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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

972K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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1 19
#1,352 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21663270


Anyone know of a source for black magnet catches? The big box stores seem to only carry brown.


Also looking for an inexpensive discrete black finger pull. I'd rather not put knobs on the cabinet doors.

Mario - you don't need a black magnetic catch AND a finger pull. Just use a push-button magnetic latch. If the door is closed all you have to do is push on the door frame, release and the door will pop right open. To close all you have to do is shut it against the latch until it clicks. Simple, elegant, easy and completely hidden.


Before you get too far on the hinges . . . .why not use a European style hidden hinge. They have inexpensive plastic jigs that make precision install easy and you won't even have the 1950s style door hinge exposed. Not only do they swing fully wide open, but also have a quick release where you can completely remove the door front in seconds and reinstall in seconds as fell.


You will just need to buy a forstner bit to install the European hinges.


And here is just one of many, many different examples of push-lock magnetic latches: http://www.sugatsune.com/products/Pr...ODUCTID=PKL-07


and the preferred latch: http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...p?p_ref=259857


As an fyi - you mount the magnetic latch to the cabinet and only the metal plate to your door.
 
#1,353 ·
A couple more links for you of black magnetic latches:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CIoBEPMCMAA

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-13615-Ma.../dp/B000FKF1RC

http://woodworkers-hardware.amazonwe...source=froogle


This European hinge allows the door to swing a full 170 degrees: http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...d_sim_sbs_hi_2


And a standard European hinge. No need to paint because it will be completely hidden: http://www.amazon.com/Laury-Laurey-O.../dp/B0011WEIT0


Here is the cheap drilling jig: http://www.amazon.com/DrillRite-35mm...9582540&sr=1-1


And a more expensive one that will work with your router: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Concea...9582540&sr=1-6


And a bit pricier complete kit: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Multi-...9582540&sr=1-8


Good luck!
 
#1,354 ·
Thanks guys for all the great links and feedback. Gotta love this forum.


TMcG,


I would have gone with the European hinges, but I didn't want to deal with the mortising. It doesn't look that difficult with the jigs you linked to though.

I already have in hand all the hinges so I think I'm going to just continue rolling down the planned path. That way I don't loose time to either ordering or running around just to find all the items I'll need. I actually don't mind the hinges showing. Given they are pretty low profile and black. They'll pretty much blend in once everything is painted.


I love the push magnet idea to prevent having a finger pull like Tedd posted. Although thanks Tedd. That's what I had in mind. I was going to put them at the top of the cabinet where the shadows will prevent anyone from even knowing they exist.

The only problem with the push magnet catch is I don't have enough space on my 1x2 dividers to mount then. So I'd have to get a bit creative and length the area where it mounts to. I could also just mount it on the top and add a 1.5" board to meet up with the door. So it's doable. Any chance these will rattle though compared to my current method?
 
#1,356 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21664249


Thanks guys for all the great links and feedback. Gotta love this forum.


TMcG,


I would have gone with the European hinges, but I didn't want to deal with the mortising. It doesn't look that difficult with the jigs you linked to though.

I already have in hand all the hinges so I think I'm going to just continue rolling down the planned path. That way I don't loose time to either ordering or running around just to find all the items I'll need. I actually don't mind the hinges showing. Given they are pretty low profile and black. They'll pretty much blend in once everything is painted.


I love the push magnet idea to prevent having a finger pull like Tedd posted. Although thanks Tedd. That's what I had in mind. I was going to put them at the top of the cabinet where the shadows will prevent anyone from even knowing they exist.

The only problem with the push magnet catch is I don't have enough space on my 1x2 dividers to mount then. So I'd have to get a bit creative and length the area where it mounts to. I could also just mount it on the top and add a 1.5" board to meet up with the door. So it's doable. Any chance these will rattle though compared to my current method?

Hey Mario. I have never experienced any rattles with these magnetic latches. I would have two suggestions for you - 1. Go with the double magnetic latch as in Ted's link - this will immediately double your holding power to about 7 pounds - which is quite a bit for rock solid closure. 2. Mount the magnetic latch on the underside of the top and not your thin side stiles. From your photographs it seems fairly easy to pack out the underside of your horizontal top shelf with some simple blocking to give you a hidden and fixed mounting point for the magnetic latch.


