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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999

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#3,005 ·
I saw a guide on relay wiring on http://ovo.ca/wiring/wiring.html and had some specific question regarding applying this technique to using a fan for 4000U. In particular, 4000U has a 12V trigger out (100mA) with a 1/8 monaural jack. I want to connect this a relay that will control a computer fan (12V 150mA) when the projector is on. I have a 12V 150mA wall wart (which works fine when connected to the fan).

Based on Fig 1 from the Website referenced above, would I do the following:

1) Connect the (+) red wire from the wall wart to 30 (is this labeled as COM on the relay?).

2) Connect the 1/8 monaural jack to the projector; strip the opposite end and connect (+) end to 86 and (-) end to 85; 86 and 85 is the coil on a relay.

3) Connect the (+) red wire from the fan to 87 (labeled NO on relay?; I guess the figure isn't a 5pin, which would have NC, which would be the default connection to the switch w/o input from trigger) and (-) black wire from the fan to the (-) black wire from the wall wart.

4) Optional: Insert a greater than 150mA fuse between (+) red wire from the wall wart and 30.

5) Optional: If I want to connect 2 12V 150mA fans, repeat #3? Do I need a wall wart with 300mA output, that would require a ‘stronger’ fuse, since the fans are in parallel circuit?


additional questions: there are so many different types of relays. Do I get a 12V 30mA 5 pin (SPDT) relay or do I need one with higher amp, say 1A?


Here's another example for 4 pin:
http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html


4pin relay (SPST)?

connect (+) from wall wart to #3 and (-) or ground from wall wart to #2.

connect (+) from fan to #5; connect (-) from fan to #2 also?

connect (+) from 12V trigger to #1. Is there only 1 wire in a 1/8 wire?
 
#3,006 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by grubadub /forum/post/17858485


this brings up a question for me. i am considering going w/ a projector but know very little about them so i'm on a steep learning curve. given Big Picture's situation, could he zoom down to 100" while watching sd dvd's? i'm sure that's not a great solution but just want to know if it's doable w/ this projector.

" i am considering going w/ a projector but know very little about them so i'm on a steep learning curve.."

*******

Reading these threads are quite helpful but can also send you out into the "weeds". If you have a "space" and decided on screen size/ratio...the set-up is straight forward. Mine is set-up in an apt. with so-so light control and it's great.


Steve
 
#3,007 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 501transpo /forum/post/17863310


Reading these threads are quite helpful but can also send you out into the "weeds".

Steve

Boy, ain't THAT the truth.
 
#3,008 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 501transpo /forum/post/17863310


" i am considering going w/ a projector but know very little about them so i'm on a steep learning curve.."

*******

Reading these threads are quite helpful but can also send you out into the "weeds". If you have a "space" and decided on screen size/ratio...the set-up is straight forward. Mine is set-up in an apt. with so-so light control and it's great.


Steve

"Reading these threads are quite helpful..."


WTF!!! (need edit function) "can be quite helpful.."


steve
 
#3,010 ·
I thought you got your point across just fine without the edit. Close enough for AVS work.
 
#3,011 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by qlee72 /forum/post/17863099


I saw a guide on relay wiring on http://ovo.ca/wiring/wiring.html and had some specific question regarding applying this technique to using a fan for 4000U. In particular, 4000U has a 12V trigger out (100mA) with a 1/8 monaural jack. I want to connect this a relay that will control a computer fan (12V 150mA) when the projector is on. I have a 12V 150mA wall wart (which works fine when connected to the fan).

Based on Fig 1 from the Website referenced above, would I do the following:

1) Connect the (+) red wire from the wall wart to 30 (is this labeled as COM on the relay?).

2) Connect the 1/8 monaural jack to the projector; strip the opposite end and connect (+) end to 86 and (-) end to 85; 86 and 85 is the coil on a relay.

3) Connect the (+) red wire from the fan to 87 (labeled NO on relay?; I guess the figure isn't a 5pin, which would have NC, which would be the default connection to the switch w/o input from trigger) and (-) black wire from the fan to the (-) black wire from the wall wart.

4) Optional: Insert a greater than 150mA fuse between (+) red wire from the wall wart and 30.

