Official Logitech Harmony 300 thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 71 Old 12-22-2010, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

I'll see what I can find. Do the blu-ray colored buttons happen to work with the HT?

Yes - they are used quite a lot with the AllShare feature.

Also do you know if its possible to somehow use Macro buttons to select a specic input if the original remote only has a Source/Input button that scrolls thruy inputs?

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post #32 of 71 Old 12-22-2010, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Do the colored buttons from the blu-ray device work with the HT? In other words, if you were able to copy the blu-ray colored buttons to the AUD device, would that solve the problem?

You can use any buttons you like for source selection. Here are the codes I know of:
num0 00090
num1 00169
num2 00167
num3 00171
num4 00164
num5 00168
num6 00166
num7 00170
num8 00026
num9 00154
PowerToggle 00185
Input:AUX+DiscreteON 00121
Input: DVD+DiscreteOn 00249
Input:Tuner/Band+DiscreteOn 00057
VOL+ 00155
VOL- 00027
Mute 00025
Test tone 00020
SPK mode(speaker) 00148
SoundEdit-SpeakerVolumes 00116
Up arrow 00056
Down arrow 00120
Left arrow 00216
Right arrow 00248
EnterInArrows(selectsMenuItem) 00184
d-Menu(EnterToSelectItem) 00118
d-Title 00182
d-ReturnFromMenu 00244
d-open/close+DiscreteON 00149
d-Play/Pause toggle 00187
d-Stop 00059
>>TuneFreq+/dSpeedUpFWD 00219
<<TuneFreq-/dSpeedUpREV 00091
>>
 
d-SlowPlayToggle(
d-StepFrames 00024
d-GoToTrack# 00181
d-RepeatToggle 00250
d-Repeat A<->B 00218
ProgramPlay/TunePresets 00088
d-ClearProgram 00122
d-DisplayToggle 00214
d-RemainTimeToggle 00053
d-SubtitleToggle 00054
d-ZoomToggle 00186
d-AngleToggle 00022
SleepToggle 00217
d-Audio Mono/Stereo 00246
Mode DSP/DPLII toggle 00180
Effect DSP/DPLII toggle 00052
ProLogicII menu 00084
DynRangeCompression 00058
ProgressiveScanLKP 00153
DVDSetup/ProgScan-Adjust 00150
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post #33 of 71 Old 12-22-2010, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

Do the colored buttons from the blu-ray device work with the HT? In other words, if you were able to copy the blu-ray colored buttons to the AUD device, would that solve the problem?

No - with DVD set to 0199 and Aud set to 1295 the colored button don't work with either the BD-C5500 or the HT-C5500.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

You can use any buttons you like for source selection. Here are the codes I know of:

Not quite sure I follow here:

At moment if I want to change fro Cable to Bluray on the TV Remote I have to keep pressing Source untill the input I want is selected. What I was wonder is how I can move between Cable to Bluray with one press.

I'm assuming as there is not a direct button for this on the TV remote I would have to program macro1 button to send the Source cmd X times depending on how many presses to go from Cable to Bluray and then program macro2 button to send the Source cmd X times depending on how many presses to go from Bluray to Cable.

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post #34 of 71 Old 12-22-2010, 02:51 PM
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Actually looks like quite a lot of the remotes buttons are not working with the HT-C5500 e.g. FWD/REW, the numbers etc.

I started using the Learn function and its learning OK so going to be a long and painful but hopefully worth it ride.

I'll see how this goes for the Room that has TV/Cable/HT-C5500 and if works and family can learn it (as going to have fudge some buttons with different names) I'll get another 4 remotes and invest in the JP1 cable as those will all be TV/Cable/BD-C5500 so other than the TV everything should be the same.

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post #35 of 71 Old 12-22-2010, 11:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Follow the instructions link in my sig for assigning advanced codes to the macro buttons using the first three codes I posted for going directly to certain inputs. FYI, you can assign them to any buttons, not just the macro buttons. Just because there is no discrete input command on the original remote doesn't mean one doesn't exist.

