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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

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#1 ·
Samsung 61" HL61A750 and 67" HL67A750 LED DLP Owners thread/FAQ

This FAQ was last updated on: 3/3/09

Note: I stole the idea and layout for this thread from the excellent Onkyo 705 thread maintained by woots.

** See post 2 below for calibration and service menu tweak information! **


[For full change log, refer to the bottom of post #1]



Click below to view the Samsung details on samsung.com
Samsung Specs


Click below to download a PDF version of the Manual, or the latest firmware
Samsung downloads

Note: If you have firmware version lower than 1005.3 you should update your firmware to fix the power cycle issue and Component black out

Go to MENU, SETUP, SW Upgrade, Then press the INFO button to display firmware version.

This FAQ/owners thread is a work in progress!


The previous 2008 Samsung DLP discussion thread located here covered the 650 bulb based sets, as well as the 750 LED sets, and was started long before the sets came out. Many owners were requesting a separate owners thread to discuss this particular set. A 650 owners thread/FAQ has been started here, based on much of the same information in the FAQ.


There is lots of information in the old thread, but I will attempt to centralize the knowledge contributed from everyone in the old thread here. Feel free to post or PM additions, and I will add them to this section.



Whether your a potential "Buyer" or an "Owner" be sure to read through ALL sections of this FAQ as some questions people ask are located in various areas. I just wanted to separate out these sections to make locating important information a little easier for people doing research on the TV.


Frequently Asked Questions

- Does this FAQ also apply to the 650 bulb based sets? What about the 67" 750

Some of the items may very well apply to the 650 set. However, some menu items and settings may be different. The two sets use two different light engines, so expect some settings to be different. The information here does apply to the 67".

- What's the cheapest price I can find this TV?


The price constantly changes up and down since the day this TV came out at a MSRP of $2399. The current MSRP is $2099. Many users have found the TV on sale and in stores for around $250 below MSRP, (may require use of coupons), or from online retailers around $400 below MSRP.

- Why should I get a 750 LED series over the 650 bulb series?
  • The 750 comes in bigger sizes, 61" and 67".
  • The 750 has an LED light source that should last the life of the set. No bulbs to replace.
  • The 750 uses the CinemaPure Color Engine that creates brilliant, realistic images and displays color that's 40% brighter than traditional HDTVs. (Note that most sources don't take advantage of this extra color space. Some Camcorders do support it.)
  • Nearly instant startup times, with instant brightness no need for the bulb or ballast to warm up.
  • No spinning color wheel, so quieter TV (color wheels spin fast and can sometimes have a high pitch whine), and less moving parts
  • Much, much less chance of seeing rainbows as the LED's cycle much faster than the color wheel.
  • "Green" TV. The LED set uses much less power than bulb based sets and has one of the lowest energy consumption of TV's. Note that actual energy usage is less than the max rated watts listed on the TV.

- Why should I get the 650 series over the 750?
  • Cheaper.
  • Want a smaller size, 56" or below.

- Why should I get the 750 series over a competitor, like the Mitsubishi
  • The 750 has an LED light source that should last the life of the set. No bulbs to replace.
  • Nearly instant startup times, with instant brightness no need for the bulb or ballast to warm up.
  • No spinning color wheel, so quieter TV (color wheels spin fast and can sometimes have a high pitch whine), and less moving parts
  • Much, much less chance of seeing rainbows as the LED's cycle much faster than the color wheel.
  • "Green" TV. The LED set uses much less power than bulb based sets and has one of the lowest energy consumption of TV's. Note that actual energy usage is less than the max rated watts listed on the TV.
  • The Samsung has 120Hz video processing for smooth, judder free playback of 24 fps film based material, such as Blu-Ray movies
  • Extensive user menu settings for picture adjustments
  • The Phlatlight LED engine is made in the USA.

- Does this set use the new TI DarkChip4?

No. From looking at the service manual, it appears that the chip is the same as last years set, which would be DarkChip3.

See this post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post13922332
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenZ /forum/post/13922332


The service manual says the DLP chip in the HLT6189S, HL61A750, & HL67A750 is the same: xHD5 (search AVS for more info on it).


However, the "image enhancer" IC is new in the new models. Maybe better scaling/deinterlacing? Maybe lower cost? Maybe they stopped making the previous IC? The new IC is referred to as "BAYHILL+".
- Can you give me some more information on the Phlatlight LED's used?

