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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#877 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger /forum/post/21232754


Mario, I haven't tried sanding sealer, so that may work fine, but I vastly prefer the drywall compound over something like shellac (which, like the sanding sealer, also takes several coats).


I'm not sure how you're planning to manufacture those columns, but I think the best way would really be to miter the corners, so that you end up with the outside surface extending all the way to the corner on all both surfaces. That, however, would require a table saw, and probably a high-quality one at that (ripping something that long at 45 degrees for a perfect fit isn't trivial). If you have a buddy with a workshop, that would probably be best, *but* I'm also confident that you can get good results with the drywall compound, provided that your basic cuts are clean and straight.


Good luck! Wish we were closer so I could lend a hand on the woodworking...


Bryan

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't cut the corners at 45's. May be beyond my personal scope.
But I'm still developing my prototype column. I'll check with my father-in-law and see what he thinks about the drywall compound vs. sanding sealer. Yeah - would be great to have someone with some knowledge like yourself on-site!


Larry,

When I was doing my bar, I didn't really get much input from all the places I stopped by. I couldn't really find anyone locally to do it either. So I pretty much ended up doing all the design ideas myself and then ordering the cabinetry from Home Depot. The cabinet doors worked great as paneling for the front of the bar.
 
#878 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JTR7 /forum/post/21234669


I must say, I love your Cinemar interface. Is that custom for you or is it included or an available for purchase skin with MainLobby?

Thanks JTR7. The last two screenshots I posted are included with the current MainLobby 3. I may have posted some screens from Version 4 in the past that haven't been released yet. But will be shortly. Those will be included with MainLobby 4 and won't require the purchase of a separate GuiGraphix Library.
 
#879 ·
I tackled more of the columns today. Gave the Kreg jig a try as well. I wasn't really sure how many places I should screw the sides to the front. I think I ended up using about 7 or 8 per side. Applied and finish nailed some of the larger speaker mouldings and pre-cut the moulding for the bottom of the front column. I'll need to order some black GOM fabric before I can permanently mount the remaining mouldings. You'll notice a white inside frame. That's MDF that I used to attach the mouldings to and provide some additional support. I may also need to paint some of the mouldings before I completely finish nail them to the column since it's be adjoining the GOM fabric.







 
#881 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21238534


Larry,

When I was doing my bar, I didn't really get much input from all the places I stopped by. I couldn't really find anyone locally to do it either. So I pretty much ended up doing all the design ideas myself and then ordering the cabinetry from Home Depot. The cabinet doors worked great as paneling for the front of the bar.

Home Depot you say
This isn't their stock cabinet line is it?


My main issue with the bar is the location with the trapezoid opening, I have googled for hours looking for a similiar setup and nothing


Perhaps I'll stop by Home Depot and see if they have any ideas
 
#883 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21239048


Home Depot you say
This isn't their stock cabinet line is it?


My main issue with the bar is the location with the trapezoid opening, I have googled for hours looking for a similiar setup and nothing


Perhaps I'll stop by Home Depot and see if they have any ideas

Hey Larry. They are Kraftmaid cabinets. Special order. A lot of the other "more expensive" places we went to were also carrying Kraftmaid and I had heard good things about them. Plus I didn't want to spend a ton on bar cabinetry.


I haven't seen your bar plan, but if you are trying to fit cabinetry into that angled area, why not use standard cabinets with 45's on each end and then cut the counter to fit the shape. Then use fillers as needed.
 
#884 ·
Wow, your project is really looking great. The bar turned out classy and I love the shuffle board. I really wanted to add one to our basement but just couldn't figure out a good place for it. Looking forward to future updates.
 
#885 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch /forum/post/21238778


That's a clever way of creating the relief on the columns, those will look great when they are done. Nice job.

I agree. I was wondering how you were going to take the columns from the renders and turn them into reality. Mystery solved!


