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post #10021 of 10031 Old 09-19-2014, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by audio2xs View Post
iTach units have to be configured for the blaster. It's in their web interface.


I am using an emitter on output #3 . I'm not following you as to why I am getting every 2 or 3 commands accepted. IR blaster - is that an emitter? Could this error be because I have it configured as a blaster?

Thanks for the help!!


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There are more than a handful of [op amps] that sound so good that most designers want to be using them as opposed to discreet transistors. Dave Reich, Theta 2009

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post #10022 of 10031 Old 09-19-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by osupike99 View Post
Yes there are shortcuts and if you need something that is not there, you can get the ID of the app from Roku's website. For example,

http://www.roku.com/channels/#!detai...-instant-video

See 13 in the URL? That's the ID of the app.





Alex
Alex, thanks. That helps. By the way, i was wanted to add Dish World app, and under dishworld i found the package. However are there codes for these channels within the DishWorld/Hindi sections, anyway to find these out? Here is the example.
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post #10023 of 10031 Old 09-19-2014, 12:19 PM
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The itach output must be configured for a blaster. Go into the web interface, you'll see it there. If that output is set for an emitter it won't work well at all with a blaster connected.
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post #10024 of 10031 Old 09-19-2014, 04:41 PM
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Back on the computer, I can be more detailed. In a browser, open the IP2IR or WF2IR's IP address. if you don't know it, download iHelp and run it, it will find the iTach beacon and tell you it's IP address. When you put the IP address into a browser, the web interface will open. Hit the "Infrared" link, and in the drop menu by Connector 3 you'll find the Blaster. Select that, you're good.
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post #10025 of 10031 Old 09-19-2014, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by audio2xs View Post
The itach output must be configured for a blaster. Go into the web interface, you'll see it there. If that output is set for an emitter it won't work well at all with a blaster connected.
I just checked my GC> I am set up on output 3 for IR out. So, all seems correct. I tried two IR emitters. Why am I getting only sporadic commands going through? I am right on top of the sensor and my other whole house multi-room emitter that is also on the same Xfinity box works perfectly?!

Not sure what to do...

What is the 'IR, No Carrier' setting?

Thanks for the help!


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There are more than a handful of [op amps] that sound so good that most designers want to be using them as opposed to discreet transistors. Dave Reich, Theta 2009
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post #10026 of 10031 Old 09-19-2014, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
I just checked my GC> I am set up on output 3 for IR out. So, all seems correct.
IR out is correct only for the small emitters, for the blaster on output 3 you must have it set for IR Blaster, your you'll get sporadic commands.
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Originally Posted by thebland View Post
I tried two IR emitters. Why am I getting only sporadic commands going through? I am right on top of the sensor and my other whole house multi-room emitter that is also on the same Xfinity box works perfectly?!
OK, lets take this a step at a time. When you say you tried two IR emitters, what kind are they? There are several kinds:
1. Single emitters with visible "flasher" indicator LED
2. Dual emitters (two on one connector) with visible "flasher" LED. These won't work with iTach, don't use them.
3. Single emitters with no visible flasher
4. Dual emitters with no visible flasher. These are OK to use with iTach.
5. high power IR "Blaster" emitters, designed for large area or long distance. These only work in Connector 3, and only when set for IR Blaster.

For iTach, the rule is one emitter with flasher LED per connector, or two non-flasher emitters per connector. Again, the blaster is special, connector 3 only.

Next, you should confirm that the emitter you are trying to use for the Xfinity box is on the correct connector, and that the device is assigned to the right output in your gateway configuration. You could be sending commands from the wrong emitter, and it will sort of work sometimes because the emitter is throwing just enough IR on the device sensor to work a little bit.

And next, the commands to Xfinity need to be paced a little more slowly. For direct channel access, I use a 1 second delay between commands.

Finally, what's this "other whole house multi-room emitter that is also on the same Xfinity box"? Is that some other system, like an IR repeater? If so, get that thing out of there. Some of those things just chatter a bit, throwing IR junk all the time unless the are hit with an actual command. That can literally jam what the iTach is trying to do. Disconnect that other emitter, make sure it's not active in any way, and try your iTach system.
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Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Not sure what to do...

