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You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti

669K views 2K replies 405 participants last post by  WegamaniacHD 
#1 ·
I saw some others with the problem..set comes on for a sec. then goes into a protection mode...the light on mine blinks 3 times...


When it first happened I took the back off and (WOW, lol) very dirty, cleaned it out thinking that was the problem...And when I plugged it back in and turned it on it came right on? But, next day same problem. This time I just unplugged it for a few minutes and it came on (keep in mind though, the first time this happened I had tried that, unplugging it..with NO success then).


I guess I am asking if anyone else found out something, like what is the problem???


Thank You for any info.

PS: I have had this TV for about 5 years now and love it. I would hate for this to be a unfixable or cost more then its worth to fix.





I decided to have the name of the thread changed so people can post and read about these kinds of problems with these TVs


I just think we needed a thread for this, as I have read here and other forums of these problems, but they are spread all over the place....

Please feel free to post here with your problem, fix, or answer to another users problem
But please, DO NOT POST HERE your complaint, preference of brand or model, or anything other then what relates to the thread title!!! Thank You



As an added point I like to make.............

Please if anyone has any info on any problem fixes from the standby light blinks (2,3,4,5, etc.. blinks), feel free to add it in this tread.......................


Thank You, have a good day
and good luck with your Sony
 
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#1,607 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott91370 /forum/post/21187487


I am looking for the part you replaced but am having no luck with TDA6120Q/N2/S1. If I just put in TDA6120Q I find them by RCA, Mitsu and some without other names. Where did you find yours?

The part is a Philips IC. I ordered it from B & D Enterprises ( www.bdent.com ) for $10.59 (US), with a few other items. You may also want to order thermal compound (item no. NTE303), but I just reused the stuff that was on the old IC and heat sink. Delivery was less than a week.

Quote:
You didn't by chance take any pics of this, did you? I have the service manual, but first hand pics are always a good thing.

I was able to bang on the back of the set and it came on.


Thanks for linking to this- I guess I'll be trying another solder job.

Sorry, no pictures. On my KV-34XBR800 it is IC9001 on the CX board, which is the board that connects to the neck of the tube. Check the schematic and parts list in your service manual to make sure it is the correct part.


You may also want to try tapping the tube neck (gently!) with a screwdriver handle. Apparently there are multiple potential causes for the red screen, and what worked for my set may not work for yours.


Good luck on your repair!
 
#1,608 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snevig /forum/post/21187944


The part is a Philips IC. I ordered it from B & D Enterprises ( www.bdent.com ) for $10.59 (US), with a few other items. You may also want to order thermal compound (item no. NTE303), but I just reused the stuff that was on the old IC and heat sink. Delivery was less than a week.




Sorry, no pictures. On my KV-34XBR800 it is IC9001 on the CX board, which is the board that connects to the neck of the tube. Check the schematic and parts list in your service manual to make sure it is the correct part.


You may also want to try tapping the tube neck (gently!) with a screwdriver handle. Apparently there are multiple potential causes for the red screen, and what worked for my set may not work for yours.


Good luck on your repair!


Tapping the back of the TV with the case still on brought it back to life for a few days. This afternoon it happened again so I tapped (read: beat) on the back of the TV but it only stayed on for a few seconds.

I did look at the schematic for my set and it is the same part number so I guess while I am waiting for it to arrive ($15 minimum order for anybody else that is loking) I will be looking for a decent replacement set, just in case.


Thanks for the reply!
 
#1,610 ·
In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Currently not working due to the factory reset are Video 4 and Video 7, so I can not view my DVD or use the HighDef Mode. Looking for someone who can provide me with a list of their settings as a guide. Thank you.
 
#1,611 ·
I feel bad for possibly bringing up what's already been delt with, but I'm having a hard time searching for what I need.

