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SVS New PC12-NSD Owners

155K views 843 replies 189 participants last post by  mogrub 
#1 ·
I did a search but can't find much on the new PC12-NSD. I find all kinds of great info on the PC13 Ultra and even the new PC12-Plus. So anyone have one of these or is looking into getting one? I really want a great sub but I'm not sure I want to spend the money of some of the higher priced subs.


So lets hear some thoughts on this very nicely priced sub.
 
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#102 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trumpets777 /forum/post/15858790


I will also be getting the PC12-NSD in the near future so I wanted to know where all of you bought yours from?


When I google the sub I don't get any stores that sell it. Can I only buy it directly from SVS?


Thanx

Yes, all SVS speakers are available from the factory only. That's how they keep their prices reasonable.
 
#103 ·
Just need to know...


If I am in an apartment and have no neighbours beside (corner unit) but neighbours above/below (separated by concrete), is it better to...


A) Get a Forward Firing Box Subwoofer (SVS PB12-NSD)


or


B) Down/Up Firing Cylinder Subwoofer (SVS (PC12-NSD)


I have hardwood floors.


Thanks!
 
#104 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ransac /forum/post/15857308


You lose nothing going with the single RCA from AVR sub out or LFE out to either the left or right low level input on the sub. The sub/LFE channel is mono, so connecting to both won't change the sound. I use a Y to connect to both, but that is just due to having my old sub connected that way and I just removed the old and hooked up the new. The two sides are just summed in the preamp, so it is rumored that you will get a little higher input level from the same output level and that may help with the auto-on feature. Mine has never failed to turn on and that can't be said by everyone.

Right - there is a voltage summer on the inputs (at least on SVS amps), so the SPL increases 6 dB with a Y splitter. This naturally will wake-up the auto-on circuit more quickly/sooner. Of course the gain needs to be reduced by 6 dB to compensate to keep the overall calibration level the same.
 
#105 ·
I know there was a couple of people asking for some pics of the sub in a room so I thought I would post mine. Just got it this week along with my Marantz SR-7001 and I am absolutely loving it! Thsnks for looking.


Roque

 
#106 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen /forum/post/15859945


Right - there is a voltage summer on the inputs (at least on SVS amps), so the SPL increases 6 dB with a Y splitter. This naturally will wake-up the auto-on circuit more quickly/sooner. Of course the gain needs to be reduced by 6 dB to compensate to keep the overall calibration level the same.

I was being facetious with my 'it has been rumored' remark as this has been discussed many, many times here. My question is, why are they summed instead of overlaid? If you were feeding a stereo input, would you really want the combined amplitude of both channels summed to the amps input versus combining the two signals without summing the voltages?
 
#108 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RMA /forum/post/15861485


I know there was a couple of people asking for some pics of the sub in a room so I thought I would post mine. Just got it this week along with my Marantz SR-7001 and I am absolutely loving it! Thsnks for looking.


Roque

Thanks for posting the pictures. The unit reminds me of my old water softener brine tank, only nicer.
 
#109 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by corpfan1 /forum/post/15861799


Any comments on the down/up firing of the PC vs. the PB front firing?


I have hardwood floors and neighbours above and below?


Would this make a difference?


Thanks!

Unlike most down firing subs, the SVS has a bottom plate that the sound wave hits. As long as you have decent floor isolation (the included rubber feet should be sufficient) to reduce any mechanical vibrations, it won't be much different from a front firing sub. Your other problem has to do with the acoustical transfer of the sound wave as it is propagated through the air and will bleed through your walls, ceiling, and floor. This will happen regardless of the driver orientation. Your only solutions are to turn it down, move to a house, or say 'Damn the neighbors' (or neighbours in your case).
 
#110 ·
Ransac,


Thanks for the response.


I am in an apartment and the floors and ceilings and most walls are concrete.


I can hear the person above occasionally if they drop something or are running around (kids). Never have heard person below.


I am trying to decide between the SVS PC12-NSD and the Paradigm DSP3400.


The SVS is about $100 more.