What is the 'IR, No Carrier' setting?
Where do you see that?
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post #10027 of 10031 Old Today, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio2xs View Post
IR out is correct only for the small emitters, for the blaster on output 3 you must have it set for IR Blaster, your you'll get sporadic commands.

OK, lets take this a step at a time. When you say you tried two IR emitters, what kind are they? There are several kinds:
1. Single emitters with visible "flasher" indicator LED
2. Dual emitters (two on one connector) with visible "flasher" LED. These won't work with iTach, don't use them.
3. Single emitters with no visible flasher
4. Dual emitters with no visible flasher. These are OK to use with iTach.
5. high power IR "Blaster" emitters, designed for large area or long distance. These only work in Connector 3, and only when set for IR Blaster.

For iTach, the rule is one emitter with flasher LED per connector, or two non-flasher emitters per connector. Again, the blaster is special, connector 3 only.

Next, you should confirm that the emitter you are trying to use for the Xfinity box is on the correct connector, and that the device is assigned to the right output in your gateway configuration. You could be sending commands from the wrong emitter, and it will sort of work sometimes because the emitter is throwing just enough IR on the device sensor to work a little bit.

And next, the commands to Xfinity need to be paced a little more slowly. For direct channel access, I use a 1 second delay between commands.

Finally, what's this "other whole house multi-room emitter that is also on the same Xfinity box"? Is that some other system, like an IR repeater? If so, get that thing out of there. Some of those things just chatter a bit, throwing IR junk all the time unless the are hit with an actual command. That can literally jam what the iTach is trying to do. Disconnect that other emitter, make sure it's not active in any way, and try your iTach system.
Where do you see that?
This Xfinity supplies 3 tvs in the house that are rarely used plus one that gets used alot. I have a modulator system which has IR. That one works perfectly (same box). Likely when I get this working, I will not use the modulator and have disconnected the emitter to it for now.

I have tried 4 different lit, single emitters and get 3-4 commands for every 10 tries. All seems set up correctly in GC_100. The proper emitter #3 lights up when the command is sent, the IR emitter lites up and the Comcast box gives feedback (small light on front panel) when it executes a command. When the box has a command go through, the feedback light flashes. Upon a failed command from iRule, the emitter lights up but the box does not give feedback and there is no execution of the command.

I have tried 4 different lit up emitters. Changed from GC output 2, to #3 but no change.

It seems as if the box wants a stronger signal.

Even if I space commands 5-10 seconds apart, still the same rate of success.

Maybe I'll try different commands for the box. IS there a way to turn up IR signal strength in GC?

Thanks for the detailed help!!


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post #10028 of 10031 Old Today, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
This Xfinity supplies 3 tvs in the house that are rarely used plus one that gets used alot. I have a modulator system which has IR. That one works perfectly (same box). Likely when I get this working, I will not use the modulator and have disconnected the emitter to it for now.

I have tried 4 different lit, single emitters and get 3-4 commands for every 10 tries. All seems set up correctly in GC_100. The proper emitter #3 lights up when the command is sent, the IR emitter lites up and the Comcast box gives feedback (small light on front panel) when it executes a command. When the box has a command go through, the feedback light flashes. Upon a failed command from iRule, the emitter lights up but the box does not give feedback and there is no execution of the command.

I have tried 4 different lit up emitters. Changed from GC output 2, to #3 but no change.

It seems as if the box wants a stronger signal.

Even if I space commands 5-10 seconds apart, still the same rate of success.

Maybe I'll try different commands for the box. IS there a way to turn up IR signal strength in GC?

Thanks for the detailed help!!
There is no strength adjustment other than using a blaster, but this isn't a question of strength unless your emitter isn't in the right place on the box. Placement is critical. Can't really help you with that, you have to find the sensor and put the emitter right on top of it. Once that's done, it's not a strength issue.