I have a Sony KV-34HS510 that I had die before and give me six or seven blinks of the standby light, which I seemed to fix by replacing the two IC chips on the D-board. My soldering looked top notch, it flowed well and I even had it confirmed by someone that works with electronics on a regular basis, I did indeed do well.

But on the second time powering up I noticed these jagged black lines jutting into the picture from either side of the screen, randomly, around three or four at a time, jumping in and out of the picture. This problem cleared up for a while, but no more than fifteen minutes later they reappeared and about five minutes later they reappeared in force and began taking over the screen until the picture suddenly lost all of it's horizontal width and became a slender white line down the middle of the TV, then suddenly that too vanished and the TV started flashing the standby light four times again and again.

I didn't notice it but I was told there was a flash in the proximity of the D-board and a crack when this happened. I haven't opened it back up yet, I'm letting everything discharge for a good while before I even think of working on it, but that's all I have to work on. Could anyone help me figure out just what's wrong and what happened there? Fixing the TV was the pinnacle of my day and this turn of events has turned the whole day into one of the worst in recent memory
I'd be grateful for any and all help, I tried searching but all I kept getting were random "four"s and "4"s that had nothing to do with the blinking.
 
#1,612 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedD85 /forum/post/21232510


I feel bad for possibly bringing up what's already been delt with, but I'm having a hard time searching for what I need.

I have a Sony KV-34HS510 that I had die before and give me six or seven blinks of the standby light, which I seemed to fix by replacing the two IC chips on the D-board. My soldering looked top notch, it flowed well and I even had it confirmed by someone that works with electronics on a regular basis, I did indeed do well.

But on the second time powering up I noticed these jagged black lines jutting into the picture from either side of the screen, randomly, around three or four at a time, jumping in and out of the picture. This problem cleared up for a while, but no more than fifteen minutes later they reappeared and about five minutes later they reappeared in force and began taking over the screen until the picture suddenly lost all of it's horizontal width and became a slender white line down the middle of the TV, then suddenly that too vanished and the TV started flashing the standby light four times again and again.

I didn't notice it but I was told there was a flash in the proximity of the D-board and a crack when this happened. I haven't opened it back up yet, I'm letting everything discharge for a good while before I even think of working on it, but that's all I have to work on. Could anyone help me figure out just what's wrong and what happened there? Fixing the TV was the pinnacle of my day and this turn of events has turned the whole day into one of the worst in recent memory
I'd be grateful for any and all help, I tried searching but all I kept getting were random "four"s and "4"s that had nothing to do with the blinking.
Might not be the D Board Chips

The chips control the power on after clearing voltage sensing. In your case you had power with the jagged lines before the TV stopped working. Maybe something else got bumped during the repair? The flash does not sound good, some clarity on this? Once you pop the cover, check all the connections and see if any capacitor is swelled up.
 
#1,613 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER /forum/post/21232671

Might not be the D Board Chips

The chips control the power on after clearing voltage sensing. In your case you had power with the jagged lines before the TV stopped working. Maybe something else got bumped during the repair? The flash does not sound good, some clarity on this? Once you pop the cover, check all the connections and see if any capacitor is swelled up.

I'll take a look in a couple days when I can, this was the last moment I had to do it today, that and I'm really fearful of getting the life shocked out of me by this thing. The one who saw it said it looked like arcing, everything looked settled when I put it back in, the only thing that might've been knocked around would've been the lines going to and from the coil/transformer thing on the D-board since I had to twist around the board to get to the bottom of it. But I tried to be careful and I'm sure I plugged everything back in, I really hope nothing else went bad, especially a capacitor. If it is am I going to just replace it or do I have to go for the entire board? Or is the TV toast then? I'm trying so hard to think back and make sure I got everything.
 
