Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs - Page 655 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19621 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 1201 View Post
hey, your measurement looks like the AVR (or bass amp) is already applying a roll off on the sub starting around 80hz. have you checked to make sure this is not happening?

it could mess with your measurements. Ideally you want to set everything flat
I had EQ turned off and was using LFE input to sub while taking all measurements (other than the ones that say with EQ). You're saying the measurements with the EQ on look like a rolloff is happening past 80hz?

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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
@citsur86

I would ask more about this in the Rythmik thread and email Brian too.

Even if do want to use an LPF built into the target line of the REW EQ tool, the one you made yesterday is far too aggressive in my opinion. You will likely notice a lot of impact missing in the midbass region as everything past 60Hz or so will be a lot quieter in the LFE channel and even the speakers in the crossover region will sound thinner/leaner.

If you are concerned about your sub making a bad noise near it's upper extension use the Line In input with crossover knob on sub at 120Hz (max) and LPF slope switch at 12dB. This will stay flat to 100Hz and then filter out most stuff above that in the interest of (potentially) better SQ.
I created the filter I did using the guide. When I clicked the Set Target Level button, that filter is what it did - didn't mean to make it too aggressive. I see what you all mean now - the area past 80hz is considerable lower volume. I played with the target settings and it looks like filter i created had the crossover set to 24db/oct. If I switch it to 12db/oct, it still corrects the initial peak, but keeps the slope past the 80hz mark consistent as it was pre-EQ. Should I try this? Photos of what I mean below. I'll ask in Rythmik thread as well.

24db/octave Crossover:


12db/octave Crossover:

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post #19622 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 08:50 AM
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Here's what mine looks like:

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post #19623 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
I had EQ turned off and was using LFE input to sub while taking all measurements (other than the ones that say with EQ). You're saying the measurements with the EQ on look like a rolloff is happening past 80hz?



I created the filter I did using the guide. When I clicked the Set Target Level button, that filter is what it did - didn't mean to make it too aggressive. I see what you all mean now - the area past 80hz is considerable lower volume. I played with the target settings and it looks like filter i created had the crossover set to 24db/oct. If I switch it to 12db/oct, it still corrects the initial peak, but keeps the slope past the 80hz mark consistent as it was pre-EQ. Should I try this? Photos of what I mean below. I'll ask in Rythmik thread as well.

24db/octave Crossover:


12db/octave Crossover:

Set your avr lfe filter all the way up on the avr (should VB be separate from the speaker crossover values). Set all that in rew to none, you should see a flat line. That is your target. Once you get a good set of filters to flatten it. Then your avr will do the "bending" so that it slopes down when you set your lfe back to 120hz and your speakers crossed to whatever you decide.

Based on what you posted, set that flat line right at 85db as your target level. Then set it to 0 boost, 0 max boost, 3db.

Apply those filters to the miniDSP.
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Last edited by corradizo; 08-08-2016 at 08:57 AM.
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post #19624 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Set your avr lfe filter all the way up on the avr (should VB be separate from the speaker crossover values). Set all that in rew to none, you should see a flat line. That is your target. Once you get a good set of filters to flatten it. Then your avr will do the "bending" so that it slopes down when you set your lfe back to 120hz and your speakers crossed to whatever you decide.

Based on what you posted, set that flat line right at 85db as your target level. Then set it to 0 boost, 0 max boost, 3db.

Apply those filters to the miniDSP.
OK - I will give this a shot - newbie so need a few more details.
  1. How do I set the AVR LFE Filter all the way up?
  2. What does (should VB be separate from the speaker crossover values) mean?
  3. How do I get a good set of filters?

Edit - I used a file @PlasmaPZ80U sent me last night and see what you meant by setting REW to none (speaker type). So in REW, I have this:



Guess I just need help understanding what you were saying from the AVR side of things now?
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Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15

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post #19625 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
OK - I will give this a shot - newbie so need a few more details.