This sounds more like a code problem, like the command set you're using isn't quite right, or perhaps was one someone created by learning. You might look around for a different code set.

If that's not working, it's really hard for me to make suggestions and not be there to see the result, but iRule support is excellent. Go to their website, go to Support > Contact Support.
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post #10029 of 10031 Old Today, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio2xs View Post
IR out is correct only for the small emitters, for the blaster on output 3 you must have it set for IR Blaster, your you'll get sporadic commands.

OK, lets take this a step at a time. When you say you tried two IR emitters, what kind are they? There are several kinds:
1. Single emitters with visible "flasher" indicator LED
2. Dual emitters (two on one connector) with visible "flasher" LED. These won't work with iTach, don't use them.
3. Single emitters with no visible flasher
4. Dual emitters with no visible flasher. These are OK to use with iTach.
5. high power IR "Blaster" emitters, designed for large area or long distance. These only work in Connector 3, and only when set for IR Blaster.

For iTach, the rule is one emitter with flasher LED per connector, or two non-flasher emitters per connector. Again, the blaster is special, connector 3 only.

Next, you should confirm that the emitter you are trying to use for the Xfinity box is on the correct connector, and that the device is assigned to the right output in your gateway configuration. You could be sending commands from the wrong emitter, and it will sort of work sometimes because the emitter is throwing just enough IR on the device sensor to work a little bit.

And next, the commands to Xfinity need to be paced a little more slowly. For direct channel access, I use a 1 second delay between commands.

Finally, what's this "other whole house multi-room emitter that is also on the same Xfinity box"? Is that some other system, like an IR repeater? If so, get that thing out of there. Some of those things just chatter a bit, throwing IR junk all the time unless the are hit with an actual command. That can literally jam what the iTach is trying to do. Disconnect that other emitter, make sure it's not active in any way, and try your iTach system.
Where do you see that?

Figured it out... The Comcast commands group I used was not the right one. When I downloaded a different set of codes, the later codes were the best ones for my box. Now everything is snappy!! Thanks! I assumed all code sets either fully worked or fully failed!

Thanks!!


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post #10030 of 10031 Old Today, 12:40 PM
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But one last issue!!!

None of the XFINITY code sets work for POWER toggle. Can't turn o=ON or OFF.

Any ideas? Or a source for more COMCAST XFINITY ON/OFF codes?

I copied the actual command with my IR PRO (IR capture) and have the files in a .CML file but I can also copy them via RTI (see attached).



How would I move this to iRule?


Thanks!
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There are more than a handful of [op amps] that sound so good that most designers want to be using them as opposed to discreet transistors. Dave Reich, Theta 2009

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post #10031 of 10031 Old Today, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
But one last issue!!!

None of the XFINITY code sets work for POWER toggle. Can't turn o=ON or OFF.

Any ideas? Or a source for more COMCAST XFINITY ON/OFF codes?

I copied the actual command with my IR PRO (IR capture) and have the files in a .CML file but I can also copy them via RTI (see attached).



How would I move this to iRule?


Thanks!
In the support/tutorial pages there's the procedure for "learning" commands from your original remotes. It's not too hard, but it is a little erratic, may take you a few tries to get it right. You'll want the iLearn software, it's a copy-paste type operation.

That said, I never use toggles. Ever. Just not worth the trouble. There's usually a way to "fake" a discrete on/off in a device that only has power toggle. For example, cheap disc players with power toggles will often turn on with a Play/Stop command sequence. That isolates the "on" function, then you can use the power command for off only.

However, I never turn of cable boxes in my installations because it takes too long for them to boot up again, and too much interaction from the user. For example, a Uverse box takes over 30 seconds to boot, then there are user prompts to respond to. Not good for automated system startups. Whereas, if I just leave it on and let it go to sleep, the only user input required to make it "live" again is a single keystroke, which I can send it during system startup. The user never sees it boot, and never has to wake it up. It's really not a big power issue, unless the owner is green to the max. I have never suggested it, but changing even one light bulb to an LED, or installing a smart thermostat accomplishes far more than turning off the cable box between uses.
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