Official URC Remote Thread for MX-780, MX-890, and MX-1200 - Page 8 - AVS Forum
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post #211 of 305 Old 08-07-2014, 11:18 AM
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Has anyone tried an MX900 for example, that you programmed on the old MX Editor and tried to load it into CCP to then download to a MX780? Would like to get another 780 and replace a 900 without all the reprogramming.
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post #212 of 305 Old 08-11-2014, 12:01 AM
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I want to buy an MX-890

Like the title says, I am after a MX-890. I tried Surf Remote but they don't ship outside the US and I am in Australia. I have trouble finding a dealer and a price.
This thread mentioned about $375 at Surf Remote and someone else mentioned $275, can't believe that.
Does any one knows a business that is willing to ship to Australia or is anyone of you good people willing to sent me one?
I will pay by Paypal if possible. I have 3 MX-900's at the moment but it is time I upgrade. I do have the CCP Software already.

Thanks in advance,
Dick
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post #213 of 305 Old 08-11-2014, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickwyn View Post
Like the title says, I am after a MX-890. I tried Surf Remote but they don't ship outside the US and I am in Australia. I have trouble finding a dealer and a price.
This thread mentioned about $375 at Surf Remote and someone else mentioned $275, can't believe that.
Does any one knows a business that is willing to ship to Australia or is anyone of you good people willing to sent me one?
I will pay by Paypal if possible. I have 3 MX-900's at the moment but it is time I upgrade. I do have the CCP Software already.

Thanks in advance,
Dick
Have you tried our sponsers at AVScience? I am not sure if they ship outside US either but might be worth a try. I got mine from this guy:

Mike Garrett, AV Science Sales Call Me: 585-671-2968
Email Me: Mike@AVScience.com
Brands we sell: http://avscience.com/brands/
Call for B-stock projectors
Stewart, Seymour, SE, SI & many more.Klipsch, RBH, Martin Logan, Triad, Atlantic Technology, MK Sound, BG Radia, SVS & Def Tech.
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post #214 of 305 Old 08-11-2014, 07:19 PM
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Mx-890

Thanks very much for the info, I emailed Mike. Now wait and see....


Dick
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post #215 of 305 Old 08-22-2014, 09:45 PM
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Mx-890

Heard back from Mike, $430 incl postage. A bit to much for me at the moment.
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post #216 of 305 Old 09-01-2014, 05:05 PM
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MX-780 is pretty robust

I'm late to the party, but I found this thread while searching for something else. I've skimmed the thread and thought I'd chime in with some things that seem like they either haven't been covered (or have been inadequately covered).

First, a little background. I'm a URC dealer in Southern Arizona. I live in an area that is overwhelmingly populated by senior citizens. That's a good target audience - they need something really simple. However, seniors tend to be pretty tight; they have a finite amount of income and need to make it last. Even ( ~ especially! ~ ) the ones who are well off tend to be pretty tight, so a $500 remote is a pretty tough sell. It has to really knock their socks off. As a result, I've become extremely skilled at programming the MX-780. I've gotten very creative with this "budget" remote and taken it places URC probably never intended.

As an example, I have one customer who uses a single MX-780 (plus an MRF-260) to control a bedroom system (TV, Sat Receiver, Blu-ray, sound bar), a home theater system in his living room, plus an outdoor (patio) zone. He just carries the remote from room to room. On his MAIN screen, he chooses Living Room, Patio or Bedroom. The Bedroom screen gives him 6 activities to choose from. In the living room, he has too many activities for one screen, so first he chooses from TV, Movies or Music. On the patio, he only listens to Pandora, so choosing Patio runs the Patio Music macro and dumps him off with a menu of Pandora stations.

The first thing that makes all that possible is custom graphics. The 780 is far more capable in this regard than most people realize. Any 64x33pixel .PNG that you save into ProgramFiles\URC\MX780\Icons (you can even organize your icon images into subfolders such as Favorite Channels, Help screens, etc. Taking that a step further, you can create 128x99 pixel images (to fill the entire screen) with text that you could never do using the standard button text -- including (if you want to get really fancy) images or background images. Then simply crop the "master" images into six 64x33 pixel "slices". When you drag the individual slices onto the screen in CCP, the end result is one, cool, seamless image. (See attached examples.) The common wisdom is that the MX-780 doesn't have enough storage to get too fancy with graphics, but I've never even come close to running out of room.

