Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs - Page 535 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
I only had about 30 minutes to look at this, but here's a bit of a workaround. It will require having one channel that you manually "turn off." I used my sub channel and just turned off my sub amp. Anyway, hope this helps.


Open the Audio MIDI Setup utility



Click on the plus, add an aggregate device, then select HDMI. This will give you access to all the channels, but you only want to activate one at a time. Click the "Configure Speakers" button.

In the resulting window, make sure the "Stereo" Button is depressed. This will let you select the channel you want, and you can select from any of the channels available to your AVR. We need to manually turn one of these off, so as I mentioned, I set the "Right Front" to my sub channel, and then turned off my sub amp. Now you can use the "Left Front" to select whichever channel you want. I ran through all the speakers in my setup. Seemed to work.



You'll need to make sure you select the aggregate device in REW. Whenever you want to change channels, you'll need to go to the MIDI Setup utility and select the channel you want. Not much different than Soundflower.

That's the best I can do for now.


EDIT: BTW, I ran a few sweeps and had no pops or buzzing.
Wow, thanks J_P_A! I will have to try that ASAP. I was so focused on trying to find a multi-channel out solution I didn't even think to try just cycling through channels as stereo. You are a gentleman and a scholar!
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:59 AM
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Writing an app to do this is on my to-do list. Sadly, it's near the bottom of a very long list, so I don't expect to get to it any time soon.

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Old 09-07-2015, 02:56 PM
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Are there any video on how to use this Room EQ Wizard software and interpret the results to make the EQ changes necessary to improve the sound?

I found these

http://www.gikacoustics.com/room-eq-wizard-tutorial/


anything better than these!

Last edited by wse; 09-07-2015 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:45 PM
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Are there any video on how to use this Room EQ Wizard software and interpret the results to make the EQ changes necessary to improve the sound?
https://mehlau.net/audio/room-correction-peq/

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Old 09-08-2015, 07:53 AM
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So, I got the 30Hz HPF to protect my sub (http://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossover...ords=30Hz+fmod). I thought things sounded better by ear. However, the data from REW suggests it changed things but not necessarily better overall.
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UN46EH6030 Calibration/Settings
Samsung UN46EH6030; Yamaha HTR-3066, SVS Prime Bookshelf Mains and Prime Center, Rythmik LV12R; PS4, Xbox One, Motorola RNG150N

Last edited by PlasmaPZ80U; 09-08-2015 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:06 AM
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It sounds better because the low frequencies, that were distorting, are now attenuated somewhat. If you can reduce that peak at 47ish, you'll notice a real improvement.
Michael

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Old 09-08-2015, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
So, I got the 30Hz HPF to protect my sub (http://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossover...ords=30Hz+fmod). I thought things sounded better by ear. However, the data from REW suggests it changed things but not necessarily better overall.
you'd find it easier to see the difference if you show the all spl graph and either measure at the same level or adjust the spl (using the controls on the all spl view) to align the output around 80Hz or so.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
It sounds better because the low frequencies, that were distorting, are now attenuated somewhat. If you can reduce that peak at 47ish, you'll notice a real improvement.
Michael
Leaving aside the audibility of that sort of change, the apparent change in distortion level could be because the overall level is down or it could be because of the filter or it could just be an artefact of the noise floor in the room.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:19 AM
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I literally measured with the exact same settings on AVR and REW, once with filter attached and once with filter removed. Any differences shown are a direct result of the filter. I attached an SPL comparison below:
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UN46EH6030 Calibration/Settings
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:24 AM
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And FYI, this is LFE channel so no interaction between sub and other speaker(s).

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Old 09-08-2015, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
I literally measured with the exact same settings on AVR and REW, once with filter attached and once with filter removed. Any differences shown are a direct result of the filter. I attached an SPL comparison below:
right so the filter is reducing the overall level a bit as well, the point remains that to really see the actual rolloff you want to normalise magnitudes at some point higher up the range
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
right so the filter is reducing the overall level a bit as well, the point remains that to really see the actual rolloff you want to normalise magnitudes at some point higher up the range
how do I do this?

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Old 09-08-2015, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
how do I do this?
Click the control cog on the all SPL screen, there is an option to offset the SPL for a particular trace. You can choose whether to just offset the trace on the graph or actually apply the scaling to the measurement.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:49 AM
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Nyal has put together an interesting article dealing with reflections that discusses ETC graphs and their usefulness.

Main article:
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/early-reflections-101/

Links from that article to more info on ETC:
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/roo...surements-101/
http://www.hifizine.com/2011/12/list...gy-time-curve/
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:21 PM
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Any other suggestions anyone can give regarding getting some communication between my laptop and AVR going via HDMI? I've been unable to use REW for 2 weeks now and being at this standstill is frustrating. With the HDMI connected between my laptop and AVR via AUX, I get my laptop wallpaper image displayed on my TV so clearly connectivity is working to some degree. Still can't get any output though when trying to measure in REW, run pink noise, etc.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:38 PM
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Have you tried using Java instead of ASIO?

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Old 09-08-2015, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Nyal has put together an interesting article dealing with reflections that discusses ETC graphs and their usefulness.

Main article:
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/early-reflections-101/

Links from that article to more info on ETC:
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/roo...surements-101/
http://www.hifizine.com/2011/12/list...gy-time-curve/

Thanks for posting these links. Some very informative info (especially in the hifizine.com link). I know we've debated how to use band-pass filtered ETC's in the past so this was very useful.


