AVS Forum banner

Official JVC RS-50 Owner's Thread

389K views 4K replies 257 participants last post by  descalabro 
#1 ·
Finally have an Rs 40 & 50
 
#3,889 ·
Well, pundit or not, you guys were a great help in my decision to go JVC. Honest to God, I've been so happy with Panasonic (since I got my first 1000) that I'd made up my mind to stick to the brand, like, forever. I was waiting for the 5000 to be out (should have 3D on it), but... welll, forever is too long a word for anything, I guess. I know I'll be happy and moving up to the a major league with the RS40. Will surely let you know my thoughts on it. Much obliged, guys.
 
#3,891 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cossie0 /forum/post/20708220


Hi guys, a bit off topic but why do lamps dim over time?


Do normal household light bulbs dim over time as well as it is not something I can say I have noticed.

I'm not an expert in lamps nor do I understand the physics behind UHP lamps but there are significant differences between a household lamp and a UHP Mercury Lamp. The household (Edison) lamp has a tungsten filament that glows because enough current runs thru it to make it hot. A UHP lamp does not have a filament. It has two tungsten electrodes that do not touch. A arc is established between those two electrodes and this arc in combination with Ultra High Pressure (UHP) gas (mostly mercury) causes it to create a very intense light source. The amount of lumens produced are dependent on the arc gap distance and the pressure of the mercury vapor. As the electrodes wear the arc gap widens causing dimming. The gap widens because the tungsten electrodes wear but the tungsten doesn't disappear....it gets deposited on the inside of the lamp and this tungsten coating reduces the amount of light passing thru the glass and this results in dimming. Phillips adds bromide (IIRC) to help keep the tungsten from coating the inside of the glass and this helps reduce dimming but I not sure if other mfgrs do similarly. One other factor that wears the tungsten electrodes happens when turning the lamp on. Striking the arc wears the electrodes down and is supposedly equivalent to 30-60 minutes of run time. It's best not to keep turning the lamp on and off. I'm sure there are other factors as well but that is beyond my understanding.
 
#3,892 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof /forum/post/20706365


Larry,

I have no knowledge about a new lamp design and that is why I said it's a newer lamp, which I believe to be true. They may have made subtle design changes and/or production/manufacturing improvements, or even sprinkled it with pixie dust
, but hopefully the "7's" solve "5's" problems!

Is the number viewable by just taking off the back cover, or do you need to remove the lamp to see it? I was just wondering if it was easy/quick to check which lamp I have.
 
#3,893 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagg /forum/post/20709123


Is the number viewable by just taking off the back cover, or do you need to remove the lamp to see it? I was just wondering if it was easy/quick to check which lamp I have.

I believe the only change is the 5 to 7 in the number you see here. There is no substantial evidence that this is a newer or better lamp in any regard until enough time passes by to see if it lasts longer than the originals.

 
#3,894 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof /forum/post/20708864


I'm not an expert in lamps nor do I understand the physics behind UHP lamps but there are significant differences between a household lamp and a UHP Mercury Lamp. The household (Edison) lamp has a tungsten filament that glows because enough current runs thru it to make it hot. A UHP lamp does not have a filament. It has two tungsten electrodes that do not touch. A arc is established between those two electrodes and this arc in combination with Ultra High Pressure (UHP) gas (mostly mercury) causes it to create a very intense light source. The amount of lumens produced are dependent on the arc gap distance and the pressure of the mercury vapor. As the electrodes wear the arc gap widens causing dimming. The gap widens because the tungsten electrodes wear but the tungsten doesn't disappear....it gets deposited on the inside of the lamp and this tungsten coating reduces the amount of light passing thru the glass and this results in dimming. Phillips adds a bromide (IIRC) to help keep the tungsten from coating the inside of the glass and this helps reduce dimming but I not sure if other mfgrs do similarly. I'm sure there are other factors as well but that is beyond my understanding.

Very nice summary.



It's also important to note that on/off cycles (especially igniting the arc while the bulb is still hot) are in many ways more important to wear/dimming than the total hours.


Planning your viewing so that you can keep the PJ on instead of turning it off several times between movies/shows, as well as making sure that you let it cool down completely before turning it on again (not just the minute or so that the fan runs), can help extend the bulb life. I'm only at around 180H on my current bulb, but so far it has been pretty consistent with it's lumens. Not sure how much of that has to do with the above, vs the luck of the draw in getting a good lamp.
 
#3,895 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagg /forum/post/20709185


Very nice summary.



It's also important to note that on/off cycles (especially igniting the arc while the bulb is still hot) are in many ways more important to wear/dimming than the total hours.

Planning your viewing so that you can keep the PJ on instead of turning it off several times between movies/shows, as well as making sure that you let it cool down completely before turning it on again (not just the minute or so that the fan runs), can help extend the bulb life. I'm only at around 180H on my current bulb, but so far it has been pretty consistent with it's lumens. Not sure how much of that has to do with the above, vs the luck of the draw in getting a good lamp.