While it may not have If/Then/Else macros, the MX-780 does have conditional/variable (true/false) macros that can pretty much do the same things. Just set the variable (e.g. BDP_ON) then change the macro type to "Variable" and choose which variable to use for the test case. CCP gives you two tabs - one if the test case evaluates to TRUE, the other for FALSE. This is perfect for when discreet (i.e. Power ON/OFF) codes aren't available and you have to resort to workaround such as open tray, wait 5 seconds, close tray, set BDP_ON=TRUE.
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post #217 of 305 Old 09-01-2014, 05:33 PM
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One thing I don't like about that remote which is the same annoyance that the MX450 has, the concentric doughnut with the four buttons circling outside of it. It's way too easy to hit the wrong 'ring' of buttons.
If they would of staggered the outer ring with shorter buttons and get rid of the doughnut substituting the same 'short' buttons, there would be less of a problem.

http://www.universalremote.com/produ...faces&p=MX-780

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

.
.
Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.
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post #218 of 305 Old 09-02-2014, 12:43 AM
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MX-780 Programming Best Practices (Part 1)

Here are the things I do when programming an MX-780. All of this is geared toward presenting the user with a "one button simple" user experience while also making it as easy on me (including considerations for future support) as possible. Some of this may not be useful for you; take whatever you can use. And feel free to ask for clarification on any of the CCP terminology.


BASIC SETUP

  1. I start by naming the two main screens "Activities" and "Devices". I create a second page under each (Activities and Devices) then hide both pages under Devices. (My customers get confused when they hit the "MAIN" button a second time and are presented with the Devices screen. This way, when they hit the "MAIN" button, they get the Main (Activities) Menu - every time.)
  2. Under Activities, I create a device called "blank". Then I right click the button (in the Activities Screen) and choose Cut. When it asks if I also want to delete the device, I say NO. This leaves me with a blank device that's not connected to any button. I prefer to start/work with these blank/empty "devices" as the basis for all my Activities. When I'm ready to connect a button to one of them, I just click the button and create a jump.
  3. Under Activities, I copy and paste my blank device 3 times and name the copies "POWER", “MACROS” and “HELP”. (Again, I right click each of the buttons in the Simulator window that were automatically created and I cut – not delete – each of them.)
  4. All of the above I have saved as my MX-780 template.
  5. Under Devices, Page 1, I insert a device for each component in the system, giving each one a detailed name - “TV-Vizio_E700i-B3”, “Blu-ray-Sony_BDP-S3200”, etc. I don't bother with graphics. The user will never see these – they're there just for me.
  6. In Activities, Page 2, I create a button named “DEVICES”. It jumps to a hidden page under Activities which has one button (with graphics) per component, with user friendly names - “Vizio TV”, “Sony Blu-ray”, etc. I assign jumps to each component in Devices.
  7. Also in Activities, Page 2, I create a temporary button to jump to Macros (just for testing - it gets deleted before I'm done).
  8. I create a 'device' under Activities for each activity that I plan to set up. Theoretically, you could end each activity macro with a jump to the main device to be controlled (typically the source component) then use punch-through for volume, etc. The reason I don't do that is because there's usually 1 or 2 buttons that are needed for controlling other devices. For example, for a “Watch Blu-ray” macro, you could end the activity macro with a jump to the BDP, but then it's non-simple for the user if they need to change the aspect ratio (wide/zoom mode) of the TV for that particular movie. They might also like to have a button for changing the sound mode on the AVR. By ending the activity macro with a jump to a dedicated Activity 'device', I can have buttons for multiple devices on one screen. Another example is for (most) music activities... I like to include a TV power (toggle) button so they can turn off the TV (which isn't explicitly required) when listening to music.
  9. For each component in Devices, I add as many pages as I think I'll need - plus one more (which gets hidden). On that page, I place discrete power buttons (if I have them for that device) as well as the URC category and code for that particular component. (This saves me time searching through the Brand and Model later on when I'm programming.)
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Last edited by Donny Bahama; 09-15-2014 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Corrected some minor errors
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post #219 of 305 Old 09-02-2014, 02:34 AM
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MX-780 Programming Best Practices (Part 2)

MACROS

Before I get started on macros, allow me a brief discussion on macro reliability... For the most reliable macros, I want to use discrete codes wherever they're available. For anyone who hasn't dealt much with discrete codes and discrete workarounds, if I have discrete on and off codes, then I can send the ON command as many times as I want and the component will never turn off. Likewise, multiple OFF commands will never turn it on. That's a very significant difference compared to the Power button on the remote that simply toggles the power every time you press it! Whenever I have discrete codes available (whether for power, input or whatever), I generally send them 3 times with a .2 second delay in between. That way I can have a high degree of confidence that the command was received and acted upon – and that the macro will be highly reliable and repeatable.

