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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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1 19
#427 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty /forum/post/20586795


Those look like 80/20 T-slot bars, cool! Could you take some pictures when you assemble the platform and post them up? Pretty please?

Yes - they are the 45x45 mm and 45x90mm T-Slots.

I found a local company to predrill and cut them to specs.


I will definitely post some pictures after assembly.
 
#428 ·
I want to make sure I'm future proofed for multiple subs down the road. I'm running everything from my rack into the theater patch panel within the theater. As far as floor subs go, I think I just need to run two RG6 into the patch panel from the rack. I know I could then split them up to say 4 subs there using a splitter. Do more advanced systems require dedicated Rg6 to each sub for room EQ? Just wondering if I need to run four RG6 instead.


Is it also safe to assume that I only need one RG6 behind my false wall to support two subs up front?
 
#429 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20587241


I want to make sure I'm future proofed for multiple subs down the road. I'm running everything from my rack into the theater patch panel within the theater. As far as floor subs go, I think I just need to run two RG6 into the patch panel from the rack. I know I could then split them up to say 4 subs there using a splitter. Do more advanced systems require dedicated Rg6 to each sub for room EQ? Just wondering if I need to run four RG6 instead.


Is it also safe to assume that I only need one RG6 behind my false wall to support two subs up front?

Mario,


While you still can, I'd run individual RG6 feeds to wherever you might install a sub. Putting a Y splitter induces a loss and the more you split, the more loss you get. I have only one sub-out on my receiver (for now), but I'm going to be feeding two subs and two butt kickers, so I'm going to be installing a little amplifier to minimize loss. It's not absolutely necessary, but while you've got everything open, it's not 50-feet of RG6 that'll break the bank.
 
#431 ·
Today I was able to get most of my speaker cable, bass shaker, RG6 and two cat5 runs into the theaters patch panel area. Still need to come up with some clean way to hide all of this in a wall or enclosure but have some ideas in my head.


It should be pretty easy now for me to just make the final runs from the patch panel to the appropriate locations in the theater. I'll still have a few home runs from the projector as well.


I pretty much filled up my I-Beam with cable for the rest of the house...so I made a different path into the theater that was a little more direct within a soffit.





Here's where the patch panel will be terminated within the theater itself. Another set of cables will go up the right side and within the theater.




I put some puddy pads on some outlets that I know won't get moved that are on the other side of the double wall in the bar.
 
#432 ·
Mario, in your picture of all the cable, I see thick orange double-conductor cable. Is that high-voltage? I'm asking cuz I see some Monoprice speaker cable running parallel to it. I just don't recognize the cable, that's why I'm asking -- the whole high-voltage and low-voltage running parallel thing...
 
#433 ·
The orange cable is rg6 and cat5 combined. There is some electric cable above about 4 to 6 inches that has been there for years that hasn't caused any issues. Im running the theater cable down a different run which is a little more critical to me and made sure there were no parralel runs with electric.. I haven't noticed any hummimg in any of the 12 russound zones yet since that electric was put there. Perhaps the ibeam in between helps too.
 
#435 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage /forum/post/20592453


How much did the DBox cost you?

Let's just say it wasn't cheap.



I was able to get a DEMO model at a great price though about 5 or 6 years ago when the economy was thriving.


I initially took the feet off one of my wife's chairs and connected the acuators to it. It was a pretty wild ride. Fortunately I was able to get her chair back to it's original condition.


The D-Box has been sitting in storage for years. So I'm anxious to revive it soon.
 
#438 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20592569


The D-Box has been sitting in storage for years. So I'm anxious to revive it soon.

I'd say! I've never tried out the D-box. I love the buttkickers I have in my seats but tend to turn the gain down and programmed my x-over so they only start to fire below 35hz. I know that d-box is a big step up from the buttkickers but I wonder how distracting people find them? Also, do they act as a LF tactile effect for music or soundtracks without a d-box download?
 
#439 ·
Moggie,


I can't say that I've watched a full movie with the D-Box yet, but I did watch sections from a variety of movies. I'm thinking it will make we want to rewatch a lot of movies once the theater is done.


It's pretty impressive in some movies, it even seems like the vibrations it makes creates a sound or tone that matches that of the movie track down to the perfect pitch.


Everyone I demoed it too seemed to just say WOW. I guess for romantic comedies it may not be that attractive though.



It does have a music mode that will make it act like a butt kicker.