#1,614 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedD85 /forum/post/21232767


I'll take a look in a couple days when I can, this was the last moment I had to do it today, that and I'm really fearful of getting the life shocked out of me by this thing. The one who saw it said it looked like arcing, everything looked settled when I put it back in, the only thing that might've been knocked around would've been the lines going to and from the coil/transformer thing on the D-board since I had to twist around the board to get to the bottom of it. But I tried to be careful and I'm sure I plugged everything back in, I really hope nothing else went bad, especially a capacitor. If it is am I going to just replace it or do I have to go for the entire board? Or is the TV toast then? I'm trying so hard to think back and make sure I got everything.

Capacitors are inexpensive and very easy to replace, only two solder points. But wait and see, maybe post a pic of the board and a closeup of the solder job when you take it apart.
 
#1,615 ·
I haven't been able to move the TV to check on it yet, I need a second pair of hands, but I did want to revise my statement. I just misheard what they said, they said they didn't see any flash at any time, although they said they heard what sounded like arcing when the TV did it's thing and died.
 
#1,616 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedD85 /forum/post/21236745


I haven't been able to move the TV to check on it yet, I need a second pair of hands, but I did want to revise my statement. I just misheard what they said, they said they didn't see any flash at any time, although they said they heard what sounded like arcing when the TV did it's thing and died.

That could just be normal, the Degauss does pop when you first turn on the CRT. Please post the pics once you pull the cover off.
 
#1,617 ·
I have the kv-40xbr800 and got the 7 blink last week after 8 years of daily use. Replaced IC8002 and installed an ic socket just in case it fails in the future. I purchased 2 extra ICs and sockets for future use.


I used the blue solder sucker and an adjustable soldering iron. I think most are having issues because they are using a pen that is not getting hot enough which requires you to keep it there longer. I set mine to 550d to remove IC and 500d to solder new IC socket. I would only keep it there for only 1 sec which was enough to melt solder. If I needed to reheat I would wait or move to next one and come back to that point after it cooled as not wanting to take a chance. Also if using the solder sucker you do not need to have it right above what you are trying to remove. I found it more effective and quick to have sucker at a 45d angle right on the board plus on top to the joint and with your other hand apply heat, press to suck. You need to do this quick. It only took me 2 mins to remove all the solder and IC chip without the need of desoldering braid and another 2 min to put new IC.


I big thanks to everyone as I love this TV and very happy I could save it.
 
#1,618 ·
Just a Bump. In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Currently not working due to the factory reset are Video 4 and Video 7, so I can not view my DVD or use the HighDef Mode. Looking for someone who can provide me with a list of their settings as a guide. On Video 7, which is HighDef, we have sound, but a black sreen. Thank you.
 
#1,619 ·
I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?
 
#1,620 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by eye_candy /forum/post/21277685


I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?

Mine is still holding out, repaired in July. I recommend getting sockets just in case you ever have to do the repair a second time.

Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Twenty Dollar Repair Guide
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567
 
#1,621 ·
I just ordered (2) MCZ3001DB chips and (4) 18-pin IC sockets (2 extra just in case, they were so cheap) total cost $27.18


Any other advise or tools i need other than a soldering iron? Do i NEED a chip puller?

Do i have to Flip the Tv on its face to do this job? Or just let the back end hang off the stand and do the work from underneath?


Thanks!
 
#1,622 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by eye_candy /forum/post/21280821


I just ordered (2) MCZ3001DB chips and (4) 18-pin IC sockets (2 extra just in case, they were so cheap) total cost $27.18


Any other advise or tools i need other than a soldering iron? Do i NEED a chip puller?

Do i have to Flip the Tv on its face to do this job? Or just let the back end hang off the stand and do the work from underneath?


Thanks!
READ THE OLDER POSTS

I posted a link to my Guide in my previous Reply. Its right before yours, at the bottom of the previous page.
 
#1,623 ·
Wow! I didn't know this was such a big issue with this Lovely CRT. I own a KV34HS420 and I wish I saw this thread earlier. I'm also getting the blinking red lights. As many have posted you hear the sound, no picture and then it clicks off. Got this baby in 04 and I figured she had served me well so 3 days ago I went to BestBuy and bought a Samsung[UN46D6420U] LCD/LED 3D set. I didn't know I could go in and replace the board like that. Being in the IT field I know my way around components.