Jerry: IMHO, it's worth considering some minor revisions to the guide (in particular the ETC section) wrt best practice (e.g. down -20dB) as well as adding some consideration for the importance of spectral balance but just my $.02.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:58 PM
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Have you tried using Java instead of ASIO?

+1 Unless you're in need of surround measurements, the Java driver is rock solid and I never have any issues. In case it's not clear, you don't need to connect your laptop any differently to your AVR. You just need to assign the Java driver in the preferences of REW.
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Old 09-08-2015, 02:22 PM
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+1 Unless you're in need of surround measurements, the Java driver is rock solid and I never have any issues. In case it's not clear, you don't need to connect your laptop any differently to your AVR. You just need to assign the Java driver in the preferences of REW.
I would like to add that if it still doesn't work using HDMI, the connection to the AVR can be made using a simple 3.5mm to RCA cable coming from the headphone outputs on the laptop. This alternative method is described in the guide as well. The question for the OP is--do you want to continue beating your head against the wall trying to get HDMI to work, or is it more important to get REW working with a reasonable alternative connection method?
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Old 09-08-2015, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post
Thanks for posting these links. Some very informative info (especially in the hifizine.com link). I know we've debated how to use band-pass filtered ETC's in the past so this was very useful.


Jerry: IMHO, it's worth considering some minor revisions to the guide (in particular the ETC section) wrt best practice (e.g. down -20dB) as well as adding some consideration for the importance of spectral balance but just my $.02.
I need to read the Nayal information.
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:10 PM
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Any other suggestions anyone can give regarding getting some communication between my laptop and AVR going via HDMI?
I had a BluRay player that had a setting to turn off audio via HDMI. Don't understand the utility of that function but maybe your laptop has a similar setting.

Similarly, PS3/4 can turn off audio via HDMI and only play audio via the other type of connection. Maybe that's what's going on.

But I agree with @AustinJerry . Figure the HDMI stuff out later and start measuring. My laptop doesn't have HDMI so I've never used it.
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post
Thanks for posting these links. Some very informative info (especially in the hifizine.com link). I know we've debated how to use band-pass filtered ETC's in the past so this was very useful.


Jerry: IMHO, it's worth considering some minor revisions to the guide (in particular the ETC section) wrt best practice (e.g. down -20dB) as well as adding some consideration for the importance of spectral balance but just my $.02.
What I bolded is key.

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Old 09-08-2015, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
you'd find it easier to see the difference if you show the all spl graph and either measure at the same level or adjust the spl (using the controls on the all spl view) to align the output around 80Hz or so.
done at 80Hz:
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UN46EH6030 Calibration/Settings
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:38 PM
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What I bolded is key.
Jim, I figured you might chime in.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I would like to add that if it still doesn't work using HDMI, the connection to the AVR can be made using a simple 3.5mm to RCA cable coming from the headphone outputs on the laptop. This alternative method is described in the guide as well. The question for the OP is--do you want to continue beating your head against the wall trying to get HDMI to work, or is it more important to get REW working with a reasonable alternative connection method?
I just ordered a cable since I don't have on. Was only like $3 shipped from monoprice. I'll continue to mess with the HDMI in the meantime, but at least another option is on its way.
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:20 AM
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done at 80Hz:
so it seems to me that all you've really achieved is made it a bit quieter overall and rolled off the v low end by a few dB. I would have thought that all you're really hearing at the moment is those 2 peaks so I doubt this is a meaningful change (i.e. I would think you would achieve much the same effect by just cutting the sw channel trim by a few dB). What is your plan to fix those 2 peaks?
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
done at 80Hz:
so it seems to me that all you've really achieved is made it a bit quieter overall and rolled off the v low end by a few dB. I would have thought that all you're really hearing at the moment is those 2 peaks so I doubt this is a meaningful change (i.e. I would think you would achieve much the same effect by just cutting the sw channel trim by a few dB). What is your plan to fix those 2 peaks?
Well, I'm returning the part based on its disappointing performance. As for the peaks, I plan on getting a MiniDSP at some point. However, I'm saving up for a better subwoofer first. In the $500 to $600 range, since I don't want to keep upgrading from one cheaper sub to another. Something like the Rythmik LV12R or RBH I-12.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:04 AM
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Well, I'm returning the part based on its disappointing performance. As for the peaks, I plan on getting a MiniDSP at some point. However, I'm saving up for a better subwoofer first. In the $500 to $600 range, since I don't want to keep upgrading from one cheaper sub to another. Something like the Rythmik LV12R or RBH I-12.
I thought you wanted better Get this: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7099

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Old 09-09-2015, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Well, I'm returning the part based on its disappointing performance. As for the peaks, I plan on getting a MiniDSP at some point. However, I'm saving up for a better subwoofer first. In the $500 to $600 range, since I don't want to keep upgrading from one cheaper sub to another. Something like the Rythmik LV12R or RBH I-12.
I thought you wanted better Get this: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7099
I don't want to go the DIY route.

And I think a 12-inch sub is big enough for my 1152 cubic foot room (12 by 12 by 8 feet).

Plus that California Prop 65 warning concerns me since other brands don't have it like my Sony or Cambridge speakers.
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:30 AM
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Very useful information. Thanks!
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