Keep up the great work - I always enjoy seeing the fantastic progress and great documentation on your build thread. I'll definitely be hitting YOU up for some tips finish carpentry tips when I get to that stage myself.
 
#1,357 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21662516


What is a good table saw?


My coworker sent me one that was like $2k and ran off 240v. Just a full head of hair above my budget

How much you looking to spend? $100 is not going to do it, $400-$500 is probably the starting point for something on a decent entry level contractor type table saw, like this Ridgid R4512 from Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...&storeId=10051


Move up to $1000, and that should get into the start of some really good affordable saws. There is a lot of brands that make good saws, even some of the imports from places like Grizzly have some decent saws. For example Grizzly has this 110/220v 2hp "Hybrid" with cast iron table & wings for $795 plus $99 for shipping.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-H...Series-/G0715P


These "Hybrid" saws are something that quite a few manufacturers are offering now, they are a cross between a contractor and a cabinet table saw.



Also, consider something like a used Delta saw. And some of the upper end of the Sears Craftsman table saws are pretty good also.



Although these reviews are old, and some of the saws are no longer available. You still may find them helpful.

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/indus...01503&artnum=1

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/01...s-jet-and-more
 
#1,359 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21670587


I finished constructing all the center cabinet doors today.

Wow! Just wow... : )
 
#1,362 ·
Ordering a Bosch 1617 router tomorrow.


Might as well keep ordering tools while I wait for the town to approve my plans...going on 3 weeks tomorrow
 
#1,363 ·
"The Theater That Kreg Built"



You are making some nice progress and it looks awesome. Are you sure you don't have "woodworker" somewhere on your business card?
 
#1,365 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 /forum/post/21674196


I think Mario is tricking us using his renders again!!!



Nice looking wood work!

That would be funny if after all of this I revealed it was all just 3D and Photoshop.
But that reminded me to try to blend the worlds together again to see how they looked. Here's another composition at this stage of the game.

 
#1,366 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21674608


Ordering a Bosch 1617 router tomorrow.


Might as well keep ordering tools while I wait for the town to approve my plans...going on 3 weeks tomorrow

Larry. You are going to have some nice new toys to play with!
 
#1,367 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/21674791


"The Theater That Kreg Built"



You are making some nice progress and it looks awesome. Are you sure you don't have "woodworker" somewhere on your business card?

It's been a great learning experience. Although, I never thought my first type of cabinetry work would be doing an 18' foot wide entertainment center with a radius.
 
#1,368 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21675269


That would be funny if after all of this I revealed it was all just 3D and Photoshop.
But that reminded me to try to blend the worlds together again to see how they looked. Here's another composition at this stage of the game.

Now I love this picture.... at the end of this endeavor you should create a little sequence of stills by morphing from rendering through construction and back to completion. My money is that the viewer will not being able to spot the difference between start and finish
Very well done.
 
#1,369 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21675278


It's been a great learning experience. Although, I never thought my first type of cabinetry work would be doing an 18' foot wide entertainment center with a radius.

A radius scares me, does Kreg make a radius jig
 
#1,370 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla /forum/post/21666424


How much you looking to spend? $100 is not going to do it, $400-$500 is probably the starting point for something on a decent entry level contractor type table saw, like this Ridgid R4512 from Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...&storeId=10051


Move up to $1000, and that should get into the start of some really good affordable saws. There is a lot of brands that make good saws, even some of the imports from places like Grizzly have some decent saws. For example Grizzly has this 110/220v 2hp "Hybrid" with cast iron table & wings for $795 plus $99 for shipping.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-H...Series-/G0715P


Also, consider something like a used Delta saw. And some of the upper end of the Sears Craftsman table saws are pretty good also.

I pretty much agree with everything John said. The Ridgid contractor saw from Home Depot is a nice saw, especially at its price point.


