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post #11221 of 11250 Old 03-19-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kirky27 View Post
Thanks for your encouragement and help. I would like to incorporate the LG volume slider. Your assistance again would be greatly appreciated.



I'm also thinking of replacing my AVR..... Do you have any recommendations? I have an Anthem but it doesn't support HDR and not full 4K.

Thanks.
Hey Kirky,

Volume Slider:

To get started with using the volume slider on your E6, first import the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" driver from the iRule devices library. Next click on the "MORE" tab to the right of the "FEEDBACKS" tab, and then expand the "Widgets" heading. Drag and drop either the "Vertical Slider" or "Horizontal Slider" widget into your control page. The slider can be edited like a button, so double click the slider and drop the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" device into the upper portion of the slider edit window. You will see the codes load into the slider. At that point you can close the slider widget. In your gateways, simply assign the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" to your existing LG serial gateway and you are ready to go. There are lots of settings for the slider, which you will find in the "Slider Properties" on the left side on the builder when you click on the slider widget. On Android devices, you may not have much control over the "bar thickness" setting - that's been my experience. The attached screenshots are iOS examples.

AVR:
I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-90 (2015 model) ( there are some good deals for this particular box out there ). The 2016 equivalent is the Pioneer Elite VSX-LX301. Either model is a 7.2 with Atmos support. 100 Watts/channel which is plenty for the size room I have my gear in. They both support 4:4:4/60 24bit 18Gb 4K passthrough, HDMI 2.0a, and HDCP 2.2. All my gear plugs into the back, and I use it as a source switcher. <$500

One of the cool things about these two Pioneers is that they will take a 1080P signal, and up-convert to 4K, so my AppleTV Gen 4, Firestick, and 1080P Blu-rays get an added boost in clarity and detail. AND . . . it will not interfere with a UHD HDR signal coming from the Oppo. I still use my Panasonic BDT-220 Blu-ray. ( I control the Panny using IP. It's flawless - go figure ).

I have custom drivers and feedbacks that I will gladly share if you end up getting one these Pioneer units. Their IP support is really good, and you can open as many as 4 ports, including telnet 23. I have had issues with the IP communications going to sleep or dropping off the network. A netscan still sees the unit, so I'm not sure what the deal is - so I am controlling using serial - it's bulletproof. I check their support site occasionally to see if there is a new FW update. If there is, I reconnect the unit to the net - run the update - and then back to serial. It uses a standard DB9 - DB9 - female to female NULL modem cable connected to my other IP2SL. 9600 baud.

Now . . . if you really want to have some fun, check out this box. I mentioned it in an earlier post, but you may not have caught it - as you were focused on getting the serial control working: http://www.murideo.com/prismahdr.html

Let me know what you decide about the AVR and how your slider is working.
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post #11222 of 11250 Old 03-20-2017, 12:30 PM
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Hey Kirky,

Volume Slider:

To get started with using the volume slider on your E6, first import the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" driver from the iRule devices library. Next click on the "MORE" tab to the right of the "FEEDBACKS" tab, and then expand the "Widgets" heading. Drag and drop either the "Vertical Slider" or "Horizontal Slider" widget into your control page. The slider can be edited like a button, so double click the slider and drop the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" device into the upper portion of the slider edit window. You will see the codes load into the slider. At that point you can close the slider widget. In your gateways, simply assign the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" to your existing LG serial gateway and you are ready to go. There are lots of settings for the slider, which you will find in the "Slider Properties" on the left side on the builder when you click on the slider widget. On Android devices, you may not have much control over the "bar thickness" setting - that's been my experience. The attached screenshots are iOS examples.

AVR:
I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-90 (2015 model) ( there are some good deals for this particular box out there ). The 2016 equivalent is the Pioneer Elite VSX-LX301. Either model is a 7.2 with Atmos support. 100 Watts/channel which is plenty for the size room I have my gear in. They both support 4:4:4/60 24bit 18Gb 4K passthrough, HDMI 2.0a, and HDCP 2.2. All my gear plugs into the back, and I use it as a source switcher. <$500

One of the cool things about these two Pioneers is that they will take a 1080P signal, and up-convert to 4K, so my AppleTV Gen 4, Firestick, and 1080P Blu-rays get an added boost in clarity and detail. AND . . . it will not interfere with a UHD HDR signal coming from the Oppo. I still use my Panasonic BDT-220 Blu-ray. ( I control the Panny using IP. It's flawless - go figure ).

