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Walmart US Digital STB Questions

303K views 2K replies 310 participants last post by  speedlaw 
#1 ·
For anyone who has this OTA STB:


1. Does it output HD via component cables?

2. Does it output SD at the same time thru either S-video or composite?


What indoor antenna works well with it?


Thanks.
 
#1,154 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtbs /forum/post/14645596


dogleg69,


Your recommendation was right on. I upgraded to 2.9.4 using the userupgrade version and it worked perfect. There was no rescan and my channel 5.1 and 5.2 were still there. Everything is great now. Thanks!!!


You mentioned in the previous post about the PSIP info not agreeing with the newer software. If that is the case, then wouldn't my problem come back after I installed 2.9.4? Just wondering.


jtbs

Hmmm. So, you went back to 2.5.59 and your FOX (ch 5) was enabled and you could use it. Then you used the 2.9.4 "userupgrade" (which does NOT reinstall everything, it just updates the software but keeps the previous configuration), and you can now receive FOX (ch5) properly?


Indeed, if that is the case, it is probably not the PSIP. It still could be the PSIP info when adding a station, but not when using/tuning. To add the station, the VCT (virtual channel table) is parsed. Again, hmmm. All very good information. In any case, if it worked, then that is great and we have found a strange, but usable workaround. Thanks for sharing the information.
 
#1,155 ·
dogleg69,


Since I had good luck with upgrading my first box, I decided to try it on another one I got from ebay. However, I cannot even flash the firmware on this new one. When I first power up the device, it wants to go thru diagnostics. It says something about testing the DS2505, then it tests the led's, and then it asks to put a flash drive to test the usb port. After all this, it says to connect the antenna. After a few seconds, it says the picture and audio should be showing and to use the + and - buttons to change channels. But there is no picture. Except for + and - buttons, no other buttons on the remote works, not even power. It does not look like the unit even went thru a channel scan.


I have tried all the firmware versions on your site and a couple from another site and I cannot get the darn thing to apply a different firmware. I compared the circuit boards inside the new and my old one and they are different.


Are there versions of this unit out there that you cannot change the firmware at all? If so, how do you identify it?


In the initial diagnostic of the unit, it does show that there are two NAND chips. Is there a magic code via the remote that I could try to have it revert to the firmware on the second NAND chip?


Thanks.


jtbs
 
#1,156 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtbs /forum/post/14685986


Since I had good luck with upgrading my first box, I decided to try it on another one I got from ebay. However, I cannot even flash the firmware on this new one. When I first power up the device, it wants to go thru diagnostics.

From what you are describing, you have the "test" firmware that was put on directly at the manufacturing plant by Hisense for USDTV. That firmware is just for diagnostic and has no DTV code in it.


Where did you get it (which ebay seller)? PM me if you don't want to say on the forum. And which other sites did you get firmware?


None of the software posted will fix that box. There is no revert sequence. That is the original flash from the factory.
 
#1,157 ·
Hey all -


I hope this has not already been covered ad nauseum (I tried to search but there are A LOT of posts on here).


Anyhow, I have the USD/Hisense 2010 HD receiver - I bought it about 3 years (maybe a little less) ago. Stil has the factory firmware on it I suppose - I requested an update USB, but what do you know? I never got one!


Anyhow, I did not need it and it has been put up in storage for about 1.5 years now. Before this time it was working great (for the most part - I was having issues with it reading a signal from some stations - namely PBS stations) and not actually showing them. Anyhow, I got it back out today and plugged it in and set it all back up the way it was and now as soon as I turn it on, both the signal and power lights are flashing about 1 time a second. I cannot get it to respond to anything.


Now, I read in a thread here that someone said this happened and that it was a power supply issue. However, I am not convinced that is the case in my situation. Reason being, how likely is it that it works perfectly fine when I put it up - it never had any power going to it in the mean time, and then all of a sudden the power supply is bad? Not to mention I took the cover off to look and everything looks pristine - not even any dust. Now, I am not going to say I know without a doubt it is not the power supply, but my logic dictates that it is quite possible it may be something else. (maybe I am wishful thinking, I dunno). Is there anything else I can try - also, I have a multimeter - can I possibly test the power supply before getting a new one? I mean, I know that they are pretty cheap, but I really do not feel like fooling with all that if that is necessesary. Thanks!


Mike
 
#1,159 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogleg69 /forum/post/14689696


What color are the lights (red or green)?

Ah yes, I left that part out - they are both green (and actually, not that it really matters, I am sure - they are blinking quite rapidly - not once a second but once every .5 seconds.) I opened it up again to really inspect it and I took it out, reseated the cables and turned it back on and am still getting the same thing.


The only thing I can find on the blinking lights is that if the power is blinking that it is updating. But I am not sure that is the case here. I am not getting anything on screen except blue and a "noise" at every blink of the lights.


