If you own an AV receiver, here's your chance to tell the world how much you enjoy it—or not—and possibly win one of three Amazon gift cards.
First prize is $300
Second and third prizes are $100 each
To enter, all you have to do is post a review of your receiver, and post a link to your review in this thread. Three of the reviews will be selected at random as the winners after verifying their eligibility.
What makes a review eligible?
1) The review must be submitted between October 28 and November 11, 2013, on a product within the AVS Component Receivers category;
2) The review must contain a title, overall rating stars, review-detail ratings, pros, cons, and a minimum 100-word body;
3) The review must be new, original work and not republished, in whole or in part, from another location on AVS Forum or elsewhere on the Internet;
4) AVS Forum reserves the right to disqualify reviews of very low quality at our discretion. Be thorough and helpful to your readers, and use good punctuation, spelling, and grammar. Also, divide your comments into several paragraphs; it's very difficult to read one long paragraph.
Never written a review on AVS Forum before? It's easy! Click here for a tutorial. To summarize, first go to the Component Receivers product page and click on "Add Item" in the upper right. Next, enter the make and model number of your receiver into the search box, then click on the product in the resulting list. Finally, click on "Write a Review" in the upper right of that product's page, and input your review. It doesn't matter if someone else has already reviewed the same receiver; we love multiple perspectives!
The most important things to cover in the main body are:
1) Features—Is the receiver 5.1, 7.1, or something more? What type of auto-room correction does it offer? Does it offer HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC)? Does it include video-processing functions? Multi-room capabilities? Which features are useful to you and which are not?
2) Setup—How did you connect the receiver to the source components and display? Did you set it up manually or using the automatic room correction? Was it easy or difficult?
3) User Interface—Are the remote and menu system well designed? Are they easy or difficult to use?
4) Performance—How does it sound? How well does the video processing work? Cite examples from content you've watched/listened to.
So fire up your AV receiver and take a critical look and listen, then submit your review and post a link to it in this thread for a chance to win a shopping spree on Amazon!
KEF Fivetwo Series Model 11
SVS PC12 Plus
I think of upgrading to something that has HDMI switching but so far the 3 HDMIs on the DLP works fine. It has no problem playing the DTS output of any Blu-Ray. Sometimes it loses audio sync from the HR20 is there was too much loss in the signal but pausing or going back restores that.
It's a love/hate sort of thing.
First, the love: It's a lovely sounding bit of gear. It's got enough power to actually watch a movie with or listen to music at impressive levels. The amplifier section seems to be very transparent and unstrained, and the unit also works well as a preamplifier (which is how it mostly gets used for me). The crossover controls (oh, wait: "bass management") work sanely, and it has a large number of analog inputs. It has plenty of cooling with a built-in fan that I never hear run, and the guts are laid out in such a way that dust tends to accumulate more on the heatsinks than on its many layers of PCBs stuffed full of SMDs. It does a splendid job with doing 5.1 PCM over HDMI, with a PS3 doing the grunt decoding work for Blu-Rays, or decoding Dolby Stereo, DTS, or Dolby Digital by itself.
Now, the hate: There aren't anywhere near enough input buttons for all of the physical inputs. Some of the input buttons are dedicated to things like the proprietary iPod dock and the USB port that acts like a sound card (which is cool, but limited to stereo PCM at 44.1/48KHz). Proprietary extra box needed for RF remote functions. Built-in EQ totally not user-adjustable: Either accept what it decides with its included microphone, or turn it off. (It works better off.)
Logic 7 ought to be a fun feature, but it is totally not user-adjustable, and adds waaay too much bass and waaay too much fake fill in the rear channels. Bad latency in conversion from analog to HDMI, worse latency if its built-in scaler is turned on. This doesn't matter for movies or general video, but it makes the Wii unplayable (although doing a pass-through with component video works fine). No tape outputs for any manner of recording. No phono preamp. The tuner neither sounds good, nor works well.
It has two subwoofer outputs, and they're both mixed mono. The entire point of having two monaural subwoofer outputs seems to be that one can have two different subwoofers, and set different delays for each of them. And, indeed, there are two subwoofer delay settings in "Speaker Distances" menu....but only one of them works. The other delay is apparently always set to 0, no matter what the screen says. (This is annoying because I actually have two subwoofers, and two amplifier channels to drive them, but it's easy to ignore.)
Speaking of the screen, the built-in menu looks like something from a home VCR circa 1990: Block white text on a blue background. (Humorously it does scale the menu up to 720p with its Faruoudja magic, but there's still rolling analog video noise in the background from the twenty-three-cent character generator chip at the source.)
