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LG Plasma Panel tweaks for better blacks.

259K views 1K replies 191 participants last post by  Dirtgarry 
#1 ·
For the last few months there have been a few brave individuals who have begun the task of technically improving the black levels on their LG plasmas by tweaking a few pots on the actual boards inside the sets so I believe a dedicated thread should be started.

Mind you, all tweaks are at your own risk, will void your warranty and you could be exposed to lethal voltages
, but the procedure could be rewarding.
And of course AVSFORUMS nor the posters can be held legally responsible for any mishaps, panel misbehavior and non-reversible disasters, proceed at your own risk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b /forum/post/21562480

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweaking


"Tweaking

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


This article is about hardware and software tweaking. For the drug-induced behavior, see Stereotypy. For other uses, see Tweaker (disambiguation).


Tweaking refers to fine-tuning or adjusting a complex system, usually an electronic device. Tweaks are any small modifications intended to improve a system.


In electronics, it is a synonym for "trimming." Analog circuit boards often have small potentiometers or other components on them that are used to calibrate or adjust the board as a service procedure: the small insulated screwdriver used to turn them is often called a "tweaker."
"

The posts that started it all


03-19-11, 12:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/20174285


@rpauls

Simply put (my tuningmanual is in german), you have to turn the potis named "Set_UP" and "Set_Dn" clockwise until you get pixelmissfires and/or artifacts in the highlights.


Also it would show to help a minimum of MLL to turn the poti names "VY" completely counter clockwise and the poti names "VA" completely clockwise.


But beware! You lose your warranty!


And do it slow, in case you run in a safety shutdown of your TV.

05-24-11, 10:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauri /forum/post/20483346


All the documentation is available in U.S. english



This is the complete LG plasma Panel Alignment Book (quick reference), latest version (03/31/2011): http://136.166.4.200/contents/Displa...t_Handbook.pdf


LG U.S. got the explanations from the complete Training Manuals of many plasma models, and they have arranged that book. Read it carefully before start to do something. If you have never done such things before, it is better to have a look for an expert TV tech friend. The right way to arrange the tuning work, is to use a big mirror. Put the TV screen in front of the mirror and look at the mirror during tuning. Use only full plastic screwdrivers (easy available and very cheap) and remember that there could be high voltages on some circuits, so be careful. It is like to work on tube amps, you know? Only a bit more difficult because you are working on big screens, and that's the reason why you need to use a mirror (for safety reasons, at first).


For many plasma models, complete informations and training manuals (very useful) are also available. On this page there is the list: http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/Directview_PDP.htm


clic on the model you are interesting for, and on the left of the new page you will find the docs available for download. There is even the new 50PZ950 and PV450 models, as well as the PK950 and 750.


With such informations available, I think LG plasma are well worth a look. I'm going to buy a 60PK980 (same of 60PK950) during the next days. Now it has a very good price in my Country (1170 euro including shipping) and it is the right time to buy it. I'm not interesting in the actual 3D stuff.


'sorry for my bad english, and best regards from Italy


Mauri

05-21-11, 06:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/20469656


No, it does not hurt the brightness of the picture. It only affects MLL.



The potis inside the TV are labeled with their names.


1. Start a Blu-ray-Disc


2. Turn "Va" full throttle clockwise


3. Turn Vy full throttle counterclockwise



After that turn "Set_Up" clockwise untill you get noise in very bright moviescenes. Turn a microamount counterclockwise untill the noise disappears.


Finally turn "Set_Dn" clockwise untill you get pixelmissfires. Turn a microamount counterclockwise untill you dont' get new pixelmissfires.


Congratulations to your new KURO (8G or 9G) MLL.


added Jan 5th 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiremite /forum/post/21407861


I did get a kick out of tweaking my brother Bob's LG. Seeing in real tiime the grey bars turn pitch black was very satifying. The black level definitely matches (exceeds!?) my ST30 black levels. That a little analog knob could have so much control seems comical when you consider the advanced technology that gets poured into these panels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21223473


Hehe



Even on my own PK350 I tried very different approaches. One method included Va full clockwise and the one I am using at this moment is the opposite-> Va full counterclockwise.



Each method has consequences for the other pots. If I set Va full clockwise, I cannot go so far with Set_Dn and I can't use Vs-Boost.


