A brand new thread for discussing ONLY the Mits hc4000.
Originally Posted by bishopt I just wish they came with full saturation panels that would allow you to dial in your saturation levels better... |
Originally Posted by julian bernard Hey all, Just bought 3 Hc4000's to run on a curved screen. 2 are conencted to my PC via HDMI to dvi (computer side) cables and one has a active dvi to mini display port. Now the image off the PJ with the mini display port is perfect yet the other two contain a lot of green lines going accross them and they flicker quite a bit. Anyone else experienced this? ChEERS |
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Originally Posted by julian bernard /forum/post/20597750
I've just tried each cable one at a time on each projector with very strange results. So each test was performed with the HDMI port of the PJ used and connected to the active mini display port connected to the computer.
The first cable showed the green lines on all 3 projectors. The second cable showed the green lines on one projector with the other 2 perfect quality, and the third cable gave no signal to all three projectors!
Last test done (removing the mini display port)
In the same order, the first cable again shower green images on all projectors. the second one showed perfect images on all 3 (as opposed to 2 perfect 1 s and 1 green one as it was with the display port) and the last cable now displayed a signal, but the picture was mostly green.
Am i right to think that it sounds like a cable issue? Do you think the varying results is due to the different resistance each cable has?
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Originally Posted by Krbass /forum/post/20599444
I have 7'2" ceilings so I think with the no lens shift mounting this PJ is not going to work. I wanted at least a 100" screen. If this wont work for me what is the best alternative to the HC4000 and how much more money am I going to need to spend?
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Originally Posted by bishopt /forum/post/20595824
So here is the mits calculator, looks like you got it right..
So the shortest distance for a 92" screen is 110 and the max is 165..fleaman gave you all the details about position, I think mid zoom is usually the best compromise but you will be happy either way, keep in mind the calc also tells you how high your screen will be positioned for a 6" drop...bottom of screen will be about 36"...might be a little high, so you may want to extend the drop tube....you'll have to play around with that to see what you prefer...if you have any more questions let us know
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Originally Posted by fleaman /forum/post/20593966
Generally>
> closer PJ is to screen, you'll get a little more lumens (worse blacks)
> further PJ is from screen, little less lumens, but better blacks
> middle range (so middle of the zoom), best part of the lens, so potentually better focus uniformity, less chromatic aberration.
> then there are the aesthetic reasons. Furthest mounting puts the PJ more out of the visual and audible range.
Ultimately most would not notice the difference in the image no matter how close or far you mount it, so I wouldn't fret over this too much
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Originally Posted by one4g /forum/post/20600132
Thanks bishopt and fleaman for the valuable input for ceiling mounting my hc4000. Unfortunately no ship date yet and am patiently waiting for any info. Meanwhile just acting like a 'sponge' and trying to absorb as much information from you guys.
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Originally Posted by Krbass /forum/post/20599444
I just saw this PJ after checking out the 8350 and a 9500ub. I wish I had not seen the HC4000 because the other 2 looked great till I saw the mits. I brought the same 2 movies to all 3 places, How to Train Your Dragon and Barraka. The image was so sharp and colors just flew off the screen. I also noticed the convergence issue on the 9500 that I have read about, was not visible on the 8350.
The other thing I noticed is the motion lag on the Mits was non existent, and the other 2 it was there, not much but I still saw it. I always liked DLP RPTVs over the LCD ones, is the tech in a lot of ways the same with front projection?
I have 7'2" ceilings so I think with the no lens shift mounting this PJ is not going to work. I wanted at least a 100" screen. If this wont work for me what is the best alternative to the HC4000 and how much more money am I going to need to spend?
I am new to projectors and am trying to be sure I make the right decision before spending what to me is a ton of cash. My hope is that Mits maybe announces a successor to this projector with lens shift in the coming months. By October my basement should be finished and I will be ready to make a purchase.
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Originally Posted by Ahamay17 /forum/post/20605550
Checked the hours on my HC4000, 1080 hours... Have nothing but a warm fuzzy feeling about my choice so far... Guess I enjoy watching it more then typing about itNTTIAWWT
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Originally Posted by coderguy /forum/post/20606367
lx1330b for the light meter, it is only $35 or so from Amazon vendors...
snip...
Note:
Moving is a pain in my back (literally), as I'm in the middle of it.
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Originally Posted by snmhanson /forum/post/0
I am finding my HC4000 often takes quite some time to lock onto an HDMI signal. Whenever I change channels on my DirecTV HDVR or especially when I switch input sources I get quite a bit of flickering and momentary loss of HDMI signal. For example, if I change channels, it may very briefly show the new channel, then go to the blue screen/no signal screen for a few seconds, then maybe show a picture for a second, back to the blue screen for a couple seconds and then finally back to the picture. There have been a couple of times where it couldn't lock on and once where I had to turn everything off and back on. On the other hand, I occasionally change channels and it immediately goes to the new channel.
Is this pretty typical with an all HDMI/projector setup or does it sound like I could have an issue somewhere? Is there any chance that all the flickering and the losing and regaining of the lock on the signal could cause damage to shorten the life of the projector?
Thanks,
Matt