Official Classe SSP-800 thread. - Page 213 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6361 of 6377 Old 01-10-2016, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
I have no idea what is happening. But here's some suggestions. Maybe you have already done them.

1) Send your detailed description to Classe for their feedback.

2) Are all these tests using the same source? If so, try another source (STB vs. DVD) to see if there is consistency of the problem across sources.

3) Try different inputs, HDMI vs S/PDIF (and analog for stereo -- with PLIIx enabled) to see if there is consistency of the problem across inputs.

Let us know.
Got it /Found it /Fixed it !!!!!!!
I have tried different sources and each and all ( TV direct /Blu Ray /Apple TV/
CD ) is normal and functioning perfectly on all modes ,but issue is only with the Satellite decoder input( Roger as always , you are a good sounding board !! )

It is therefore the Sat decoder audio out in DD mode ………changed settings in order it does not output DD and only two channel listening in Prologic llx and everything is back as it should be with no speaker dropouts as well as bottom end
100% .

Appears OK and this is where the issue is and not with the Classe ( takes a while to resolve and eliminate the issues in a system in which there so many parameters that can go wrong ).
Thanks ........this is where the forum works for all .

First point of order is to change the decoder ...bit of a relief!
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post #6362 of 6377 Old 01-15-2016, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alsof1 View Post
Got it /Found it /Fixed it !!!!!!!
I have tried different sources and each and all ( TV direct /Blu Ray /Apple TV/
CD ) is normal and functioning perfectly on all modes ,but issue is only with the Satellite decoder input( Roger as always , you are a good sounding board !! )

It is therefore the Sat decoder audio out in DD mode ………changed settings in order it does not output DD and only two channel listening in Prologic llx and everything is back as it should be with no speaker dropouts as well as bottom end
100% .

Appears OK and this is where the issue is and not with the Classe ( takes a while to resolve and eliminate the issues in a system in which there so many parameters that can go wrong ).
Thanks ........this is where the forum works for all .

First point of order is to change the decoder ...bit of a relief!
Just an update : Changed the HDPVR for as the Audio Output module was faulty causing all the issues ..100 % fixed and also sounding much better on the Input - bit of a relief that nothing wrong with the SSP.
During this process in troubleshooting the fault ,I reverted the SSP80 back to Factory defaults and started from absolute scratch once again( did not save settings and re-install but started from absolute scratch including PEQ ) - got to say that like anything that has firmware , this has done the unit the world of good in my opinion -little software glitches like when changing sub volumes that the Surround output would shut down etc has all gone away .
Also , do not know as to whether I am wrong or not , but seems to sound cleaner/better/fresher .
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post #6363 of 6377 Old 01-15-2016, 01:37 AM
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^^ Here's to smooth sailing.

Deadwood Atmos theater [HTOM]
AV7702 Atmos 7.4.4, SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4
Aerial Acoustics 7B/CC3B fronts, B&W CWM8180 surrounds, Tannoy Di6 DC heights, Hsu ULS-15 subs
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post #6364 of 6377 Old 02-02-2016, 02:59 PM
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Hello there


I have a small question which I do hope someone inhere will be inclined to anser.


I have now owned my ssp 800 cince the beginning of december, and I am quite happy with it! Unfortunatlly though, it allreddy seems as if the batteries in the remote needs replacing, even though I've have only used the thing for a Little over 2 months!
As I am visually impaired, however, I am unable to locate the batterie compartment in order to perform this rather simple tasc. I feel rather stupid for asking this question, because under normal surcamstances with other equipment, I have absolutely no problems feeling my way around various remotes in order to change batteries! On the classé remote, however, I cant seem to find the lid for the batterie-compartment for some strange reason! Can anyone please tell me what I am missing here?


Also, how long would a fresh set of batteries in the classé remote be able to function without need for replacing them? I cannot help thinking that only 2 months is not that long?