If I set Va full counterclockwise, I have more headroom for Set_Dn but a little less headroom for Set_Up but I can boost Vs a little bit, to make up for that, so that I have again the headroom for turning Set_Up more clockwise.


Generally are Set_Up, Set_Dn and Vy the only three of the seven pots, which have a direct influence on the black level.


Also generally there are three pots, which can cause vertical noise patterns-> Vs, Set_Dn and Vy.


One could say with Va full clockwise the danger of getting pixelmissfires out of a black screen to a bright screen (Disney Castle on Disney BDs for example) is not so high as it is with Va counterclockwise, but with counterclockwise the chance of getting missfires during an actual moviescene is lower.


If one decide to better just get some little pixelmissfires sometimes for getting even more out of his panel mll wise, he could experiment mit the pot VSC, cause with VSC at the right sweet spot, the ability of your panel to erase false fired pixels can be sped up.


VZB also has a sweet spot, that you can find the best with halflit secenes leike the one in "The American" ight at the sturt, when Clooney lies there with his soon to be dead girlfriend-> You turn VZB full counterclockwise: The picture will have lost its depth. Now you move slowly(!) micrometer for micrometer clockwise just to the point, where this moviescene jumps back to depth and contrast.


This is what you might get with the seven pots, if you set it too much clockwise or counterclockwise:


VZB____: noise (clockwise) or dullness (counterclockwise)

Vs_____: noisy whites/pixelmissfires (clockwise) or dullness/extreme pixelmissfires (counterclockwise)

VA_____: none obvious erros but possible pixelmissfires with static fullgreen screen (clockwise)

VSC____: None obvious errors or artifacts

Vy_____: noise/less MLL (clockwise) or better MLL (counterclockwise)

Set_Up_: pixelmissfires/better MLL (clockwise) or bad MLL (counterclockwise)

Set_Dn_: noise/better MLL (clockwise) or bad MLL


Added Nov 30th

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=21281625



Quote:
Originally Posted by harvro01 /forum/post/21281625


Just wanted to share my experience in doing these adjustments, I was hesitant to do it in the first place as I was concerned about what was actually happening, however I downloaded and read the factory manuals which explained a lot.


I have a 60PK550


The end result is WOW, what a difference. A fair bit of work tweaking various pots (I did all 7) but the end result is worth it. WAY deeper blacks, no difference in terms of noise or pixel misfires.


My experience with the various adjustments (and in the order I did them, following the factory LG sequence from the manual) is as follows:

VS: Counterclockwise results in some noise in lighter pixels and lowers MLL, turning clockwise corrects the pixel noise and raises MLL but too far clockwise, and my set just shuts off and will not restart. In the end, I only adjusted this pot a hair clockwise to get rid of the white pixel noise.
VA: Clockwise lowers MLL.Did not cause any misfires for me so mine is cranked fully clockwise.
VSC: Made no appreciable difference one way or the other to anything so mine is left at centre position.
Vy: Turning clockwise results in higher MLL, counterclockwise results in lower MLL. Does not appear to introduce any artifacts or noise so mine is cranked counterclockwise.
Set_Up: Clockwise lowers MLL. I've read that turning this fully clockwise can cause some pixel misfires, however this does not appear to be the case with my set, so mine is fully cranked.
Set_Down: Clockwise lowers MLL, however fully clockwise for me also introduces may pixel errors, pixels not resetting after changing colour, so I had to back mine off a bit from fully cranked clockwise until these disappeared.
VZB: Appears to affect the 'dullness' of the overall image, minimal effect on MLL that I can tell. Clockwise seems to give the picture more 'pop', while counterclockwise gives a more washed out image. Mine is cranked fully clockwise.


As others have said, I'm sure individual results differ, but for me, the few hours tweaking these pots and looking at test images and videos are well worth it. I would say that black letterbox bars are more or less gone and blend into the bezel now. Images seem to have way more pop and depth. I have never had any issues with image retention with my set (14 months old now) and nothing seems to have changed in this regard with the tweaks.


Initially, I was trying to follow the technical manual and adjust VS and VA to the voltages listed on my panel sticker as suggested. Mine were slightly off from the sticker. This however raised the MLL and so I just fiddled with pots to see what happened in the end. I'm glad I did.