I have custom drivers and feedbacks that I will gladly share if you end up getting one these Pioneer units. Their IP support is really good, and you can open as many as 4 ports, including telnet 23. I have had issues with the IP communications going to sleep or dropping off the network. A netscan still sees the unit, so I'm not sure what the deal is - so I am controlling using serial - it's bulletproof. I check their support site occasionally to see if there is a new FW update. If there is, I reconnect the unit to the net - run the update - and then back to serial. It uses a standard DB9 - DB9 - female to female NULL modem cable connected to my other IP2SL. 9600 baud.

Now . . . if you really want to have some fun, check out this box. I mentioned it in an earlier post, but you may not have caught it - as you were focused on getting the serial control working: http://www.murideo.com/prismahdr.html

Let me know what you decide about the AVR and how your slider is working.
Hi.

I'll try the slider this evening. These Pioneer AVR's....... Do they have configurable inputs like Anthem does? For example you may use HDMI2 across multiple listening activities instead of having to use a dedicated input/output for a particularly defined activity..... To be more specific I have lots of devices and my PS3 , for example, is connected using optical input 3 for sound from the PS3 .. However I also use OPT3 for pass-through from the LG streaming apps. So this allows me to reuse inputs/outputs when I have no extra ports.....

Additionally do you use any sort of room compensatory software/hardware? I use miniDSP and REW (for better subwoofer integration) + Anthem's ARC-M1 to minimize the effects of the non ideal room on the sound.

I'm interested in the Murideo.

The commands for the LG are working flawlessly-so far. I had loaded the HDMI input commands....they didn't work initially....so I looked up the commands in the manual and the overall structure was correct but the Command 1 was incorrect and the Data field was incorrect as well....so I had to manually edit....

I haven't tested the Oppo extensively as I spent the majority of Sunday rewiring my system and cleaning up the unsightly mess behind the AV stand.

Thanks.
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post #11223 of 11250 Old 03-20-2017, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirky27 View Post
Hi.

I'll try the slider this evening. These Pioneer AVR's....... Do they have configurable inputs like Anthem does? For example you may use HDMI2 across multiple listening activities instead of having to use a dedicated input/output for a particularly defined activity..... To be more specific I have lots of devices and my PS3 , for example, is connected using optical input 3 for sound from the PS3 .. However I also use OPT3 for pass-through from the LG streaming apps. So this allows me to reuse inputs/outputs when I have no extra ports.....

Additionally do you use any sort of room compensatory software/hardware? I use miniDSP and REW (for better subwoofer integration) + Anthem's ARC-M1 to minimize the effects of the non ideal room on the sound.

I'm interested in the Murideo.

The commands for the LG are working flawlessly-so far. I had loaded the HDMI input commands....they didn't work initially....so I looked up the commands in the manual and the overall structure was correct but the Command 1 was incorrect and the Data field was incorrect as well....so I had to manually edit....

I haven't tested the Oppo extensively as I spent the majority of Sunday rewiring my system and cleaning up the unsightly mess behind the AV stand.

Thanks.
Hey Kirky,

Here's some additional info on the Pioneer:

My Pioneer VSX-90, and the 2016 equivalent - the VSX-LX301 support both assignable and/or independent audio inputs. There are 6 HDMI inputs ( Inputs 1 thru 3 support HDCP 2.2 ). The VSX-LX301 has one digital coax, and 2 optical digital audio inputs. My VSX-90 has only 1 optical input and 1 coax digital input. I have my DirecTV 2K box, my AppleTV 4th Gen, and my Panasonic 2K Blu-ray connected to HDMI 4,5,6. My Oppo and my DirecTV 4K box are connected to HDMI 1 and 2. I have the optical feed from the E6 going to the optical input labeled TV on the Pioneer. The Main HDMI out from the Pioneer is connected to the input of my Murideo Prisma, and from the Prisma to HDMI1 on the E6. I don't have anything else connected at this point - and I have an open HDCP 2.2 HDMI input if I ever need it. I don't know how much stuff you have, but I'm thinking you might be able to plug everything into the Pioneer. There is also an HDMI port on the front of the unit, so you could get something going on the fly if needed.

I'm considering moving the DirecTV 2K ( HR54 ) box into the Master BR, because the 4K box (C61) can tune to any 2K channel and that will free up one of the WVB clients for use in the third BR. This will free up an additional non-HDCP 2.2 port on the Pioneer for future use. Also, the Panasonic Blu-ray is going into my daughter's room fairly soon. so that will free up another HDMI input on the back.