I'll post back later with the advanced codes for the colored buttons, ffwd etc.
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post #36 of 71 Old 12-23-2010, 10:47 AM
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Its the TV I need to swith inputs on - the current setup I'm playing with is a Sony KDL-46S4100. Was looking in the file section and found a file for Sony KDL-40S4100 (looks like you posted it). What do I use to open it (file type rmdu) - I downloaded IR.exe but that does not seem to work.

My FiOS is on HDMI-1 and HT on HDMI-3
Assume this is what I do when I get right codes.

Quote:


Assign Advanced Code 994 - EFC (one device mode)
1. TAP a DEVICE button (eg, TV)
2. PRESS and HOLD the SETUP button until the red LED flashes twice, then RELEASE.
3. TAP 9 - 9 - 4.
4. TAP the SETUP button
5. TYPE the 3 or 5 digit EFC code (aka "advanced code)
6. TAP the regular button (eg, VOL+) - two Blinks

[EDIT] Figured I needed RemoteMaster
Will report back.

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post #37 of 71 Old 12-23-2010, 11:21 AM
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OK so worked out HDMI-1 = 158 and HDMI-3 = 247 but I'm a little confused about assigning these. What I was thinking was to use the CH+ & CH- buttons (PIP). So tried this

1. TAPPED the TV DEVICE button
2. PRESSED and HELD the SETUP button until the TV LED flashed twice, then RELEASED.
3. TAPPED 9 - 9 - 4.
4. TAPPED the SETUP button
5. TYPED the 3 digit EFC code (e.g. 158 for HDMI-1)
6. TAPPED the CH+ button

But didn't seem to work...... what am I doing wrong?

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post #38 of 71 Old 12-23-2010, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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You need to use 5 digit EFCs. Prepending 00 (i.e. 00158) works sometimes but not in this case. Use the following codes using TV setup code 0810:
0 50757
1 19013
2 17989
3 18501
4 17477
5 19269
6 18245
7 18757
8 17733
9 51781
vol up 34885
vol down 33861
mute 35653
channel up 35397
channel down 34373
power 34629
enter 50245
input 10053
last (prev ch) 58437
menu 14917
up arrow 31557
down arrow 30533
left arrow 27461
right arrow 25669
select 14149
sleep 26949
pip on/off 05189
display 59461
pip swap 05445
pip move 06469
exit 07212
favorites 28971
pip freeze 06981
discrete on 43333
discrete off 42309
tv tuner 11077
video 1 23109
video 2 22085
component 1 22597
component 2 21829
hdmi 1 55877
hdmi 2 54853
hdmi 3 20524
tools 24876
close caption 33509
picture 15173
return 13381
pc 12075
wide 57312
. (delimiter) 65324

I updated my previous post with the missing codes for your HT.

Here are all the codes for your blu-ray using DVD code 0199. Let me know if the colored buttons work with both the HT and blu-ray:
0 00140
1 00016
2 00012
3 00019
4 00015
5 00017
6 00013
7 00146
8 00142
9 00144
scene search 00147
cancel 00205
title menu 00242
slow forward 00082
slow reverse 00141
power 00018
disc menu 00207
menu 00081
display/info 00209
return 00077
up arrow 00210
down arrow 00206
left arrow 00204
right arrow 00208
select 00211
marker 00110
input select 00145
repeat 00237
play 00083
zoom 00112
rewind 00080
fast fwd 00079
stop 00076
open/close 00014
f.fwd/next track 00078
f.rew/prev track 00143
subtitle 00241
audio 00239
A 00238
B 00240
C 00236
D 00243
bonus view 00044
pause 00048
exit 00108
full screen 00174
internet 00178
tools 00176
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post #39 of 71 Old 12-23-2010, 04:29 PM
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Great got the TV input selection working with:

hdmi-1 55877
hdmi-3 20524

Didn't see the colored buttons listed in this post but I managed to learn them.

Were the Sony KDL-40S4100/0810 layouts in the JP1 code listing as I didn't see them. Looks like this is working out so will be likely getting another 4 remotes (depending on WAF). Will need the Advance codes for Samsung LN40C500F3F, Samsumg P2370HD and Sony KDL-40S20L1.

Can you point me to where to locate them.

Really appreciate your help on this.

