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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series)

212K views 1K replies 205 participants last post by  Augerhandle 
#1 ·
I did not see a thread for the 638 series.


I was not able to find a lot of information on this model which I recently purchased from dell.


I'll take a shot and create a thread on the 638 series.

638 Description:


An affordable way to get into 3D viewing, the 73-inch Mitsubishi WD-73638 1080p Home Cinema HDTV features DLP technology, which is up to 1,000 times faster than LCD technology--providing for a more realistic, sharper 2D and 3D viewing experience. It comes equipped with 3D-ready viewing technology, providing the best option for enjoying 3D content in the home.


Mitsubishi's 73-inch Diamond Series WD-73638 1080p DLP Home Cinema HDTV utilizes the same core DLP technology that's used in the vast majority of 3D movie theaters. DLP technology is up to 1,000 times faster than LCD technology--providing for a more realistic, sharper 2D and 3D viewing experience. It comes equipped with 3D-ready viewing technology, providing the best option for enjoying 3D content in the home.


The 638 Series features Mitsubishi's 6-Color Processor, which offers crisp, bright, realistic color that produces whiter whites and a wider range of color, plus a 120hz sub-frame rate to ensure a blur-free picture during fast action movies and fast-paced sports. Other features include three HDMI ports, stereo speakers with 20 watts of total power, and Energy Star 4.0 qualification.


Key Features

73-inch Digital Light Processing (DLP) panel uses Texas Instruments Digital Light Processing technology for rear-projection TVs to create the picture you see on screen.

3D Ready Experience the new 3D technologies applied to many recent movies and video games. Immerse yourself in your favorite video game, movie, or sporting event displayed in 3D (requires optional 3D eyewear).

1080p Full HD resolution (1920 x 1080 pixels)


Mitsubishi's Plush1080p upscaling.Plush1080p 5G 12-Bit video processing converts lower-resolution signals to 1080p to eliminate jagged pixelated imagery.

120Hz Sub-Frame Rate for more fluid, natural motion from fast-moving video such as sports, action movies, and more.

6-Color Processor takes the three primary colors (red, green, and blue) of the video signal and extracts three secondary colors (cyan, yellow, magenta) in order to individually process each color for greater accuracy.

2 stereo speakers (10w x 2) for 20 watts of total power

Dolby Digital 5.1 sound processing

Integrated HDTV tuner receives both over-the-air HDTV broadcasts (received via an antenna) and non-scrambled digital cable broadcasts, including non-scrambled HDTV cable programming.

HDMI Control (CEC): HDMI devices with Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) capabilities may be compatible with the TV's HDMI Control feature. Compatible devices can receive control signals through the HDMI connection, allowing the TV's remote control to operate some functions of these devices.

Energy Star 4.0 qualified


v43 Service Manual - https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...thkey=CKaWseYC
 
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#177 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick2822 /forum/post/19600017


So if I'm understanding what discussion on this thread, the C10 (638) comes with a low-end video processor. Any signal that is put into the TV that isn't 1080p is converted by this low-end processor.


This TV will be used primarily for OTA HD signal. I get NBC in 1080i, FOX at 720p, ABC at 720p, PBS at 1080i, etc, etc. Will the video processor, while upping those to 1080p, effect the picture quality? If it does, it sounds like I can either get a cable card (any recommendations?) for the computer that will be hooked up it or an av receiver that does the conversion to 1080p.

Since you're using OTA HD signal then just get a cheap dual tuner card for your PC - they can be had for like 30-60 bucks. That way, regardless of the station signal (720p, 1080i, 1080p, etc.) your PC will scale and output it to your HDTV as 1080p.


Other ways to avoid/limit the built in video processor is to get an external video processor - either in your AV rec. or like the DVDO Edge. Another alternative is to set the output from your cable/sat. box to 1080p (if it supports it).


