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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series)

212K views 1K replies 205 participants last post by  Augerhandle 
#1 ·
I did not see a thread for the 638 series.


I was not able to find a lot of information on this model which I recently purchased from dell.


I'll take a shot and create a thread on the 638 series.

638 Description:


An affordable way to get into 3D viewing, the 73-inch Mitsubishi WD-73638 1080p Home Cinema HDTV features DLP technology, which is up to 1,000 times faster than LCD technology--providing for a more realistic, sharper 2D and 3D viewing experience. It comes equipped with 3D-ready viewing technology, providing the best option for enjoying 3D content in the home.


Mitsubishi's 73-inch Diamond Series WD-73638 1080p DLP Home Cinema HDTV utilizes the same core DLP technology that's used in the vast majority of 3D movie theaters. DLP technology is up to 1,000 times faster than LCD technology--providing for a more realistic, sharper 2D and 3D viewing experience. It comes equipped with 3D-ready viewing technology, providing the best option for enjoying 3D content in the home.


The 638 Series features Mitsubishi's 6-Color Processor, which offers crisp, bright, realistic color that produces whiter whites and a wider range of color, plus a 120hz sub-frame rate to ensure a blur-free picture during fast action movies and fast-paced sports. Other features include three HDMI ports, stereo speakers with 20 watts of total power, and Energy Star 4.0 qualification.


Key Features

73-inch Digital Light Processing (DLP) panel uses Texas Instruments Digital Light Processing technology for rear-projection TVs to create the picture you see on screen.

3D Ready Experience the new 3D technologies applied to many recent movies and video games. Immerse yourself in your favorite video game, movie, or sporting event displayed in 3D (requires optional 3D eyewear).

1080p Full HD resolution (1920 x 1080 pixels)


Mitsubishi's Plush1080p upscaling.Plush1080p 5G 12-Bit video processing converts lower-resolution signals to 1080p to eliminate jagged pixelated imagery.

120Hz Sub-Frame Rate for more fluid, natural motion from fast-moving video such as sports, action movies, and more.

6-Color Processor takes the three primary colors (red, green, and blue) of the video signal and extracts three secondary colors (cyan, yellow, magenta) in order to individually process each color for greater accuracy.

2 stereo speakers (10w x 2) for 20 watts of total power

Dolby Digital 5.1 sound processing

Integrated HDTV tuner receives both over-the-air HDTV broadcasts (received via an antenna) and non-scrambled digital cable broadcasts, including non-scrambled HDTV cable programming.

HDMI Control (CEC): HDMI devices with Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) capabilities may be compatible with the TV's HDMI Control feature. Compatible devices can receive control signals through the HDMI connection, allowing the TV's remote control to operate some functions of these devices.

Energy Star 4.0 qualified


v43 Service Manual - https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...thkey=CKaWseYC
 
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#52 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Divine_Madcat /forum/post/19564419


Unfortunately, alot of the confusion comes from maker's terminology. The TV does 120Hz in what they call "sub-frame" - the actual assembly of the frame is done at 120Hz, but each full frame is refreshed at 60Hz. The 3D is a little more difficult for me to explain, but in the end, the 3D effect ends up at 60Hz as well. No part of these TVs actually refresh the full image at 120Hz.

Thanks for the info. I could have searched for it I'm sure, but it's nice seeing a response in the thread of a TV you own (or will about to).


I bought the WD-65C10 for a pretty good deal and missed the whole sub-frame stuff. The TV will be used almost primarily for an OTA HD antenna (football and basketball mainly) and will have a PC hooked up via HDMI to watch videos and the such.


Will this sub-frame 120Hz vs. an actual 120Hz effect those pictures? Will I notice? I'm not a video buff but I want a smooth picture. I'm really excited about the TV and would hate to send it back because I missed this detail.
 
#53 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick2822
Thanks for the info. I could have searched for it I'm sure, but it's nice seeing a response in the thread of a TV you own (or will about to).


