Help with extra large 9.2 home theater project - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 01-11-2014, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I was looking into building a large maybe 25x35+ home theater in my attic with 3 tiered rows(5seats each). A projector screen either 150" or 200"(not sure yet) so my first row would end about 17ft away from the screen then 8ft tier and another 8ft tier. I plan to get a pioneer elite  SC-79 receiver and Klipsch speakers, my question being i want to use kilpsch rs-62ii for my surround and back speakers (total of six, 4 ss 2 rear). Because the room size i was thinking of 2 pair side surround in parallel (4ohm load). Thing is im not sure how 2 bipole speakers will sound in parallel mounted on the same wall 8ft to 9 ft apart. The room will not be vaulted, ceiling height around12ft. Any ideas or help on this project will be greatly appreciated im still in early planning phase

 

Also running 9.2 setup not sure on  sub placement either

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post #2 of 25 Old 01-12-2014, 09:26 AM
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Since only about 5% of the movies on BluRay have even 7.1 sound tracks, and NONE have 9.1, what does 9.1 accomplish?

The answer is; two useless channels of synthesized glop with no significant content.

IMO one would be wise to put a given amount of money into the best 5.1/5.2 speakers that amount of money can buy, and forget buying more speakers to reproduce content that does not really exist. Almost all modern movies are engineered with 5.1 sound tracks. Those are the only sound tracks with actual content on all but a very few movies.

Putting a given amount of money into more speakers rather than better speakers means lower sound quality (unless your budget is $100,000 plus). Some nice KEF speakers or PSB speakers will sound a LOT better than Klipsch speakers.

Sound quality should never be sacrificed for quantity.

Putting pairs of speakers in parallel creates a two to three ohm load that no AVR can drive, and only a few very large dedicated power amplifiers. It would better to use larger speakers rather than two speakers.

Of course, if one's objective is to impress people with how many speakers can be crammed into a room, and don't care all that much about sound quality, maybe 11.1 is the logical goal.

P.S.- what is a "roll" ? Are you referring to ROWS of seats?
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post #3 of 25 Old 01-12-2014, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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9.2 is more so because the 9.2 receivers appear to have the features i want. Also for future movies,  its nice if i already have it vs trying to upgrade later

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post #4 of 25 Old 01-12-2014, 10:41 AM
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Check out the Cambridge 651R and 751R if you want the best-sounding receiver on the market.

The 751R has features galore.
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post #5 of 25 Old 01-12-2014, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfreeze View Post

I was looking into building a large maybe 25x35+ home theater in my attic with 3 tiered rows(5seats each). A projector screen either 150" or 200"(not sure yet) so my first row would end about 17ft away from the screen then 8ft tier and another 8ft tier. I plan to get a pioneer elite  SC-79 receiver and Klipsch speakers, my question being i want to use kilpsch rs-62ii for my surround and back speakers (total of six, 4 ss 2 rear). Because the room size i was thinking of 2 pair side surround in parallel (4ohm load). Thing is im not sure how 2 bipole speakers will sound in parallel mounted on the same wall 8ft to 9 ft apart. The room will not be vaulted, ceiling height around12ft. Any ideas or help on this project will be greatly appreciated im still in early planning phase

Also running 9.2 setup not sure on  sub placement either
Your terminology is a little confusing. Do you want 9 channels, or 7 channels with 9 speakers, (2 sets of side surrounds)? If you want 9 channels, you would use the "extra" speakers in the "Wide" or "Height" positions. (Bipoles are not the suggested speaker types for Wides or Heights.)

OTOH, if you want 2 sets of side surrounds to cover 2 rows of seats, you would only be using 7 channels and you would have 2 sets of speakers hooked to the side surround channels. That would still be a 7.x channel system, not a 9.x channel system.

In a room that big, and with a projection system that big, IMO, you want more than a receiver and "consumer grade" speakers to drive your audio system. 15 seats in a 10,500 cubic foot room is a huge space to fill. I doubt the Klipsch Ref speakers and a Pioneer receiver are up to that task, at least if you want sound that is as "big" as the projected image. I would give strong consideration to something like the Seaton Catalysts, which are self-powered. Check out Art Sonneborn's system, which is similar in size and scope to yours: http://www.artsonneborn.com/ He uses the Seaton Cat's and they fill his room effortlessly.

Subwoofers will also be an issue in that sized space. Seaton Submersives would be a good choice, but you'll likely need 4 to get to Reference Level.

