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The official Ruby Calibration Q/A Thread

83K views 614 replies 104 participants last post by  wm 
#1 ·
Looks like we needed a good, centralized thread to share helpful tips, tricks, and settings related to calibrating the Ruby. I'll start by posting some of my findings and some questions.


[Mods - please leave this thread in this forum rather than moving it to the calibration forum - as most Ruby owners will not find it there (a previous thread on calibrating Ruby dynamic iris got no action there and quickly sank despite many attempts to keep it going...)]

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I've calibrated two different Ruby's at this point (using ColorFacts 6.0 and the EyeOne sensor) - one was a demo unit and the other was mine. The pjs were connected via DVI to a Bravo D1 outputting 1080i using patterns from both VE and DVE.


I thought you may find it interesting to know that out of the box both were quite warm on the color temp from 20-100 IRE, particuarly below 50 IRE. For example both units ranged from 5800 - 6250, generally starting around 5800 and moving up toward 6250 as the IRE increased. The demo unit had about 125 hours; mine had just a couple at the time.


I did all my calibration in the auto iris mode. I found it worked best to calibrate using window patterns. If you calibrated for the windows and then later tried with the full fields, it was pretty close at the full field. However the same was not true in reverse (calibrated to full fields resulted in widely off #s when measuing against windows).


One thing I did not try that I'm interested in would have been calibrating at the window, then going to full fields and tweaking at the full fields, then checking again on the windows. Basically the full fields were close enough, and I didn't want to spend hours on this as I know I'll need to recalibrate it soon as I only had a few hours on the bulb.


Nonetheless, if anyone knows of the best approach to find the right balance between APLs when it comes to calibrating auto iris please post it here, as I am still a bit unclear on the process despite pretty good results from my attempts.


If anyone is interseted in my calibration #s from the Ruby with just a couple hours on it, let me know and I'll post them here. Assuming some similarity between units/lamps, using these numbers may be a good starting point for those without calibration equipment.


On another note, I was quite surprised that I had to set my Color control to 57 and Tint to 48 to get the Split Color Bars pattern to look correct. Anyone else notice this? I find that the grayscale I set via the Bravo works great on my Comcast STB as well. However I wonder if the same color/tint setting is applicable on there as sometimes colors may look over saturated.


I set my Contrast at 69 based solely on how 10 step IRE bars looked. At the default of 80 the 100 IRE bar looked kinda "mushed" into the 90 IRE bar. As I stepped it down toward 69 the seperation between the 100 and 90 IRE bars became much more defined. I stopped at 69 which was the point at which there was no more definition between the 100 IRE and 90 IRE bar compared to higher settings. Was this the result of brightness compression?


Normally you have to back the contrast down on these projectors because you run out of the limiting color at the default contrast setting. With the Ruby however I had plenty of blue (limiting color in its Xenon lamp) to spare at 100 IRE. So it was a shame to back the Contrast down to 69 but seeing the 10 step pattern made it pretty clear that this was a necessity. Perhaps when the bulb ages and light output drops, I may opt to bring the contrast back up to get the increased brightness at the expense of the upper end. So in a way it is good this flexibility is there.


One tough spot for me as usual is that unfortunately the EyeOne will not generate a valid CIE graph. I had this same issue with the Sharp 10K. It shows Red right on but blue and green are way short of their rec 709 coords so I know this is wrong. Therefore I cannot use the RCP to gauge how to dial in proper rec 709 coords.


I have my Ruby in Nomal color space. Can someone please recommend any tweaks/settings to the RCP to dial in the colors a bit more accurately as Greg mentioned doing in his review?


Please chime in with your questions, tips and tricks related to calibrating your Ruby.
 
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#602 ·
Hi,


Thanks for your thoughts. A hardware/software failure of the PJ would be more worrying for me as I am not 100% about Sony Service in Greece. For it to be the lamp would be surprising as the PJ went from the brightest I remember to a strange low light situation while I was away for 2 weeks.