I bought the WD-65C10 for a pretty good deal and missed the whole sub-frame stuff. The TV will be used almost primarily for an OTA HD antenna (football and basketball mainly) and will have a PC hooked up via HDMI to watch videos and the such.


Will this sub-frame 120Hz vs. an actual 120Hz effect those pictures? Will I notice? I'm not a video buff but I want a smooth picture. I'm really excited about the TV and would hate to send it back because I missed this detail.
i think that the 120hz sub frame is just a gimmick kind of like the 600hz thing is for plasma tv....it means that when you watch blurays and tv you get all the feel of 120hz(cos the DLP is 100percent digital fast)...but when you hook it up to a PC its still 60hz. Same with plasma...Those things are so freakin fast they just label them as 600hz...but when used as a PC monitor...60hz.
 
#54 ·
Yeah I have the same question. I ordered a 73c10 thinking it qualified and not until I printed the rebate form (which you cannot do without a serial number) did I see the note that the only sets that qualify are LT-55154, WD-60738, WD-65738, WD-73738, WD-82738,

WD-65838, WD-73838, WD-82838.


Odd since most of not all of those will not require an adapter after the firmware update that just came out. I am wondering if this footnote only applies to the 2 pair of 3d glasses part of the offer. I sent in the form anyway and as soon as I hear something I will post.


I am going to be a little pissed
if this set doesn't qualify since there was no way to know until I had the set. Why would all the models be in the drop down to select if they don't qualify?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryst999 /forum/post/19374911


I just ordered a 60638, does anyone know if this qualifies for the free 3d starter kit? I thought it was all 2010 models but according to the PDF after you fill out the form it does not list the 638 series, has anyone gotten their 638 model approved for the free 3d set?


Also does anyone have any decent color settings that they would like to share? I know calibration changes to match specific needs but i'd like to see what other people are setting their sets to.
 
#55 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snayte /forum/post/19569770


Yeah I have the same question. I ordered a 73c10 thinking it qualified and not until I printed the rebate form (which you cannot do without a serial number) did I see the note that the only sets that qualify are LT-55154, WD-60738, WD-65738, WD-73738, WD-82738,

WD-65838, WD-73838, WD-82838.


Odd since most of not all of those will not require an adapter after the firmware update that just came out. I am wondering if this footnote only applies to the 2 pair of 3d glasses part of the offer. I sent in the form anyway and as soon as I hear something I will post.


I am going to be a little pissed
if this set doesn't qualify since there was no way to know until I had the set. Why would all the models be in the drop down to select if they don't qualify?

Yes, they do qualify. People here and on other forums have called mits and verified this (as long as you ordered by the cutoff date). You should have no problem getting your kit.
 
#56 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19554273


it seems that everyone's biggest gripe with this TV is PQ when they're in PC input...I dont have this tv yet but it doesn't take an owner to know that no matter what TV technology you have when in the "pc input" you're not going to have all of the features of the tv. as you would if you were in HDMI or component for example

Can you supply a link to repsonses where you read this? If anything, I would think the 638/C10 series of sets would benefit from a PC (or video processor) being hooked up to in. Mainly because these sets lack the better video processor that the 738/838 series have. Example - Smooth120 (for "blur"), Plush1080p 5G 12-bit video processing (for 1080p upscaling of lower resolution content - C10/658 state as not using 5G version of this chip), EdgeEnhance, Dark Detailer (838 only), PerfectColor & PerfectTint are only on the higher model series. But most that care about video quality would disable these features, except for PerfectColor & PerfectTint since they will allow you to calibrate the set better. But the PC can be used to make up for the lack of PerfectColor & PerfectTint existing on the C10/638 (when playing video from the PC - HDTV, movies, photos, etc.). Plus with PowerDVD you can playback DVDs with better upscaling, along with making those DVDs 3D (with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter).


