Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs - Page 459 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13741 of 13750 Old Today, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
If you're using stereo RCA cables to your AVR, you can just disconnect one of the cables at a time.
If your speakers allow it, banana plugs might be a good option at this point.
I am using banana plugs running from speakers to AVR. I have a XPA5 that should be showing up today, which should make things easier to get to once in the system.

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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I agree. Unplugging speaker wires is dangerous. The only time this might be necessary when using the Java drivers is when a subs-only measurement is required, unless you are driving the main speakers with an external amp, in which case you can simply turn the amp off.
Well I assume you mean bare speaker wires, which I am using plugs. I try to run most of my sweeps without the speakers playing at the same time, for example (right speaker + subs) then left+subs, then overlay my measurements like it says to do in this thread for sweeps, unless doing a waterfall graph or running subs only. Without having the ASIO driver thats all I can do. It sucks. Would definitely be convenient to just shut the speakers off via the laptop.
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post #13742 of 13750 Old Today, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
I am using banana plugs running from speakers to AVR. I have a XPA5 that should be showing up today, which should make things easier to get to once in the system.



Well I assume you mean bare speaker wires, which I am using plugs. I try to run most of my sweeps without the speakers playing at the same time, for example (right speaker + subs) then left+subs, then overlay my measurements like it says to do in this thread for sweeps, unless doing a waterfall graph or running subs only. Without having the ASIO driver thats all I can do. It sucks. Would definitely be convenient to just shut the speakers off via the laptop.
You can run a measurement like right+ subs without unplugging a speaker cable. With Java, you should be using a Y-cable into the left and right RCA connections on your AVR. Simply unplug one side of the Y-cable. Or perhaps you already know this.
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post #13743 of 13750 Old Today, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
An interesting comparison of my current system with and without Audyssey XT32.

There is also some impressive room gain happening here with the little corner-loaded Velodyne VX-10, plus a little Dynamic EQ sprinkled on top. I realize that for posting future measurements I should have DEQ off. Overall, XT32 it did a decent job bringing up some lows and taming some peaks. I need to figure out what is killing my 400-600Hz region, but I'm not going to go to great lengths just yet. Reason is that the speakers and sub are changing within the next month so this was just getting the new AVR all ready for them in advance. When you're within the return window on speakers/subs, you don't want to have AVR problems. Once I have the new speakers and subs and after I've moved, I'll get more serious with this.

I decided to use dark colors for OFF, and bright colors for ON. These were done at -20 on my X4000 which gives a headroom of about 10db. They are 85db sensitivity speakers. All settings following AustinJerry's guide, which has been a great help. CSL UMIK-1, HDMI.

Left speaker. Dark red is Audyssey OFF, bright red is Audyssey ON
Attachment 575537

Right speaker. Dark blue is Audyssey OFF, light blue is Audyssey ON
Attachment 575545

One last thing. I can't get my AVR to display MULTICH IN. It's in Stereo, and I can change it to all kinds of other things, but not MULTICH IN. It does default to MULTICH IN for my PS3, but not my Chromecast or my PC. I doubt this will be a problem for Left, Right and Sub measurements but it deviates a bit from Jerry's guide.

Attachment 575553
Instead of explaining which one is Audyssey by using color, why not use description instead? When you click on image icon in REW, it shows a box where it allows you to type. There you can type something like Blue=Audyssey, Green= No RC.

Do you have Auto on your avr? If you have your source set to PCM, you can leave your avr to Auto (at least in my case and I have Marantz SR 6007).
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post #13744 of 13750 Old Today, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
One last thing. I can't get my AVR to display MULTICH IN. It's in Stereo, and I can change it to all kinds of other things, but not MULTICH IN. It does default to MULTICH IN for my PS3, but not my Chromecast or my PC. I doubt this will be a problem for Left, Right and Sub measurements but it deviates a bit from Jerry's guide.
For the AVR to switch to MULTICH IN mode, it needs to be detecting a multi-channel source signal. It is possible that your PC does not support multi-channel. For example, I have a 3-4 year old laptop that I use, and it only supports two-channel, so I get Stereo. Perhaps this is your case as well?