Another company to consider is JTR. They make high-sensitivity, high output speakers, but without the built-in amps. They also make some high output subwoofers.

To answer your original question, 2 sets of bipoles on the same side surround channels, mounted 8 ft. apart should "sound" fine. The issue will be trying to drive 2 sets of speakers off one amp channel. You'll halve the impedance, which will cause the receiver to overheat when you turn the volume up... and you'll need to turn the volume up to fill that big of a space.

The powered Seatons would not experience this problem because the signal would be split *before* the amps, so the impedance would not be halved. (The Seaton "Sparks" would be best choice for the side surround channels.)

Good luck.

Craig

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Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence."

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post #6 of 25 Old 01-13-2014, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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maybe this will help

So far in my rough planning was 9.2 system

 

Reciever: Pioneer Elite SC-79 (rms: 9x155 @ 8 ohms, 9x 240 @ 4 ohms)

Center: Klipcsh RC-64 II

Front: Klipsch RF-7 II

Front high/wide: Klipsch RB-81 II

Surround sound: Klipsch RS-62 II (2 sets in parallel @4ohms) - placed  on the walls about 10ft apart in between tiers

Rear SS : Klipsch RS-62 II or Klipsch RB-81 - place on back wall

Sub:(2) Sw-115

Projector: Epson powerlite 5030UB (then upgrade to 4k projector later on)

Fixed Screen: Elite screen or monoprice screen (HD white)

Fiber optic ceiling star boards (not sure how yet)

Chairs: Palliser Rhumba (black)

 

I have done regular living room (18x15 room) 7.1 before but never anything this large. The room isnt built yet because  i dont know placement and really still planning

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post #7 of 25 Old 01-13-2014, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfreeze View Post

maybe this will help
So far in my rough planning was 9.2 system

Reciever: Pioneer Elite SC-79 (rms: 9x155 @ 8 ohms, 9x 240 @ 4 ohms)
Center: Klipcsh RC-64 II
Front: Klipsch RF-7 II
Front high/wide: Klipsch RB-81 II
Surround sound: Klipsch RS-62 II (2 sets in parallel @4ohm
s) - placed  on the walls about 10ft apart in between tiers
Rear SS : Klipsch RS-62 II or Klipsch RB-81 - place on back wall
Sub:(2) Sw-115
Projector: Epson powerlite 5030UB (then upgrade to 4k projector later on)
Fixed Screen: Elite screen or monoprice screen (HD white)
Fiber optic ceiling star boards (not sure how yet)
Chairs: Palliser Rhumba (black)

I have done regular living room (18x15 room) 7.1 before but never anything this large. The room isnt built yet because  i dont know placement and really still planning
That Pioneer SC-79 looks like a VERY nice Home Theater receiver. However, even with it's THX Ultra2 certification, it is only THX certified for Reference Level, (RL), in 3,000 cubic feet of space, at a listening distance of 12 feet. http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-entertainment/home-theater/thx-certification-performance-categories/

That's great but... you have 10,500 cubic feet of space to fill, or more than 3.5 times the space that the THX certification applies to. You are listening anywhere from 17 to 25 to 33 feet away. The Inverse Square Law dictates the available headroom at those listening distances. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/acoustic/invsqs.html IOW, figure 6 to 12 dB of additional loss for the increased distances.

That receiver would wok great in a room 1/3 the size of the room you're planning, or about 3,500 cubic feet of space. A 3,500 cubic foot room is still a very *large* room, bigger even than the THX spec'd room.

However, in your 10,500 cubic foot room... that receiver would be... hmmmmm... can you say "dwarfed" "overwhelmed" "out of it's element", etc.???


Speakers...

The Klipsch RF-7's are GREAT speakers. They're high-sensitivity, high power handling speakers. However, as good as they are, they're not even THX certified. To get to THX certification in the Klipsch line, you need to go to their THX U2 line. Even then, their THX speakers are only certified to get to RL in 3,000 cubic feet, at 12 feet away. As capable as the U2's are, they would really struggle with full Reference Level in a 10,500 cubic foot room at double or more of those listening distances.

Klipsch makes some "pro-grade" speakers for these types of applications: http://www.klipsch.com/kpt-jubilee/details



If you want Reference Level in a space as large as you are talking about, you NEED high sensitivity, high power handling capability speakers. The Seatons and JTR's I previously linked fill that bill. The Klipsch Pro Line also fills that bill. JBL and several others will do the same.

