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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

972K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#377 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by roknrol /forum/post/20533794


FWIW, here's my radon experience:


Before finishing the basement, I used a passive, charcoal test and the results were 8.0 pCi/L. I thought, "Hmmm. That's not good." So I got a consumer-grade plug-in active model and let it run for several weeks. I think the lowest average reading was around 10 and the highest (cough, cough) was 21. So I decided to seal up every hole (sump pump, shower drain rough-in pit, crawl space) with 16 mil poly and caulk around the entire slab perimeter with elastomeric sealant. Much to my surprise, the sealing effects were disappointingly negligible.


So, I had a single, active remediation kit installed ($800) near the sump and through the existing 60s-era drain tile.


Readings immediately dropped to an average of 2.4 pCi/L.


Breathing much easier now ....

Thanks for the info. I'm just glad this part of the process won't hold up the entire project and I can tackle that afterwards. It's great to hear real world results.
 
#378 ·
They started framing the interior walls of the theater today. The walls are connected to the soffit with IB-3 clips from the Soundproofing Company. The studs are staggered and spaced an inch apart from the other wall.




Once they finish the inside perimeter. They'll probably build the platform to raise the lower level up by 5 3/4". I've decide to just leave the space underneath void incase of flooding.


I may be able to make it into a bass trap ... but I'm going to have to do more research in that area to see how I would handle that.
 
#379 ·
For your other rooms, use in-ceiling speakers that are already made with back boxes such as Triad. Lots to choose from with a large range of prices and applications for everyone/thing...!
 
#380 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 /forum/post/20535608


For your other rooms, use in-ceiling speakers that are already made with back boxes such as Triad. Lots to choose from with a large range of prices and applications for everyone/thing...!

Great idea. Do these typically have as good or better sound than ones that are not enclosed?
 
#382 ·
Mario, it's more risky to have the ventilation running through the joists. A soffit muffler will be decoupled from the framing, as would a Dead Vent. The joist muffler is not able to be decoupled because of the space limitations in the joist cavity.


The door of choice is a sealed, solid core door, not an exterior foam-filled door.
 
#383 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20541539


The walls are completed and they started on the raising the lower level up.


The front row seating, D-Box platform, stairs and front stage will all be built upon this raised level.


Anyone know how to turn this space into a bass trap?






What is the height difference from the lower (raised level) to the upper level?
 
#385 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20541530


Great idea. Do these typically have as good or better sound than ones that are not enclosed?

Triad makes amazing speakers. Their in-wall and in-ceiling speakers are suppose to sound exactly the same as their comparable in-room speakers. that is huge IMO.


Check out the Triad thread in the speaker section and ask Paul any questions, he will give you an extremely honest anwser without any sale pitches at ALL....!
 
#386 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/20541562


Mario, it's more risky to have the ventilation running through the joists. A soffit muffler will be decoupled from the framing, as would a Dead Vent. The joist muffler is not able to be decoupled because of the space limitations in the joist cavity.


The door of choice is a sealed, solid core door, not an exterior foam-filled door.

Ted,


I spoke with John Hile and he thought this might work just as well...but I'd like your input. Here's a diagram that shows what John and I discussed.


I have enough room in my soffit (below the joists) to build it 12" x 12" DD/GG enclosure for the supply and still keep it rigidly attached and hanging above the rooms OSB/Drywall/GG. Only the right side will be roughly a 1/4" away from the first layer of OSB in the room and sealed with acoustic sealant.


NOTE: This image doesn't show the DD/GG around the bottom side of the enclosure, but it would be built that way.
 
#388 ·
Hi Mario,


I'll reply to your email if that's OK
 
#389 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20543337


Larry,


It should be about 11 1/2" between the two levels.

Ok that is perfect!
 
#390 ·
I'm trying to make sure I get all the wiring I'll need into the room before insulation goes into the walls.


I was going to home run everything back to the Theater Rack in the other room, but I'm thinking I may terminate the speakers and possibly subwoofers inside the theater so I can perform the Audyssey calibration. They don't recommend extending the mic more than 25 ft which is going to be a problem in my case. It's really going to stink unconnecting everything in the rack though every time I want to do a calibration. Wondering if others have had the same issue and how they tackled it.