As for sound environment compensation, I use the built-in MCACC calibration system to get things balanced out and flattened. The Pioneer really does a great job with handling difficult acoustics, including reverb compensation, etc. ( My "Cinema" room has very tall ceilings and marble flooring, so it is a very "loud" room so to speak. Although Atmos content sounds great! ) It takes the Pioneer about 15 minutes to run through all the various testing / listening with the included microphone, and then things are pretty well set. From there I will pop in the Spears & Munsil Blu-ray and run their various speaker testing chapters to verify channel-volume balance, and then I use the equalizer function in the Pioneer "iControlAV5" app on my phone to "warm" up the sound a bit. The MCACC tends to flatten the sound a bit too much for my taste. I have a Sunfire Signature True Subwoofer, and the MCACC calibration system does a great job of taking out any low end holes /cutoffs between the mains and the sub.

Your Anthem is a very high end system, so you might want to take a closer look at one of the more top shelf Pioneer Elites such as the SC-LX 901 or LX 701 with Class D amps. They are new 2017 models with even more bells and whistles; and the high end level you have grown accustomed to. The good news is that the control codes have not changed other than a few new ones to address new features as they get introduced into the product line.

I'm really glad to hear that your TV control is now up to snuff. You will get similar results with the Oppo. Did you get the slider to work?
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post #11224 of 11250 Old 03-23-2017, 08:05 AM
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Hey Kirky,

Here's some additional info on the Pioneer:

My Pioneer VSX-90, and the 2016 equivalent - the VSX-LX301 support both assignable and/or independent audio inputs. There are 6 HDMI inputs ( Inputs 1 thru 3 support HDCP 2.2 ). The VSX-LX301 has one digital coax, and 2 optical digital audio inputs. My VSX-90 has only 1 optical input and 1 coax digital input. I have my DirecTV 2K box, my AppleTV 4th Gen, and my Panasonic 2K Blu-ray connected to HDMI 4,5,6. My Oppo and my DirecTV 4K box are connected to HDMI 1 and 2. I have the optical feed from the E6 going to the optical input labeled TV on the Pioneer. The Main HDMI out from the Pioneer is connected to the input of my Murideo Prisma, and from the Prisma to HDMI1 on the E6. I don't have anything else connected at this point - and I have an open HDCP 2.2 HDMI input if I ever need it. I don't know how much stuff you have, but I'm thinking you might be able to plug everything into the Pioneer. There is also an HDMI port on the front of the unit, so you could get something going on the fly if needed.

I'm considering moving the DirecTV 2K ( HR54 ) box into the Master BR, because the 4K box (C61) can tune to any 2K channel and that will free up one of the WVB clients for use in the third BR. This will free up an additional non-HDCP 2.2 port on the Pioneer for future use. Also, the Panasonic Blu-ray is going into my daughter's room fairly soon. so that will free up another HDMI input on the back.

As for sound environment compensation, I use the built-in MCACC calibration system to get things balanced out and flattened. The Pioneer really does a great job with handling difficult acoustics, including reverb compensation, etc. ( My "Cinema" room has very tall ceilings and marble flooring, so it is a very "loud" room so to speak. Although Atmos content sounds great! ) It takes the Pioneer about 15 minutes to run through all the various testing / listening with the included microphone, and then things are pretty well set. From there I will pop in the Spears & Munsil Blu-ray and run their various speaker testing chapters to verify channel-volume balance, and then I use the equalizer function in the Pioneer "iControlAV5" app on my phone to "warm" up the sound a bit. The MCACC tends to flatten the sound a bit too much for my taste. I have a Sunfire Signature True Subwoofer, and the MCACC calibration system does a great job of taking out any low end holes /cutoffs between the mains and the sub.

Your Anthem is a very high end system, so you might want to take a closer look at one of the more top shelf Pioneer Elites such as the SC-LX 901 or LX 701 with Class D amps. They are new 2017 models with even more bells and whistles; and the high end level you have grown accustomed to. The good news is that the control codes have not changed other than a few new ones to address new features as they get introduced into the product line.

I'm really glad to hear that your TV control is now up to snuff. You will get similar results with the Oppo. Did you get the slider to work?
Hello:

I've been a little distracted lately. I installed the slider but I haven't used it much. I have been playing with the Firestick as I have terminated my DirecTV account. Sling TV and Playstation Vue are much better alternatives in my estimation as I can get everything I want with those-without unnecessary fluff. I also have an antenna for local (OTA) channels.

FYI: If you are out of contract and you ask to be disconnected you may just be able to get a great deal on your current package-they offered such a deal to me but I passed on it....

I think I'm going to stick with Anthem and get either an MRX 1120 or the AVM 60. iRule has been rock solid so far. I am also in the process of implementing an Ethernet (only) network.

