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Aton HDR44 HD over Cat5 - A Quick Review

25K views 107 replies 24 participants last post by  jparry 
#1 ·
I thought I'd write a quick review of the Aton HDR44 (KT - "kit") system, a 4x4 matrix HD component video switcher, which uses Cat5 distribution and includes IR repeating.


Short answer - awesome product, especially at the price point compared to other solutions.


While there are several very good Cat5-based HDTV distribution systems available, I chose the Aton for a couple of reasons:


1) Single-gang, in-wall receivers for each (remote) zone

2) Price

3) IR remote repeating built-in, with source routing and local repeating

4) Expandable to 8 zones for a 4x8 matrix system


Quickly, for anyone still reading that are unfamiliar with the basics of this type of product, the Aton HDR44 is a 4 input, 4 output matrix switcher that supports up to 1080p on component video with both analog and (coax) digital audio. The 4 output "zones" are fed by 2 Cat5 cables per zone, which can travel up to 500 feet to a single-gang receiving wall plate. At the wall plate, connections are available for component video, analog and digital audio, as well as an IR input for the included IR receiver and an IR output jack for local repeating.


As with any product correctly calling itself a 'matrix' switch, the Aton HDR44 allows each of the 4 zones to watch any one of the 4 sources, in any combination (all watch the same, all watch a different source, etc.).


Set up of the product is very straightforward (once you have the requisite Cat5 cables in the walls!) - with clearly labeled jacks on the back of the 1U high unit for each source and zone output. Simply connect each source's component video, RCA audio and coax digital audio to the unit, and plug the dual Cat5 cables for each output.


Of note here is the source-specific (1-4) IR repeater ouptuts (and the "all zones" broadcast output). that allow you to connect several identical source components without running into conflicts with the remote control. Without this feature (not unique to the Aton, but still an excellent implementation), conflicts arise when two (or more) identical components receive IR commands intended for only one. Real world example - in my case I have 3 DirecTV receivers that all share the same remote codes - if the IR signal was just 'broadcast', anyone changing a channel in one room would change the channel on 3 different receivers! [yes, DirecTV receivers have alternate remote codes to alieviate this issue - but the source routing makes it easy to solve this problem and simplified remote control macros/learning] But with the routing feature, the IR remote signal received from a particular zone is repeated *only* to the source component currently selected for that zone. Aton not only includes a set of IR repeaters for this task, but even includes nice black plastic sheilds to ensure the repeaters don't 'leak' signals to adjacent components.


Video and audio performance, from my brief testing so far, is excellent. My runs are ~75 feet of Cat5 (monoprice!) cable from the central closet location that houses the equipment. I have not adjusted the gain on the wall plates, but would still have great difficulty in detecting any quality difference between the DirecTV HD recever being fed as an Aton Cat5 source and an identical unit directly connected to my 61" Samsung LED DLP via HDMI.


The other feature to note here is the local IR repeating function - each wall plate has both an IR in (for the included IR receiver - which is comparable to a Xantech Dinky Link in size, but with a blue talk-back LED) and a local IR output. The IR ouput jack allows you to attach an emitter to repeat the IR signals received by the Aton receiver. I've effectively used this as a "Hidden Link" local repeater for the audio equipment located in a cabinet below the main TV. Just a nice integration feature that saved me both time and money...


This is the first 'real' product review I've written for AVSForum, so instead of just rambling on - if anyone has questions, I'll be happy to answer based on my experience.


On price - I won't post pricing information (I believe MSRP is $1795 for the kit), but Google is your friend. Make sure when pricing or ordering that you get the "KT" (kit) version (part # HDR44KT), which includes 4 wall plates making it a complete system in one box.


UPDATE (Dec 2010): I have since expanded my system using a second HDR44 that results in a 4x8 matrix. Still a great system 18 months later...


Jeff

 
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#27 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jparry /forum/post/18316075


I am just in the building stage, trying to plan out if I can economically centralize directv. Looking at my plans, if I put a TV everywhere I want/need one I might even bust the two unit limit of 8. Once I get in the house though, I know that I should be able to get a better feel for our needs.

I feel your pain... The important thing at that stage is to make sure you put enough Cat5e/Cat6 in the walls, so you *can* centralize. I've got several places in the house with hidden Cat5e in the walls (with digital photos to find them later!) ready for that purpose, and several more that have blank plates. The blank plates were the obvious places (bedrooms), the hidden wires less likely but still possible (master bathroom).
 
#28 ·
I apologize for reviving an old thread, but it sounds like there is a lot of experience with the Aton unit here.


I am wiring up my house currently with a composite cable of 2xRG6 and 2xCat5e and am ready to purchase the Aton HDR44 KT. I need 4 zones so this works perfect.


One question I have is, can the same source be displayed in all 4 zones?


