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Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread

186K views 773 replies 202 participants last post by  imaginecomputer 
#1 ·
[Helpful references:


Main threads for the 2006-2007 models (xx731, xx732, xx831):


General: 2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread

xx731: 2007 Mitsubishi WD-57731 and WD-65731 Owner's Thread

xx732: 2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732)

xx831: 2007 Mitsubishi 57” and 65” 831 Owner's Thread [NO PRICE TALK]


Main threads for the 2007-2008 models (xx733, xx734, xx833):


xx733: Official 2007-2008 Mitsubishi WD-**733 DLP

xx734: Official Mitsubishi WD-XX734 Owner's Thread

xx833: Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread ]


I will continuously update this post with my recommended settings and tweaks. There is a FAQ at the end of this post that covers such things as how to make service menu changes.


Be advised that neither my settings, nor anyone else's settings, are necessarily the best for you, for the following reasons:


1. Differences between personal preferences.

2. Differences in lighting conditions

3. Differences from one set to another (especially lamps--yes, a new lamp should mean a new ISF calibration)

4. Differerences between broadcasters, networks, cable companies and satellite services.

5. Differences between set top boxes and between DVD players.


In subsequent posts, I and others provide the original factory settings for the red, green and blue gain parameters in the service menu. Based on the degree of difference observed between the factory settings for RGB gain, it is obvious that the sets vary from each other more than a little (hence requiring substantially different RGB gan parameter values.)

Unfortunately, the optimal settings for brightness, contrast and color intensity depend in no small measure on both the color temperature and the grayscale (both of which are controlled by the RGB gain and RGB bias settings in the service menu.) The inescapable conclusion is that the best user-level settings for one set may differ than those for another, unless both sets have the same grayscale and color temperature.


Absent a professional calibration, the only workable option is to use the same RGB gain settings on all sets that will share the same user-level settings. Although that is far from perfect, as long as the RGB gain values are correct for the set on which they were originally derived, and also happen to be close to the values that are on-average correct for all the sets of the same make and model, it often produces a pretty good result that should at least be acceptable until a professional ISF calibration can be performed (but often does not mean always--and you may not be one of the lucky ones.)

Bottom line: One person's settings should be seen as a starting point that helps others more quickly arrive at settings that work best for them.

Sourcery's WD-xx831 Settings:


The user-level settings I provide below are optimized for my personal preferences and lighting conditions, and for the characteristics of my set's electronics, light engine and lamp. They are also optimized for my current RGB gain parameter values (as set in the service menu, and mostly as recommended by forum member j jnelson2000 and listed below.) In other words, the optimal settings for your set and for your viewing conditions will probably be different, but may not be too far different than the ones below. I provide my preferred settings on the theory that, on average, the typical variation between sets, viewing conditions and viewing preferences are not all that great. But that assumption doesn't always hold.


Update: My set developed the infamous halo ("blooming") problem. For now, that has been fixed by replacing the original light engine with a new one. There are two interesting facts about the new light engine: 1) The set looks better than it ever did, with absolutely inky blacks; and 2) I had to lower the contrast and raise the brightness (and the brightness had to be raised higher than would have ever been good with the original light engine.) The moral of this story should be obvious: There is non-trivial variation between sets of the same year, make and model as to which settings are optimal. The settings offered here may need to be tweaked to get you the best picture on your particular set.

Picture Mode: Natural

[The "picture mode" sets the auto-iris, and I believe it may also change the contrast and/or gamma. The three modes are Natural, Bright and Brilliant. Contrast, brightness and color temperature must be set independently for each picture mode, all other settings are shared among the three picture modes]

Color Temperature: Low
Brightness: 35 (jnelson2000 recommends 31)
Contrast: 48 (jnelson2000 recommends 46)
Deep Field Imager: Off
Color: 31
Tint: 31 (Factory Default)
Video Noise: HD=Low/Medium; SD=Off (this is important)
Sharp Edge: OFF--if it's on, you may get severe artifcating when watching interlaced signals (480i, 1080i.)