It really depends on your viewing habits. If you watch a lot of TV then you'll need to look for one of those alternatives to make your set look it's best. But the best part about it all, all the alternatives will make even a high end/dollar set look better. There are video processors out there that costs thousands of dollars and will make even the highest end HDTV internal video processor look weak. Bottom line, if you never seen what the best of the best looks like, you'll not know the difference to begin with. But your bank account sure will.
 
#178 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick2822 /forum/post/19600017


This TV will be used primarily for OTA HD signal. I get NBC in 1080i, FOX at 720p, ABC at 720p, PBS at 1080i, etc, etc.

For PC Tuner card which uses CableCARD - google Ceton InfiniTV.


For PC Tuner card which uses OTA/Cable non-encrypted channels - google AVerMedia. I use a AverTV HD Duet card that I got for $55 several months ago. Works great with Windows Media Center (Windows 7) and Comcast Basic Cable to get all the basic channels in HD. I would have to pay $15 more a month if I just had internet only so it's cheaper if I have Basic Cable added to my internet plan. Sadly, most don't realize you can get all the basic channels in HD for NOTHING but basic cable package. I don't even have a Comcast rec. or anything.


For External Video Processors - google Anchor Bay (DVDO Edge) and Denon AV rec., some of their rec. use the Anchor Bay chip for video processing.
 
#179 ·
Lucid are you SURE these tvs upconvert EVERYTHING to 1080p?


I have been watching the presentation on these tv's on all the shop tv channels...(hsn, qvc, shopnbc...) for well over a year now.... (needless to say i am obsessed with the whole mit dlp series)


and no matter who is the expert they have on the show selling it...they always say that the plush1080p upconverts STANDARD DEF.not high def...to 1080p.


Which makes sense to me...


do you have proof these tv's upconvert 720p/1080i to a fake 1080p



Im looking every where on the net and all I see is that it up converts Standard Def.


BTW this TV Shows a much better Standard Def picture than my plasma
 
#180 ·
Is there any reason people are taking contrast down to 65-75. I ran mine through DVE and THX optimizer and at 100 it passed all white tests for contrast. I do have a little bigger offsets on the tint, hue range though but the colors look amazing, not poppy just very accurate and great gradients.


I am a long time DLPaphobe and with the deal at BBY I couldn't pass it up. After I set it up and corrected for screen position and geometry this thing has one of the best pics I have ever seen.
 
#181 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpsuxx /forum/post/19601494


Is there any reason people are taking contrast down to 65-75. I ran mine through DVE and THX optimizer and at 100 it passed all white tests for contrast. I do have a little bigger offsets on the tint, hue range though but the colors look amazing, not poppy just very accurate and great gradients.


I am a long time DLPaphobe and with the deal at BBY I couldn't pass it up. After I set it up and corrected for screen position and geometry this thing has one of the best pics I have ever seen.

it passes at 100 percent contrast on mine too but i lowered cos some said they were seeing banding issues...i never saw any but i have noticed that when contrast is lowered SSE is greatly diminished...i was seeing rainbows and when someone mentioned what it was and how to reduce i gave it a go


btw can you tell us how to correct the geometry and screen position? is it the same for everyone or are no 2 sets the same
 
#182 ·
Look for the service manual and then follow the steps. Center the screen first and then correct the geometry. I think someone posted a link to the service manual on page 1 of this thread. Print it out and read through the steps, its pretty straight forward.

I am seeing some artifacts with HD Uverse, I will have to adjust the contrast with HD broadcast on because mostly all I have watched so far is blu-ray and I have had no problems there.
 
#183 ·
Hi all. Received my 60638 on Friday. My, the screen is HUGE compared to my 4 year-old 42" Panasonic Plasma!


Am I going blind, or could my set be slightly out of focus? I feel like text and other details aren't as sharp as I'm expecting it to be, or is this just a trade off that one has to accept with DLP RPTV?
 
