AVS Forum banner

The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

972K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
See less See more
1 19
#1,152 ·
Seeing as how there seems to be some router bit confusion....


Roundover bits. Only cuts one edge of a board as 1/4 of a complete circle




Some of the many uses for a roundover.


"Create perfectly flush decorative edges perfect for drawer fronts. Cabinet edges and small finish moldings."






Double roundover w/guide bearing. Will cut both upper & lower edges of a board at the same time.




Uses for a double roundover.


"The center guide bearing allows you to round over both sides of material in one pass. The eased edge is perfect for stair treads, table edges, shelves, toys, etc."






Bullnose bit. Like a double roundover it cuts both upper & lower edges of a board, except unlike a double roundover it is non adjustable for different board thickness or type of cut. It turns the edge of a board into 1/2 of a complete circle.





One one of the primary uses of a bullnose bit, is making stair treads.


"Bullnose Bits are the perfect choice for the edges of stair treads, window sills, shelves, and more. Or you can create an oval edge by using a bit with a bead diameter greater than the stock thickness. Bullnose bits with a guide bearing allow for pattern cutting"
 
#1,153 ·
Sorry guys. Me and the entire family have been sick for the past few days. So not much progress going on. I did discover I was using the wrong size router bit. I thought the largest bit was 3/4" so I grabbed the next size down. Turns out the biggest I had was 1/2". So mystery solved.


I like the idea and time saving of just using the Double Roundover bit on all the bull nose, but I think it may be a little thin looking at 3/4". So it looks like I'll need to secure another 3/4" lip below it.


I still may go the biscuit route over the kreg jig route for connecting "some" of the bull nose. I just don't like the idea of possibly screwing up or breaking a 18' single piece while trying to get it in place. The biscuits will give me a little more play as well. Specifically, I would probably want to use the biscuits behind the back row. Perhaps I use a combination so I can fit them right on the step.


I know Moggie hid his screws on the carpet side of the bull nose. But that even scares me that I might screw up the piece or break off the bottom portion of the oak. There's going to be quite a few hours into making all of these bull noses and I just hate to screw it up because of my inexperience. Remember, I'm more at home with a mouse than power tools.



My carpet guy was nice enough to lend me his Dewalt Biscuit joiner along with some other tools (planer and a oscilating spindle sander). I think the oscilating spindle sander will be good for making the 3/4" edge of the bull nose smoother and keeping a square edge. Then I'll attach the 3/4" bottom lip.
 
#1,155 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrior_Poet /forum/post/21452383


What's your distance from the front row to the screen?

It's closer than I would have liked, but in the upright position it's about 10'6".


I should gain a foot in the reclined position. Which I've heard you want to recline when watching DBox movies to really feel like you're flying.
 
#1,156 ·
Any recommendations on how I should attach the Oak treads to the OSB?


I was thinking liquid nails or Loctite polyeurathane adhesive if I don't want to see any screws. But if I go this route for the entire stage, I won't be able to put roofing felt in between the layers to prevent squeaking.


Do I use a "fine" thread for connecting the oak sections together with the Kreg Jig?
 
#1,157 ·
I worked in the theater last night until about 4am. I finished many of the risers and stair sides with 1/4" oak veneer using 18 ga finish nails and liquid nails. All the osb steps were screwed and liquid nailed before hand. The oak puzzle pieces for the front stage are pretty much done. The random orbital sander did a nice job. NOTE: The oak riser that's peeling away has been pre-cut. Just need to install it.








I think I have a game plan for carpeting the Dbox motion platform and surround fixed platform:

 
#1,159 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21455644


Do I use a "fine" thread for connecting the oak sections together with the Kreg Jig?

I would (and did). The course thread is for particle board and softwoods to get a better grip. The fine thread minimizes the chance of splitting.
 
#1,160 ·
Not sure if it has been mentioned in the other 1172 posts of this thread, but IMO I think you're doing a pretty good job



Everything looks top notch!
 
#1,162 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie /forum/post/21455814


I would (and did). The course thread is for particle board and softwoods to get a better grip. The fine thread minimizes the chance of splitting.

Moggie,


That's what I thought. Did you use 1 1/4" screws to connect them?
 
#1,163 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21456076


Not sure if it has been mentioned in the other 1172 posts of this thread, but IMO I think you're doing a pretty good job



Everything looks top notch!

Thanks Larry. I've learned quite a bit from others here...especially in the wood working department now.
 
#1,164 ·
Here's the weekend report with lots of pics.


I've been trying to tackle the lip under the bullnoses and steps.


I scrapped the concept of ripping 1x2 routed oak pieces. The table saw just couldn't grind through it and it was a lot of work. So after scrapping a few 8' pieces. I picked up some unfinished oak base shoe 1/2" x 3/4". This gave me a standard step height of 3/4" step and 1/2" lip...so a total of 1 1/4". I would've liked it at 1 1/2" but like I mentioned...scrapped that idea.


So I thought I'd practice on a stair. Just in case I messed up.




Started by routing the top with a 1/2" roundover bit. Does anyone know if the $30 carbide bits are better than the $3 bits? I went with the $3 bit and it seemed to work through it alright.





I ran the router straight past the edges to give it a sharp look rather than rounded.




Snapshot of the trusty Porter Cable Brad Nailer:





I flipped the stair over and glued and brad nailed the base shoe after figuring out the miters.