Perfect Color: Factory Defaults, except for the following:

..Magenta: 30

..Red: 26

..Green: 39

..Cyan: 38

Perfect Tint: Factory Defaults, exept for the following:

..Magenta: 61

..Yellow: 20

..Green: 63

..Cyan: 43

Service Menu Settings (The procedure for making service menu changes is explained in the FAQ at the end of this post)


6. GGL -1020

7. GRL - 1050

8. GBL - 915


Change log:


2007-10-13T23:07:00-0700:

....Changed contrast from 38 to 48

....Changed color from 27 to 31

2007-06-24T13:44:00-0700:

....Changed Brightness from 34 to 35 (Reason: additional fine-tuning for new light engine)

....Changed color from 29 to 27 (Reason: additional fine-tuning for new light engine)


2007-06-17T15:10:00-0700:

....Changed Contrast from 46 to 32 (Reason: new light engine)

....Changed Brightness from 27 to 34 (Reason: new light engine)

....Changed color from 26 to 29


2006-11-14T17:18:00-0800:

....Changed Contrast from 40 to 46

....Changed Color from 28 to 26

....Changed SharpEdge to off for SD--and added reason why


2006-11-06T22:58:00-0800:

....Changed to jnelson2000's settings (with a few differences, as noted above)

....Changed 6.GGL from 911 to 1020

....Changed 7.GRL from 990 to 1050

....Changed 8.GBL from 798 to 915

....Changed Contrast from 34 to 40 (jnelson2000 recommends 46)

....Changed Color from 20 to 28 (jnelson2000 recommends 31)

....Changed PerfectColor->Magenta from 31 to 30

....Changed PefectColor->Red from 31 to 26

....Changed PerfectColor->Green from 31 to 39

....Changed PerfectColor->Cyan from 31 to 38

....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 37 to 61

....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 31 to 26

....Changed PerfectTint->Yellow from 27 to 20

....Changed PerfectTint->Green from 31 to 63

....Changed PerfectTint->Cyan from 33 to 43


2006-10-20T21:07:00-0700:

....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 34 to 37

....Changed PerfectTint->Yellow from 28 to 27

....Changed PerfectTint->Cyan from 31 to 33

....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 34 to 31



2006-10-14T12:48:00-0700:

....Changed Video Noise to different values for HD and SD

....Changed SharpEdge to different values for HD and SD


2006-10-12T20:45:00-0700:

....Changed brightness from 31-33 to 30-32

....Changed color from 22 to 20

....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 23 to 34

....Changed VideoNoise from Off to Medium


2006-10-10T10:25:00-0700:

....Changed RGB gain parameter values in the service menu to those recommended by JKohn

....Changed brightness from 28-30 to 31-33

....Changed contrast from 40 to 34

....Changed color from 23 to 22

....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 36 to 34

....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 31 to 23

....Changed VideoNoise from Off to Medium


2006-10-08T16:42:00-0700:

....Changed contrast from 44 to 40.


2006-10-08T14:49:00-0700:

....Changed color from 24 to 23.


2006-10-08T12:48:00-0700:

....Changed brightness from 28 to a range, based on lighting conditions.

....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 40 to 36, and PerfectTint->Yellow from 24 to 28. The initial values overcompenstated for the red push.

Methodology:


I use Digital Video Essentials to set brightness, contrast and sharpness.


In the absence of the requisite equipment, I use my own judgement to set color and hue. The DVE color/hue setting procedure apparently depends upon an accurate grayscale/color temperature, which my set does not yet have.


My goals in tweaking the picture settings are as follows:


1. Make the picture look as real and natural as possible. I look at the real world, observe how things really look, and try to make the picture on the TV look like that.


