AVS Forum banner

RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread

541K views 4K replies 391 participants last post by  DataModel 
#1 ·
I just got my RS2 up and configured somewhat and seeing how there are other discussions on other threads about setup, I figured it would be good to have one place to talk about how we are all configuring our new projectors.


So here we go:


I upgraded from a Dilard'ized G11/Panamorph/9ft wide Firehawk to the RS2/Panamorph UH380 w/M380 transport/10ft wide 2.40 SMX AT screen.


The only thing I've done so far is set the focus and made one red pixel adjustment. Pixel perfect now. Wow, what a great image!


Here's the first thing I noticed on setup. The image zoom, now automatic vs. manual on the RS1, zooms from the center outwards in all directions. In all directions equally; unless that is, you have the pj mounted higher than the center of the screen. Then it zooms differently on the top vs. the bottom because the image is being thrown on a downward angle. This should not be an issue if you plan on setting up your image to the top of the screen initially and thereafter use the V-Stretch mode/anamorphic lens combo to do widescreen material.


My setup:


Projector is 100" off the floor, center of lens.


Top of screen is 87" off the floor.


Projector is 18 ft back from screen.


Panamorph lens/sled mounted in front of the projector with the included support plate. It is a little tedious to mount the Panamorph system but well worth it. IMO, you must use the chain supports for this setup for proper weight load balance. See picture below. EDIT: All motorized Panamorph systems now come with a thicker mounting plate so the support chains are no longer needed. Nice.


Having everything as perfectly level as possible results in almost perfect image geometry with the lens in the light path.


IMPORTANT NOTE:


With this combo of distances, this is about the max you can go with the pj being higher than the top of screen. There is almost no more adjustment with the manual lens shift downward. You can give the the pj a little downward tilt in front, but you will lose perfect image geometry.


Starting from a full zoom in position and moving to a full zoom out position, the image moved UP 13" on the top and DOWN 54" on the bottom because of the downward light path.


The saving grace, and thank you Shawn Kelly from Panamorph for helping me get this straight, is that when using the Pannie setup I should rarely, if ever, have to adjust lens shift or zoom. With the new 'V-Stretch' scaling in the RS2, enabling that and having the lens motor'ifically slide into place to expand the image to the full 2.40 screen width, that keeps the image full screen at least top to bottom. Wow, that Shawn didn't cut no corners with his latest entry. When you take that stuff out of the box, you really feel like you got your monies worth. I've always been a huge supporter the the anamorphic lenses. Well done Shawn.


EDIT: 02-09-08


With 40 hours on the RS2, I finally had time to set levels with a test disc.


I used the Avia dvd first thru an Oppo970 upconverting player set to 720p and then a Toshiba A30. All measurements directly from the DVD players to the RS2. All settings in the dvd players at default.


First the Toshiba using HDMI, upscaled:


Gamma at 'normal', color temp 'middle'.


Contrast -1


Brightness -1


Color 0


Sharpness 0


Tint 0, tint is not adjustable on the RS2, I'm assuming because of the now individually adjustable RGB colors.


With Gamma at Theater 1, color temp 'middle'.


Nice to see there was little need for adjustments vs. the factory 'normal'.


Contrast -0


Brightness -2


Color 0


Oppo player using HDMI, upscaled to 720p:


Gamma normal


Contrast 5


Brightness 0


Color -2


Gamma Theater 1


Contrast 5


Brightness -1


Color -2


EDIT: Feb. '09. 250 hrs. on the bulb


Settings using DVE BR disc thru a PS3, HDMI direct to the RS2:


Gamma 2.4 with the 5 point bump up at 5% IRE, color temp middle


Contrast -3


Brightness 1


Color -3


The resulting image is outstanding. Contrast and image depth is fantastic. Color levels seem to be a little strong, maybe too much for some, but to me with a couple ticks less saturation, they look great. There is a lot of user adjustability in the menus. Very nice!


This is one fine projector. I can't imagine anyone not being extremely satisfied with it.


Edit 4-19-11


At 638 hrs. on the bulb I had Jeff Meier do a full calibration. The results:


Initial light level 3.0 fl in 2.35 mode. Final light output 3.3 fl and 4.5 fl in 16:9 mode. 170 lumens at 638 hours.


Pre on/off contrast ratio 5078, post cr 13052.


