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#1 ·
FOR GENERAL FAQ AND DENON SETUP HELP, PLEASE VISIT:

http://batpigworld.com/



AVR 1909 (aka 789) vs AVR 1910 (aka 790)


Comparison of 1909 vs 1910 from Denon website:
http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDeta...mageField.y=24


1909 rear panel photo:
http://www.usa.denon.com/AVR1909_Large_Back.jpg


1910 rear panel photo:
http://www.usa.denon.com/AVR1910_Large_Back.jpg


Straight to the point:


- 1910 gets an extra HDMI input (4 vs 3), but drops some legacy inputs (only 2 component video, and only 1 s-video which can ONLY be used with Denon ipod dock control as per NOTE on pg 9 of manual)


- 1910 gets new ABT video processor which allows for HDMI > HDMI scaling up to 1080p (pg 34 of manual)... but still no OSD overlay.


- 1910 weighs 1.8 lbs less (23.6 vs 25.4)... but has identical power specs (90W x 7 @ 0.08% THD) so judgement withheld for now as to whether the 1910 has less "real" power.


- 1910 gets Dolby PLIIz with the ability to reassign the SURR.BACK to FRONT HEIGHT for alternative 7.1 setup.



That's about it! They are almost identical in most other respects.


Other relatively minor functional differences:


1. The new video processor apparently also allows the 1910 to handle 1080p component > HDMI conversion (pg 9 of the manual no longer has a footnote specifying this restriction, and even specifically references 1080p component coming out at 1080p). However, the OSD looks basically the same and the overlay restrictions (only on s-vid / composite) are unchanged; apparently you need to step up to 2310/890 level for a real GUI w/ overlay.


2. There are now SEVEN discrete video names to which you can assign inputs: DVD, HDP, TV, CBL/SAT, VCR, DVR, V-AUX (which shares front panel inputs). This means you can hook up more devices with discrete name access (no need to "stack" inputs) and actually use all six hi-def inputs (4 HDMI + 2 component) without needing to borrow the "V-AUX" name from the front panel inputs. Note, however, that there is now only one "audio only" input name (currently "CD" is the only audio only input name).


3. Dynamic EQ gets a "Reference Level Offset" which can be accessed in Surround Parameters; note that, functionally, it is identical to adjusting the "Source Level" for an input, but the easy access in "Surround Parameters" menu means you can make "bass taming" tweaks on the fly more easily.


4. HDMI Control gets a "Standby Source" setting (see pg 28) which allows you to specify which HDMI input is "passed through" to your TV. No need to remember to switch inputs before you power down!


5. The evil two-sided flip-door remote lives on
However, there is now a discrete "Source Select" button on the front (the big button under the D-Pad, used to be the "Restorer" button) which cycles through your inputs (so you don't have to go to the hidden flip door to select a source that didn't make the cut for the front panel).


6. Direct mode "purists" rejoice! You no longer have the option to use Audyssey at all with any Direct mode (regular, pure, or multich) according to the chart on pg 58 of the 1910 manual.


7. The "LPF for LFE" setting has moved from the "Crossover Freq" menu and now lives in the "Bass Setting" menu (pg 26 of manual). This should reduce some confusion (e.g. it's not a crossover!) although the wording in the Denon manual makes it sound like it's an HPF for the subwoofer, and not just the LFE channel.


8. MANUAL EQ adjustment has moved into the "Surround Parameter" menu so it can be accessed on-the-fly more easily


9. The Volume Control can now be optionally set to "absolute" or "relative" value (see pg 30 of manual). So anyone who hates the "negative numbers" style of volume, you can set it to go from 0 to 99!


10. There is a "Zone Rename" function (pg 31) so you can rename "Zone 2" to say "Patio" or whatever.


11. They have apparently removed the HDMI options for "Color Space" and "RGB Range". Ostensibly these were just confusing people and it is now essentially stuck in "auto" mode for color space.