2. Blacks should be black, but details of the picture should not be obscured. The sense of depth should be maximized.


3. Minimize artifacts, pixelation, macroblocking, ringing, noise, white crush and black crush.

Pictures:




FAQ:

Video Input signals:

Connection: {VerticalRes [p | i] frames-per-second}


HDMI: 480i60, 480p60, 720p60, 1080i60, 1080p24, 1080p30, 1080p60

Firewire: 480i60, 480p60, 720p60, 1080i60, 1080p24, 1080p30, 1080p60

DVI-I: 480p60, 600p60, 720p60, 768p60, 1024p60, 1080p24, 1080p30, 1080p60

Component: 480i60, 480p60, 720p60, 1080i60

Video/S-Video: 480i60


HDMI is supported at version 1.2a

Calibration Reports:


Jeff Meier (UMR):


....WD-xx831 (TV belonging to AVS Forum Member Midnite1971):

........ WD-65831 Calibration Report.pdf

........ WD-65831 Initial Tristimulus.pdf

........ WD-65831 Final Tristimulus.pdf


....WD-xx732 (TV belonging to AVS Forum Member Cap'n PreShoot):

........ WD-65732 Calibration Report.pdf

........ WD-65732 Initial Tristimulus.pdf

........ WD-65732 Final Tristimulus.pdf

TV Calibration Articles & Resources:

The Service Menu


Service menu settings are universal across all inputs.

WARNING: Write down all defaults if you are going to change anything. Do not change anything you don't understand. Changing some of the settings may permanently damage your TV, or make it impossible to see any picture at all (so that no one would ever be able to see what was happening on the screen so that they could fix the problem using the service menu.)


According to UMR (Jeff Meier,) who is a professional ISF calibrator, "...in the past if you happened to press PIP while in the SM the memory was hosed and would need to be reset by a factory download. Who knows what little gems are present in this model that can cause your display to go south."


To enter the service menu, press the following keys in sequence on the remote: MENU 2 4 5 7


To see the video test patterns: fast forward, rewind


To scroll through the options, press the VIDEO key.


To change the values, press the UP or DOWN buttons.


To save a change, press the ENTER button.


To exit without saving, just press the EXIT button.
 
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2
#752 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whotony /forum/post/15692287


it's been mentioned before the bulb doesnt reset the hours,

the number shown is hours the tv has been used all bulbs totaled up.


also why is it tweeters fault?

I'm just venting I guess. Tweeter sold me an "open box" "NEW TV" at a slight discount. Now they are out of business. Based on the number of the bulb life, it would have to have run 320 day 24hrs a day!

When my 1st bulb went out after 2 months, they told me they couldn't do any repairs under the warranty I purchased until the Mitsu 1yr warranty expired. Mitsu haggled over the bulb, and finally sent it for me to replace. Bulb went again last month, same song.

Now it sounds like optical engine!? I am concerned it will take an act of Congress to get this fixed soon. The people on the Tweeter service contract paperwork said they never received it from Tweeter yet.

Get a lawyer, and get in line. 7000 hrs!?
 
#753 ·
Not sure if everyone who purchased their sets from Tweeter is aware that Service Net ( http://www.servicenet.com ) has picked up the Tweeter extended warranties now that they've gone belly up.


I've had my light engine replaced 2 times for the blooming issue and thought I was SOL when Tweeter went bankrupt. I called Service Net (800-343-4441) to see if they covered the 5 yr warranty on my 65831 and they did. Looks like I'll be getting a 3rd light engine when I get the call from the local service tech.


This fix seems to last me approx 6 months to a year before I really start to notice and need a new one. After my 5 yr's is up...this thing's going out on the curb.
 
#754 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARS08 /forum/post/16207794


This fix seems to last me approx 6 months to a year before I really start to notice and need a new one. After my 5 yr's is up...this thing's going out on the curb.

Let me know where you live and when it's going to the curb. I'll be there as part of the Keep America Beautiful Campaign and make sure it doesn't litter the curb



Have you checked out the posts about cleaning the lens?
 
