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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

972K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#1,228 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by awilcox /forum/post/0


Mcascio,


Let me be the next person to compliment you on the awesome theather design you have. I am getting closer to actually starting my build
and I hope you don't mind me borrowing from your thread. Keep the details coming!

Thanks awilcox. Feel free to borrow away. I'll continue to post as much detail as I can to hopefully save the next member some time.
 
#1,229 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/0



Building a 7' door that fits flush into an opening would be a challenge. How many 7' boards have you seen that are straight and flat? Smaller doors are much easier. If it were me, I would do each side as two doors (one on top and one on bottom).


When I have a project that uses inset doors, I usually build the doors a little oversize and then trim them to fit the opening. How you go about trimming the door to fit depends to an extent on what tools you have. One method is to make a template of the door out of strips of 1/8" plywood, hot-melt glued together. Lay the template on your oversized door and trace around it with a pencil, marking where you need to trim. Clamp a straight edge on the pencil line and use a flush-trim bit in your router to make the cut. You can get pretty good results this way if you take your time.

Great info. I thought the 7' door would be more challenging. Thanks to this thread I did buy a flush trim bit. I've found myself using it quite a bit for various things. Awesome tool!
 
#1,230 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra4v /forum/post/0


Why did you use 12/4 wire for front L&R and high, but then used 12/2 for the rest of the speakers? Also, how are you going to run all of the subs and shakers? Do you use a separate amp for all the subs then connect that to your receiver? thanks

It was easier to pull a 12/4 to the same location. 2 pair can go to the front and the other 2 pair can go to the front high. Make sense?
 
#1,232 ·
Man,

thanks for all the posts...this thread is inspiring me to continue with my build.

I'm finding it really hard to do all this construction alone!


Congrats on some beautiful work and your attention to detail in mind boggling to me!


Thanks for the inspiration...
 
#1,233 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra4v /forum/post/21539210


Oh, so you are saying that the /2 and /4 are just the number of wires coming through the hole. I was just confused. Thanks

That's correct. And the first number represents the gauge or thickness of the wire. You may find this link helpful for learning more about speaker wire and wiring:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-tMms2Qb...kers_wire.html
 
#1,234 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft /forum/post/21540432


Man,

thanks for all the posts...this thread is inspiring me to continue with my build.

I'm finding it really hard to do all this construction alone!


Congrats on some beautiful work and your attention to detail in mind boggling to me!


Thanks for the inspiration...

Thanks Fatshaft. I find it's easier mentally to focus on completing phases of the theater rather than thinking about completing the entire theater. You'll feel better when you finally reach that next phase and then adjust your goals.


I was extremely hesitant to tackle the columns and oak myself. Keep in mind, my biggest project before this was building a horse shoe pit with the help of friends and family. But since no one else was available or willing to take it on, I'm glad I did. I've learned so much doing it myself plus saved a lot of money. In the end, I think I only had ruined a smaller piece of oak that I had to repurchase.


Good luck and keep moving forward on your build.


TIP ALERT:

Here's a little tip my carpenter friend just let me know about. Try to cut your biggest pieces first. That way if you screw it up, you have a good chance of reusing that material for a smaller piece.
 
#1,237 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21545651


Hi cobra4v,


Each speaker requires 2 wires. One for positive and one for negative. I'm not sure what you mean by "bi-wire them."

I thought the same thing as cobra. Each speaker requires 2 conductors, not wires. When I see 12/4 it means one wire with four 12 gauge conductors, meaning 2 positive conductors for the low and high frequency input and 2 negative conductors for the low and high frequency input. I am not sure what speakers you plan to use for your system, but I can imagine most being bi-wire capable. Here's a pic and a little background on biwiring and its benefits: http://www.pstracks.com/pauls-posts/biwiring/3084/
 
#1,238 ·
Hi TMcG,


You're right, conductor is the better word choice than wire. In my case, I had no intention of bi-wiring. My M&K's don't appear to have that option. I'm planning on running a 9.2 to 11.2 system. So I'll be using Front High and Front Wide speakers. I ran extra cable to allow me to position the Front Wide's in up to 2 locations. One location along side the screen and the other in the side column. On my wiring plan, I use the word "potential" which pretty much means it will most likely "not" get used. But I wanted to have options after the room is complete.
 
#1,239 ·
I thought I remember Mcascio saying at one point that the 4 conductor is for front heights.


Edit: oops didn't see your post Mcascio.
 
#1,240 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21538653


Great info. I thought the 7' door would be more challenging. Thanks to this thread I did buy a fish trim bit. I've found myself using it quite a bit for various things. Awesome tool!