With no inputs connected at all the PJ still shows the same heavily crushed luminance. I can barely read the on screen menus. I still see a half scan line at the top left. I believe this scan line is at normal luminance, but it is so thin I can't be sure. It may be my imagination but when I switch on the Ruby and change inputs I see more strange blocky random types of shash than I saw before. in fact I don't remember it ever throwing images like that at me. Although I only see them for a few frames or fractions of a second I feel they are full luminance too. It is perhaps only when the PJ settles down that it goes low luminance. Maybe it still feels it is in an emergency low lamp state? I left it disconnected for 12 hours but no joy there. Before experimenting with the bulb maybe I can find a complete reset function? So far I can't. I will try to check it out through a laptop but from the manual it doesn't look compatible with Macs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz /forum/post/17951694


None of your problems sound like a LAMP problem. The LAMP is

just a LIGHT source - it can not control any scan lines.


I hate to say this but the PJ may have a more serious failure.


WITH NO SOURCES AT ALL - What does the Screen Look Like.
 
#603 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland /forum/post/17958403


With no inputs connected at all the PJ still shows the same heavily crushed luminance. I can barely read the on screen menus. I still see a half scan line at the top left. I believe this scan line is at normal luminance, but it is so thin I can't be sure. It may be my imagination but when I switch on the Ruby and change inputs I see more strange blocky random types of shash than I saw before. in fact I don't remember it ever throwing images like that at me. Although I only see them for a few frames or fractions of a second I feel they are full luminance too. It is perhaps only when the PJ settles down that it goes low luminance. Maybe it still feels it is in an emergency low lamp state? I left it disconnected for 12 hours but no joy there. Before experimenting with the bulb maybe I can find a complete reset function? So far I can't. I will try to check it out through a laptop but from the manual it doesn't look compatible with Macs.

As you know with NO INPUTS - you should at least have a BLUE Screen

and be Able to READ the MENU. It is sounding more and more like an

internal PJ problem. Maybe you had some electrical problem while

you were away. MINE is ISOLATED from AC unless I power it up via a

fancy and complex control system.


There should be a FACTORY RESET function somewhere.


As for MACs - do you at least have a MAC that can run WINDOWS?

The Sony only wants to talk to a PC - surprise surprise



I'm a MAC person but I also have PCs for times like this although

my MAC is Intel based and runs Windows as well.


I have not tried this in a long long long time - I have Ethernet

run to my PJ and it has a FIXED IP address - so I can access the

PJ over the network. I know I have done that from a PC and worked

just fine - the PJ has a web browser in it if you know the IP address.

I don't remember ever trying from my MAC - I will try that TONIGHT

and let you know what I find out - but that will be at least 5-6 hours

from now.
 
#604 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland
Hi,


Thanks for your thoughts. .
Hi whiskersland


I extracted the VW100 network access info from the SERVICE Manual.

I have attached it BELOW - I had to split it into two files because AVS

has a File Limit of 500kb per file.


I hope this helps - The MAC can access the PJ over the Network through

Safari. If you think you NEED the WHOLE Service Manual - PM me and

I can make it available - IT IS 24MB in size so I can not e-mail it.

 

Part-1.pdf 353.658203125k . file

 

Part-2.pdf 256.94921875k . file
 

Attachments

#606 ·
Hi DrHankz,


I left the PJ in standby while away, but it should have been protected from any power surges by the UPS for my HT room, which seems in good working order.


Thank you very much for the good info. My Macs are Intel but I don't run any Windows OS on them, (yet!). When I get home today I will straight away try to connect with your instructions, (through Safari) and see if I can find anything helpful, like a system reset or Diagnostics. Thanks for the service manual.


