The following applies to most decent universal remotes, including Smart and it's companion app. It should help you understand how they work so you can make a decision.
- Access every function from every remote, plus a few discrete power and input functions which may not appear on your original remote
- Assign any function or macro to any button
- Key group mapping (in a given state, map groups of keys to different devices, i.e., vol keys to an AVR, playback keys to a BD player, menu keys to a TV)
- Learn commands from any IR remote
- Macros. These are sequences of commands that run from a single button press. "Watch TV", for example, is what Harmony calls an Activity macro. It would send power and input commands to each device involved and map the key groups accordingly.
Within the constraints above, you can see that, if your original remote has a Netflix button, your Smart can too. The only reason Logitech stresses Netflix on a gaming console is that most other remotes can't control gaming consoles like the PS3 at all because it's bluetooth rather than IR.
If you original remote has arrow buttons to navigate, then the Smart can too. I don't know what One-Touch buttons are. I assume they refer to sequence macros. Those cannot be learned, rather you specify the steps. For example, if you want to make a "Pandora" sequence, perform the steps manually and remember or write them down, then put those steps in your sequence. So if the steps are Home, Streaming, up, down, left, right, select, then that's what you put in your sequence. A "Pandora" activity would be a little different. It would power on your devices and select the correct inputs as well, then perform the steps above. That's the main difference between a sequence macro (One-Touch?), and an Activity macro, the power and input commands (and key group mapping).
There are a couple of ways for a remote to be smart enough to know if a device is already on. One way is to use discrete power commands. All the devices you listed except your cable box has discrete power commands available. In this case the remote doesn't need to remember if a device is on or not. Sending multiple ON commands will always turn a device on and never back off. Another way is what I call state tracking. In the case of your cable box, which only has a power toggle, sending that command to a device that's already on will turn it back off. In this case the remote sets a bit to remember it just sent a power toggle to turn the device on. When there is another request to turn the device on, the remote checks that bit. If it's already set, it won't send power toggle again.
The Smart meets all your criteria. So do some other remotes. The Smart would not work for me because I don't want to rely on my phone to control certain functions. I like to be able to access every command and macro on my remote. That's a personal preference. I also don't like the fact that the Smart has no IR capability. Everything it controls must be line of sight with the hub. I don't like the fact that Smart has no display for additional commands. I realize the phone app serves this function, but unlike you, I don't want to use my phone. I find using any remote I have to look at to use to be a distraction. My philosophy is a remote should be a tool that you don't even think about, like the gear shift in a car. You never have to look at or think about the gear shift. You know what it does by feel and can operate it without thinking. Changing gears by touch screen would be cool, but it would take your attention away from the task of driving. It's nice to be able to do just about everything on your phone. But some tasks are better suited to a dedicated, single purpose device.
But getting off my soapbox now, the Smart looks like it will do exactly what you want. Just realize you have to build your sequences rather than learn them.