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post #9991 of 10014 Old 09-04-2014, 01:16 PM
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Oppo Player (103D) - Tokenized Feedback

I am trying to get the tokenized feedback for my Oppo to work. I found this feedback file in iRule's shared user library "Oppo Bluray Player - RS232-Mani Tokenized", but thus far no joy.

Non-tokenized feedback works fine, so I think there is something wrong with the syntax.

Has anyone gotten the tokenized feedback for the Oppo to work and could kindly share the file?

Thanks!
_____
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post #9992 of 10014 Old 09-05-2014, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citrus View Post
I expect that I will be using the same template on 2 devices which will have 2 different resolutions, 1280x800 & 1920x1080; will be checking if my iRule will be counted as 1 device as both are Android & with the same GUI.

paul
I was able to load my Samsung S2 handset onto the Kindle. They have different resolutions. The display isn't perfect but it beats reprogramming an entire new handset for something I use rarely. Counts as 1 handset.

The S2 can't load the kindle handset however. So the lower resolution one can be loaded onto the higher resolution, with limitations. It will even scale the button layout to the larger resolution depending on what grid size you use. I can't load my S2 handset onto the iphone, so the handset sharing ability may be only within the same OS.

I would expect if you wanted different handsets for you and your wife's same model iphone, it'd count that as 2 handsets.
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post #9993 of 10014 Old 09-05-2014, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Audixium View Post
I have been using Harmony remotes for quite a while. My current Harmony One is starting to die a slow death and line of sight has become an issue, so I paid for the pro version of iRule. I dutifully made custom activities/screens and am hoping to get some current hardware recommendations. For now I'll only be using iRule to control my living room setup:

Epson 3020 PJ (w/Klipsch reference series 5.1)
Vizio M Series TV (w/Vizio soundbar 2.1)

Denon X3000 (5.1 for PJ use, Zone 2 audio out to deck speakers)

xfinity X1
AppleTV
Wii
Panasonic BluRay

For the Epson I figured I'd need a wifi solution since it is ceiling mounted. For the rest I can do either wifi or ethernet. I'll use IR for everything except the Denon (serial). Are Global Cache products still recommended? I've read some posts discouraging the Flex line. What makes sense for my situation?
I'm using a similar setup. My TV and soundbar are in the master bedroom so I ran them off the pre-amp zone3 off my Denon 3133. That is with an analog soundbar. I stayed away from HDMI soundbar I think because I couldn't upscale the analog audio to it. I think.. man I'm getting old. Anyhow it's a nice easy way to get 5.1 A/V (zone1) , 2.1 A/V (zone2), and audio (zone3) out of a single receiver.

I have the Epson 5020, I just ran a long 3.5mm cable up to it and have an emitter stuck on it. I guess I could have done RS232 but I didn't want to buy another itach.

For the Denon, if you use more than one handset, you absolutely need the itach IP2SL to control it with RS232. If it's like my older model anyways, the IP control will only work with one device at a time. It would lock up with two handsets trying to control it. BUT, the IP2SL, can connect to all your handsets, and the Denon is happy, only has to talk to the IP2SL.

I wouldn't recommend IR control for the Denon, you'll miss out on feedback which adds so much to the experience.

On the epson however, I don't think you're missing anything just using IR. You can probably just aim an IR blaster at it also, depending on your setup. Mine has no wires or equipment visible, other than the projector and in wall speakers.


I'm guessing the Wii uses bluetooth remotes but has some sort of IP control ability. The PS3 requires you to buy a Logitech adaptor to convert the irule IR commands.




So back to your question, you need irule pro, (1) itach IP2IR with emitters, and (1) itach IP2SL. Don't be tempted by the other global cache all-in-one devices, they have limitations similar to the Denon where you can only connect to one handset. At least this is as of 1 year a go when I last researched it.
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post #9994 of 10014 Old 09-06-2014, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
I'm using a similar setup...
Thanks - I've been playing with the one iTach Flex IP I ordered. Overall I like it, but ran into a Zone 2 issue with Denon's IP control. My problem is that I can't get Zone 2 to power on (single handset, but I have launched the Denon app on a different handset within the last few days). This is the zone I'm trying to "fix" with a new remote solution.

