Official URC R40 Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #271 of 303 Old 07-06-2014, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy333 View Post
Hello,

I'm programming my R40 and would like to know if it is possible to add spaces in the button labels?


Thanks in advance!

Siegfried
After you type a letter, to leave a space press the right cursor key once, continue. If you are erasing at you enter a new label, press the down cursor and than the right. You can also find a space on the #9 key, after Y, Z, Space, 9.
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post #272 of 303 Old 07-06-2014, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edmund View Post
After you type a letter, to leave a space press the right cursor key once, continue. If you are erasing at you enter a new label, press the down cursor and than the right. You can also find a space on the #9 key, after Y, Z, Space, 9.
Thank you very much for the info.

Siegfried
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post #273 of 303 Old 08-30-2014, 04:46 PM
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Nm.....figured it out....

Last edited by KonaBound2010; 08-30-2014 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Typo's
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post #274 of 303 Old 09-17-2014, 02:38 PM
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how do we set up URC R40 to control sat and tivo using those controls via ir, not the tv itself.
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post #275 of 303 Old 10-10-2014, 11:21 AM
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Need help programming Smart TV functions.

Just bought this remote. New to this forum. Point me in the right direction if I have posted in the wrong thread.

I have a Samsung Smart TV. The original remote has a dedicated button to put it into smart TV mode. The best option I have found to do this is to program a new main menu button (I guess that would be called a device button) as my Smart TV button and copy over most of the functions from my TV Device. Realize that I can program a smart TV button as a device screen button, but that's too complicated for the wife and kids, they like having the smart TV on the main screen. Set it up and it works except for one thing. When I hit the button, the TV goes into Smart TV mode and I can see the smart TV menu, etc and all the other functions work well... except for the navigation function - the round circle. I need this to navigate through my smart TV menu but it will not work. I tried copying jus tthe channel and menu functions from the TV device, but nothing will stick to the circle to navigate the smart TV menu. When I hit the TV device and go into TV mode the nav circle works fine, so I'm a bit stumped as it seems that the function is then not being copied over to the Smart TV device button.

Appreciate any advice on how to get this working or how to set up an alternative.

Last edited by Coop2; 10-10-2014 at 11:27 AM. Reason: P.S. How do I subscribe to a thread, don;t see any "subscribe" link/button
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post #276 of 303 Old 10-19-2014, 10:15 AM
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Genie Remote help

Hello. New to the boards. I am having trouble programming the "enter" button from DirecTv's Genie remote to the R40. The enter button on the Genie can be short-pressed for "enter" or long-pressed for "input." When trying to learn "enter" to my R40, it learns it as "input" instead because of having to long press the button in order to learn.

Anyone have a Genie that they've programmed to this remote? I'd appreciate the help!
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post #277 of 303 Old 10-19-2014, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB10 View Post
Hello. New to the boards. I am having trouble programming the "enter" button from DirecTv's Genie remote to the R40. The enter button on the Genie can be short-pressed for "enter" or long-pressed for "input." When trying to learn "enter" to my R40, it learns it as "input" instead because of having to long press the button in order to learn.

Anyone have a Genie that they've programmed to this remote? I'd appreciate the help!
For cleaner learns off of the directv white remote, turn off the extra signal sent with each button press:


1. dtv
2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks, release
3. enter 9 6 3
4. press CH DOWN


After teaching, to turn it back on, do the same steps but in the fourth step press CH UP key.
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post #278 of 303 Old 10-19-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edmund View Post
For cleaner learns off of the directv white remote, turn off the extra signal sent with each button press:


1. dtv
2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks, release
3. enter 9 6 3
4. press CH DOWN


After teaching, to turn it back on, do the same steps but in the fourth step press CH UP key.