Thanks
 
#32 ·
This may be a stupid question, but I'm new to distribution.



I may use iPhone/iPads with the upcoming RedEye rackmount unit for universal remote of my whole-house A/V. The gist of how RedEye works is that the rackmount unit receives WiFi signals, and then outputs IR over wire to the different zones you need. In my case, a zone will compromise of local and centralized devices - which RedEye supports.


Now obviously to get the IR from the rackmount unit to each zones' local components, I'm going to have to wire transmitters. My question is, would it seem possible to piggy-back onto the Aton IR wiring to accomplish this (for RedEye IR would be output from a centralized location to each Aton wall unit, which is then hooked up to IR trasmitters)?


The goal is to not have to modify the actual standard wiring for Aton in the walls. That way when I sell the house, the purchasers have the capability to do something similar to what I'm considering, or go the more traditional IR remote route. I'm trying to find solutions the leave lots of options - I figure that will lead to the best resale value.
 
#33 ·
If you mean 'transmit IR from the Aton box to the zone receivers', then no, can't do that. You might be able to steal the IR wire and splice it yourself - ick!


How many zones have local components? If you're going to spend $$ on iPod/iPads for each zone, why not another RedEye for each zone? (I assume that system can handle multiple receivers). Probably don't need the rack mount version for the zones. If RedEye can't do that, look at the iRule solution coupled with some Global Cache iTach units in each zone, and maybe the GC-100 in the rack...


Jeff
 
#34 ·
Thanks for getting back to me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor /forum/post/19158845


If you mean 'transmit IR from the Aton box to the zone receivers', then no, can't do that. You might be able to steal the IR wire and splice it yourself - ick!

I guess I don't really understand the IR in and out that's on the zone receivers. Could you explain what they do and how they work ... or is it pretty self explanatory from the instructions (I'm sure I can find them online)?

Quote:
How many zones have local components? If you're going to spend $$ on iPod/iPads for each zone, why not another RedEye for each zone? (I assume that system can handle multiple receivers). Probably don't need the rack mount version for the zones. If RedEye can't do that, look at the iRule solution coupled with some Global Cache iTach units in each zone, and maybe the GC-100 in the rack...


Jeff

In reality, every zone would have local components. How else can you turn the volume up on a TV? The standard RedEye for each zone however cannot work, because I need to also access content from a centralized location.


I'll look into the iRule and Global Cache stuff to see how that might fit into my setup.
 
#35 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raistlin_HT /forum/post/19159043


I guess I don't really understand the IR in and out that's on the zone receivers. Could you explain what they do and how they work ... or is it pretty self explanatory from the instructions (I'm sure I can find them online)?

On the zone receiver plate, the "IR in" is for the IR receiver you'd place in line of sight to repeat IR back to the central components hooked to the Aton unit. The "IR out" is a local emitter output - it repeats whatever is seen by the IR receiver. This works great for local components (I have all mine in cabinetry below the TV in the main room - this makes it really simple).

Quote:
In reality, every zone would have local components. How else can you turn the volume up on a TV? The standard RedEye for each zone however cannot work, because I need to also access content from a centralized location.


I'll look into the iRule and Global Cache stuff to see how that might fit into my setup.

The difficult part of using the iPod/iPad for A/V control is for the TV. The pro's would use RS232, but that's a whole other ballgame... You'll have to have a local IR repeater, and run an emitter up onto the front of the TV - wherever the IR sensor is. There are some emitter brands that claim you can place them even behind a TV and there will be enough reflection for the TV to catch it - YMMV...


I'm barely into the GC / iRule solution at the moment (have it all here, barely played with it yet), so my suggestion was mostly because I know the iRule software works with multiple receiver targets. RedEye may support that, too... (someone else will have to chime in on that one)


Jeff
 
#36 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor /forum/post/19159378


On the zone receiver plate, the "IR in" is for the IR receiver you'd place in line of sight to repeat IR back to the central components hooked to the Aton unit. The "IR out" is a local emitter output - it repeats whatever is seen by the IR receiver. This works great for local components (I have all mine in cabinetry below the TV in the main room - this makes it really simple).

Ah, I getcha.


What I'm curious about - what forces the IR in to go in one direction (from the receiver plate to the Aton unit)? Are the Tx and Rx actually directly built in, or is it simply a wire?

Quote:
The difficult part of using the iPod/iPad for A/V control is for the TV. The pro's would use RS232, but that's a whole other ballgame... You'll have to have a local IR repeater, and run an emitter up onto the front of the TV - wherever the IR sensor is. There are some emitter brands that claim you can place them even behind a TV and there will be enough reflection for the TV to catch it - YMMV...

I believe that's how the RedEye rackmount is intended to be used? Isn't the Aton using RS232 as the interface for passing IR? That's why I'm wondering if I can piggyback?