Something else. Just before I turned it on, (I had returned from holiday and not used it yet), I reconnected its HDMI source to an HDMI splitter. I had added a small HDMI LCD to the room and hoped to be able to duplicate the main output for convenience. So the first time i switched it on it was getting its HDMI source through this (cheap) splitter. The splitter later proved to work but not with 2 outputs at the same time. I wonder if the Ruby received a rogue signal that flipped it into this mode. The LCD TV did not seem to like the split signal either and turned its HDMI input off, but by then I had noticed the Ruby was not working normally. Coincidence? To get the TV to work I replugged the LCD HDMI directly into my amp and the LCD found its HDMI signal again. Of course I tried the same with my PJ but to no avail. Testing later I found both outputs from the splitter work but not at the same time. That maybe the limitation of the device although the vender did not make it clear.


.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz /forum/post/17960231


Hi whiskersland


I extracted the VW100 network access info from the SERVICE Manual.

I have attached it BELOW - I had to split it into two files because AVS

has a File Limit of 500kb per file.


I hope this helps - The MAC can access the PJ over the Network through

Safari. If you think you NEED the WHOLE Service Manual - PM me and

I can make it available - IT IS 24MB in size so I can not e-mail it.
 
#608 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler /forum/post/17962515


I'd like to find out where that is. I'm selling my Ruby soon and would like to reset it before that.

FROM THE SERVICE MANUAL

2-1-2. Factory Mode Setting

1. Press the “Setup” key on the MENU. The “Setup” menu is displayed.

2. Set the “Status” item to “On”.

3. Exit the menu.

4. Press the keys in the following order: “ENTER”→“ENTER”→“LEFT”→“ENTER”

5. The message “Do you wish to enter into the FACTORY MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓” will be displayed.

6. Select “Yes:↑”.
NOTE:

When leaving the FACTORY MODE, perform item 3.

“Do you wish to return to the USER MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓”

will be displayed. Select “Yes:↑”.
 
#609 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz /forum/post/17962974


FROM THE SERVICE MANUAL

2-1-2. Factory Mode Setting

1. Press the Setup key on the MENU. The Setup menu is displayed.

2. Set the Status item to On.

3. Exit the menu.

4. Press the keys in the following order: ENTER→ENTER→LEFT→ENTER

5. The message Do you wish to enter into the FACTORY MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓ will be displayed.

6. Select Yes:↑.
NOTE:

When leaving the FACTORY MODE, perform item 3.

Do you wish to return to the USER MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓

will be displayed. Select Yes:↑.

Thanks but I didn't mean that, as a matter of fact I already knew that... I meant is there a total factory reset for Ruby? A reset for all the factory mode adjustments I've made? I've tweaked the color balance and iris.
 
#610 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler /forum/post/17962999


Thanks but I didn't mean that, as a matter of fact I already knew that... I meant is there a total factory reset for Ruby? A reset for all the factory mode adjustments I've made? I've tweaked the color balance and iris.

That is the ONLY RESET in the Service Manual [NOT the OWNER's Manual]
 
#611 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler /forum/post/17962999


Thanks but I didn't mean that, as a matter of fact I already knew that... I meant is there a total factory reset for Ruby? A reset for all the factory mode adjustments I've made? I've tweaked the color balance and iris.

The ONLY other Info is how to adjust the IRIS back to Factory Settings


1-6-3. IRIS Adjustment

1. Enter the Factory Mode.

2. Set OTHER: 42 Iris Adj in the Device Menu to 1.

3. Change the value of OTHER: 43 Iris/Open_Reg.

4. Change the value of OTHER: 50 Iris/On_Reg.

5. Change the value of OTERR: 44 Iris/Close_Reg.

6. Return OTHER: 42 Iris Adj to 0.

7. Perform Save to Memory.
 
#614 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jblpro  /t/633010/the-official-ruby-calibration-q-a-thread/600#post_17972397


VPL-VW100 service/protocol manual real free download !!
http://www.givemefile.net/smanuals/p...ile/30443.html

Anyone download that already and extract the actual documents? When I go to access it, an .exe file is downloaded, and although it is signed, there's no way in heck I'm going to run it on my computer. I don't have a VM handy to run it in either.
 
#615 ·
I have these documents and can email them to you if you need them, and I won't put them in a .exe. Send email to wm(at)usa(dot)net


William
 
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