I couldn't get that to work. #1 you mean on the DTV remote I assume? When I did the mute and select, it flashed twice and then I pressed 9,6, but when I press 3 the light turns red and doesn't seem to accept the number.
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post #279 of 303 Old 11-08-2014, 05:10 PM
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Well...I got one of these since I have two MX-810s that I can no longer program (since I no longer have an Windows XP computer)

The programming is a bit confusing....I keep pressing the wrong button and loosing everything I did. ...not sure how this will work in the end.....I guess I can do activities with macros - like watch TV. Pause and hold macros on the device in the main menu? The instructions have Watch DVD in the screen title of the device and mine doesn't do that.
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post #280 of 303 Old 11-10-2014, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by knoxtn View Post
Well...I got one of these since I have two MX-810s that I can no longer program (since I no longer have an Windows XP computer)

The programming is a bit confusing....I keep pressing the wrong button and loosing everything I did. ...not sure how this will work in the end.....I guess I can do activities with macros - like watch TV. Pause and hold macros on the device in the main menu? The instructions have Watch DVD in the screen title of the device and mine doesn't do that.
A day later update....

I did a little practice and got used to the quirks and now I like it. I found the internal device codes were OK...sometimes they had the discreet power on/off but not always (eg my OPPO DVD). My TV doesn't have discreet codes for inputs --- (neither does the TV remote)

Also trying to move some soft keys to hard keys and can't do it. I want to move my Directv FF/REW to SKIP + SKIP - and can't do it.

Also can't figure out how to macro an activity and still have the device itself available without using the 2 s delay. I'd like to have a "Watch DVD" activity for instance and still have a DVD device available. I had trouble also with programming a SONY Hi Rez hard disk player......it wasn't in the database --- so how do you start with an empty device and no database keys?

But all in all.....looks OK
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post #281 of 303 Old 11-10-2014, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knoxtn View Post
...My TV doesn't have discreet codes for inputs --- (neither does the TV remote)
TV remote never has discrete input buttons. Are you sure there are no codes? What model TV?
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post #282 of 303 Old 11-12-2014, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mdavej View Post
TV remote never has discrete input buttons. Are you sure there are no codes? What model TV?
My MX-810 codes for the same TV do indeed have discreet codes for the inputs (HDMI1, 2, etc)......it just occurred to me that I didn't try enough of the embedded r40 codes..........Panasonic has quite a few in there and I took the first one which worked with on/off/menu

I also figured out how to put a macro to an activity......it is soooo simple....just edit the button name of an unused blank button ( call it Watch DVDs for instance)....and then assign a macro to it.

Couldn't be easier.
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post #283 of 303 Old 12-03-2014, 05:14 PM
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I recently purchased a URC-R40 and everything is working but the skip buttons. If I press either of the SKIP buttons, they work the first time but if I press them a second time, nothing. The transmit icon flashes red, but nothing happens. The REW and FWD buttons work with repeated presses but not the SKIP buttons. The same thing happens if I learn the SKIP buttons on the number pad as well. Any ideas?
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post #284 of 303 Old 12-04-2014, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew67 View Post
I recently purchased a URC-R40 and everything is working but the skip buttons. If I press either of the SKIP buttons, they work the first time but if I press them a second time, nothing. The transmit icon flashes red, but nothing happens. The REW and FWD buttons work with repeated presses but not the SKIP buttons. The same thing happens if I learn the SKIP buttons on the number pad as well. Any ideas?
Did you "learn" the buttons or were they part of a "built-in" code? If the former, definitely try reprogramming with different button-press durations.

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post #285 of 303 Old 12-04-2014, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
Did you "learn" the buttons or were they part of a "built-in" code? If the former, definitely try reprogramming with different button-press durations.
I had to learn the buttons. The codes provide either a working SKIP or a working FF/RWD but not both. So I need to learn one or the other. I tried short and long presses while learning. This is with my DVR (windows media center), maybe I should try learning similar commands on my blu-ray player and see if it's a limitation on learning or the remote button being learned. (Why does that sentence not sound correct.)

Frustrating. Seems like a simple thing to learn.
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post #286 of 303 Old 12-04-2014, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew67 View Post
I had to learn the buttons. The codes provide either a working SKIP or a working FF/RWD but not both. So I need to learn one or the other. I tried short and long presses while learning. This is with my DVR (windows media center), maybe I should try learning similar commands on my blu-ray player and see if it's a limitation on learning or the remote button being learned. (Why does that sentence not sound correct.)

