Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.
My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.
Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.
Edit: I replaced my settings with the latest collaborative table that shows my settings along with settings from zoyd, cue03, and LarryInRI
I don't know, but Samsung is dumb. Not only is the whole brightness fluctuations some experience due to soemthing as simple as Samsung not letting a feature be optional, but the morons make it where if you're in game mode YOU MUST use movie sound setting and can't change it to standard or normal or whatever it's called. The point of game mode is mostly to cut down on lag, not to force someone to use a surround type of audio! So for rock band 3 it's not good to play in game mode,l for example due to the music not sounding right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/21097766
These controls occur before the 10bit VP when mapping input signals to the video processor (like an ICC profile but with the ability to under and overshoot the VP range ).
Is the VP 10-bit only? As I remember Samsung claimed 18-bit for the C Series and my previous display with it's 12-bit VP didn't tolerate the calibration this much (yap, it also depends on the algorithms, calculation precision isn't everything, but...).
For some reason I thought ADC is placed after the VP where the analog LVDS signal is converted from the digital data. (And I wondered why it's ADC and not DAC.
And now that I wrote it down I remember I solved this puzzle earlier and I just forgot it.
)
In this case, it's better to keep the ADC Results at their nominal values.
By the way, do you know the nominal values? (Not your actual auto-calibration results.) The automatic calibration can give me slightly different results depending on where I left the values before I run it.
Anyway, forget about it. I took some more gray-scale readings today and it isn't that smooth.
Yes, there is a small Red clipping at the upper end, so IRE100 is cut to produce D65 and otherwise the whole gradient is smooth but evenly reddish below ~IRE95.
Sorry, bad choice of words, the ADC is 10 bit (look at the target values) so the VP can be better resolution with upsampling. LVDS is digital. Nominal values from the service manual for _L=131 and _H=107. The HDMI target values are not editable, upper one is 940 which leaves some room for Superwhites, but was thinking of setting for full scale 16-235 to increase resolutions, what do you think?
I need BTB and WTW because this is my PC monitor, and my VGA card always outputs Full Range RGB. (The range expansion hurts the video a bit but it's not that bad with 10 bit/color and I am free to add some dithering if I wish...)
Try to run a calibration with 16-235 RGB signal.
My ADC Results from the last autocal are L=134 H=49 (I calibrated with 0-255 RGB signal), so these settings aren't exchangeable between different models.
Where did you get the Service Manual? (Did you buy it or you just found it somewhere?)
----
Does anybody have a spreadsheet which can help to find the gamut luminance targets (especially for the secondary colors)?
I want to use ArgyllCMS instead of CalMan (it supports an "Adaptive HiRes" mode for my spectro), and I don't mind to combine it with MS Excel.
I know the reference x,y coordinates of the primaries and secondaries, and I can also calculate the luminance targets for the primaries, but I am clueless about the secondaries.
dE2000 ~0.5 for white. I care more about the adaptive integration time mode. It's useful for displays with relatively high contrast and it's also more plasma dither friendly.
I want to keep as many settings at their default values as possible, so it's easier to handle the others (and avoid any possible counter-corrections...)
The service manual used to instruct the technician to calibrate every new panels with these WB settings. I guess it's better to keep these at 128 and set up Warm2 for D65.
Sorry. I know how to change these values. I was curious if you leave them at 128 or you use them for your gray-scale calibration.
But your table answers my question: you leave them at 128. I did the same in the past (these controls were available in the plain Service Menu) and I decided to do it now too.
Did you intentionally increased your "Sub Brightness" or was it your default value?
I reset all of these values on my first main-board (which had factory calibrated values) and my current main-board (replacement) arrived with all-128 WB settings.
This Sub Brightness seems to be effective in non-Movie modes only but the Sub Brightness and the Gains/Cuts are "system wide" (they apply even for the PC mode which needs different ADC calibration settings).
good day all, I have the 51d6500 and when I set black level using the calibration disc from here, the one where you have the bars flashing and you want 17-25 to flash I belive. On my 42b450 I can set this perfectly no green,red, blue dancing pixels in bars but when I try this on the d6500 I get the dancing pixels in the bars. On the rest of the screen there is no green pixels mixed with the black, so I know the brightness and contrast isnt set to high. is something wrong with my tv or is that normal with a bigger screen and going from 720p to 1080p. I also get a lot of dithering(green pixels) from going from black to grey although I can only see up close maybe 2 ft away. I have uverse but I also see it on blu rays from ps3 also. Just curious if this is normal
If you are getting dancing green pixels on that brightness patter, in the left handside area thats blakc, brightness may still be too high. I use DVE, and when brightness is too high, the video black areas have green dancing pixels. Once brightness is right by the pattern, sometimes it takes one more click to kill the "greenies".