#184 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMerk /forum/post/19603120


Hi all. Received my 60638 on Friday. My, the screen is HUGE compared to my 4 year-old 42" Panasonic Plasma!

Am I going blind, or could my set be slightly out of focus? I feel like text and other details aren't as sharp as I'm expecting it to be, or is this just a trade off that one has to accept with DLP RPTV?

im leaning towards blind. jk


focus defects are pretty rare on dlp, but not impossible.

how far away are you viewing the content?

what type of source and what type of connection?

if you are using an analog source, then ya...its not gonna look as good.
 
#186 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by boozcruz33 /forum/post/19598503


I just purchased a WD-65638 and am loving it so far. I have yet to do any tuning, but I have noticed an issue during dark scenes where there is a light circle about 6 inches in diameter in the lower left-center of the screen. Is this something that can be adjusted with some tuning, is this a major problem and the TV should be returned, or is this expected with a rear projection DLP? I have attached some pictures since my description is pretty poor.


Thanks for your help,

Shane

move your TV to face another direction. did the position of the spot change?
 
#187 ·
Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?
 
#189 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 /forum/post/0


Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?

I have the mit starter kit and the owner manual states that the ir emitter will work with the Samsung 3d glass model ssg-2100ab.
 
#190 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq /forum/post/19604206


move your TV to face another direction. did the position of the spot change?

I tried that and it appears the spot is in the same place. I also tried covering up all possible light that could get into the back of the TV in case there was light coming through and causing some sort of glare. Unfortunately, the spot remained in the same position no matter what I tried.


The worst part is that I purchased from Amazon for a great deal and they no longer have any in stock. They are willing to take it back as a return for no charge, but the price has now gone up significantly across the board. I guess my only option is to see if Mitsubishi can send someone to repair it without breaking something else. Not a fun project for a brand new TV...
 
#191 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 /forum/post/19605526


Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?

I have the Samsung glasses from the started kit, they work just like my mits glasses with the Mits Adapter and emitter. In fact they look just like them as well.
 
#194 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by boxer0987 /forum/post/19611398


I was wandering if some of the settings people were using earlier in the tread would apply for the 73638 too? Or is there a big difference with the screen sizes? Anyone have any recommended settings for the 73"?

cant hurt to try...
 
#195 ·
Hi everyone, I just received my 65638. I understood there would be issues when not watching HD content, but I assumed (incorrectly) that the cable HD channels would be fine. When I watch bluray the picture is awesome. When I watch my cable HD channels (Time Warner) the picture looks good unless there is a lot of action on the screen. Whenever there is fast moving scenes the picture gets a lot of pixelation before settling in. Watching a normal scene is fine, it is only when things are changing a lot. For instance, on NCIS opening sequence where they jump from scene to scene, I can't see much of it. The screen freezes and then gets all jumbled unless the scene stays the same for a while. I know I'm not describing it very well, but hopefully someone will chime in.


The settings are factory except the picture mode is natural. Color temp is low and the video noise is off. I have a motorola DCH2416. It is outputing 1080i according to the front panel.


I want this tv mainly for movies and HD sports shows. The movie part is great, but if I can't watch fast moving sport shows I'm not sure I want to keep the tv. I know it is probably due to the cable/cable box since blurays look good, but my Sony 46" XBR9 looks awesome (apples to oranges). Is there some setting I'm missing or is the issue the video processor?


Any help would be appreciated.
 
#196 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeinNH /forum/post/19612821


Hi everyone, I just received my 65638. I understood there would be issues when not watching HD content, but I assumed (incorrectly) that the cable HD channels would be fine. When I watch bluray the picture is awesome. When I watch my cable HD channels (Time Warner) the picture looks good unless there is a lot of action on the screen. Whenever there is fast moving scenes the picture gets a lot of pixelation before settling in. Watching a normal scene is fine, it is only when things are changing a lot. For instance, on NCIS opening sequence where they jump from scene to scene, I can't see much of it. The screen freezes and then gets all jumbled unless the scene stays the same for a while. I know I'm not describing it very well, but hopefully someone will chime in.