Frustrating. Seems like a simple thing to learn.
Dual-function buttons are the hardest to learn; lots of trial and error. I've even used a (different) learning remote as a go-between to teach a learning remote that has trouble with certain frequencies/codes/etc.

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post #287 of 303 Old 12-04-2014, 11:55 PM
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MCE protocol used by WMC has toggle bits. So when learned, they will behave exactly as you've experienced since the remote knows nothing about how a learned protocol actually works. You must use built in codes to get the correct behavior. I'm very surprised URC is lacking them. Have you tried other MCE (RC6) codes? Perhaps another set is more complete than the one you're using.

Another option would be to get a non-MCE dongle like the Diamond RC118N, which uses NEC1 protocol that doesn't toggle. Then all your learns will work fine. Same goes for Ortek/Adesso, but some functions behave a little differently than their MCE counterparts. Diamond will behave exactly the same as MCE (minus the toggle).
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post #288 of 303 Old 12-05-2014, 09:31 AM
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Dual-function buttons are the hardest to learn; lots of trial and error. I've even used a (different) learning remote as a go-between to teach a learning remote that has trouble with certain frequencies/codes/etc.
They're not dual function buttons so I don't know why they would be hard to learn. At least, what I'm thinking of when I think dual function.

Anyhow... I used your suggestion to learn from a different remote, in this case a Harmony 650, and that worked just fine. I think I'm good, as long as I don't lose the Harmony and need to reprogram the R40.

Last edited by Andrew67; 12-05-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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post #289 of 303 Old 12-05-2014, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mdavej View Post
MCE protocol used by WMC has toggle bits. So when learned, they will behave exactly as you've experienced since the remote knows nothing about how a learned protocol actually works. You must use built in codes to get the correct behavior. I'm very surprised URC is lacking them. Have you tried other MCE (RC6) codes? Perhaps another set is more complete than the one you're using.
I'll keep all that in mind but will have to research toggle bits as I don't know about that. I was able to learn from a Harmony 650 and that appears to have cleared my hurdle.

I did try all of the R40's codes for MCE. Some of them had working SKIP's and some had working FF/RWD but none of them had both. Thought that was strange. They are four separate buttons so why not at have at least one profile that includes both? I'm sure there's a reason.
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post #290 of 303 Old 12-07-2014, 01:52 PM
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B&H has these for $65 shipped right now. Are these refurb units? The site doesn't say, never dealt with B&H. Lowest price I can find aside from them is $95 on eBay which says its new. Thanks!
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post #291 of 303 Old 12-10-2014, 05:52 PM
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B&H has these for $65 shipped right now. Are these refurb units? The site doesn't say, never dealt with B&H. Lowest price I can find aside from them is $95 on eBay which says its new. Thanks!
That's where I purchased mine for $10 more. Brand new, unopened, not refurbished. B&H is fantastic.
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post #292 of 303 Old 12-21-2014, 10:46 PM
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Smile Here's a Start at an R40 Programming Manual

I found the comments in this forum helpful when programming my URC R40. I hope this helps someone else trying to make this gadget work for his/her family.

The URC R40 will work, and you can eventually program it so your family can use your AV System with very little learning.

MISSING Programming Functions
Its easier to program this remote if you know what functions are missing.

Missing Devices -- It's quite possible, even likely, that a very old or very new device will be unrecognized by the remote Quick function. If you cannot find a matching device, you may have to program or "Learn" every physical button on the device. Sometimes this includes the number keys and navigation and select buttons, although these are usually fairly standard.

Missing Device Commands -- In most cases I found that several important commands were missing from my Quick Setup device definitions. Don't expect them all to be there, because they either just weren't programmed, or you actually picked the wrong device even after trying half a dozen partial matches.

Buttons -- You cannot delete a button or relocate a button outside of the current device. The only obvious way to add a button is to define a device. Then you get buttons you can re-Label and redefine. You cannot add buttons to the Main Menu level, only Devices. So any Main Menu level Buttons definitions have to be a on physical device button or perhaps on a fake virtual "system" device you create based on some device you repurpose and rename. There is no way to read back a button learned program function. Worse, there is no way to assign an IR code to a button manually. You have to have a remote that sends the IR device to Learn it on this remote.