Let me say again, you have 10,500 cubic feet of space to fill, and your listening distances are 17, 25 and 33 feet. You are mating all this to a 150" to 200" display. Consumer-grade speakers and receivers need not apply.

Craig

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Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence."

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post #8 of 25 Old 01-13-2014, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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@ Craig John - I was thinking i would be ok because seating started about 17 away (half way or so) making the listening/seating area 17x25 for surrounds and back. The fronts(reg and high) and center i thought would be a volume adjustment (or maybe amp help). Not sure the dealer i was planning on carries the Pro line i have to do some research into that, It really seemed like overkill but i can't argue with specs. Thanks for the info  

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post #9 of 25 Old 01-14-2014, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfreeze View Post

@ Craig John - I was thinking i would be ok because seating started about 17 away (half way or so) making the listening/seating area 17x25 for surrounds and back. The fronts(reg and high) and center i thought would be a volume adjustment (or maybe amp help). Not sure the dealer i was planning on carries the Pro line i have to do some research into that, It really seemed like overkill but i can't argue with specs. Thanks for the info
 


Of course, it is ultimately your decision. You know your budget and your goals for sound quality and quantity better than anyone else. Nonetheless, I would expect that using a consumer grade receiver and consumer grade speakers in a room the size of yours would limit your maximum SPL capability to 10 to 15 dB below Reference Level. That can be a more than satisfactory level for many people. However, in a room like yours, with such a huge video image, I would think a bigger soundstage presentation would be in order.

Good luck.

Craig

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Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence."

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post #10 of 25 Old 01-14-2014, 07:23 PM
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Hi Blackfreeze,
Craig knows what he is talking about, you would be very wise to heed his advice. You are going to need some serious professional gear for a theater that big. In addition, you will need to think about heating and cooling a space that large, and routing the ducts with multiple turns to reduce noise transmission. This will turn into a lot of planning time and construction work, but the payoff could be a great theater when done right. Just plan on it costing more than you think!

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post #11 of 25 Old 01-15-2014, 09:20 AM
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+1, OP you've got a HUGE dedicate HT room, not some basement room like most (including myself) have that is a HT theater.

Consider EG, Rives, or some of the other HT layout services to help you.

Now, are you good at DIY? handy with wood working?
IF so, an alternative is the DIY Sound Group (started by AVS members), many subwoofer flat packs and even mains/surround speakers that could serve your needs.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2.html
4 of these would get you into decent LFE territory, 8 x 18" subwoofer's
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/8-dual-flat-pack.html
Quote:
8 cu ft Subwoofer Box
Sealed Dual Opposed 18" drivere


Think CD with waveguide, 99db sensitivity - perfect for your huge room needs, etc.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1479331/a-3-way-99db-multi-configurable-seos-design
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

The tux10-99
I'm pretty excited to announce I'm finally finished with the speaker in my avatar. It's been a long time coming. The first it was concieved was a post by maxmercy well over a year ago, so thanks for the idea Max.

It uses two Eminence 16ohm woofers, a pair of Celtion mids, and the SEOS10 with the DNA-205 compression driver. It`s 12" wide and final height about 40", maybe shorter depending on ports. Makes about 99db/w/m.

This speaker is configurable for tower or horizontal center. Like this:



and



and



I ended up preferring a WTMW layout. Also, the final version should have the woofers spaced closer to the mids and slightly shorter ports. I even plan to make a TMW version with the 8ohm woofer. Should only sacrifice a couple db doing that and save some height.

Here's an on axis FR



Yes, it does slope down like that. I have an optional resistor change to raise the top end a bit more. It sounds very good like this. Not bloated. Very dynamic and powerful sounding.

Here's the final impedance (optional resistor drops the very top end down to 3ohms.)



I measured it, but forgot to save it so all you get is the simulated impedance, which measured bang on. I'd call this a 6ohm speaker. Still very easy to drive for most any receiver.

Here is a polar response of the tweeter/mid XO region and up.



You can see it's a little hot around 2500hz (orange). Room eq there would be ok.


Ok, now for the hard bit to explain. I definitely need to explain this a bit. Here's the side by side woofer portion for the center style.



This chart shows the general woofer to mid XO region.

Now, first off note that there's about a 40 degree listening window there. So that's pretty good. I think that works for most people. Second note that with most center channels, side wall reflections are far away. Also note, you never see a polar like this for a center channel MTM speaker. Because frankly, they're very very very bad, all the time. By comparison, this is really good and part of why I'm presenting the data this way. It's the easiest way to see nulls. Ok there's a few things going for us.

