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763K views 3K replies 431 participants last post by  kv1vega 
#1 ·
Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.


My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.


Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.

Edit: I replaced my settings with the latest collaborative table that shows my settings along with settings from zoyd, cue03, and LarryInRI

TiVoHDzoydcue03LarryInRI
64D800051D800064D800064D7000
ModeMovieMovieMovieMovie
Peak White30ftL27.8ftL
Cell Light20152015
Contrast96809580
Brightness54545366
Sharpness0050
Color50505044
Tint50/5050/5050/5048/52
Black Toneoffoffoff
Dynamicoffoffoff
gamma-1-1-10
RGB Onlyoff
Flesh Tone000
Edge Enhanceoffoffoff
Motion Lightoffoffoff
xvYccoffoffoff
Color Tonewarm2warm2warm2
Digital Noiseoffoffoff
mpeg Noiseoffoffoff
Color Space
Red_r48394336
Red_g66650
Red_b65550
Green_r20201460
Green_g54505050
Green_b36120
Blue_r31340
Blue_g33020
Blue_b50414750
Yellow_r53514850
Yellow_g53515050
Yellow_b6752
Cyan_r17181520
Cyan_g52484946
Cyan_b52485146
Magenta_r47414440
Magenta_g8663
Magenta_b57484847
White Balance
r-offset26222528
g-offset25262522
b-offset22252522
r-gain13302528
g-gain25252524
b-gain29273024
10-point
r10-110
g10-100
b10011
r202-40
g201-30
b202-40
r31010
g30010
b30-200
r40100
g40010
b40-11-1
r5002-1
g51120
b52-331
r6-201-1
g60010
b60121
r71100
g72100
b72200
r8-2-1-10
g800-10
b801-10
r90-100
g92-100
b9-21-10
r100110
g102000
b10-23-30
 
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1
#628 ·
I've been following this thread very closely since I received my PN64D7000 three weeks ago. I'm not a pro by any stretch of the imagination but I have an appreciation for those that posses a "Higher knowledge".


I am also a value oriented individual and paying someone to calibrate my TV when I could potentially just copy and paste the settings from the likes of Larry suits me just fine.


I've played around with all of the settings turning off all Eco and enhancement settings and plugged Larry's calibration into my TV under Movie, CAL-DAY & Night modes.


Some questions have arisen.


1. When I plugged Larry's settings in over the 3 modes, Movie, DAY, Night, it seems there is a slight difference in the picture between each mode with my preference being the CAL-day mode. I believe I read somewhere on this thread that the Gamma actually changes between these modes. Does a changed gamma affect the rest of the calibration?


2. I second the complaint about poor white color performance. After Deciding CAL-Day looked best to me I switched the tone from Warm2 to Warm1 and it cooled the image a bit but it made whites appear whiter to me and blues skies on LOTR bluray lost a slight greenish tint and looked more realistic. Does switching to Warm1 completely negate the accuracy of Larry's calibration?


I'm to a point where I don't care about 100% accuracy because to my eye the CAL day setting with warm1 tone looks much better to me that warm2. It almost appears that the colors are duller on Movie Warm2 and switching to CAL-DAY warm1 there is cloudiness that lifts, in addition to better whiter whites and more realistic colors to more eye.


I did use Avia 2 to adjust Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Red, Green, Blue push levels. That coupled with Larry's 10p white balance, White Balance, and Color space.


Here's my settings if anyone is interested:

CAL-DAY

Cell 17

Contrast 82

Brightness 66

sharpness 0

color 49

tint G49,R51

Gamma 0

Color Space (not much dif than Larry)

Rr 54

Rg 50

Rb 50

Gr 60

Gg 49

Gb 20

Br 40

Bg 20

Bb 42

all other colors same as Larry's


I'm just enjoying the heck out of this TV. I haven't really noticed any brightness fluctuations , minimal buzzing, and no peeling. Watched LOTR Fellowship of the Ring Bluray extended and thought it was better than seeing it in theater!!!
 