Macros -- you cannot copy Macros to a new Button. However, you can refer to a created Macro in another button, so this isn't much of a problem.

Favorites -- You cannot copy and paste favorites from the Main device Main Menu level to say, your cable device. I think you may be able to copy the Favorites from a device to Main. My best idea of a workaround here is to copy the Channel, Navigation and Favorites group from your Cable Device to Main. You can delete all Favorites, so I guess I could delete them all and start over. Maybe try one first.

Power Toggle -- There is no way to "remember" whether a device is powered On or Off. If you don't have a device that has "Power On" and "Power Off" IR commands, you must either order one just to use to Learn an explicit Power On and Power Off commands, or you must give up on writing a Macro to both Power On and Play a Device. This means you cannot do the obvious thing, which is to create a button to Play TV, one to Play Bluray, one to Play FM, one to Play Roku and so on. Also, if you don't have an explicit Power On and Power Off command for every device, the System and Power buttons cannot be reliably programmed. Sometimes they turn some of the devices on, sometimes off. Not having explicit commands for Power and Input will force you to create a URC R40 button design which still requires considerable knowledge component, albeit all on one remote device.

Input Toggle -- If you don't have a way to select an explicit Input via IR command, you will not be able to create a Macro to turn on a particular device, without manually selecting the correct Input, which exposes how units are wired up and Inputs are assigned to components.

Roku 2 and 3 and Sony Touch Control -- You cannot Learn commands because these devices use Bluetooth not IR. You can, however order a Roku remote for about $20 that uses IR commands, and use it to Learn buttons.

Copy -- You cannot copy a Device you laboriously teach commands to a new device. However, you can use commands from another Device in a Macro as a workaround. Still, you have to define the Macros one by one.

Redefine Button -- There is no such command. You need to Erase any Macro and Learned programming, then start over.

Relocate Button to New Device -- Not possible. You can only swap button locations within a device. However, you can use a Macro to refer to a button in another Device as a way to "relocate" the button. It's often easier just to Learn the command in the new Device button.

Device Number -- You can read the device number after it is defined but there is no way to look up the Device number on the Internet, or to add a set of new Device commands from the Internet.

Hints About Working Function
-You can redefine the function of any physical button using the Learn function. The only buttons (I think) you cannot program are the LED buttons to the side and below the LED. This was not clear in the manual. This is probably best done after defining the Device, as that function will set them.
-When Labeling a button, use the navigation keys to delete all (Up), delete character (Down), Move Left or Right rather than the buttons on the sides of the LED Window.
-It is much faster to Label all the buttons before you Learn them, because otherwise you'll have to go up and down the remote menus many more times.
-Be very careful to go all the way back to the Advanced Menu level when working on Macros, Erasing things, and so on. It is very easy to even Erase a Device, thinking you are simply Learning a new button in it.
-You have to Save Macros once in a while rather than continuing to edit them. This may only be after adding a new command, but I never figured it out. It just gets stuck and that is the only way to proceed sometimes.
-I did not find the Test Function to be very useful. I'm not sure it replicates the actual Macro function completely.
-Use Delay .5 s between most Macro functions at the beginning or commands will not complete properly or may be skipped. You can start removing delays later to speed things up.
-When you write a macro the last command should be a GoTo command. Make sure to program it to go back to the exact page (PG1,PG2 etc)where the original command is, because the default is to go back to page 1 (PG1). If this is a macro command located on PG2, to be repeated while watching the TV, and the last entry in the macro is GO TO PG1 (the default), you'll suddenly find yourself executing a different command than you started with. To go to a different page, delete the GOTO PG1 default and replace it by hitting GOTO and paging to the correct page, when Done and Save. The macro will now end with GOTO PG2, not PG1.
-You don't have to go back to the same Device you started in a Macro. Going to a new Device is very useful for getting to the Device menu from a virtual "system" Device menu.
-Don't program a button with both Learned and Macro (L and M) functions. I never figured out what that really does.
-The "P" function of a button is from the Quick Device definition. It is overridden by Learned ("L") or Macro "M" command definitions.
-The Copy All function does a good job of Making Audio and Channel functions consistent. But make sure you don't overwrite a Device that uses different codes.
-Use HDMI Cconsumer Electronics Control (CEC) commands through HDMI cables to turn on and off all Devices, not the System or Power buttons. Often, you can just turn off the HD TV and it will shut or start up most everything else down easily saving lots of headaches. You will need to create explict Power Toggle or On Off buttons somewhere though.
Some useful functions can only be arrived at using Quick Settings and saying No to new Device creation. This is far from obvious.
-Erase always seems to allow individual button function, except for Device level, which erases the whole Device. Note that buttons are never erased, only programming on buttons.
-When you put in a new battery, SKIP the initial device setup. I've no idea what it does and was terrified it would erase ALL programming.
-The System Button is programmed by adding Devices to it using the Quick Menu and saying No a few times. However, if the IR command for the device is actually a power Toggle, this function is unreliable.
- After programming and Saving, the Main Menu button and Exit button will take you straight back to normal remote functioning without going back up all the menus. You can get really lost otherwise.
- Define the Devices with at least Power Toggle, and Next Input, and Play buttons before doing any complex Macro programming. You'll likely need to refer to them.
- A remote IR Repeater like the BAFX Products IR Repeater - Remote control extender Kit works great for sending IR signals around corners or walls. Of course you may prefer one that uses CAT5 cable, and those exist too.