I'll also have butt kickers in both rows for movies that aren't D-Box compatible. Through the touch screen I should be able to turn on/off either row or the D-Box.
 
#440 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20600140


I'll also have butt kickers in both rows for movies that aren't D-Box compatible. Through the touch screen I should be able to turn on/off either row or the D-Box.

We are an obsessive bunch of fanatics, aren't we?
How are you planning to switch b-kickers on/off?


Cheers!
 
#441 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie /forum/post/20600153


We are an obsessive bunch of fanatics, aren't we?
How are you planning to switch b-kickers on/off?


Cheers!

Yeah. We are a special breed.



I was just planning on using an older receiver with an a/b speaker option. Or I could just use an insteon applianceLinc to completely turn on or off the receiver.worst case I know there are speaker switchers with rs232 control. Lots of ways to skin that cat.
 
#442 ·
The construction crew had some other projects this week so I'm on the back burner.


The new baby is due in about 6 1/2 weeks so I thought I'd try to push the project along by trying to make some can light backer boxes tonight. I ended up using 3/4" wood with 1/4" cement board. I have two of them cut to size and will get all the pieces together before I acoustic caulk and green glue them permanently. These things feel pretty heavy to be floating right on the drywall. I may attach them with IB3's to help reduce the weight unless others have had that some feeling.




This is about the extent of my wood working skills.



I also put up some R13 on one of the theater walls. The electrical and low voltage haven't been pulled into the room yet, but given the limited locations it shouldn't be a problem to work around later. I'll be putting two sconces on the back wall. This should help in cases where I need to light up more of the center of the room.




I think I've also figured out my lighting plan for the room. The lights are shown in pink. The inside perimiter will be 3" cans. All the rest will be 4" cans including the three pointing at the screen. 16 3" cans around the inside perimeter may be a bit much but I still may tweak that number down to maybe 3 on each side instead of 4.




Sample Rendering with Sconces:
 
#443 ·
Hi Mario - looks like things are really coming along well!


Regarding your backer boxes, I think you'll be fine with them directly against the back of the drywall without IB3's. I used 7/16" OSB and 1/4" backer board for mine (maybe slightly lighter than your final weight will be) and they appear to be fine against the back of the drywall. If you do decide to use the IB3's, you'll need to be sure that the flange of the backer box is lined up exactly with the face of the channel so you can get a good seal with the drywall. Given my (very) limited construction ability and the fact that Ted White told me the boxes were ok directly against the drywall, I didn't want to chance having a compromised seal and so decided not to use the IB3's.


Anyway, just food for thought...keep up the good work!



Here's a pic of how mine look up in the ceiling...

 
#445 ·
I have a water pipe for my well in the back of the theater that runs through the studs they've notched. How do I go about insulating? I imagine the pipe may sweat a little so should I just leave a gap of insulation around the water pipe?


The first 11' vent muffler was connected today with IB3 clips. Pictures to follow after the break.
 
#447 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim /forum/post/20617169


I would install a 1/2" thick armaflex insulation around the water pipe, sealing all seams with adhesive.


Home Depot actually carries both (around here, anyway).

Thanks.


So insulate the water pipe...then just put the regular insulation around it?
 
#448 ·
Here are some pics from todays activitives. Both Vent mufflers have been built. We used 3/4" OSB and then 1/2" OSB and Green Glue in the middle. Acoustic sealant was used at the joints. ONe of the Vent Mufflers was mounted using the IB3 clips. I also Green Glued and screwed four backer boxes.





The smaller hole is for the Arzel air tubes to control the zone dampers in the theater.










Some 2x4's were mounted underneath the soffit to hold the wait while the screwed the IB3's to the Joists above. The entire muffler will be 5/8" above the first layer of plywood we put on the finished ceiling.










The IB3 clips were spaced every 16".













We wrapped a thin plastic around the duct to improve air flow and prevent any fiberglass from blowing into the room. I can't imagine this would cause any issues with the sound proofing. I'm thinking of using the plastic wrapped insulation as well inside the mufflers. It seems it would also help improve the airflow.
 
#449 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/20599765


Ted,


Do you have any data/knowledge on the 1/2" ultra light drywall? I was getting quotes on drywall for the basement and one of the guys mentioned that he thought while the 1/2" ultra light drywall is 30% lighter, it still may have comparable STC values to 5/8" drywall.

Any thoughts
 
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