AVS Forum banner

Official LG XXLD450 Thread

454K views 2K replies 277 participants last post by  norfreka 
#1 ·
Starting an official thread, am I allowed to do that!



Just ordered an LG 42LD450 yesterday, and should arrive next week. This is a 2010 model LCD from LG so I am hoping it is good. Could not find a whole lot of info on it, so we will see.


Please post user reviews, expert reviews, your own reviews, pictures, thoughts, experiences, opinions, pros, cons, etc!

UPDATE: For information about LG XXLD450 displays, please see thepoohcontinuum's FAQ here .
 
See less See more
1
#1,502 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ch00ch /forum/post/21458067


Forgive my noobishness but how would I go about updating my firmware for my LG LD450? When I go to LG's site, it tells me to download the PDF that has absolutely no information at all.



I'm experiencing some ridiculous screen tearing and am trying to figure out a way to fix it and I might as well start fresh with the latest firmware.

Get it here

http://www.lg.com/us/support/product...roduct-profile
 
#1,505 ·
Lucky Find!! LG 37LD450 CUSW at BestBuy. I was wandering the TV section at my local BB store and I had seen an open box return model. I quickly turned it around so I could read the model and luckily it was the "W" model. There was no remote but the salesman found me one with the backlight on it and gave it to me as well. They also had a 37LK450 with the "Y" code but they wouldn't sell that one to me because the model is still current. I have it connected currently to my PC with an ATI 6990 via HDMI and it reports 4:4:4 Chroma with standard RGB and Studio RGB. I don't know what the difference is, both look the same to me. Since I'm a gamer I really wanted the S-IPS panel model and was lucky enough that persistance had paid off. I had been checking BB for several weeks for one. Just wanted to report that if you keep looking and especially now after xmas that many returns could be one of the heralded "W" or "Y" models if your persistant.
 
#1,506 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTana /forum/post/21463872


Lucky Find!! LG 37LD450 CUSW at BestBuy. I was wandering the TV section at my local BB store and I had seen an open box return model. I quickly turned it around so I could read the model and luckily it was the "W" model. There was no remote but the salesman found me one with the backlight on it and gave it to me as well. They also had a 37LK450 with the "Y" code but they wouldn't sell that one to me because the model is still current. I have it connected currently to my PC with an ATI 6990 via HDMI and it reports 4:4:4 Chroma with standard RGB and Studio RGB. I don't know what the difference is, both look the same to me. Since I'm a gamer I really wanted the S-IPS panel model and was lucky enough that persistance had paid off. I had been checking BB for several weeks for one. Just wanted to report that if you keep looking and especially now after xmas that many returns could be one of the heralded "W" or "Y" models if your persistant.

Nice find! Congratulations.
 
#1,508 ·
All -- It's been a while since i've been on this thread but i'm hoping the collective could help me through an issue.


I still have a 32LD450 "w" with an S-IPS panel. With the help of the thread, i got it working beautifully on a PC with a Geoforce 6200 card (old rig)


I got a new 2011 mac mini ( 2.3 i5 with intel GPU), plugged HDMI2 directly into the mini and display works! The mac mini recognizes the 1080p, refresh rate is at 60mhz and with a little underscanning, got the screen size to fit perfectly. However, the text is extremely blurry and not crisp at all. Images are exceptionally clear and crisp, but text is my issue.


What do i need to do to get text to display crisp? Considering text is beautiful on the HDMI1 input for the PC, i hope i can replicate the image qaulity for HDMI2. I also changed the input label for HDMI2 to PC.


I don't think this version of the LG allows me to adjust picture settings per input, but i could be wrong.


Looking forward to any helpful feedback. Thanks,


H
 
#1,509 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hboogz /forum/post/21476459


All -- It's been a while since i've been on this thread but i'm hoping the collective could help me through an issue.


I still have a 32LD450 "w" with an S-IPS panel. With the help of the thread, i got it working beautifully on a PC with a Geoforce 6200 card (old rig)


I got a new 2011 mac mini ( 2.3 i5 with intel GPU), plugged HDMI2 directly into the mini and display works! The mac mini recognizes the 1080p, refresh rate is at 60mhz and with a little underscanning, got the screen size to fit perfectly. However, the text is extremely blurry and not crisp at all. Images are exceptionally clear and crisp, but text is my issue.