Expectations
Don't expect this remote to produce single Play functions for all your media components. There is a good chance you will need explicit Power Toggle, and Next Input buttons both at a top virtual device "system" level menu, and within each defined Device.

Once you set up this remote for a Device, you need to actually use it during a program to make sure every function you need is there and works from any starting situation. One or two videos are enough to prove that it works. After that, you can teach your spouse and children how to use this Remote, but not before.

Your family probably will still need to understand which HD TV Input and AV Receiver Input setting combinations correspond to which component selections, unless you are lucky enough to have an explicit Input Number IR command for both HD TV and AV Receiver.

What Programming Model Is It?
Read this when you start asking yourself, "Where AM I in all these prompts"?

This remote is programmed by a fixed, tree structure of prompt and select commands with 3-4 (or more) levels for each programming function except Macro definition. Programming looks the same at the lower levels, but the meaning of selecting a Device, for instance, is TOTALLY controlled by the top prompt levels shown in the LED window top.
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post #293 of 303 Old 12-24-2014, 08:00 PM
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I have a problem that I cannot seem to get rid of. When I try to use the wheel to move the focus around on my XBOX One, it frequently doubles the command. I push "up" once and the XBOX moves two spaces. It affects all of the directional pointers. It seems to happen about 50% of the time. Any suggestions how to resolve it?
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post #294 of 303 Old 12-25-2014, 08:38 AM
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I have a problem that I cannot seem to get rid of. When I try to use the wheel to move the focus around on my XBOX One, it frequently doubles the command. I push "up" once and the XBOX moves two spaces. It affects all of the directional pointers. It seems to happen about 50% of the time. Any suggestions how to resolve it?
Nevermind. I actually found how to fix in a different thread for a different remote. I tried learning them again and was careful not to push it twice on the learning source during the learn phase. It is good now.
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post #295 of 303 Old 01-12-2015, 07:00 PM
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Can't figure out how to program some of the buttons

I recently purchased one of the R40 remotes and I'm having trouble getting my RCA DRC-6300-N working with the remote. I've had an SL9000 Home Theatre which I could get working with the VCR portion of the RCA DRC-6300-N but no success with the R40. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or not.

When I attempt to find the RCA DRC-6300-N as a Quick Set Up, I only find: Elan, JVC, LG, Mitsubishi, and Zenith. No matter what I do, I can't even get RCA as an option for the VCR. I can get RCA under the DVD category, but can't control by unit.