Quote:
I'm barely into the GC / iRule solution at the moment (have it all here, barely played with it yet), so my suggestion was mostly because I know the iRule software works with multiple receiver targets. RedEye may support that, too... (someone else will have to chime in on that one)


Jeff

No problem. As for the RedEye rackmount, it will support multiple targets. It has 8 IR emitters.
 
#37 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raistlin_HT /forum/post/19159408


What I'm curious about - what forces the IR in to go in one direction (from the receiver plate to the Aton unit)? Are the Tx and Rx actually directly built in, or is it simply a wire?

Yes, there are receiver/transmitters involved. Transmission at the remote/wallplate side and receiving at the Aton matrix switch.

Quote:
Isn't the Aton using RS232 as the interface for passing IR?

No, the Aton has no RS232 support (the IR is just encoded as voltage on the wire)

Quote:
No problem. As for the RedEye rackmount, it will support multiple targets. It has 8 IR emitters.

What I meant by targets is - can you have multiple RedEye units around the house and send commands to any of them from any iPhone/iPad? The iRule software allows that - and yes, each RedEye/GC device has multiple emitters (sorry for the 'target' confusion - difficult to describe when there's multiple network layers).


Jeff
 
#38 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor /forum/post/19159552


What I meant by targets is - can you have multiple RedEye units around the house and send commands to any of them from any iPhone/iPad? The iRule software allows that - and yes, each RedEye/GC device has multiple emitters (sorry for the 'target' confusion - difficult to describe when there's multiple network layers).


Jeff

You can have more than one RedEye - they would show up as different devices on the iPhone/iPad.


The issue with the regular RedEye is that it is specifically for one room. So if you have centralized and local devices, it wouldn't be an option. The rackmount unit can communicate with up to 8 rooms (I'll have to verify whether it is using RC232 or sending voltage like the Aton) - and multiple devices can access it at once.
 
#39 ·
Finally made a decision on the AA Avatrix vs Aton HDR44. Based on reading the Avatrix thread, I was concerned with some people having trouble getting the IR routing to work with Direct TV receivers (which will be 3 of my 4 sources). Also, the fact that the IR receivers weren't included with the Avatrix was a negative for me. One the other hand, the 4 input of the Aton vs 8 on the Avatrix is really a bare minimum, but I think I can make it work.


So, finally pulled the trigger on the Aton HDR44KT and ordered it tonight. Will start with one, and it all goes well, will buy a second kit for a 4x8 matrix. Fingers crossed!
 
#40 ·
Here is my update:


This device is amazing! Jautor is right on - I got it up and running with no problems... Well, I should clarify that the main issue was retro wiring the Cat 5 wires to the outlets. Once that was done, installation was easy. I have Cat 5 runs up to 125 feet, and the HD picture is perfect. I am using three HR24 Direct TV DVRs as the sources, and will add a Bluray player with netflix streaming soon. The IR switching on the device seems almost instantaneous and everything works as advertised. My wife figured out to use everything in about 5 minutes.


One (minor) gripe. The Direct TV remotes can now control everything (TV, Satellite, etc) except the Aton source itself. The Direct TV remotes have no learning capability. Aton only supplies 1 remote with the kit and my wife likes the direct TV remote. She doesn't want a separate large learning remote. So it seems the only choice is to buy more of the Aton remotes for each of the sets. I know it's a minor thing, but it really would have been nice to be down to one remote...


All in all, extremely pleased with this purchase and will now be buying a second kit to make a 4x8 system.
 
#41 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tds1 /forum/post/19379429


One (minor) gripe. The Direct TV remotes can now control everything (TV, Satellite, etc) except the Aton source itself. The Direct TV remotes have no learning capability. Aton only supplies 1 remote with the kit and my wife likes the direct TV remote. She doesn't want a separate large learning remote. So it seems the only choice is to buy more of the Aton remotes for each of the sets. I know it's a minor thing, but it really would have been nice to be down to one remote...

Yeah, this is the problem with non-learning remotes. There have been a few switching devices that can masquerade as a "known" device by learning a new code set from another remote... I use the URC WR7 learning remote (now only $20 at NewEgg) in most of my zones, it's not too different from the DirecTV remote and isn't much larger, either.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...120015&Tpk=wr7


Glad you got it working without any trouble, and yes, getting the wiring in place is always the hard part...


Jeff
 
#42 ·
Thank you jautor for the fine review on the Aton matrix switcher. It is nice you spent the time to provide your direct experience with the product. I too am looking for a matrix devise for my audio video. I had been looking at a matrix devise from Wyre Storm ( www.wyrestorm.com ). I googled the Aton and got to Smarthouse.com. They had another product
http://www.smarthome.com/77814/CE-la...-CAT5-Output/p .

made by CE labs that had hdmi inputs for the sources. Is there reason why you when with composite instead of hdmi? I am new to the forum and hope I am not out line with my question or addressing other products on your thread. I have started thread on my home theater build which I feel will be very exciting and hope you will check it out. It is called marks from the ground up theater build. I am not sure how to add a link to my build on my replys. Thanks!!
 
