Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs - Page 706 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21151 of 23452 Old 01-17-2017, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Grimm View Post
the TV remains the item in the soundbar of the PC.

If the TV is showing up in the sound control panel, right click on it and disable it. It's probably not a bad idea to disable all inputs besides the mic and all outputs besides the AVR.
Also, a screenshot of your ASIO control panel may be helpful.
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post #21152 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 08:04 AM
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A couple of REW and HDMI questions.
1. Does it matter which of my AVR's HDMI IN ports I use to connect to the laptop (with REW)?
2. I intend to use a nanoAVR HD to "hold and apply" the corrections that I will make with REW. I have the nanoAVR HD, but I haven't used ever. Should I first hookup the nanoAVR HD and then make the REW measurements?
a. I was thinking that perhaps it was needed in the chain first, because of any delays it might cause due to processing. But maybe the delay will be the same for all channels, so it isn't needed first.
b. If I first hook up the nanoAVR HD, I presume that I: laptop==HDMI===nanoAVR HD===HDMI===AVR. Correct?

Thanks muchly!

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post #21153 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post
A couple of REW and HDMI questions.
1. Does it matter which of my AVR's HDMI IN ports I use to connect to the laptop (with REW)?
2. I intend to use a nanoAVR HD to "hold and apply" the corrections that I will make with REW. I have the nanoAVR HD, but I haven't used ever. Should I first hookup the nanoAVR HD and then make the REW measurements?
a. I was thinking that perhaps it was needed in the chain first, because of any delays it might cause due to processing. But maybe the delay will be the same for all channels, so it isn't needed first.
b. If I first hook up the nanoAVR HD, I presume that I: laptop==HDMI===nanoAVR HD===HDMI===AVR. Correct?

Thanks muchly!
1. No, any HDMI input is fine.
2. REW does not "make corrections", it only measures, so I don't know what you mean by this. If the NanoAVR is reset to factory defaults, then it should not be altering the signal, so its presence has no effect on the REW measurements. If, however, you have configured the NanoAVR to apply EQ to the signal, then of course it will affect the REQ measurements. I am not familiar with the NanoAVR, but I believe it connects in the signal chain prior to the AVR. If this is correct, then connecting REW to the AVR will bypass any signal enhancements happening in the NanoAVR, suggesting that REW probably needs to be connected to the NanoAVR rather than the AVR. I defer to other thread participants who may have more experience with this product.
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post #21154 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
2. REW does not "make corrections", it only measures, so I don't know what you mean by this.
I thought that once I used REW to measure my system/room, then I could use REW's EQ section to create correction filters, and that I then could export those to the nanoAVR HD and then the nanoAVR HD would apply that correction. Isn't this what you are showing on page 92 of your manual?

If REW doesn't do that then I am thinking that I ought to sell off my UMIK and nanoAVR HD, and just buy a receiver that has Audyssey XT32.

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post #21155 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 10:05 AM
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That is correct: REW measures, nanoAVR corrects.
Now get to work!

Michael

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post #21156 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post
I thought that once I used REW to measure my system/room, then I could use REW's EQ section to create correction filters, and that I then could export those to the nanoAVR HD and then the nanoAVR HD would apply that correction. Isn't this what you are showing on page 92 of your manual?

If REW doesn't do that then I am thinking that I ought to sell off my UMIK and nanoAVR HD, and just buy a receiver that has Audyssey XT32.
That is indeed how it works. It was not clear from the wording in your original post that that is what you meant. If you apply EQ to the NanoAVR, then REW must be connected to the NanoAVR, not the AVR.
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post #21157 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 06:02 PM
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Red face REW Noob with Dayton UM15-22

Hey guys,

Sorry if this is posted in the wrong thread but I finally received my UMIK-1 and got started with using REW for the first time on my diy sub. I have read the pdf tutorial and the simplified rew for inuke but I still got some unanswered questions for you experts over here...
First things first, regarding the UMIK-1, do you guys put the foam filter on to take your reading or leave it off?

My setup is currently a Marantz SR9300 with a 5.1 setup (Paradigm Studio 60's v2 fronts, Studio 20's v2 rears , Studio CC v2 center, DIY Dayton UM15-22 on Inuke 1000DSP)
-NO EQ on the Inuke for now

Here is my first rew sweep with umik at MLP...what are your opinions on the results? Also, is it normal for my AVR to have to be at around -12 to get a desired SPL of 90db or does this seems high? Sub gain is at 0db in my avr, and the inuke front knob is to the max, and I get plenty of bass in movies, enough that red clip light flashes on inuke often.

What are my next steps? EQ out the highs and boost the 20hz region?


Thanks for your help!
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post #21158 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBAero View Post
Hey guys,

Sorry if this is posted in the wrong thread but I finally received my UMIK-1 and got started with using REW for the first time on my diy sub. I have read the pdf tutorial and the simplified rew for inuke but I still got some unanswered questions for you experts over here...
First things first, regarding the UMIK-1, do you guys put the foam filter on to take your reading or leave it off?