But for devices that don't have discrete power codes, I need to find a suitable workaround. For example: most Blu-ray players don't have discrete power codes. But you can usually turn them ON by hitting Eject or Home/Menu/Smart Hub, etc. If you can do that, then you have the equivalent of a discrete ON code. Next you have to determine what needs to happen next and what delay (if any) needs to be inserted into the macro before the macro can resume.

The activity matters, here - if it's “Watch a DVD”, I can insert a jump to the (hidden) “Insert Disc Then Press Here” page immediately after ejecting the tray. But if it's “Watch Netflix”, I'll usually get an error if I don't retract the tray before sending the Netflix command – so I need to know how long I have to wait (after opening the tray while the BDP was off) before I can consistently, reliably send the “close tray” command. I usually do about 10 timings (with a stopwatch) and pick the longest one.

Let's say we're working with a newer Sony BDP. I can hit “HOME” to turn it on, and in 5 seconds or less I'm ready to navigate the crossbar menu or send a discrete Netflix command. So effectively, Home + 5 second delay = discrete ON. (Of course, I also set the variable “BDP_ON” to True.) Discrete OFF, then, is (call the) Discrete ON macro + Power button (and set “BDP_ON” to False).

These workarounds beat the heck out of nothing, but when you're dealing with an old Samsung BDP that needs 30 seconds (before the macro can move on) after ejecting the tray, it can really slow things down for the user. So, any time I use “discrete workarounds”, I always have 4 power macros for that device- two (that are discrete workarounds) labeled (e.g.) “BDP D-On” and “BDP D-Off”. Yes, even though they're not truly discrete power codes, I still use “D-” to designate them as such because theoretically they should behave like discrete power codes (albeit with an inherent delay). The two other macros I label “BDP V-On” and “BDP V-Off”. For these macros, I simply trust/hope that the status of the “BDP_ON” variable is correct and I either send a power command or do nothing (updating the variable status as necessary) – no delays added. For activity macros, I'll usually run the “V-” macros. But if I'm shutting the system off, I'll use “BDP D-Off” because I want to be as sure as possible in that scenario. (The System OFF macro can and should be a reliable means for resetting the whole system in case an Activity macro fails more than once.)

Finally, we have the worst case scenario: no discrete power commands and no available workarounds. One way of dealing with this (as with the new Cox Contour boxes) is to just leave it on all the time. Otherwise, you just have to get creative. A good example is sound bars. Many of my customers prefer these to the complexity of a full surround sound system, but most sound bars only offer power toggle. So ALL I can do in my macros is send a power toggle command (maybe tweak the repeat value), update the variable status and hope I got it right. But just in case I didn't, I can set the green button (upper left corner) – which I never use otherwise – in every single device/page/panel to send a sound bar power toggle. Then I explain the whole thing to the customer including why this is necessary. (So far this has worked very well.)

One last word about discrete workarounds that incorporate delays... You can (and should) insert a “Please Wait” screen at the beginning of such macros. (The Please Wait screen is in the jump dialog.) It's important, though, that at the end of the macro, you insert a jump to some device/page. If you don't, the Please Wait screen never goes away and you'll have to reset the remote by pulling one of the batteries out.
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post #220 of 305 Old 09-02-2014, 03:25 AM
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MX-780 Programming Best Practices (Part 3)

Getting the macros (really) right is 80% of the battle when programming an MX-780. From there it's mostly jumps and aliases and pretty icons. Before I deal with any of that, I make sure my macros are solid – and for that I add a temporary “Macros” button on Page 2 of Activities that jumps to Page 1 of Macros. I test and retest – does it work properly when the whole system is off? Does it work properly when we're changing from another activity? Test, make a note of any problems, fix the problems, save, upload to the remote, retest. Repeat until no more problems are found.