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post #40 of 71 Old 12-23-2010, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Great got the TV input selection working with:

hdmi-1 55877
hdmi-3 20524

Didn't see the colored buttons listed in this post but I managed to learn them.

I think they're ABCD, but I don't know which is which color.

Quote:


Were the Sony KDL-40S4100/0810 layouts in the JP1 code listing as I didn't see them. Looks like this is working out so will be likely getting another 4 remotes (depending on WAF).

Yes, if you open it in Remote Master, my copy and paste is ver batim from my original file. The codes you see in notepad won't work in the remote since they are unencrypted. You have to use Remote Master to calculate the correct codes.

Quote:


Will need the Advance codes for Samsung LN40C500F3F, Samsumg P2370HD and Sony KDL-40S20L1.

Can you point me to where to locate them.

It's highly likely each make will use nearly all the same codes. So your other sony will likely use 0810 like the first sony. Both samsungs will probably use the same codes as well. Just find a similar model like THIS one in the file search at hifi-remote.com and open in Remote Master. The trick is finding the corresponding built-in device code. It requires a reverse lookup of the protocol and device and subdevice in the Lookup Tool.

Here are the codes from the samsung file linked above. It uses protocol NECx2, device 7, subdevice 7. In the lookup tool by protocol for the RCA remote, that gives us the possible TV setup codes 0702, 0812, 1629, or 1903.
0 00121
1 00180
2 00184
3 00182
4 00053
5 00057
6 00055
7 00052
8 00056
9 00054
vol up 00186
vol down 00059
mute 00058
channel up 00119
channel down 00117
power 00183
menu 00247
channel list 00075
info 00250
exit 00088
up arrow 00197
down arrow 00201
left arrow 00200
right arrow 00199
select 00069
enter/- 00219
source 00185
previous channel 00123
sleep 00187
play/pause 00170
MTS 00181
rewind 00168
fast fwd 00037
stop 00166
record 00041
pip on/off 00213
select tv 00251
select digital tv 00171
select HDMI 1 00081
select HDMI 2/DVI 00030
select HDMI 3 00175
select HDMI 4 00176
select component 1 00190
select component 2 00061
select PC 00073
select S-video 00192
select AV1 00188
select AV 2 00083
DiscreteOn 00001
DiscreteOff 00253
caption 00216
Still 00167
return 00229
pip ch+ 00151
pip ch- 00155
media player 00060
Internet 00131
anynet 00130
P. Mode 00085
S. Mode 00091
SRS 00070
Fav. Ch. 00164
Antenna 00150
Tools 00043
Red 00068
Green 00116
Yellow 00120
Blue 00118
DMA 00203
E.Mode 00124
Pause 00039
P. Size (aspect) 00022
Aspect 4:3 00211
Aspect 16:9 00204
Aspect Zoom 1 00107
Aspect Zoom 2 00209

Of course with a cable, you don't have to deal with all these codes and detective work. You just load a file that looks close and you're done. If you can't find a match, it's easy to make your own file by analyzing learns. That's how all of the thousands of files on the JP1 site were created.

With all these discretes, you can of course build macros for your various activities. All your tv's have discrete on/off as well as discrete inputs, so you can make bullet-proof macros.

Kind of a steep learning curve, I know. But you'll be able to make these cheap remotes do anything once you understand it.
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post #41 of 71 Old 12-24-2010, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

I think they're ABCD, but I don't know which is which color.

I must be blind as I don't see A,B,C,D either in this post

Going to hide the other remotes and try to force wife & kid to get used to a single remote...... fingers crossed.

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post #42 of 71 Old 12-24-2010, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I meant the blu-ray codes in THIS post. I suspect they'll control the HT as well (from DVD mode). If they do, you can key copy them from DVD mode to AUD mode.
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post #43 of 71 Old 12-24-2010, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

I meant the blu-ray codes in THIS post. I suspect they'll control the HT as well (from DVD mode). If they do, you can key copy them from DVD mode to AUD mode.

Ah ha, now I get it

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post #44 of 71 Old 12-27-2010, 04:21 PM
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Setup:

Panasonic Vieja,
Comcast DCX300 Motorola DVR,
Visio VSB200 Sound Bar.