What do i need to do to get text to display crisp? Considering text is beautiful on the HDMI1 input for the PC, i hope i can replicate the image qaulity for HDMI2. I also changed the input label for HDMI2 to PC.


I don't think this version of the LG allows me to adjust picture settings per input, but i could be wrong.


Looking forward to any helpful feedback. Thanks,


H

What happens if you connect your mac through HDMI1?


If text is still fuzzy, try adjusting H/V Sharpness (mine is at 30/53). Also, make sure Edge Enhancer is off. Note: you may need to get rid of the PC label, as I believe it permanently forces Edge Enhancer to High.


If all that doesn't work, run the 4:4:4 test. Directions can be found in Question T1 in the 444 thread, which can be found here . Let us know what the results are.
 
#1,510 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum /forum/post/21479422


What happens if you connect your mac through HDMI1?


If text is still fuzzy, try adjusting H/V Sharpness (mine is at 30/53). Also, make sure Edge Enhancer is off. Note: you may need to get rid of the PC label, as I believe it permanently forces Edge Enhancer to High.


If all that doesn't work, run the 4:4:4 test. Directions can be found in Question T1 in the 444 thread, which can be found here . Let us know what the results are.

Thanks for the reply pooh.


I am using HDMI > HDMI as my connection into the Mac Mini.


This is the later model of the Mac Mini, so it doesn't have a miniDisplay Port. It does have thunderbolt...so I'll have to look up to see if there is a Thunderbolt to DVI then HDMI to DVI.


I spent a lot of time with the settings last night and got much better results. It's not quite as crisp yet, but i'll try your recommendations.


I also flashed the firmware of the tv successfully, but that didn't change much. At least from what my untrained eye can tell.


I'll give your suggestions a shot and report back.
 
#1,511 ·
This thread has helped me countless times after completely reinstalling my PC. Also just checked it and theres a nice firmware update



My original firmware was v3.05.04 and i updated it to v3.05.20. All of my settings stayed, it didn't restore them to stock.

So far everything is smooth. Im about a year into having my 37LD450 as my primary computer screen and its working great still. I used some settings that were mentioned earlier in the thread.


Great TV and 4:4:4 is so niceeeeeeeeee
 
#1,512 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum /forum/post/21479422


What happens if you connect your mac through HDMI1?


If text is still fuzzy, try adjusting H/V Sharpness (mine is at 30/53). Also, make sure Edge Enhancer is off. Note: you may need to get rid of the PC label, as I believe it permanently forces Edge Enhancer to High.


If all that doesn't work, run the 4:4:4 test. Directions can be found in Question T1 in the 444 thread, which can be found here . Let us know what the results are.

pooh - I was able to get 4:4:4 by getting an HDMI > DVI then a miniDP/TB to DVI adapter. The text is much much better and clearer. While i think this is workable, after reviewing the images at this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21423110


I have to apparently calibrate for sharpness. The thread or the link doesn't exactly tell me how. I could have missed something, but would you know what needs to be done in order to calibrate for sharpness ?


My text is clear and workable, but knowing that it's not where it could be is bothersome, at the minimum.


Looking forward to your feedback.


Thanks,


H
 
#1,513 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hboogz /forum/post/21509529


I have to apparently calibrate for sharpness. The thread or the link doesn't exactly tell me how. I could have missed something, but would you know what needs to be done in order to calibrate for sharpness ?

The lagom sharpness test is pretty straightforward -- have the sharpness calibration image displayed on your TV, sit a few feet away, and adjust H Sharpness and V Sharpness until the circle and squares "merge" together (or as close as you can).


On my LD450s, my H and V settings are in the 30s and 50s range, respectively.
 
#1,514 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum /forum/post/21509686


The lagom sharpness test is pretty straightforward -- have the sharpness calibration image displayed on your TV, sit a few feet away, and adjust H Sharpness and V Sharpness until the circle and squares "merge" together (or as close as you can).


On my LD450s, my H and V settings are in the 30s and 50s range, respectively.

