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The official Ruby Calibration Q/A Thread

83K views 614 replies 104 participants last post by  wm 
#1 ·
Looks like we needed a good, centralized thread to share helpful tips, tricks, and settings related to calibrating the Ruby. I'll start by posting some of my findings and some questions.


[Mods - please leave this thread in this forum rather than moving it to the calibration forum - as most Ruby owners will not find it there (a previous thread on calibrating Ruby dynamic iris got no action there and quickly sank despite many attempts to keep it going...)]

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I've calibrated two different Ruby's at this point (using ColorFacts 6.0 and the EyeOne sensor) - one was a demo unit and the other was mine. The pjs were connected via DVI to a Bravo D1 outputting 1080i using patterns from both VE and DVE.


I thought you may find it interesting to know that out of the box both were quite warm on the color temp from 20-100 IRE, particuarly below 50 IRE. For example both units ranged from 5800 - 6250, generally starting around 5800 and moving up toward 6250 as the IRE increased. The demo unit had about 125 hours; mine had just a couple at the time.


I did all my calibration in the auto iris mode. I found it worked best to calibrate using window patterns. If you calibrated for the windows and then later tried with the full fields, it was pretty close at the full field. However the same was not true in reverse (calibrated to full fields resulted in widely off #s when measuing against windows).


One thing I did not try that I'm interested in would have been calibrating at the window, then going to full fields and tweaking at the full fields, then checking again on the windows. Basically the full fields were close enough, and I didn't want to spend hours on this as I know I'll need to recalibrate it soon as I only had a few hours on the bulb.


Nonetheless, if anyone knows of the best approach to find the right balance between APLs when it comes to calibrating auto iris please post it here, as I am still a bit unclear on the process despite pretty good results from my attempts.


If anyone is interseted in my calibration #s from the Ruby with just a couple hours on it, let me know and I'll post them here. Assuming some similarity between units/lamps, using these numbers may be a good starting point for those without calibration equipment.


On another note, I was quite surprised that I had to set my Color control to 57 and Tint to 48 to get the Split Color Bars pattern to look correct. Anyone else notice this? I find that the grayscale I set via the Bravo works great on my Comcast STB as well. However I wonder if the same color/tint setting is applicable on there as sometimes colors may look over saturated.


I set my Contrast at 69 based solely on how 10 step IRE bars looked. At the default of 80 the 100 IRE bar looked kinda "mushed" into the 90 IRE bar. As I stepped it down toward 69 the seperation between the 100 and 90 IRE bars became much more defined. I stopped at 69 which was the point at which there was no more definition between the 100 IRE and 90 IRE bar compared to higher settings. Was this the result of brightness compression?


Normally you have to back the contrast down on these projectors because you run out of the limiting color at the default contrast setting. With the Ruby however I had plenty of blue (limiting color in its Xenon lamp) to spare at 100 IRE. So it was a shame to back the Contrast down to 69 but seeing the 10 step pattern made it pretty clear that this was a necessity. Perhaps when the bulb ages and light output drops, I may opt to bring the contrast back up to get the increased brightness at the expense of the upper end. So in a way it is good this flexibility is there.


One tough spot for me as usual is that unfortunately the EyeOne will not generate a valid CIE graph. I had this same issue with the Sharp 10K. It shows Red right on but blue and green are way short of their rec 709 coords so I know this is wrong. Therefore I cannot use the RCP to gauge how to dial in proper rec 709 coords.


I have my Ruby in Nomal color space. Can someone please recommend any tweaks/settings to the RCP to dial in the colors a bit more accurately as Greg mentioned doing in his review?


Please chime in with your questions, tips and tricks related to calibrating your Ruby.
 
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#579 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbase1 /forum/post/17211090


enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

NO NO NO - it won't work with any of that stuff - Not for $100.
 
#581 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbase1 /forum/post/17211090


enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

I upgraded from Z5 to Ruby too and if you really get the Ruby that cheap there is no doubt that you will get a far superior PJ compared to Z5. Though it is already older technology today it was the Sony flag ship projector 2005-2007!
 
#582 ·
Is 12' away from a 8' wide scope screen with a prismasonic V1000 lens to close or what's the best distance for my screen? Projector central says 14' 2". My manual says

12' 2". My current projector is about 18' away. I would like to get mounting setup before Monday when the projector arrives.
 
#585 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfer_Joe /forum/post/17729093


Does anyone have any good ideas about dealing with Horizontal keystone adjustments for Ruby?

TIA

Joe

If the Built-In Keystone is NOT enough for you - I recommend

you CHANGE the PJ Mounting. Any electronic Keystone on any

PJ is a distortion of the image and DOES negatively effect PQ.
 
#588 ·
Well been having the Ruby clicking on startup for some time, then it won't start at all. Put back in the old bulb and still no luck, just clicking and no bulb ignite, I'm guessing I need the hard start mod at this point? Or is there a simpler remedy that's been discovered in the last year I've been gone??

Might as well just get a new projector I suppose.
 
#589 ·
I still have my Ruby. Although I like stille some things, like good colour, not electronic picture, the automatic Iris is bothering more and more.


On a movie like tw lasts Batman. i dont know how to set my projector. Without AI, the picture is better because some shadows details are not crushed. When I have a good picture in dark scenes it is bad again in gright.


Was thinking of selling it and get a new generation Sont, like the 85 (but then I have a AI again), or the new Jvc.


But will that be a ste^forward, or must I find a way to tweak better my sony?
 
#590 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by indieke2 /forum/post/17832386


I still have my Ruby. Although I like stille some things, like good colour, not electronic picture, the automatic Iris is bothering more and more.