From here: http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...f_illumination

Quote:
"..Currently, Samsung is the only television manufacturer to offer a line of PhlatLight-enabled DLP HDTVs. The Samsung HL-T61A750 (61-in.) or 67A750 (67-in.), for example, is illuminated using a single PhlatLight PT120 chipset, which was specifically designed and optimized for use with the Texas Instruments xHD5 1080p DLP chipset. The PhlatLight PT120 is a three-color system that includes a red, green and blue LED. Each LED is a single, large area monolithic chip that can sustain extremely high power and fast pulsing. The PT120's red, green and blue LEDs combine to produce pure, accurate sequential colored light and cycle at 2.9 KHz, 48 times faster than traditional television frame rates, creating a smooth, stable color and superior motion quality. The red, green and blue LEDs in the PT120 chipset combine to produce more than 3,000 white lumens under normal operating conditions (2,000 white lumens under pulsed operation), which is enough brightness to illuminate rear projection TVs up to 67 inches with a single RGB chipset. This new Samsung model also offers a contrast ratio of 10,000:1..."
- How do I access the service menu?

Be careful in the service menu, if you don't know what you are doing, you can screw up your set!

With the TV off, press Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power on the remote. Caution, this will cause all of your user picture menu items to reset to their defaults. So, you will have to redo your contrast, brightness, etc. settings whenever you go to the service menu. Write them down before hand!! To back out of a service menu item, hit the menu button

- What are all of these service menu items?

See the list here thanks to ztkp01.


Need to start working on a description of service menu items, if anyone would like to contribute...

- How can I bring up some test patterns from the service menu? (Might be useful in a store to check geometry)

From the service menu, you can get to the test patterns by going to the DDP3021 menu, and choosing Test Pattern (DDP). You can then right arrow through various test patterns. There is one for adjusting the picture position that may be useful for checking geometry.

You can also use this image, (just copy it to a USB thumb drive and connect it to the TV
http://psleng.dyndns.org/files/tv_test/grid.jpg


- What are the dimensions of the TV, the box, the base of the TV?

61":

Set size(WxHxD) 54.8" x 37.8" x 14.4"

Package size(WxHxD) 60.0" x 42.6" x 20.2"

Just under 40" wide for the bottom base.


Dimensional drawing courtesy of tomytyler:



67":

Set size(WxHxD) 60.8" x 41.5" x 15.5"

Package size(WxHxD) 65.9" x 46.2" x 20.7"


- Does this TV have 120Hz processing? Is it like the LCD's I see in the store? Why does it say 60Hz when I press the info button?

Yes, this TV is ALWAYS doing 120Hz video processing. It cannot be turned on or off. This is not the same effect that you may see on some LCD's in a store. Those LCD's have a feature called something like Motion Enhancement that is software to enhance the motion of the image. This often has the effect of making film look like video, and can also cause what is known as TBE or triple ball effect, where you might see three balls on a fast moving baseball due to software frame interpolation. Since DLP's have a hugely faster update rate, this is not needed. The 120Hz on this TV is used to provide judder free display of 24fps sources, such as blue ray movies. When you press the info button on the remote, it shows the frame rate of the SOURCE material. For regular TV, this will usually be 60Hz. For Blu rays, it will be 24Hz. But the TV always does 120Hz video processing. 120Hz is also used for the 3d features of the TV, or to provide two full screen independent images at 60Hz to users. These features require special glasses and must be supported by the source material

- Does this TV do 1080p/24fps?

Yes, see above.

- Should I buy an extended warranty? What is the cheapest place?

It is up to you. I find most retail stores warranties are too expensive. One popular alternative on this board is the Mack extended warranty offered with special AVS discount pricing here.

Mack Warranty info with special price from Texas Tapeworks.


Since these TV's have no bulb, you should be OK with the TV only warranty. AVS discount pricing was $125 last I checked.

- What is the Service Manual part number? Where can I order one?

The part number is SM-HL61A750A1F. You can order one from samsungparts.com for $28. Online retailers have electronic copies for SERVICE MANUAL 1 $28.00 $28.00


Other places have electronic versions available cheaper. Manualuniverse.com had it for $18.99. To find it you need to search for the complete model number, which is HL61A750A1FXZA

- What is SSE?

Stands for Silk Screen Effect. It is the "sparkly" or "shimmery" look on bright backgrounds, like sky shots. It is caused by the type of high gain screen used. It's effects (if it really bothers you) can be reduced with proper brightness and contrast adjustments

- Will the optical out pass DD5.1?

Only for over the air signals. From the manual:

When the receiver (home theater) is set to On, you can hear sound output from

the TV's Optical jack. When the TV is displaying a DTV(air) signal, the TV will send

out 5.1 channel sound to the Home theater receiver. When the source is a digital

component such as a DVD and is connected to the TV via HDMI, only 2 channel

sound will be heard from the Home Theater receiver.

If you want to hear 5.1 channel audio, connect the DIGITAL AUDIO OUT

(OPTICAL) jack on the DVD player or Cable/Satellite Box directly to an Amplifier or

Home Theater, not the TV.

- How much power does this actually set use?