Pre gamma 2.02, post gamma 2.21


Color temp, gamma curve and gray scale RGB ratios were reasonably close pre cal and spot on post cal.


I happen to have had the new Panamorph lens, the DC1 in my possession during the cal as well as my regular lens, the UH480. We did a light loss comparison with both in and out of the light path.


Light loss for the DC1 was 0.6% and 1.7% for the 480. Not bad at all. Those numbers were much lower than I expected and definitely not noticable between the two.


That's about it. I haven't had much time to do any serious viewing yet but initially the image looked pretty darn good after the calibration. I'm considering going to a Seymore screen material to replace my SMX material to pick up a little more brightness. I have a sample of it and it's a bit whiter than the SMX material.


Issues:


Lens shake:


Many have experienced a shaking of the image during deep or strong bass passages, myself included. The easy fix is to use the pink foam that came packed around the lens and fit it snugly back in around the lens.



VStretch IR:


There is no 'one touch' IR command for VStretch on the early RS2's. See note below. You will need to go into the menu to engage/disengage VStretch or do an IR macro to do it. I use a macro and it works perfect. The RS2 is very quick in handling IR commands. The only catch is that when you do your macro, you must include commands that back you all the way out of the menu to the start. Otherwise, you will not be in the starting position of the menu the next time you engage/disengage VStretch.


I will try to compile pics and links from the pages of this thread as pertinent info comes up:


Projector Overview:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/f...l_id=MDL101733


Reviews posted on the JVC website:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/a...&feature_id=09


Throw Distance Calculator:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-...calculator.htm


For those interested in a true widescreen experience using all the RS2 has to offer, an anamorphic lens is a must have. Check out the Panamorph system. I have it and it rocks! Click on the screen to watch the video.

http://www.panamorph.com


Lamp Replacement:


Follow the links to the lamp and DIY method. Several owners have done this with great results.


toddius' excellent how to post(#4068) w/pics:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/957044/rs2-pro-fpj1-owners-setup-discussion-thread/4050#post_22476884


Lamp hour counter reset:


In standby mode.


Press Exit, Enter, Hide then hold Arrow down for 2 seconds or more.


Standby indicator will flash for 3 seconds and then go back to standby.


Once turned back on counter should be back to Zero.


Link to the Osram bulb many are using:

http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html


Quote from Alan Gouger on page 12:


"Guys try running the RS2 with Gamma set to 2.4


Then go in and bump 5 IRE 5 points. Set contrast to + 10 and brightness + 3.


The picture is incredibly CRT like. The projectors black level is able to handle the lower CRT gamma curves.


My experience with these settings any BD or HD DVD title that previously showed banding and posturization is now just as clean and solid as CRT. Amazing.


This is quite the projector."


I personally use this gamma and it is fantastic. My C & B ended up being a little lower than +10 and +3 based on the DVE HD/Avia disc and my personal taste, but to each his own.


Neutral density filters:


"Hi for all concerned. My ND Filter is a B+W 82mm ND 0.6 -2BL 4x Filter.


It screws straight into the front lens using the existing thread. There is no light reflection that Greg Rogers tells you to watch out for. It works bloody well." Thanks to Badas for that one. Do a Google search for many results.


And thank you to Badas for this one:


"A couple of weeks ago we were having a big discussion on ND Filters. I have always used them on my projectors. It takes away that raw digital effect. I had discussed using a 0.3 ND filter instead of a 0.6 ND as the lamp loses power. My Lamp is at 1280 hours and the light output was getting a lot lower.


I took my advice and got a 0.3 ND filter. I am happy to report that this trick works very well. It has let more light on screen but has retained that analoge look that ND filters produce. So when I have a new lamp I will use a 0.6 ND filter. When the lamp Dims (about 1000 hours) I will use the 0.3 ND Filter. If you are using a 0.6ND and find your lamp dimming try a 0.3ND.


I got mine from Amazon: Tiffen 0.3ND 82mm."


If you are considering the ND filter, make sure you check out Badas' comments on page 111 regarding filters and zoom range.


Quote from Matt Natale:


"Good News and Bad news.


Your RS2's main version must be 229 for these commands to work. There is no way to upgrade.