12. New, streamlined front panel layout (fewer buttons, menu/d-pad/return button cluster moves to the middle)



------------------------------------


OTHER FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS


Q. What is the difference between the three-digit models (e.g. AVR 790) and the four-digit models (e.g. AVR 1910)?


A: Essentially, NOTHING. Denon puts out two parallel receiver lineups, with four-digit and three-digit model numbers. The four-digit models are generally sold by high end stereo shops and custom installers, and the three-digit models are the "consumer" version sold in retail outlets like Circuit City and Fry's.


However, there is ZERO difference in terms of power, specs, sound quality, build quality, etc. between the two lines. Denon has been doing this for years, it is exactly analagous to the Yamaha HTR and RX-V parallel receiver lines.


There will usually be one or two minor differences to differentiate the three-digit and four-digit models. There is typically a slight cosmetic difference between the two lines, and different remotes.


In the specific case of the 1910 vs. 790, the only differences (besides the cosmetics) is:


1. the 1910 has A/B speaker switching, whereas the 790 only has "A" front speakers

2. the 1910 adds a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2
In all other respects, the 1910 and 790 are IDENTICAL.


For more info, please see the Denon Model Numbers page at batpigworld:
http://batpigworld.com/models.html


Q. What do I gain from stepping up to the 1910/790, as opposed to just buying the lower-priced AVR 1610/590 model?


A: The 1610 (aka 590) is a very full-featured entry level model that will be sufficient for most people. It has 3 HDMI inputs, full HD audio decoding, analog > digital video conversion (so you can run one HDMI cable to your TV for all sources), and the full "Audyssey suite" of MultEQ + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume. The 1910 / 790 is very similar and built on the same platform / chassis. They have similar amp sections, identical processing and DAC's, etc.


The following are the "step up" features you gain from going to 1910 (aka 790):


1. The 1910 is a full 7.1 receiver. The 1610/590 is a 5.1 receiver (5 amps built in) but can be expanded to 7.1 using the "Rear/Height" pre-outs to add an external amplifier. You have your choice of 7.1 expansion methods, either PLIIx (standard 7.1 with 2 "rear" channels) or PLIIz (5.1 + 2 "height" channels).


2. The 1910 has a 4th HDMI input, and adds an extra coaxial digital audio input


3. The 1910 is spec'd for more power, 90W x 7


4. The 1910 has full video scaling, of both analog and digital video, up to 1080p, and these video settings are adjustable by input. The 1610 has no scaling, and no adjustable settings; it simply automatically converts analog video to digital, and deinterlaces 480i > 480p when doing so. Everything else goes out at the same resolution it came in.


5. The 1910 has 2-zone/2-source capability (no multizone on 1610), and the 1910 (not 790, see above) has a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2.


6. The 1910 has extra inputs: a Sirius input jack, a "CD" analog input, and 7.1 multichannel analog inputs


7. The 1910 has two switched power outlets on the back


Q. What do I gain from stepping up to the 2310/890 model?


A: The 2310/890 model's major features are:


1. A 5th HDMI input


2. A slightly better amp section


3. A dedicate Phono input with pre-amp


4. usable S-video inputs (i.e. not just for the Denon ipod dock) on the rear, and front panel optical / s-video input


5. high-end ABT-2010 video processor with full color GUI, overlay over HDMI, HDMI>HDMI processing, and picture controls with brightness/contrast/hue/saturation and noise reduction settings which are memorized by input (allowing for independent source calibration even when running one HDMI cable to TV)


6. the 2310CI model (not the 890) will also include an RS-232 port, second smaller Zone 2 remote, and a 12V trigger output for custom integration ("CI") functionality.
 
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1
#3,587 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind /forum/post/17762820


Easiest is this: turn DynEQ off (no red, no green).

I thought DynEQ was a good thing?
 
#3,588 ·
yes, but it is intended primarily for movies which are mixed at a specific reference level. Video games are totally different, and the surrounds often have content which is intended to be just as loud as the fronts, which is something that would never really happen with movies/TV shows. Dyn EQ is boosting the surrounds as the volume drops, but this is not something which is necessary (and often detrimental) in video games which are mixed to totally different standards.


Your complaint is a very common one with Dyn EQ + video games. For example, in a first-person type game, find a point-source of audio and then spin your character around and hear the sound pan around all your speakers. With Dyn EQ engaged, you will hear the volume level clearly jump as the sound pans to the surrounds. Now turn Dyn EQ off and re-do the "spin", and you will hear the levels stay consistent.