How do I set the AVR LFE Filter all the way up?
What does (should VB be separate from the speaker crossover values) mean?
Where in REW do I set all that to none?
When you say I should see a flat line, do you mean perfectly horizontal (was a bit confused on what flat meant before)?
In your avr, you should be able to set individual speaker cross ok crossovers to 80hz or whatever. There should be another setting in it somewhere that allows you to adjust the LFE channel crossover. It's normally set to 120hz. The LFE is a separate bass track that only plays through your sub. In addition to that track any bass that is sent to your individual speakers that is Below the speakers crossover point eg. 80hz of whatever, is Also sent to your sub (called bass management). When you send a signal from rew channel 4 using ASIO, you are explicitly sending a signal that is using the LFE track to your sub. In order to see how capable your sub is up high, you want to raise that lfe crossover as high as it will go. THEN you eq your sub flat.

In rew set your speaker to none, dial back the slopes to 0 from 1.8 or wherever they are set stock.

Yes it's actually a flat horizontal line. Your avr's crossover will make it slope.

A good way to test this is to eq as per above. The measure your center (channel 3) with the sub off, then measure your sub with the center disconnected (still using channel 3). You will see the sub will have a slope because in your avr your center channel is set to cross as 80hz ..or wherever you choose.
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post #19626 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
In your avr, you should be able to set individual speaker cross ok crossovers to 80hz or whatever. There should be another setting in it somewhere that allows you to adjust the LFE channel crossover. It's normally set to 120hz. The LFE is a separate bass track that only plays through your sub. In addition to that track any bass that is sent to your individual speakers that is Below the speakers crossover point eg. 80hz of whatever, is Also sent to your sub (called bass management). When you send a signal from rew channel 4 using ASIO, you are explicitly sending a signal that is using the LFE track to your sub. In order to see how capable your sub is up high, you want to raise that lfe crossover as high as it will go. THEN you eq your sub flat.

In rew set your speaker to none, dial back the slopes to 0 from 1.8 or wherever they are set stock.

Yes it's actually a flat horizontal line. Your avr's crossover will make it slope.

A good way to test this is to eq as per above. The measure your center (channel 3) with the sub off, then measure your sub with the center disconnected (still using channel 3). You will see the sub will have a slope because in your avr your center channel is set to cross as 80hz ..or wherever you choose.
OK - does the below set of filters creating the predicted flat response make sense or did I fly off the deep end here.

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post #19627 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 11:30 AM
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Yes, you got it. But that's a ton of filters and it's just for one specific spot in your room.

Now that you are rockin, it's time to take several measurements around where you will sit, then average them using the button in the all spl chart. You will eq that average soon. Before you eq it, study all the measurements you took, overlay them, note where the are similar with regard to peaks you'll need to fix with eq. Note where they are not similar, eq'ing those areas might not be a good idea because boosting a frequency in one spot might make it crazy loud in another. Same goes for cutting.

Now you have a list of areas that are similar that you want to eq. Look again at those areas and click the button to make them minimum phase (dig around to find this in the various charts. It's you see a peak or dip correlating to the frequency you plan to eq, scratch it off the list.

Now load up the averaged graph and go into the eq section. Auto eq now. If you get many filters with a high q, say above 10, reset the eq, smooth the graph to maybe 1/12th. You really just want a handful of filters in the Q of 7 or below range

This is my method, if it's wrong I hope someone will call it out.
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post #19628 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Yes, you got it. But that's a ton of filters and it's just for one specific spot in your room.

Now that you are rockin, it's time to take several measurements around where you will sit, then average them using the button in the all spl chart. You will eq that average soon. Before you eq it, study all the measurements you took, overlay them, note where the are similar with regard to peaks you'll need to fix with eq. Note where they are not similar, eq'ing those areas might not be a good idea because boosting a frequency in one spot might make it crazy loud in another. Same goes for cutting.

Now you have a list of areas that are similar that you want to eq. Look again at those areas and click the button to make them minimum phase (dig around to find this in the various charts. It's you see a peak or dip correlating to the frequency you plan to eq, scratch it off the list.