It's important to note that macros should consist mostly of aliases (with jumps, delays, and 'setvars' as necessary). Never drag/paste actual remote codes from the IR Database Navigator into your macros - it can corrupt your whole CCP file. (I found this out the hard way.)

In my Macros 'device' under Activities, I have four types of macros: System, Power, Activity, and Misc/Other. The Power macros are described in my previous post so I'll move on to System then Activity.

I only use one System macro – System Off – because System On is implicit in every Activity macro. As I mentioned previously, my System Off macro sends all discrete OFF commands three times with a .2 second delay in between to insure reliability. Discrete workarounds are only sent once. At the end of the System Off macro, I insert a jump to the Main Menu screen (Activities, Page 1).

Because “System On” is incorporated into every Activity macro, I again send discrete ON commands three times with a .2 second delay between each. I do the same with discrete inputs on both the TV and the receiver.

Sometimes you're forced to navigate away from the Activity 'device' (i.e. to control some component). In doing so, you need a way to get back to the Activity device page without rerunning the Activity macro. I used to incorporate a “Jump” button on Activities, Page 2, which then jumped me to a “Jump” device page with buttons for each activity – but my customer base could NOT wrap their heads around this. So I implemented Activity variables instead. So, if I've navigated away from the Netflix Activity page, when I'm done, I can go to the Main Menu and press Netflix. The 'Watch Netflix' Activity macro evaluates the “NetFlix” Activity variable, sees that it's true, and the True tab has only one command: jump to Netflix (Activity), Page 1. The False tab has the full macro- Turn on the necessary components, turn off the unnecessary components, select the right inputs, select the appropriate surround (audio) mode, navigate any menus as necessary, press Select, bring the Guide up, etc. THEN set the current Activity var to TRUE and all other Activity vars to False. I think there's been some discussion in this thread about using “Back” buttons, but I think Activity vars is a much better solution because A. Sometimes you need to navigate away to control more than one component, B. Back buttons take up a spot – and you only have 6 to work with, and C. navigating back to the Main Menu is just more intuitive. It feels like the right thing to do, so why not make it the right thing to do?

Misc/Other macros include things like the “Play DVD” and “Play CD” macros that run when you “Insert Disc Then Press Here”. They simply send the DVD/BDP “Play” command three times then jump to the appropriate Activity page.

I used to put Favorite Channel macros in the Macros device, then call them from the Favorite Channels Activity 'device' but at some point I realized that there didn't seem to be any benefit to doing that as opposed to just attaching the macros to the buttons in the
Favorite Channels Activity 'device' pages.
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post #221 of 305 Old 09-02-2014, 10:06 AM
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MX-780 Programming Best Practices (Part 4)

A Few Final Tips/Tricks

System Off
I assign the System Off macro to the red button (top right) in every device/panel - including the Activities panel and even individual components in the DEVICES (Main 2) section. Note that the easiest way to do this is to "record" an alias for the System Off macro on one device, then, in the Macro panel, right click and copy the alias, then paste it into the macro panel for the red button in all other devices.

Power Menu for Individual Components
Depending on the user, (i.e. if they're savvy enough,) I sometimes assign the green/System ON button as a jump to the POWER 'device' - this gives them the capability of going in and turning individual devices on or off (in case a macro misfires). I use this on my own remote and it's very handy (although my macros almost never misfire).

Volume Punch-through
I make sure I set the volume punch-through for the Activities (Main) menu/panel and most (if not all) components in the DEVICES (Main 2) section. That way, no matter what screen/panel you're on, if the phone rings and you need to quickly hit "Mute", you don't have to navigate to some other panel first.
If I do Favorite Channels, I create a "Favorite Channels" device under Activities and assign aliases for the numeric/Enter keys from the cable box/satellite receiver. Makes it much quicker to do the Fav macros when you don't need to switch devices.

Also on Fav macros, I always start with a Return/Escape/Exit key - in case the user has the Guide up when they initiate a Fav macro. At the end of the Fav macro, I jump the user back to "Watch TV", Page 1.