As a first step though, you can try lowering the "Dynamic EQ reference level offset" to 10 or even 15dB (found under Parameters > Audyssey settings). This will lessen the "aggressiveness" of the boost and may even things out without having to shut off Dyn EQ completely.


This Offset setting allows you to tailor Dyn EQ to specific sources which may not be mixed at film reference levels. It should be left at 0 for movies (DVD, Blu-ray, HD DVD), but other sources may need some tweaking -- for example I have my cable box offset by 10dB (to reduce boominess in certain programming) and my music sources offset by 10dB also (since music is usually mixed at louder levels than films).
 
#3,589 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrady3324 /forum/post/17762849


I thought DynEQ was a good thing?

Yes it is, but the more you turn the vol down the more it boosts the surrounds bass and highs to compensate, in order to create the reference surround sound "bubble". That can be distracting with some games to some gamers, or so I'm told. So just turn it off and see if you like it. If you decide you want DynEQ but just want the surrounds attenuated for the gaming input, then see OM p50. Hit Enter button on remote scrolling till each surround shows, then use cursor arrow to trim it down to taste. Personal Memory Plus should retain that and automatically do this for you each time you select that input/surround mode.


or what bp said too, I forgot that option!
 
#3,590 ·
All,


I have the 1910 and I have simply not been able to get it to sound like I want it to. Before returning it in the next day or so, I thought I'd ask you guys first. Mostly I want it for playing music, and occasionally for movies/tv audio. Note that I tried a comprable Yamaha av receiver and it was even worse than this denon in terms of low/high end. I don't care about crossovers, surround channels, or the ten million other settings and things here. Just some simple tone control would be nice.


I had to replace an old JVC amp. That amp had issues but sound quality was not one of them. It was a stereo amp with a/b speakers and one set of rear surrounds. Nice and simple. It had something on it that amps always used to have called "loudness" (extra emphasis at the very lowest and highest ends). I'm trying to get that out of the denon with NO luck. I'm using the same speakers now as I was using with the JVC. So I know things can sound like I want them to.


I've spent hours with this denon trying every setting imaginable and I can not get much bass out of it. Large speakers, small speakers, sub on, sub off, auto tone, manual eq, channel volume and on and on and on. I don't really care if the sub woofer works or not, what I need primarily is ALL the bass out of the a and b speakers. It simply sounds awful now: thin and flat. It's a little better cranked up, but not much. And I usually don't listen to music cranked up. I've boosted the manual eq on the bass all the way up. It barely does anything. I need to be able to get too much bass, and then back it off as needed.


So, if any of you have some suggestions to boost the bass WAY WAY UP, I'd appreciate them. Maybe I need to be looking for a different series of amps, ones that are more "old school" than these newer things meant for movies and surround. If that's the case let me know what you'd recommend.


Stan
 
#3,591 ·
Like many, I'm new to all this myself. My first question is even more basic.


How do I access the hdmi control function? On my remote, the ch level and hdmi control are the same button and when pressed, it gives me info on the speakers (FL,FR,etc) I would like to be able to watch tv without the receiver on all the time.


I have:


Att uverse (Motorola box)

Samsung DLP (bought last year)

Sony Blu ray player

Denon 1910


I have an hdmi cable from uverse to hdmi 1 on the receiver and

hdmi cable from blu ray to hdmi 2.


input assign is HDP - Hdmi 1

DVD - HDMI 2
 
#3,592 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by standay /forum/post/17763196

I don't care about crossovers, surround channels, or the ten million other settings and things here. Just some simple tone control would be nice.Stan

There is a bass tone control, as well as manual multiband EQ. But if you want great SQ you have to care a little about those things. It's not that hard, just run autosetup and turn on DynEQ.
 
#3,593 ·
Hello again. I have two questions regarding the 790:


1. I just got the surround and center channel, so I have a 5.1 system now. Before I used to listen to music in pure direct as I has only the front speakers. Now I use 5 channel stereo mode, but I´m not sure if this equals to pure mode or not. Can I set pure direct and listening in all channels? The manual says that these speakers are selectable in pure direct depending on speaker settings but can´t find the way to activate them.