According to measurements done by jayquinty , On: 119 Watts. Crutchfield measured off usage at only .6 Watts. It is one of the greenest TV's you can buy, especially for it's size.


User chuckolson made these measurements with his Kill A Watt P4400 Tester to show how power usage depends on LED control setting:

Auto 170 - 190 W.

Max 170 W.

High 140 W.

Medium 119 W.

Low 99 W.

Min 84 W.

- Does this set support discrete power on/off via IR?

Yes.
- What about IR codes to go directly to their inputs?

Yes.

- Can I directly select picture mode (Movie, Standard, or (ugh) Dynamic), using my Harmony remote?

Yes, but you need to email Logitech to have them add the commands to your account. I've asked them to update the database for our sets, but last I checked they had not.


Simply do the following[/size]:
  1. Go to the logitech website, and click the email support link here
  2. Fill in your information, and ask them to convert the Pronto hex codes below into remote codes. Include your harmony remote user name in the information.
  3. They should reply to your email and add them to your account. I have asked them to add these to the general database for our TV's, we'll see if they do.

I'm fairly sure these codes would also work for the 650 series of sets.


These codes are in standard Pronto hex format:


Picture mode - Dynamic

0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0728



Picture mode - Movie

0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0728



Picture mode - Standard

0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0728
- Does this tv work properly with the voice sync feature of HDMI 1.3a?

The TV is HMDI 1.3a compliant, but that doesn't mean it supports every feature that 1.3a can have. I haven't seen any reference to it supporting this, but will try and test it with my receiver, (Onkyo 805) which does support it, and will get back to you on this.


Known bugs, issues, warnings, setup advice
- Power cycle issue

Initial firmware release had issues where the set would randomly turn off. Fixed by firmware update 1000.4

- Black Adjust and/or Dynamic gets set to high (even though it says off) when switch to/from movie mode

When you go from Standard to Movie mode, or back to Standard, sometimes (not always on my set, haven't figured out quite the pattern), you may notice that blacks are suddenly very dark and being crushed. This is because Black Adjust in the Detailed picture setting is actually on high, even though it says off. To fix, just move the setting, and move it back to Off. I believe this also happened to me once with Dynamic Contrast.

- Black "flecks" on the inside of the screen

Most likely dust or something on the inside of the screen from shipping. Easily removed by opening up the circular access ports on the sides of the rear of the TV, and reaching in with a soft micorfiber or lens cloth and removing them

- Convergence, tilt, geometry issues

Several have reported various geometry or tilt issues, many have reported none. Tilt may be adjusted by moving the DMD light engine

- Calibration option in service menu

This is a warning, if you do this option you may need to turn the color management system back on using the CCA service menu item.

- 1080p over Component issue.

Some people have issues connecting the Xbox to the set and getting 1080p. In this case, the best connection option for Xbox is VGA cable, (or HMDI if you have that). NOTE that firmware 1000.5 should fix this issue.

- Buzzing in Dynamic mode, on very bright scenes

Some users, (including me), have reported a buzzing noise from the back of the TV if it is in Dynamic mode showing a bright scene. This is hard to hear unless the sound is muted. It may be a power supply, or the LED's , or what. I do not hear this in any of the other viewing modes. only dynamic on bright scenesLooking for more feedback from users to check how widespread this issue is


Link to similar problem with 2007 LED set, caused by LED driver board. Fix seems to be to replace the entire LED light engine.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...g#post12588890
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12430724


If the buzz is constant, not dependant on what is shown, it could be some other power supply.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...z#post12974128


- Verizon FIOS HDTV DVR picture dropouts

Kainan has reported a problem with the Verizon FIOS HDTV DVR and our TV. It loses picture randomly (every few days) and the only current fix is to unplug the power for a few seconds and plug it back in. Before I found this out I was spending tons of time on the phone with Verizon as they would reset the box and I would get the picture back. One person at Verizon said this is completely Samsung's fault while I did manage to talk to one person there who said that Verizon hadn't been able to keep up with the newer technology that is in the new Samsung 750 sets. Of course Samsung has said that this is a fault of Verizon. Neither side has budged yet and I still have to unplug the power every few days. This is ONLY on the HDTV boxes.


- Top bar reflections

Many users have reported that when watching a moview with black bars at the top and botoom, if a very bright obejct is at the top of the image, some light will bleed into the black bar.


TV Recommended Display Settings:
General Notes: Dynamic mode is pretty much regarded as useless, and intended for store demo purposes only. Standard is probably more preferable. Movie mode reportedly has the best D6500 color temp tracking.