Well I guess that's it and the BestBuy delivery guys are going to take it away today later this morning free of charge. Hope everyone else hangs in there and get your sets fixed. One of the best sets ever made and will surely be missed.
 
#1,624 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregJG /forum/post/21293459


Wow! I didn't know this was such a big issue with this Lovely CRT. I own a KV34HS420 and I wish I saw this thread earlier. I'm also getting the blinking red lights. As many have posted you hear the sound, no picture and then it clicks off. Got this baby in 04 and I figured she had served me well so 3 days ago I went to BestBuy and bought a Samsung[UN46D6420U] LCD/LED 3D set. I didn't know I could go in and replace the board like that. Being in the IT field I know my way around components.

Well I guess that's it and the BestBuy delivery guys are going to take it away today later this morning free of charge. Hope everyone else hangs in there and get your sets fixed. One of the best sets ever made and will surely be missed.
A good CRT is the brightest pic with no lag

My condolences, you really should have attempted the repair, especially with your background knowledge. There are first timers here at soldering that have successfully repaired theirs. A shame you let a good TV go to the dump like that.

THE PARTS ARE LESS THEN TWENTY DOLLARS!

.
 
#1,625 ·
Any help would be greatly appreciated. In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Examples are provided below:


As examples, you have the following choices to pick from:


Category Name: 2170P_1 Column Selection Headings:


CV/YC 480i 480p 720p 1080i VGA 1080i 1080i MS


Category Name: 2170P_3 Column Selection Headings:


Comp Comp Comp Comp DVI DVI DVI DVI DVI MS MS

RF CV/YC 480i 480p 1080i 720p 480i 480p VGA 1080i 720p Menu Single Twin


Which should I be using for this TV?


On the two above category names listed above, the initial values are almost all the same, but for other categories, it appears to make a big difference. Does anyone have a cheat sheet for what each Category Name is for?


Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
#1,626 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by eye_candy /forum/post/21277685


I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?

Mine lasted a year and a half and started up with the 6 blinks again. I have been using the hair dryer for the last 6 months and it always stayed on until last week it went off and couldn't get it back on. I am going to replace the 2 electrolytics and 2 resistors along with the 2 IC's as recommended by Tri State Module this time. Does anyone know which 2 resistors they are as I see more than 2 of the .1 ohm resistors in my set in that area.
 
#1,627 ·
I am trying to repair my Sony 40XBR800. I started out with the 6 and 7 blink issue. I installed sockets and inserted new MCZ3001DB chips into both IC6501 and IC8002.


I now get 3 blinks. I have checked and double checked the connections. The old chips also give the 3 blinks now instead of the six or seven as before. I have also tried mixing the chips thinking that perhaps one was defective, but without success.


I removed the chips from the sockets and checked all the conncetions with an ohm meter. The pins with bridges show 0 ohms between the connection and the bridge end point. I also measured the resistance between each adjacent pin and did have two that measured 10kOhm? Even after carefully resoldering the joint, it still measured the same.


Not sure what to make of it and was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Help is much appreciated!
 
#1,628 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by trc5561 /forum/post/20762175


Thanks to all the great info on this thread got by 34xbr800 back in service last night. Ordered the new chips and went to Radio Shack for the rest of the repair gear...probably 30 bucks for the solder gear and sockets...and 20 for the ICs (bought 4 in case I have to do this again). I did the repair with the board in place and the TV on its face on its stand...resting on several folded blankets. The de-soldering iron from radio shack was very simple to use and sucked the old solder out like a champ...no need for a wick. surprisingly soldering in the vertical was no problem. (if people are new to soldering like I was...there are several videos on youtube that are great teaching aides).


