iTach IP to IR - Hardwired? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-09-2012, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a couple devices that I am wanting to control with an iTach IP2IR. I don't like the looks of having an IR emitter attached to the front of my devices and was curious if I could remove the IR receiver from the unit I'm controlling, connect it to a 1/8" jack in the back and connect the IP2IR directly using a 1/8" to 1/8" cable to connect the new jack on the equipment directly to the jack on the IP2IR?

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-09-2012, 06:19 PM
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That would be an odd way of doing it, especially since there are other options.

1. Crack open the emitter exposing just the led lamp that is super tiny, fish it through the back of your component and attach it near the IR receiver inside the cabinet.

2. Make sure the component you're trying to control doesn't already have a mini jack in the back for IR control.

3. Use the blaster that came with the IP2IR unit on port three and blast all of your components on a single wall.

4. Slide the components slightly rearward and attach the emitter to the supporting shelf below the component's IR receiver. (see pic.)

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-09-2012, 10:15 PM
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All devices must have serial or IP control for me now, no compromises.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-10-2012, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disker72 View Post

I have a couple devices that I am wanting to control with an iTach IP2IR. I don't like the looks of having an IR emitter attached to the front of my devices and was curious if I could remove the IR receiver from the unit I'm controlling, connect it to a 1/8" jack in the back and connect the IP2IR directly using a 1/8" to 1/8" cable to connect the new jack on the equipment directly to the jack on the IP2IR?

Yes you can do that as long as you do it properly. Instead of going from an electric signal to ir signal and back to an electric signal, you'll be bypassing the IR route. If you're opening up your device, I personally just find it easier to stick an ir emitter behind the front panel and out of site. Either way you'll have a wire coming out, but at least this way you aren't making a permanent alteration.
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-15-2012, 11:03 AM
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Finally,

If you have an IR jack on the back (and it's labeled as such) ensure it isn't just an OUTBOUND ir jack... For example the SA 8500HD cable box has just such a port however it's strictly for OUTBOUND IR for controlling a DVHS type box.

So sad.. Especially since every darn cable box Cablevision sends out ALL respond to the same IR codes and having direct connections would really help ensure IR from one box doesn't mess with another box located in the same rack.

Black tape does the trick but it's oh so ugly.
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-29-2012, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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The devices are Psyclone component/svideo (PSC01) and HDMI (PSC47) switchers that the same remote controls both - so I feel your pain on the Cablevision boxes!

I acutally forgot I had posted this because I didn't set it to e-mail me on replies! LOL!

I decided to go a slightly more elaborite method all around, but for the control portion it's easier. I did like the one suggestion of breaking the housing around the emitter and hot gluing it inside the case near the IR receiver. I drilled a hole in the back, put a rubber grommet in the hole and threaded the emitter through the hole, then zip-tied around the cable on the inside to keep it from pulling out.

The more elaborite part is I'm running other wires out to an Arduino to monitor the status of the devices to provide feedback to my iRule software. It will be able to provide descrete power on/off control as well as monitor which input the Psyclone devices are currently set at.

My goal, of course, is to be able to mount these in a rack inside of a closet and still know exactly what is going on with them without having to see the display panel.

I've got the PSC01 done and the software written for the Arduino. I plan on finishing the PSC47 this week, and by the weekend have the relay board for the descrete on/off completed.

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post #7 of 8 Old 05-04-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disker72 View Post

I decided to go a slightly more elaborite method all around, but for the control portion it's easier. I did like the one suggestion of breaking the housing around the emitter and hot gluing it inside the case near the IR receiver. I drilled a hole in the back, put a rubber grommet in the hole and threaded the emitter through the hole, then zip-tied around the cable on the inside to keep it from pulling out.

The more elaborite part is I'm running other wires out to an Arduino to monitor the status of the devices to provide feedback to my iRule software. It will be able to provide descrete power on/off control as well as monitor which input the Psyclone devices are currently set at.

My goal, of course, is to be able to mount these in a rack inside of a closet and still know exactly what is going on with them without having to see the display panel.

I've got the PSC01 done and the software written for the Arduino. I plan on finishing the PSC47 this week, and by the weekend have the relay board for the descrete on/off completed.

Very nice! Yea I've been lurking around some arduino forums for quite a while and I'm confidant I can get some cool things done with it... It's just a matter of committing the time to yet another geeky hobby...

And more accurately what my wife will think of my new time sink...
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-06-2012, 12:39 PM
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I have been trying to do something similar from an iTach to a Aton DLA4 and I have not succeeded. I am following the instructions here: http://atonhome.com/xTras/Downloads/...lustration.pdf
But it is not working for me.
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