You should adjust the contrast, brightness, color, gamma, etc. control for what looks correct for your set suing a calibration disk like the AVCHD disk, or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). So, some of the specific settings below are what worked for me, but may not work for you. However, as a general rule, recommended settings everyone should consider using are:

Edge Enhancement: off

Size: Just Scan

Color Gamut: sRGB


My settings:
Picture mode: Standard
Usage:What I like for normal Cable/HD viewing. Provides extra "pop", and 3D-ish look but clearly over saturated.

Contrast 97

Brightness 48

Sharp 0

Color 49

Tint 46/54Detailed Settings

Black Adj off

Dyn Contrast Low (Adds the "pop" many people are looking for)

LED Control Auto (Sometimes turn down to medium at night)

Gamma 0

White Bal -4

Flesh Tone -3

Edge Ehancement off

xvYCC off

Picture Options

Color Tone Normal

Size Just Scan

Digital NR Auto

DNIe Off

HDMI Black Lvl Normal * See notes below

Film Mode Auto

Blue Only Mode off

Color Gamut sRGB
Picture mode Movie
Usage: Movies, Blu Ray playback. Generally, the most accurate mode

Contrast 100

Brightness 47

Sharp 0

Color 49

Tint 50/50Detailed Settings

Black Adj off

Dyn Contrast off

LED Control Medium

Gamma -3

White Bal 0

Flesh Tone 0

Edge Ehancement off

xvYCC off

Picture Options

Color Tone Warm 2

Size Just Scan


Digital NR Auto

DNIe off

HDMI Black Lvl Normal * See notes below

Film Mode Auto

Blue Only Mode off

Color Gamut sRGB
Check out the Google Docs spreadsheet of other users settings Add your own to the spreadsheet, but please do not delete or change the format of the sheet, or I will have to lock it down.

HDMI black level may be grayed out and set to Auto for cable viewing. It is also grayed out for Blu Ray playback, (providing your machine is outputting a YPb signal). This setting only affects, and is only changeable with RGB signals, such as at the PS3 XMB dashboard, or a PC.


HDMI black level = normal tells the TV to expect "normal" PC RGB 0-255 levels. HDMI black level = Low tells the TV to expect it's input to have video RGB 16-235 levels, and the TV will expand these by lowering 16 to 0 and raising 235 to 255. When viewing an RGB encoded source, if your picture is too light and blacks are not very black, or if blacks are too dark and you loose a lot of shadow detail, try switching to the other setting.

PS3 Recommended Settings:
From PS3 Settings->Display settings menu: (Note you can also adjust these while watching a movie by using the triangle button and going to the AV Display settings icon)
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White: On (Allows blacker than black and whiter than whites to be passed)
RGB Full Range: Full (** This is to optimize it for PC RGB levels, such as games **)

PS3 Settings->BD/DVD Settings
BD/DVD Video Output Format (HMDI): Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr [Automatic is also OK. Note that on Auto, for Blu Ray's, it will send video as Y Pb, and for games and the XMB dashboard it will be RGB.]

TV Settings:
Detailed Settings:
--- xvYCC: Off (On seems to make no difference to me. Only devices that use this anyways are some camcorders. Turn it on if you have such a device.)
Picture Options:
--- HDMI Black Level: Normal

With the RGB Full Range set to Full, then the HDMI Black Level in the TV's Picture Options menu should be set to Normal. With the RGB Full Range set to Limited, then the HDMI Black Level in the TV's Picture Options menu should be set to Low.

Either way is "OK", as long as you keep them consistent. You should see virtually no difference between RGB Full/HDMI Normal and RGB Limited/HDMI Low. You should not have to adjust your contrast or brightness when switching between settings. The only difference that may be apparent, is some slight color banding in one mode or the other. Note that most people on this site will tell you that RGB limited is the correct setting. This *may* be true for *their* sets, but is really a recommendation to optimize it for video level encoded sources. However, since you can set these up to use YPb output, and our sets can support the full PC RGB range, therefor I feel it is better to recommend setting it up to optimize PC level material, such as games.


Check out this post by sperron which explains it very well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sperron /forum/post/12581788


After a correct calibration full should look exactly like limited does after calibration (though either can introduce banding, see below). When you calibrate, you set 0 (full) or 16 (limited) to match black on your TV. You then set 235 (limited) or 255 (full) to match peak white on your TV. After you have done that, 0 (full) and 16 (limited) should look just as black, and 235 (limited) and 255 (full) should be the same exact white. With digital TVs, you are limited by the black level and peak white level that your set is capable of. Setting contrast and brightness maps the black of the source to black on your TV and the peak white of your source to the peak white of your TV. Unless your TV has some odd quirk, after calibration full and limited should be identical (again except for possible banding, see below).


If you use full for video sources, you can introduce banding because 16-235 is stretched and remapped to 0-255.


If you use limited for RGB sources, you can introduce banding because 0-255 is compressed and remapped to 16-235.