So long as the PC fills in for the features that are missing, you should see little difference between the 2010 DLP line of HDTVs. But the PC has to be set to 1080p output so that it avoids using the lesser quality Plush1080p (none 5G) upscaler (the one in the C10/658 isn't as good as the one in the 738/838). Also, the Dark Detailer (on the 838 only) will give you better blacks (less black crush) than on all the other models of this HDTV, which is scene specific (when a scene has dark and light elements). And there's no way a PC can fill in for the Dark Detailer since that's a physical iris in the display of the 838 sets.


Sounds to me that the people that reported worse video quality when using a PC didn't calibrate the HDTV when using the PC (using both the PC and the HDTV calibration options).
 
#57 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19564341


TRY these settings for your tv ...they're professionally Calibrated for the 7 series 60inch...let us know how you like them.


User Menu Settings


* Picture Modes

o Picture Mode : Natural

o Color Temperature : Low

o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard

* Picture Settings

o Contrast : 50

o Brightness : 33

o Color : 31

o Tint : 30

o Sharpness : 31

o Color Temperature : Low

o Video Noise : Off

o Edge Enhance : Off

o DeepField Imager : Off

Thanks, I did try those settings but it did not look good. Your model is different from 60638. What is video noise? Has anyone watched football yet on the 60638 60 inch in HD yet? I dont want blurred or ghosting while watching football or any fast action/moving sport. I'am still waiting for satellite to update my reciever to HD. Thanks for all the help. I read bad reviews on the cheaper HDMI cables not giving proper signal, etc. and the fix was the expensive MC's. I got the 700 HD High Speed HDMI cable, haven't used it yet, but that should be ok or am i wrong?
 
#58 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 /forum/post/19572076


Thanks, I did try those settings but it did not look good. Your model is different from 60638. What is video noise? Has anyone watched football yet on the 60638 60 inch in HD yet? I dont want blurred or ghosting while watching football or any fast action/moving sport. I'am still waiting for satellite to update my reciever to HD. Thanks for all the help. I read bad reviews on the cheaper HDMI cables not giving proper signal, etc. and the fix was the expensive MC's. I got the 700 HD High Speed HDMI cable, haven't used it yet, but that should be ok or am i wrong?

These sets shouldn't show blur or ghosting, that's mainly an issue with LED/LCD HDTV sets. Since the C10/638 sets have a lesser quality video processor (not the Plush1080p G5) chip your non 1080p video will not look as good. Also realize, that not all broadcasts are in 1080p (FOX has a lot of programming at 720p). Hopefully your new HD rec. does the "upscaling" for you instead of your HDTV (will have a setting to always output 1080p).


As for cables, go to monoprice and get a "high speed" or "category 2" HDMI cable (they're both the same) for a few bucks. The cables are digital so there is no quality difference from Monster Cables vs. others. Only that they're labeled "high speed" or "category 2" HDMI. These cables can handle a bandwidth of 340Mhz. But don't think of these as HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 cables, that's the specifications (features) of a HDMI version at the device level. HDMI standards are designed to scale. So while the "max" bandwidth is currently set at "340Mhz", the specifications use more and more of that available bandwidth as features are added in different versions of HDMI. And not all features/specifications are added to a HDTV. Example: A HDMI v1.3a-1.3c set doesn't mean it has DeepColor, it's an optional specification for that version of HDMI. Not to mention, there's no source content you can buy that uses DeepColor (Blu-rays, DVDs, etc.). Most people don't realize this simple fact and say that there are no bandwidth differences between v1.3 and v1.4, which there is - at the device level.
 
#59 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 /forum/post/19572076


Thanks, I did try those settings but it did not look good. Your model is different from 60638. What is video noise? Has anyone watched football yet on the 60638 60 inch in HD yet? I dont want blurred or ghosting while watching football or any fast action/moving sport. I'am still waiting for satellite to update my reciever to HD. Thanks for all the help. I read bad reviews on the cheaper HDMI cables not giving proper signal, etc. and the fix was the expensive MC's. I got the 700 HD High Speed HDMI cable, haven't used it yet, but that should be ok or am i wrong?