Do NOT paste IR commands into macros
This one is pretty critical - macros should consist primarily of jumps and aliases (and delays where necessary). Aliases take the place of IR commands. While it seems like you should be able to copy and paste actual IR commands (e.g. TV.667.POWER ON) into the macros (and one might even assume this would be more robust/reliable) - this is a big no-no. In a worst-case scenario, this can corrupt the entire CCP file and you'll have to start over. I speak from experience, here - do not paste IR commands into macros.


Cut, copy and paste are BIG time-savers.
As I mentioned previously, when I'm creating power, system and activity macros, I like to send discrete codes 3 times each, with a .2 second delay between them. To do this, I start by clicking the red/record button in the Macro section, then I navigate to the desired device and click the desired button 3 times. I do this for all the discrete power commands turning all necessary components on and all unnecessary components off for this activity. After inserting the .2 second delay between the first 2 power commands (by clicking on the second one, then clicking the delay button), I then select the newly inserted delay, copy it, and paste it anywhere else I need it. Much, much faster than inserting individual delays via the delay dialog over and over and over.

Likewise, there's little or no difference between a "Play DVD" macro and a "Play CD" macro. Assuming the Blu-ray player is used for both, the only difference is the sound mode and the jump at the end. So it's a lot easier to create the first macro, copy it, paste it into the other macro and make a couple of minor changes. To copy multiple rows of a macro (this also works with devices and/or their pages in the Model Designer section), just click the first one, hold down shift and press the down arrow (on your keyboard) multiple times.

Remember, too, that if you want devices that aren't linked to buttons (or buttons that aren't linked to devices), just right click and choose CUT. Then say NO when asked to delete the linked device/button.

Still another big time saver thanks to copy and paste is when creating Activity 'devices'... Typically, the main controls needed for each activity are the controls for the source device - but you main want (as I mentioned previously) controls for the TV's wide/zoom mode, or the receiver's audio/surround mode, etc. To make it easier to populate these Activity 'devices', just go to the source device (in the DEVICES/Main 2 section) and copy the necessary pages under the device. Paste them into the Activity device and make whatever minor changes you need.

Devices not in the URC code database
If you're working with a device that's not found in the URC code database, you basically have two options - 1) find a code that works or 2) learn your existing remote one button at a time. I'll skip the learning functionality which is well documented (Help > Tech Guides).
To find a code that works, the first thing to try is the code for last year's model of the product. If you can find that model in the database, use it and copy over a few of the most-used commands (power, input, D-pad, menu) then upload to the remote and test. If it works, you're golden -- unless that device code doesn't have discrete power codes. In that case (or if those test codes didn't work at all), the next thing to try is this:
  1. Create a "Test" device called "[Brand] Test" (for the following steps, I'll use "Samsung" as an example.
  2. Add 6 or 7 pages then select page 1.
  3. In the IR Database Navigator, choose the type of device (TV, Audio, Cable, Sat, etc.) then select the brand.
  4. Click the Model dropdown and scroll to the very bottom. There you'll see
    [SAMSUNG 1], [SAMSUNG 2], [SAMSUNG 3], etc. Each of these will have a different Code#. When I say "Code#", I'm referring to the 3 or 4 digit code at the top right of the IR Database Navigator section.
  5. Starting with the highest number (the one at the very bottom of the list - e.g. "[SAMSUNG 26]" - which should be the IR codes for the latest models), look for "POWER ON" and "POWER OFF" (you may also see "P-ON"/"P-OFF" or simply "ON"/"OFF")
  6. Drag them to (screen) buttons in the simulator section and rename them to "[Code#]-ON" and "[Code#]-OFF".
  7. Repeat steps 4-6, working your way up to "[SAMSUNG 1]"
  8. Now your "Samsung Test" device has all available discrete power codes. Upload to the remote and go test. Remember, you're testing discrete codes, so you should be able to press ON codes multiple times and the device should never turn off, and vice versa.
  9. As you're testing, make a note of the codes that work.
  10. Using the highest Code# that worked, copy over a few of the most-used commands (power, input, D-pad, menu) for that Code# to the device (in the DEVICES panel). Upload to the remote and go test. If they work, great - now you have your Code#. If not, repeat with the next highest Code# that worked - and so on.
NOTE to those of you who aren't just doing this for yourself: You may want to create a "DiscreteCodeFinder.CCP" file that you can upload to the remote as needed - create separate devices for each major brand of TV, Receiver, Blu-ray player, Cable Box, Satellite receiver, etc. I have an old MX-900 that I use for this and it's an indispensable tool and a big time saver. This comes in especially handy in situations where the device is manufactured by a company other than the brand. Vizio TVs are a perfect example. If you look at Vizio TVs in the IR Database Navigator, you'll currently find only 2 Code#s with discrete power codes - and these may or may not work for the Vizio TV you're working with. But if you go to the LG TV panel and try those codes, you may very well find one that works - because LG manufactures a lot of Vizio TVs.