#757 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by opus312 /forum/post/16215684


Happen to have a URL for those posts? Thanks!

Check the 2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread for lots of info. Search blooming and lens cleaning. Here are a few links to specific posts I found useful.

Good luck.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post14110641
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post15264195
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post15350722
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post15896325
 
#758 ·
I purchased my 65831 on Sep '06. Pretty much have the same issue you are describing....allready gone through 2 light engines with the latest one already experiencing the blooming issues after about 6 months, on top of that the lamp on this thing seems to last about as long as the light engine, my 3rd lamp blew last weekend.


Got fed-up and rather than calling my extended warranty folks (which are terrible), I got on the phone and called Mitsu and explained them my situation. They seemed genuinely interested in working with me and making me a satisfied customer; even though the TV is out of warranty they sent my local repairman to verify that it is indeed the light engine giving me issues again (which I am 100% sure it is), I should get a call from them early this week with the next steps they are willing to take to resolve my issue. I will post what happens once things get settled.


If you have recurring light engine/lamp issues with this TV model call Mitsu, maybe I got lucky, but they really do seem to want to help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARS08 /forum/post/16207794


Not sure if everyone who purchased their sets from Tweeter is aware that Service Net ( http://www.servicenet.com ) has picked up the Tweeter extended warranties now that they've gone belly up.


I've had my light engine replaced 2 times for the blooming issue and thought I was SOL when Tweeter went bankrupt. I called Service Net (800-343-4441) to see if they covered the 5 yr warranty on my 65831 and they did. Looks like I'll be getting a 3rd light engine when I get the call from the local service tech.


This fix seems to last me approx 6 months to a year before I really start to notice and need a new one. After my 5 yr's is up...this thing's going out on the curb.
 
#759 ·
Hello Everyone if you still monitor this posting.


Previous postings I mentioned that two lamps had burned out at 2300 hours and 2100 or so hours. Had it repaired from Mits with a new ballast (power unit) and they also gave me a new lamp.


Well I am over a year since that repair in Feb/Mar of 2008 and I now have 3,771 hours on the lamp. Working pretty good this far. But I have been taking the lamp out once a month to blow off any dust build up. Just too bad I had the problems with it at the beginning and all the phone calls to Mits. But hats off to Mits they did fix it for me.


Best to all
 
#761 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by bad8 /forum/post/16587468


I have a 65731 and it is 1080P. I am trying to set up my PS3 and my tv won't play it at 1080P it will only do it at 1080i. What is going on please help!

If your PS3 is connected to the Mits via HDMI you shouldn't be having a problem. In the Video Output Settings menu for the PS3 you should be able to select the output format you desire.
 
#762 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by bad8 /forum/post/16587468


I have a 65731 and it is 1080P. I am trying to set up my PS3 and my tv won't play it at 1080P it will only do it at 1080i. What is going on please help!

Yes if the connection is through HDMI there is no problem with our PS3. Now if you use component input I believe that limit is only 1080i.
 
#763 ·
Hi guys, hope I can get a response to this on here as it looks like it's been awhile since anyone has posted to this thread it looks like. I have a WD-73734 and I need to know if there is anyway in the service menu that I can change the size of the screen (IE "stretch or shrink it)? The picture shown is slightly too large for the screen no matter what input is being used. (laptop either HDMI through the receiver or HDMI straight to the TV, PS3 through the receiver, etc...). I have no idea what all of the abbreviations in the service menu stand for or mean and I can't seem to find that info anywhere on the net either. Any help would be much appreciated.


Thanks!
 