It forgets some of its settings when it loses power. Some of these settings are minor (like display brightness), some are important (like the association between digital inputs and input buttons). This means that every time the power goes out, my wife makes me push a long-winded button incantation in the menu in order to make digital sources (whether HDMI or S/PDIF) work again. (I tried programming this into an 18-or-20-step macro in the Lexicon's remote, but the macro only works some of the time and the remote eats a set of batteries every month or two even if it isn't used at all.)
When changing audio input formats as in, say, watching a Dolby Digital 5.1 film before watching a PLII film, it forgets to be in Pro-Logic mode: It -says- it is in Pro-Logic mode, but the audio is in stereo. Pushing the "stereo" button and then the "Dolby" button fixes this. (Oddly, in this strange state of being stereo but reporting PLIIx, the audio is noticeably louder than normal "stereo" mode, by about 3dB. Pushing the "stereo" button one time fixes this level discrepancy.)
Similarly, with TOSLINK from my Samsung A550 to one of the Lexicon's inputs, Dolby Digital works fine with ATSC OTA stuff...unless I go to an analog source (we still have one low-power TV station here doing NTSC) and back to ATSC. This outputs the Dolby Digital data as if it were PCM data, resulting in REALLY LOUD INCOHERENT NOISE until the receiver's input is switched to something else, and then back again. It then works fine until the next time the TV lands on that solitary analog channel.
Oh, and it doesn't transfer 1080p over HDMI. Not a big problem since my 1080 sources are generally 1080p24 Blu-Ray, which works exactly the same in 1080i60 on my 60Hz TV, but still bothersome.
All that said, I think, the biggest gripes I have: The speaker terminal binding posts are not spaced at 3/4". This makes it a pain to move around for its annual cleaning, because dual-bananas don't fit and I have zero faith in non-insulated fancy-pants single-bananas. And the lights, for the input buttons: They're so bright and focused that you can read a newspaper with them from across the room, and see them through your eyelids if you're napping on the couch listening to music, and yet so useless that they're invisible if a ray of direct sunlight visits upon them through a window.
In conclusion: Neat product. Sounds great. Has issues. Internally, it has clearly-labeled connections between boards, in case the need for future modification presents itself. It's an awesome bit of kit as long as it is used as simply as possible...in other words, as a relatively high-end video switcher and no-frills processor that happens to have an amplifier section.
Was it worth $3995.95 that it retailed for? No, absolutely not. But it was worth what I paid for it, and it's worth dealing with its misgivings and problems. It is very nice to listen to if it hasn't bludgeoned itself into a mode that does not work, and I look forward to many more years with it.
(I've been in contact with the skeletal remains of Lexicon about these issues, and they were receptive to the idea of sending me new firmware....if they had any to send out. I'd guess that the engineers burned the files right at about the same time they threw their desk chairs out of the windows on the last day of work.)
Sure, it doesn't switch HDMI. But it has all the digital audio ports I need. The sound is still awesome, and handles my 5.2 speaker setup perfectly.
No need for me to write a review as it's not a current product. But if you find one on ebay that's in full working order and it's a good price, and just want audio perfection, go for it!
I'll do a little review of my current receiver:
Marantz SR8002 7.1 channel Receiver
My receiver is a Marantz SR8002 that I picked up WAAAAAAY back in 2010 as an already old (though new in box) model for a shocking $800 shipped. Cracking deal. It features (true) 125 watts PC with 7 channels driven @ 8ohms. Surround decoding includes THX Surround EX, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio (WOOT!), Dolby Digital Plus, DTS-HD High Resolution Audio, Dolby Digital EX. Room calibration / setup is Audyssey Laboratories' MultEQ six-point auto setup and room calibration system. HDMI 1.3a switching (officially 4x2 but it's really 4x1 +1, see below), multi zone support, biamping front speakers (if you're not using it as a 7.1 receiver) and pre-amp outputs for when your lust for speakers call for more power.
The receiver supports any bluray audio format I've thrown at it even now 5 years after it was initially released. Has plenty of HDMI ins for my needs, and powers my 8/6 ohm speakers without getting overly warm.
In order to use HDMI 2 Marantz decided you'd have to use the on screen menu, and you can only use one output at a time. This makes using the onscreen menu a little more complicated obviously But is not a deal breaker for me. The FM(hd or non) and AM reception is on the low end of acceptable, but again not a deal breaker for me as I don't frequently listen to the radio and I *can* get the stations I want with some creative antenna work.