New RS-232 commands:


V-Stretch ON: 21 89 01 5653 31 0A


V-Stretch OFF: 21 89 01 5653 30 0A


New IR commands:


V-Stretch ON: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D


V-Stretch OFF: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D"


What this means is that if you have a later build of the RS2, like the RS2X instead of the original RS2U, these codes for V-Stretch ON/Off will work without having to do menu macros.


The ir codes below are on a Word doc. Copy and paste these using an ir program, like Pronto Edit.


Chris




 


 

RS2 IR Codes.doc 62k . file







 
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#3,633 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by moviegk61 /forum/post/18550741


No worries, like I said I was just trying to get the most out of this projector for a friend, and maybe learn a little more about calibration. Early in this thread after Greg Rogers review of the RS 2 came out he talked of getting gamma/grayscale down to 1 or 2 Delta E's. I thought I was doing something wrong, and that maybe someone here might be able to help. My own set-up is looking pretty good with the VideoEQ Pro in the chain. I am going to a CalMAN training seminar later this year, I'll take it up with them. I am hoping to get this hobby...obsession... to pay for itself one day! Thanks for all the input, I have learned a lot at AVS over the years.
BTW Avatar did look awesome!

With enough time and the right equipment the RS2 can be dialed in to the desired gamma and a flat gray-scale at D65. This is not an easy or quick project. The only thing that cannot be done is fix the gammut, that will require external fixes.
 
#3,635 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC /forum/post/18552597


With enough time and the right equipment the RS2 can be dialed in to the desired gamma and a flat gray-scale at D65. This is not an easy or quick project. The only thing that cannot be done is fix the gammut, that will require external fixes.

Glen I was thinking my on screen display was contaminating my readings. I was going to try taking a series of measurements then estimate how far I need to move "RGB" sliders for specific ire point, move them, save, then back out of OSD and remeasure. Does this sound right, is this where all the time is spent? Will the eye one pro spectro be accurate enough for this? Thanks for taking the time to discuss this. Doug G.
 
#3,636 ·
After 30 some hours. Numerous phone calls, endless nights, I think I have my JVC DLA RS2 calibrated. And I am pleased with the results



Would I say it was easy, nope. I know why ISF calibraters get $500 and up to do this.


I did this with CalMAN Enthusiast, a videoEQ Pro and a ColorMunki. My projector is about 13 ft 4 inches away throwing on Da Lite 119 screen. I actually have the pictured scaled down about a foot all around for a slightly brighter picture. And values around 10IRE and 20IRE are just non- existence. The ColorMunki just doesn't reach that far.


Any comments would be appreciated. Any questions and I will try to help. And I don't know why the RGB color balance shows what it shows, SpectraCal was confused as well. If any of you want my CalMAN saved CDF file, I'd be happy to do so.

 
#3,637 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by moviegk61 /forum/post/18556425


Glen I was thinking my on screen display was contaminating my readings. I was going to try taking a series of measurements then estimate how far I need to move "RGB" sliders for specific ire point, move them, save, then back out of OSD and remeasure. Does this sound right, is this where all the time is spent? Will the eye one pro spectro be accurate enough for this? Thanks for taking the time to discuss this. Doug G.

Doug, my situation is getting gamma and grayscale as accurate as possible. My microspec can take readings without the OSD affecting the readings. The time is with all the interaction between the different input levels (5,10..20...) and the changes in luminance level and the x,y trying to reach target points.


You can always take a reading with a full white field or window, then a reading with the OSD and see if there is a difference. Target a part of the screen where there is no difference in the readings.
 
#3,638 ·
Hagar your "RGB" color balance showing on this graph is for your 0 ire measurement. The 0 ire is highlighted at the bottom of screen shot. This particular graph shows only your last measurement, or last highlighted measurement. Take a look at your "RGB" level tracking graph for the over all picture. BTW if you load the saved session and click on any of the other ire % points you will see the "RGB" color balance chart for each level one at a time. Doug G.
 
#3,639 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC /forum/post/18567276


Doug, my situation is getting gamma and grayscale as accurate as possible. My microspec can take readings without the OSD affecting the readings. The time is with all the interaction between the different input levels (5,10..20...) and the changes in luminance level and the x,y trying to reach target points.


You can always take a reading with a full white field or window, then a reading with the OSD and see if there is a difference. Target a part of the screen where there is no difference in the readings.

Thanks Glen, I will keep these tips in mind the next time I try to calibrate.
 