#629 ·
flute,


I understand what you are doing but what you are doing is not calibrating. You are adjusting. My calibration values were derived based upon the standard HDTV chromaticities as defined by the ITU-R Recommendation BT.709. I used a meter that is certified by the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) such as so to meet the accuracy required to measure the parameters defined by Rec. 709. Without using a meter, there is no way to adjust the Color Space to achieve the values defined in that specification.


Of course, you can adjust your set in any way that suits your preference but please do not associate my name to your values. Contrary to your preferences, my values are based upon accuracy. You made it clear that you are adjusting not calibrating when you stated, "I'm to a point where I don't care about 100% accuracy because to my eye the CAL day setting with warm1 tone looks much better to me that warm2."



To answer your questions:


1) Yes, indeed, there are differences among Movie, CAL-Day, and CAL-Night. Zoyd has posted the results of his investigation concerning this. His summary is in post #2 of this thread. In particular, the gamma in the CAL-Day mode is significantly lower than that of the Movie mode. This, by itself, is not good or bad. It simply causes the picture to look different. Zoyd's detailed results are here .


2) The default Warm1 setting is too blue and completely negates the results of my calibration.



Anyway, enjoy your new TV. Let us know if you see any fluctuations.


Cheers,

Larry
 
#630 ·
Sorry Larry I didn't mean to step on your toes or offend anyone. Thanks for your settings. I'm sorry if you felt like I was hijacking your settings. I'm sure I was clear in my post that was not my intent.


I tried to be satisfied with your numbers as I'm sure they're correct but as I stated earlier the settings i liked which I was careful to state were not based on pro measurements looked better to my eyes. Nothing more nothing less. That's all that really matters right? Just posted my numbers in case others were curious.


I'm keeping your number plugged in on Movie and I will be checking back and forth to see If I can get my eyes to adjust. Could I be missing something because the colors seem duller? Maybe it's suppose to look like the heh?


BTW. I do feel the need to defend myself a bit so I don't sound like a complete clueless tool. I did use Avia 2 to "calibrate" not just "adjust" my picture. Maybe that's just too rank amateur to you larry to be considered calibration but at least it's more than just copying settings from an online forum.


Thanks again for settings.


Dave
 
#631 ·
I think he is trying to avoid the confusion of saying "calibrated" vs "adjusted". They insinuate different things. Calibration requires instrumentation and software while "adjustments" are what every user does by eye (with Avia disc, etc)
 
#632 ·
The Samsung plasma D8000 series (2011) accepts and displays 1080p/24 HDMI input. What purpose does "Cinema Smooth" have in this scenario? Can't a plasma display 24 progressive frames per second of a BD movie and is not contrained to 30/60/120, etc?


Wouldn't Cinema Smooth only be useful for other sources like perhaps DVD which can't be sent in 24fps?
 
#633 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdeen /forum/post/0


The Samsung plasma D8000 series (2011) accepts and displays 1080p/24 HDMI input. What purpose does "Cinema Smooth" have in this scenario? Can't a plasma display 24 progressive frames per second of a BD movie and is not contrained to 30/60/120, etc?


Wouldn't Cinema Smooth only be useful for other sources like perhaps DVD which can't be sent in 24fps?

Cinema smooth gives you the option of disabling 1080p/24 (i believe the set accomplishes this by using a 96Hz refresh) in lieu of 1080p/60.


I leave it set to auto but some on this forum are distracted by the increased brightness when it is engaged, so they disable it.
 
#635 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by AtDaBeach /forum/post/0


It does use 96hz, and it does raise MLL. For example, a larger 7000/8000 goes from 0.007 to 0.012 fL when it is enabled.

Ok, so if your tv can only display non multiples of 24 then I see the purpose. But if your BD player can output 24hz and the tv can display @ 24 times/ sec (Hz), then what would Cinema Smooth be doing in such a case?
 
#636 ·
No tv can display 24 at 24, they have to be in multiples. 120, 72, 96, 240, whatever. Few scenarios:
  • Your tv does not have a 24hz capable mode (72/96/120) but accepts 24p. If you send it 24p, it outputs it as 60hz, using 2:3
  • Your tv has a 24hz capable mode. You then chose to use it, or not, depending on how smooth you perceive it to be. You can have flicker on Panasonic plasmas, and MLL rise on Samsungs
  • Your TV does not have 24hz capabilities, and it cannot accept 24p. You then have to force 60hz out from the BR player.


