Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.
My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.
Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.
Edit: I replaced my settings with the latest collaborative table that shows my settings along with settings from zoyd, cue03, and LarryInRI
Start with a default Movie or Cal-D/N mode (reset your settings).
Turn off any image "improvement" features you can in both Advanced Settings and Picture Options (dynamic contrast, black tone, noise filter, etc). And engage CinemaSmooth if available. (Make sure that ECO sensor and Power Saving are turned off in the General settings.)
Choose a target gamma: ~2.2 for bright, ~2.35 for dim and ~2.45 for dark rooms (I target 2.40 because the room is sealed but the walls are white...)
for ~2.2, leave your Gamma at 0, for ~2.3 set it to -1 and for ~2.4, set it to -2 (In case you calibrate with 60Hz, set it one notch lower if you go below 0).
-> You can measure the gray-scale to choose the value.
Set the Cell Light to get a comfortable peak white output (or measure 100% white with a Small APL gray-scale pattern and set it to achieve 80-120 for dark-bright room).
Go through the Basic Settings section of the AVSHD test disc to set up Contrast, Brightness and Sharpness using your naked eyes (skip Color and Tint).
(You may also want to take a look at the gray ramp from the Misc / Additional section to set the Contrast properly. -> lower it if near-white looks tinted)
Use the Red and Blue 2p controls to set 30% and 80% (do not touch the Green gain).
Move all the Red,Green,Blue gains from 10p together to get the luminance (gamma) as close as possible to your target curve.
Use the 10p Red and Blue gains to correct the white balance across the gray-scale (do not touch Green unless you want to alter the luminance).
Now start it over from the Basic adjustments:
Check if black (Brightness) is still aligned properly and you still didn't run out of the digital contrast.
Measure the whole gray-scale again and do some fine-tuning if necessary (for both gamma and white balance).
Repeat the whole cycle as many times as you feel it necessary but three times should be more than enough (unless you did something wrong).
Calibrate your Custom Color Space settings. (Set up every colors one-by-one...)
Check you gray-scale again and re-measure your 2D gamut. Do some fine-tuning if you feel it necessary.
If every charts look good in CalMan, then check the sanity of the settings by loading up the small and big step gray ramps and the color steps patterns from the Misc / Additional section (use your naked eyes).
Many will probably disagree, but I recommend to use the Small APL patterns (or may be small windows if you can, but not the big APL ones or the big windows) and measure the gamut at 100% (not default 75%).
Another advice: Set your player/box to output in this priority: YCC 4:2:2, YCC 4:4:4, RGB Limited, RGB Full (the actual names can vary from devices to devices, YCC is often Rec709, RGB sometimes just Limited and Full, etc).
Jnos666. Thanks for the reply. One thing that u stated is not to touch the green gain and offset at 30 and 80 when doing the 2pt. I have read that before from other people but was wondering why when cnet calibrated this set they adjusted the green gain and offset?
I have no idea why the CNET calibrator changed the Green gain.
There could be various reasons to do that but I couldn't find any with these D-series PDPs. It's the best to leave it as is.
For example, when you have 2p options only (no 10p) then you may want to tweak the tonal response (~gamma) a bit by adjusting the luminance at 30 and 80% levels. (It can be useful in PC mode.)
Another possible situation is when you have color clipping problems (you run out of the digital contrast) which can't be solved with the Contrast control and you try to lower all the gains a bit.
Nothing else comes to my mind but there could be various reasons.
My best guess is that the CNET calibrator wasn't familiar with the TV or he acted like an android and followed a strict routine, no matter what. Or he experimented even more than me and he found it better this way. I don't know...
Ok I tried entering in 4 of the 8000 series calibrations and I hated all of them...just looked way too dim
So far my favorite (don't throw stones) is Dynamic picture mode, the colors aren't perfect but I guess I like a bright image. Are there any customer calibrations that have an image more in line with the Dynamic picture mode?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21086877
Ok I tried entering in 4 of the 8000 series calibrations and I hated all of them...just looked way too dim
So far my favorite (don't throw stones) is Dynamic picture mode, the colors aren't perfect but I guess I like a bright image. Are there any customer calibrations that have an image more in line with the Dynamic picture mode?
Well that's the thing about calibration, other than ranges for contrast and gamma there is only one answer. If each mode could be "calibrated" the picture would be identical for all modes. If you prefer an uncalibrated image then you'll have to adjust to your taste since there is no way for someone else to know what you prefer. Also remember that using the settings in this thread does not mean your display is calibrated, it is probably closer to calibrated than the factory settings but still could have significant errors in grayscale or color. TivoHD and Cue's D8000 settings should be fine for a bright room, try one of them out for a couple of days to see if they grow on you and you may prefer setting dynamic contrast to low or medium.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/21086937
Well that's the thing about calibration, other than ranges for contrast and gamma there is only one answer. If each mode could be "calibrated" the picture would be identical for all modes. If you prefer an uncalibrated image then you'll have to adjust to your taste since there is no way for someone else to know what you prefer. Also remember that using the settings in this thread does not mean your display is calibrated, it is probably closer to calibrated than the factory settings but still could have significant errors in grayscale or color. TivoHD and Cue's D8000 settings should be fine for a bright room, try one of them out for a couple of days to see if they grow on you and you may prefer setting dynamic contrast to low or medium.