#44 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by IGO2XS /forum/post/19383163


Thank you jautor for the fine review on the Aton matrix switcher. It is nice you spent the time to provide your direct experience with the product. I too am looking for a matrix devise for my audio video. I had been looking at a matrix devise from Wyre Storm ( www.wyrestorm.com ). I googled the Aton and got to Smarthouse.com. They had another product
http://www.smarthome.com/77814/CE-la...-CAT5-Output/p .

made by CE labs that had hdmi inputs for the sources. Is there reason why you when with composite instead of hdmi? I am new to the forum and hope I am not out line with my question or addressing other products on your thread. I have started thread on my home theater build which I feel will be very exciting and hope you will check it out. It is called marks from the ground up theater build. I am not sure how to add a link to my build on my replys. Thanks!!

You're welcome, glad you found it helpful. I went with Component (not composite, component is 1080i/720p capable) video switching because it was cheaper, has none of the issues of HDMI, and I see no noticeable picture quality differences (even though you are going through extra digital-analog conversions).


No experience with that particular CE Labs switch, but I do have some of their other products, and they're good and solid. There are a number of HDMI-over-cat5 switches (many more now than when I bought my Aton 18 months ago), and with the HDBaseT specification release, I expect we'll see new models soon that are cheaper and more functional, and only use 1 cat5 cable.



Jef
 
#45 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BradKas /forum/post/19384032


So two units can be combined to form a 4x8?

Any quirks with wiring or control? Does Aton have any information on this?


Thanks

Yes, 2 Aton units can easily be joined to create a 4x8 matrix. There are instructions in the manual on how to do this, but it's very simple. There are loop outputs for component video and digital audio that you chain to the second unit. Add an RJ45 patch cable between the two for control, and eight RCA Y-splitters for analog audio and you're done.


The analog audio splitters are the only unexpected piece you'll need. They didn't put analog audio-loop-outputs on the unit - I assume because (1) its simple to do with cables, and (2) there's absolutely no space in that 1U chassis for another connector!


Jeff
 
#48 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chobe /forum/post/19459150


I know this is a older post, hopefully Jeff is still listening.....I was wondering with a system such as the ATON HDR, how does one fit video/audio files stored on a media server PC or YouTube videos into the mix?

Zzzzz.. Hmmm, huh, what? I'm awake!


As long as you can get the device or HTPC to output component video and audio, it'll work fine with any of these types of switches. Just hook it up as a source, use a compatible resolution, run the IR blaster from the switch to the streamer, and you're done...


Now, the more general question is does your HTPC support component video output? Some video adapters can do this such that you only need a passive adapter cable (from VGA port to component video). But that's a question for a different forum...


(oh, woo hoo! Post #1000! What do I win?)


Jeff
 
#49 ·
Are the outputs from the Component and Audio Loop Outs just normal signals? If I want my audio receiver that is tied to Output 1 to be next to the HDR44, it seems like I have 2 options:


1) Run coax audio from the wall plate all the way back to the receiver

2) Put the receiver right next to the HDR44 and just output the audio that would be tied to Output 1 directly to a receiver.


The use case is that I have a wall mount TV and don't have anywhere to put a receiver that is convenient, near the TV, so it is just easier to put it by the HDR44. In theory, I could see myself putting a few receivers, one for each room, next to the HDR44. You might ask then, why am I transmitting audio and video to each room, but the video + IR is pretty convenient over a system that just does video, plus another system that would do IR.
 
#50 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by EBeatles /forum/post/19532220


Are the outputs from the Component and Audio Loop Outs just normal signals? If I want my audio receiver that is tied to Output 1 to be next to the HDR44, it seems like I have 2 options:


1) Run coax audio from the wall plate all the way back to the receiver

2) Put the receiver right next to the HDR44 and just output the audio that would be tied to Output 1 directly to a receiver.

The loop outputs are 'normal', but note that there is only component video and digital (coax) audio - there are no analog L/R audio loops. If you need L/R analog audio, a y-cable can be used to split the signal (which is also what you do to expand the system to a 4x8).


The loop outputs are not 'zone' outputs, however, they are source outputs. So if you place your receiver next to the Aton, you'd likely need to run 4 digital coax connections to the receiver (one for each source, assuming you're using all 4). If you have the cabling available to return the signal from the zone, it may be easier to operate, since the zone output obviously switches with the source. Otherwise you'll need to account for switching the AVR's inputs in your remote control scheme...


Jeff
 
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