I believe you can determine whether your PC supports multi-channel by exploring the properties of your audio output device in Windows. If it doesn't, no need to worry. REW can be reasonably functional using Stereo mode.
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post #13745 of 13750 Old Today, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
Would definitely be convenient to just shut the speakers off via the laptop.
You can try this:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
The Copy command can be used to get one channel at a time:
Copy: L=0.0
will output just the right channel (by turning off the left).
If your laptop is HDMI, you can get just the center channel with
Copy: C=L L=0.0 R=0.0
You just change the config file as needed, and save it.
Easy once you get the hang of it.
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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #13746 of 13750 Old Today, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mattdub1 View Post
thanks I appreciate your help. I opened the mic and flipped the 3 switches the opposite way, plugged it back in, and windows device manager still says gain is 18db...strange?
Interesting that windows does not report the change in gain when changing the dip switches. The Massive Clipped thread lead me to believe that it did. If I could get my UMIK opened without damaging, I would experiment and validate. It's an USB device and would hope Windows could reflect the internal settings of the dip switches.
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post #13747 of 13750 Old Today, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Saril View Post
Interesting that windows does not report the change in gain when changing the dip switches. The Massive Clipped thread lead me to believe that it did. If I could get my UMIK opened without damaging, I would experiment and validate. It's an USB device and would hope Windows could reflect the internal settings of the dip switches.
I believe someone reported that a reboot is required for Windows to display the new gain setting.
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post #13748 of 13750 Old Today, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rod2486 View Post
Yeah I hear no bad sounds. Being that me and the Cross spectrum tech couldnt see why my living room would produce a hump like this given the room measurements, he told me if possible, go to a room I can seal off and see what response I get. Was really shocked to see the flat response with the door shut.



Yeah kinda seems like it is. Same thing with my living room that has an opening to the kitchen. Lugging the sub in the bedroom I had only one spot to place it and it certainly wasnt optimal. Kinda closer to the middle of the room. I knew the graph would be ugly somewhere. But, they both looked good up until 40+. I just was testing for whats happening down low. I really thought the UMIK was at fault for this, but I am not sure now.

This REW thing has been a blessing and a curse. Still can;t get the ASIO driver to work, so I am stuck with the Java driver and having to unplug my speakers all the time to run sweeps. It is getting quite old. Then I get hit with some weird room anomaly. Cant win haha

Rod, going back and looking at your graphs... I have a very similar thing going on in my room as well. I have 3 Cap S2's in ~840cubes and the FR is very flat w/o EQ down to ~4hz. If I open the door, I get about a 8-9dB gain at 7hz, iirc. Oddly enough, If I seal the room even further (weather stripping at the bottom of the door/around the window) the gain is back, although I believe it was a little higher up.. 10-11hz but with ~6-7dB of gain. I wish I would have saved these graphs for you, but I didn't.


If you want to check to see if it's something to do with Jeff's DSP, you can simply hit the "program" button next to the "mute" button. Unlike the Seaton subs, Jeff only uses 1 program. Program 2 on the Seaton subs gives ~3dB of boost down low iirc, but on our subs it should just turn the DSP off. You may want to check in the JTR thread or call Jeff to confirm.


Also.. and possibly most importantly. I didn't see an answer to the poster's question directly after your initial post with your subs FR. He asked if it could have been a resonance from an HVAC or heating system. Did you have heat/ac running when you did these sweeps?? What is VERY suspicious to me is the fact that the 10-11hz hump is present EVEN in your speakers full range graphs without the subs on! I suspect it's something to do with the resonant frequency of your floor or heating/cooling system. Good luck with everything, I hope you can figure out what's going on.
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post #13749 of 13750 Old Today, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
For the AVR to switch to MULTICH IN mode, it needs to be detecting a multi-channel source signal. It is possible that your PC does not support multi-channel. For example, I have a 3-4 year old laptop that I use, and it only supports two-channel, so I get Stereo. Perhaps this is your case as well?

I believe you can determine whether your PC supports multi-channel by exploring the properties of your audio output device in Windows. If it doesn't, no need to worry. REW can be reasonably functional using Stereo mode.
It's Nvidia High Definition audio with 8 channels supported. Even with just stereo, it should still be PCM so I'm not too worried. Unless you can think of any problems it might cause?
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post #13750 of 13750 Unread Today, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I believe someone reported that a reboot is required for Windows to display the new gain setting.
They stated that the driver had to be uninstalled and reinstalled to get windows to update the correct value.

I could easily live with the reboot, the driver issue is what is the PITA. In any event, it's now clear that what windows shows for the gain, should absolutely match the dip switch settings for the UMIK.

Thanks to mattdub1, we now know there is a way to get windows to show the correct gain setting for the UMIK. I have wondered if the tiny dip switches could be jarred, due to shipping, such that one of them changes state which would negate the calibration with the current sensitivity setting.

Also, from BassThatHz, in the Massive Clipping thread:

The stock umik is only good for 42dbC to 106dbC, outside that range it will be clipping or inaccurate (unless you change the gain.)
At -18db gain it is about 5dbC too high in a quiet room, but with a 1khz sinewave it will be pretty much bang-on.


This gives some insight as to how noise floor is related to the gain and sensitivity factor.
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