Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs - Page 458 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13711 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 04:09 PM
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Yeah, I'm aware....just never got around to it.

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post #13712 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
Have you seen the graphs I have posted in the last few days on this thread? Is this something I would want to smooth with a manual EQ?
Perhaps. or close the doors.

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post #13713 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jim19611961 View Post
Perhaps. or close the doors.
Well, what I am getting at is would it sound better in the system with the hump smoothed out to match the rest of the frequency response. Being that it is so low it may never be noticed, or it may be beneficial since I am mostly HT? I just have not seen anybody elses graphs with this issue. Not sure what to do about it

I wish I could close some doors but being its in the living room that cant happen. Only open hallway to kitchen in there.
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post #13714 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
Well, what I am getting at is would it sound better in the system with the hump smoothed out to match the rest of the frequency response. Being that it is so low it may never be noticed, or it may be beneficial since I am mostly HT? I just have not seen anybody elses graphs with this issue. Not sure what to do about it

I wish I could close some doors but being its in the living room that cant happen. Only open hallway to kitchen in there.
The hump at 10Hz is unusual. If not caused by some sort of mechanical vibration in your home, then maybe it is a defective mic. I am unaware of many subs that would be causing that hump. Can you actually hear that something is amiss? Maybe you should ask your question to MiniDSP support. No one here seems to have an answer for you here.
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post #13715 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
The hump at 10Hz is unusual. If not caused by some sort of mechanical vibration in your home, then maybe it is a defective mic. I am unaware of many subs that would be causing that hump. Can you actually hear that something is amiss? Maybe you should ask your question to MiniDSP support. No one here seems to have an answer for you here.
Yeah you would think the mic is at fault. But lookl at these I did in my bedroom which I can close the door and seal it off. The hump goes away. Open the door and it comes back. Weird haha

Red line is doors open
Black line doors closed

These are unsmoothed measurements
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post #13716 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
Yeah you would think the mic is at fault. But lookl at these I did in my bedroom which I can close the door and seal it off. The hump goes away. Open the door and it comes back. Weird haha

Red line is doors open
Black line doors closed

These are unsmoothed measurements
Maybe a mechanical noise somewhere? If you can't hear it, I wouldn't worry.
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post #13717 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
Yeah you would think the mic is at fault. But lookl at these I did in my bedroom which I can close the door and seal it off. The hump goes away. Open the door and it comes back. Weird haha

Red line is doors open
Black line doors closed

These are unsmoothed measurements
Almost looks like your door is acting like a port for your room tuned to that frequency. Though it's kind of ugly what it's doing to the rest of the FR...
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post #13718 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 09:36 PM
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Guys, I can't see how to open the UMIK-1 up, what am I missing? Sorry for the question, just very curious.
Thanks
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post #13719 of 13727 Old 02-27-2015, 09:48 PM
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Guys, I can't see how to open the UMIK-1 up, what am I missing? Sorry for the question, just very curious.
Thanks
Look at the end of the U!IK-1, where the USB cable plugs in. The whole end of the mic simply un-screws. There are two small holes along the edge of the removable end. If you use a small pointed device like a paper clip or push pin, you can use these holes to help rotate the end out far enough so that you can finish removing the end with your fingers.

Once the end us unscrewed, gently pull the end away from the case. The PCB is attached to the end. Several wires extend from the other end of the PCB up into the mic barrel. Be very careful not to pull too hard and damage the wires.
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post #13720 of 13727 Old Yesterday, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Look at the end of the U!IK-1, where the USB cable plugs in. The whole end of the mic simply un-screws. There are two small holes along the edge of the removable end. If you use a small pointed device like a paper clip or push pin, you can use these holes to help rotate the end out far enough so that you can finish removing the end with your fingers.

Once the end us unscrewed, gently pull the end away from the case. The PCB is attached to the end. Several wires extend from the other end of the PCB up into the mic barrel. Be very careful not to pull too hard and damage the wires.
Thanks Jerry, I thought the little indents had something to do with it but I wanted to make sure before I did something stupid. I have the miniDSP mic so I should be looking for a 12 dB gain setting, factory default? TIA
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post #13721 of 13727 Old Yesterday, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post
Thanks Jerry, I thought the little indents had something to do with it but I wanted to make sure before I did something stupid. I have the miniDSP mic so I should be looking for a 12 dB gain setting, factory default? TIA
Mine was 12dB, yes.
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post #13722 of 13727 Old Yesterday, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post
I have the miniDSP mic so I should be looking for a 12 dB gain setting, factory default? TIA
Newer ones are 18dB. Don't change the settings if you don't have a calibrator. If you're unsure contact miniDSP support with your mic's serial number.