#3,640 ·
Have you gotten your projector calibrated and if so, what was the brightness you were able to obtain?


Looking at my RS2 report several post up, I have a Y (capital Y) brightness level of 6.06. Which according to several calibrators seems low. (really low)


So I have my projector running on high and still can't get over 6 fl.



I'm not sure how I could calibrate to get a brighter screen? I've tried using the projector Gamma from 2.2 to 2.5. And 2.5 Gamma seems to be dark but supposedly closer to the 2.25.


Could it be the projector?


Oh I'm not shooting on a 119 inch screen anymore, I reduce the image closer to 100" diagonal.


Any thoughts?


Dave
 
#3,641 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagar /forum/post/18577283


Have you gotten your projector calibrated and if so, what was the brightness you were able to obtain?


Looking at my RS2 report several post up, I have a Y (capital Y) brightness level of 6.06. Which according to several calibrators seems low. (really low)


So I have my projector running on high and still can't get over 6 fl.



I'm not sure how I could calibrate to get a brighter screen? I've tried using the projector Gamma from 2.2 to 2.5. And 2.5 Gamma seems to be dark but supposedly closer to the 2.25.


Could it be the projector?


Oh I'm not shooting on a 119 inch screen anymore, I reduce the image closer to 100" diagonal.


Any thoughts?


Dave

Hey Dave,


I had a very similar situation to you. My Pioneer FPJ1 was projecting on a 110" screen with a bulb that has around 500 hours on it. Lft was really low... I think around 2. I actually think it may be my meter that's bad. I have a new on coming in the next day or two. I will try to measure it again, and let you know what I come up with.


That said, when I watch anything on it, it looks plenty bright so I'm assuming it is the meter.
 
#3,642 ·
Getting good (I think) at understanding this CalMAN 3.7.


I was hoping fellow RS2/Pioneer PRO-FPJ1 would look at the "Y"(mines 5.6 and and it should be in the 12-14 range) in CalMAN and tell me what you got. Otherwise, I'm down to removing the VideoEQ, Octava splitter and trying to hook directly into my RS2 to see IF any including my Panasonic PD60 or even my Pioneer 1018 receiver could be causing my FL to be low.


And again, otherwise, I've contacted JVC and its going back for repair and then I'm hoping they might find when they replaced the focus block, they left something in that's causing this.


This report was done at 2.5 Gamma in my RS2, the other was done at 2.2 Gamma in the RS2.


But the VideoEQ negates the internal Gamma by adjusting to the target gamma I set of 2.25 in CalMAN




[/IMG]


Big kudo's to Ray Coronado. He's a ISF/THX certified calibrator who has taken the time to mentor me in the CalMAN ways and helped immensely.

You can see his outstanding home theater at http://www.socalht.com/ray/ .


Thanks Ray.



I came to the party a little late, hope enough RS2/Pioneer PRO-FPJ1 are still around.



Dave
 
#3,643 ·
I'm and avid reader and tinkerer. I've tried tweaks and recommendations and thought I had a nice picture on my Pioneer PRO-FPJ1. However, as a birthday present, my wife who knows nothing about home theater except to look in my magazines lying around the house gave me a present of an ISF certified calibration. Chad Billheimer (hdtvbychadb.com) came over yesterday and 4.5 hours later I was blown away! IMHO you can't beat a professional calibration. I highly recommend Chad for his meticulous work and knowledge.
 
#3,644 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hts1 /forum/post/18626994


I'm and avid reader and tinkerer. I've tried tweaks and recommendations and thought I had a nice picture on my Pioneer PRO-FPJ1. However, as a birthday present, my wife who knows nothing about home theater except to look in my magazines lying around the house gave me a present of an ISF certified calibration. Chad Billheimer (hdtvbychadb.com) came over yesterday and 4.5 hours later I was blown away! IMHO you can't beat a professional calibration. I highly recommend Chad for his meticulous work and knowledge.

Thanks for the kind words!


By the way, I got around 6.9 fL after calibration in movie mode. I made a "day" mode with slightly less accurate color and gamma that I nudged up above 7 fL. This was with an i1Pro meter factory recertified 2 weeks ago pointed at the screen.

I see many others are getting similar numbers, and other FPJ1's I've done in the past have been in that general range.
 