5) Optional: If I want to connect 2 12V 150mA fans, repeat #3? Do I need a wall wart with 300mA output, that would require a ‘stronger’ fuse, since the fans are in parallel circuit?


additional questions: there are so many different types of relays. Do I get a 12V 30mA 5 pin (SPDT) relay or do I need one with higher amp, say 1A?


Here's another example for 4 pin:
http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html


4pin relay (SPST)?

connect (+) from wall wart to #3 and (-) or ground from wall wart to #2.

connect (+) from fan to #5; connect (-) from fan to #2 also?

connect (+) from 12V trigger to #1. Is there only 1 wire in a 1/8 wire?

The trigger is two wires, you want a latching relay that will stay closed or open after being triggered. But like I said, I'm not really a hardware person, please don't rely on my circuit advice.


I feel like I may have started you down this path, but after seeing your photos, I really don't think fans are necessary.


Would it be possible to cut a rectangular opening in the bottom shelf, at the very back, as wide as the projector and about 2" deep? You could use black wire mesh to cover the opening. That should provide plenty of cool air.


I once added ventilation to a cabinet by cutting two openings and inserting two of these:
http://www.staples.com/Staples-Black...product_385741
 
#3,012 ·
#3,013 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield /forum/post/17863622


The trigger is two wires, you want a latching relay that will stay open. But like I said, I'm not really a hardware person, please don't rely on my circuit advice.


I feel like I may have started you down this path, but after seeing your photos, I really don't think fans are necessary.


Would it be possible to cut a rectangular opening in the bottom shelf, at the very back, as wide as the projector and about 2" deep? You could use black wire mesh to cover the opening. That should provide plenty of cool air.


I once added ventilation to a cabinet by cutting two openings and inserting two of these:
http://www.staples.com/Staples-Black...product_385741


I just wanted the details to all the options, in case I had to put one in. For now, I can mount a surge protector strip to the side wall and connect the fan to it using wall wart (use the strip on/off switch). Having a trigger would have automated the on/off and eliminated the bulky strip.
If it still heats up, then I'll go with the hole option.
 
#3,015 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell /forum/post/17863765


I have spent some time reading this thread and just got my 4000 in today. Does 16.5' throw distance from a 125" wide 2.35 screen sound about right? First row of seating at 14.5'.

I hope your screen has some gain. You are going to be at about 6 ft.L at "Color 1" otherwise. And that's at high bulb and before it dims with use.
 
#3,016 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell /forum/post/17863765


I have spent some time reading this thread and just got my 4000 in today. Does 16.5' throw distance from a 125" wide 2.35 screen sound about right? First row of seating at 14.5'.

That sounds like an excellent setup. You could get a bit more brightness if you put the projector a foot or two closer, but it should work well as you described. Make sure the projector lens is no higher than the top of the screen.
 
#3,018 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHouse /forum/post/17863804


I hope your screen has some gain. You are going to be at about 6 ft.L at "Color 1" otherwise.

Is it better to be closer to the min TD for a particular screen DG or max?

Will it be brighter at the min? Is the lens zoomed out or zoomed in at the min? Just curious as my PJ won't arrive until tomorrow so I can't play around with it.



At 13' TD and about 13 - 14' 1st row seating, I'm contemplating getting 125" 2.35 screen, which will give me just under 100" 16:9 screen. It may make most viewing (cable, BD, netflix) look sharper on the smaller screen and still let me use the lens memory function of the PJ. But I'll have to mounth the screen pretty high up on my 8ft high wall, as the bottom of the PJ will be upright in an 11 inch high box - I think it needs to be about 6-8" from the ceiling so that the center of the lens is at or below the top of the screen. That would mean the eye level (assuming it's 40") would be just at the bottom of the screen! Someone told me it should be about 1/3 way up from the bottom of the screen. Can I angle down the PJ about 5 deg so that the screen can be lower?
 
#3,020 ·
Minimum throw distance is brighter.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Pana...ulator-pro.htm


If you click on his info button somewhere it will tell you that they are assuming 75% of rated lumens for the calculation, which is 975 lumens I think. But the "Color 1" setting we all want to use has only about 550 Lumens. So you almost have to cut what the calculator tells you in half.