On a movie like tw lasts Batman. i dont know how to set my projector. Without AI, the picture is better because some shadows details are not crushed. When I have a good picture in dark scenes it is bad again in gright.


Was thinking of selling it and get a new generation Sont, like the 85 (but then I have a AI again), or the new Jvc.


But will that be a ste^forward, or must I find a way to tweak better my sony?

I replaced my Ruby with a second hand (280h) JVC HD100 / RS2. It is soooo much better than the Ruby and the lack of the DI is a joy to my eyes :) I was always tweaking the Ruby but this calibrated JVC needs no adjusting, just enjoying.
 
#591 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone /forum/post/17829941


Well been having the Ruby clicking on startup for some time, then it won't start at all. Put back in the old bulb and still no luck, just clicking and no bulb ignite, I'm guessing I need the hard start mod at this point? Or is there a simpler remedy that's been discovered in the last year I've been gone??

Might as well just get a new projector I suppose.

My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!
 
#592 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jblpro /forum/post/17868731


My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!

Yah I have seen that paste. I'll try cleaning some of it up and seeing if that works, hope it doesn't over heat! Can't imagine it gets brighter, unless you put in a new bulb. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it tonight.
 
#593 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler /forum/post/17832473


I replaced my Ruby with a second hand (280h) JVC HD100 / RS2. It is soooo much better than the Ruby and the lack of the DI is a joy to my eyes :) I was always tweaking the Ruby but this calibrated JVC needs no adjusting, just enjoying.

Yah I don't like the di so I leave it off, I've been so happy with my ruby, other than the bulb now not firing.. But since the rs2 does 30-1 native is very important to me. Hate DI. Thanks for the post.
 
#594 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone /forum/post/17873217


Yah I don't like the di so I leave it off, I've been so happy with my ruby, other than the bulb now not firing.. But since the rs2 does 30-1 native is very important to me. Hate DI. Thanks for the post.

That JVC native contrast of 30000:1 makes a huge difference to the Ruby and the black level is awesome too. The JVC picture is also sharper, brighter and punchier. Dear Ruby has grown old, I'm afraid...
 
#595 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler /forum/post/17885568


That JVC native contrast of 30000:1 makes a huge difference to the Ruby and the black level is awesome too. The JVC picture is also sharper, brighter and punchier. Dear Ruby has grown old, I'm afraid...

I just recently saw that JVC model on display in chatsworth, and I have to say that low lumen (600) really turned me off to this unit. Yes the blacks were deeper but it was so damn dim I actually hated watching it. My Ruby is MUCH brighter, I recall it listed around 900lumens, and it shows. I had hi hopes. I'll go back and see if maybe there was to many hours on the bulb, that could of been it. But I messed with the remote and could not get it any brighter. What was a kicker was that it was only running on a 95 inch screen. I'm running on a 120" with a MUCH brighter image, I'll look into it when I'm back there.
 
#596 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jblpro /forum/post/17868731


My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!


Thank you so much, it actually worked! I'm back up and running.
I owe you a beer!
 
#597 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone /forum/post/17887044


I just recently saw that JVC model on display in chatsworth, and I have to say that low lumen (600) really turned me off to this unit. Yes the blacks were deeper but it was so damn dim I actually hated watching it. My Ruby is MUCH brighter, I recall it listed around 900lumens, and it shows. I had hi hopes. I'll go back and see if maybe there was to many hours on the bulb, that could of been it. But I messed with the remote and could not get it any brighter. What was a kicker was that it was only running on a 95 inch screen. I'm running on a 120" with a MUCH brighter image, I'll look into it when I'm back there.

Strange, my Ruby with a fresh lamp was much dimmer than the JVC HD100/RS2... I have a dark walled dedicated HT room and a 1.0 gain 92" white screen. The measured ansi lumens count, not the specifications of the manufacturer (JVC 600, Sony 800). I believe that The Ruby is lower in real measured ansi lumens than the HD100/RS2.


The Ruby is still a great PJ and I still have her at my other setup.
 
#598 ·
Hi,


I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.


Thanks for any help,


Harold
 
#599 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland /forum/post/17936739


Hi,


I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.


Thanks for any help,


Harold

If you have NOT RESET the Lamp Hours - the PJ is probably

Dimming the LAMP so it does not EXPLODE. The Lamp reset

instructions are in the Owner's Manual.
 
#600 ·
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have now set the lamp to 0 hours and still have extremely crushed luminance.


Although I can't believe it I think its a lamp problem. The lamp had less than 350 hours on it and was very bright three weeks ago. I came back from holiday and it has almost zero luminance. I tried DVI and various HDMI sources. All sources have a bright half scan-line top left, which I never had before. SKY HD and my AVCHD camera have a black block top left, as if there is a warning banner I can't see. Those two sources are 1080i. Blu-ray, PS3 and my laptop (DVI) give 1080P and no black bar but still crushed luminance.


I will take the lamp out again and reseat the bulb with fresh silver paste. I thought I might have put too much on when I replaced the Lamp a couple of months ago, but it worked perfectly until now.


Thanks for any insights.


Harold




Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland

Hi,


I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.


Thanks for any help,



Harold

If you have NOT RESET the Lamp Hours - the PJ is probably

Dimming the LAMP so it does not EXPLODE. The Lamp reset

instructions are in the Owner's Manual.
 
#601 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland /forum/post/17951442


All sources have a bright half scan-line top left, which I never had before.


Harold

None of your problems sound like a LAMP problem. The LAMP is

just a LIGHT source - it can not control any scan lines.


I hate to say this but the PJ may have a more serious failure.


WITH NO SOURCES AT ALL - What does the Screen Look Like.
 
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