A fish trim bit? Here I thought you were building a home theater when you were actually building a hi-end kitchen. You had me completely fooled!



PS - I just love the results of auto-correction, don't you?
 
#1,241 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty /forum/post/21548320


A fish trim bit? Here I thought you were building a home theater when you were actually building a hi-end kitchen. You had me completely fooled!



PS - I just love the results of auto-correction, don't you?

And yet another victim of auto-correction. A blessing and a curse!
 
#1,242 ·
I took a photo of the Fidelio, Protostar and SyFabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet.


It's hard to tell the difference between the Triple Velvet and the Fidelio (Small sample).


The Protostar is noticably not as dark in my testing. Perhaps it reacts differently in a darker room or absorbs light differently than the velvet? But to my untrained eye, it doesn't look as dark as the two velvets.


In varying applications though (even my own), Protostar may be the better choice.




I left the carpet and white baseboard in the picture so you could see that it was taken in natural window light. If you have an LCD monitor and look down from a standing position rather than straight at your monitor, you may see a bigger difference in the darknesses. At least on mine I do.
 
#1,243 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/0


I took a photo of the Fidelio, Protostar and SyFabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet.


It's hard to tell the difference between the Triple Velvet and the Fidelio (Small sample).


The Protostar is noticably not as dark in my testing. Perhaps it reacts differently in a darker room or absorbs light differently than the velvet? But to my untrained eye, it doesn't look as dark as the two velvets.


In varying applications though (even my own), Protostar may be the better choice.


I left the carpet and white baseboard in the picture so you could see that it was taken in natural window light. If you have an LCD monitor and look down from a standing position rather than straight at your monitor, you may see a bigger difference in the darknesses. At least on mine I do.

Wow, that triple velvet is really black. Thats amazing. Fidelio is close to that one as well, your right...lol
 
#1,244 ·
I installed some 1/4" oak over the edges of the double layer OSB behind the front row.



Then I routed all edges on the remaining bull noses and dry fitted everything to make sure I was in good shape. I used a 1/2" round over bit on the fronts and a 1/8" round over bit on the back side edge that faces the carpeting. I'm using biscuit joints to connect them. But next phase will be installing the base shoe underneath.





I wanted sharp edges at the corners. So I routed each piece individually. To prevent from rounding the corner, which is easy to do, I'd butt a scrap piece of wood right next to the piece I was routing so I could route right through the end.
 
#1,245 ·
Yesterday I finished all the bull nose pieces. They just need a good sanding that I'll do closer to the end of the project. I may need to order some LED lighting for the steps. I'm not sure how easy it will be to install it behind the upside down base shoe on the bull nose/steps once the bull nose is completely installed.



















 
#1,247 ·
Thanks Rob.


The dust is actually pretty bad. I determine when it's time for a good cleaning by how much dust is sitting on the bar outside the room. I'm going to start completely closing the door to see if that helps.


When cutting MDF, I usually vacuum that area right away to keep the dust from moving around.


Just picked up a new filter for the vac so that should help too.
 
#1,248 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21570055


Thanks Rob.


The dust is actually pretty bad. I determine when it's time for a good cleaning by how much dust is sitting on the bar outside the room. I'm going to start completely closing the door to see if that helps.


When cutting MDF, I usually vacuum that area right away to keep the dust from moving around.


Just picked up a new filter for the vac so that should help too.

Well, keep up the good work. The process is a HUGE part of the enjoyment.
Dust was a disaster for me. I was at least doing the cutting in the garage, so I had a layer of dust on EVERYTHING, but it's slowly coming off...


Good luck with your project, it's going to be beautiful!
 
#1,249 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21570055


Just picked up a new filter for the vac so that should help too.

If the manufacturer of your shop vac makes bags for the vac, I hightly recommend them. The bag goes into the dust cannister and acts as a pre-filter to keep almost all of the dust away from the filter. The filter stays cleaner longer, which means the vac keeps sucking hard. And we all know how important that is.


By the way, all that oak is looking beautiful. The room is going to be stunning.
 
#1,251 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21570055


Thanks Rob.


The dust is actually pretty bad. I determine when it's time for a good cleaning by how much dust is sitting on the bar outside the room. I'm going to start completely closing the door to see if that helps.


When cutting MDF, I usually vacuum that area right away to keep the dust from moving around.


Just picked up a new filter for the vac so that should help too.

Pick up a shop vac bag so the dust doesn't get to the filter...saves lives
 
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