Now load up the averaged graph and go into the eq section. Auto eq now. If you get many filters with a high q, say above 10, reset the eq, smooth the graph to maybe 1/12th. You really just want a handful of filters in the Q of 7 or below range

This is my method, if it's wrong I hope someone will call it out.
Good post
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post #19629 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
OK - I will give this a shot - newbie so need a few more details.

How do I set the AVR LFE Filter all the way up?
What does (should VB be separate from the speaker crossover values) mean?
Where in REW do I set all that to none?
When you say I should see a flat line, do you mean perfectly horizontal (was a bit confused on what flat meant before)?
In your avr, you should be able to set individual speaker cross ok crossovers to 80hz or whatever. There should be another setting in it somewhere that allows you to adjust the LFE channel crossover. It's normally set to 120hz. The LFE is a separate bass track that only plays through your sub. In addition to that track any bass that is sent to your individual speakers that is Below the speakers crossover point eg. 80hz of whatever, is Also sent to your sub (called bass management). When you send a signal from rew channel 4 using ASIO, you are explicitly sending a signal that is using the LFE track to your sub. In order to see how capable your sub is up high, you want to raise that lfe crossover as high as it will go. THEN you eq your sub flat.

In rew set your speaker to none, dial back the slopes to 0 from 1.8 or wherever they are set stock.

Yes it's actually a flat horizontal line. Your avr's crossover will make it slope.

A good way to test this is to eq as per above. The measure your center (channel 3) with the sub off, then measure your sub with the center disconnected (still using channel 3). You will see the sub will have a slope because in your avr your center channel is set to cross as 80hz ..or wherever you choose.
Only question is what should he do if there is no setting in the AVR for LFE crossover/LPF?
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post #19630 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Only question is what should he do if there is no setting in the AVR for LFE crossover/LPF?
I recommend measuring HDMI3, with the center channel set to "Large", and then disconnected. That will result in a full-range sub measurement, if that is what you want. The LPF for LFE on my equipment (Marantz) only goes to 250Hz (if that makes any difference).
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post #19631 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
the dip in your centre channel response can be filled in, to some extent at least, with the sub but you need to fix its basic response first

this compares it to a 80Hz high pass filter of the sort your AVR applies, you can see there is a 5dB hump above the target around 70Hz and that comes out in your combined measurement. If you pull this down and adjust the timing of the sub a touch then you'll get a more even response through the crossover. You probably have to compromise along the way, I doubt you will be able to get all three bang on.

Hi

If I'm trying to get the sub to fill in that massive dip at about 80hz does that mean I should be using a higher cross over ie 90-100hz? If I'm using a crossover of 80hz doesn't that mean that bass management won't allow the sub to really fill that void?

Thanks
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post #19632 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I recommend measuring HDMI3, with the center channel set to "Large", and then disconnected. That will result in a full-range sub measurement, if that is what you want. The LPF for LFE on my equipment (Marantz) only goes to 250Hz (if that makes any difference).
Thanks Jerry, that would work also. I do it via channel 4 because disconnecting my speakers is a pain. :-)
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post #19633 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I recommend measuring HDMI3, with the center channel set to "Large", and then disconnected. That will result in a full-range sub measurement, if that is what you want. The LPF for LFE on my equipment (Marantz) only goes to 250Hz (if that makes any difference).
I should clarify, I mean what should one do with the AVR is not adding any (fixed or variable) LPF to the LFE channel?

Should one leave things flat or add a 120Hz/12dB/oct LPF to the REW EQ target line?

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post #19634 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Yes, you got it. But that's a ton of filters and it's just for one specific spot in your room.

Now that you are rockin, it's time to take several measurements around where you will sit, then average them using the button in the all spl chart. You will eq that average soon. Before you eq it, study all the measurements you took, overlay them, note where the are similar with regard to peaks you'll need to fix with eq. Note where they are not similar, eq'ing those areas might not be a good idea because boosting a frequency in one spot might make it crazy loud in another. Same goes for cutting.