What this means is:

1) Calibration is important whichever one you select.

2) if you are primarily into Blu-Rays, playing DVDs or streaming media then you want to use limited for optimal quality

3) if you primarily are concerned about video games, full may be a better choice, especially if you are seeing banding using limited when playing games.

4)If you aren't going to calibrate, neither full or limited are going to provide a perfect experience, though one may look "better" to you.


Unless you have a HDTV that can display better then 8 bits, your set is most likely going to cause banding no matter what you do because everything is remapped to your display screen's capabilities. Even if you use full, after calibration your HDTV probably does not have 255 steps for each color anyway. Even with PC monitors, you really have to go out of your way to get an LCD that can display a full 8 bit signal, and HDTVs are even less concerned about displaying a full 0-255 PC signal. You may actually be trying to map a full 0-255 to your HDTV that may not have enough digital steps for each color to even display the entire 16-235 limited signal. Someday when all HDTVs are 10bit or better displays, this will be a bigger deal.


Thanks to user Nullman who found some test material that demonstrates this color banding issue when set to RGB Limited/HDMI black Level low. You can see for yourself with the WipeOut HD game trailer or the WallE movie trailer as he describes below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nullman /forum/post/13985616


I see color banding with the settings you posted that I've not seen before. One piece of source that I saw this in is the Wipeout HD trailer from the Playstation Store. There are gray boxes that rotate by with bullet points about the game in between game footage. With your settings I can clearly see color banding in the gray boxes, under the text. I see maybe a dozen distinct colors of grays and I can clearly see each step to the next color. If I leave all of your settings the same and only change HDMI Black Level to Normal on the TV and set the PS3 to Full Range RGB, the gray colors blend more smoothly from one to the next. I thought maybe it was just that trailer, so I brought up the WALL-E trailer 2. I see some color banding there too. Not as bad as with the Wipeout HD trailer though. I see it in the top 1/3rd or so of the animated Pixar logo (with the hopping light) in the powder blue background. If you have access to these two sources I'd be curious to know if you or any one else see similar results.
If you do see color banding in your picture, then try the other combination

Xbox 360 Recommended Settings:
* This section still in progress *

If your Xbox does not have HDMI as an option, you can use component or VGA. Many posters seem to prefer the VGA connection, (there were issues early on with 1080p over component, that have since been fixed with a firmware update). From testing by Turls, he suggests setting the VGA reference level to Expanded as the best setting for Xbox.

Some calibration results:
rahull
StevenZ
StevenZ settings


A general comment (allegedly) from Eliab, a well known calibrator here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post13868219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sennat /forum/post/13868219


Saw this on the (private) avical forum, from Eliab:


The HL61A750 that I worked on this past Saturday may be the most impressive Samsung DLP that I've worked on thus far - and I've worked on hundreds. It's a bit quirky from a calibration standpoint, but it responded terrificly and rendered an extremely satisfying image. I can't imagine getting a better picture at this size for under 2k (presently). Samsung definitely took a step in the right direction with this one.
Other resources:

Here are a collection of resources that may be useful.

Check out the Cnet review of this set. Did very well!



2007 model HL-Txx87/89 Tech Links

Some very good information in here, although not everything applies to our sets.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post12663312



Change log

5-16-2008. Fixed link t[o specs on Samsung.com. Re-ordered FAQ. Added sections about light engine. Clarified what this FAQ applies to. Added full model number to link for service manual at manualuniverse. Added Darkchip4 question. Edited bug about doing calibrate option in service menu. Clarified 1080p/24fps support. Added xbox 1080p component issue. Added buzzing in Dynamic mode

5-17-2008: Black bar image note. Added tech links and other resources section

5-20-2008: Added section about why buy the 750 vs. Mitsubishi

5-21-2008 Added section on PS3 setup. Also new firmware is out.

5-22-2008 Added Darkchip4 = NO.

5-26-2008 Added power usage, discrete IR commands, and HDMI voice sync, Xbox 360 section

6-3-2008 Updated PS3 settings, recommended settings, phlatlight info

6-9-2008 Added package dimensions for 67", and link to 650 owners FAQ

7-22-2008 Added Cnet review link

8-23-2008 Added updated power usage info and Verizon FIOS HD DVR issue.

9-28-2008 Added info on Harmony remote direct picture mode selection

10-17-2008 Added dimensional drawing

3-3--2009 Added information in post #2 for calibration/service menu tweaks
 
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1
#121 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsfan1991 /forum/post/13930186


You do seem to be slightly confused, the reciever is connected to the TV via HDMI. I think the reciever has one HDMI output that goes to a TV so that is going into the TV HDMI input 1. So you don't think that HDMI can send sound to the reciever like that?

