playing field.

Thanks! That's what I thought after reading the review of that HK.

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post #385 of 408 Old 12-20-2011, 06:41 AM
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I have a Marantz 6004 with stand-floor speakers Canton LE 109. On the back of the speaker is mentioned 4-8 ohms. Do you think the receiver will struggle with these speakers at high volume?

Thanks

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post #386 of 408 Old 12-20-2011, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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No. But you should create a separate post for any questions not directly related to the FAQ.

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post #387 of 408 Old 12-27-2011, 01:52 AM
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Ok Michael, sorry about that. Thanks!

Adi
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post #388 of 408 Old 03-17-2012, 02:49 PM
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I am still setting up my Home system and learning a little bit here and there. Your OP is quite concise,informative and simple enough that even I can sort of understand. I will bookmark here for easy and constant referral.
As we say in Hawaiian
Mahalo Mike,
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post #389 of 408 Old 03-18-2012, 01:47 PM
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Outstanding FAQ.
Thank you Michael.
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post #390 of 408 Old 03-20-2012, 12:10 AM
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Hello,

Sorry I am new to this forum so if this post is way in the wrong place I apologize.

I just purchased a Denon 1912. When I went to set it up today I followed the on screen guide however when I got to speaker setup with the test tones and the mic, the speakers just made this nearly inaudible whistling noise and did not play the test tones. I tried skipping this part of the setup but I could not even get the tuner to play any sound through the speakers.

I am upgrading from an older Denon receiver so I know that the speakers and wiring and all that is in order as that worked just fine.

I have already tried the microprocessor reset which did not change anything. Anyone have any ideas?

If you need more information please let me know.
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