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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

972K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#853 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/21203759


3/4 MDF works fine, I've found that putting on a quick coat of Minwax sanding sealer, then sanding will give a better finish than just priming and painting the MDF, use a dark tinted primer.


I like your design.

BigMouthinDC,


Can I use this on the exposed bare edges of the MDF that have been cut to provide a nice cleaner edge when painted?


Otherwise, I was planning on using drywall compound for the edges.
 
#854 ·
I'm not Big, but the edge of MDF is the same as the surfaces (unlike plywood), so seems like it would work the same.
 
#855 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/21221336


I'm not Big, but the edge of MDF is the same as the surfaces (unlike plywood), so seems like it would work the same.

Thanks Brad.



BTW. Home Depot is now carrying 4 inch CREE LED's.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053


Very expensive, but only use 9.5 watts and the dim all the way down. The color is perfect as well at 2700k. But if I can work the Energy rebate and 10% off via Discover Card, it becomes tolerable. Since I would still need to buy trim rings.


Only downside is the CREE's are all white. I picked one up to just to inspect it further. The plastic lens snaps out easily. So if you cover the LED lights you could theoretically spray paint the trim any color you like.
 
#856 ·
The edges of MDF will pick up the sanding sealer like a wick, I've had good luck using three coats. The second can go on by the time you finish the first. Then sand, then putty up with Elmer's wood filler, then sand. repeat as necessary, then prime and paint.


On the Jig saw, I gave up on the cheap ones and bought the Bosch 1590. You will love it. I only wish the blower was a little bit stronger but not a deal killer.
 
#857 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/21221336


I'm not Big, but the edge of MDF is the same as the surfaces (unlike plywood), so seems like it would work the same.

Must respectfully disagree. At least for the MDF around here (west coast), the interior is much different, is softer and significantly more absorbent.


I've successfully used a thinned version of drywall compound, as you have apparently been planning to do, Mario. Paint or roll it on generously, let dry overnight, and then it sands up nicely and easily the next day. Be sure to ease the edge first if you're going to do that (e.g. chamfer or roundover).


HTH,

Bryan
 
#859 ·
Went back and cleaned up my cuts using the Bosch. What a difference!


Thanks for the info on the sanding sealer and process. I'll be giving it a go soon. The edges do look like they will absorb like a sponge.


BigmouthinDC,

Have you tried the thinned drywall compound method? Just curious if one is better/easier than the other. How 'bout you Bryan? Any experience with both methods?


TheaterChad,

Thanks for chiming in. Moral support is always welcome.




Just thought I'd post some plans for the column in case it benefits anyone down the road.
 
#860 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21208718


I thought I'd take a stab at the columns. Was going fairly well except my jig saw couldn't seem to cut a straight line while cutting out the speaker areas. The blade seemed to have a mind of it's own.

For cutting out sections as large as you show in the picture, I would suggest using a circular saw instead of a jig saw. Much easier to get straight lines, and you can plunge it in. Cut close to the corners and finish up the corners with the jigsaw. I seem to remember seeing a video of this on a woodworking site somewhere.
 
#861 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty /forum/post/21228789


For cutting out sections as large as you show in the picture, I would suggest using a circular saw instead of a jig saw. Much easier to get straight lines, and you can plunge it in. Cut close to the corners and finish up the corners with the jigsaw. I seem to remember seeing a video of this on a woodworking site somewhere.

I might give that another shot. My confidence with the circular saw just isn't as high as the jig saw.



I finally got the moulding up on the bar. I decided to save some money on labor and attempt to do it myself and put that savings towards some new tools. I bought a Porter Cable brad nailer (combo kit with compressor). First time ever using one. I felt empowered.
I figured I could attempt to do the moulding in the theater myself...so the finish nailer will more than pay for itself.





 
#862 ·
Mario


Do you have any pictures behind the bar as well as construction specs?
 
#866 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 /forum/post/21231186


The white frame with display in it, your home automation control panel?

Yup. After so long I have it go to this page which provides some basic information including Climate for that area, Security status, Voice Mail, Outside Temp and Time/Date.



Also provides a jukebox to visitors:



Driveway sensors trigger a jump to our security camera's page as well and archives a snapshot. Can't imagine living without it!
 