All the best from Allan
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post #6365 of 6377 Old 02-02-2016, 11:31 PM
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^^ Hi Allan,

The batteries are accessed through the bottom end of the aluminum extrusion. There is a "D" shaped panel held by 3 screws. The screw heads are "hex" so use the supplied Xcelite hex tool (red plastic handle) that came with the unit.

In my experience the batteries last a very long time, so either yours were weak or maybe something sat on it??

Deadwood Atmos theater [HTOM]
AV7702 Atmos 7.4.4, SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4
Aerial Acoustics 7B/CC3B fronts, B&W CWM8180 surrounds, Tannoy Di6 DC heights, Hsu ULS-15 subs

Last edited by Roger Dressler; 02-03-2016 at 12:31 AM.
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post #6366 of 6377 Old 02-02-2016, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mallanikkelsen View Post
Hello there


I have a small question which I do hope someone inhere will be inclined to anser.


I have now owned my ssp 800 cince the beginning of december, and I am quite happy with it! Unfortunatlly though, it allreddy seems as if the batteries in the remote needs replacing, even though I've have only used the thing for a Little over 2 months!
As I am visually impaired, however, I am unable to locate the batterie compartment in order to perform this rather simple tasc. I feel rather stupid for asking this question, because under normal surcamstances with other equipment, I have absolutely no problems feeling my way around various remotes in order to change batteries! On the classé remote, however, I cant seem to find the lid for the batterie-compartment for some strange reason! Can anyone please tell me what I am missing here?


Also, how long would a fresh set of batteries in the classé remote be able to function without need for replacing them? I cannot help thinking that only 2 months is not that long?



All the best from Allan


Allan ........unlike other lesser plastic remotes there is no slider on the back of the remote to expose the batteries for replacement .
At the bottom end there is a panel with three special head screws ( not Allen screws but similar ) In the carton the unit came in , there is a special key that you use to unscrew the little bolts to remove this panel and insert the batteries .
(No doubt not a unique key if you do not have the original and you can source elsewhere , but do not try and use a screwdriver )

Strange that your batteries have not lasted .Have had my unit for three years and not replaced batteries as yet even though I do not use the Classe remote all the time.

However , I see Mr Dressler has been quick on the draw and already replied ----nevertheless for you info then - the batteries do last a long time .....maybe just a bad batch !!
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post #6367 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 04:44 AM
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Hi Roger


Thanks so much for your reply!


I've now located the three screws at the bottom of the remote. Thanks for telling me about them, as I was not aware that the 3 holes were actually conceeld screws!! They did not feel like screws to me.
Unfortunately though, I have not got the special red Tool to remove the panel handy. I am sure it came with the unit, but I'm afraid that my dealer forgot to pass it along to me when he installed the preamp. So it might still be located in the box for the unit! I'll have to see if I can find it there ASAP by the help of some sighted asistance!!


I too would think that the batteries would last more than 2 months. Very strange indeed. I should think that they have been weak from the get go, as the remote has not been tampered with in any way!!


I asume that there would not be any key pressing combination I have accesed by mistake that would lock the remote in some way? Not that I can think of any strange bottun presses I made before it died.


I am hoaping to have this saulved soon, as it stands now, I am unable to change input without it! Cannot use the touch panel unfortunatlly.


All the best from Allan
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post #6368 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 08:32 AM
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The supplied tool looks like this:



But as mine is packed away, I cannot verify the size. If you have a set of Allen keys, like this, it might have the size you need.


Deadwood Atmos theater [HTOM]
AV7702 Atmos 7.4.4, SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4
Aerial Acoustics 7B/CC3B fronts, B&W CWM8180 surrounds, Tannoy Di6 DC heights, Hsu ULS-15 subs
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post #6369 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 09:01 AM
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Hello Again Roger


Thanks Again for your reply.