Mike
 
#1,160 ·
So here is an update. Apparently when i was testing it before I was impatient and didn't even have the tv set to be on the input source for the box long enough.


So I turned it back on and it was blue for about 20 seconds, then the screen flashed and it was black (similar to what I remember when it first came on before) and stays black for about 4 seconds and then goes back blue again. The lights never stop flashing; however, it repeats this about every 20-30 seconds. UNLESS I hold the power button in. If I hold the power button in for 5 seconds, the lights do not stop flashing, but the black screen appears about 5 seconds after I let off the power button each time I do it. So, I got to thinking, it seems as though it is trying to boot up but is stuck on something. So, could I create a bootable USB stick (I have seen it in passing, but have not actually dove into making one yet) and put that in there? I suppose I can answer my own question by saying that it cannot hurt at this point, right?


Mike
 
#1,161 ·
Well, that was a no go. So possibly it is a power supply issue
. It is just weird that it was working fine the last time I had it plugged in but now it is not - I mean how does a PS go bad without being plugged in?? I will not be 100% convinced until I test it though. Like I said, I have a multimeter, but I have never used (or tested) it with a board before, so I am not quite sure that I am doing this right, but common sense tells me that I am -


I tested the each of the pins that the cable connecting the PS to the mainboard and this is what I am getting:


12v - about 3.90v

5v - about 1v

3.5v - about .5-.9


So I am guessing that if I am doing it right that it is fried. Dangint. So weird that that happened. Please let me know if I am testing it wrong though! This is a shot in the dark, but it wouldn't happen to be the actual cord could it? Is it safe to test with the multimeter? If so, how?


Also, I am guessing that there is not really anywhere I can get this replacement PS from besides a used receiver, is there? Meaning, they do not happen to make some sort of universal type of set up that I could get at like radio shack or something?


Mike
 
#1,162 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shelzmike /forum/post/14690865


Well, that was a no go. So possibly it is a power supply issue .

Two blinking green lights is the power supply (from my experience). However, great job on the diagnostics. Since you have a it open, just make sure that all the connections from the PSU to the motherboard and the tuner are seated properly.


Blinking lights can also mean a subscription box is trying to download an upgrade. If you have updated to FTA software and you are still getting green blinking lights, the PSU is toast. This is becuase the newer FTA releases do not try to download upgrades since USDTV is out of business.


My money is on a bad PSU, but I hope not.
 
#1,163 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogleg69 /forum/post/14687346


From what you are describing, you have the "test" firmware that was put on directly at the manufacturing plant by Hisense for USDTV. That firmware is just for diagnostic and has no DTV code in it.


Where did you get it (which ebay seller)? PM me if you don't want to say on the forum. And which other sites did you get firmware?

dogleg69,


So is there any way you know of to install a working firmware?


The item came from ebay seller susansadventure. I think the firmware issue was a mistake somehow because other buyers reported units that work fine from this seller. I plan on contacting the seller to see what they can do. As for the other site where I got firmware, it was http://elinux.org/Wiki/HiSense .


jtbs
 
#1,164 ·
Yeah, I decided to play around with it while it was open and unseated and reseated all connections - still a no go. The weird thing is though, I tested underneath the board right where the molex connects to the board. I am not sure how to read the meter, but I had it set on 1000v AC and there are three spaces of numbers on there (not sure how that works out). I was getting the fluctuating with the highest reading being a 035 or something to that effect. However, due to my limited knowledge beyond the principles of what a circuit, this really tells me nothing, although it seems like it is not even getting enough power TO the board to start with (that is, unless the reading was normal). Again with my strange ideas, but it is not possible that the power cord itself is bad is there? The way that it is set up tells me that is probably nearly impossible (and yes I did try different outlets on the off chance that one just so happened to be going bad).


That being said, it is puzzling as there are NO visible signs that there is anything wrong with it at all - no burning, melting, discoloration or otherwise. This might actually be an interesting project for me to learn more about how it works and how to repair them. I mean, at this point, what is it going to hurt?


This power supply board does not look all that complicated - there are not too many capacitors and resistors, one of which, I am assuming is the culprit. From what I have read, it sounds like it is more likely that it is a capacitor (but I may be wrong). That being said, there are a couple of the larger cylinder capacitors that are not flat on the top - I have read about bulging, but the state at which they are in does not lend itself to me saying that they are bulging, more like just a little rounded.


Sooooo, if I could figure out which one is bad then I can just replace it and see if that works, but the problem is troubleshooting - I mean I have the tool, but do not really know where to start. I have found numerous fault-finding diagrams, but none for the layperson like me. If anyone knows how I can go about figuring out what the failed part is, that would be great. OR, if I really wanted practice, I suppose I could just replace them all! Not sure I am that gung-ho about it right now.



