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post #1651 of 1659 Unread Yesterday, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post
Raj if the issue is your TV powering down then try using the discreet power on and power off commands as opposed to power toggle. Most TVs have a separate command for situations just like yours.

In my very complex multi room setup I manage all my TVs with discrete power on then only have the TV power off with the final system power down. Never use TV toggle as it can mess up things.

This is how I understood your question but I'm not sure if this is exactly what you were asking about.
Hello

Thanks for your response. I did try the discreet on/off, but still have issues. I went in to TV and selected power for all activities. This solved the problem. My only worry is in my media room, this will not work. My projector cannot be on for activities like playing music. I will try again with discreet commands.

Using discreet commands, do you mention power off under Stop Commands for each activity?

Cheers
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post #1652 of 1659 Unread Today, 05:18 AM
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Hi Raj,

My suggested best practice from experience is to enter in discreet power off commands for each device in the "System Off" button. Therefore, by pressing that button, you know for a fact all your devices will be off and in an off state. The only exception here is don't use any devices that have only power toggle.

If I understand you correctly, yes I do indeed have the discreet power off for devices in the "Stop" commands. You simply enter in the discreet power off for any device you want to turn off when you switch activities. That's the best practice way of doing this.

For example, if I have an activity that is "watch Blu-ray" and this is your projector setup, then I'd use discreet power on for the projector and Blu-ray. I'd then have discreet power off for those devices in the "stop". I would not, however, have discreet power off for the receiver, etc. The assumption here is that if you are switching from one activity to another you want those devices turned on.

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post #1653 of 1659 Unread Today, 09:23 AM
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Roomie Blaster Adapters

I've got Roomie running on an iPad, controlling all of my IP compatible equipment, works perfectly. I only have two components that are not IP compatible, namely a Samsung LCD TV and a Sony projector. Both of them are in the same room, but are probably 15-20 feet apart. I'm looking at the Roomie blaster adapter, wondering what the IR "spread" is for the included blaster. To use a single blaster, it would need to control the two devices, roughly 20 feet away and about 90 degrees apart from each other. If that doesn't work, is it possible to connect two blasters to the same adapter so that I could angle them directly to the two devices?
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post #1654 of 1659 Unread Today, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dlambermont View Post
I've got Roomie running on an iPad, controlling all of my IP compatible equipment, works perfectly. I only have two components that are not IP compatible, namely a Samsung LCD TV and a Sony projector. Both of them are in the same room, but are probably 15-20 feet apart. I'm looking at the Roomie blaster adapter, wondering what the IR "spread" is for the included blaster. To use a single blaster, it would need to control the two devices, roughly 20 feet away and about 90 degrees apart from each other. If that doesn't work, is it possible to connect two blasters to the same adapter so that I could angle them directly to the two devices?
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post #1655 of 1659 Unread Today, 09:44 AM
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I think the blaster will only work on port 3. Is running emitter wiring to both devices out of the question?
Not sure what you need controlled on TV but if its only power - will HDMI/CEC work?
If you put the blaster near the TV and used a wired emitter to the TV and bounced the blaster off the screen to get to the projector you might have a chance.
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post #1656 of 1659 Unread Today, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hgmobile View Post
I think the blaster will only work on port 3. Is running emitter wiring to both devices out of the question?
Not sure what you need controlled on TV but if its only power - will HDMI/CEC work?
If you put the blaster near the TV and used a wired emitter to the TV and bounced the blaster off the screen to get to the projector you might have a chance.
No way I could run emitter wiring, the TV and projector are almost 20 feet apart and separated by a partial wall. TV doesn't support CEC. Projector is supposed to handle Power ON, but not Power Off/Standby.

I think I'll try one roomie blaster, and if it doesn't work on both, I'll think about getting a second one.
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post #1657 of 1659 Unread Today, 12:44 PM
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Only port 3 can run a blaster. You will need two IP transmitters if you want two boasters.
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post #1658 of 1659 Unread Today, 12:46 PM
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And as an addendum you need to log in and explicitly configure port 3 to function as a blaster. It's not set that way by default.
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post #1659 of 1659 Unread Today, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post
Only port 3 can run a blaster. You will need two IP transmitters if you want two boasters.
I guess that's what I meant - if it doesn't work, buy a second transmitter. With two, I could mount one directly to the projector and the second in the cabinet behind the TV. Of course, I'd be spending close to $250 just to power those two devices on and off. I'll mull that over if plan A fails. Thanks for the info!
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