I solved that problem by picking up this little LED pocket projector. It puts out a solid 300 lumen (my RS50 is down to 360) and works perfect with my HP screen. I use it mainly for quick on/off TV shows, kids shows, etc. This way I can save the precious JVC lamp hours for critical viewing or 3D.


It looks better than most would think for it's size and also has near dead-on greyscale calibration out of the box.


 
#3,896 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k /forum/post/20709224


This way I can save the precious JVC lamp hours for critical viewing or 3D.

Minor comment, but I think it's the "precious JVC power on's" that are actually more a factor than the "precious JVC lamp hours"... at least to some extent. From what I understand, igniting the arc between the electrodes causes more wear than letting it run after it's been ignited.


I'm sure there's a point at which it shifts the other way, IE you wouldn't want to just put the PJ on "hide" for 8 hours at a time (extreme example). But somewhere in the middle there is a balance between on/off vs hours. The important part is to understand that it's not just hours that we should worry about. For example, if you're watching two 60 minutes shows and turn the PJ off for 15 minutes between them (120 total "on" minutes), you're probably causing more wear on the bulb than if you just let it run for 135 minutes.
 
#3,897 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagg /forum/post/20709293


Minor comment, but I think it's the "precious JVC power on's" that are actually more a factor than the "precious JVC lamp hours"... at least to some extent. From what I understand, igniting the arc between the electrodes causes more wear than letting it run after it's been ignited.


I'm sure there's a point at which it shifts the other way, IE you wouldn't want to just put the PJ on "hide" for 8 hours at a time (extreme example). But somewhere in the middle there is a balance between on/off vs hours. The important part is to understand that it's not just hours that we should worry about. For example, if you're watching two 60 minutes shows and turn the PJ off for 15 minutes between them (120 total "on" minutes), you're probably causing more wear on the bulb than if you just let it run for 135 minutes.

my point is, each and every hour of the 2011 JVC's models is a costly hour considering the potential for early dimming. If the lamps were more reliable, I wouldn't feel as guilty turning it on for a few hours just to watch TV.


I am envious of the LED owners like the Vango that can just turn them on / off whenever they feel like it. That's what I can do with this little 720P LED wonder, I don't even think about. Turn it on to watch something for 22 minutes, then turn it off.


hopefully one day JVC will lead the LCOS market with an LED light engine in the next few years. Someone is going to do it at a reasonable price (under 7k market), who will it be though.
 
#3,898 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k /forum/post/20709463


hopefully one day JVC will lead the LCOS market with an LED light engine in the next few years. Someone is going to do it at a reasonable price (under 7k market), who will it be though.

Yeah, I'm keeping an eye out for that too, but I suspect it will be a while.


I'm not normally the type to upgrade things frequently though. For example, the RPTV that my RS40 replaced was a 2004 model. So, my intention is to hold on to the RS40 for quite a while. Hopefully, by then LED will be a more viable option.
 
#3,899 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagg /forum/post/20709293


Minor comment, but I think it's the "precious JVC power on's" that are actually more a factor than the "precious JVC lamp hours"... at least to some extent. From what I understand, igniting the arc between the electrodes causes more wear than letting it run after it's been ignited.


I'm sure there's a point at which it shifts the other way, IE you wouldn't want to just put the PJ on "hide" for 8 hours at a time (extreme example). But somewhere in the middle there is a balance between on/off vs hours. The important part is to understand that it's not just hours that we should worry about. For example, if you're watching two 60 minutes shows and turn the PJ off for 15 minutes between them (120 total "on" minutes), you're probably causing more wear on the bulb than if you just let it run for 135 minutes.

From what I've read the number is between 30-60 minutes. Striking the arc does wear the electrodes down and is supposedly equivalent to 30-60 minutes of run time. Personally I turn my pj on no more that once per evening. If I leave the theater I leave the projector run unless I am thru for the night.


I'll go back an update my previous post.
 
#3,900 ·
If this has already been posted sorry, could not take the time to read all of the replies. Seeing this is an issue with the RS50 was what we were looking for


We have a customer having this issue with his RS50. Rep had suggested cleaning the lamp window input.


Waiting for lamp to arrive so we can try this first. Attachment 217780

 

JVC RS Series low light output lamp window cleaning.pdf 388.005859375k . file
 

Attachments

#3,901 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgv1 /forum/post/20710287


If this has already been posted sorry, could not take the time to read all of the replies. Seeing this is an issue with the RS50 was what we were looking for


We have a customer having this issue with his RS50. Rep had suggested cleaning the lamp window input.


Waiting for lamp to arrive so we can try this first. Attachment 217780

Note that the JVC maintenance advisory does not list the RS40/50/60 models. It only lists up to the RS20/25.


Was it a JVC Rep that suggested cleaning the lamp window for a RS50?
 