2. I have a velodyne DLS400R. Velodyne recommends to set the volume in the sub low, and adjust the volume high in the receiver. But when I run audyssey, the recommendation is to set the volume at 12 o´clock and it adjust the level on the receiver. What is the best thing to do, to leave it as audyssey sets it, or to set a higher volume at the AVR and low in the sub volume control?


Thanks
 
#3,594 ·
Hello again. I have two questions regarding the 790:


1. I just got the surround and center channel, so I have a 5.1 system now. Before I used to listen to music in pure direct as I has only the front speakers. Now I use 5 channel stereo mode, but I´m not sure if this equals to pure mode or not. Can I set pure direct and listening in all channels? The manual says that these speakers are selectable in pure direct depending on speaker settings but can´t find the way to activate them.


2. I have a velodyne DLS400R. Velodyne recommends to set the volume in the sub low, and adjust the volume high in the receiver. But when I run audyssey, the recommendation is to set the volume at 12 o´clock and it adjust the level on the receiver. What is the best thing to do, to leave it as audyssey sets it, or to set a higher volume at the AVR and low in the sub volume control?


Thanks
 
#3,595 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dflr001 /forum/post/17763549


...

2. I have a velodyne DLS400R. Velodyne recommends to set the volume in the sub low, and adjust the volume high in the receiver. But when I run audyssey, the recommendation is to set the volume at 12 o´clock and it adjust the level on the receiver. What is the best thing to do, to leave it as audyssey sets it, or to set a higher volume at the AVR and low in the sub volume control?

...

The 2nd question is easier. The Audyssey recommendation of 12 o'clock is generic. If Velodyne suggests a lower starting point, that's fine. Hsu's advice for my sub was 9:00, and that worked well. The only goal is to find a sub setting such that the sub trim after you run Audyssey is not too high (+12dB) and not too low (-12dB). Anything in between is pretty much the same. If you are concerned, you can stop after measuring just the first point, let Audyssey calculate the trim, and verify it is in range, before re-running Audyssey setup over all six points. If you have already run Audyssey and the sub level is between -12dB and +12dB, you're fine.
 
#3,596 ·
Wow. I just finished reading this thread. That's right, all 120 pages. Do I get a medal? Anyway, I've had the 1910 for several months now and setup went fine thanks to batpig's guide. I recently purchased a PS3 slim and hooked it up using HDMI. I set it to bitstream and that is working just fine for me, bit I've noticed the following behaviour: when I pop in a bluray disc and it starts up, I hear a loud pop sound from all speakers. It sounds kind of like I plugged in an audio cable while the receiver was turned on. If I turn down the volume, the pop will get quieter, so I think the sound is actually being produced by the PS3. I think what is happening is that the pop is occuring when the PS3 is switching from PCM to bitstream, but I can't imagine this is how it was meant to operate. Note, this only occurs when I put in a movie; games don't cause it. If I stop playing a game and start a movie, it pops every time. If I turn it on and then insert a movie without playing a game, it pops. I haven't had a chance to plug the hdmi cable directly into the TV to see if that exhibits the same behaviour, but as I need to go through the receiver for HD audio, that is not an acceptable workaround. I know I could turn off bitstreaming but I'm addicted to that little blue light. Anyone else notice this? I've searched google as well as avs but couldn't find anything that sounded similar?
 
#3,597 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hp0924 /forum/post/17763294



How do I access the hdmi control function? On my remote, the ch level and hdmi control are the same button and when pressed, it gives me info on the speakers (FL,FR,etc) I would like to be able to watch tv without the receiver on all the time.