Any suggestions?


I also have a 120G aquarium in the room - a problem at all for this kind of sub?


Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ransac /forum/post/15862385


Unlike most down firing subs, the SVS has a bottom plate that the sound wave hits. As long as you have decent floor isolation (the included rubber feet should be sufficient) to reduce any mechanical vibrations, it won't be much different from a front firing sub. Your other problem has to do with the acoustical transfer of the sound wave as it is propagated through the air and will bleed through your walls, ceiling, and floor. This will happen regardless of the driver orientation. Your only solutions are to turn it down, move to a house, or say 'Damn the neighbors' (or neighbours in your case).
 
#111 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by corpfan1 /forum/post/15862524


Ransac,


Thanks for the response.


I am in an apartment and the floors and ceilings and most walls are concrete.


I can hear the person above occasionally if they drop something or are running around (kids). Never have heard person below.


I am trying to decide between the SVS PC12-NSD and the Paradigm DSP3400.


The SVS is about $100 more.


Any suggestions?


I also have a 120G aquarium in the room - a problem at all for this kind of sub?


Thanks!

The low frequencies are still going to bleed through concrete, but not as bad as with soft walls. In your situation, and capable sub is going to make you listen at reduced levels. So, out of your two, choose your poison. The most neighborly thing to do after you get your sub is to go in your common hall way while playing an action movie or RAP music and hear what your neighbors will hear. Then you can find your upper volume level.


I don't believe there is any problem for the aquarium unless it has weak glass. The fish might not like it, especially if you watch the Finding Nemo 'Darla tapping' scene.
They may actually like the LF. Watch them while playing a movie. If they pull out some lounge chairs and watch the movie with you, they probably like the sound. If they all hide in the castle, then it might be disturbing to them. Or they just don't like the movie.
 
#112 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ransac /forum/post/15862705


The most neighborly thing to do after you get your sub is to go in your common hall way while playing an action movie or RAP music and hear what your neighbors will hear.

I thought the neighborly thing to do was to invite them over to watch the movies so they aren't below you pounding on the floor with broom handles.



Not sure about the fishes. Good question.
 
#113 ·
i just got my dual PC12-NSDs last night. they were packaged very nicely and seemed like they were very well protected. i got them wired up (replacing my previous dual 12 inchers - not even worth mentioning the name) but have not properly calibrated it yet. it was late and i only had a few minutes to play a couple kanye and basstronic tracks. then i popped in kungfu panda and played the prison escape scene and the skadoosh scene.


the music aspect was definitely much more effortless and provided solid umph to midbass. definitely a huge improvement over my other dual 12s.


the movie aspect... i am still undecided. i probably need more time to get adjusted to the new sound and calibrate it properly. the prison escape scene was way better, especially the parts with the chain/rocks scraping along the side of the pit and the tnt explosions were way deeper and shook the house considerably. however, the skadoosh scene sounded completely different and i am not sure if i like it better. it didnt seem any louder, just more vibrations.


again... probably needs more calibration.


i did play some street fighter 4 at medium levels and it felt like i just installed a rumble pack for my living room!!!
 
#114 ·
I think the pc12-nsd is the sub I really want to order. I have a question about the packing. Online specs say the sub is 59 lbs, shipping is $51 so I figured the shipping weight to be between 74-75 lbs. I'm gonna tote this baby back to Japan and will have to pay A LOT in excess baggage fees (>$200) if it's over 70 lbs. Is there any way to take out some of the weight -I know the power cord can be placed in another piece of luggage, the manual also. I read in one forum some subs used to come with a T-shirt. Anything that could translate into a 4 or 5 lb weight loss? I'm also thinking of modifying some of the protective material in the box might be possible. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
 
#115 ·
dannyjl,


aside from the things you mentioned, manual and powercord, there isnt much else that could be removed to reduce weight, other than the protective styrofoam (which is probably best left alone).


not sure if you will be able to remove 5 lbs without sacrificing its durability while transporting.
 