I cannot emphasize this enough - the monster cable is overpriced junk. Most HDMI cables are just fine, the ones from Monoprice especially. Because they are pure digital connections, your REALLY have to work to make a bad quality cable.
 
#60 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 /forum/post/19572076


Thanks, I did try those settings but it did not look good. Your model is different from 60638. What is video noise? Has anyone watched football yet on the 60638 60 inch in HD yet? I dont want blurred or ghosting while watching football or any fast action/moving sport. I'am still waiting for satellite to update my reciever to HD. Thanks for all the help. I read bad reviews on the cheaper HDMI cables not giving proper signal, etc. and the fix was the expensive MC's. I got the 700 HD High Speed HDMI cable, haven't used it yet, but that should be ok or am i wrong?

just got the TV today and I didnt like them either...WAYto dim....but ive been tinkering around for the past 2 hours while watching the messenger...


I found the perfect settings for me finally. anyone is welcome to try them.


while the other settings looked good i really didnt like having to switch from the different modes for sports, and bluray, and tv. So I tried to get one mode just right to watch for everything..and also was Bright. I dont have a controlled lit room so i wanted the tv to be bright enough to handle daytime viewing.


and ive come up with this..



I found the perfect settings for me finally. anyone is welcome to try them.


while the other settings looked good i really didnt like having to switch from the different modes for sports, and bluray, and tv. So I tried to get one mode just right to watch for everything..and also was Bright. I dont have a controlled lit room so i wanted the tv to be bright enough to handle daytime viewing.


and ive come up with this..



o Picture Mode : Bright

o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard

* Picture Settings

o Contrast : 72

o Brightness : 46

o Color :38

o Tint : 9

o Sharpness : 0

o Color Temperature : high

o Video Noise : Off

o film mode : off


These work very well for bluray as well..


these are all with HDMI(high speed) cable hookup


I know 72 for contrast seems nuts but try watching a movie with a lot of snow in(like skiing)...or scene where the sun is shining on a persons white shirt..you cant make out any detail in white scenes..just looks like a white blotch. 72 contrast helps this alot.(on bright mode)



btw i have the 60638 too but i went with those settings i found because i couldnt find any for ours lol....


also video noise is suppose to get rid of

screen "static" like used to happen with over the air analog channels. or when to many wires are touching each other. this would be a good feature if not the loss of detail in the picture.
 
#61 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19572316


just got the TV today and I didnt like them either...WAYto dim....but ive been tinkering around for the past 2 hours while watching the messenger...

If you can, pick up a calibration DVD or you can download HD 709 here - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 After you calibrate your set using something like that then "tweak" the settings while watching a high quality movie in HD along with the lighting you watch your HDTV (lights on/off - daylight, night, etc.). But I would recommend that the Picture Mode be set to "Natural" - unless you have your set in a bright room. That's because it will give you more of a dynamic range and less chance of over saturation or blow-out of luminance.
 
#62 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 /forum/post/19572418


If you can, pick up a calibration DVD or you can download HD 709 here - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 After you calibrate your set using something like that then "tweak" the settings while watching a high quality movie in HD along with the lighting you watch your HDTV (lights on/off - daylight, night, etc.). But I would recommend that the Picture Mode be set to "Natural" - unless you have your set in a bright room. That's because it will give you more of a dynamic range and less chance of over saturation or blow-out of luminance.

i tried the natural and its just too dim...i could see it i was in a basement or in a room with no windows(like a theater room) but tweaking it from there is pointless for me(regular living area with sunroom on one side and kitchen window on other)...im definitely trying to be careful of blowout of luminance..thats why i want to get brightness down as much as possible. had the contrast down more but couldnt makeout faces in dark scenes. so settled on 85.


i tweaked from settings that were professionally calibrated for 738 60inch..my goal was just trying to get as close to 6500k as possible with out being in torch mode..just by going by eye
 