Everything else works fine including the Denon Main Zone IP control. The only adjustment I had to make was to the very helpful auto-generated delay in the builder - (.7 sec delay for xfinity x1 box commands).

The included blaster seems really weak to me, or the ceiling mounted Epson is not very sensitive. I spent over 30 minutes trying to find a spot where the blaster would actually hit the Epson. The distance is about 10-12 feet. But worse is that the placement allowing the blaster to hit the projector is outside and facing away from the equipment cabinet, making it useless for the other devices. I have to place the blaster upside down and at a 45 degree angle to the projector on the ceiling. If I'm off two degrees on either plane the signal doesn't register. That leaves me with two emitters for five devices (xfinity box, Blu-ray, ATV, Vizio TV, and Vizio sound bar).

I planned to get an iTach Flex WF Serial for the Epson, but it sounds like I'll also need an iTach Flex IP Serial for the Denon. I originally figured iRule Pro + Denon and iTunes modules + two iTachs is what I'd need. At about $350 I consider it a significant step up from my old Harmony One. However, I've spent a TON of time working with the builder and consider that a flag for some other people. Add another one or two iTachs to my original setup and we're at $550 + my time (diy vs CI).

On one hand I enjoy the ability to customize, iterate, etc. There is a lot of flexibility in iRule. If an AV enthusiast likes to tinker, this is the adult version of tinker toys - build it however you want. It's great if you're skilled in Photoshop and have any sort of front end experience. I imagine the CI world loves this. Once I got over the learning curve I found myself enjoying the building process.

On the other hand there are alternatives like Roomie which require less time, but also offer less ui customization. After running into some bumps with iRule I checked out Roomie. There is some consternation regarding their pricing plans and upcoming/current changes. I thought the pricing was fine. I wasn't completely sold and decided to keep customizing with iRule.

Right now I've repurposed a 1st gen iPad. In the future I'm sure I'll introduce a handset type for the other household iOS devices (3x iPhone 5s and 1x iPod touch). First I plan to setup an IR path to another blaster/emitter in order to hit all of the devices. If that works I'll just deal with a single handset connection to the Denon. If that doesn't work I'll go all in and order more iTach Flex (w/serial connections as well as one w/IR).

I do like iRule so far...I already have a long list of custom panels that I want to setup (with about 15 pages done, working on 5 more). I can't imagine what I'll do once I introduce lighting, then variables.


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Last edited by Audixium; 09-06-2014 at 07:39 AM.
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post #9995 of 10014 Old 09-06-2014, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post
Thanks - I've been playing with the one iTach Flex IP I ordered. Overall I like it, but ran into a Zone 2 issue with Denon's IP control. My problem is that I can't get Zone 2 to power on (single handset, but I have launched the Denon app on a different handset within the last few days). This is the zone I'm trying to "fix" with a new remote solution.
Here's a tip... don't even use the "power on" command. Simply send the input command, and it will turn on to that input. Works every time on mine. I presume you have denon IP control set to "always on" and have fixed IP addresses for your equipment. If nothing else, I've had some buttons that didn't work for no good reason, until I deleted and re-created them. Also doublecheck any iffy irule commands against the Denon literature. I found some typos, particularly in feedback... and some good commands not in the irule import. I forget where I got the Denon IP command list.

Quote:
The included blaster seems really weak to me, or the ceiling mounted Epson is not very sensitive. I spent over 30 minutes trying to find a spot where the blaster would actually hit the Epson. The distance is about 10-12 feet.
why not just run a 3.5mm cable? I got a 50' one at monoprice for $5 to my projector. You already have to run a HDMI I assume, unless it's wireless. Is there some limitation of the itach your using? It looks tiny. The itach IP2IR I'm using has 3 IR ports. I use one for blaster (equipment rack hidden in closet), 1 for extension to projector, and 1 for extension to master bedroom equipment, with 2 emitters off the end of that for the soundbar and TV. You can run up to 8 things off it I think. You can get an emitter that has 2 or 3 heads on one cable, they're cheap. A 3.5mm wye would probably work too. Don't let that limit your setup.