Overall I would give the receiver a solid **** not considering the cracking deal I got. Considering the deal for me it's ***** all day.
All in all I would definitely buy another Marantz, but due to the build quality of this one it will likely be quite awhile before I actually need one unless I decide to swap my projector for a 3d projector (I'm trying to hold out until 4k projectors are <3k, but that will easily be another 5 years so the jury is still out if I can stagger on with just 720p )
One of the main reasons I prefer HK over other brands is HK's Logic7 post processing, for music or movies. I don't think Dolby or DTS comes close.
And of course, it has Dolby Digital, DTS digital, Dolby prologic II, DTS neo-6.
The 3600 has full 7 channel pre-outs for adding power amps.
The 3600 is fairly easy to setup, although the menus can go quite deep, if you want to change settings.
Custom, one of a kind pair, MJC212 mains, mod PT800 center, PT800 surrounds, SUB1500s. Parasound P7, Citation 19, Parasound HCA2205A, HK AVR3600, Marantz TT, Denon disc player, MacBook Pro w/ DragonFly usbDAC.
I have the Denon avr 5600, it is an older receiver (1997). I actually ended up buying two of these off of ebay as one of them I gave to my brother in law. I am madly in love with this receiver! It has a TRUE rating of 140 watts rms per channel. I paired it up with my Klipsch Reference RF-3 II speakers and eD a2-300 dual subs. This is by far the most amazing home theater I have ever experienced. The receiver has such an amazing smooth endless power to it.
This is my first true amp and my first large speaker system, took me 15 years to save up for this set-up! This receiver has a warmer sound to it so it works GREAT with brighter sounding speakers. I honestly LOVE this set-up so much that I never wish to upgrade it.
Thanks for the opportunity to put my feelings down on "paper"! Jim.
Coolmeadow Irish Setters and Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas. When Irish eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...but most likely, I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3
fingers crossed never win anything
My rating is 5 out of 5.
I don't love or or hate it - it just works and I have no reason to upgrade, probably not until it breaks down.
It is 5.1 and this is what I have speaker-wise - KEF Q75 for mains, Q95C for Center, Q15s for surrounds and Velodyne sub. My TV is Sony KDL 46 XBR9 LCD.
No room correction (I don't think it was available at all at the time). No HDMI inputs (at the time component was as good as it got). It does have multi-room capabilities but I never used them.
1) Blu-Ray player: coax audio is routed via receiver and HDMI video directly to TV. Coax audio passes DD 5.1 from Amazon streaming.
2) DVD player (needed because it plays PAL DVDs, which Blu-Ray player doesn't): coax audio is routed via receiver and HDMI video directly to TV
3) VHS - composite video and stereo sound is routed via receiver.
4) Laser Disc player - composite video and stereo sound is routed via receiver.
For 3) and 4) composite is upconverted to S-VHS and connected to TV
My TV is connected to antenna. TV has optical output that is connected to receiver. This optical output passes Dolby Digital from ATSC.
I am glad I still can use it. I am not able to decode latest BR audio formats (everything is downconverted to regular DD or DTS 5.1) but I am fine with that. The fact that I have to route video via TV doesn't create any inconvenience - I setup macros on my remote that switch matching video source on TV and audio source on receiver with 1 keypress.
I set it up manually using SPL meter from RadioShack.
I never used its own remote - always been using some kind of universal remote for all components. Currently use URC-R40.
User interface is rudimentary and ugly but I rarely need to use it anymore.
As far as sound - I am completely satisfied. I think the best way to describe it is "neutral", or natural. I don't detect any coloration or harshness (that, of course, is also a function of my speakers).
Maybe someone should edit the original thread title.
This example makes me wonder just how good the advice on this board is sometimes......... I mean, do people even read my questions?? or just browse them and pound down some text and call it good....
FS- Netgear 550 .ISO player - PM me
My Gear-Pioneer, JBL Pro Cinema, Fi Car Audio 4- SP4 18", Peavey IPR2 7500 x 4 -Mini-Dsp 4x10, GIK Acoustics, Seymour Screens 110" AT, Dune Smarts, uNraid Server
Theater Build and Two Sono Sub Builds Here-
The less than perfect: the h/k app for phone / tablet rarely works.
The not so wonderful: No video upconvert,but at this price I Can hardly complain, also Can only pass video through at 60hz even though input is higher and TVs Can support. Also crossover options for subwoofer are quite limited
|Harman Kardon Avr 1700 5 1 Av Receiver|