Look over in the High Power threads on the screen forum. There is a big hubbub (everybody getting mad about what appears to be an improvement) there about a new High Power fabric that has a 2.4 gain and a much wider cone of highest gain so all your seating positions will benefit. Plus, they are cheap/reasonable if you get a manual pull down (which you can cut off the roller and mount with staples or snaps).
 
#3,021 ·

Quote:
Quote:
originally posted by agni
anyone know if this will work with 3d blurays to be out soon?

yea if you have the glasses.

No it won't! It would have to be labeled "3D ready."

Problem 1:

If the projector delays the display by an odd frame amount for processing, (1, 3, 5 frames) then the wrong shutter will fire at the wrong time.

Problem 2:

The panny would have to accept 120Hz input. The 3D spec has 50% greater bandwidth requirment, which also means it's outside 1080p 120Hz for 1.3HDMI.
 
#3,024 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell /forum/post/17864464


Is there a "best practices" or friendly user guide to use when first starting with this PJ? FAQ? Something a newb would understand?

I wish there was. Projectors are complex beast full of tweeks. What might be opitmal for one person, won't be for the next due to the enormous amount of variables like screen size, screen material, seating position, ambient light, personal preference, throw distance, etc etc. There's usually tradeoffs when adjusting a projector.


But that's what partially makes projectors great: Their flexibility to deliver the best picture to your standards or needs all at a reasonable price compared to a 100" plasma or LCD.


I can tell you that the widest angle (shortest distance from projector to screen possible) will give you the brightest picture. But you also also risk greater distortion and hot spotting.


You could use a grey screen for better contrast, but in the process you lose overall brightness which reduces your maximum screen size.


You could crank the bulb and output settings for the brightest/biggest picture, but then you lose color accuracy.


So you yourself need to make these decisions.


I'm personally aiming for a .8 gain screen for better contrast, as I don't need anything above 100" in a light controlled room.
 
#3,025 ·
OFF TOPIC WARNING


I thought all this "gray screens increase contrast" stuff was determined to be bunk years ago. I thought the contrast ratio remained the same, it was just that everything, including the gray/black end of the scale became darker. I guess I need to go research that again.
 
#3,026 ·
I just watched a video on projector people about detail clarity and could visibly see the iris close down when the scene went to dark. Is this my imagination or is the closing of the iris this apparent?
 
#3,027 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Wayne /forum/post/17865294


I just watched a video on projector people about detail clarity and could visibly see the iris close down when the scene went to dark. Is this my imagination or is the closing of the iris this apparent?

I could clearly see it and was bothered by it on my AE2000. Can't see it at all and have never noticed it on the AE4000.


Now the first day I put up the 4000, I thought I saw something like it, and maybe it just needed to get loosened up, or it could have been the arc of the bulb hopping around to find its favorite spot. But it was gone the next time I tried it. And it is working invisibly.
 
#3,028 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHouse /forum/post/17865214


OFF TOPIC WARNING


I thought all this "gray screens increase contrast" stuff was determined to be bunk years ago. I thought the contrast ratio remained the same, it was just that everything, including the gray/black end of the scale became darker. I guess I need to go research that again.

You may be correct. But I never heard of this before. I'm still kind of new to projectors. The recent professional review I read on the AE4000 recommended a lower gain screen for increased contrast however.


Technically speaking, yes a grey screen would just uniformly dim the picture. However the real question is, will it dim the light bleed so that it is below our perception and appear to increase contrast? Instrument measured contrast, and eye apparent contrast are two seperate things. So I really don't know.


To go on the safe side, I was going to go with the professional reviewers opinion.
 
#3,029 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHouse /forum/post/17865214


OFF TOPIC WARNING


I thought all this "gray screens increase contrast" stuff was determined to be bunk years ago. I thought the contrast ratio remained the same, it was just that everything, including the gray/black end of the scale became darker. I guess I need to go research that again.

A lot of stuff in A-V especially the "A" part is bunk aka "magical thinking". I am using a "bad" screen (Silver Star) with my AE-4k and I am quite happy with the results in a poorly light controlled environment.


Steve
 
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