Thanks.
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post #11225 of 11250 Old 03-23-2017, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
Hey Kirky,

Here's some additional info on the Pioneer:

My Pioneer VSX-90, and the 2016 equivalent - the VSX-LX301 support both assignable and/or independent audio inputs. There are 6 HDMI inputs ( Inputs 1 thru 3 support HDCP 2.2 ). The VSX-LX301 has one digital coax, and 2 optical digital audio inputs. My VSX-90 has only 1 optical input and 1 coax digital input. I have my DirecTV 2K box, my AppleTV 4th Gen, and my Panasonic 2K Blu-ray connected to HDMI 4,5,6. My Oppo and my DirecTV 4K box are connected to HDMI 1 and 2. I have the optical feed from the E6 going to the optical input labeled TV on the Pioneer. The Main HDMI out from the Pioneer is connected to the input of my Murideo Prisma, and from the Prisma to HDMI1 on the E6. I don't have anything else connected at this point - and I have an open HDCP 2.2 HDMI input if I ever need it. I don't know how much stuff you have, but I'm thinking you might be able to plug everything into the Pioneer. There is also an HDMI port on the front of the unit, so you could get something going on the fly if needed.

I'm considering moving the DirecTV 2K ( HR54 ) box into the Master BR, because the 4K box (C61) can tune to any 2K channel and that will free up one of the WVB clients for use in the third BR. This will free up an additional non-HDCP 2.2 port on the Pioneer for future use. Also, the Panasonic Blu-ray is going into my daughter's room fairly soon. so that will free up another HDMI input on the back.

As for sound environment compensation, I use the built-in MCACC calibration system to get things balanced out and flattened. The Pioneer really does a great job with handling difficult acoustics, including reverb compensation, etc. ( My "Cinema" room has very tall ceilings and marble flooring, so it is a very "loud" room so to speak. Although Atmos content sounds great! ) It takes the Pioneer about 15 minutes to run through all the various testing / listening with the included microphone, and then things are pretty well set. From there I will pop in the Spears & Munsil Blu-ray and run their various speaker testing chapters to verify channel-volume balance, and then I use the equalizer function in the Pioneer "iControlAV5" app on my phone to "warm" up the sound a bit. The MCACC tends to flatten the sound a bit too much for my taste. I have a Sunfire Signature True Subwoofer, and the MCACC calibration system does a great job of taking out any low end holes /cutoffs between the mains and the sub.

Your Anthem is a very high end system, so you might want to take a closer look at one of the more top shelf Pioneer Elites such as the SC-LX 901 or LX 701 with Class D amps. They are new 2017 models with even more bells and whistles; and the high end level you have grown accustomed to. The good news is that the control codes have not changed other than a few new ones to address new features as they get introduced into the product line.

I'm really glad to hear that your TV control is now up to snuff. You will get similar results with the Oppo. Did you get the slider to work?
Also,

Could the Murideo be put in the video chain output AFTER my Anthem?

Thanks.
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post #11226 of 11250 Old 03-23-2017, 10:11 AM
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Also,

Could the Murideo be put in the video chain output AFTER my Anthem?

Thanks.
Yes. That's how I do it. The Prisma is all about HDR'izing any content and is resolution independent - so it will pass through anything. I have the Pioneer's main HDMI output going to the Prisma's HDMI input, and then from the Prisma's HDMI out to the E6. It is a one-in-one-out connection. The Prisma also has some really good video enhancement settings which you can toggle on or off. They really help with 1080i content.
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post #11227 of 11250 Old 03-24-2017, 05:38 PM
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Hey Kirky,

Volume Slider:

To get started with using the volume slider on your E6, first import the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" driver from the iRule devices library. Next click on the "MORE" tab to the right of the "FEEDBACKS" tab, and then expand the "Widgets" heading. Drag and drop either the "Vertical Slider" or "Horizontal Slider" widget into your control page. The slider can be edited like a button, so double click the slider and drop the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" device into the upper portion of the slider edit window. You will see the codes load into the slider. At that point you can close the slider widget. In your gateways, simply assign the "LG TV VOLUME SLIDER" to your existing LG serial gateway and you are ready to go. There are lots of settings for the slider, which you will find in the "Slider Properties" on the left side on the builder when you click on the slider widget. On Android devices, you may not have much control over the "bar thickness" setting - that's been my experience. The attached screenshots are iOS examples.

AVR:
I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-90 (2015 model) ( there are some good deals for this particular box out there ). The 2016 equivalent is the Pioneer Elite VSX-LX301. Either model is a 7.2 with Atmos support. 100 Watts/channel which is plenty for the size room I have my gear in. They both support 4:4:4/60 24bit 18Gb 4K passthrough, HDMI 2.0a, and HDCP 2.2. All my gear plugs into the back, and I use it as a source switcher. <$500

One of the cool things about these two Pioneers is that they will take a 1080P signal, and up-convert to 4K, so my AppleTV Gen 4, Firestick, and 1080P Blu-rays get an added boost in clarity and detail. AND . . . it will not interfere with a UHD HDR signal coming from the Oppo. I still use my Panasonic BDT-220 Blu-ray. ( I control the Panny using IP. It's flawless - go figure ).