Quote:
I planned to get an iTach Flex WF Serial for the Epson, but it sounds like I'll also need an iTach Flex IP Serial for the Denon.
I've looked at all the RS232 commands for the Epson, there is no benefit. If it had a toggle power button, I'd do it just for that, but it doesn't. Same as the IR command list. I didn't see the value in buying a whole itach just for it.

I didn't even consider anything other than iRule after seeing how inflexible the competition was. I guess Roomie now allows custom button placement though.

I have easily under $200 into my setup... builder, and 2 itachs, plus extra emitters, extensions, etc. I also had to buy a logitech converter for the PS3 but I probably would have with any system. And an embarrassing amount of time into the whole thing. You are right, you have to enjoy this stuff, because it is sooo time consuming.

Pick your handsets carefully. It's a bitch to rebuild for a different resolution, and after every change you make. At least if your pages and feedbacks are as extensive as mine.
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post #9996 of 10014 Old 09-06-2014, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
Here's a tip... don't even use the "power on" command. Simply send the input command, and it will turn on to that input. Works every time on mine. I presume you have denon IP control set to "always on" and have fixed IP addresses for your equipment. If nothing else, I've had some buttons that didn't work for no good reason, until I deleted and re-created them. Also doublecheck any iffy irule commands against the Denon literature. I found some typos, particularly in feedback... and some good commands not in the irule import. I forget where I got the Denon IP command list.
I do have the Denon IP control set to always on and the IP reserved by mac address. I’ll delete the power on command and see if that works. If not, I’ll try deleting the button and creating a new one. Thanks for pointing out the feedback info - I’m planning on incorporating that once I have control down.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
why not just run a 3.5mm cable? I got a 50' one at monoprice for $5 to my projector. You already have to run a HDMI I assume, unless it's wireless.
I ran a 30’ Blue Jeans HDMI cable through two walls and ceiling to the projector location about six years ago. I didn’t run any feeder tape/string to pull future cable runs. Unfortunately running a line outside the walls just won’t work in this case. Due to the eight bends inside the walls I doubt I could get another line run without messing up the HDMI.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
Is there some limitation of the itach your using? It looks tiny. The itach IP2IR I'm using has 3 IR ports.
The Flex is the update to the IP2SL and IP2IR. It has a single 3.5mm port that connects to either an IR breakout cable (3x emitters, or 2x emitters + 1x blaster) or a Serial breakout cable. The Flex supports 8 device connections. I might pick up an iTach IP2IR for the equipment cabinet and use a splitter on each of the three ports. Not elegant, but it might solve my IR issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
And an embarrassing amount of time into the whole thing. You are right, you have to enjoy this stuff, because it is sooo time consuming.
Nods head.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
Pick your handsets carefully. It's a bitch to rebuild for a different resolution, and after every change you make. At least if your pages and feedbacks are as extensive as mine.
I realized this after I spent considerable time building for an iPad. I started down the path of an iPhone 5 handset and noted that you must make the right choice at the beginning due to how iRule works. Luckily it was early on and so I was also able to setup my Photoshop template so that I can handle both 2x and 3x resolution in the future.

Once I get my IR situation worked out I’m sure I’ll have a hard time living without this cool, modern remote.


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post #9997 of 10014 Old 09-06-2014, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post
I ran a 30’ Blue Jeans HDMI cable through two walls and ceiling to the projector location about six years ago. I didn’t run any feeder tape/string to pull future cable runs. Unfortunately running a line outside the walls just won’t work in this case. Due to the eight bends inside the walls I doubt I could get another line run without messing up the HDMI.
Any chance the cable is loosely enough laid in the the spaces to just pull it through? Use it as a guide to pull a heavier duty string. Then re-pull the HDMI and a pair of CAT6 cables. Just put a decent about of tape on the end of the HDMI connection to help avoid it getting hung up. Or if the whole path isn't clear then what about an access panel or two strategically placed to allow for new pulls?