There must be something off with my mac settings, because when i set my H and V settings in those ranges, I see the exact image you're not suppose to see. lol
 
#1,515 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hboogz /forum/post/21509705


There must be something off with my mac settings, because when i set my H and V settings in those ranges, I see the exact image you're not suppose to see. lol

I should also mention that its impossible to get the ideal result. Just get it as close as possible. On mine, it more looks like the second picture from the bottom. So while it [partially] fails the lagom test, in real life usage, text looks nice and pixel sharp.
 
#1,516 ·
Thanks pooh. I've spent the past few hours tearing down my settings, using Mac's calibrate settings and think i'm close to what i expect. I'm definitely pulling 4:4:4 on the Belle Nuit test. Images are great (would love a site you use for comparative image purposes) Vimeo is amazing and text is certainly better after i've got the langom test as close as possible.


The setting i'm having issue with now is the white saturation. I don't see the last white box 254, but i can see all the rest, albeit faintly. Once i tweak my settings to see the last box, it distorts everything else, especially text.
 
#1,519 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ggeinec /forum/post/21645908


How is the 37LK450 with VA panel for use as a TV only with no intent to use it as a monitor?


Some Best Buys have this TV on clearance for $350. In my area they are all CUSD models, no CUSY to be found. Does the CUSD make for a good TV for watching cable, DVDs, etc.?


Thanks!

Ooops, wrong thread. Moved to the XXLK450 thread.
 
#1,520 ·
Hope people with TV knowledge still reads this thread:


I've been trying to get 24p(Real Cinema, as LG calls it) without avail. I read the posts concerning this several pages back. To be more specific, I have set a custom refresh rate at 24hz in the Nvidia settings, and the TV reports that Real Cinema is on. For my video player, I use MPC-HC with Madvr refresh rate set at 24p. However, videos still play with judder and I see no significant difference.


Testing this further, I played a BD movie on my PS3 and the Real Cinema option is grayed out at OFF.


If anyone has any insight to this I'd definitely appreciate it!
 
#1,521 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by retsnom /forum/post/21806479


Hope people with TV knowledge still reads this thread:


I've been trying to get 24p(Real Cinema, as LG calls it) without avail. I read the posts concerning this several pages back. To be more specific, I have set a custom refresh rate at 24hz in the Nvidia settings, and the TV reports that Real Cinema is on. For my video player, I use MPC-HC with Madvr refresh rate set at 24p. However, videos still play with judder and I see no significant difference.


Testing this further, I played a BD movie on my PS3 and the Real Cinema option is grayed out at OFF.


If anyone has any insight to this I'd definitely appreciate it!

On 120Hz sets, Real Cinema takes 24p material and displays each frame 5 times to maintain the natural cadence of the film. On a 60Hz set, each frame is displayed twice to keep the 48Hz refresh rate. TruMotion, which you may be confusing Real Cinema with, interpolates the motion between the frames, hence the SOE (soap opera effect). For movies, leave Real Cinema on and TruMotion off. The Real Cinema setting only works when 24p material is presented, so even if the setting is not grayed out (which I think is the case with my LD520 while viewing OTA), it has no effect. However, if you're using your computer as the source, it sounds like there may be some sort of incompatibility between your graphics card and the LG causing them to be slightly out of sync with each other. My BD player outputs at the correct rate without any adjustments and my LG displays 24p when presented.
 
#1,522 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot /forum/post/21807547


On 120Hz sets, Real Cinema takes 24p material and displays each frame 5 times to maintain the natural cadence of the film. On a 60Hz set, each frame is displayed twice to keep the 48Hz refresh rate. TruMotion, which you may be confusing Real Cinema with, interpolates the motion between the frames, hence the SOE (soap opera effect). For movies, leave Real Cinema on and TruMotion off. The Real Cinema setting only works when 24p material is presented, so even if the setting is not grayed out (which I think is the case with my LD520 while viewing OTA), it has no effect. However, if you're using your computer as the source, it sounds like there may be some sort of incompatibility between your graphics card and the LG causing them to be slightly out of sync with each other. My BD player outputs at the correct rate without any adjustments and my LG displays 24p when presented.

All I know is that once I play a video using MPC-HC and MadVR kicks in, it sets the desktop refresh rate at 24p and the TV info says that the resolution and refresh rate is indeed at 1080/24p, which turns Real Cinema on. I'm not sure about the TruMotion stuff since I can't seem to find it in the menu.
 