#63 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19572536


i tried the natural and its just too dim...i could see it i was in a basement or in a room with no windows(like a theater room) but tweaking it from there is pointless for me(regular living area with sunroom on one side and kitchen window on other)...im definitely trying to be careful of blowout of luminance..thats why i want to get brightness down as much as possible. had the contrast down more but couldnt makeout faces in dark scenes. so settled on 85.


i tweaked from settings that were professionally calibrated for 738 60inch..my goal was just trying to get as close to 6500k as possible with out being in torch mode..just by going by eye

There's not a lot of color/tint controls on these models to dial everything in for an ideal calibration/setup. If you use a PC as your main content delivery source you can pickup on calibration where the HDTV itself is short. But that will only work for video that you output from your PC of course. For these lower end sets that's the best setup - to use a HTPC as the primary video source and let the PC do all the upscaling, color correction, and aspect ratio adjustments.


I ordered the 65C10 form Dell during the special they had this Monday. I was on the fence between getting the 73" 838 or waiting until 2011 or 2012 when Mitsubishi will start using a full frame 1920x1080 DLP chip - then full HD 3D will be possible on DLP sets. But for the price and considering I output all my video through my HTPC, this set should do - for now. And since the price was so little, I'm not locked into owning the set for 7-10yrs like those that spend $2-3K on a HDTV. There will be more reasons to upgrade in the near future (2-4 years) since 3D is just starting out and there will be affordable 70" LCD/Plasma sets within the next 1-2yrs. But I still think DLP rear projections are a better experience. Sure the LCD/Plasma sets look nice and are razor sharp (most of the good ones are). But because of their current size it'snot an immersive experience. And a good 65" LCD/Plasma will cost you $2-5.5K with both LCD and Plasmas having their own negatives (Plasma it's glare and LCD it's contrast/black crush). Hard to spend that kind of cash given you still have flaws and live with it for the next 7-10 years.
 
#64 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 /forum/post/19572646


There's not a lot of color/tint controls on these models to dial everything in for an ideal calibration/setup. If you use a PC as your main content delivery source you can pickup on calibration where the HDTV itself is short. But that will only work for video that you output from your PC of course. For these lower end sets that's the best setup - to use a HTPC as the primary video source and let the PC do all the upscaling, color correction, and aspect ratio adjustments.

So now i understand what the pc thing is all about...but... i LOVE blu-ray and I already have a lcd and a plasma..cant afford the led yet...at least not in the size i want...and so i did some research and i believed enough in the Mitsu DLP (even the entry level TV) that i could calibrate enough to 6500 to my liking(doesn't have to be dead on) to have a gorgeous HD picture. I have to say I already think the picture is far nicer than my sammy plasma that i bought last year.
 
#65 ·
My 60" 638 was delivered yesterday. It is AWESOME!! The only thing I changed was bump the brilliant factory setting down to natural. All else is good as is. DirecTV HD looks splendid, and BluRays are enthralling!! Sound out of the speakers is more than adequate for me (note: I'm completely deaf in my left ear; right ear still works fine.)
 
#66 ·
also my 60" 638 was delivered yesterday and so far i love it,3d is something special to watch.im using a ps3 and i have call of duty black ops,gt5,but the best ps3 game in 3d is wipeout hd 3d wow it looks amazing.i watch my hd channels on brilliant factory setting but man i made a mistake i hooked it up Component Cables and my wife was quick to tell me the picture was not good at all so i hooked it up hdmi cable and wow there was a big difference.know i need to find 3d movies local that are not 40 dollars.
 
#67 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiabulldawg /forum/post/19573791


also my 60" 638 was delivered yesterday and so far i love it,3d is something special to watch.im using a ps3 and i have call of duty black ops,gt5,but the best ps3 game in 3d is wipeout hd 3d wow it looks amazing.i watch my hd channels on brilliant factory setting but man i made a mistake i hooked it up Component Cables and my wife was quick to tell me the picture was not good at all so i hooked it up hdmi cable and wow there was a big difference.know i need to find 3d movies local that are not 40 dollars.