That or, as much as I dislike them, what about stuffing a powerline Ethernet gizmo up there? Or a wifi-bridge? Either of those would give you a way to connect an ethernet interface up there.
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post #9998 of 10014 Old 09-06-2014, 11:55 AM
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Audixium, use the HTTP commands for the Denon.


I bought an E300 last year for the bedroom, and the TCP/RS232 was flaky and also only allowed one connection at a time.


HTTP has been absolutely rock solid and allows more than one connection. Check the iRule builder for the Denon HTTP commands. You'll need to use an HTTP gateway when setting it up.
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post #9999 of 10014 Old 09-07-2014, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
Oppo Player (103D) - Tokenized Feedback

I am trying to get the tokenized feedback for my Oppo to work. I found this feedback file in iRule's shared user library "Oppo Bluray Player - RS232-Mani Tokenized", but thus far no joy.

Non-tokenized feedback works fine, so I think there is something wrong with the syntax.

Has anyone gotten the tokenized feedback for the Oppo to work and could kindly share the file?

Thanks!
_____
Axel

Axel,


Try this one labeled:


Oppo BDP-103 Bluray Player - RS232 - Tokenized


It's the third one in the community search just searching under "Oppo".


Good luck
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post #10000 of 10014 Old 09-07-2014, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjwinterberg View Post
Axel,


Try this one labeled:


Oppo BDP-103 Bluray Player - RS232 - Tokenized


It's the third one in the community search just searching under "Oppo".


Good luck
Thanks jj, will do.

_____
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post #10001 of 10014 Old 09-07-2014, 11:37 AM
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For future searchers...I found a solution to my iTach IR challenges.

I picked up an IR Repeater from Radio Shack since it was local. It has a single receiver, one 3.5mm transmission port, and a breakout cable with 6 emitters. I left one iTach emitter on the X1 box and stuck the other iTach emitter to the side of the Radio Shack IR receiver. I then used the six Radio Shack emitters on each of my six devices (except PJ) and updated the device/gateway routing. After a lot of experimentation I was able to point the iTach IR blaster just right and stick it to my cabinet so that it hits the projector every time.

With this iTach and IR repeater setup I can control the entire system using both the Harmony One and iRule. The best part is that the repeater was only $30 and significantly improved IR performance with the Harmony.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
Any chance the cable is loosely enough laid in the the spaces to just pull it through? Use it as a guide to pull a heavier duty string. Then re-pull the HDMI and a pair of CAT6 cables. Just put a decent about of tape on the end of the HDMI connection to help avoid it getting hung up. Or if the whole path isn't clear then what about an access panel or two strategically placed to allow for new pulls?

That or, as much as I dislike them, what about stuffing a powerline Ethernet gizmo up there? Or a wifi-bridge? Either of those would give you a way to connect an ethernet interface up there.
I appreciate the suggestions. But since I now have IR hitting the projector I'm definitely not considering pulling any cable. If I do go with a more robust solution down the road I'll just use the wifi version of the iTach Flex with IR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eatenbacktolife View Post
Audixium, use the HTTP commands for the Denon.

I bought an E300 last year for the bedroom, and the TCP/RS232 was flaky and also only allowed one connection at a time.

HTTP has been absolutely rock solid and allows more than one connection. Check the iRule builder for the Denon HTTP commands. You'll need to use an HTTP gateway when setting it up.
Thanks for the recommendation. I thought I tried that with Zone 2, but mixed with the TCP/RS232 in the main zone. I'll go back and setup both zones via HTTP. That is port 80 right? Worst case scenario I'll use the emitter I ran to the Denon for Zone 2 control. I really want the feedback for that zone if only to monitor my deck speaker volume. It sounds like HTTP may work.


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post #10002 of 10014 Old 09-07-2014, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post
For future searchers...I found a solution to my iTach IR challenges.

I picked up an IR Repeater from Radio Shack since it was local. It has a single receiver, one 3.5mm transmission port, and a breakout cable with 6 emitters. I left one iTach emitter on the X1 box and stuck the other iTach emitter to the side of the Radio Shack IR receiver. I then used the six Radio Shack emitters on each of my six devices (except PJ) and updated the device/gateway routing. After a lot of experimentation I was able to point the iTach IR blaster just right and stick it to my cabinet so that it hits the projector every time.