Mike
 
#1,165 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtbs /forum/post/14692829


So is there any way you know of to install a working firmware?


The item came from ebay seller susansadventure. I think the firmware issue was a mistake somehow because other buyers reported units that work fine from this seller. I plan on contacting the seller to see what they can do.

I contacted that seller. It was a mistake. Did you buy a new or used box? You got a new one direct from the factory. If you have the ability to run the makekey script in linux, then I can help you. If not, then contact the seller and they will take care of you.
 
#1,166 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shelzmike /forum/post/14692958


That being said, it is puzzling as there are NO visible signs that there is anything wrong with it at all - no burning, melting, discoloration or otherwise. This might actually be an interesting project for me to learn more about how it works and how to repair them. I mean, at this point, what is it going to hurt?

I would buy another one on ebay first. Then switch the PSU and see if that does it -- before trying to repair it. I think it would be cheaper anyway. Or, if there is anyone who has a broken unit on the AVS, maybe they would sell it to you for the price of postage. I wish I had some extra units to part out for the members here. smintn also had a problem. I looked for one unit that I had that was bad, but I must have thrown it out like an idiot.
 
#1,167 ·
dogleg69


I don't know if I posted it or not but one of my ebay units was erratic on updates a while back it had done almost the same thing with the blinking lights etc like one of the flash chips had gone out.....on power up I kept using the rollback sequence repeatly (you had to be patience to see it clear while watching the screen) It finally settled down and I was able to flash the firmware....but you know come to think of it that may be the unit that has the now defunct power supply.


(as I remember)I did find out the supply on these units will only read correctly if it is plugged in with at least the motherboard as a load


Is there a source for getting a replacement ps for these units? Proserv never got back in touch with me on that subject


thanks


my walmart unit still keeps working fine as compared to the ebay units (ch41 haven't experimented with that yet don't have ant sig split yet to feed unit to leave on for a few days for the last update to check this)...I went back and looked at the system info on my 4 units I have 2 2010 units and 2 2020 units. Anyone ever figure out the reason for the 2 different hardware numbers? Also I can't remember which one's but the motherboard of one or more of my units has a mod on what looks like a regulator with an added component.....
 
#1,168 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogleg69 /forum/post/14694620


I would buy another one on ebay first. Then switch the PSU and see if that does it -- before trying to repair it. I think it would be cheaper anyway. Or, if there is anyone who has a broken unit on the AVS, maybe they would sell it to you for the price of postage. I wish I had some extra units to part out for the members here. smintn also had a problem. I looked for one unit that I had that was bad, but I must have thrown it out like an idiot.

Obviously, the second situation would be ideal since I would even be willing to pay a bit more than just postage to someone from the forum - at least this way I would be paying ACTUAL postage charges and not some inflated shipping charges that seem to always be present on Ebay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smintn /forum/post/14694647


dogleg69



(as I remember)I did find out the supply on these units will only read correctly if it is plugged in with at least the motherboard as a load

What do you mean here? That the mb at least has to be plugged in for you to get an accurate reading or that the mb can be the ONLY thing plugged in to get an accurate reading? I tested it with everything plugged in, so I am guessing it works. I am just baffled that it does not even seem to be getting enought power to the input where the molex connector attaches. Weird. Too bad it is not easy enough to switch it with some sort of other board that can supply the power!


In a way, I am thinking I do not need it really (have satellite) but really like watching some of the races and TV shows in HD. That being said, I may just get a new one - just to be sure that it is the power supply.


Regardless of what I do, I will post back here as an update. Reason being, I see a couple of other posts here that state the same problem, but then those people just disappear with no update as to if that was it or what.


Mike
 
#1,169 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shelzmike /forum/post/14694785


I am just baffled that it does not even seem to be getting enought power to the input where the molex connector attaches. Weird. Too bad it is not easy enough to switch it with some sort of other board that can supply the power!

If you checked with all things plugged in I believe dogleg69 was right the power supply sounds bad.......

These are the voltages you should read on the 2010/2020 they are approximate

These are dc voltages, make sure your meter is on the dc setting where it can read at least 35volts dc (settings vary with make and model of meter)

3.3v = 3.3v

5v = 4.9v

12v = 12.2v

30v = 31.2v have seen as high as 33v

these readings can be taken on the power connector (wire side) on the motherboard (3.3v,5v,12v) one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The 30v readings can be taken on power connector (wire side) on tuner assembly one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The readings for ac input can be taken across the black and white wires coming in from the plug, slightly lift the ac in connector tp power supply just enough to take a reading be careful ac will arc and scare the hell out of you plus it can weld meter leads and trip a main breaker.