Exactly, the receiver is the source and it's OUPUT is connected to the TV's INPUT. I've never seen a TV that could send any signal out of it's HDMI input.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsfan1991 /forum/post/13930186


For some reason I could not get the cable box to work directly hooked into the reciever (no sound or picture), I don't know why but my temporary workaround (until I get an HD box with HDMI) was to simply connect the DTV box to the TV.

Do you have the HDMI Monitor setting on your Onkyo set to on? If so, all your sources should be upconverted and output through the HDMI out (as well as the onscreen setup menu for the receiver), see pages 47-48 in the manual. Once you get the new HD DTV box, you'll still be in a similar situation as now. You'll have to connect an HDMI out on the DTV box to a second HDMI input on the TV, and still have an optical cable going from the DTV to the Onkyo. Unless you ditch the DVD player and use the PS3 for your DVD/Blu-ray.
 
#122 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsfan1991 /forum/post/13927780


I am having a slight set-up problem, maybe one of you can help.


I have this TV and an Onkyo 605 reciever.


Here is how it is set up.


TV to Reciever = HDMI

PS3 to Reciever = HDMI port 1

DVD player to Reciever = HDMI port 2

Direct TV box = TV Compnent 1 (I do not have a HD box yet)


In this configuration I, coud not get sound for DTV to the reciever. After reading the instructions for both the TV and reciever I ended up slapping a Optical between them and it worked. But that kind of defeats the purpose of running the HDMI between the two doesn't it? Is there a way to transfer the sound from the TV to the reciever through HDMI?

The ONKYO 605 DOES NOT convert all incoming signals to HDMI. You must run a seperate COMPONENT Cable via COMPONENT OUT into your TV. You also need to run a seperate Audio Cable. This option is User Preference as to where you want to audio to come from TV or Receiver


EX:


COMPONENT: OUT- Component Cable into the TV

DIRECTV: Component Cable from the Box into COMPONENT 1 of the Receiver
 
#123 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 /forum/post/13931074


The ONKYO 605 DOES NOT convert all incoming signals to HDMI. You must run a seperate COMPONENT Cable via COMPONENT OUT into your TV. You also need to run a seperate Audio Cable. This option is User Preference as to where you want to audio to come from TV or Receiver


EX:


COMPONENT: OUT- Component Cable into the TV

DIRECTV: Component Cable from the Box into COMPONENT 1 of the Receiver

It's weird that the manual says it does then. . .


A little more looking around and it looks like there are issues converting 1080p component to HDMI with this receiver, but I doubt that's an issue here. The only other problem that I can think of at the moment would be if the TV can't take a 720p signal on the HDMI, as the upconversion with the Onkyo is only 720p.


Both the manual and this review say the receiver can convert analog to HDMI:
http://reviews.cnet.com/av-receivers...?tag=cnetfd.mt


This is referenced in the review for how to change the HDMI upconversion resolution:
http://help.cnet.com/9602-12576_39-0...sageID=2510170
 
#124 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by telero /forum/post/13931573


It's weird that the manual says it does then. . .


A little more looking around and it looks like there are issues converting 1080p component to HDMI with this receiver, but I doubt that's an issue here. The only other problem that I can think of at the moment would be if the TV can't take a 720p signal on the HDMI, as the upconversion with the Onkyo is only 720p.


Both the manual and this review say the receiver can convert analog to HDMI:
http://reviews.cnet.com/av-receivers...?tag=cnetfd.mt


This is referenced in the review for how to change the HDMI upconversion resolution:
http://help.cnet.com/9602-12576_39-0...sageID=2510170

From what I know you cannot up-convert via the HDMI-OUT. I own the 605 & tried. It just can't happen. I have my 360 connected to my 605 via Component & in order to get VIDEO I needed to run another Component Cable from the Component Out(605) into my Component Input of my TV.


Here's a quote from that CNET Review confirming what I'm saying:

Quote:
While the analog-to-digital video conversion is overall a nice feature for convenience, there are a couple of quirks on the TX-SR605. For example, those planning to use the TX-SR605 with 1080i signals via a component video input will be disappointed to find out that all 1080i signals via component are downconverted to 720p when output over the HDMI output. Furthermore, 1080p signals via the component video input cannot be output via the HDMI output at all.



I would say to the OP check-out the Officail 605 thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=854964
 
#125 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BATman94 /forum/post/13930026


I just saw a post in another related board that the HL67A750 now on display at some stores seems to have a thicker frame than the HL61A750 which could help with geometry issues.


As soon as someone acquires the HL67A750 I would be curious to know their impressions, and if any problems are observed.


Thanks in advance.


ABT is listing the 67A750 on their website. There is a $375 difference between the 67 and the 61. I'm going to take a ride to ABT( I live about 50 miles away) either this weekend or next. If I do, I'll keep you in mind.
 