With this iTach and IR repeater setup I can control the entire system using both the Harmony One and iRule. The best part is that the repeater was only $30 and significantly improved IR performance with the Harmony.



I appreciate the suggestions. But since I now have IR hitting the projector I'm definitely not considering pulling any cable. If I do go with a more robust solution down the road I'll just use the wifi version of the iTach Flex with IR.



Thanks for the recommendation. I thought I tried that with Zone 2, but mixed with the TCP/RS232 in the main zone. I'll go back and setup both zones via HTTP. That is port 80 right? Worst case scenario I'll use the emitter I ran to the Denon for Zone 2 control. I really want the feedback for that zone if only to monitor my deck speaker volume. It sounds like HTTP may work.
Two things for you: the port may be 23, as I think Marantz uses the same settings. Check both to try it. Secondly, which part number is that Radio Shack piece? Combining a wand style and touch screen remote is the best in flexibility I think.

Erik
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post #10003 of 10014 Old 09-08-2014, 09:11 PM
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I'm just getting into some light home automation using a Vera 3, I got the automation module and am surprised. I thought it would be absolutely terrible based on stuff I'd read bit it's been nice and easy to use. Was able to get my Nests added, thanks for releasing the API finally Nest!


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post #10004 of 10014 Old 09-09-2014, 08:15 AM
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Well, I gave iRule a good go but in the end I just couldn't get used to no physical buttons. Perhaps they need to make their own physical remote and utilize their software to program it for people like me. :-)

I purchased the Pro version, is there any way I can sell my license to recoup the money I spent? Thanks!
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post #10005 of 10014 Old 09-09-2014, 08:31 AM
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Well, I gave iRule a good go but in the end I just couldn't get used to no physical buttons.!
Agreed, for individual channel surfing it's hard to beat a physical remote.

But for complicated setups and stuff there's a LOT to be said for the greater flexibility and programmability in stuff like iRule. Especially when it comes to providing spouse/kid/guest friendly ways to bring all the gear to life. Give them a couple of simple pages that jump through all the various hoops instead of driving them crazy trying to remember which button does what.

There's no reason you can't use both.

That's always been my plan. For most of our regular watching we make use of just a Tivo RF remote. But when it comes time to use other inputs, or get equipment back into certain modes (like after the cleaning lady swipes down the front panel of the gear, leaving it all in god-only-knows-what-mode) a tablet interface is a huge help.
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post #10006 of 10014 Old 09-09-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
Agreed, for individual channel surfing it's hard to beat a physical remote.

But for complicated setups and stuff there's a LOT to be said for the greater flexibility and programmability in stuff like iRule. Especially when it comes to providing spouse/kid/guest friendly ways to bring all the gear to life. Give them a couple of simple pages that jump through all the various hoops instead of driving them crazy trying to remember which button does what.

There's no reason you can't use both.

That's always been my plan. For most of our regular watching we make use of just a Tivo RF remote. But when it comes time to use other inputs, or get equipment back into certain modes (like after the cleaning lady swipes down the front panel of the gear, leaving it all in god-only-knows-what-mode) a tablet interface is a huge help.
Absolutely agree with your thoughts. We previously were using a Harmony that handled the different viewing scenarios but wanted to try using an iPhone instead. We've moved back to the Harmony and will probably remain there. Thanks
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post #10007 of 10014 Old 09-09-2014, 10:15 AM
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Absolutely agree with your thoughts. We previously were using a Harmony that handled the different viewing scenarios but wanted to try using an iPhone instead. We've moved back to the Harmony and will probably remain there. Thanks
Yep, sounds like we're on the same page. About the only time I'm willing to use a phone is out on the back patio. As that's about the only time I'm interested in carrying it while at home. The rest of the time the phone is in a cradle. Too many problems using a phone as a remote. Annoying stuff like poor battery life, or risks like falling asleep and having it fall onto the hardwood floor. Plain old physical button remotes have neither of those problems.