Added 9/16/14
It's a good idea to try to anticipate problems and take steps accordingly to make your life easier later. As an example, if all sources are routed to the receiver with just a single HDMI output to the TV, then select the TV input in a TV ON macro. Call the TV ON macro from any activity macro that needs to turn the TV on (most of them) then, if you end up using a different input later, for whatever reason, you'll only have to change it in one place instead of editing every single macro where you turn the TV on then select the TV input.
Another good example is my "Power Panel" macro where the green button always takes the user to a page in the 'POWER' device where there's a
power toggle button for each component in the system. Rather than go to each component and program a jump to that page, I create a "Power Panel" macro (use macro Record for the first one, then copy it) and paste it into all the other devices. Again, if the page changes during the course of my programming, I only have to change it in one place - the Power Panel macro.


I'll add to this as I think of other stuff.
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Last edited by Donny Bahama; 09-16-2014 at 10:05 PM. Reason: Added more info
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post #222 of 305 Old 09-02-2014, 07:34 PM
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@Donny Great Stuff! I have acquired a system consisting of a MX-890, MX-780, MRX-2, and RFX-250. Your articles above have been some interesting reading, especially as the MX-780 will be for the wife to use in an upstairs system and it will need to be as easy as possible for her to use. I will starting my programming efforts in the next week or two (still finalizing equipment installs).


First I was wondering if you would be willing to share your MX-780 template you mentioned in the first part of your series? Also if you have a MX-890 template you can share that would also be great


What I am attempting to put together is an AV system for a recently added "pool house." It is on two floors with my media room downstairs and wife's space upstairs. There is a separate room that will house all of the various AV components listed below.


Upstairs there is 5.1 speakers, and a LG 50PN6500 TV.


Downstairs for a display is a JVC RS57 projector and screen, and 7.1 setup of Triad speakers.


The equipment in the equipment room consists of:
  • Denon 4520-CI AVR powering the downstairs 7 channels in main zone plus 2 channels in zone 2 on the porch/patio. Porch/patio will eventually get a TV also.
  • Antique Marantz SR-8000 AVR powering upstairs speakers (but not opposed to getting a current Denon X1000 AVR instead)
  • Triad DSP 600 RackAmp (for the Platinum Sub)
  • Apple TV
  • Dune Base 3D media player
  • Dune D1 media player
  • OPPO BD-103
  • ROKU stick for the OPPO
  • DirecTV HR21
  • Lumagen 2041 video processor (for the JVC)
Wife and I will be sharing sources - she will mostly watch DirecTV, Apple TV, and Amazon Prime Instant Video on the ROKU - looking at running her upstairs space from zone 4 on the Denon with a device splitting audio out of the HDMI connection to upstairs and putting it through coax in on the Marantz. This works (kind of).


Some questions I have are:
  1. Where to begin on devices that are not in the CCP databases (such as the LG TV, Denon 4520-CI, and both Dune boxes)?
  2. Is there a way to remember variables (such as power states) across both remotes?
  3. Is there a way to use serial control with such a setup or am I stuck with IR only?
  4. Given the above any recommendations on how to hook up - I am thinking OPPO, DirecTV, and Dune Base 3D will run through the Lumagen first as those will be mostly what will be watched on projector.
  5. Any other thoughts or advice specific to my setup?
Sorry for the rambling - I obviously don't know for sure how to use all this stuff now that I have it! But am willing to learn.


Thanks in advance
Bill
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post #223 of 305 Old 09-03-2014, 02:05 AM
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I'm glad you found it helpful, Bill. That's a sweet equipment list you've got, there!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoering View Post
First I was wondering if you would be willing to share your MX-780 template you mentioned in the first part of your series? Also if you have a MX-890 template you can share that would also be great
I think you'll find it's hardly shareworthy but I've attached it anyway. I don't have an 890 template but when you see what's in the 780 template, you'll see how easy it'd be to create something similar for the 890. (What would probably help you more is a complete CCP file. I'll try to post a complete one soon.)