#867 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21231167


Larry,


Here are some more shots of the bar area:











Thank You Mario, that is perfect


I got a little sticker shock when I went to the lumber yard and talked to the kitchen sales rep about a bar for my basement (picture below) and she quoted $3K to $10K





The dimensions are 34" (135* angle) 59" far wall (135* angle) 34"



When I asked for the rough quote, it was based on the trapezoid in the back and wrapping forward and around (sort of like a U shape)
 
#868 ·
Ok, I officially had to bump my other thread favorite's I've had here at AVS ( sorry guy's
), with a theater and party room basement like you have here, talk about totally Awesome! This is exactly why I'm currently designing my new house to build in the next few years, or to buy one with a similar layout for all the games, and bar, and anything else for a fun room.


If I could ask, where did you get your bar stools? I'm looking for those exact same ones or very close to those for my bar build, many thanks!

Awesome thread!
 
#869 ·
Hi Larry,


You might want to see if they can dial in the price range a bit. That's pretty broad. Cabinets are not cheap and if you need moulding to match the specific color like I did, that gets expensive too. Anything with curves, arches or angles seems to add to the cost.


Thanks TheaterChad.

I did spend quite a bit of time planning around all the gaming tables. Especially the shuffle board. It pays though to plan it ahead of time rather than jamming everything in. I was able to move walls to fit everything in and still have space to gather and walk.


I bought the stools online:
http://www.barstools.com/bar-height-...elbarstool.cfm


Buy one initially. Then they send you a coupon code for your next order.
 
#870 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21227980


How 'bout you Bryan? Any experience with both methods?

Mario, I haven't tried sanding sealer, so that may work fine, but I vastly prefer the drywall compound over something like shellac (which, like the sanding sealer, also takes several coats).


I'm not sure how you're planning to manufacture those columns, but I think the best way would really be to miter the corners, so that you end up with the outside surface extending all the way to the corner on all both surfaces. That, however, would require a table saw, and probably a high-quality one at that (ripping something that long at 45 degrees for a perfect fit isn't trivial). If you have a buddy with a workshop, that would probably be best, *but* I'm also confident that you can get good results with the drywall compound, provided that your basic cuts are clean and straight.


Good luck! Wish we were closer so I could lend a hand on the woodworking...


Bryan
 
#871 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21232497


Hi Larry,


You might want to see if they can dial in the price range a bit. That's pretty broad. Cabinets are not cheap and if you need moulding to match the specific color like I did, that gets expensive too. Anything with curves, arches or angles seems to add to the cost.


Thanks TheaterChad.

I did spend quite a bit of time planning around all the gaming tables. Especially the shuffle board. It pays though to plan it ahead of time rather than jamming everything in. I was able to move walls to fit everything in and still have space to gather and walk.


I bought the stools online:
http://www.barstools.com/bar-height-...elbarstool.cfm


Buy one initially. Then they send you a coupon code for your next order.

Excellent, Thanks for the link, that's much more affordable than what I found anywhere near me, thanks a million!!
 
#872 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheaterChad /forum/post/21233006


Excellent, Thanks for the link, that's much more affordable than what I found anywhere near me, thanks a million!!

I have some that are very similar to these too, purchased from Target on line. Really cheap price, decent quality for the price.
 
#874 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21232497


Hi Larry,


You might want to see if they can dial in the price range a bit. That's pretty broad. Cabinets are not cheap and if you need moulding to match the specific color like I did, that gets expensive too. Anything with curves, arches or angles seems to add to the cost.


Thanks TheaterChad.

I did spend quite a bit of time planning around all the gaming tables. Especially the shuffle board. It pays though to plan it ahead of time rather than jamming everything in. I was able to move walls to fit everything in and still have space to gather and walk.


I bought the stools online:
http://www.barstools.com/bar-height-...elbarstool.cfm


Buy one initially. Then they send you a coupon code for your next order.

Yeah she was just ballparking. I asked them to come up with some designs but they wanted $250 up front and I wasn't ready to do that yet.


I was there purchasing under cabinet molding for my kithcen and it cost me $200 for 32 ft at contractor prices



The under cabinet molding turned out great by the way, took me a few hours but I like perfect cuts
 
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