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post #13723 of 13727 Old Yesterday, 02:26 PM
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Mine is 18db.

I would think that altering this would throw off the noise floor measurement, and that there is an interplay with the sensitivity factor, is that right?
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post #13724 of 13727 Old Yesterday, 02:35 PM
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^
That is correct. The sensitivity factor is (also) based on the hardware gain setting. Don't change it or the calibration will be off.
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post #13725 of 13727 Old Yesterday, 04:14 PM
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^^^
Iv read several posts, including a reply from minidsp, that says its OK to change the umik gain thru the dip switches, as long as you adjust the sensitivity factor in your calibration file according to how much you adjust the gain. For example, my umik came at 18db gain. I was running out of headroom so changed the gain via the dip switches to 12db gain setting. My original sensitivity was -1.79 I believe, so I changed it to -7.79 in the calibration file to compensate for the 6 db difference in the gain when lowering from 18 to 12. I posted several graphs a few posts back that show not much if any difference in the measurements between the 12 and 18db gain settings so the mic appears accurate after changing the gain setting. You just have to change the sensitivity factor in the cal file. The only benefit of this appears to be an increase in headroom before the mic clips.

Last edited by mattdub1; Yesterday at 04:18 PM.
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post #13726 of 13727 Unread Yesterday, 06:43 PM
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An interesting comparison of my current system with and without Audyssey XT32.

There is also some impressive room gain happening here with the little corner-loaded Velodyne VX-10, plus a little Dynamic EQ sprinkled on top. I realize that for posting future measurements I should have DEQ off. Overall, XT32 it did a decent job bringing up some lows and taming some peaks. I need to figure out what is killing my 400-600Hz region, but I'm not going to go to great lengths just yet. Reason is that the speakers and sub are changing within the next month so this was just getting the new AVR all ready for them in advance. When you're within the return window on speakers/subs, you don't want to have AVR problems. Once I have the new speakers and subs and after I've moved, I'll get more serious with this.

I decided to use dark colors for OFF, and bright colors for ON. These were done at -20 on my X4000 which gives a headroom of about 10db. They are 85db sensitivity speakers. All settings following AustinJerry's guide, which has been a great help. CSL UMIK-1, HDMI.

Left speaker. Dark red is Audyssey OFF, bright red is Audyssey ON
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Right speaker. Dark blue is Audyssey OFF, light blue is Audyssey ON
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One last thing. I can't get my AVR to display MULTICH IN. It's in Stereo, and I can change it to all kinds of other things, but not MULTICH IN. It does default to MULTICH IN for my PS3, but not my Chromecast or my PC. I doubt this will be a problem for Left, Right and Sub measurements but it deviates a bit from Jerry's guide.

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*Under Construction*
From: AVR-1910, Infinity P362, Velodyne VX-10
To: AVR-X4000, Chane A3rx-c, Rythmik L12 (2)
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post #13727 of 13727 Unread Today, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattdub1 View Post
^^^
Iv read several posts, including a reply from minidsp, that says its OK to change the umik gain thru the dip switches, as long as you adjust the sensitivity factor in your calibration file according to how much you adjust the gain. For example, my umik came at 18db gain. I was running out of headroom so changed the gain via the dip switches to 12db gain setting. My original sensitivity was -1.79 I believe, so I changed it to -7.79 in the calibration file to compensate for the 6 db difference in the gain when lowering from 18 to 12. I posted several graphs a few posts back that show not much if any difference in the measurements between the 12 and 18db gain settings so the mic appears accurate after changing the gain setting. You just have to change the sensitivity factor in the cal file. The only benefit of this appears to be an increase in headroom before the mic clips.
Correct. You need to change the sens factor in the calibration file the exact same amount you've changed the hardware gain setting. This will retain level calibration.

Markus

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