Now you have a list of areas that are similar that you want to eq. Look again at those areas and click the button to make them minimum phase (dig around to find this in the various charts. It's you see a peak or dip correlating to the frequency you plan to eq, scratch it off the list.

Now load up the averaged graph and go into the eq section. Auto eq now. If you get many filters with a high q, say above 10, reset the eq, smooth the graph to maybe 1/12th. You really just want a handful of filters in the Q of 7 or below range

This is my method, if it's wrong I hope someone will call it out.


Very helpful thanks. I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-44 and I'm not sure if it can set the LFE level (other than raising bass? But I think that's different based on your explanation). I would say even if I can raise LFE, it's not likely i can for individual speakers. It only lets me set a global crossover after all.

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post #19635 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I recommend measuring HDMI3, with the center channel set to "Large", and then disconnected. That will result in a full-range sub measurement, if that is what you want. The LPF for LFE on my equipment (Marantz) only goes to 250Hz (if that makes any difference).


Ah so this effectively does the same, or at least very similar, to raising LFE on the receiver?

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post #19636 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by indus1 View Post
Hi

If I'm trying to get the sub to fill in that massive dip at about 80hz does that mean I should be using a higher cross over ie 90-100hz? If I'm using a crossover of 80hz doesn't that mean that bass management won't allow the sub to really fill that void?

Thanks
there's still plenty of output at 70Hz with an 80Hz crossover
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Ah so this effectively does the same, or at least very similar, to raising LFE on the receiver?
Rather than measuring the LFE channel, which may or may not have a configurable LPF on your AVR, it produces a full-range signal to the subs. I believe someone mentioned this as an objective. Personally, I have little interest in this conversation, since I do not use any EQ on my 2x4.
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post #19638 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 01:19 PM
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Ah so this effectively does the same, or at least very similar, to raising LFE on the receiver?
Yep. If this is easier, go for it.
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post #19639 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Yes, you got it. But that's a ton of filters and it's just for one specific spot in your room.

Now that you are rockin, it's time to take several measurements around where you will sit, then average them using the button in the all spl chart. You will eq that average soon. Before you eq it, study all the measurements you took, overlay them, note where the are similar with regard to peaks you'll need to fix with eq. Note where they are not similar, eq'ing those areas might not be a good idea because boosting a frequency in one spot might make it crazy loud in another. Same goes for cutting.

Now you have a list of areas that are similar that you want to eq. Look again at those areas and click the button to make them minimum phase (dig around to find this in the various charts. It's you see a peak or dip correlating to the frequency you plan to eq, scratch it off the list.

Now load up the averaged graph and go into the eq section. Auto eq now. If you get many filters with a high q, say above 10, reset the eq, smooth the graph to maybe 1/12th. You really just want a handful of filters in the Q of 7 or below range

This is my method, if it's wrong I hope someone will call it out.
Just to make sure I'm 100%, this all happens AFTER I do the other things you mentioned right. So first set of steps are:

1. Unplug center and run sweep on Channel 3 with Mic at MLP with AVR EQ MCACC off.
2. Use filters in REW to completely flatten the response from 15hz - 300hz as best as possible.
3. Upload filters onto MiniDSP 2x4 HD.
4. Run Sweep on Channel 4
5. Should see something similar to Plasmas flatline to 80hz, then sharp drop off?

Then second set of instructions.

1. Run EQ in a few LPs (really just 2, mine and my wife)
2. Average them together.
3. Can you explain the bolded part of your post above? What are the phase lines showing up and then slope down and repeat? What will a peak or dip at a frequency i was going to EQ mean and why would I want to avoid EQing it?
2. Set filters on average line where there are similar frequencies with peaks or dips from different measurements manually to flat.
3. Auto EQ. Check results, replace old filter on miniDSP 2x4HD with this new one.

Thanks for all your help.