My setup is currently a Marantz SR9300 with a 5.1 setup (Paradigm Studio 60's v2 fronts, Studio 20's v2 rears , Studio CC v2 center, DIY Dayton UM15-22 on Inuke 1000DSP)
-NO EQ on the Inuke for now

Here is my first rew sweep with umik at MLP...what are your opinions on the results? Also, is it normal for my AVR to have to be at around -12 to get a desired SPL of 90db or does this seems high? Sub gain is at 0db in my avr, and the inuke front knob is to the max, and I get plenty of bass in movies, enough that red clip light flashes on inuke often.

What are my next steps? EQ out the highs and boost the 20hz region?


Thanks for your help!
The foam cap for the mic is to reduce wind noise. Since your environment is not likely to have a lot of wind, it is not necessary to use the foam cover.

A setting of -12 to ge the desired REW output level sounds typical to me.

The measurement looks reasonably good. You could experiment with REW's EQ tool and apply it to the subs.
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post #21159 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBAero View Post
...
AFAIK, the feeling of "rumble" apparently comes from around 60Hz.
If you could make adjustments to fix that dip around 60Hz that would give more of the oomph you may be looking for.
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post #21160 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 07:11 PM
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Thank you both for your fast replies!
Its good to know that I am on the right track.

artur9; Rew EQ was suggesting that I just lower all the peaks and apply a small boost around the 60hz... I will try that and report back... Should I also do something for the big null around 20 to 30hz or that will probably tax too much power from the amp?


Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
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post #21161 of 23452 Old 01-18-2017, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CMBAero View Post
artur9; Should I also do something for the big null around 20 to 30hz or that will probably tax too much power from the amp?
I don't know much about that low a bass. None of my subwoofers go lower than 30Hz although my last graph seems to contradict that. Maybe it's because I never go louder than about 85dB.

This is all my subs and L+R going with 2 bands of parametric EQ, one for my room mode @29Hz and another to cut a peak. As always, still more work to do but I am enjoying the sound for now. The bass sound razor sharp and the dynamics are great. Although my focus is music my teen son tells me his friends were frightened by the explosions during A New Hope (and that is the DVD version). I think I can rest on my laurels for a bit

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post #21162 of 23452 Old 01-19-2017, 04:24 PM
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Is there anything that I could have messed up with my measurement equipment that would cause a very large decay time in the high frequency ranges?

My waterfall 5k and above shows that sounds stay in the room forever and never go away. What could cause this?

The purple was a previous measurement and the red is the new reading.

Something is obviously wrong but I don't know what--help!

The top one is what I was seeing before and now I am getting the bottom one.

(both images are left speaker + sub with no EQ)



Last edited by laserstl; 01-19-2017 at 04:52 PM.
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post #21163 of 23452 Old 01-19-2017, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laserstl View Post
Is there anything that I could have messed up with my measurement equipment that would cause a very large decay time in the high frequency ranges?

My waterfall 5k and above shows that sounds stay in the room forever and never go away. What could cause this?

The purple was a previous measurement and the red is the new reading.

Something is obviously wrong but I don't know what--help!

The top one is what I was seeing before and now I am getting the bottom one.
Typically, the waterfall is used to assess bass resonance (10-300Hz). I have never paid any attention to higher frequencies with the waterfall.

If you want to assess specular reflections (above 300Hz), the appropriate measurement is the Impulse measurement, specifically the ETC. Come back with ETC measurements and we can see if you have issues that need to be addressed.

Edit: If you re-publish the waterfall measurement focusing on the 15-300Hz range, and change the time window from 300ms to 450ms, we can get a better view of whether you have a bass resonance issue.
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post #21164 of 23452 Old 01-19-2017, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Typically, the waterfall is used to assess bass resonance (10-300Hz). I have never paid any attention to higher frequencies with the waterfall.

If you want to assess specular reflections (above 300Hz), the appropriate measurement is the Impulse measurement, specifically the ETC. Come back with ETC measurements and we can see if you have issues that need to be addressed.

Edit: If you re-publish the waterfall measurement focusing on the 15-300Hz range, and change the time window from 300ms to 450ms, we can get a better view of whether you have a bass resonance issue.
Gotcha. What is ETC and what kinds of issues can it identify?

Below are my SPL and waterfall for 15-300.

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Originally Posted by laserstl View Post
Gotcha. What is ETC and what kinds of issues can it identify?
The waterfall is showing a bad area of resonance at 50Hz. Note the ridge that starts at the top and continues all the way to the bottom of the graph, a sign of persistant resonance. Otherwise, the graph looks typical. Resonances below 30Hz are very difficult to control.

Read the guide section on the ETC graph, which shows reflections from hard surfaces in your listening room. A well-controlled room will show reflections down by 20dB within the first 20ms of the measurement.
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post #21166 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 12:43 PM
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It is effed up.

I re-installed ASIO, disconnected the TV to allow me to only show the AVR as playback device, connected the UMIK, rebooted everything and now ... shoot, still cannot select the audio channels I should.