To properly display a 24hz source, you need CS ON, but lose some MLL. If off, it just performs pulldown.
 
#637 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 /forum/post/0



Cinema smooth gives you the option of disabling 1080p/24 (i believe the set accomplishes this by using a 96Hz refresh) in lieu of 1080p/60.


I leave it set to auto but some on this forum are distracted by the increased brightness when it is engaged, so they disable it.

Is Cinema smooth an option when playing an avi or mkv file from a USB stick? Or from my network? Assuming the file is 1080p of course. It always seems grayed out.


Also, in the Film Mode menu, what is the difference between Auto1 and Auto2? Thanks!
 
#640 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by AtDaBeach /forum/post/20686422


CS is only available for 1080p/24.


Auto 1 is to properly deinterlace 1080i and what should be uses. Auto 2 handles scrolling text better.

Anyone know why Samsung made the choice that it would only be avalible when playing movies at 1080P/24 ?


When playing MKV files the movie stutters, when the camera pans from side to side and that can only be fixed with CS on ...


On the VT30 you can enable it with MKV files and TV, so why Samsung made this choice is a mystery to me ...


PS. Is there any way to make MKV movies play at 1080P/24 with the Samsung media player ?
 
#641 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ItzMe
Thanks! And just to clarify, then CS should be available for 1080p/24 regardless of the source (BR, Media mkv file, etc.)?
From the manual:


Film Mode (Off / Auto1 / Auto2 / Cinema Smooth for PDP TV ): Sets the TV so

that it senses and then processes film signals from all sources automatically

and adjusts the picture for optimum quality. The Cinema Smooth function is

only active when the TV inputs an HDMI 24Hz signal.

NNAvailable in TV, AV, COMPONENT (480i / 1080i) and HDMI (480i / 1080i).



So I believe the answer is "no", it must be input via HDMI.
 
#643 ·
Im not very knowledgeable on calibration stuff but could someone please explain why you guys picked sharpness to be 0? Right now Ive tried both Tivo's and Larry's settings but still the default dynamic setting seems to have more vibrant colors. I have the tv in a pretty dark room at night.


Thanks!
 
#645 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDLVR /forum/post/20687311


Larry,


tried your #2 settings with the adjustment to contrast and cell light,

that did not induce any fluctuations i could detect. with the #3 settings

it was very obvious with 1080i content.


HDLVR,


Thanks for taking the time. I truly appreciate it.


Just to make sure that there is no misunderstanding, let me restate in a different form what you said.


With your D7000 and a 1080i source, these settings cause no obvious brightness fluctuations:

#2: cell = 15, cont = 80, gamma = +1

#2a: cell = 20, cont = 70, gamma = +1


And this setting with a 1080i source causes very obvious brightness fluctuations:

#3: cell = 10, cont = 94, gamma = 0



You can see where I am going with this. Right now, all or a combination of all of the three variables could be the cause of the fluctuations -- again, at least for your TV. At this point, I am reluctant to ask for a change in gamma from +1 to 0 because that will require a significant change in the brightness setting to maintain a decent picture. And that, in turn, will only add another variable and make the problem more complex.


So I guess that the only reasonable request that I can ask of you is to create a #2b condition with cell = 10, cont = 94, and gamma = +1. (Of course, this might require a very small adjustment of your brightness setting.) You decide if you want to continue playing.




Larry
 
#646 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItzMe /forum/post/20686254


Is Cinema smooth an option when playing an avi or mkv file from a USB stick? Or from my network? Assuming the file is 1080p of course. It always seems grayed out.


Also, in the Film Mode menu, what is the difference between Auto1 and Auto2? Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudson1 /forum/post/20686705


From the manual:


Film Mode (Off / Auto1 / Auto2 / Cinema Smooth for PDP TV ): Sets the TV so

that it senses and then processes film signals from all sources automatically

and adjusts the picture for optimum quality. The Cinema Smooth function is

only active when the TV inputs an HDMI 24Hz signal.