I have custom drivers and feedbacks that I will gladly share if you end up getting one these Pioneer units. Their IP support is really good, and you can open as many as 4 ports, including telnet 23. I have had issues with the IP communications going to sleep or dropping off the network. A netscan still sees the unit, so I'm not sure what the deal is - so I am controlling using serial - it's bulletproof. I check their support site occasionally to see if there is a new FW update. If there is, I reconnect the unit to the net - run the update - and then back to serial. It uses a standard DB9 - DB9 - female to female NULL modem cable connected to my other IP2SL. 9600 baud.

Now . . . if you really want to have some fun, check out this box. I mentioned it in an earlier post, but you may not have caught it - as you were focused on getting the serial control working: http://www.murideo.com/prismahdr.html

Let me know what you decide about the AVR and how your slider is working.
Your remote screens are fantastic. How do I get mine to look like that? Do i have to use Photoshop? And the custom feedback. Are they difficult to design and implement?

Thanks.
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post #11228 of 11250 Old 03-24-2017, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirky27 View Post
Hi.

I'll try the slider this evening. These Pioneer AVR's....... Do they have configurable inputs like Anthem does? For example you may use HDMI2 across multiple listening activities instead of having to use a dedicated input/output for a particularly defined activity..... To be more specific I have lots of devices and my PS3 , for example, is connected using optical input 3 for sound from the PS3 .. However I also use OPT3 for pass-through from the LG streaming apps. So this allows me to reuse inputs/outputs when I have no extra ports.....

Additionally do you use any sort of room compensatory software/hardware? I use miniDSP and REW (for better subwoofer integration) + Anthem's ARC-M1 to minimize the effects of the non ideal room on the sound.

I'm interested in the Murideo.

The commands for the LG are working flawlessly-so far. I had loaded the HDMI input commands....they didn't work initially....so I looked up the commands in the manual and the overall structure was correct but the Command 1 was incorrect and the Data field was incorrect as well....so I had to manually edit....

I haven't tested the Oppo extensively as I spent the majority of Sunday rewiring my system and cleaning up the unsightly mess behind the AV stand.

Thanks.
How do you control your firestick?
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post #11229 of 11250 Old 03-25-2017, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kirky27 View Post
Your remote screens are fantastic. How do I get mine to look like that? Do i have to use Photoshop? And the custom feedback. Are they difficult to design and implement?

Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirky27 View Post
How do you control your firestick?
Thank you for the complements on my control screen examples. I have been doing this for quite some time now. It's become my "day job". I am an On Controls ( iRule pro ) premier dealer and one of their "partners in programming" members. My main focus is designing and programming tightly integrated remotes for a few manufacturers that are then marketed as an add-on solution with the purchase of certain equipment. This is a great thing for integrators who don't want to deal with the control part of the installation. I also design and code custom remotes for select commercial venues such as bowling alley and sports bar chains where they want the control system to be consistent across their locations. I only code for iOS due to better support ( hard to beat Apple's support ), better API's for graphic elements, and more stabile gateway acquisition and management.

Photoshop is my main weapon as far as buttons, backgrounds, etc. For some of the coding you noticed custom feedbacks where I'm creating interactive button images that change dynamically based on text feedbacks. I take advantage of iRule's assigned variable and conditional logic ( if / then / else ) functions to make that stuff happen.

I am controlling the Firestick using IP. The IP driver recently appeared in the iRule device library. Search for "FireTV". It works great. You will need to turn on ADB Debugging in the Firestick system. It runs on Android. I'm pretty sure you been in those menus before. Attached is a screenshot with the setup and gateway config instructions. You should make a button on the control screen with the "INITIALIZE CONNECTION" command. Sometimes you need to "wake-up" the Firestick after it's been playing content. Putting the same command in an entrance won't hurt either.

Also attach is a screenshot of my Firestick control screen.

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post #11230 of 11250 Old 03-27-2017, 07:46 AM
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Thank you for the complements on my control screen examples. I have been doing this for quite some time now. It's become my "day job". I am an On Controls ( iRule pro ) premier dealer and one of their "partners in programming" members. My main focus is designing and programming tightly integrated remotes for a few manufacturers that are then marketed as an add-on solution with the purchase of certain equipment. This is a great thing for integrators who don't want to deal with the control part of the installation. I also design and code custom remotes for select commercial venues such as bowling alley and sports bar chains where they want the control system to be consistent across their locations. I only code for iOS due to better support ( hard to beat Apple's support ), better API's for graphic elements, and more stabile gateway acquisition and management.