Added December 8th 2011 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=21314111

Quote:
Originally Posted by walt73 /forum/post/21314111


I did the tweak on my 50PK550 (North American model, Mar 2010 build) this morning with stunning results (so far).


Following the tips in this thread, I adjusted only VY and Set_Up. Factory presets were 4 and 1 o'clock respectively; I started by turning these to 2 and 7 o'clock (i.e. Set_Up maxed out). Wow! Massive instant improvement! Turned TV off and allowed to cool 45 mins. TV back on, again v deep black level ... BUT suddenly saw too many misfiring pixels (unacceptably noisy-looking picture).


I decided to proceed as follows: sit at my preferred view distance (lately 63") and then throttle back VY and Set_Up, not necessarily til absolutely no pixels misfired, but only until I judged the results to be tolerable in actual viewing. (I figured I was willing to trade off a certain amount of picture noise for better black level -- exactly how much noise, to be discovered by experiment.)


I did all tests in 72Hz mode since on my set the MLL is visibly better than it is in 60Hz. I know in theory it should be the other way round but I'm not the first to report this on the 50" model of the PK550. To get the colour bar patterns, played on PS3, converted to 1080p24 I used an outboard video processor (DVDO Edge); I also tried some HD cable movies and of course Blu-rays.


Eventually I settled into VY 3 o'clock and Set_Up 5 o'clock. If I look very very hard (from 63" away) at the blue and red on the colour bar pattern I can still sometimes barely see the occasional misfiring pixel. BFD; black levels are now insanely good, and besides, I can't see the misfiring at all during a movie. With my bias light on (GE 20W Daylite flourescent strip 6500K) black appears almost as black as the bezel. I don't have a light meter so I can't say what the MLL is exactly. Suffice it to say it's pretty freakin' black. If I wanted to I could probably watch this set in the dark. (I couldn't before the tweak; MLL was way too high for that.)


I watched half of Sin City Blu-ray and was utterly floooooored by the new improved contrast. Other PQ-demanding films which instantly went from blah to wow: Dracula (Coppola), The Spirit, dark scenes in Pirates/Caribbean #1. Can't wait to try more.


I'd like to say a huge thank you to the contributors to this thread. What an awesome tweak. I will post back if I run into any issues in future.


PS: 50PK550 owners: As you remove the back cover watch out for the mini screws around the component video inputs; they're easy to overlook. Ditto for the lone screw near the HDMI ins and the one by the power socket.

added December 20th 2011

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpauls /forum/post/21373555


When my 60PK540 was new it was measuring an MLL of .018 FtL for 60Hz inputs, which I was pretty happy with. However, now after a year of use I noticed the black level had risen quite a bit. Last night I measured it at .036 FtL (Never heard of LG MLL rise issues, so not sure what's up). In any event, I decided to try this pot tweak. The results were amazing.


I followed the LG training manual exactly.


First I measured all the voltages Vs, Va, Vy, VSC, VZB, and all were very close (within 1 volt) of the number on the panel sticker so I left them alone.


Then I got out the scope and locked on to the waveform as explained in the training manual. The Set Up portion of the waveform was supposed to be 280V, mine was measuring nearly 350V, the Set Down was supposed to be 140us long, mine was only 125us. I adjusted both pots until the readings were as close as possible to specs. I could only get Set up down to 290V even at full clockwise excursion, but I could get set down to exactly 140us, and both ramps in the waveform looked just like the picture. (Note, for all these measurements the set must be showing a full white 100% screen for at least 15 minutes)


Well I went back out front, turned off the whitewash and I the screen was so dark I thought it was off!


I got my probe out and it measured .008 FtL. Needless to say I am very happy with the results.


So in summary, I did not touch any of the 5 voltage pots, they were right on from the factory. I adjusted set up and set down only exactly as described in the manual and the results are amazing.


I will proceed to do a full grayscale and CMS calibration tonight and compare with my results with my measurements before the procedure, but I am very optimistic. The picture looks great.


Rich
 
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1
#27 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by katzman /forum/post/21206624


I tried it on my 850u Panasonic and ended up having a service tech come out and replace a board! Luckily I had bought an extended warranty. No place for idiots like me to play!

sorry to hear that.

can you be more specific about what you did and what board was changed?