NNAvailable in TV, AV, COMPONENT (480i / 1080i) and HDMI (480i / 1080i).


So I believe the answer is "no", it must be input via HDMI.

Hudson is correct. I just tested by trying to activate Cinema Smooth from a 1080p file on a USB stick. From the TV, it is grayed-out and can NOT be activated, from my Samsung BRp it CAN.


Like TheSleeper, I wonder if there's any workaround to get the file to play from the TV's USB or or Streaming Media? I also wonder WHY Samsung crippled that setting when it seems other manufacturers haven't? To sell more BR players?
 
#647 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItzMe /forum/post/20689082


Hudson is correct. I just tested by trying to activate Cinema Smooth from a 1080p file on a USB stick. From the TV, it is grayed-out and can NOT be activated, from my Samsung BRp it CAN.


Like TheSleeper, I wonder if there's any workaround to get the file to play from the TV's USB or or Streaming Media? I also wonder WHY Samsung crippled that setting when it seems other manufacturers haven't? To sell more BR players?

Well that was my thoughts :0) To sell more BR players ...


Surely this could be fixed with at firmware update ?


There must be some sort of workaround to this ... It pi.... me off, that i cant use this feature when i paid for it :0(
 
#648 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSleeper /forum/post/20689115


Well that was my thoughts :0) To sell more BR players ...


Surely this could be fixed with at firmware update ?


There must be some sort of workaround to this ... It pi.... me off, that i cant use this feature when i paid for it :0(

I agree, I always hate to see a feature crippled when its for marketing reasons. While I have the Brp as a workaround, it is much much slower and more tedious than playing the file through my network or the D8000s USB.


I'm going to post this issue on the CNET Samsung board in hopes the tech there might reply.


UPDATE: I posted the question at http://forums.cnet.com/samsung-forum/
 
#649 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/20687831


HDLVR,


Thanks for taking the time. I truly appreciate it.


Just to make sure that there is no misunderstanding, let me restate in a different form what you said.


With your D7000 and a 1080i source, these settings cause no obvious brightness fluctuations:

#2: cell = 15, cont = 80, gamma = +1

#2a: cell = 20, cont = 70, gamma = +1


And this setting with a 1080i source causes very obvious brightness fluctuations:

#3: cell = 10, cont = 94, gamma = 0



You can see where I am going with this. Right now, all or a combination of all of the three variables could be the cause of the fluctuations -- again, at least for your TV. At this point, I am reluctant to ask for a change in gamma from +1 to 0 because that will require a significant change in the brightness setting to maintain a decent picture. And that, in turn, will only add another variable and make the problem more complex.


So I guess that the only reasonable request that I can ask of you is to create a #2b condition with cell = 10, cont = 94, and gamma = +1. (Of course, this might require a very small adjustment of your brightness setting.) You decide if you want to continue playing.




Larry

Yes Larry, that is correct, and since I have already driven my wife cazy

with adjustments I might as well keep going....
I will give it a try and

let you know how it is.
 
#650 ·
Hi All,


Anyone here upgraded from a D6500 into D7000 because of glare? Is there substantial improvement?


Just got my 59D6500 2 days ago, was set on the D7000 since will be using the TV in a fairly bright living room but got concerned from post and reviews here and Amazon about peeling issues decided to go with the D6500.


I'm about 40hrs into break-in time, lots of glare during the day even with blinds closed, picture is amazing otherwise.
 
#651 ·
I am in the same situation. I purchased the pn59d6500 because I was concerned about the peeling issue with the d7000/d8000. The pn59 d6500 has been a mixed bag. It is really nice for blurays with the lights off but viewing during the day is a different story. The picture seems dim and washed out. Watching hd television is pretty underwelming. Im thinking of returning it and upgrading to the d7000/d8000 series. I just wonder if the picture will be any brighter and if the pq is significantly better to justify the cost and also the risk of getting a peeler. Has anyone been able to compare the 3 different d series plasmas?
 
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