Photoshop is my main weapon as far as buttons, backgrounds, etc. For some of the coding you noticed custom feedbacks where I'm creating interactive button images that change dynamically based on text feedbacks. I take advantage of iRule's assigned variable and conditional logic ( if / then / else ) functions to make that stuff happen.

I am controlling the Firestick using IP. The IP driver recently appeared in the iRule device library. Search for "FireTV". It works great. You will need to turn on ADB Debugging in the Firestick system. It runs on Android. I'm pretty sure you been in those menus before. Attached is a screenshot with the setup and gateway config instructions. You should make a button on the control screen with the "INITIALIZE CONNECTION" command. Sometimes you need to "wake-up" the Firestick after it's been playing content. Putting the same command in an entrance won't hurt either.

Also attach is a screenshot of my Firestick control screen.

Thanks,

I saw the (fireTVstick) IP drivers. I will implement them later. As a work around I have the FireTv app launch whenever I use the stick.....

This weekend was interesting. I have two ASUS routers running DD-WRT and I spent some time creating a repeater bridge network as a temporary workaround... I'm having an installer wire the house with Ethernet but he can't do until next month.... So this suffices until then... I then spent some time making up CAT 6 cables....

I also had someone wall mount the E6 for me and I think he damaged the HDMI cable (while pulling it) as I started getting purple screens and "sparklies" from the Oppo .

I have to order replacements... I use BJC cable...

I like Apple too-sometimes.... but I think their superiority in the area of support (and design) is slowly being eroded . My MBP is starting to "give out"....

Hmm.... also I noticed that I had to unplug the LG twice because it had stopped responding to remote commands (both from iRule and the supplied Magic remote).

I wonder if this is a bug.. This happened after a sustained run of debugging my macros involving powering and and off the E6....


OK... that's how I spent my weekend .......
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post #11231 of 11250 Old 03-27-2017, 02:57 PM
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Happy to help.

I have two IPSL's. If I had known at the time that I was going to change my Pioneer VSX-90's control from IP to serial, while also controlling the E6 via serial, I probably would have opted for a GC100-12, but in hindsight I'm glad I got the two IP2SL's. The reason is that the IP2SL's can handle multiple simultaneous IP connections from multiple control devices; i.e. more than one iPad/iPhone trying to control the same equipment. In my particular case, I have an iPad handset, and my wife and daughter have iPhone handsets. All three of us can have iRule running at the same time and using the same gateways - and we don't experience the dreaded red gateway status indicator. The GC100-12 can only handle one control device at a time.


Have you tried the Moxa Nport series of serial device servers? The availability and price on eBay is so much better than what I've found from GC. I also like the ability to have multiple serial ports on one device; I use the 4 port servers.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOXA-Device-...AAAOSwTM5YvqYZ


Just FYI
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post #11232 of 11250 Old 03-27-2017, 03:57 PM
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Thanks,

also I noticed that I had to unplug the LG twice because it had stopped responding to remote commands (both from iRule and the supplied Magic remote).

I wonder if this is a bug.. This happened after a sustained run of debugging my macros involving powering and and off the E6....


OK... that's how I spent my weekend .......
A couple of months ago, I was testing a new HDBT matrix switcher. It was a prototype at the time, and the coding for the serial command passthrough feature was not fully implemented. The commands were encapsulated within a routing command string, and I was off with the byte count for the command, so the LG was not getting the full command string before the carriage return was sent. Eventually, I got the byte count correct and things worked as expected; but when the byte count was wrong, it would lock up the TV and I had to pull the power more than a few times.

It got me thinking that maybe something similar is happening with you. The baud rate is only 9600, so you may need to increase the delay between commands in your macros to slow down things a bit. It's possible that parts of the command are getting cut by the next command hitting too soon. If your delays are .02 sec, try .03 and see if that gets rid of it.
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Have you tried the Moxa Nport series of serial device servers? The availability and price on eBay is so much better than what I've found from GC. I also like the ability to have multiple serial ports on one device; I use the 4 port servers.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOXA-Device-...AAAOSwTM5YvqYZ


Just FYI
Thanks!! I didn't know about these. I already got the iTachs tho.. Bummer
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Thanks,

I saw the (fireTVstick) IP drivers. I will implement them later. As a work around I have the FireTv app launch whenever I use the stick.....

This weekend was interesting. I have two ASUS routers running DD-WRT and I spent some time creating a repeater bridge network as a temporary workaround... I'm having an installer wire the house with Ethernet but he can't do until next month.... So this suffices until then... I then spent some time making up CAT 6 cables....