Looks like the LGs get really nice after the adjustments.
 
#28 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CalWldLif /forum/post/21205247


.004 ?

0.00357 ftl



EDIT: The main reason, why LG throw so much room for good MLL away is the way, the power supply works after a cold start of the set. Depending on room temperature it takes the power supply up to two minutes to reach full throttle.


So LG goes the safe way to avoid pixel missfires after a cold start.
 
#29 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21207420


0.00357 ftl



EDIT: The main reason, why LG throw so much room for good MLL away is the way, the power supply works after a cold start of the set. Depending on room temperature it takes the power supply up to two minutes to reach full throttle.

Which why LG insists on a minimum 10 minute warm up before adjustments.
 
#30 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21207420


0.00357 ftl



EDIT: The main reason, why LG throw so much room for good MLL away is the way, the power supply works after a cold start of the set. Depending on room temperature it takes the power supply up to two minutes to reach full throttle.


So LG goes the safe way to avoid pixel missfires after a cold start.

very respectable.

Very nice it can be achieved.
 
#31 ·
I don't have the Service Manual of my TV but I found an old manual for a Samsung PDP from 2007.

It mentions Vs, Va, Ve, Vsc voltges on the SMPS (power supply) board and Vb, Vbf on X and Y boards (it says you shouldn't touch these latter two and you should adjust the SMPS-Main voltages according to the printed label inside the TV). And it shows this nice graph -> see the attachment


I couldn't really recognise the pots on the small pictures of the borads. But I wonder if they are still there on D-series PDPs and they can be used just like with these LGs.
 
#33 ·
Cool thread!! I am not a service tech and I don’t know the LG driving system but I have a little knowledge on PDP waveforms in general. Just wondering, do you guys know what portion of the waveform does what and for what purpose? It looks a lot like the Panasonic waveform which I know a little.


Cheers
 
#34 ·
@xrox


Do you know if the amount of light generated by the first sub-field is significantly affected by the initialization or not?


I mean... you may tune down the MLL but keep the brightness of the lowest possible dark shade as the thresholds for the spatial/temporal dithering was optimized for the factory default MLL and first sub-field combination. This could mean some black-crush.


I already have some black-crush on my Samsung when I calibrate it to gamma 2.4 because the darkest possible shades correspond to level ~21. So what if I could tune down the MLL significantly? If the first sub-field remains the same, it could mean crush between level 16 and 28??? May be too much...
 
#35 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 /forum/post/21207947


@xrox


Do you know if the amount of light generated by the first sub-field is significantly affected by the initialization or not?

Do you mean:


1 - The MLL light output impacting the 1st subfield light output (i.e. - MLL(low)+1st subfield being very different from MLL(high)+first subfield?)


or


2 - Changes to the MLL waveform and discharge impacting the 1st subfield waveform and discharge?




If #2 I'd have to see the entire waveform for several subfields.
 
#36 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox /forum/post/21208075


1 - The MLL light output impacting the 1st subfield light output (i.e. - MLL(low)+1st subfield being very different from MLL(high)+first subfield?)


2 - Changes to the MLL waveform and discharge impacting the 1st subfield waveform and discharge?

1 mainly, but now that you say 2 would be also good to know.


I am concerned about the "gap" between the MLL and the first sub-field's light outputs because I am neither a black-crush or dither noise fan.

When I read your "Kuro tech explained" I liked the idea of the '14 sub-fields with very low light first' very much. And I would be terrified if I had to place the darkest possible non-MLL shade of my Samsung D-Seres PDP on a gamma curve starting from something like 0.012 cd/m^2 MLL (if the light out of the first sub-field doesn't follow the change linearly or drop even faster - the latter would also be an improvement alone...).
 
#37 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 /forum/post/21208205


I am concerned about the "gap" between the MLL and the first sub-field's light outputs because I am neither a black-crush or dither noise fan.

A valid concern. Pioneer publically has stated (through science journals) that they had the same concerns as you when developing KURO. The larger the gap between the MLL and the 1st subfield the more visible the dither. On the other hand if the MLL is too high AND too close to the 1st subfield then black crush. Ideally the MLL must be very low AND the 1st subfield optimized.