Also set the meter to read ohms (resistance) (with power cord unplugged) take a reading across the fuse it should read zero ohms (resistance)

-dogleg69

after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-

On my 2010 units on the motherboard there is a mod that has been made in the N102 (AZ1084S 5amp low dropout linear regulator) area resistor r510 has been added (discrete component) and tied to an unlabeled resistor going to a cut leg on the N201 and then tied back

Now on the 2020 units in this same area there are surface mounted parts and that multi pin connector pad area is orientated differently (a respun board) this would be a reason to distinguish between the motherboards by having different hardware numbers in the system info.
 
#1,170 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogleg69 /forum/post/14694582


Did you buy a new or used box? You got a new one direct from the factory. If you have the ability to run the makekey script in linux, then I can help you.


dogleg69


I do not know if it is a new box or not. But it looks fairly new.


I do have the ability to run the makekey script in linux. What do you need me to do? Thanks.


jtbs
 
#1,171 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smintn /forum/post/14697785


If you checked with all things plugged in I believe dogleg69 was right the power supply sounds bad.......

These are the voltages you should read on the 2010/2020 they are approximate

These are dc voltages, make sure your meter is on the dc setting where it can read at least 35volts dc (settings vary with make and model of meter)

3.3v = 3.3v

5v = 4.9v

12v = 12.2v

30v = 31.2v have seen as high as 33v

these readings can be taken on the power connector (wire side) on the motherboard (3.3v,5v,12v) one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The 30v readings can be taken on power connector (wire side) on tuner assembly one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The readings for ac input can be taken across the black and white wires coming in from the plug, slightly lift the ac in connector tp power supply just enough to take a reading be careful ac will arc and scare the hell out of you plus it can weld meter leads and trip a main breaker.

Also set the meter to read ohms (resistance) (with power cord unplugged) take a reading across the fuse it should read zero ohms (resistance)

-dogleg69

after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-

On my 2010 units on the motherboard there is a mod that has been made in the N102 (AZ1084S 5amp low dropout linear regulator) area resistor r510 has been added (discrete component) and tied to an unlabeled resistor going to a cut leg on the N201 and then tied back

Now on the 2020 units in this same area there are surface mounted parts and that multi pin connector pad area is orientated differently (a respun board) this would be a reason to distinguish between the motherboards by having different hardware numbers in the system info.


You know what? Me being a newb shines through on this here - I was testing with AC! And yes, I did test the black and white on AC, and yes it arced and scared the hell outta me (my cat sitting there was indifferent however!), but it did not weld my leads and throw a main breaker, so that was lucky. I will test using DC and see what I get. As far as ground, I was just using the case itself - it seemed to be working, is that good enough for a ground?


Mike
 
#1,172 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smintn /forum/post/14697785

after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-

smintn - great post. Thanks for all the good information. I could swear that one of my original subscription boxes said db2010. Then USDTV pushed a new version of software out over the air. After that it said db2020. I have no idea what the difference is -- not that it matters I guess. The software works on both.


Until proven otherwise, I think your db2010/2020 explaination is the best so far. Thanks again for a great post.
 
#1,174 ·
Hi - I had one of these HiSense boxes given to me by a family member. They had it hooked up and working great. After taking possession of it, I hooked it up to my TV in the same fashion, though it simply isn't working - The two lights come on, but nothing else happens (no image on the screen, unresponsive to remote control, etc.).


My family member checked out my setup and saw nothing wrong with it. They also told me that they had a similar issue when they bought it - then it suddenly resolved itself.


Any suggestions?
 
#1,176 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TAKN /forum/post/14727151


Hi - I had one of these HiSense boxes given to me by a family member. They had it hooked up and working great. After taking possession of it, I hooked it up to my TV in the same fashion, though it simply isn't working - The two lights come on, but nothing else happens (no image on the screen, unresponsive to remote control, etc.).


My family member checked out my setup and saw nothing wrong with it. They also told me that they had a similar issue when they bought it - then it suddenly resolved itself.


Any suggestions?

How is it hooked up (composite or component)? Was this type of connection the same as your other family memeber was using? The box will only output on the connection type specified in the Video setup.
 
#1,177 ·
dogleg69


Tonight I finally got to hookup my old vcr to my db-2010 to record a couple of my favorite thursday night shows.


After I got the time correct on both units and set all the recorder timers up etc it recorded the program flawlessly



Thanks for the great job on the programming!
 
#1,178 ·
My Walmart USDigital ATSC tuner quit last night (one year old) and I'm now looking for another atsc tuner (even if it comes with a recorder). I picked up a panasonic dmr-ez28k from circuit city last night ($196) but am not too happy with the picture. The old USD had a super-sharp picture vs the new pana. using HDMI cable.


Are there still any good atsc tuners out there for over the air use?


My tv is a rear porjection sony hd ready. It can broadcast really sharp resolutions.
 
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