#126 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPOnion /forum/post/13927227


Hah, mine's in the exact same situation. Arrived in Columbus after leaving Harrisburg. It got there last night, though...but considering I'm in Reno, I doubt I'll get it for a while. **sigh** Reading the new posts on this thread makes me want this TV sooner.

OK, WTF is up with Amazon's tracking system? When I first saw that it arrived in Columbus, it said it arrived at 1:06am, 5/22. If I look at it now, it says 12:52am, 5/23. They're moving the arrival date back. Any idea why? Is it to make it seem like it's not sitting there as long as it really will be?


I want to replace my ~8year old budget 27" TV now...
 
#127 ·
Hey guys

I went to BB the other day to gaze upon the 61A750. It's a gorgeous TV, but from what I saw in the store, the vertical viewing angle was... well... horrible. Even positioning my head so the tv was at eye-level, I could still see a non-uniform picture whenever a commercial with a solid color background came on. I realize this is an RPTV we're talking about so yeah the viewing angle is going to be an issue but... is that the kind of viewing angle I could expect with the TV at home in a dark room, or does the brightness of the show floor make the viewing angle worse than it would be?
 
#128 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 /forum/post/13931739


From what I know you cannot up-convert via the HDMI-OUT. I own the 605 & tried. It just can't happen. I have my 360 connected to my 605 via Component & in order to get VIDEO I needed to run another Component Cable from the Component Out(605) into my Component Input of my TV.


Here's a quote from that CNET Review confirming what I'm saying:

But that also says that analog to digital conversion (component to HDMI) is possible. And as far as I know, the box we're talking about is a DirecTV box and isn't capable of 1080p over component. (There isn't any 1080p DirecTV equipment that I know of...)


Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 /forum/post/13931739


I would say to the OP check-out the Officail 605 thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=854964

I agree. This is getting a little OT. Unless the TV isn't capable of displaying the 720p signal via HDMI from the converted component signal, this is really a receiver issue.
 
#129 ·
Well, against all odds, the TV got here today. I got a call from CEVA on Thursday at 10:30a to schedule delivery. I didn't get the call, but did return it 1:30p, got ahold of someone other than the origninal caller, and set up delivery between 10a and 3p for today.
This morning I get a call at 10a again from CEVA, the lady said that since I hadn't gotten back in touch with her, she scheduled a smaller truck and the TV was one of 2 items that couldn't fit, so they got left behind.



I told her that I did call back and set up the delivery time and she even said she knew I had, so I can only guess that since it took me 3 hours to get back in touch with her, she had already ordered a truck that wasn't big enough. I'm not sure, never did get a good explanation. Anyway, I told her that I had a confirmed delivery time and took the day off work to be here to receive it and had dismantled my whole entertainment center in preparation for it to be here today. She said she would call their dispatcher and give me a call back.


So, needless to say I was mad and frustrated. 40 minutes later, she calls back and saysshe got permission for dispatch to bring in another shipping company that will be hauling only my TV and that the truck was on it's way to get it at their warehouse.
I was shocked, to say the least and appreciative. They arrived here at 2pm and the set looks great, although I have only run a test pattern so far. Time to start playing!
 
#130 ·
Does anyone else have a problem with fan noise when the volume is do pretty low?


Maybe I am just picky but I took our first tv back because of the buzzing some complain of on dynamic mode I can also hear it on standard mode. I have turned the contrast down and the buzzing is livable now.


But the fan on the second tv is much louder than the first. The samsung repair tech came to the house and said they all to that. Did not want to hear that our first tv did not.
 
#131 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasamuneXGP /forum/post/13932860


Hey guys

I went to BB the other day to gaze upon the 61A750. It's a gorgeous TV, but from what I saw in the store, the vertical viewing angle was... well... horrible. Even positioning my head so the tv was at eye-level, I could still see a non-uniform picture whenever a commercial with a solid color background came on. I realize this is an RPTV we're talking about so yeah the viewing angle is going to be an issue but... is that the kind of viewing angle I could expect with the TV at home in a dark room, or does the brightness of the show floor make the viewing angle worse than it would be?

The viewing angle on my set, as well as on the one on display at CC that I viewed prior to ordering mine, is very impressive actually. I wonder if there might not be something wrong with the set itself, or the setup of the one you saw...


Try another location if you can find one nearby and take another look!
 
#132 ·
Why is it that LEDs dont produce true whites. Was in CC and was real intrested in the 67 and the whites were terrible. Is there a way to adjust it to produce better white ?



TV was next to a Mitsu 65735 and there was no comparison , also noticed that it still isnt nearly as brite as a bulb either. I thought this new LED was supposed to be brighter ?