Do I need to home run every Subwoofer RG6 run to the theater rack or do I really just need two RG6 from the Amp to the theater room...then pick the appropriate RG6 to connect to?


Can anyone think of anything I may have missed?


Wiring into Theater Room

Subwoofer - Front Wall / Split for Two RG6

Subwoofer - Left Side Column RG6

Subwoofer - Right Side Column RG6

Subwoofer - Rear Right Column RG6

Subwoofer - Rear Left Column RG6

Speaker: Front Right 12 AWG

Speaker: Front Left 12 AWG

Speaker: Front Center 12 AWG

Speaker Surround Back Right 12 AWG

Speaker Surround Back Left 12 AWG

Speaker: Surround Right 12 AWG

Speaker: Surround Left 12 AWG

Speaker: Front High Right 12 AWG

Speaker: Front High Left 12 AWG

Speaker: Front Wide Right 12 AWG

Speaker: Front Wide Left 12 AWG

Projector HMDI

Projector Cat5 Serial Control

Projector Cat5 Future Network Connectivity

Projector (3) Cat6 Future Video Proofing

Projector 1/8" Stereo 12 volt Trigger

Entry Wall 22/4 Occupancy Sensor

Behind False Wall Cat5 IR Distribution

Behind False Wall Cat5 Future Proofing

Inside Wall or Column 18/2 Thermostat Temp Sensor

Inside Wall or Column 3.5mm Extender For Audyssey Calibration

D-Box Platform Cat5

Front Row Seating 12 AWG Butt Kicker

Back Row Seating 12 AWG Butt Kicker
 
#392 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/0


David,


Don't give me any other ideas.



Question: I want to make sure I'm prewired for inwall subs in the middle side columns. It's not clear from the Triad website as to how I should prewire. Is it 2 wire speaker cable or RG6?

If the Triad Sub you are looking at has a rack amp, regular speaker wire. If not, RG6
 
#393 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 /forum/post/20550884


If the Triad Sub you are looking at has a rack amp, regular speaker wire. If not, RG6

Looks like I'll need extra 12 gauge wire.



The D-Box aluminum frame is finally ordered. Hope to have it in 2-3 weeks...but we should be able to easily build around it given we know the exact size.


Had a good conversation with Ted today and think I've finally nailed down how to handle the Soffit Muffler for the vents using IB-3's. I'll post a diagram in case anyone else down the road can benefit from it.


I hope it's not bad luck to setup the projector in the room this early but I couldn't resist.
Now my 2 yr old projector has about 20 minutes on it.
I also needed a little amo to keep going. I'm pretty exhausted trying to work and get all this stuff done. The spray foam guy is coming on Tuesday so I need to have all my wiring completed through-out the basement except for the theater. I'm pretty close to complete just a few left.





 
#394 ·
Here's my current plan for wiring into the Theater that includes video, audio, data, security and outlets. No lighting plan yet.




I think I'll use the dead space in the back of the room to make some type of patch panel in the wall. Then I'll route most cabling into the patch panel and then onto the appropriate location in the Theater. This would be mostly for speakers and subs and some of the Cat5 distribution maybe. Does anyone forsee any problems with breaking the chain with a patch panel? I'm thinking I may just home run all feeds to the projector just to be safe.


Anyone have any links to other theaters that have done a patch panel? I was just planning on using keystone jacks.
 
#397 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20561032


Any recommendations on where to get a 60-75 ft HDMI cable and what standards to make sure it includes? 26 AWG? I've seen some listed with Internet now too.

When I spoke to a HT store a few months back, he recommended CAT5 Baluns as opposed to long HDMI runs
 
#398 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/20564439


When I spoke to a HT store a few months back, he recommended CAT5 Baluns as opposed to long HDMI runs

Yeah. That's the route I'm headed after further research too. Hey, well that's a first. I just saved a couple bucks.
 
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