It's getting pretty late here but I'll get back to you on your questions as soon as I can.
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post #224 of 305 Old 09-04-2014, 05:19 AM
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Thanks very much Donny, this is a tremendous help to me.
Several tricks of the trade like hiding the Main2 pages are SOOOO useful!
Thanks again

Dick
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post #225 of 305 Old 09-04-2014, 04:54 PM
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I've edited my "Part 4" post, adding quite a bit of info.
videobruce and dickwyn like this.
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post #226 of 305 Old 09-04-2014, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny Bahama View Post
I've edited my "Part 4" post, adding quite a bit of info.
I wanted to say thanks again Donny, a lot of great stuff - so far I am just using a IR relay thing I got at Radio Shack probably 10 years ago or more along with a TALL stack of original remotes and enjoying the system. I plan to take a couple vacation days soon and buckle down with CCP to see how far I can get.


Bill
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post #227 of 305 Old 09-05-2014, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoering View Post
Some questions I have are:
  1. Where to begin on devices that are not in the CCP databases (such as the LG TV, Denon 4520-CI, and both Dune boxes)?
  2. Is there a way to remember variables (such as power states) across both remotes?
  3. Is there a way to use serial control with such a setup or am I stuck with IR only?
  4. Given the above any recommendations on how to hook up - I am thinking OPPO, DirecTV, and Dune Base 3D will run through the Lumagen first as those will be mostly what will be watched on projector.
  5. Any other thoughts or advice specific to my setup?
  1. I've addressed this in the new additions to my "Part 4" post above.
  2. No, but there is a simple workaround - duplicate any source components needed in both systems and keep the 2 systems completely separate.
  3. I'm fairly certain that the MX-780/890 both support serial but I have no experience with that, personally. If you go (in CCP) to Help > Tech Guides, there's one of them out there called "CCP Advanced Programming (MRX-1, IP, RS232 and Two Way)", It's quite old - May, 2010, so it predates the existence of the MX-780/890 but I'm pretty sure it will get you where you're trying to go.
  4. Sounds right to me but I haven't spent much time with Lumagen processors. Hopefully they have discrete input commands? You're definitely going to want that for your macros.
  5. About the only thing I'd suggest is a media server. I love mine. On-demand access to all your media without getting up to put a disc in -- that's the only way to fly!
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post #228 of 305 Old 09-05-2014, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoering View Post
I wanted to say thanks again Donny, a lot of great stuff - so far I am just using a IR relay thing I got at Radio Shack probably 10 years ago or more along with a TALL stack of original remotes and enjoying the system. I plan to take a couple vacation days soon and buckle down with CCP to see how far I can get.
You're welcome, Bill. Let me know if you need any help.
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post #229 of 305 Old 09-08-2014, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny Bahama View Post
[/LIST]
  1. About the only thing I'd suggest is a media server. I love mine. On-demand access to all your media without getting up to put a disc in -- that's the only way to fly!
Hi Donny,

I have looked at oShare, but both the OPPO and the Dune support SMB access and, while I don't have a true "NAS," I do have about 30TB of media (across a couple of iSCSI SANs) shared via Windows 2003 Server Datacenter. It is pretty cumbersome navigating that mess as it is spread over a dozen or so shares, but I don't really have to get up to insert the shiny disc if I don't want to.

That said - do you have a recommended media server package that might simplify my setup?

Thanks,
Bill
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post #230 of 305 Old 09-08-2014, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
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do you have a recommended media server package that might simplify my setup?
My media server is just a plain-jane Ubuntu file server in JBOD mode. (I personally wouldn't trust NTFS drives with media that I don't want to spend weeks reripping.) If/when I've got 6+ 3TB drives, I'll probably switch over to FreeNAS with ZFS but for now I've got a mish-mash of drives/sizes so JBOD is good enough. As for organization, I have the following shares on my server:

Movies-HD (Blu-ray/HDDVD rips)
Movies-SD (DVD rips)
TV-HD (TV show episodes ripped from BD/HDDVD)
TV-SD (TV show episodes ripped from DVD)
Music-HD (Music ripped to FLAC files)
Music-SD (Music ripped to MP3 - for compatibility with iPhones/iPads)
Photos

I use XBMC on my HTPC, and it does a good job of managing all the content in those shares. Or at least it used to. Lately, the scrapers have been making a mess of things and I'm getting pretty fed up and thinking about switching to Plex.