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Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #19640 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Just to make sure I'm 100%, this all happens AFTER I do the other things you mentioned right. So first set of steps are:

1. Unplug center and run sweep on Channel 3 with Mic at MLP with AVR EQ MCACC off.
2. Use filters in REW to completely flatten the response from 15hz - 300hz as best as possible.
3. Upload filters onto MiniDSP 2x4 HD.
4. Run Sweep on Channel 4
5. Should see something similar to Plasmas flatline to 80hz, then sharp drop off?

Then second set of instructions.

1. Run EQ in a few LPs (really just 2, mine and my wife)
2. Average them together.
3. Can you explain the bolded part of your post above? What are the phase lines showing up and then slope down and repeat? What will a peak or dip at a frequency i was going to EQ mean and why would I want to avoid EQing it?
2. Set filters on average line where there are similar frequencies with peaks or dips from different measurements manually to flat.
3. Auto EQ. Check results, replace old filter on miniDSP 2x4HD with this new one.

Thanks for all your help.
Just to make sure I'm 100%, this all happens AFTER I do the other things you mentioned right. So first set of steps are:

1. Forget all the channel 4 stuff. The vsx-44 does not have and lfe setting in the menus as far as I can tell from the manual. So this already is not going to work for flattening your subs.

2. Set your speaker crossover to 200hz or as high as it will go. Turn off all mcacc stuff.

3. Unplug center and run sweep on Channel 3 with Mic at MLP. Then move it 4-5 inches in every direction and take a few more sweeps. Go to the other seat area, do the same. Sometimes moving an inch can have a dramatic change... This is why we do this.

4. Average the sweeps

5. Set the flat line like before, probably 85db.

6. User the rew eq like we talked about.

7. Apply to miniDSP.

8. Take some more sweeps and see how you did..ie. is it mostly flat around your listening positions.


Can you explain the bolded part of your post above? What are the phase lines showing up and then slope down and repeat?

Let's work up to answering this one. I'm still working to figure out the phase stuff.

What will a peak or dip at a frequency i was going to EQ mean and why would I want to avoid EQing it?

Some areas called non-minimum phase are not eq-able.

Thanks for all your help.

You bet. This stuff is not easy, I have so much more to learn.
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post #19641 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Just to make sure I'm 100%, this all happens AFTER I do the other things you mentioned right. So first set of steps are:

1. Forget all the channel 4 stuff. The vsx-44 does not have and lfe setting in the menus as far as I can tell from the manual. So this already is not going to work for flattening your subs.

2. Set your speaker crossover to 200hz or as high as it will go. Turn off all mcacc stuff.

3. Unplug center and run sweep on Channel 3 with Mic at MLP. Then move it 4-5 inches in every direction and take a few more sweeps. Go to the other seat area, do the same. Sometimes moving an inch can have a dramatic change... This is why we do this.

4. Average the sweeps

5. Set the flat line like before, probably 85db.

6. User the rew eq like we talked about.

7. Apply to miniDSP.

8. Take some more sweeps and see how you did..ie. is it mostly flat around your listening positions.


Can you explain the bolded part of your post above? What are the phase lines showing up and then slope down and repeat?

Let's work up to answering this one. I'm still working to figure out the phase stuff.

What will a peak or dip at a frequency i was going to EQ mean and why would I want to avoid EQing it?

Some areas called non-minimum phase are not eq-able.

Thanks for all your help.

You bet. This stuff is not easy, I have so much more to learn.
Working on this now. After I send the filter to the miniDSP 2x4 HD, I should run some sweeps with the crossover still at 200Hz (max on my AVR), and with center unplugged on channel 3 right? Then assuming the actual response looks flat, I should plug in the center, change the AVR crossover to 80Hz, and run MCACC and redo sweeps with EQ on right?

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Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #19642 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Working on this now. After I send the filter to the miniDSP 2x4 HD, I should run some sweeps with the crossover still at 200Hz (max on my AVR), and with center unplugged on channel 3 right? Then assuming the actual response looks flat, I should plug in the center, change the AVR crossover to 80Hz, and run MCACC and redo sweeps with EQ on right?
Yes.
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post #19643 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Yes.
Just sent this over to the miniDSP 2x4 HD. Based on average of 7 readings. .mdat here.