I did encounter one problem...when I initially installed everything and tried the tv I got the dreaded 3 blinks from the standby light
. I re-soldered all the connections thinking I had some bad solders and tested again with the same result. After reading this thread further I noticed many folks advocating pre-installing the chips in the sockets. I had a chip installer but was still apparently missing the correct connection in the sockets. I removed the speaker assembly on that side (only one screw) and got a better angle on it and after a couple tries finally got the ICs properly seated. Amazingly the set turned right on
!


Thanks again for all the great advice from everyone and saving my investment!

Here is someone else with 3 blinks after replacing the IC's.
 
#1,629 ·
yes my wega had 6 blinks replaced chips

and it worked for about 2 years

the began blinking again


as I used sockets

I swaped the chips spots

and it worked a few more weeks

THEN WENT TO 3 BLINK MODE

HEATING THE AREA OF THE CHIPS ALLOWED THE TV TO WORK

so I just leave it on now


anyway try the hair dryer trick

and also retry your solder connections
 
#1,630 ·
I had previously checked (several times using a volt meter) all of the connections with the sockets I had installed.


After your comments, I removed the sockets (I am getting desperate) and soldered the chips directly trying to illuminate a possible connection problem, still 3 blinks. I then tried the blow dryer trick but with no luck either.


I have ordered an IC6505 (SE140N) which is to arrive in a few days. This is the chip that the diagnostics (3 blinks) says is bad. Perhaps it is defective because I have tried just about everything to validate the repair.


Interestingly, after removing the sockets, I gently cleaned the area and measured resistance across adjacent pins. Without anything installed, some of the pins have 10kOhms although I did not document them. After noting this, since I had noticed the same earlier with the sockets installed which is why I thought the sockets might be the culprits, I knew then that removing the sockets was probably not going to resolve the issue.
 
#1,631 ·
So i tried fixing my 34XBR800 Sat night (for the 6-7 blink problem). I had my 2 sockets and 2 MCZ3001DB chips.

It took awhile to de-solder and solder the chips. Then put everything back together. It took me about 3 1/2 hours total. Hit the power button and............... OMG it worked! good as new! It was a Christmas miracle! Thank you so much to everyone that posted info on the 6-7 blink problem. I have my TV back and i didn't have to buy a crappy looking LCD or Plasma. I will buy some extra MCZ3001DB chips. Now that i installed sockets all the hard work is already done. So if this happens again all i have to do is pop out the old chip and pop in the new. Total repair time will take 15 min.


So this is what i did to fix my Sony KV-34XBR800.


1.Printed CRTGAMER's instructions from this thread.


2.Took off CRT back. (I put the screws in plastic sandwich bag to keep them together)


3.Unplug the connectors from the D-Board.(except for a few, follow CRTGAMER's instructions) Don't for get about the Black connectors that join to the other board. Caution: these don't come off, just lift up enough to it's not connected to the D-Board. (Note: I did NOT flip my TV on it's face. I never moved the TV during this fix.)


4. Unscrew 8 screws from the D-Board. You'll need a small philips to get at some of the screws. (the one closet to the tube was a pain and i did not put that screw back in.)


5.Pull out the D-Board (it's still has a few connections so it won't come totally out.) I pulled it towards me and flipped it so the underneath was exposed.


6.Now here's where your time is taken. Desolder the old chips.


7.Pull them out.


8.Install new sockets. Solder them. Note: 2 pins on each chip can not be soldered. Look to CRTGAMER's pictures to show you which ones. Don't waste your time like i did. They are the same pins for both chips.


9.Install the new MCZ3001DB chips. Be very careful and make sure the pins will fit in the new socket. Advise: I prefit the MCZ3001DB chips with the new socket before i installed the sockets to the D-Board. This makes installation of the new chips much easier.


10.Put everything back together.


11.Hit the power button and hold your breathe.


Cost: $27.18


It worked for me. This is the best picture i've ever seen from any TV.
 
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