For the tablets I'm using some Nexus 7 2013 units. Along with Kidigi tabletop cradles for them. Qi wireless charging works great with them, even through a Cruzerlite TPU case.
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post #10008 of 10014 Old 09-10-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekkoville View Post
Two things for you: the port may be 23, as I think Marantz uses the same settings. Check both to try it. Secondly, which part number is that Radio Shack piece? Combining a wand style and touch screen remote is the best in flexibility I think.

Erik
Port 80 was the default for the HTTP gateway and now everything works fine. The IR repeater is this one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=20198406


Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post
I'm just getting into some light home automation using a Vera 3, I got the automation module and am surprised. I thought it would be absolutely terrible based on stuff I'd read bit it's been nice and easy to use. Was able to get my Nests added, thanks for releasing the API finally Nest!
Thanks - I didn't know that the iRule automation module included the Nest API. I'm off to buy that now.


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post #10009 of 10014 Old 09-10-2014, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Audixium View Post
Thanks - I didn't know that the iRule automation module included the Nest API. I'm off to buy that now.
No problem, I thought each one of the company specific automation modules was sold on their own, so I was surprised when the Nest API was available for use after purchasing the MicasaVerde module. Essentially everything labelled automation module is included in the single charge.


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post #10010 of 10014 Old 09-13-2014, 04:32 PM
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Hi, I missed this question you had for me... Yes, I am able to control Tivo Mini and Roamio with iRule on port 31339... I am sure you may already know this by now...
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post #10011 of 10014 Old 09-14-2014, 09:00 AM
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Saw the latest update at the CEDIA show... with conditionals! But it wasn't clear if there were timestamp conditionals or not. It would be VERY handy to have the ability to branch actions based on time of day. As in, after 10pm, use a different default volume setting (or bypass the AVR entirely). But even without that it's a welcome development!
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post #10012 of 10014 Old 09-14-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jjwinterberg View Post
Axel,


Try this one labeled:


Oppo BDP-103 Bluray Player - RS232 - Tokenized


It's the third one in the community search just searching under "Oppo".


Good luck
This one works - thanks again, jj.

On a semi-related note (but not related to iRule), it seems that the Oppo commands themselves for the "Set the time information display" are broken: I can switch to remaining time (e.g. STC T), but not back to elapsed time. The Oppo responds with an error message (ER INVALID), if I send a STC E or STC R command afterwards.
Again, this is not related to iRule. I have seen the behavior with Docklight. I may have to contact Oppo Support for this.

jj, do the various time information display switches work for you?

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post #10013 of 10014 Old 09-14-2014, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Axel View Post
This one works - thanks again, jj.

On a semi-related note (but not related to iRule), it seems that the Oppo commands themselves for the "Set the time information display" are broken: I can switch to remaining time (e.g. STC T), but not back to elapsed time. The Oppo responds with an error message (ER INVALID), if I send a STC E or STC R command afterwards.
Again, this is not related to iRule. I have seen the behavior with Docklight. I may have to contact Oppo Support for this.

jj, do the various time information display switches work for you?

____
Axel
Axel, I did some checking on my BDP-103 and was able to use each of the time code selections. The ability to use each of the codes is dependent on the type of disc. All disc types can use C and K. CDs and SACDs can use the E and R codes but not the T and X, because the concept of "total" disc makes sense. For Blu-rays and DVD-A because of the menus, the concept of titles comes into play. For these discs you can use T and X but not E and R.


See if this matches your observations.


John
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post #10014 of 10014 Old Yesterday, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjwinterberg View Post
Axel, I did some checking on my BDP-103 and was able to use each of the time code selections. The ability to use each of the codes is dependent on the type of disc. All disc types can use C and K. CDs and SACDs can use the E and R codes but not the T and X, because the concept of "total" disc makes sense. For Blu-rays and DVD-A because of the menus, the concept of titles comes into play. For these discs you can use T and X but not E and R.


See if this matches your observations.


John
Ahhhhhh! I believe you are spot on! I did some more testing tonight with Blu-Rays and the player behaved exactly as you said. Excellent!
Thanks so much for your help, John!
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