Ouch. That did this!

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My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15

Last edited by citsur86; 08-08-2016 at 07:23 PM.
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post #19644 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 07:31 PM
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You are actually with +/- 5db. I'd measure a couple other spots to compare. If you cross at 80hz now it should sound much better. That big dip seems odd, does it show up in most of the graphs?

If you want to try again, in the eq, smooth your graph to 1/12th. Then auto eq again. Set the range to 15hz to 200hz. You should get less filters with lower Q numbers.

I'll checkout your mdat when I can.
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post #19645 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Only question is what should he do if there is no setting in the AVR for LFE crossover/LPF?
I recommend measuring HDMI3, with the center channel set to "Large", and then disconnected. That will result in a full-range sub measurement, if that is what you want. The LPF for LFE on my equipment (Marantz) only goes to 250Hz (if that makes any difference).
I guess I'm a bit confused about how this procedure works... if you measure HDMI3 with center set to large and disconnected, why would the sub get the full range signal?

What am I missing?
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post #19646 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
You are actually with +/- 5db. I'd measure a couple other spots to compare. If you cross at 80hz now it should sound much better. That big dip seems odd, does it show up in most of the graphs?

If you want to try again, in the eq, smooth your graph to 1/12th. Then auto eq again. Set the range to 15hz to 200hz. You should get less filters with lower Q numbers.

I'll checkout your mdat when I can.
I saw that huge dip was at 116.5hz so i set a very high Q and high gain filter there. The results as far as the mic is concerned was good, the result as far as what it actually sounded like was bad! I ran a sweep sitting where the mic was and theres a very distinct raise in volume and buzz that comes from the speaker at that part of the sweep. Strangely, the graph shows it as better response?



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My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #19647 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
You are actually with +/- 5db. I'd measure a couple other spots to compare. If you cross at 80hz now it should sound much better. That big dip seems odd, does it show up in most of the graphs?

If you want to try again, in the eq, smooth your graph to 1/12th. Then auto eq again. Set the range to 15hz to 200hz. You should get less filters with lower Q numbers.

I'll checkout your mdat when I can.
I saw that huge dip was at 116.5hz so i set a very high Q and high gain filter there. The results as far as the mic is concerned was good, the result as far as what it actually sounded like was bad! I ran a sweep sitting where the mic was and theres a very distinct raise in volume and buzz that comes from the speaker at that part of the sweep. Strangely, the graph shows it as better response?



High Q+High Gain filters are the last thing I would do... it will not sound right plus you risk damaging the driver/amp.

If you do boost, keep gain in the 3dB-6dB range and check the sub power led to see if it blinks during loud sounds/REW sweeps, which would indicate the sub amp clipping from too much EQ boost.
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I decided to start over and just try to get a flatline at the MLP. Also I realized I forgot to set the center to large before. However, after I do, no sound comes out of the sub at all while playing channel 3. Any ideas why that might be?

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
High Q+High Gain filters are the last thing I would do... it will not sound right plus you risk damaging the driver/amp.

If you do boost, keep gain in the 3dB-6dB range and check the sub power led to see if it blinks during loud sounds/REW sweeps, which would indicate the sub amp clipping from too much EQ boost.


Yeah I kind of realized once I heard the slightly bad sound that I might just not be able to get a perfectly flat sound with this sub out to 200hz. Not a huge deal since I plan to drop off after 80. Restarting now. I have a better idea of what to do now.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #19650 of 21627 Old 08-08-2016, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
I decided to start over and just try to get a flatline at the MLP. Also I realized I forgot to set the center to large before. However, after I do, no sound comes out of the sub at all while playing channel 3. Any ideas why that might be?
My mistake. The center should be set to small with the highest crossover that can be configured, typically 250Hz. I guess if you can set the LPF for LFE to 250Hz as well, it doesn't matter if you measure HDMI4 or HDMI3.
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