2 Questions:

1) Does anyone know how to make it so default volume on any input (or just the cbl/dvr) is the soundbar, so I don't have to press aux whenever I want to adjust the sound?

2) And also, is it possible to make some button work as the "my dvr" button found on the comcast remote?
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post #45 of 71 Old 12-27-2010, 05:13 PM
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For # 1) I believe this is what you do

Quote:
1. PRESS and HOLD the SETUP button until the a DEVICE button flashes twice, then RELEASE.
2. TAP 9 - 9 - 4.
3. TAP the "from" DEVICE button (eg, AUX)
4. TAP the "from" regular button (eg, VOL+)
5. TAP the "to" DEVICE button (eg, CBL)
6. TAP the "to" regular button (eg, VOL+) - two Blinks

Not sure what you mean for # 2)

But follow link in mdavej to JP1 Instructions as likely find answer there.

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post #46 of 71 Old 12-27-2010, 06:13 PM
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There is no setup button on a logitech 300i. I am asking about how to do those things on a logitech 300i, not on a comcast remote.
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post #47 of 71 Old 12-28-2010, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjellj View Post

There is no setup button on a logitech 300i. I am asking about how to do those things on a logitech 300i, not on a comcast remote.

I gave you an answer here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1301598
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post #48 of 71 Old 12-28-2010, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjellj View Post

There is no setup button on a logitech 300i. I am asking about how to do those things on a logitech 300i, not on a comcast remote.

Sorry - this thread got derailed to RCRP05B

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post #49 of 71 Old 03-06-2011, 12:22 PM
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Anyone found the solution to the "Server Error Please sign in again to continue" error message when using myharmony.com to program their 300?

The forums at Logitech are full of complaints, with no answers I can see from Logitech. The "reinstall software" routine hasn't fixed it.

After having battery issues with my 880, where replacements don't quite fit and cost in excess of $40, and now this problem that isn't being acknowledged or fixed with the 300, I think I'm done with Logitech. Used to love 'em, but now I hate 'em.
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post #50 of 71 Old 02-23-2012, 05:40 AM
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Logitech Harmony 300i Universal Remote $14.

Do you guys have any input about this Remote. I don;t see much about it in the Forum, so any advise would be great before i buy it. It looks like a decent deal to me.
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post #51 of 71 Old 02-23-2012, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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There's not much to it, so I think everything has been said already. Bottom line is you can do a lot better for $14 (RCA RCRP05B for example). The only cases I see this remote being worthwhile are if you need to replace a very hard to find original remote or you have only a TV and one other device. Access to harmony's huge device database is a big plus. Only having one macro is a big minus.

All that being said, the $6 and up shipping makes this deal a lot less attractive.
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post #52 of 71 Old 02-23-2012, 06:52 AM
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Appreciate the quick response mdavej! I will look into RCA RCRP05B also.
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post #53 of 71 Old 03-18-2012, 08:56 AM
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Does anybody have the discrete codes for Samsung Home Theater System (Samsung HT-TZ515).

In particular I need the discrete code for the Aux1, Aux2 and D-IN keys for switching the audios for different devices.
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post #54 of 71 Old 08-11-2012, 11:39 PM
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I'd like to know how extensively you can control a fairly modern receiver with one of these when in Sound (or preferably AVR) mode? I was assuming like most Uni remotes there would be TV, DVD, BD, AVR, Sat/Cab mode buttons, and all the sub buttons such as volume control, 4 point arrow navigation, etc would work when in that mode, maybe even input changing when in AVR mode.

After a bit of Googling and searching this thread though, I come to find you can't even use the volume buttons once in Sound mode (otherwise why would you need to program the Fave buttons?).

I'm quite sure it would control my Panasonic TC-L32U3 and DMP-BD75 TV and Blu-ray player. The fine tuning settings on the receiver aren't done very often (mostly set and forget). I could use it's own remote for that, but I have everything hooked up to my PC and need to frequently switch from TV to PC audio inputs on the receiver (AV1, AV4), when switching video modes on the TV.