#1,540 ·
Have you demoed J. River? It might solve your problem.

Quote: Originally Posted by Otto Pylot

On 120Hz sets, Real Cinema takes 24p material and displays each frame 5 times to maintain the natural cadence of the film. On a 60Hz set, each frame is displayed twice to keep the 48Hz refresh rate. TruMotion, which you may be confusing Real Cinema with, interpolates the motion between the frames, hence the SOE (soap opera effect). For movies, leave Real Cinema on and TruMotion off. The Real Cinema setting only works when 24p material is presented, so even if the setting is not grayed out (which I think is the case with my LD520 while viewing OTA), it has no effect. However, if you're using your computer as the source, it sounds like there may be some sort of incompatibility between your graphics card and the LG causing them to be slightly out of sync with each other. My BD player outputs at the correct rate without any adjustments and my LG displays 24p when presented.


All I know is that once I play a video using MPC-HC and MadVR kicks in, it sets the desktop refresh rate at 24p and the TV info says that the resolution and refresh rate is indeed at 1080/24p, which turns Real Cinema on. I'm not sure about the TruMotion stuff since I can't seem to find it in the menu.
 
#1,524 ·
Hi!


I'll buy a 42 LG LCD, current available models in Argentina are:


42LD460 (2010-11)

42LD650 (2010-11)

42LD655 (2011?)

42LK450 (2011-12)


LK450 being the most widely available nowadays.


- Main Use: Blu-Ray 24fps from Pioneer BR

- Secondary Use: HDTV

- Third Use: STD (PAL-N 50hz)

- I won't use it for gaming/120hz/sports...


Questions:

- Any reason not to buy LK450 and look for any of the others?

- LK450 IPS code is W or Y?

- Any tip on the best model with lowest clouding/best contrast-black levels/color reproduction (after calibration)



Thank you!

Luis

Argentina
 
#1,525 ·
Long time no post... I have a feeling I knew this at some point, but have just now started tweaking my display settings again to nail down a perfect setting for my Wii (Xenoblade Chronicles convinced me to dust it off).


What's the difference between Expert1 and Expert2?


I gave them identical settings as a starting point for customizing Expert2, and noticed they look quite different...
 
#1,526 ·
Hey everyone, I know im Resurrection this dead thread but this is an amazing find for Nvidia users with HDMI-HDMI connection. I still use my 37LD450 daily as my PC monitor but after switching to Windows 8 I had some issues with getting the EDID fix to stick. I found this quote on the chroma thread and Im surprised no one reposted it.


Essentially it lets you have HDMI -> HDMI with 4:4:4 & audio both at the same time. The best part is that it takes 10 seconds to do and does not require any EDID fixes etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400  /t/1381724/official-4-4-4-chroma-subsampling-thread/150#post_22337224


Hello everyone.

Just joined to say that for 5 months now i have gotten 4:4:4 Full RGB to work with an HDMI-to-HDMI cable on an LG 32LD450 (very similar to the 32LK450, but its the 2010 model).

This trick only works with an Nvidia card, but that's the brand that has the problem everyone is trying to figure out anyways (my laptop's ATI/AMD chip allows me to select Full 4:4:4 RGB without this trick and it works).

You go to your resolutions page in the Nvidia Control Panel and you select the "Customize" button at the bottom. Create a new resolution (preferably your native resolution) and expand the timing field at the bottom of the window so you can see the more detailed active pixel count and refresh rate timings.

Choose MANUAL as the timing standard and ONLY manually change the refresh rate at the bottom so it reads 60.001hz (or 120.001, 50.001, etc.) instead of 60.000hz (60hz).

What this does is it throws of the EDID chip in your TV and bypasses the nature in which your EDID treats a signal from an HDMI cable. After doing this, you will notice your whites just got whiter and blacks are blacker-er (lol).

ALL WHILE PRESERVING AUDIO!

So for all of you with HDMI receivers used in conjunction with your PC, you can now use your HDMI cable with audio without having to do the registry tweak or use a DVI-to-HDMI cable.

This ONLY works for HDMI-to-HDMI. If you do this on a DVI connection (DVI-to-DVI or DVI-HDMI), you will get artifacts and your PQ will become corrupted until you change back. Its just the difference of how HDMI handles timings.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top