My vote for the MDF edge concealment is to use sealant, generous amounts of wood filler, then palm sander. I've used that method and also the drywall compound. The latter is quicker initially, but may (in my case -- did) develop cracks down the line.
 
#886 ·
#887 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21239539


Hey Larry. They are Kraftmaid cabinets. Special order. A lot of the other "more expensive" places we went to were also carrying Kraftmaid and I had heard good things about them. Plus I didn't want to spend a ton on bar cabinetry.


I haven't seen your bar plan, but if you are trying to fit cabinetry into that angled area, why not use standard cabinets with 45's on each end and then cut the counter to fit the shape. Then use fillers as needed.

Thats basically what I was thinking but hoping a cabinet designer or someone can show me an example so I can get a more clear idea. I laid masking tape down to get an idea
 
#888 ·
How are you attaching the fabric in the columns?


Any more details on the trim you used? Interested in the back profile
 
#889 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by roknrol /forum/post/21241572


I agree. I was wondering how you were going to take the columns from the renders and turn them into reality. Mystery solved!


My vote for the MDF edge concealment is to use sealant, generous amounts of wood filler, then palm sander. I've used that method and also the drywall compound. The latter is quicker initially, but may (in my case -- did) develop cracks down the line.

Good point. How thick was your drywall compound? For what I was advising, it ends up being absorbed into the MDF; there's nothing to crack. Again, it depends on how close to perfect the original cuts are. If they are way off and he's filling more than maybe 1/64th", I'd be concerned that many fillers could crack, including drywall compound.


Mario, do you have a router? If so, you could use that to flush trim the front so that it's exactly matched to the sides. Might be an easy way to ensure that any filler ends up at zero thickness.


Bryan
 
#890 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21243581


How are you attaching the fabric in the columns?


Any more details on the trim you used? Interested in the back profile

Hi Larry,


Here's a diagram showing the moulding I'm going with.




I'm still on the fence about how to tackle attaching the fabric. Especially on the sides. I'm open to recommendations.


For the sides, I was thinking of just using hot glue or contact cement to attach it to the MDF. I'm thinking stapes may fray the edge of the MDF since I only have about 1/2" of contact with the mdf to fabric.


Here's an illustration. The moulding is 3/4" and I'll finish nail it over the top of the fabric and then into the mdf.



For the lower front of the column, I have a lot more room to staple or glue the fabric. The top half grill needs to be removable. I'm planning to use a plastic speaker frame from parts-express.


I ordered the Black GOM so I'll be getting to that phase soon.


I cut all the mouldings for the first column. I became more and more efficient. I started using a finished cut moulding piece as a template to mark the next piece for cutting. The trick was to place them back to back on the floor and then use a sharp pencil to trace the cut line. This narrowed by cuts down to about two or three per moulding per side. Much easier than using the measuring tape. Then to shave off a hair, I would lower the mitre saw blade down and push the moulding against the blade. Then lift the blade up and make the cut. The teeth are a little larger, so it just shaved a smidge off the end moving me closer and closer to my finished cut. These are probably all stuff the pro's know, but being my first time. I'm learning as I go.
 
#891 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger /forum/post/21244034


Good point. How thick was your drywall compound? For what I was advising, it ends up being absorbed into the MDF; there's nothing to crack. Again, it depends on how close to perfect the original cuts are. If they are way off and he's filling more than maybe 1/64th", I'd be concerned that many fillers could crack, including drywall compound.


Mario, do you have a router? If so, you could use that to flush trim the front so that it's exactly matched to the sides. Might be an easy way to ensure that any filler ends up at zero thickness.


Bryan

Bryan,


I can definitely say that the edges are not perfect. And even with the Kreg jig, as I tightened the screws it pushed the edges a bit over their mark as I joined the pieces together. I think I'll need to clamp the MDF together next time before joing them to keep them from moving off their square. I think the hairline edge can be sanded though.


I do have a router. What type of bit are you suggesting using? The edges that I cut for the first column look pretty smooth.