I have the VCR functional using the "inside the device" buttons on the screen. I would like to program the SEL and the corresponding 4 arrow buttons to control the VCR, i.e. play, fast forward, reverse, stop, and pause.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated even if I need to teach the R40 manually. That too hasn't worked for me either.
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post #296 of 303 Old 01-13-2015, 10:03 AM
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Addendum

The only things that I can get the SEL and 4 arrow buttons to do is to replicate the various Cable actions.
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post #297 of 303 Old 04-25-2015, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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How is everybody's R40 OLED Screen holding up?? The screen on my over 3-year-old R40 has been getting dimmer and dimmer as the months and years go by and has become so dim that it's now very difficult to see when reconfiguring the remote. It's virtually impossible to see during the daytime so i had to wait till night time and reconfigure it in a completely dark room, and even then it was difficult to see the screen. My friend's R40 has also dimmed over time, but not as much as mine has (He doesn't use his nearly as much as i do). The issue is also compounded by the screen slightly illuminating every time a key is pressed which is completely unnecessary as it adds daily and constant wear to the OLED pixels on that screen. I wish there was a setting to leave the screen completely off like you can with the buttons, but no.

I don't use the screen keys for any of my devices so it's not an issue in daily use, but this dim screen is a huge problem now when i try to reconfigure it when i re-arrange my A/V components in the man-room.

I have a bad feeling that the OLED screen on the R40 (and on the MX-780 which is the Pro version) does not have the longevity of an LCD screen (as used on the R50, MX-450, MX-890 etc), and eventually my R40 will be rendered useless if the screen gets any dimmer (which i presume it will). And the R40 is discontinued and they are no longer making any good learning remotes anymore.

On another note, i just picked up an MX-450 learning remote (pro version of the R50) to use from my desk (replacing an MX-500) and it's not bad, but is not nearly as configurable as the R40 and i don't like the location and feel of many of it's buttons. I do like that bigger brighter LCD screen though, but that's about it. It will do, but i much prefer the R40 as it feels perfect and does every single thing that i need it to do.

My dream remote however would be the MX-890 - the key layout is identical to the R40 and it has a LCD screen that's bigger than the R40's OLED screen but it requires their CCP software and a knowledgeable installer to program it - and it's expensive.


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post #298 of 303 Old 07-05-2015, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
How is everybody's R40 OLED Screen holding up?? The screen on my over 3-year-old R40 has been getting dimmer and dimmer as the months and years go by and has become so dim that it's now very difficult to see when reconfiguring the remote. It's virtually impossible to see during the daytime so i had to wait till night time and reconfigure it in a completely dark room, and even then it was difficult to see the screen. My friend's R40 has also dimmed over time, but not as much as mine has (He doesn't use his nearly as much as i do). The issue is also compounded by the screen slightly illuminating every time a key is pressed which is completely unnecessary as it adds daily and constant wear to the OLED pixels on that screen. I wish there was a setting to leave the screen completely off like you can with the buttons, but no.

I don't use the screen keys for any of my devices so it's not an issue in daily use, but this dim screen is a huge problem now when i try to reconfigure it when i re-arrange my A/V components in the man-room.

I have a bad feeling that the OLED screen on the R40 (and on the MX-780 which is the Pro version) does not have the longevity of an LCD screen (as used on the R50, MX-450, MX-890 etc), and eventually my R40 will be rendered useless if the screen gets any dimmer (which i presume it will). And the R40 is discontinued and they are no longer making any good learning remotes anymore.

On another note, i just picked up an MX-450 learning remote (pro version of the R50) to use from my desk (replacing an MX-500) and it's not bad, but is not nearly as configurable as the R40 and i don't like the location and feel of many of it's buttons. I do like that bigger brighter LCD screen though, but that's about it. It will do, but i much prefer the R40 as it feels perfect and does every single thing that i need it to do.

My dream remote however would be the MX-890 - the key layout is identical to the R40 and it has a LCD screen that's bigger than the R40's OLED screen but it requires their CCP software and a knowledgeable installer to program it - and it's expensive.