I also had someone wall mount the E6 for me and I think he damaged the HDMI cable (while pulling it) as I started getting purple screens and "sparklies" from the Oppo .

I have to order replacements... I use BJC cable...

I like Apple too-sometimes.... but I think their superiority in the area of support (and design) is slowly being eroded . My MBP is starting to "give out"....

Hmm.... also I noticed that I had to unplug the LG twice because it had stopped responding to remote commands (both from iRule and the supplied Magic remote).

I wonder if this is a bug.. This happened after a sustained run of debugging my macros involving powering and and off the E6....


OK... that's how I spent my weekend .......
Logical explanation. I have come across this before so my default gap between instructions is 0.5 seconds. For example when using the fireTVstick see attachment.
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Logical explanation. I have come across this before so my default gap between instructions is 0.5 seconds. For example when using the fireTVstick see attachment.
In your macro example, I see a WOL command. What device is that intended for? Also, the total delay time from when you send the "Power On" command for the LG, and when you subsequently send the HDMI 2 Input command is only 1 second. The LG boots fairly quickly, but you might consider giving it around 3-5 seconds from the Power On command before sending another command. That could explain a partial code transmit causing a lockup.
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In your macro example, I see a WOL command. What device is that intended for? Also, the total delay time from when you send the "Power On" command for the LG, and when you subsequently send the HDMI 2 Input command is only 1 second. The LG boots fairly quickly, but you might consider giving it around 3-5 seconds from the Power On command before sending another command. That could explain a partial code transmit causing a lockup.
The WOL is for the E6. I could move the HDMI command further down. Or add the delay.

Thanks.
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The WOL is for the E6. I could move the HDMI command further down. Or add the delay.

Thanks.
You don't need the WOL for the E6 if you are controlling with serial.
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You don't need the WOL for the E6 if you are controlling with serial.
Oh yes that's left over from when I was using IP to control the E6.

I'll remove it thank you.
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In your macro example, I see a WOL command. What device is that intended for? Also, the total delay time from when you send the "Power On" command for the LG, and when you subsequently send the HDMI 2 Input command is only 1 second. The LG boots fairly quickly, but you might consider giving it around 3-5 seconds from the Power On command before sending another command. That could explain a partial code transmit causing a lockup.
Hello:

I have been a little busy with stuff around the house but my iRule implementation seems to be working very well now.

I a have question though. I have both (Amazon's) fireTVstick-wireless and a fireTV-wired and they sometimes drop off the network. When I startup my system, say the next morning, I get an error message ".....Home Network is unavailable.....". I did some research and superficial troubleshooting. It seems that both devices are entering sleep mode.

There is no user accessible command to prevent the devices entering sleep mode-just the menu to alter screensaver behavior.

However I was able to use an ADB command:

[adb shell settings put system sleep_timeout 2147460000].

to alter the sleep settings to prevent sleep (I put mine at 24 hours). This prevented both devices from entering sleep mode and I no longer get this error message after turning off my system for 24 hours or more.

There is another way to prevent this by modifying the settings database but the device needs to be rooted and this is not currently possible with the firmware 5.2.4.0 I believe.

I'm curious...Have you experienced this phenomenon?

Thanks.
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Hello:

I have been a little busy with stuff around the house but my iRule implementation seems to be working very well now.

I a have question though. I have both (Amazon's) fireTVstick-wireless and a fireTV-wired and they sometimes drop off the network. When I startup my system, say the next morning, I get an error message ".....Home Network is unavailable.....". I did some research and superficial troubleshooting. It seems that both devices are entering sleep mode.

There is no user accessible command to prevent the devices entering sleep mode-just the menu to alter screensaver behavior.

However I was able to use an ADB command:

[adb shell settings put system sleep_timeout 2147460000].

to alter the sleep settings to prevent sleep (I put mine at 24 hours). This prevented both devices from entering sleep mode and I no longer get this error message after turning off my system for 24 hours or more.

There is another way to prevent this by modifying the settings database but the device needs to be rooted and this is not currently possible with the firmware 5.2.4.0 I believe.

I'm curious...Have you experienced this phenomenon?

Thanks.
No, I haven't. I've never seen the error message you are getting. In fact, I just checked again, and although I needed to press the "Initialize Connection" button to get the Fstick out of sleep mode; after about 5-10 seconds my home screen appeared, and all was good.

My stick has a static IP address assigned to it - I don't know if that would make a difference. It shouldn't, but you never know. More puzzling is why the FireTV would also get that error - being that it's hard wired. In my experience it shouldn't matter if they sleep. I have my AppleTV sleep setting set to "Never" which helped with the iRule AppleTV module not waking up the AppleTV, but I've never had a problem getting the stick to wake up.