I generally advise people to stay away from portable saws (like the DeWalt or the Bosch) unless they actually need to haul the saw from one job site to another. If the saw is going to stay in your basement or garage, a saw like the Ridgid 4512 is a MUCH better tool.


Used tools can be a great way to save money. For your first saw, it's safest to stick to brands that are of a reliably good quality. For instance, Delta has made consistently good stuff for decades (but avoid Delta Shopmaster). All of the contractors saws sold by Ridgid have been good tools. Craftsman and Grizzly, on the other hand, have sold a few very nice saws and a whole bunch of saws that were not so nice. Buying a used Craftsman or Grizzly saw really requires that you be able to tell the good from the rest. Easier and safer to stick with brands that are consistently good.


Just for kicks, I checked my local Craigslist the other day. There was a Delta contractor saw with a nice fence and a mobile base for under $400, although it was a couple of hours away. There was also a Ridgid contractor saw with a mobile base for $400. The Delta looked like a bargain, and the Ridgid would have been a nice saw with a little dickering.

Quote:
I don't have any experience with track saws. But they look like they might be a good alternative to a table saw.

I have both. Track saws are great for breaking down sheet goods (plywood & MDF) and can be very accurate if you're careful with your layout. Track saws are not as useful for cutting solid wood. To use a track saw on solid wood, you must start with a workpiece that's wide enough that you can rest the track on it, which means it is difficult and dangerous to cut anything narrower than about 6". It is possible to make repetitive cuts with a track saw but doing so is time consuming. In general, a table saw is a much more versatile tool. If I could only have one, I would take the table saw in a heart beat.
 
#1,371 ·
Mario,


The cabinet doors turned out great! Nice work!


I love it when you blend one of your renders with an "as built" photo. It is so cool to see how precisely your build matches the model.

Quote:
Here's the moulding I'll be using on the inside frame. Only the 3/4" edge and 1/4" lip of the moulding touches the cabinet. I'm wondering if that's enough surface to attach the moulding or do I need to build something behind as well?

The 3/4"-to-3/4" glue joint will be more than strong enough. I wouldn't worry about adding any structure just to secure the moulding.
 
#1,372 ·
Just love those blended compositions of renderings and actual construction. Very cool.
 
#1,373 ·
Looking fantastic Mario. You should feel really proud of the quality job you are doing and for tackling it. It's going to look great when it's all said and done. I'm sure you are starting to get that "almost there" feeling, and then you start thinking " I've still got this, this, that, that, then that...". At least that's where I'm at! Hang in there!
 
#1,374 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/21676637


Mario,


The cabinet doors turned out great! Nice work!


I love it when you blend one of your renders with an "as built" photo. It is so cool to see how precisely your build matches the model.




The 3/4"-to-3/4" glue joint will be more than strong enough. I wouldn't worry about adding any structure just to secure the moulding.

Thanks. I just wish everything was straight and square like it is in 3D.



I'm gonna give it a shot on one of the smaller doors first. The backing was nice on the side columns for forcing the moulding into position when it was a bit of a struggle by shooting a brad nail through it.
 
#1,375 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie /forum/post/21675343


Now I love this picture.... at the end of this endeavor you should create a little sequence of stills by morphing from rendering through construction and back to completion. My money is that the viewer will not being able to spot the difference between start and finish
Very well done.

Thanks Moggie. That would be pretty cool.
 
#1,376 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTopDown /forum/post/21678797


Looking fantastic Mario. You should feel really proud of the quality job you are doing and for tackling it. It's going to look great when it's all said and done. I'm sure you are starting to get that "almost there" feeling, and then you start thinking " I've still got this, this, that, that, then that...". At least that's where I'm at! Hang in there!

I'm glad I did decide to tackle it. I feel much more confident in doing other things around the house as well. I just repaired our ice maker this past weekend. I probably saved several hundred dollars doing it myself with about $60 in parts.


You're right about that. Everytime my friends ask me it seems like I always seem to answer two months. Well that was 8 months ago.



The fabric frames, door, painting and massive amount of trim work is left to do. I'm guessing, but I'd have to say there's probably 100+ hours of moulding/trim work to do given all the jots in/out because of the columns.
 
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