Quote from Pioneer scientists "Decreasing black luminance poses another issue of deteriorations of picture quality particularly at dark scenes because the luminance gap between black and LSB-SF increases. This increased luminance gap causes the noisy dithering or error diffusion picture. Therefore it is very important to reduce the luminance of LSB-SF."


LSB=least significant bit
 
#38 ·
I completed the adjustments on my PK550 as outlined in this thread. I have watched scenes from different movies, some football, let the set cool off and re-started it.


I can say this:


WOW!!!!!!


What a difference! The picture just pops off the screen! The space scenes at the beginning of Avatar are JAW DROPPING! Watching scenes from Batman Begins (which is a 'dark' movie) take on a new look. Letterbox bars now look closer to the color of the bezel.


Now, I doubt this is close to Kuro blacks (and we know that there is much more to great black level than just adjusting a few pots), but I feel confident in saying that this makes LG plasma's VERY competitive to the other makers in regards to MLL. Also, I am viewing in a light controlled room and my set has been fully calibrated with an i-one display meter/color HFCR so YMMV. (I plan on treating myself this Christmas to the new i-one display 3 meter. I am really looking forward to viewing the picture after that calibration
).


All in all, I am extremely pleased with the picture now. Well worth the time in doing this! A big THANKS to all who brought this to the forum!!
 
#39 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyoctave /forum/post/21208589


I completed the adjustments on my PK550 as outlined in this thread. I have watched scenes from different movies, some football, let the set cool off and re-started it.


I can say this:


WOW!!!!!!


What a difference! The picture just pops off the screen! The space scenes at the beginning of Avatar are JAW DROPPING! Watching scenes from Batman Begins (which is a 'dark' movie) take on a new look. Letterbox bars now look closer to the color of the bezel.


......


All in all, I am extremely pleased with the picture now. Well worth the time in doing this! A big THANKS to all who brought this to the forum!!

I am very close to addressing this same issue as it has been a concern since I purchased my 50PV450. While I'm satisfied with the natural color and the results of a professional calibration, the grey aspect of muddled backgrounds and limited contrast has been frustrating.


Keyoctave would you mind sharing the adjustments you made and the order you made them in (I'm wondering how much the order matters)? It seems like a fairly straightforward procedure, but there's been slight variation of adjustments mentioned on the threads. It sounds to me from your explanation and results that you took the right path.


Thanks to Turrican for getting others involved from your research and application months ago. This may become a prerequisite or at least part of a comprehensive calibration for these sets moving forward.
 
#40 ·
Thanks for the input guys,


I'd be interested if any of those who have done the adjustments have actually checked the panel by using even a basic calibration disc like DVE (Digital Video Essentials) or a Spears/Munsil Disc to see if a recalibration is in order.

Also has the timing of the pixel firing affected motion blur or other artifacts, which might not be obvious while being distracted by the better black levels?

Not to be critical, as I'm excited about this as most, but it appears that those who have jumped on the band-wagon, while reporting a better MLLs have not really given us any further information regarding the whole picture gauntlet in any detail.

Reason I bring this up is that IMHO the LG aside from the black levels produce one of the best and most natural color of all the current plasma displays and the reason I personally chose LG over the competition, mind you my blacks are pretty good and close to my brothers Panasonic ST30 so of course I'm curious like everyone else to see how low it can go.

So if indeed nothing else is affected by squeezing out better black levels, such as a shift in gamma, color & grey scale then I guess I should be getting my screwdriver out, that is as soon as I can get help taking the PX down off the wall.
 
#42 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox /forum/post/21208321


A valid concern. Pioneer publically has stated (through science journals) that they had the same concerns as you when developing KURO. The larger the gap between the MLL and the 1st subfield the more visible the dither. On the other hand if the MLL is too high AND too close to the 1st subfield then black crush.

Yes, I know both situations.


After the first voltagebump on my PK350 the darkest shades were consumed by the fog of "black" (what wasn't black).


After the adjusment, the dtail near black is very good to see, but the biggest weakness of LG pdp is more visible than ever: very clumpy noise patterns in the grey shades near black.


Also, the pwm noise bug is more obvious (the shades up to IRE6 don't reach the panel edges left, right and upside!).


I hope, the pwm noise bug will be addressed in the 2012 plasmas from LG.
 