I installed Plex Media Server on my Ubuntu Server a while back so that I could share my library with friends as well as access everything remotely on my iPhone - but that has been problematic. (Port forwarding isn't really my strong suit.) I haven't yet bothered to try setting up the Plex client on my HTPC but I'm getting closer every day. The Plex client on my iPad (while I'm at home & connected to my internal LAN) works beautifully, so I'm leaning more and more toward dumping XBMC in favor of Plex.

There's a Plex client for Roku, and I know there used to be a 3rd party developer working on a Plex client for Dune but I have no idea what the current status of that project is.

Hope this helped.

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post #231 of 305 Old 09-09-2014, 05:06 PM
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Great job, Donny! Your information is invaluable to those starting out with programming an MX-780.


Regarding serial control with any of the Complete Control series of remotes, it can only be achieved with the (recently discontinued) MSC-400, an MRX-1 (also discontinued) or MRX-2. However, serial control with the MRX-2 is only available via a network controller. This includes the MX-5000, 6000 (discontinued), KP-4000 and iPad or Android app. To use an MX-780 (or any other CC remote) with an MRX-2 requires the addition of an RFX-250 RF antenna. This only gives the remote the ability to access the six IR outputs, not the RS-232 outputs or sensor.

Enjoy!

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post #232 of 305 Old 09-10-2014, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
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To use an MX-780 (or any other CC remote) with an MRX-2 requires the addition of an RFX-250 RF antenna. This only gives the remote the ability to access the six IR outputs, not the RS-232 outputs or sensor.
Bummer but this does confirm what my initial research has found - only IR control available with my setup consisting of a MRX-2, RFX-250, MX890, & MX-780. I just like the feel of the hard remote as opposed to tapping on a screen

I think the capability was not there with the MRX-1 either, you had to have the MSC-400.
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post #233 of 305 Old 09-10-2014, 02:09 PM
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I think the capability was not there with the MRX-1 either, you had to have the MSC-400.
Yes, that's correct, I meant to include the MRX-1.

Enjoy!

Mike
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post #234 of 305 Old 09-12-2014, 09:50 PM
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MX-1200 programming

I just ordered the MX-1200 and already have the software downloaded. Is there a step-by-step guide for learning how to program this thing?

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post #235 of 305 Old 09-16-2014, 07:06 AM
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I have a MX-780

I have tried editing the macros after the installer left and i keep messing up the codes.

Can you please help me understand how to do this.


Also are there codes for the PS4

I have attached the CCP file
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post #236 of 305 Old 09-16-2014, 08:51 AM
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A screenshot of your CCP window would be more helpful than the .ccp file.
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Quote:
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I just ordered the MX-1200 and already have the software downloaded. Is there a step-by-step guide for learning how to program this thing?
Click on help in the CCP software and it will bring up a list of pdf manuals. It is not exactly step by step but it will give you the overall concepts.
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post #238 of 305 Old 09-16-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by la_deville View Post
I have tried editing the macros after the installer left and i keep messing up the codes.

Can you please help me understand how to do this.


Also are there codes for the PS4

I have attached the CCP file
Look at the help guide for your model remote. There are several pages on macro's. What is probably messing you up is the installer used alias's for the codes and not directly from the library.

What device are you using to covert the codes for the PS4. There is no native support as that is bluetooth.
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post #239 of 305 Old 09-16-2014, 07:19 PM
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screen prints as requested.
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post #240 of 305 Old 09-16-2014, 09:44 PM
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OK, so, a big part of your problem is the way you have CCP laid out. Take a look at my layout in the attached screenshot. I'm not saying you should have yours laid out exactly like mine - find what works for you - but at a minimum, you're going to need the Model Designer, Simulator, Properties, IR Database Navigator, and Macro panels all showing and arranged in a way that fits your workflow.

As for a basic how-to, I've got the steps laid out in the attached screenshot, but you really should go to Help > Tech Guides and read "Programming in CCP".
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