Everything's going black, so I'm hoping shadows and just the overall room will hide some of the imperfections.
 
#892 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21244219


I do have a router. What type of bit are you suggesting using? The edges that I cut for the first column look pretty smooth.


Everything's going black, so I'm hoping shadows and just the overall room will hide some of the imperfections.

Awesome. My advice would be to get a bit like this:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...20router%20bit


Make your face frame about 1/8" too wide, attach the sides as straight as you can, with about 1/16" of overhang on each side, then trim it flush with that bit. Should yield perfect results every time.


Bryan
 
#893 ·
While building speaker cabinets I do exactly what is listed above with the fluch bit. Cut the pieces about 1/8 inch too big, then use the Kreg to join them with a slight overhang and use the flush bit to trim. Makes a perfect seam every time.


I wouldn't use wood filler or dryuwall compound on the MDF or seams. It will crack. If it's possilbe to construct these columns in a well ventilated area I sugguest using Bondo. It smells horrible (think of the glue used in model cars when you were growing up) but it will seal well and when sanded will give you a SMOOTH surface. I used bondo on my curves speaker cabinets. Here is a picture of the before and after. You can see how rough the before was, and how smooth the bondo is sanded and painted.



 
#894 ·
Larry,


You can also special order cabinets at Menard's. They will design your space for free but it does require time and thought. I must have changed our plan at least 10 times
You might also want to stop by Menard's / Home Depot and grab a cabinet catalog to see what sort of cabinets, styles, hardware, and trim you're interested in. There are a ton of choices.


The extra's from mouldings to trim to real 3/4" cabinet construction can get expensive but not as much as custom cabinets. We ended up getting all of our cherry cabinets at Menard's at 20% off. I also ordered a couple of quarts of matching stain and ended up staining much of the trim and wainscoting around the bar and saved a ton of money that way.


All of this is detailed in the link below.
 
#895 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by deewan /forum/post/21244409


While building speaker cabinets I do exactly what is listed above with the fluch bit. Cut the pieces about 1/8 inch too big, then use the Kreg to join them with a slight overhang and use the flush bit to trim. Makes a perfect seam every time.


I wouldn't use wood filler or dryuwall compound on the MDF or seams. It will crack. If it's possilbe to construct these columns in a well ventilated area I sugguest using Bondo. It smells horrible (think of the glue used in model cars when you were growing up) but it will seal well and when sanded will give you a SMOOTH surface. I used bondo on my curves speaker cabinets. Here is a picture of the before and after. You can see how rough the before was, and how smooth the bondo is sanded and painted.




Looks cool. How easy is it to work with bondo?

Would I need to bondo the entire column or just the corners?


One thing to that's in the back of my mind is that I'm not necessarily trying to make it look like the corner doesn't exist, but rather create a smooth matching finish on the cut edge so it's paintable. I want it to look like painted wood (but without the grain). If I look at my expensive kitchen cabinets, you can see where the wood panels were seamed together. But the edges are nice and flush.


I'm not necessarily looking to make it look like the columns were drywalled and there are no seams.
 
#897 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21245537


Looks cool. How easy is it to work with bondo?

Would I need to bondo the entire column or just the corners?


One thing to that's in the back of my mind is that I'm not necessarily trying to make it look like the corner doesn't exist, but rather create a smooth matching finish on the cut edge so it's paintable. I want it to look like painted wood (but without the grain). If I look at my expensive kitchen cabinets, you can see where the wood panels were seamed together. But the edges are nice and flush.


I'm not necessarily looking to make it look like the columns were drywalled and there are no seams.

Bondo is fairly easy to work with. Must like Drywall compound, only you have to mix the material with a hardener and it dries solid within minutes (depending how much hardener you use). Sometimes it's 3-4 minutes, sometimes 10. It won't work well if you are trying to keep the seams of the wood and just seal the end cut MDF. It's more if you don't want to see seams. I would maybe suggest using something like pine instead. Keeps the seam, won't have to seal the end cut after sanding. Just my two cents.
 