My last 2 TVs have both been Sammys but that Mitsu looked much better , even after making some adjustments to the Sammy. Id love a 67 LED , but was very dissapointed in the comparison next to the Mitsu , and im NOT a Mitsu fan.
 
#133 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CC Quest /forum/post/13935462


Why is it that LEDs dont produce true whites...Is there a way to adjust it to produce better white?

After calibration, my HL61A750 nails reference D65 white almost perfectly. This set is capable of extremely bright, extremely good picture quality. Most CC & BB stores are not equipped for or interested in making any given TV look its best. It's much easier to leave all the sets in "torch mode" because that cartoony look really sells.
 
#134 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenZ /forum/post/13935861


After calibration, my HL61A750 nails reference D65 white almost perfectly. This set is capable of extremely bright, extremely good picture quality. Most CC & BB stores are not equipped for or interested in making any given TV look its best. It's much easier to leave all the sets in "torch mode" because that cartoony look really sells.

I agree with store settings however i took TV off of the dynamic setting and still the bottom line is it didnt come close to the natural look and true color of the Mitsu.


What level of calibration did you do , did you pay someone to come in and set it up or did you buy one of those self DVDs and adjust yourself ?


Did you post your settings ? I appreciate your feedback , thanks
 
#135 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CC Quest /forum/post/13935919


What level of calibration did you do , did you pay someone to come in and set it up or did you buy one of those self DVDs and adjust yourself?...Did you post your settings?

I did it myself, approximating what I'd pay someone else to do: adjust some user controls, and some in the service menu. I posted my settings and more, here .
 
#136 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPOnion /forum/post/13932812


OK, WTF is up with Amazon's tracking system? When I first saw that it arrived in Columbus, it said it arrived at 1:06am, 5/22. If I look at it now, it says 12:52am, 5/23. They're moving the arrival date back. Any idea why? Is it to make it seem like it's not sitting there as long as it really will be?


I want to replace my ~8year old budget 27" TV now...


ont sure why they would do that


but I live outside Detroit MI and I see packages come from fedex and ups both go to Columbus and then to Detroit then to Columbus again and finally to the sort facility in Taylor or Livonia


so it actually goes from Ohio to Michigan back to Ohio and then back to Michigan - I have called and asked about this everytime I order something but no one has an answer for me - also the ship date always gets puched back 1 day because of this crap
 
#137 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by WV_Mtneer /forum/post/13933057


Does anyone else have a problem with fan noise when the volume is do pretty low?


Maybe I am just picky but I took our first tv back because of the buzzing some complain of on dynamic mode I can also hear it on standard mode. I have turned the contrast down and the buzzing is livable now.


But the fan on the second tv is much louder than the first. The samsung repair tech came to the house and said they all to that. Did not want to hear that our first tv did not.

Do you have the 61A750? I posted a while back that I could barely hear my fan I was worried it may not have been running. Does your fan run after you shut the TV off? The noise I am hearing turns off after I turn the TV off. I can't hear any noise unless i stick my head behind the TV and like I said it is not very audible.
 
#138 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro /forum/post/13919365


I don't have an Xbox, so I can't say how it should be hooked up. But, from searching the forums, I thiink the best way is to have the Xbox 360 set to "Standard" rather than "Expanded". Can someone with an Xbox please confirm or post the best settings so I can add them to the FAQ?

I took a look at this over component (my 360 does not have HDMI), color gamut set to sRGB, Black Adjust and Dynamic Contrast set to off.


The Xbox360 has 3 options for black level. Note it will only affect 480p output and DVD playback:


Standard - Displays blacker than black. To get blacker than black to just blend into the backgroud I had to reduce brightness to 30


Intermediate - Displays blacker than black with a darker picture. To get blacker than black to just blend into the background I had to set brightness at 38


Extended - Does not display blacker than black. Brightness at 45 appeared correct.
 
#139 ·
Ok, serious problem here and my wife is ready to kill me!!!

My connections

Direct tv to tv-hdmi

ps3 to tv-hdmi

tv to sony receiver-optical

whenever i turn on my ps3 and it goes into the psn menu the sound is blaring thru my tv (the little psn chime and navigating the menu)????? I mean blaring.... I had set the tv sound to off when we got it and there is no problem while watching satellite tv (directtv) with getting sound thru the receiver.

Just now, for the first time in the week and a half I have had the tv my ps3 asked me (or is it the tv) if I wanted audio and video thru the HDMI it detected?????

Is this the problem? The hdmi audio from the ps3????? I know its not the receiver b/c it can be off and the sound still comes thru the TV although its set not too.....

Please help or I will get bludgeoned by the boss if I wake her or the kids from naps...

Thanks and I hope this makes sense.
 
#140 ·
You should connect optical cables to the receiver, not the tv! TV will only pass DD 2.0
 
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