Perhaps there's a similar problem with some here as I found in my Googling. It seems this remote requires any receiver it's used for to have a mute function on the receiver's original remote. If not you CAN find a newer model that does and use it's model number.
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post #55 of 71 Old 08-13-2012, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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The 300 can't "extensively" control anything, and is limited to only one macro, so no easy input switching either. You need to look into a better model like the 600 or above. If you're on a budget, the $15 RCA I mentioned earlier will control anything, as well as your input switching and every possible function of your receiver. If you go that route, post back, and I can give you all the codes.
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post #56 of 71 Old 08-13-2012, 05:17 PM
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Yeah I looked at a lot of feedback on that RCA model and I'm not sure I'd want to go through what some are describing as far as it's software and programming being hit or miss at times, and JP1 cables are $25 or more, so. I looked at the URC WR7 instead. It's in a similar price range, has a backlight, and is the most purchased uni remote on Amazon and Newegg in that price range and gets rave reviews. I don't think it has a JP1 hookup, but it has extensive features, supports 7 devices, has punch through, input selection, etc. The only complaints are minor, like being a bit too bulky and an odd layout for some, though others say it excels there. I have fairly large hands and prefer a remote that has good button separation, so it might be ideal for me.
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post #57 of 71 Old 08-15-2012, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Glad it worked out. The WR7 is a good remote. The backlight is a plus.

But just to clarify a few points for others reading the thread:
- JP1 cables aren't at all necessary and can be built for around $5 using a $3 Nokia data cable from DealsExtreme.
- You can add discrete input and power commands to the RCA with codes (no cable required), but you can never add them to the URC. So the macros on the URC will never be bullet-proof (power toggle devices will sometimes get out of sync, and you can't go directly to specific inputs).
- Not sure how the JP1 software is hit or miss, but it's far more powerful and well designed than most, and any issues you may encounter are addressed immediately by the developers themselves. Plus our software supports over 230 different remote models. Nobody else supports anywhere near that or responds instantly to issues (of which there are very few). So you can imagine how difficult that is to support.

Here's a screen shot of the JP1 software. As an example of how easy it is, below, for any device, you just drag and drop any function on the right to any button on the left. You can even put different functions on the button and the shifted version of that button. On the other tabs/screens you can add/change/delete other functions, and even import pronto hex codes.


Having said all of that, I completely understand how JP1 can be more complicated than many people care for. Just mainly wanted to make the point that you can leave JP1 out of the equation and manually program the RCA just like the URC and still get a lot more functionality. If you add JP1 software and cable, then a whole new world of possibilities open up. So you get the functionality of a $200 remote in a $20 package. That's pretty hard to beat.
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post #58 of 71 Old 08-16-2012, 02:19 AM
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Thanks for the info mdave. Now that I re-read my post, I guess it did sound like I bought a URC WR7. I was saying I've only been reading about them and had narrowed it down to that one based on reviews I read.

If all that's needed is a Nokia data cable, why can't you just use one of the Nokia cables that has a mini plug on one end and USB on the other vs "building" one? Or can you? I did see one on Deals Extreme that runs about $5.

The models of Nokia cable I looked at on that site seem to all use a micro USB plug. From what I've read though you need a miniature 6 pin plug, and USB is only 4 pin.

I've seen pre-made DIY kits, some under $10, but they are the older style for serial port vs USB. The ones for USB are $25 or more. $5 seems unrealistic given what people are charging for DIY mini 6-pin/USB kits.

Are you saying if I get the right data cable I can just solder a USB plug to the other end of it? If so, is there any guides on how to do that, and can you tell me what model of cable I need?

As far as the software goes, I had no idea what it was like. I was concerned there might be a lot of hex editing because a lot of people say they have to refer to the JP1 forums extensively to get their remotes programmed properly.
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post #59 of 71 Old 08-16-2012, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi Def Fan View Post

If all that's needed is a Nokia data cable, why can't you just use one of the Nokia cables that has a mini plug on one end and USB on the other vs "building" one? Or can you? I did see one on Deals Extreme that runs about $5.
The models of Nokia cable I looked at on that site seem to all use a micro USB plug. From what I've read though you need a miniature 6 pin plug, and USB is only 4 pin.
I've seen pre-made DIY kits, some under $10, but they are the older style for serial port vs USB. The ones for USB are $25 or more. $5 seems unrealistic given what people are charging for DIY mini 6-pin/USB kits.
Are you saying if I get the right data cable I can just solder a USB plug to the other end of it? If so, is there any guides on how to do that, and can you tell me what model of cable I need?
I use the term "build" very loosely. With the Nokia cable, you are correct, it needs the right 6-pin connector at the end as well as a 4 conductor cable. I just pop open the USB end, solder on a pair of old CD-ROM audio cables from an old computer. Glue the 2 of them back to back, and you've got a 6-pin connector.