You know .. I don't recall anyone ever actually bringing that button up to use it for for the HDMI Control function. I would guess it works when the AVR is in Standby (turning HDMI Control ON/OFF). If you look at your Owner's manual (p. 28), you'll see you need to set HDMI Control to ON and the Standby Source to HDMI1 (in your case as that is where you have the ATT box connected). Then when you place the AVR into Standby, the ATT box should pass the audio and video through to the TV. Make sure any HDMI-CEC feature in the TV is turned OFF.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dflr001 /forum/post/17763547


Hello again. I have two questions regarding the 790:


1. I just got the surround and center channel, so I have a 5.1 system now. Before I used to listen to music in pure direct as I has only the front speakers. Now I use 5 channel stereo mode, but I´m not sure if this equals to pure mode or not. Can I set pure direct and listening in all channels? The manual says that these speakers are selectable in pure direct depending on speaker settings but can´t find the way to activate them.

If you haven't already, you need to run AUTO SETUP again. Before you listened to Pure Direct in STEREO mode. Now you want to listen to it in MULT CH mode (ie all channels) which you can do when receiving a 5.1 source signal. 5-CH STEREO is one of Denon's simulation surround modes and is NOT Pure Direct. Normally it's advised to avoid the Denon surround modes, rather just use the STANDARD (STD) surround mode Dolby Digital / DD PLII. Then simply press the PURE direct button when you want to listen in that mode.
 
#3,598 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie /forum/post/17763840


You know .. I don't recall anyone ever actually bringing that button up to use it for for the HDMI Control function. I would guess it works when the AVR is in Standby (turning HDMI Control ON/OFF). If you look at your Owner's manual (p. 28), you'll see you need to set HDMI Control to ON and the Standby Source to HDMI1 (in your case as that is where you have the ATT box connected). Then when you place the AVR into Standby, the ATT box should pass the audio and video through to the TV. Make sure any HDMI-CEC feature in the TV is turned OFF.





If you haven't already, you need to run AUTO SETUP again. Before you listened to Pure Direct in STEREO mode. Now you want to listen to it in MULT CH mode (ie all channels) which you can do when receiving a 5.1 source signal. 5-CH STEREO is one of Denon's simulation surround modes and is NOT Pure Direct. Normally it's advised to avoid the Denon surround modes, rather just use the STANDARD (STD) surround mode Dolby Digital / DD PLII. Then simply press the PURE direct button when you want to listen in that mode.

Thanks.

i see your point, when the input signal is multichannel I can run pure direct in all the channels, however, in my case I think i didn´t make my point clear. I meant stereo sources in pure mode using all the channels, like 5 channel stereo mode does, but in pure direct
 
#3,600 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dflr001 /forum/post/17763948


Thanks.

i see your point, when the input signal is multichannel I can run pure direct in all the channels, however, in my case I think i didn´t make my point clear. I meant stereo sources in pure mode using all the channels, like 5 channel stereo mode does, but in pure direct

yes, as JD says processing 2-channels to 5.1 channels is the OPPOSITE of "pure" audio!



PURE means "play it exactly as it was intended", no processing at all. That means 2-channels in = 2 channels out.


If you had a multich music source (like SACD) then running in "PURE DIRECT" would give you multich audio. But again, PURE will never process new channels, only play what is already there.
 
#3,601 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by standay /forum/post/17763196


So, if any of you have some suggestions to boost the bass WAY WAY UP, I'd appreciate them. Maybe I need to be looking for a different series of amps, ones that are more "old school" than these newer things meant for movies and surround. If that's the case let me know what you'd recommend.

Stan -- it would be very helpful if you actually told us what SPEAKERS you have! This is a pretty relevant piece of information to leave out when you are trying to understand what is happening with the sound quality.


Quote:
It had something on it that amps always used to have called "loudness" (extra emphasis at the very lowest and highest ends). I'm trying to get that out of the denon with NO luck.

LOUDNESS has been replaced by the superior DYNAMIC EQ, which does the same thing but is able to intelligently compensate the amount of bass depending on your absolute loudness level. It is based on the same exact principle as the old "loudness" function but now has the advantage of decades of additional auditory research and processing technology developed at Audyssey's labs at USC.


So, big question: have you run Audyssey???
 
#3,602 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig /forum/post/17764177


Stan -- it would be very helpful if you actually told us what SPEAKERS you have!