I would point the finger at something going on with your network. Do you have a managed switch/router with loop protection ( Spanning Tree in Cisco speak ) enabled? Or, maybe the DHCP lease time is knocking them off the network? If you haven't done so, try static IP addresses and see if that clears it up.
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No, I haven't. I've never seen the error message you are getting. In fact, I just checked again, and although I needed to press the "Initialize Connection" button to get the Fstick out of sleep mode; after about 5-10 seconds my home screen appeared, and all was good.

My stick has a static IP address assigned to it - I don't know if that would make a difference. It shouldn't, but you never know. More puzzling is why the FireTV would also get that error - being that it's hard wired. In my experience it shouldn't matter if they sleep. I have my AppleTV sleep setting set to "Never" which helped with the iRule AppleTV module not waking up the AppleTV, but I've never had a problem getting the stick to wake up.

I would point the finger at something going on with your network. Do you have a managed switch/router with loop protection ( Spanning Tree in Cisco speak ) enabled? Or, maybe the DHCP lease time is knocking them off the network? If you haven't done so, try static IP addresses and see if that clears it up.
I think it is my network too. I'm going to reexamine my router settings. I made some changes recently but luckily I made a backup before.... So I don't have to start from scratch... Just reload settings.. Well thank you for your suggestion. Always helpful.... :-)
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post #11242 of 11250 Old 04-13-2017, 12:03 AM
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Wrote an email to irule support today to see if were going to get anymore support. Ive noticed a couple updates on the Apple devices ( there will be many more ) and just want to make sure they have forgotten about us. Also is there is anymore future add ons. Hopefully I get a reply.

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I hope you get a response and that it is positive. Something happened here - people ran flat on this product. I still love it and it works great. There are some options I really wish we had - like managing gateways online rather than in the IOS device. We will see what happens but for the most part the remote works very well. I would love some harmony like physical remote but I think that goes against what they were after.
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I hope you get a response and that it is positive. Something happened here - people ran flat on this product. I still love it and it works great. There are some options I really wish we had - like managing gateways online rather than in the IOS device. We will see what happens but for the most part the remote works very well. I would love some harmony like physical remote but I think that goes against what they were after.


I hope so too. Irule is awesome and I hope we still get support. Problem is if they stop supporting us these hardware devices ( iPads etc ) will still get their manufacture software updates which we will then find irule will not be able to function properly because the app hasn't been updated to coincide with the manufacturer software.

I've even tried Facebook awhile back with no reply.



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post #11245 of 11250 Old 04-13-2017, 05:28 AM
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If not iRule is there any options? I've done some reasearch and there doesn't seem like there is any others that are so well integrated (tried roomie remote and it doesn't seem to fit the bill)
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I received a short reply saying support will still be provided. So that is good news, for now.



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post #11247 of 11250 Old 04-22-2017, 06:56 PM
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I hope so too. Irule is awesome and I hope we still get support. Problem is if they stop supporting us these hardware devices ( iPads etc ) will still get their manufacture software updates which we will then find irule will not be able to function properly because the app hasn't been updated to coincide with the manufacturer software.

I've even tried Facebook awhile back with no reply.


So I just realized I never got a response from iRule. Kinda disappointing. I guess I will continue to use it the way it is until something better comes along. I mean I think the interface to develop interfaces leaves a lot to be desired especially when its high resolution and I develop on my 15" macbook. Anyway something here certainly changed product wise and the community either developed what they were looking for all around or people have moved on. I think a lot of the retail products (harmony and what not) have grown in the past few years where iRule seems to be a bit stagnant.
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So I just realized I never got a response from iRule. Kinda disappointing. I guess I will continue to use it the way it is until something better comes along. I mean I think the interface to develop interfaces leaves a lot to be desired especially when its high resolution and I develop on my 15" macbook. Anyway something here certainly changed product wise and the community either developed what they were looking for all around or people have moved on. I think a lot of the retail products (harmony and what not) have grown in the past few years where iRule seems to be a bit stagnant.


I agree, I looked at roomie remote to see how theyre going and they have grown - simple control. I hope irule takes that path.


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post #11249 of 11250 Old 04-23-2017, 04:57 AM
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If you are looking for a way to control your home devices / theater from an "app" on your phone or tablet, the "master controllers" all do this.
One of the "advantages" is they work on your own local system that you install and are not reliant on the "cloud" service to be available (internet down, or worse case - the provider stops supporting the service).
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post #11250 of 11250 Old Yesterday, 11:17 PM
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Is there an irule FAQ somewhere?

Otherwise I'll have to search through 11k posts and/or ask the same questions that have probably already been asked many times.

But let me start with what may be a showstopper - can it control a Lutron RF dimmer?

Noah
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