#120 ·
The PC12-NSD was not as easy to blend ito my older Klipsch system as I had hoped. The best setting I used was to set my crossover in the reciever to 40Hz and only allow the sub to fill in at what my mains were not built to reproduce.


After a month of playing music and movies on a daily basis I can say that I feel it was perfect for the room and met all my needs. More sub would be overkill. All the positive things that have been said about this new version are, in fact, true!


I would like to point out one negative thing that has not been mentioned.

The overall weight of this sub is not enough to prevent it from "dancing alone" on a smooth surface floor. At levels at or above 85db with only the 40Hz and lower being fed to it, it will move around the floor till it finds a resting spot againt another piece of furniture or a cable pulls tight restricting its movement. This is only noticeable to any degree while playing music due to the extended amount of time the sub is active.


I have access to 1-1/2 inch steel plate and will have an add-on base plate built to be mounted to the bottom of the orginal base. Using a little elbow grease, a grinder, some paint, and countersunk machine screws from the bottom of the plate up thru the base of the sub it should be enough weight to "hold'er down". As it stands now, it's hard to tell if it's bass or the sub pounding the floor.


Other than that small problem I feel it was the best sub for the price, and would buy it again.


Tim
 
#121 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RG_Uwanna /forum/post/15888696


... I have access to 1-1/2 inch steel plate and will have an add-on base plate built to be mounted to the bottom of the orginal base. Using a little elbow grease, a grinder, some paint, and countersunk machine screws from the bottom of the plate up thru the base of the sub it should be enough weight to "hold'er down". As it stands now, it's hard to tell if it's bass or the sub pounding the floor.
...
I can think of any number of less conspicuous, undestructive and likely more effective alternatives to that.



Tim
 
#122 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OvalNut /forum/post/15888864

I can think of any number of less conspicuous, undestructive and likely more effective alternatives to that.



Tim

I can't hear ya' thinkin'. Maybe I should turn down the volume just a bit till I can.



The only thing destructive will be the drilling of 3 thru holes in the orginal base for the mounting bolts.
 
#123 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RG_Uwanna /forum/post/15888910


... The only thing destructive will be the drilling of 3 thru holes in the orginal base for the mounting bolts.

Well, yea that's exactly the point.


Geez, let's see.....
.... let's just start with these:


1. More robust/better rubber type stick on feet/pads.


2. Cut a circle of anti-skid mat backing, of the type commonly used under area rugs on hardwood floors


3. Auralex Gramma


4. Auralex Subdude


5. Industrial Velcro


6. and of course.... Duct Tape.




Tim
 
#124 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OvalNut /forum/post/15889390


Well, yea that's exactly the point.


Geez, let's see.....
.... let's just start with these:


1. More robust/better rubber type stick on feet/pads.


2. Cut a circle of anti-skid mat backing, of the type commonly used under area rugs on hardwood floors


3. Auralex Gramma


4. Auralex Subdude


5. Industrial Velcro


6. and of course.... Duct Tape.




Tim

Now I hear ya



Few of those options address the problem of the sub actually lifting from the floor. There are not many substitutes for weight. The sub lifting as a reaction of the mass of the driver moving the entire sub in a vertical direction does two things.


1. Affects the accuracy and impact of the sound being produced.

2. Adds additional noises that were never part of the orginal track by "pounding" on the floor physically.


The options you mention would help with the movement of the sub across the floor, but not in the accuracy and impact of the lowest reproduced sounds.


Velcro would not be a good option because I doubt it would add more "hold down" force than the weighted base. Plus, I can see me now trying to remove the velcro from the floor at a later date.


Still considering the Duct tape ,,,, hmmmm



P.S. My front mains, using a single 12" sub\\PR weigh more each than this sub. They don't move at any volume level.

http://www.klipsch.com/products/disc...specifications


Tim
 
#126 ·
Thanks for the replies guys about the packing of the pc12-nsd. I got a memo from Ron and it looks like the online info is not accurate. According to him the shipping weight is 60 lbs. so I'm good to go without the whopping excess weight surcharge - that is until someone talks me into going with the pc12-plus!
 
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