#3,904 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof /forum/post/20708864


I'm not an expert in lamps nor do I understand the physics behind UHP lamps but there are significant differences between a household lamp and a UHP Mercury Lamp. The household (Edison) lamp has a tungsten filament that glows because enough current runs thru it to make it hot. A UHP lamp does not have a filament. It has two tungsten electrodes that do not touch. A arc is established between those two electrodes and this arc in combination with Ultra High Pressure (UHP) gas (mostly mercury) causes it to create a very intense light source. The amount of lumens produced are dependent on the arc gap distance and the pressure of the mercury vapor. As the electrodes wear the arc gap widens causing dimming. The gap widens because the tungsten electrodes wear but the tungsten doesn't disappear....it gets deposited on the inside of the lamp and this tungsten coating reduces the amount of light passing thru the glass and this results in dimming. Phillips adds bromide (IIRC) to help keep the tungsten from coating the inside of the glass and this helps reduce dimming but I not sure if other mfgrs do similarly. One other factor that wears the tungsten electrodes happens when turning the lamp on. Striking the arc wears the electrodes down and is supposedly equivalent to 30-60 minutes of run time. It's best not to keep turning the lamp on and off. I'm sure there are other factors as well but that is beyond my understanding.


UHP lamps also exhibit a quick dimming factor at the early stages of use (I suppose because the gap increases quickly at first), and then is supposed to equalize at a much slower rate over the rated life of the lamp. This should be in the 20-30% range over the first few hundred hours and slowly decreasing at a more constant rate after that point.


Problem is what most are seeing on both forums (40 & 50/60) is that the loss is more like 40% in that timeframe and thus could/would contribute to a premature life span of the lamp. That is whay a lot here are very skeptical that these bulbs would get anywhere near 2-3K (in any usuable fashion).


Unfortunately only time will tell and by that time the warranty would have already expired!
 
#3,905 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k /forum/post/20709224


I solved that problem by picking up this little LED pocket projector. It puts out a solid 300 lumen (my RS50 is down to 360) and works perfect with my HP screen. I use it mainly for quick on/off TV shows, kids shows, etc. This way I can save the precious JVC lamp hours for critical viewing or 3D.


It looks better than most would think for it's size and also has near dead-on greyscale calibration out of the box.


So now what we all want to see is pictures of the actual mounting in your theater for all three of these baby's!
 
#3,906 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagg /forum/post/20710412


Note that the JVC maintenance advisory does not list the RS40/50/60 models. It only lists up to the RS20/25.


Was it a JVC Rep that suggested cleaning the lamp window for a RS50?

And did they say this technique would gain us back the missing 900 Lumens??
 
#3,907 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k /forum/post/20709224


I solved that problem by picking up this little LED pocket projector. It puts out a solid 300 lumen (my RS50 is down to 360) and works perfect with my HP screen. I use it mainly for quick on/off TV shows, kids shows, etc. This way I can save the precious JVC lamp hours for critical viewing or 3D.


It looks better than most would think for it's size and also has near dead-on greyscale calibration out of the box.



This is the Vivitek Qumi, right? Do you have any info on when the 500 lumen version is due out? I'm thinking of doing the same thing.
 
#3,908 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark /forum/post/20711463


This is the Vivitek Qumi, right? Do you have any info on when the 500 lumen version is due out? I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

Joseph - Hi, i've been following these LED's for a while, it looks like race is on between Acer and Optoma for the 500 lumen models. I believe Optoma said not until October (along with the 1.4 GT750) on their facebook site.


This leaves Acer to see if they can jump in sooner for August/September. This little QUMI is a marvel of modern science considering it's size and overall nice IQ. It's not much dimmer than my RS50 now @ 360 lumens and the gray scale was nearly dead on out of the box so face tones appear accurate. The saturation is a little hot.


it works well with the big HP in a dark room, the 500 lumen model would be perfect as a 'TV' projector used for quick on/off whenever you feel like it. The resolution of the new DLP chip appears higher than the Acer by a bit because of the diamond shaped pixels (text suffers though for windows desktop use).
 
#3,909 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k /forum/post/20713237


Joseph - Hi, i've been following these LED's for a while, it looks like race is on between Acer and Optoma for the 500 lumen models. I believe Optoma said not until October (along with the 1.4 GT750) on their facebook site.


This leaves Acer to see if they can jump in sooner for August/September. This little QUMI is a marvel of modern science considering it's size and overall nice IQ. It's not much dimmer than my RS50 now @ 360 lumens and the gray scale was nearly dead on out of the box so face tones appear accurate. The saturation is a little hot.


it works well with the big HP in a dark room, the 500 lumen model would be perfect as a 'TV' projector used for quick on/off whenever you feel like it. The resolution of the new DLP chip appears higher than the Acer by a bit because of the diamond shaped pixels (text suffers though for windows desktop use).

Great. I'll keep an eye out for these.
 
#3,911 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof /forum/post/20713226


I'm sorry, I did not see this post until now but I do not know the answer. I never removed the lamp cover from my RS50 and I've sold it locally and no longer have it (and I'm still waiting for my RS40 to arrive). When I get the RS40 I'll look to see which series lamp is installed.

No problem. I was just curious if anybody knew off the top of their head whether or not I would need to remove the bulb to find the number. I'll find out tonight though.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top