#44 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21210753


After the adjusment, the dtail near black is very good to see, but the biggest weakness of LG pdp is more visible than ever: very clumpy noise patterns in the grey shades near black.


Also, the pwm noise bug is more obvious (the shades up to IRE6 don't reach the panel edges left, right and upside!).


I hope, the pwm noise bug will be addressed in the 2012 plasmas from LG.

Dropping the initialization waveform is probably increasing the discharge delay and reducing the discharge probability. This will cause address failure and unwanted pixel firing and misfiring everywhere (most probably in low level shades).


LG has produced a zero black PDP in the lab but this PDP produced too much unstable pixel behaviour.
 
#45 ·
Here are a few Blu-ray shots and the last being from a HD broadcast on my stock PX950 , not too sure how much I’ll gain with adjusting the pots.

SD and HD broadcast as well as BD look great, the only few times I felt the blacks could be better is when streaming Netflix films from the Apple TV, Podcasts and everything else look fine.

As I mentioned elsewhere the bars when viewing letter box are pretty dark and with brighter scenes and full screen the picture is about perfect.

(Shot with a Canon Powershot G10 ASA 200 f.3.8 on a tripod, no further processing involved)










HD broadcast
 
#46 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimdish255 /forum/post/21208756


.


Keyoctave would you mind sharing the adjustments you made and the order you made them in (I'm wondering how much the order matters)? It seems like a fairly straightforward procedure, but there's been slight variation of adjustments mentioned on the threads. It sounds to me from your explanation and results that you took the right path.

I first put a color bar pattern on the screen. I tweeked the Set_up clockwise as far as it would go. I then tweeked the Vy just a hair counter clockwise. I switched to a screen pattern with black background for a minuite then switched back to the color bars. It was then that I had screen artifacts (black dots in the darker colors). I backed off the Set_up (turned counter clockwise) till they dissapeared then repeated the process of switching between screens, turning the Set-up clockwise till I had the the Set_up as far as it would go without inducing any artifacts. An all white screen was fine.


What was interesting was as I turned the Set_up pot clockwise and watched the black area that surrounds the Pluge adjustment in the color bar screen is, I could see the dark area go from dark grey to more black or back to dark grey as I turned it clockwise or counter clockwise. It is subtle when up close but as you step back away from the screen, you really notice the difference.


I did not do a check with my colormeter as I am planning to upgrade in the next month. I did have to reset the brightness up some (using the Pluge adjustment) but that was it. Off hand, I did not notice any other changes to the overall color balance.
 
#47 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21210753


After the adjusment, the dtail near black is very good to see, but the biggest weakness of LG pdp is more visible than ever: very clumpy noise patterns in the grey shades near black.

I noticed them as well. At least you don't see them when you are farther away from the screen (or I don't anyway).


Thank you for sharing this tweek with us. It has made a most noticable difference and increased my viewing enjoyment!
 
#48 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21205176


0.012 cd/m2 ANSI with PK350 aka 10000:1 contrast

Is this for real, UK poster here can this be done on any LG set?

And maybe I'm misreading but surely if LG could produce decent blacks by doing this then why haven't they?

They keep getting panned for not doing so, I just don't get it
 
#49 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by leedebs /forum/post/21212083


Is this for real, UK poster here can this be done on any LG set?

And maybe I'm misreading but surely if LG could produce decent blacks by doing this then why haven't they?

They keep getting panned for not doing so, I just don't get it

Shouldn't be a problem although you're dealing with a higher (lethal) voltage before the power supply, but the DC at the Sus-Board where most of the adjustments are would be the same.

I believe Turrican has it about right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D /forum/post/21207420


0.00357 ftl



EDIT: The main reason, why LG throw so much room for good MLL away is the way, the power supply works after a cold start of the set. Depending on room temperature it takes the power supply up to two minutes to reach full throttle.


So LG goes the safe way to avoid pixel missfires after a cold start.
 
#50 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b /forum/post/21212332


Shouldn't be a problem although you're dealing with a higher (lethal) voltage before the power supply, but the DC at the Sus-Board where most of the adjustments are would be the same.

I believe Turrican has it about right.


Thanks, may give it a whirl when the sets out of warranty

Is the lowest mll obtainable with the LG pot tweak better than Panasonics though?

I mean 0.012 cd/m2 is better than a GT30 isn't it?
 
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