Ah, yes. The main ones are Altec Lansing Voice of the Theater. The big gray monsters. The others are a medium sized JBL. Both the Altecs and the JBLs use only a horn and a woofer in each enclosure and both are from the late 70s. The JBLs are good, but the Altecs are much better. I'm not trying to match them, I just prefer extra low/high eq overall.

Quote:
LOUDNESS has been replaced by the superior DYNAMIC EQ, which does the same thing but is able to intelligently compensate the amount of bass depending on your absolute loudness level. It is based on the same exact principle as the old "loudness" function but now has the advantage of decades of additional auditory research and processing technology developed at Audyssey's labs at USC.

OK, that's good info, thanks.

Quote:
So, big question: have you run Audyssey???

No, I haven't. I usually prefer manual control but I'll give it a try. I did mess with the manual eq some more and found I can get closer to the sound I want by reducing the center freqs. Still not as "warm" as I'd like but closer.


Thanks for the suggestion.


Stan
 
#3,603 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie /forum/post/17763840


You know .. I don't recall anyone ever actually bringing that button up to use it for for the HDMI Control function. I would guess it works when the AVR is in Standby (turning HDMI Control ON/OFF). If you look at your Owner's manual (p. 28), you'll see you need to set HDMI Control to ON and the Standby Source to HDMI1 (in your case as that is where you have the ATT box connected). Then when you place the AVR into Standby, the ATT box should pass the audio and video through to the TV. Make sure any HDMI-CEC feature in the TV is turned OFF.

Thanks JD. It almost works. When I turn the avr off (I guess that's standby, left off button) the tv will now stay on and sound comes from the tv, which is good. But, if I have everything off and use the uverse remote to turn on the tv, it cant find a siginal until I turn the receiver on.

HDMI control = On

Standby source = HDMI1

PoweroffCtrl = OFF

Make sure any HDMI-CEC feature in the TV is turned OFF


I dont know what that means.
 
#3,605 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by standay /forum/post/17764316


Ah, yes. The main ones are Altec Lansing Voice of the Theater. The big gray monsters. The others are a medium sized JBL. Both the Altecs and the JBLs use only a horn and a woofer in each enclosure and both are from the late 70s. The JBLs are good, but the Altecs are much better. I'm not trying to match them, I just prefer extra low/high eq overall.

Stan - are you running both speakers in an A+B configuration (i.e. "quadraphonic")? And do you have a subwoofer or any other speakers? Or strictly a 2-channel setup (4 speakers on 2 channels)?


The one issue with running A+B together (if I am assuming correctly that is what you are doing) is that modern amps do not have the "balls" of some older amps, and older speakers tend not to be as efficient and easy-to-drive as modern speakers. I don't know about your speakers specifically but this may be an issue trying to run all four speakers off two amps.


It you are running this A+B setup, I would suggest you hook up the "B" speakers to the SURR.BACK speaker terminals (not the "B" speaker terminals) which can be reassigned to power the front channels, so you will have four amps for four speakers. At the Audyssey setup screen set AMP ASSIGN to "FRONT B BI-AMP" and set the Front Speaker setting to "A+B", and then it will equalize the two speakers summed response together and you will have more power/headroom available with one amp per speaker.
 
#3,608 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig /forum/post/17764435


Stan - are you running both speakers in an A+B configuration (i.e. "quadraphonic")? And do you have a subwoofer or any other speakers? Or strictly a 2-channel setup (4 speakers on 2 channels)?

Den: JBLs as "A" spkrs; + 2 small Jensen rear surrounds + 1 small subwoofer

Front Room: Altecs as "B" spkrs


Not "quad" as I remember that term, but 2 separate listening areas: room 1 and room 2. Room 1 has the TV, surround and the SW. Room 2 is just for music, no TV or other requirements in there, just simple stereo 2-spkr listening.

Quote:
The one issue with running A+B together (if I am assuming correctly that is what you are doing) is that modern amps do not have the "balls" of some older amps, and older speakers tend not to be as efficient and easy-to-drive as modern speakers. I don't know about your speakers specifically but this may be an issue trying to run all four speakers off two amps.