#3,645 ·
Greetings


Not a number I usually pay attention to. My own Pioneer measures about 11 fL after calibration on a Dalite Cinema Vision 1.3 screen at 102" Just took a shot of it.


Measured from my Minolta CS200 spectro.


regards
 
#3,646 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael TLV /forum/post/18628545


Greetings


Not a number I usually pay attention to. My own Pioneer measures about 11 fL after calibration on a Dalite Cinema Vision 1.3 screen at 102" Just took a shot of it.


Measured from my Minolta CS200 spectro.


regards

There is a huge difference between 11 and 6.9 ft-l even trying to ignor the number game.


I assume it was the screen size difference.
 
#3,647 ·
Hagar,


What kind of Da-lite screen do you have, matt white, HCCV, hp, etc.?


Thanks.
 
#3,648 ·
Its a matt white 1.0 gain.


By the way, in case anyone is interested, I've sent my projector back to JVC for the light issue. It might look great, the calibration may look good, but it was still way to dim and I couldn't put my finger on it till I got CalMan and started doing these calibrations.


So I'll find out Monday if JVC is going to pony up (if its the bulb) a new bulb. They generally only cover lamps for 90 days and I'm about 120 days into it with only 120 so hours.


Come on Monday...
 
#3,650 ·
WHOA!, I just got my invoice from JVC telling me what was wrong with my RS2. I wasn't taking crazy pills after all.


HD100OP-S-R OPTICAL UNIT $2416.12


LC33703-001C GEAR $83.79


LC42829-002A PACKING CUSHION $5.36


NAL0053-003 P.W.BOARD ASSY $705.77


BHL5009-S Lamp $399.00


Total: $3610.04



And they covered it all under warranty. Even the LAMP. Thanks JVC


I'm stoked to be getting this back and really seeing what all the fuss was about.


Dave
 
#3,651 ·
I asked the tech at JVC to explain why my RS2 had what I felt so much done to it. This is what he said,


First off

The optical block was defective again.

I don't have an explanation as to why it failed.

It was very dim.

After replacing the optical block I found that

the lamp was flickering which could not be seen

with the dim block.

I replaced the processor board reason being

the HDMI ports were to slow to lock up and were

not very stable.

I tested this projector many hours and was

Satisfied that the projector was back to factory

specs.


Here's hoping your RS2 is working well. I'll post another calibration report in the next week. I hope this is it. Why my optical block had to be replaced twice makes me wonder. ($2600 each time and JVC says policy is a third repair and they simply replace with it another unit, hopefully a RS25).


And I had some handshaking issues but I thought it was the VideoEQ pro. I know it has these issues too. It just goes to show you never know whats messing you up.


Dave


anyone have a RS2 schematic showing the inner workings? The review at http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...rUrl=Translate is just not that clear.


Thanks
 
#3,652 ·
I got my RS2 back fro JVC and the bulb was reset to "0" hours. Compared to what it looked like before, I can't say its blowing me away for having so much wrong.


I know this has been bantered around before however, the new bulb has about 10hrs of me dinking around with it. I find the instability is excessive.


Where as And I'm having a dickens of a time calibrating. Seems one click one way or the other shoots past my target goal. I'm wondering if a new lamp might lead to some instability initially? Color settling or something. IS this characteristic of a new bulb or could something still be wrong with my RS2?


At least before I was able to get a FLAT 10 IRE to 100IRE with little trouble, not now!



And I'm now seeing 9-11 fl as opposed to the 3-5 I was getting before. BUT I thought this should of been in the 15-19 with a new bulb or does a new bulb get brighter with hours?
 
#3,654 ·
Yes new bulbs can be unstable. They need a little run in time to settle down so you can get a good calibration, but like Freewheeler said you still need to at least set back to defaults and do some calibration on a new bulb as they tend to run out of red as they age and your old settings will be way off. Mine started to behave better at 100 + hours. The bad news is after it settles down you lose brightness, after its run in it will lose brightness much slower than initially though.
 
#3,656 ·
This is my best thus far. For others with a similar projector. I'd like to hear how it might compare to your own calibration. And for any one wanting to know what CalMAN and the VideoEQ pro can, I think this speaks highly of it.


Might be getting a handle on this.
[/IMG]



I always like to see a picture...

 

RS2.pdf 114.5390625k . file
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top