Quote:
Originally Posted by movielocke /forum/post/21098568
the AVforum.com review (which I realize is UK) of the d8000 64inch says that you can't turn off noise reduction unless you're in game mode. Has this been fixed by firmware? Can you make all the expert calibrations in game mode? Or is this only a UK issue I don't need to worry about?
It was a problem only with the European models. It has been since fixed with a firmware update. Although there are similarities between the EU and North American models, there are differences too.
Yea the black outside the bars is fine I take it down till( the greenies)disappear its the bars that have them except instead of the greenies the bars have more of red/blue/green combo. Cant get rid of them , so iwasnt sure if it was the tv or because the greyscale isnt calibrated correctly using the right tools. Is there a reason why on my b450 the bars are clean just like the black on the leftside and on the d6500 its not, just curious. Same with dithering I get more on this one the older one, maybe size? I wanted to say great work on finding out how to unlock the D series service menu. Too bad we cant tell samsung you have a bug in your sm, the 00000 doesn't open the advanced menu, to fix it lol.
Zoyd or Jano666 can I get into the tdm if I hook up my pc to the tv using the regular monitor cable or do you need a special cable for it.
It's a low power (3.3V) serial connection. You need an adapter (either an USB->TTL or a 10V->3.3V serial adapter) and connect the wires to either a 3.5 jack or the VGA connector on your TV (it depends on the display model).
I used a Nokia CA-42 cable (more precisely I received a chinese replica which caused me some troubles with the drivers but I finally got it work).
But the more time I spend with it, the more I think it's useless for me.
I tried to calibrate my TV on different ways using the new possibilities but I couldn't really achieve any better results. I improve one thing and break two others.
I am currently struggling with a small color clipping and some interaction between the 10p gray-scale controls.
I think I will simply revert every changes and restore my old calibration settings.
Don't sell yourself short Janos666 , It is still awesome, yes I did say awesome
What you a zoyd have been able to figure out. Now we can have the night/day cal and movie modes with a different custom colorspace and also like in the previous years models we can now turn on wbmovie so the default mode will now be movie instead of dynamic. With you movie mode settings set as default. Now I really wish I had the tools to try to do a real calibration
. So I say thank you thank you thank you.
Hey so what I'm experiencing with the tv is normal then?
Save your thanks to the SamyGo members, I just asked them to give me the serial console unlock codes.
Unfortunately not every Movie mode settings can be changed permanently. The default color tone is always Warm2, HDMI Black always returns to Low, etc.
But yes, you can make some permanent changes to make your life easer.
On the other hand, you can also make it more difficult. I feel like I wasted this whole day for nothing. My main goal was to unlock the Cal-Day/Night on my EU model but seems impossible possible (not even from the TDM). And I couldn't really improve my calibration.
You say the non-functional "0000" trick is a bug? Imagine that every single TDM items which aren't present in the "middle-level" Service Menu (after you hit Factory and 3Speed) miss their names in the Top Debug Menu. I have to deal with sub-menus and settings like:
[5] ...
[6] ...
I don't think they were intended to be used by anybody (not even Samsung technicians).
Plasmas will always have to dither the 1st couple of bars so my guess is your b450 couldn't display the low levels properly due to lower bit level VP processing.
@janos666
How did you get the ADC adjustments to "stick". I'm trying to clip the input at level 240 and I can see it clipping in the pattern but when I reboot the TV it's back to normal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/21101675
How did you get the ADC adjustments to "stick". I'm trying to clip the input at level 240 and I can see it clipping in the pattern but when I reboot the TV it's back to normal.
Every time I want to check the result of the adjustment, I switch between Movie and Standard mode or adjust the Brightness up and down by one. It makes the settings effective, otherwise you stuck in the intermediate mode which is triggered when you start to adjust any of those values.
Try this:
Start from 0,0,0,0,0,0
Set you Brightness and Contrast to default and choose your Gamma according to your target.
Display any image with reference white and reference black on it.
Increase one of the L values until black just remains black (you may want to use the up100). Copy this for the other two L values and check if black is still black without any amount of color noise.
Increase one of the H values until black just remains black (yes, black again) and copy the value.
Zoyd. If you use large apl and crank contrast, does the abl kick in even on those patterns. Just wondering how you can tell when it kicks in, other than the gamma drop off at high ire when checking with a meter.
Easy to tell if ABL limits your brightness on your actual pattern: just compare the luminance measurements of IRE100 with the Small APL measurement.
I can't use Large APL because I want ~90-100 cd/m^2 peak luminance but ABL kicks in with the Large APL patterns with this setup.
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