I have just located the red Tool you mentioned. It indeed was stored away in the box for the preamp. My Brother and I found it there and was able to replace the batteries!
And yup the remote Works fine now!
Now it is going to be exciting to see for how long it'll Work on fresh batteries. If it dies Again in a 2 months time I suspect that something indeed is wrong with the remote and then I'll contact my dealer! But for now, all is fine!!


And on a conpletely diffrent note:
Perhaps you and other readers of this thred remember that I had a few problems with the SSP loosing the ARC from my Panasonic TV a few months back (you can read about it some further pages back). I can report that this problem has also now been solved!
The trick, in my case ad least is as follows:
Sometimes I power the unit completely Down over night (swiching off on the back of the preamp). In that case ARC is always lost when I come back the Next morning and swiching on the SSP Again onto the TV input. I can rectify this by swiching on the TV and swiching it to the HDMI input that has ARC caberbility. Then when swiching back to a regular tv channel I am getting sound Again from the SSP, strange but true. I am still not getting any surround sound through HDMI/ARC only 2 channel stereo. I Wonder if there is a setting in the TV that is to blame?


All the best from Allan
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post #6370 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 11:23 AM
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I would leave the unit in "standby" when you aren't using it. It was designed to operate that way. When you turn it completely off, it has to reboot and initialize again. I think eventually you are going to run into an issue constantly doing it that way. The power consumption is not that much in standby mode. Just my opinion only.
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post #6371 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 12:09 PM
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post #6372 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 12:42 PM
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Thanks for your oppinion, I appriciate it! What do others think concerning powering Down for the night vs standbye-mode?


All the best from Allan


Quote:
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I would leave the unit in "standby" when you aren't using it. It was designed to operate that way. When you turn it completely off, it has to reboot and initialize again. I think eventually you are going to run into an issue constantly doing it that way. The power consumption is not that much in standby mode. Just my opinion only.
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post #6373 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 05:45 PM
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Has anyone compared the SSP-800 to the new Marantz AV8802 13.2 XLR Pre/Pro
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post #6374 of 6377 Old 02-03-2016, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for your opinion, I appriciate it! What do others think concerning powering Down for the night vs standbye-mode?
I concur with Sharp1080. I only shut it down if I'm gone for a couple weeks. Then I unplug it in case there's a lightning storm.

Deadwood Atmos theater [HTOM]
AV7702 Atmos 7.4.4, SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4
Aerial Acoustics 7B/CC3B fronts, B&W CWM8180 surrounds, Tannoy Di6 DC heights, Hsu ULS-15 subs
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post #6375 of 6377 Old 02-04-2016, 02:59 PM
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Any news on a new SSP-800 replacement?
I was wondering the same thing!
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post #6376 of 6377 Old 02-04-2016, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
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I concur with Sharp1080. I only shut it down if I'm gone for a couple weeks. Then I unplug it in case there's a lightning storm.
As members advised , the unit is not designed for shutting down every day , but designed to be put in to Standby as the name implies , ready to function at its best immediately .
Besides , the unit reaches thermal equilibrium when On and Standby mode ,ensures this is maintained .
Switching the unit off will result in components cooling down and taking a few hours to reach thermal equilibrium and to sound at its best again .

All in all ......a no brainer - Standby is what has to be used
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post #6377 of 6377 Old Today, 12:54 PM
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As members advised , the unit is not designed for shutting down every day , but designed to be put in to Standby as the name implies , ready to function at its best immediately .
Besides , the unit reaches thermal equilibrium when On and Standby mode ,ensures this is maintained .
Switching the unit off will result in components cooling down and taking a few hours to reach thermal equilibrium and to sound at its best again .

All in all ......a no brainer - Standby is what has to be used


You also risk a chance of the unit failing prematurely. Alsof1 is absolutely correct, it's designed to reach optimum temperature and stay that way. From what I have read in the past most failures of electronic components are at powering up the device. It's the constant heating and cooling that cause failure. The radio dispatch system that was at the fire station I worked at before retiring was/is on 24/7 365 days a year.
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