The settings are factory except the picture mode is natural. Color temp is low and the video noise is off. I have a motorola DCH2416. It is outputing 1080i according to the front panel.


I want this tv mainly for movies and HD sports shows. The movie part is great, but if I can't watch fast moving sport shows I'm not sure I want to keep the tv. I know it is probably due to the cable/cable box since blurays look good, but my Sony 46" XBR9 looks awesome (apples to oranges). Is there some setting I'm missing or is the issue the video processor?


Any help would be appreciated.

sometimes when there is fast action thing on tv i set my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i...i dont if you can do tht with urs tho...it really helps with me.
 
#197 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19612831


sometimes when there is fast action thing on tv i set my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i...i dont if you can do tht with urs tho...it really helps with me.

I believe I can as there is a format button on the box that lets me cycle through different resolutions. How does this affect the picture? Thanks for the quick reply.


ETA: I'm not sure if this could affect the picture or not, but I am running the HDMI from the cable box into a Sony sound system (along with the blu-ray player). I then connect the sound system to the tv. Any negative affects from this?
 
#198 ·
I know this is probably the Nth my settings post but I just hammered out the details using my reference materials. No banding, no over saturation, high black level detail with still a dark balck level, passes all DVE tests for color (except overscan, with the service menu the best I could do is still 2% overscan, but its centered.) I'll post screen shots tonight but here are the settings.


Natural Mode

Contrast 82

Brightness 57

Color 45

Tint +3

video Noise Reduction off

film mode off (couldn't see any difference between off and on w/ blu ray)

Color Temp Low


I'm sure everyones sets tint and color will be different but for my set this looks near perfect
 
#199 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 /forum/post/19605526


Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?

I've seen some good reviews on the 3D Heaven Ultra-Clears. I'm still waiting for my free 3D kit and then I'll probably add a few of these for viewer expansion: www dot ultimate3dheaven dot com/dlp3dwiglfis dot html
 
#200 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19595142


the contrast ratio on dlp's are sadly not that great to begin with ...i read at best they get 12000:1 (i only read this after i bought it but still at the price i got it for i cant complain)... my entry level plasma got 30000:1 easily

Don't believe the contrast ratios you see on HDTVs specs. - most of them are "dynamic" and not native numbers. Then there's the real world measurement which would be to display half the screen with full white and the other half full black and then take meter readings. Btw, even small amounts of ambient light (one LUX - a candle flame) significantly reduces the ability of display devices to render higher contrast ratios. Also, the human eye typically only sees contrast ratios within 400:1 to 10,000:1. But the eye can adapt after watching material for a period of time to increase it's ability to detect higher contrast ratios. Another interesting fact for most to know that are concerted about contrast ratio - when you go to the theater a "good clean print" movie only has a contrast ratio of about 500:1.


Confused, exactly - and that's what HDTV manufactures prey on...providing you specs. to get you to buy a set when your human eyes are the best "specs" you can use.
 
#201 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez /forum/post/19601350


Lucid are you SURE these tvs upconvert EVERYTHING to 1080p?

The whole line of the Mitsubishi DLP series upconverts all non-1080p signals to 1080p. The reason for this is that it displays a 1080p image at 60hz. The wobulation it does to produce a full image happens at 120hz which is "sort of" like an interlaced TV but a lot different than analog TVs. This is why all non-1080p signals have to be up converted to it's native display/output. Proof of this is that you can't disable the Plush1080p video processing, it's on by default in the set and can't be turned off. The only way to "disable" it so to speak is to feed the HDTV a 1080p signal.

Here's what the 838 owner manual states:

All images are displayed at 1080p. The TV uses Plush 1080p® 5G to convert lower-resolution signals to 1080p for display. The TV can also accept 1080p original signals and maintain them at 1080p through all processing until displayed.
 
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