Ouput levels do not seem to be a problem. The Altecs are very efficient, JBLs less so. So there is a bit of an imbalance in terms of perceived tone and volume when walking from one room to the other, but that's not a problem in the way we use it. It's the overall sound "color," mostly low-end freqs on both A and B spkrs that is really anemic (at least as compared to the JVC amp and my ears).

Quote:
It you are running this A+B setup, I would suggest you hook up the "B" speakers to the SURR.BACK speaker terminals (not the "B" speaker terminals) which can be reassigned to power the front channels, so you will have four amps for four speakers. At the Audyssey setup screen set AMP ASSIGN to "FRONT B BI-AMP" and set the Front Speaker setting to "A+B", and then it will equalize the two speakers summed response together and you will have more power/headroom available with one amp per speaker.

Yes, it's running as A+B. I can try what you suggest but first I just want to see if I can get the sound eq straightened out by running the Audyssey thing first. I don't want to introduce too many variables at once.


Stan
 
#3,609 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpalsm /forum/post/17761072

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mit Man /forum/post/17760874


I'm interested in this receiver because I've heard good things about its video processing, but as a competitive gamer who requires minimal input lag, I was wondering if anyone has done any proper input lag tests when upscaling 480p or 480i sources to a 1080p output.


I'm more concerned about 480p. My current Sharp Aquos SE94U does a pretty good job of upscaling with minimal input lag, but it isn't quite good enough. When I upgrade to a real sound system with a real receiver and speakers, I'd like for it to be great at upscaling and to simply pass a 1080p signal to my monitor, with very minimal input lag (less than my monitor's).


Anyhow, just wondering if anyone has done any serious input lag tests when upscaling through this Denon 790. If it can get the job done, it'll seal the deal with me and this receiver

Isn't the above described phenomenon what Lip Sync technology in receivers is supposed to combat? I know my AVR254 has Lip Sync but I've never had to use it, I don't upscale with my receiver, I use my laptop.

I would assume a "Lip Sync" technology would merely delay the audio long enough to match how long it takes to upscale the video. This is exactly the kind of thing that produces input lag, however. You press a button, and some milliseconds later, after the video has been upscaled from the source, you see the reaction. Looking to have an instantaneous reaction, which requires some sophisticated/powerful upscaling technology.


If I find that there aren't many receivers that focus on this sort of thing, I'll probably look into something like the DVDO Edge to process all video, and use a receiver strictly for sound. Although it would be infinitely more convenient to have it all done in one receiver.
 
#3,610 ·
Dynamic Volume? Yes or No?


I like that it reduces the impact of the commercial volume differential, but I'm also finding it muffles some of the effects that I "enjoy" (my home theater is 2 stories from my kid)... Anyone else find the same thing?


I actually re-ran Audyssey last night using a borrowed tripod and found one of my speakers out of phase. I thought, this can't be true, I just wired them. Sure enough, I'd reversed the red/black on my center channel. Ha!
 
#3,611 ·
Dynamic Volume should be used when you are fiddling with volume control all the time. One example is the transition from programming to commercials. Another is when you turn up the volume on the movie to hear the dialogue, then have to scramble to turn it down because the explosions start and blow you away.


There is no "right or wrong", it depends on what works for you in your listening room.


Some people have large rooms with nice speakers and want to let 'er rip with no restraint on dynamic range. No need for Dyn. Volume then. In my setup, as an alternate example, I live in a townhouse with a shared wall and thin floors, so I tend to use Dynamic Volume 100% of the time (except for with music) with movies, TV, and video games, otherwise I am jumping for the volume control to head off the complaints from the wife!


For example, if I tried to watch a modern action flick with the wife without Dyn Vol on, she would be yelling at me constantly and I would be hogging the remote, tweaking the volume up to hear dialogue and then quickly tapping it down when the action start. But with Dyn Vol on the "Evening" setting, I can watch an entire movie with the wife without touching the volume once!! That, my friend, is a miracle.


Note that there are three levels of "strength" for Dyn. Volume and the default level (midnight) is the strongest mode, which is probably why you found that it sounds muffled. Try setting it to the "Evening" setting which is much more moderate. Midnight is only really needed in extreme (e.g. late at night and don't want to wake the kids) situations.
 
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