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I was just thinking the other day that my screen was getting dimmer. Thought it was just me. Even changed the batteries to see if it would help but it didn't. Mine is 3-4 years old. Like you I don't use the screen keys very often, but needed to change something the other day and had a hard time reading the screen.

I did not know they discontinued the remote. That's to bad. I love the layout and feel of the buttons on this remote. I have had the MX-700 and MX-900 and have had problems with the buttons wearing out on both of them within 4-5 years. I was looking at the MX-890 (for the key layout) but could no longer justify the higher price because of the problems I had with the other remotes. So I went for the R40. It has been and still is, except the the screen dimming, a great remote for the price. If I have to replace it I don't know what I would go with as I don't like any of the other current options out there.

I would probably look at the MX-890 again. Just for the key layout. There CCP software is very easy to use. I actually prefer it to the way the R40 is programed.
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post #299 of 303 Old 07-05-2015, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JSearfoss View Post
I was just thinking the other day that my screen was getting dimmer. Thought it was just me. Even changed the batteries to see if it would help but it didn't. Mine is 3-4 years old. Like you I don't use the screen keys very often, but needed to change something the other day and had a hard time reading the screen.
After i posted about the dimming screen thing a few months ago, i ended up upgrading to an MX-780 as a replacement for my R40 as it was a lot less money than the MX-890.



Quote:
I did not know they discontinued the (R40) remote. That's to bad. I love the layout and feel of the buttons on this remote....
There are still a few brand new R40's available (with the good 1.20 software) if you want to grab one (about $150 last time i checked).

The MX-780 has the same casing and button layout as the R40, but it has hard plastic buttons and they have a slightly slippery/clicky/creaky/squeaky feel to them and don't feel as comfy as the quiet soft gummy rubber buttons on the R40, so i much prefer the softer quieter feel on the R40. Something to consider if upgrading to the pro version. And there is that OLED screen dimming over time thing so another point against the MX-780.

There was a seller on Ebay last month that had two MX-780s (pro version of the R40) with dim screens for $29 (i bought one to experiment with and it's almost as dim as my R40). So your R40 is the 5th report of a dim OLED screen so that's further evidence that these URC OLED screens don't have the longevity of their LCD screens.


Quote:
I was looking at the MX-890 (for the key layout) but could no longer justify the higher price because of the problems I had with the other remotes. So I went for the R40. It has been and still is, except the the screen dimming, a great remote for the price. If I have to replace it I don't know what I would go with as I don't like any of the other current options out there. I would probably look at the MX-890 again. Just for the key layout. There CCP software is very easy to use. I actually prefer it to the way the R40 is programed.
I could not control myself so soon after buying the MX-780s, i also bought an MX-890 and i like it a lot more than the R40 and MX-780. The MX-890's buttons have a much better tactile feel than the MX-780; they're not as loud, not creaky or squeaky, and have a shorter "throw". I also like that it's a lot lighter and slimmer, is more balanced, and feels a lot better in the hand. The MX-890's screen is bigger and brighter too. And i don't think it will dim over time since it's LCD.

Knowing what i know now about the R40 vs MX-780 vs MX-890, if i had it to do all over again i would have skipped buying the MX-780s and went straight to the MX-890 for my man-room even at the higher price. The MX-780 has been relegated to the wife's den and is just fine in there




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Sony 55W800B, Panasonic TC-P55ST60, TiVo Series3 & Premiere, TWC Cisco 8742HDC DVR, Onkyo TX-SR333 AVR, URC MX-890, MX-780, R40, MX-450, MX-500 Remotes.
Pic of My A/V setup - http://cdn.avsforum.com/f/f1/900x900..._Img_4867.jpeg
Gallery - http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2082686/randywalter...

Last edited by RandyWalters; 07-05-2015 at 08:01 PM.
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post #300 of 303 Old 07-06-2015, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
So your R40 is the 5th report of a dim OLED screen
This one makes six.

I set the screen brightness at around 60% when I first got my new (direct from URC with new firmware) R40, but now it's at 100% and it difficult to see clearly in daylight.

My MX-500 remains in active duty. though the buttons are worn and some require a firmer press than others.
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