What's bad about it, well, there's some pretty deep nulls around 45 degrees. I've proposed to get them out closer to 60 degrees by moving the woofers closer to the mids. Originally I planned about a 500 or 600hz cross over. In the end there was a lot of overlap in the XO and it was around 750hz. This was done for power handling, bandpass gain, and lower/cheaper XO parts count. So in my plan, I spaced the woofers apart a little more than needed to make constructability easier and hoping to match directivity better. With the finished product, the woofers will be as tight as possible, and then hopefully I can remeasure and see the improvement.

I'd appreciate any feedback or questions about the design. Thanks.


There's also the tux10-96 which uses one woofer instead of two and is the 8ohm version.

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post #12 of 25 Old 01-15-2014, 06:30 PM
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Wont those side by side mids cause tons of comb filtering in the critical midrange region?

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post #13 of 25 Old 01-15-2014, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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@craig john and Dmark1

 

        My local dealer doesn't carry any commerical grade products and commerical grade prices inless i find a better dealer, really don't fit my budget. Im thinking of going with my orginal plan right now and see how it sounds to me. Then if its lacking upgrade later on because my budget right now is for everything not just the audio. But here is something i found in that reciever manual that made me think it could get by with this setup.

 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Home/SC-79_OperatingInstructions082313.pdf    page 103

 

In the manual it talks about the X-curve in sq/ft (2D) vs THX.com using cubic/ft (3D). Basically i understand sound travels in 3D but also know its also directional. So help me understand why the ceiling height matters so much in sound when its directional(other than being outside).  I have an open floor plan house my keeping room to my living room (wall to wall) is over 40feet. I have a little yamaha YAS-101 sound bar over the fire place (60 watts 30x30) and from 35 feet away (end of my tape measure)  it was still clear and descent volume. (area is 19 ft wide x 10ft (ceiling) x 35+) So it seemed ok(to me anyway) to try SC-70 @150rms x9 before going to like Jubilee that runs about 500rms per channel. Well this my reasoning for my original plans anyway.

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post #14 of 25 Old 01-16-2014, 04:16 AM
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OP;
I suggest you look at this thread, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1387083/list-of-reference-level-high-sensitivity-spl-speakers

Put your speakers into the spreadsheet to see how they perform if not on the list already
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1387083/list-of-reference-level-high-sensitivity-spl-speakers#post_21490281
Quote:
Why?
This is intended to be a reference list of speakers with higher sensitivity, capable of higher SPL, and more importantly yield great dynamics, which are some of the desirable traits for home theater speakers. I use "low distortion" as a term here because many people are experiencing clipped peaks and distortion without realizing it. They'd never think so, because they don't play near reference level. So this document can be helpful in showing what different speakers will output with what watts.

This is borne out of my own quest for such speakers, and there appears to be rising interest in this category. I often see a few makes and models thrown out as options in threads, but inconsistently, and the thread often dies with people wanting more.

What It Is
This is mainly an aggregate of manufacturers' own specs allowing one to compare speakers in the context of their output and the watts required for reference level at 12 feet, and how loud it'll get with the typical 100w receiver. It's more of an educational tool than a shopping tool. Hence, I've included many speaker that people have asked to be included, such as speakers that were known for high output but may be discontinued and difficult to acquire today. There are also "gray area" speakers that almost achieve reference level. There's another list of speakers that I had initially included for comparison sake, but are not reference level capable.

The list is also filtered through my editing and weighting in the scoring columns, and some specs have been corrected for comparison purposes or where reviews have consistently found the manufacturer data to be wrong or misleading.

What It's Not
This is not a definitive list, as every speaker cannot be included. I add them as I come across them or people recommend them.

This is not a definitive shopping tool. The pricing might sometimes be average new prices, or reported dealer prices, or MSRP. Your own shopping will likely find different prices.

It's not always perfectly accurate; just as professional publications print corrections every month, I too make copy-paste mistakes or misinterpret data. I try to ask where I have questions, and I try to add comments on individual cells to qualify the data (e.g. where the sensitivity was dropped 3dB to get from a reported in-room to anechoic).