I got the 60638 60" on last friday, any tips on video noise setting or color temp.? Also what HDMI cable are you using? How many do I need? Thanks I like the t.v. so far, but my satellite provider has not upgraded my reciever for HD yet and the PS3 we bought is for christmas, so I have yet to see what this t.v. can do. But at the regular 480i signal were getting is still pretty good, but a bit grainny of course, mind you were coming from an old 27" CRT that we had for over 10 years,lol.
 
#68 ·
i made that post before i turned it on this morning and now i got have to say it does not look good at all hooked up to my cable box.i guess last night it looked better because it was very dark in the house,man i love 3d but the hd channels have to not look grainny and they do bad on this tv.im going to return it as im not giving up great hd tv for 3d.sportscenter looks so bad i dont know what to say.
 
#69 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiabulldawg /forum/post/19574447


i made that post before i turned it on this morning and now i got have to say it does not look good at all hooked up to my cable box.i guess last night it looked better because it was very dark in the house,man i love 3d but the hd channels have to not look grainny and they do bad on this tv.im going to return it as im not giving up great hd tv for 3d.sportscenter looks so bad i dont know what to say.

Before you return a perfectly good TV - what kind of TV/Cable service do you have? Are the HD settings properly configured ?
 
#71 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiabulldawg /forum/post/19574717


charter service hd box,what do you mean Are the HD settings properly configured,in my hd box?i want to keep it bad but if the channels look like this my wife will kill me!

Yes, i am asking if you HD Box is properly setup. Without knowing your specific model, its hard to give instructions, but in general, most boxes have some setup options, specifically what output to have (native resolution, upscaling).


Also, what channels look bad; are the 720P HD channels, or the 1080i channels? People here will happily help, you should give us some details to work with.
 
#73 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiabulldawg /forum/post/19575273


it only does 1080i,also maybe im sitting to close im between 6 and 8 feet?

6ft is a bit close for these sets, at least for cable TV. 8-10 feet should be okay though. The Plush1080p processor up converts any non 1080p signal to 1080p and the video processor on these sets isn't as good as the one one the 738/838, which have the 5G version. It's probably a combination of the video processor and crappy picture quality from certain cable TV channels that is causing the problems you're seeing.


If the picture quality looks great with Blu-ray content then it's not your HDTV that's the weak link. Alternatives are to use a HTPC as the source for all your content or a external video processor that does better upscaling/clean-up of bad TV channels. Sadly, either of those solutions adds to the total cost of the HDTV.


Anyone that can't feed the C10/638 series of HDTVs a 1080p signal for all of their cable TV and Movies should seriously consider getting the 738/838 series since they do a much better job at video scaling for non-1080p content.
 
#75 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiabulldawg /forum/post/19576361


Lucid69,when you say it upscales to 1080p are you saying it will do that from my hd cable box because the tv says it is doing 1080i not 1080p?

Correct, if it's not a 1080p signal then it goes through the Plush1080 video processor and made 1080p. If you feed the set a 1080p signal it doesn't need to be converted to 1080p. Typically the more you process something the worse it will look. Of course, a high quality video processor or PC software can do wonders for lower resolution content. But they can't make them look like blu-ray. After all the content itself is flawed since it's not high resolution and at the same bandwidth as a blu-ray movie.


Try comparing the picture quality watching something like David Letterman or Leno (NBC Night News is another good one). Those shows are usually output at 1080p and have good picture quality. I find most "sports" shows re-compress an already compressed video clip of games so they look terrible, more so on bigger screens. I saw the same problem on LCD/Plasma sets at the store but since the sets were smaller it didn't look as bad.


For me - I use over the air HDTV, internet TV, and blu-ray movies as my sources which all go through my HTPC. I just don't see value in having 100's of channels I'll never watch and paying 70-100 a month for them. When in reality I usually only watch 4-5 TV shows which are broadcasted for free. But if I did need more programming I would just add Netflix and Hulu Plus which would give me more content for a lot less than a cable TV provider can/does.
 
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