Ideas?

Thank you,

K
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post #21167 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Grimm View Post
It is effed up.

I re-installed ASIO, disconnected the TV to allow me to only show the AVR as playback device, connected the UMIK, rebooted everything and now ... shoot, still cannot select the audio channels I should.

Ideas?

Thank you,

K
May we see a pic of the ASIO control panel?
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post #21168 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 01:20 PM
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Thanks for supporting!

You most certainly can - here we go:
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post #21169 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Grimm View Post
Thanks for supporting!

You most certainly can - here we go:
Kevin, It looks like the Intel Display Audio device has not been activated in ASIO. Take a look at the screen captures I have attached. In the first screen shot, notice that the small icons to the left of the Intel Display Audio device are "on". If you hover the mouse over the Intel Display Audio text, you will see a pop-up as displayed in the second screen shot, which shows the device status as "Active- Polling (Push)". Your screen shot shows that the device has not been activated.

Please consult the ASIO Trouble-Shooting chapter in the REW Guide (p. 41) and follow the steps to enable the Intel Display Audio device.
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post #21170 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 02:37 PM
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New to REW...

First job: I am trying to create a triple active crossover for LCR speakers. Having trouble with connecting for measuring each of the drivers

I have this:
the 3-way center speaker and a multichannel amp connected to it
miniDSP 4x10HD connected to the amp via balanced XLR
UMIK 1
a brand new macbook pro which appears to only have the usb (usb-c) and headphone outputs

Am I thinking correct: connect the mac via USB to my XMC-1 (USB type B input), then to the miniDSP via balanced analog? I need the XMC-1, right? No way around that?

Thanks!

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post #21171 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
New to REW...

First job: I am trying to create a triple active crossover for LCR speakers. Having trouble with connecting for measuring each of the drivers

I have this:
the 3-way center speaker and a multichannel amp connected to it
miniDSP 4x10HD connected to the amp via balanced XLR
UMIK 1
a brand new macbook pro which appears to only have the usb (usb-c) and headphone outputs

Am I thinking correct: connect the mac via USB to my XMC-1 (USB type B input), then to the miniDSP via balanced analog? I need the XMC-1, right? No way around that?

Thanks!
I would like to offer advice, Irwin, but your setup is so different from what I am used to that I don't think I can be of any help. Perhaps someone else will have some suggestions.
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post #21172 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
Am I thinking correct: connect the mac via USB to my XMC-1 (USB type B input), then to the miniDSP via balanced analog? I need the XMC-1, right? No way around that?
Um... Didn't your Mac come with either an HDMI jack or a Lightning -> HDMI adapter?
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post #21173 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 05:04 PM
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There are 4 usb-c outputs and one headphone jack, period!

Unlike before, the headphone output doesn't double as an optical output anymore.

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Edit: the USB-C are also Thunderbolt and DisplayPort. I actually have a large screen attached to it on my desk.

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Last edited by erwinfrombelgium; 01-20-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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post #21174 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
the USB-C are also Thunderbolt and DisplayPort. I actually have a large screen attached to it on my desk.
Looks like I'm not buying another MacBook Pro anytime soon. What kind of idiot is running that place now?

Anyway, see if you can find a Thunderbolt -> HDMI adapter. Which is what I meant before even though I said Lightning because Thunderbolt, Lightning what's the difference ;-)
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post #21175 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
There are 4 usb-c outputs and one headphone jack, period!

Unlike before, the headphone output doesn't double as an optical output anymore.
Apple USB-C to USB adapter (USB 2) US $9.00:

http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MJ...to-usb-adapter

Apple USB-C Digital AV Multiport Adapter (HDMI, USB-C, USB 2) US $49.00:

http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MJ...tiport-adapter

There have been some user reports regarding the Apple Multiport adapter not working properly with the new late 2016 Macbook Pros. The bulk of the problems seem to be with older HDMI monitors. You should test your equipment for compatibility.

There are other products that include other connections and prices vary over a broad range.

Choose wisely.
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post #21176 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 06:35 PM
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There are other products that include other connections and prices vary over a broad range.
The product you should buy is a refurb pc with an hdmi port.
I used mine only for REW and HCFR. Then I built an HTPC, which runs both when needed.
My wife and I use our macs for everything else.
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post #21177 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 06:49 PM
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Thanks for supporting!

You most certainly can - here we go:
Kevin???
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post #21178 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 08:21 PM
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It's only 5 hours, Jerry. Give the guy a chance.
P.S. He's in Germany.
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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #21179 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
connect the mac via USB to my XMC-1 (USB type B input), then to the miniDSP via balanced analog? I need the XMC-1, right? No way around that?!
You could do headphone out to 4x10 in.

Markus

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post #21180 of 23452 Old 01-20-2017, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by markus767 View Post
You could do headphone out to 4x10 in.
That's true. That's how I use my old non-HDMI Mac laptop. Headphone out (analog) to preamp inputs.

BTW, would there be any benefit to using digital instead?
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