This is not a list of speakers by quality. Maximum output and dynamic capability at higher output are only a couple attributes of speaker among many. And even those may be meaningless to many people, in the same way that an automobile's top speed has no bearing on one's car purchase if one will never drive it that fast, except as bragging rights. If you never listen louder than -15dBFS from reference level, then most speakers of middlin' efficiency and limited power handling will work fine, because you'll only send the speakers a few watts of power.

Reference Level?
The term is often mentioned as a benchmark of output. It's really just what it says, a reference level. It is not the "ideal level" or the "best level." Although this is a gray area, as supposedly many commercial theaters are supposed to be calibrated and capable to play at this level, and film soundtrack mastering is performed at this level.

Reference Level, 0dBFS (0dB Full Scale (digital), is the maximum level the soundtracks can be recorded at for any given channel. It equates to SPL peak output for each five or seven channels of 105dB and 115dB for the LFE channel at the listening position. The soundtrack will rarely reach this level, but it's a reference point. Even if people rarely play at this loud level, it's good to calibrate so that you know where your volume is at for comparison purposes. This is loud, but in a better-treated room with better equipment, it sounds more natural. The dynamic peaks are loud enough that it the sounds will affect you at a more instinctual level. It also ensures that the softest sounds are above the system's (which includes the room, HVAC, etc.) noise floor.

The requirements to reach reference level, or any volume, differ from speaker to speaker, amp to amp, room to room, and with different seating distances.

It's also a benchmark elsewhere, such as for THX certification.

Isn't that insanely loud?
Remember that the 105dB is for peaks, not average levels, which are 85dB. The peaks are brief, transient spikes, and they don't harm hearing.

In the real world:

the dishes clattering might be 90-ish decibels (1 meter)
a roaring passenger car might be 100dB (1 meter).
standing next to a grand piano 109dB.
a rock concert 111dB (40 feet away)
drum set (at moment of strike) 125dB


You can see it's not outlandish in an action movie to have brief peaks of sound of 100 or 105dB to simulate at a much lower level the sounds of the action.

The other issue is perception of loudness. Much of the time, when we say a theater system is "too loud" we at least partially mean, "It sounds bad!" As typical weaker systems are tasked with trying to play beyond their limits, they produce bad sound, in the form of distortion. We don't like distortion, so we say, "it's too loud!" What we're really judging is the system, not the SPL per se. Picture driving in a poorly-built vehicle at too high a velocity for the vehicle and the road. All the smoke, vibration, skidding, bad engine sounds, the out of control feeling, add up to a bad experience. An automobile that is more capable would yield a much better experience at the same speed. And a better road (theater room) would make it better still.

Why is this a big deal?
Most home systems cannot approach this level. As stated above, -15dBFS (15 decibels below reference level) is fairly easy to achieve. The relationship between watts and SPL is not linear. 3dB increase of SPL requires twice the watts. Twice the loudness is 10dB, and that's ten times the watts. Fortunately, even a few watts into an inefficient speaker will produce enough sound for casual TV watching, background music, or critical music listening in a quiet environment.

Unfortunately, the requirements are exponentially higher when you want to listen closer to reference level, where typical speakers will require hundreds or even thousands of watts! When the speakers and amps are not up to the task, we get reduced output and distortion.
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post #15 of 25 Old 01-16-2014, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfreeze View Post

@ Craig John - I was thinking i would be ok because seating started about 17 away (half way or so) making the listening/seating area 17x25 for surrounds and back. The fronts(reg and high) and center i thought would be a volume adjustment (or maybe amp help). Not sure the dealer i was planning on carries the Pro line i have to do some research into that, It really seemed like overkill but i can't argue with specs. Thanks for the info  

I think that spending a little quiet time with a Peak SPL calculator might help clarify your thinking:

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

Here is a sample run for the speakers you proposed, a reasonable listening distance and with my estimated adjustments to their sensitivity, and using an AVR to power them.



Just about makes THX peak SPL spec, close enough.

Now we put in your proposed listening distance:



Now we miss the THX spec by a slightly audible amount (about 4 dB).