That is the odd thing, I tried TivoHD's setting thinking that may be the answer with the cell light at 20 but honestly the colors were terrible and appeared aside from too dim a bit green/blue. I was looking to be a little more accurate (not professionally calibrated) but I believe I went in the opposit direction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/20405730
Custom color space is shared by these modes and I calibrated it for the CAL-D/N modes so there are some relatively small errors in color if you use these movie mode settings.
I use Cal D/N for viewing with CS off and Movie for viewing with CS on. I have new calibrations for Movie with CS on using a manually edited Native color table which is only accessible using the RS-232 debug port. I don't think it's worth posting those since the errors in using posted settings are probably larger than the errors in CS on vs. off plus I don't think too many people want to go through the trouble of building debug cables unless they do their own calibrations.
Technically no, the custom colorspace for the two are significantly different. In my case I have edited the Native colorspace in the service menu to use with movie mode. However, in your case I just don't know if the error in using borrowed settings in greater than or less than the error in using one colorspace for Cal D/N vs. Movie.
For my D7000, I found that the calibrated color space values for Movie are quite close to those calibrated for the CAL modes -- close enough to be imperceptible visually. On the other hand, I found that the calibrated white balance values were significantly different between the Movie and CAL modes. In particular, the red offsets and gains needed to be increased substantially tn the CAL modes. (Of course, there is the difference is gamma setting but that's another discussion.)
Another reason why that unless you measure the various options on your own display just pick the set of posted settings you like best, tweak to your personal preferences and don't worry about it.
Does anyone know a proper calibration for PS3 games? I am using the PN51D8000. In movie mode, it's a little dark. I'd rather have the brights pop for gaming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/21088312
Another reason why that unless you measure the various options on your own display just pick the set of posted settings you like best, tweak to your personal preferences and don't worry about it.
Yes. I've said it a number of times in this thread -- copying settings do not work well for these Samsungs. And there is a big inherent difference between the D7000 and D8000 settings.
BTW have you measured the black level on your 51D8000 lately? I did a 500 mile check-up on my 64D7000 Friday night and found that it is still at 0.006 ftL. That was measured with multiple readings on my LT after reaching ambient screen temperature and immediately after a black level initialization. It is the same as when I took the first reading on this new panel at about 150 hours.
Is there a set of settings in ehre (which would be applicable to the 7000) which is considered the go to settings for many? This is a ton of pages with a lot of talking abck and forth instead of calibrations so it wouldn't be easy for me to figure out if any are thought to be the best by a lot of people as is usually the case in these threads. I did read the first page although also my model and size don't match up with any on there. Shouldn't be a big deal, but who knows.
I measured 0.045 cd/m^2 with 60Hz after the first 200 hours long synthetic break-in and I measured the same last time I calibrated the TV when it had ~1000 hours in it.
I think it's close to ~1800 now, I will check it again when I got my serial adapter but I don't think it will ever rise.
I always measured the black after the cells was charged up. The black bars can go much lower during a long cinema movie and I can see a gray "cinema screen" in the middle of the display when there is a really dark scene in the movie. It is a bit annoying. Seriously, it would be better to keep the black bars lighter. I thought about it to fill them with very dark gray.
I measure about the same as janos666, 0.05 cd/m^2 60Hz and 0.075 cd/m^2 96Hz and that hasn't changed since I got it. Though using an LT I would not be surprised if that number were +/- 20%.
A ColorMunki spectro with ArgyllCMS drivers in Adaptive HighRes mode (much longer integration time than with normal mode).
I still don't trust in it any lower than this, but somebody measured exactly the same values on the same display model with his Klein K-10 as me, so I trust in it as much that it would indicate any black level rising.
(The same person also told me that bigger panels have significantly lower MLL.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/21088516
I measure about the same as janos666, 0.05 cd/m^2 60Hz and 0.075 cd/m^2 96Hz and that hasn't changed since I got it. Though using an LT I would not be surprised if that number were +/- 20%.
Interesting. About six months ago I had the low level accuracy of my LT verified with a Konica Minolta LS-100. It was good down to below 0.02 cd/m^2. I have confidence in my 0.024 cd/m^2 reading.
Eh am I missing something? If the numbers are really 0.05 to 0.07 that's horrible. That's worse than my 5 year old lcd.
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