#898 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21244096


Hi Larry,


Here's a diagram showing the moulding I'm going with.




I'm still on the fence about how to tackle attaching the fabric. Especially on the sides. I'm open to recommendations.


For the sides, I was thinking of just using hot glue or contact cement to attach it to the MDF. I'm thinking stapes may fray the edge of the MDF since I only have about 1/2" of contact with the mdf to fabric.


Here's an illustration. The moulding is 3/4" and I'll finish nail it over the top of the fabric and then into the mdf.



For the lower front of the column, I have a lot more room to staple or glue the fabric. The top half grill needs to be removable. I'm planning to use a plastic speaker frame from parts-express.


I ordered the Black GOM so I'll be getting to that phase soon.


I cut all the mouldings for the first column. I became more and more efficient. I started using a finished cut moulding piece as a template to mark the next piece for cutting. The trick was to place them back to back on the floor and then use a sharp pencil to trace the cut line. This narrowed by cuts down to about two or three per moulding per side. Much easier than using the measuring tape. Then to shave off a hair, I would lower the mitre saw blade down and push the moulding against the blade. Then lift the blade up and make the cut. The teeth are a little larger, so it just shaved a smidge off the end moving me closer and closer to my finished cut. These are probably all stuff the pro's know, but being my first time. I'm learning as I go.

Nice selection of trim, may I suggest a fancier base? You have a lot of curves in all your trim, but the base looks relatively flat.


By the way, absolutey incredible job with the diagrams...jeez I ask for the molding profile and I basically get the CAD version...pure excellence
 
#899 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21245542


Any tips/tricks for cutting the GOM and working with the large roll? It seems like it'd be challenging to get nice straight cuts with scissors.

I measured the length that I needed, unrolled the length onto the floor in another room, then used a level on top of the GOM, and cut beside the level using it as a guide.


It worked really well and I didn't have any errant cuts.


Good luck!
 
#900 ·
Guys.


Thanks for all the great advice. My father-in-law seems comfortable with the bondo. So I think we'll try that on the edges. Then use sanding sealer on the entire unit along with sanding.


Larry,

I actually intended on going a bit fancier with the trim. But I had quite a bit left over from the basement that I decided to use that instead of just throwing it away. Otherwise, I would have gone with a slightly taller base and more decorative.
 
#901 ·
I haven't gotten into the theater tonight. But here's some progress from last night.


I built a speaker frame out of a speaker frame kit from Parts-Express. I removed the nubs on the back that fit into the female socket fittings. The sockets seemed like it was going to be challenging to get the grills in and out. So instead I'm using magnets to attach the frame.


The frame certainly took some time and I have to believe there's a faster way. Was thinking of a metal bar on the top wrapped in the GOM and then another metal bar to add some weight to the bottom. Then magnets would hold the material taught vertically both at the top and bottom. My concern with this method is the edges may not always look taught over time unless they are attached to something and could possibly get snagged or frayed over time.


Any one else try the gravity method with magnets.


Overall the parts-express kit was easy to work with. I initially made some cuts with a hacksaw, but then just used a table saw for more precise straight cuts. The frame was hot glued together and then the material applied using hot glue. You really just need to take your time with the hot glue and keep pulling the material so it has a smooth edge. I started with the corners. Going from one diagnol to the other and then working towards the middle.


One thing I'll be doing with the next frame is adding the provided supports that the kit comes with in the middle. I can see a bit of bowing in the frame. It was most likely from me pulling the GOM to tight on the plastic frame. So next one, I'll be a little less agressive. I'll probably slip a small piece of black velcro on the bottom of the speaker frame against the fabric so I can pull the frame off the column easily.


Right now, I have screws attached into the back of the speaker frame that line up with the magnets in the female socket fittings within the column. I think I'll switch that around and put the screw in magnets on the frame and just a piece of metal in the column. Requires less presicion and lining up screw to magnet.











 
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