Finished shot:




I left the corners long and just used a jig saw to cut them off:




Nice profile after flipping it over again:




Here it is dropped in place to see how it fits:




Then I used the random orbital sander with a 220 grit to blend the two edges:





After doing both stairs, I decided to move on to one of the big boys. The front step of the stage. I set it up and marked lines where I would be using the Kreg Jig.




Then started drilling:







Glued and screwed together:



Does anyone know if these 1" kreg screws will make this piece solid enough to actually pick up and flip over onto the stage? I'm a little nervous. So my theory is to run a board across the three pieces and screw into the bottom side helping to unify the entire piece. Otherwise, I may need to call a few friends over for some help.


I also started attaching the base shoe on the under side.


Clamps were helpful in getting the base shoe nicely aligned before brad nailing generously.




I cut the under sides at a 30 degree angle to help hide the joints.




Voila. Now I think it's time to do some clean up. You know it's bad when you actually have to start vacuuming the walls:
 
#1,165 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21463004


Does anyone know if the $30 carbide bits are better than the $3 bits? I went with the $3 bit and it seemed to work through it alright.


A carbide bit is far superior to a non-carbide bit when it comes to how many cuts it can make before becoming dull.


If I'm not in a hurry to get a router bit, this is where I buy mine from. Prices are good, and the quality of their house brand carbide bits is very good, and they are priced very good also.

https://www.woodline.com/



Menards also stocks some very low cost carbide bits, in their Toolshop brand, but the selection of sizes and shapes is very limited. And they also stock a limited selection of Bosch and Vermont American carbide bits as well.


Also, you should be aware that a 1/2" roundover bit is about as large as you should go with a handheld router. So if you are thinking of maybe something like a 3/4" roundover for anything, you best seriously consider getting a router table for using something like that.
 
#1,166 ·
Truly impressive Mario - that stair looks great!!
 
#1,167 ·
Keep up the good work. Your room is going to be amazing.
 
#1,168 ·
Wow, looks great, Mario! Your creativity and productivity are both impressive...


Bryan
 
#1,169 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla /forum/post/0



A carbide bit is far superior to a non-carbide bit when it comes to how many cuts it can make before becoming dull.


If I'm not in a hurry to get a router bit, this is where I buy mine from. Prices are good, and the quality of their house brand carbide bits is very good, and they are priced very good also.

https://www.woodline.com/


Menards also stocks some very low cost carbide bits, in their Toolshop brand, but the selection of sizes and shapes is very limited. And they also stock a limited selection of Bosch and Vermont American carbide bits as well.


Also, you should be aware that a 1/2" roundover bit is about as large as you should go with a handheld router. So if you are thinking of maybe something like a 3/4" roundover for anything, you best seriously consider getting a router table for using something like that.

Thanks for the info. I've been using the Toolshop brand with good luck.
 
#1,172 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by waterm3732 /forum/post/21468328


Very nice indeed Mario. Sorry I haven't read the whole thread, but are you really going to put in a star ceiling? That big? That's one of my dreams..one day! Paul

Hi Paul. Thanks. I'm planning on doing a painted star ceiling down the road from Night Sky Murals. I just don't have the patience or time to do the fiber optic star ceiling and I think the Night Sky Murals look fantastic because you can do so many more stars than you could do with fiber optic. In a perfect world I would have done both.
 
#1,173 ·
Got a late start tonight but did accomplish some things.


I was impressed on how well the kreg screws and glue held the three large pieces of oak for the front step together. I didn't get too bold, but I was able to lift, flip and position it without creating any cross braces for it. Once in position, I routed out the top and sanded.








I then finished making and sizing all my oak pieces for the top of the stage.


Ready for assembly with the Kreg jig again.




Glued and screwed upside down on the stage.



I'm hoping I'll have some time tomorrow night to sand the front and put on the bottom lip.


I'm holding off on doing the bull nose areas for now since I'll be constantly walking by them to construct the front stage. I'll wait until the front is closer to completion.
 
#1,174 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21468538


Hi Paul. Thanks. I'm planning on doing a painted star ceiling down the road from Night Sky Murals.

A super low cost projector of some type projecting the Northern Lights on that night sky, would really be wild.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21468555


Got a late start tonight but did accomplish some things.


I was impressed on how well the kreg screws and glue held the three large pieces of oak for the front step together. I didn't get too bold, but I was able to lift, flip and position it without creating any cross braces for it.


We were told in HS wood shop many moons ago, and in every woodworking magazine I've ever read since then. Both always have said if you use the correct type of glue for the application, that a good properly done glue joint in wood, is stronger than the wood itself. And in many tests done by woodworking magazine, the wood itself fails before the glue joint does. Because the tests are done to stress the joint, and because the glue soaks into the wood to a certain degree, the wood usually rips apart somewhere next to the glue joint.
 
#1,176 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla /forum/post/21468694


A super low cost projector of some type projecting the Northern Lights on that night sky, would really be wild.


We were told in HS wood shop many moons ago, and in every woodworking magazine I've ever read since then. Both always have said if you use the correct type of glue for the application, that a good properly done glue joint in wood, is stronger than the wood itself. And in many tests done by woodworking magazine, the wood itself fails before the glue joint does. Because the tests are done to stress the joint, and because the glue soaks into the wood to a certain degree, the wood usually rips apart somewhere next to the glue joint.

Johnla,

I had thought about that a while back. But given where the projector would need to be mounted (in the tray), you'd probably end up needing multiple to cover the area. Lots of other technical issues but a cool idea.


Not sure if mine wood joint was properly done, but that's good to know. Kind of wish I would have taken woodshop back in high school now too.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top