#764 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by six862m6 /forum/post/18267902


Hi guys, hope I can get a response to this on here as it looks like it's been awhile since anyone has posted to this thread it looks like. I have a WD-73734 and I need to know if there is anyway in the service menu that I can change the size of the screen (IE "stretch or shrink it)? The picture shown is slightly too large for the screen no matter what input is being used. (laptop either HDMI through the receiver or HDMI straight to the TV, PS3 through the receiver, etc...). I have no idea what all of the abbreviations in the service menu stand for or mean and I can't seem to find that info anywhere on the net either. Any help would be much appreciated.


Thanks!

If it is a HIDEF signal 1080p their is little you can do. But other signals use the format switch on the remote and that will change the picture size. If you have your owners manual or get one from the web site and it should show you some options.


Best of luck
 
#765 ·
Oh No!!! Dead mirror, stuck pixel, or otherwise teensy glaring white spot on my WD-Y657. How annoying.


I tried doing a little looking about, and found both praise and horror stories for "pixel fixer" videos. They all seemed to be aimed at LCD, though.


Is there any verified fixing of DLP stuck/borken mirrors? The set is ~2 years old, and I'm sure it isn't under warrantee any longer. It is clearly a single pixel, you can even faintly see the beam of light behind the face of the TV. kinda interesting, but not so good for watching !
 
#766 ·
I'm adding this link for anyone who stumbles across this thread and is looking to fix the halo effect (I believe this is the same as some refer to as blooming). Videobruce's detailed lens cleaning procedure can be found here. I did this on my WD57732 and it made a world of difference.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148792
 
#767 ·
I'm posting this in a few different threads since they are all pretty old. In the service menu looking at the Overscan alignment, I can only see yellow and cyan completely. Green I can barely see on the sides and not top/bottom and I can't see white or red at all. How do I fix this? It seems I need to shrink my screen some how.


Thanks
 
#770 ·
Just want to note as I reference this thread time to time for settings. I replaced my lamp with a philips and I also did the lens cleaning documented very well by videobruce. I have my mode set to natural, but while watching immortals some of the scenes was very very dark and I couldn't make out anything. I switched it to Brilliant and wow it was great, so much detail that I could never see before. Almost makes me want to go back and watch a lot of movies with dark scenes
.


Anyway, I keep it on natural for normal TV and most movies, because it actually gives me headaches if I leave it on that bright. But for movies with dark scenes I will be switching to Brilliant.
 
#771 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebo51 /forum/post/21767388


Just want to note as I reference this thread time to time for settings. I replaced my lamp with a philips and I also did the lens cleaning documented very well by videobruce. I have my mode set to natural, but while watching immortals some of the scenes was very very dark and I couldn't make out anything. I switched it to Brilliant and wow it was great, so much detail that I could never see before. Almost makes me want to go back and watch a lot of movies with dark scenes
.


Anyway, I keep it on natural for normal TV and most movies, because it actually gives me headaches if I leave it on that bright. But for movies with dark scenes I will be switching to Brilliant.

Try adjusting the Brightness control instead of switching to Brilliant. The Brightness control sets the level at which the darkest objects become visible.
 
#772 ·
I got a notice in the mail yesterday concerning several models of this TV.


There has been a decision in a class-action lawsuit concerning capacitors and lamp problems. You can look up Civil Action No. 3:09-cv-01899 (RNC) or check this link http://settlement.mdea.com/ to see if your model qualifies.


If you have one of these models, this could be good news for you.


For the capacitor problem: (V26 or V30 chassis)

Option 1: You can receive a repair of your television with no charge for parts and labor.

Option 2: You have the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at the dealer cost. Mitsubishi will ship the new television to you and will take your previous Mitsubishi television away, as required by the settlement.


For the models with the lamp problem: (V33 or V34 chassis)

If you own or have owned any of the models listed under the V33 or V34 chassis, from Table 1, that has not already received a free new mesh design lamp from Mitsubishi and has experienced a failure of the original lamp between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011, you are eligible to receive a free, new mesh design, replacement lamp. This new lamp will be warranted for three (3) months from the date it was shipped to you from Mitsubishi.
 
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