Older USB solutions were quite expensive because of the expense of the chip and complexity of the circuit. Now that we've recently found cheap Chinese ones mostly pre-made, prices have dropped dramatically and assembly became much easier.

However, one of our members recently found the easiest solution of all, if you can handle the $12 cost. Details are HERE. There are guides or at least detailed threads for all our designs. Just look in our file section or follow the links in the interface threads.
Quote:
I was concerned there might be a lot of hex editing because a lot of people say they have to refer to the JP1 forums extensively to get their remotes programmed properly.
We use a lot of codes mainly for the benefit of people who don't have JP1 cables. If you use the software, you only occasionally deal with numbers. Of course the brain trust that develop our software, and reverse engineer protocols and remotes use hex quite a lot. But the average JP1 user can get away with never dealing with hex and only using codes when creating a brand new device.

The way it usually goes is you get your remote, cable and software, the find upgrade files for all your devices on our site and load them into your remote as-is, with some minor changes per your personal preferences (change the button layout the way you like). When you encounter a new device that's not in our database, you'll learn all the commands from the original remote and make your own upgrade file with our tools. Our software analyzes your learns and spits out a 2 digit decimal number for each command which you need to type or paste into your upgrade file. So it's pretty simple. Most of the time you'll use upgrades created by others since most models within a brand use the same codes year after year. In the 10 years I've been doing this, I'd say 90% of the time any upgrade I needed already existed. When a new model comes out with a few new functions, I only have to add those new ones, not start completely from scratch.

While not as flexible, harmony software is easier overall. And the price is about the same as JP1 at the low end ($50 for a harmony 600 versus $20-$45 for a JP1 remote plus a cable). So if JP1 seems too complicated, any harmony except the 200 or 300 is a good alternative for most people. But as I said before, even without JP1 software or a JP1 cable, the RCA is far more powerful and flexible than a harmony 200 or 300. The URC WR7 is closer in functionality. The lack of discrete codes and no computer program-ability are the biggest drawbacks IMO.
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post #60 of 71 Old 08-16-2012, 10:34 AM
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Hmmm (scratches head), those cables on eBay look tempting, but I'm not understanding why previous pics I've seen of these remote cables show the 6-pin plug as being much smaller than the USB plug, whereas those ones actually look a bit wider.

Wait, I just noticed it says...

"The other end of the cable comes with a selection of different connectors supporting various applications."

...however it also says the contents shipped is merely...

Package:
1x USB to TTL Serial Cable


It would be nice if they'd verify via pics or contents description what exactly you're buying vs confusing people with a vague "selection of different connectors" contradicted by contents that only state the cable itself.

Again, would you please allude to this $5 option you referred to? (Exactly what model of Nokia cable and method for matching up wires to the USB plug end) According to the description of those cables on eBay, it apparently takes a micro circuit board to make it work too (which they say is concealed in the USB plug).

I'm not sure I get your "pop open the USB end" bit. I know one end has to be USB, but "pop open" the USB end vs just cut the other end of the cable off? The gluing two 3-Pin CD audio cables back to back makes sense, though it would be nice to have some pics or a more detailed guide if you know of any. Wouldn't any similar 3-Pin cable work? For instance two 3-Pin Molex adapters for fans.

I'm not even sure now why you mentioned the Nokia data cable. I was assuming it was to use it for the 6-pin plug, but then you tell me to use 2 old CD audio cables. Very confusing.

I think I'm getting now why it takes a lot of chat for many to get this kind of thing done. It's not necessarily the complexity of what's being done, but rather trying to get someone to explain it in a way that actually makes sense. tongue.gif
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