We can correct this with a 300 wpc power amp array with or more efficient speakers such as the ones that Mr. Johns recommended first or Mike just recommended. I'd probably favor the more sensitive speakers because they are usually cleaner at the very high SPLs involved. Speakers are different than amplifiers in that their distortion builds up in speakers far more slowly with increases in power which means that even very capable ones are more likely to have audible distortion at moderately loud levels.
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post #16 of 25 Old 01-16-2014, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Help me out because im not seeing a problem or maybe i missing something all these were done a 33feet away and at 100watts. should they all be over 105 at 33feet (back of the room)??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RB 81 II and RS 64 II have the same rms and sentivity

 

 

 

 

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post #17 of 25 Old 01-16-2014, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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All the above is at 100 watts, the main one lacking is the center but 100 watts is only half the rms of the center or i could find another center speaker. But this is only for the 3rd row the front and mid rows meet it (well 104.4 is at 25ft) Also another problem is that commerical grade products i don't have access to. The people who can, arent selling them but want to install whole system. Im not trying to pay someone this is more  of a DIY project

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post #18 of 25 Old 01-16-2014, 08:21 PM
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are you dead set on the SW-115 Subwoofer? 2 @ $1.7k total, so for $500 more, lots more output and nearly guarantee flat freq at seats
For $2.2k ;
you could get 4 of these, Dayton Audio 18" Reference Series HO Subwoofer and Cabinet Package, put 1 in each corner ($325 each)
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7094

and 2 of these @ $400/ea
http://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu6000-inuke-6000w-lightweight-power-amplifier--248-6708

and MiniDSP for HPF and EQ $120
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1281290/minidsp
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post #19 of 25 Old 01-16-2014, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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       No im not set dead on those subs i've actually been looking around at PSB and SVS but i had all klipsch because it was something i could go hear in a store and someone has some. Plus through a friend i could get them for $449 each(SW-115) and almost all Klipsch stuff at a good discounted rate. (And other brands too) But i liked the klipsch speakers, the subs just matched the set

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post #20 of 25 Old 01-17-2014, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Are the Klipsch subs that bad? alot people on seem to be against them. Other then the DIY sub kit (which i want to try later), what do you all reccommend? 

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post #21 of 25 Old 01-21-2014, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfreeze View Post

Are the Klipsch subs that bad? alot people on seem to be against them. Other then the DIY sub kit (which i want to try later), what do you all reccommend? 

I'm not expert on branded subs, here is fact based data. http://www.data-bass.com/systems

However, looking at the specs for $450 each or $1,800 for 4 you'd be into good LFE territory definitely, and should enable flat freq response at your seats.

What is your plan to EQ them?
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post #22 of 25 Old 01-21-2014, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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No really sure yet, this is a big project for me. I really was gonna go with Klipsch or maybe another brand and just start. Then going through setting to find a sound i like or notice whats missing. I want full range of bass (especially the low low tones) but at even volume. I know the branded subs have setting on them and the receiver does also not really sure which i use yet. Also if i have 4 subs and only 2 subwoofer preouts, will a RCA y splitter due or will i need something else?

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post #23 of 25 Old 01-21-2014, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Also looking at adding a OPPO 103d blu ray player to the line up, not sure about it yet

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post #24 of 25 Old 01-22-2014, 04:32 AM
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Blackfreeze, you have extremely knowledgable ppl responding to you. So even though you may not be able to do or purchace everything they recommend make sure you at least check everything out and do a little research. The last thing you want to happen is to spend all this money have this great looking enormous sized room with a HUGE screen and have the sound, sound small. If you can try to do it right the first time eventhough it will be more money than you wanted to spend, it will save you money in the long run.

With that said I would highly recommend looking into higher effenciency speakers, and don't worry about getting speakers that go low in frequency response cuz the sub will handle that anyway. Something that has very high effiency with a large 10, 12, or 15" woofer with a -3db point of like 70hz would be perfect. You may want to look into JTR Noesis 228 or 212. I would also recommend going with an Acoustically Transparent screen and do 3 identical vertically oriented speakers for the front 3.

And for the subs I WOULD NOT go with Klipsch subs. For a room that huge you will need massive subs and probably 4 of them (2 at the very least). I would also go ported with the subs. Look at JTR Captivator for extreme high output and a monster of a sub 4 would be great but 2 may work. Maybe 4 PSA XV30f's, or 4 Rythmik FV15HP's, or 4 HSU VTF15H's.

Shawn
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post #25 of 25 Old 01-22-2014, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfreeze View Post

All the above is at 100 watts, the main one lacking is the center but 100 watts is only half the rms of the center or i could find another center speaker. But this is only for the 3rd row the front and mid rows meet it (well 104.4 is at 25ft) Also another problem is that commerical grade products i don't have access to. The people who can, arent selling them but want to install whole system. Im not trying to pay someone this is more  of a DIY project

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1464265/looking-to-buy-some-high-sensitivity-bookshelf-speakers#post_23102508
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